Preface

East Half

East Half

Including the Valleys of

The Rhône, Drôme and Durance

the Baths of

Vichy, Royat, Aix, Mont-Dore and Bourboule

The Whole of the

Riviera from Cette to Leghorn

Turin, Bologna, Parma, Florence and Pisa

AND

The Passes Between France and Italy

Illustrated with Maps and Plans

Fourth Edition

C. B. Black

EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 1885 Printed by R. & R. Clark, Edinburgh.

This Guide-book consists of Routes which follow the course of the main Railways. To adapt these Routes as far as possible to the requirements of every one the Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the stations from which the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to towns distant from the railway. The description of the places on these branch lines is printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than that of the towns on the main lines.

Each Route has the Map indicated on which it is to be found. By aid of these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact situation, and either form new routes for himself, or follow those given.

The Arrangement of the Routes is such that they may be taken either from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the commencement. The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does equally well for Marseilles to Paris.

The Distance of towns from the place of starting to the terminus is expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side of the margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route from each other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either side from each other.

In the Description of towns the places of interest have been taken in the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all that is necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession. Cabs on such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against omission, the traveller should underline the names of the places to be visited before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all the day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 P.M. All the Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on Thursdays. When not open to the public, admission is generally granted on payment of a franc.

In “Table of Contents” the Routes are classified and explained. For the Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the Continental Railways, see “Preliminary Information.”

Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air, walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such exercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening. Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season; indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. “I would strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go, to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in his case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstances requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended to abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, others will demand even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due regard to all these circumstances that the powers of the constitution can be enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best climate, a disease of long standing.

“It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they left their own country—the recovery of their health. This appeared to arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate.

“The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet, exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called ‘sight-seeing,’ frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was counteracted by the operation of these causes.” —Sir James Clark on the Sanative Influence of Climate.

See Map Page 27, and Map on Fly-Leaf.

Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay at some of the baths, such as Vichy (p. 359), Vals (p. 93), Mont-Dore (p. 378), Bourboule (p. 383), Aix-les-Bains (p. 283), Bourbon-l’Archambault (p. 357), or Bourbon-Lancy (p. 358). If at the eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from Savona (pp. and ), or from Genoa (pp. and ) to Turin (p. 292). From Turin a short branch line extends to Torre-Pèllice (p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian valleys.

If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long, a halt may be made for the night at Modane (p. 290); where, however, on account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather sharp and bracing.

From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the baths is by the valley of the Rhône (map, p. 27), in which there are many places of great interest, such as Arles (p. 68), Avignon (p. 58), Orange (p. 51), and Lyons (p. 29). From Lyons take the western branch by Montbrison (p. 349) for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For Aix-les-Bains take the eastern by Ambérieux (p. 281) and Culoz (p. 282). From Avignon, Carpentras (p. 54), Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98), Montélimart (p. 48), La Voulte (p. 82), Crest (p. 46) and Grenoble (p. 324), interesting and picturesque excursions are made. From Carpentras Mont Ventoux (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte, Ardechè (p. 45) is entered. From Crest diligences run to the towns and villages between it and Aspres (pp. and ). From Grenoble the roads and railways diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the western Alps and to the mountain passes between France and Italy.

None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport. They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great use.

The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs., including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9 frs. per day. Meat breakfast, 2 to 3 frs.; dinner, 3 to 4 frs.; service, ½ fr.; “café au lait,” with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the hotel and the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most cases loads and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he expects a small gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of bags and trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to 2 frs. each, and although the conductor does not unload the luggage he expects a gratuity.

Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage should be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others 2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See “Railways” in “Preliminary Information.”

C. B. B.