Chapter 40

26. From Naples to Tunis viâ Palermo

From Naples to Palermo (193 M.). 1. Steamers of the Ferrovie dello Stato (Line C) daily in 9 hrs., at 10.45 p.m. (returning at 8.30 p.m.); fare 25 fr. 5 or 15 fr. 65 c.—2. Società Nazionale, Line XVI (see below) every Mon. evening in 12 hrs., and Lines X & XI every second Frid. aft. in 17¾ hrs. (fares 25 fr. 5, 15 fr. 65 c.).—3. Adria Co. (RR. 23, 24) every Thurs. afternoon, in 15 hrs.; fare 18 fr., without food.—4. Lloyd Sabaudo 1–3 times monthly (comp. R. 24). Passengers, both going and coming, should rise early in order to enjoy the superb approaches to the bays of Palermo and Naples.

From Genoa to Palermo direct (494 M.) every Thurs. (returning on Wed.) by Line XXII (for Palermo, Trapani, Syracuse, and Catania) of the Società Nazionale (fare 80 or 55 fr.).

From Palermo to Tunis (217 M.). 1. Società Nazionale: a. Line XVI (from Naples, see above), leaving Palermo Tues. aft., Trapani Tues. evening, arrives at Tunis Wed. morning (returning from Tunis Wed. night, from Trapani Thurs. morning, from Palermo Thurs. evening, arr. at Naples Frid. morning); fare from Palermo to Tunis 64 fr. 25 or 43 fr. 25 c.; b. Line XVII, from Palermo to Pantelleria and Tunis (small cargo-boats), calling at Castellammare del Golfo, Trapani, Favignana, Marsala, Mazzara, Sciacca, and the island of Pantelleria; dep. from Palermo Thurs. morning, from Mazzara (reached also by railway, 89 M. in 4¼ hrs.; 18 fr. 25, 12 fr. 80, or 8 fr. 30 c.) Frid. afternoon (landing or embarkation in fine weather only), arr. at Tunis Sat. evening (returning from Tunis on Sun. evening, arr. at Mazzara on Mon. evening, and at Palermo Tues. night; fare from Mazzara 73 fr. or 50 fr. 35 c.)—2. Navigation Mixte (Touache Co.), cargo-steamer from Palermo to Tunis direct (coming from Marseilles, R. 21), on Wed. noon, in 18 hrs. (returning Thurs. at noon); fare 60 or 40 fr.—Combined tickets (Naples-Palermo-Tunis) are available by either of the two companies’ boats.

Agents at Naples, Palermo, and Tunis, see pp. , 148, 331.

Naples, see p. . The bay is usually quitted at night. We proceed to the S.S.W., through the Bocca Grande (p. ). After about 1¼ hr. we skirt the rocky W. coast of Capri (p. ).

Towards morning appears to the S.W. the island of Ustĭca (784 ft.), which was visited by an earthquake in March 1906; to the S.E. in clear weather are seen Filicuri (2543 ft.; Greek Phoinikusa) and Alicuri (2175 ft.; the ancient Ericusa), the westmost of the Lipari Islands (p. ); beyond lies the N. coast of Sicily, from Cape Gallo (p. ) and the finely shaped Monte Pellegrino (p. ) to the Madoníe Mts. (6480 ft.), snow-clad in winter.

A scene of striking beauty is revealed as we steam into the *Bay of Palermo, which opens towards the E., between Monte Pellegrino and the smaller pointed headland of Monte Catalfano (1237 ft.), backed by a circus of grand mountains, Monte Cuccio (3448 ft.), Monte Grifone (2550 ft.), and others. After passing between the harbour piers, the Antemurale on the S. and the Molo (lighthouse) on the N., we observe on the left the shallow old harbour of La Cala (p. ) with the ruined fort of Castellammare.

Palermo.—Arrival. The steamers from Naples are berthed at the new Santa Lucia Pier (Pl. G, 4, 5); in the case of the others landing or embarkation is effected by boat (60 c.; with baggage 1 fr.). The custom-house examination is slight. Porter (facchino) for hand-bag 10, trunk 50 c.—From the pier to the town ca. ¾ M. (tramway No. 1, see below). Omnibuses or motor-cars from the hotels await steamers at the pier. Cabs, see below.

Hotels (most frequented Feb.-April). *Villa Igiea, ¼ hr. to the N. of the quay, at the Acquasanta terminus of tramways Nos. 1 & 7, near the sea, with park, casino, and fine view, R. from 8, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7, omn. 3 fr.; *Excelsior Palace (Pl. e; G, 2), Via della Libertà, near the Giardino Inglese, good restaur., R. from 4, B. 1½, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.; *Hôt. des Palmes (Pl. a; E, 3), Via Stabile 103, R. 4–12, B. 1½, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.; three houses of the first class, closed in summer. The following, also of the first class, are open throughout the year. *Hôt. de France (Pl. c; C, 5), near the Giardino Garibaldi, R. 4–10, B. 1½, D. 5, omn. 1½ fr.; *Trinacria (Pl. b; C, 5), with sea view, entrance in Via Butera, R. from 4, B. 1½, D. 5, omn. 1½ fr.; Savoy (Pl. g; E, 3), Via Cavour, R. from 3, D. 4½, omn. 1–1½ fr.; Panormus (Pl. k; E, 3, 4), Via Michele Amari 11, R. from 2½, B. 1¼, déj. 2½, D. 3½ fr.—Less pretending (open all the year round): Milano (Pl. f; F, 3), Via Emerico Amari 114, R. from 3½, omn. 1 fr., well spoken of; Albergo Vittoria (Pl. h; D, 4), Via Bandiera 31, and Central (Pl. d; C, 3), Corso Vittorio Emanuele 343, R. from 2 fr., both with restaurant; Patria (Pl. i; B, 4), Via Alloro 96 (view from roof-terrace), Cavour, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 330, both hôtels garnis (R. from 1½ fr.).

Restaurants (Italian cooking; à la carte). Gran Caffè Nuovo, in the Teatro Biondo (Pl. C, 4), Restaurant de Paris, Via Maqueda 200, both good. Plainer: Vanini, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 405; Ristorante Napoli, same street, No. 265; Ristorante Bologni, same street, No. 381.

Cafés (rarely frequented in the morning). Caffè del Teatro Massimo (p. ); Trinacria, Quattro Canti di Campagna (Pl. E, 3); Caflisch, Via Maqueda 250; Café Italia, Via Cavour.—English Tea Rooms, Piazza Marina 41.—Beer. Gran Caffè Nuovo (see above); Trinacria (see above); Gambrinus, Teatro Massimo.

Cabs. For 1–4 pers., within Via Lincoln, Corso Tukery, Piazza dell’ Indipendenza, and Piazza Ucciardone, per drive 50 c., from midnight to dawn 1 fr.; to outer quarters, drive under ½ hr., also to the quay or the railway-stations 1 fr.; from midnight to dawn 1 fr. 50 c.: one hour 1 fr. 80 c., each addit. ¼ hr. 40 c.—Hand-bag 20, trunk 40 c.—Driving in the inner city on Good Friday prohibited.—For long drives a bargain should be made; thus, to Monreale (p. ), with stay of 1½ hr., 7–8 (or out of season 4–6) fr.

Tramways (within the city 10, transfer 15 c.). Among the chief are: 1. From Piazza Marina (Pl. C, 5) to Via Francesco Crispi (Pl. E, F, 4), Piazza Ucciardone (Pl. G, 4), and Acquasanta (Villa Igiea).—4. From Porta Maqueda (Pl. D, E, 3), to Via Francesco Crispi, Piazza Ucciardone, and Falde (p. ).—7. From Piazza Marina to Via Lincoln (Pl. B, A, 6–4; Central Station), Corso Tukery, Piazza dell’ Indipendenza (Pl. B, 1), Corso Alberto Amedeo (Pl. B-D, 1), Politeama Garibaldi (Pl. F, 3), and Acquasanta (Villa Igiea).—9. From Piazza Bologni (Pl. C, 3) to Piazza dell’ Indipendenza, Rocca (p. ), and Monreale (p. ), every ½ hr., in 35 min.; fare 40 (back 30) c.—Above Rocca (gradient ca. 1 in 8) there is a funicular section 1100 yds. long.

Post Office. (Pl. C, 3), Piazza Bologni.—Telegraph. Office (Pl. C, 3), Via Maqueda 222; also in the Piazza Marina.

Steamboat Lines. Società Nazionale, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 96, corner of Piazza Marina; Ferrovie dello Stato (steamer service), J. & V. Florio, Via Roma; Navigation Mixte and White Star, A. Tagliavia, same street, No. 51; Austro-American (p. ), A. Lauria; Cunard, Piazza Marina 13; Anchor Line, E. G. Orr (see below).

Banks. Banca Commerciale, d’Italia, and di Sicilia, all in Corso Vittorio Emanuele.—Thos. Cook & Son, same street, No. 155.

Consuls. British, R. G. Macbean, Via Francesco Crispi; vice-consul, W. A. Morrison.—United States, H. De Soto, Piazza Castelnuovo 44.—Lloyd’s Agent, E. G. Orr, Piazza Marina.

English Church. Holy Cross (‘Anglicana’; Pl. E, 3, 4), Via Stabile; services every Sun. at 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. in winter.

One Day and a Half is the minimum time for a glance at the sights. 1st. In the forenoon, Cappella Palatina (p. ), San Giovanni degli Eremiti (p. ); Cathedral (p. ), Martorana (p. ), Museum (p. ); in the afternoon (best in the early morning in summer), Monte Pellegrino (p. ); in summer, towards evening, Villa Giulia and the Marina (p. ).—2nd. In the forenoon, Monreale (p. ).

Palermo, the capital of Sicily, with 250,000 inhab., the seat of an archbishop and a university, lies on the beautiful bay named after it, in the midst of the Conca d’Oro, a fertile plain artificially watered, and yielding oranges, lemons, mandarins, and other fruits in profusion. Palermo is also the chief seaport in the island, whence fruit, wine, sumach, and the sulphur of S. Sicily (79% of the world’s consumption) are largely exported.

The city, the Panormus of antiquity, began its career as a Phœnician colony; it next became the capital of the island under the Carthaginian domination, but was conquered by the Romans in 254 B. C. Next came the Ostrogoths and the Byzantines, who were succeeded by the Aglabides and Fatimites (p. ), who again made the town the capital of the island under the name of Balerm, and opened up Sicily to Moorish culture. When Palermo became the residence of its Norman conquerors (1072–1194) they erected castles and churches, partly employing Arabian architects and artificers, whose work shows a charming blend of Byzantine, Arabian, and Oriental features. Later, as the favourite seat of the Hohenstaufen (1194–1266), Palermo attained the zenith of its glory. The old town, however, owes its architectural character to the Spanish viceroys (16–17th cent.), who chose it as their residence in spite of the protests of Messina. Since the union of Sicily with the kingdom of Italy (1860) there has been a great revival of building enterprise, with the result that broad streets and villa-suburbs have sprung up, particularly on the N. side of the old town.

From the Santa Lucia Pier (Pl. G, 4, 5) we enter the old town by the Via Francesco Crispi (Pl. F, E, 4; tramway No. 1, see p. ), leading to the old Porta San Giorgio (Pl. E, 4). The Via Cavour diverges here to the right to the old Porta Maqueda (p. ); we turn to the left, cross the Piazza del Castello (Pl. D, 5), pass the old Fort Castellammare, and skirt the Cala (p. ), or old harbour, a little beyond which is the—

Piazza Marina (Pl. C, 5), where the beautiful *Giardino Garibaldi recalls the tropics with its luxuriant vegetation.

A little to the N.E. of the Giardino is the Porta Felice (Pl. C, 5, 6; p. ), from which to the Porta Nuova (Pl. B, 1; p. ), over 1 M. distant, runs the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, intersecting the whole of the old town. This long street owes its present form to Don Pedro de Toledo (p. ), but having been for centuries the route from the harbour to the castle, it has retained its old popular name of Cássaro (from the Arabic kasr, castle).

At the Quattro Canti (Pl. C, 3), the old business centre of the city, the Corso is crossed by the Via Maqueda (Pl. A-D, 4, 3; p. ), begun by the viceroy Marqués de Villena in 1609, and now a second important artery of the old town.

The Corso leads to the Piazza del Duomo, on the N. side of which rises the—

*Cathedral (Pl. C, 2), dedicated to the Assunta, on the site of an older church which the Moors had converted into a mosque. The original Romanesque building, erected by Archbishop Walter of the Mill (Gualterio Offamilio) after 1185, has been entirely transformed in the course of centuries, with the exception of the lower part of the clock-tower and the external decoration of the choir niche. The handsome W. façade with the two towers which date from 1300–59, the incongruous dome, and the modernized internal decorations are the work of the Florentine Fern. Fuga (1781–1801). The right aisle, on the left of the S. portal, contains the *Monuments of Norman and Hohenstaufen monarchs.

At the S.W. end of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, beyond the Piazza della Vittoria (Pl. B, 2), on a slight eminence, which from the earliest times has been the site of the castle, rises the—

Palazzo Reale (Pl. B, 1), which still bears traces of its original fortified character, although the foundation walls alone are Arabian, and the central tower with the pointed arch (Santa Ninfa, p. ) is the only relic of the Norman part of the building.

The last door on the left, opposite the monument of Philip V., leads into the palace-yard (sticks and umbrellas are left with the porter; guide ½ fr., but quite unnecessary). We ascend the stairs to the left, on the first floor turn to the right, and pass through the arcaded passage to the—

**Cappella Palatina, a perfect gem of mediæval art, built by king Roger II. in 1132–40 in the Arabic-Norman style (adm. daily 7 to 10.30 free; later, week-days till 4, Sun. till 3, fee; best light in the morning). In the interior the chapel is a basilica with two aisles; including the choir and apse it is 36 yds. long and 14 yds. in breadth. The Arabian pointed arches are borne by ten antique columns; the central dome, 59 ft. high, is adorned with Greek and Latin inscriptions. The beautiful Arabian timber ceiling in the nave, with its Cufic (early Arabic) inscription, is joined to the walls by stalactite vaulting. All the walls are incrusted with glass-mosaics on a gold ground.

The palace-tower, Santa Ninfa, now an observatory, is famed for the delightful panorama it affords (fee ½–1 fr.; not always accessible). The top of the Porta Nuova (Pl. B, 1), close by, also overlooks the city and the Conca d’Oro.

Descending the steps by the monument of Philip V., we now follow the Via del Bastione a Porta di Castro and the Via dei Benedettini to the ruined church of *San Giovanni degli Eremiti (Pl. A, B, 1, 2; adm. by the garden-gate; fee 25 c.). The interior is in the form of a so-called Egyptian cross (p. ), with three apses. The nave is divided into two squares by a pointed arch. Quite an Oriental effect is produced by the five unadorned domes, which are best viewed from the pretty cloisters (now a garden). Adjoining the S. side of the church is a dilapidated little mosque.

We now return to the Quattro Canti (p. ) and turn to the right into the Via Maqueda. Here, immediately on the right, is the University (Pl. C, 3); on the left is the Palazzo di Città or Municipio. Just beyond the latter is the small Piazza Bellini, whence steps ascend to two old Norman churches (adm. daily 9–4, 1 fr.; Sun. free). The smaller, San Cataldo, of 1161, is crowned with Arabian pinnacles. Still more curious is the larger church—

*La Martorana (Pl. B, C, 4), named after its founder, the Greek admiral of Roger I. (1143), and known also as Santa Maria dell’ Ammiraglio, a Byzantine edifice with Norman additions, now suitably restored. The two lower stories of the clock-tower are part of the original church.

From the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, a little to the E. of the Quattro Canti, runs the new Via Roma (Pl. C, D, 4) to the N.N.W. to the Piazza San Domenico. On the E. side of this piazza rises the large church of San Domenico (Pl. D, 4), containing monuments to many eminent Sicilians.—Behind the church, in the Via Bambinai, is the Oratorio del Santissimo Rosario (keys at No. 16, adjacent), containing a fine Madonna del Rosario by A. van Dyck.

From the Piazza San Domenico the Via Monteleone leads to the N.W. to the Piazza dell’ Olivella, where an old monastery on the right contains the—

Museo Nazionale (Pl. D, 3; week-days 10–3, 1 fr.; Sun. 11–3, free, but not fully shown; closed on high festivals, on the last three days of the Carnival, and in Holy Week).

Ground Floor. From the Primo Cortile, containing mediæval and Renaissance portals, sculptures, and inscriptions, we enter the Secondo Cortile (once the cloisters), where ancient sculptures and inscriptions are exhibited, on the left Sicilian, on the right those of foreign or uncertain origin.

From the vestibule, beyond the cloisters, we pass through a small room, containing two Phœnician sarcophagi found near Palermo, to the Sala di Panormo, with mosaics and inscriptions from Panormus, and opposite to it the Sala del Fauno, so named from the fine satyr in the style of Praxiteles which it contains.

The adjoining Sala di Selinunte contains the celebrated *Metopes of Selinus (p. ). On the left, between parts of the ponderous entablature of the oldest temple, are three rude and primitive metopes of the beginning of the 6th cent. B. C. (quadriga, beheading of Medusa, Hercules and the Cercopes); then the lower halves of two metopes, dating from about the middle of the 6th cent. (battle of the gods and the giants); on the back-wall four metopes of the early 5th cent., a period just before the prime of Greek art (Hercules slaying the queen of the Amazons, Hera unveiling herself before Zeus, Actæon torn to pieces by the dogs of Artemis, Athene slaying a giant).

The stairs in the forecourt ascend to the—

First Floor. The steps to the left lead to the Sala Arăba, which contains Arabian and Arab-Norman antiquities found in Sicily (door-frame from the Martorana monastery, earthenware vase from Mazzara) and early Arabian objects from Cairo. The Corridoio di Ponente contains painted female figures (4th–3rd cent. B. C.), similar to the terracottas of Tanagra. Beyond the cloisters is the room of the ancient bronzes, among which we note a fountain-group of Hercules and the Cerynæan hind, from Pompeii, and a ram marvellously lifelike. Next come two rooms on the left with Greek vases. From the corridor on the opposite side we enter the Gabinetto di Numismatica, an admirable collection of the ancient coins of Sicily and of antique trinkets. The last room contains gorgeous church vestments.

On the Second Floor is the Gallery of Pictures, chiefly by Sicilian masters (Pietro Novelli and others); a small winged altar-piece by Jan Mabuse (1501?), a gem of Netherlandish art, should, however, be noted.

From the Museum the Via della Bara leads to the W. to the Piazza Giuseppe Verdi (Pl. D, 3), in which rises the Teatro Massimo or Vittorio Emanuele, the largest in Italy.—At the N. end of the Via Maqueda (p. ) is the old Porta Maqueda (Pl. D, E, 3), whence the Via Ruggiero Settimo leads into the broad—

Via della Libertà (Pl. F, G, 3, 2), a fashionable evening promenade, ending at the pretty Giardino Inglese (Pl. G, H, 2).

The Marina, officially named Foro Umberto Primo (Pl. C, B, 6), which begins at the Porta Felice (Pl. C, 5, 6; p. ), near the harbour, affords a superb walk and is a favourite resort on summer evenings after 6 (music at 9).

At the S. end of the Marina lies the *Villa Giulia or Flora (Pl. A, B, 6), one of the most beautiful public gardens in Italy, where the blossoming trees diffuse their fragrance in spring far around. It is adjoined on the W. by the *Botanic Garden (Pl. A, B, 6; gardener 25–50 c.), almost vying with the famous Jardin d’Essai at Algiers (p. ).

A visit to *Monte Pellegrino (1968 ft.), the ancient Heirkte, a bare limestone hill to the N. of Palermo, should not be omitted in clear weather. (Tramway No. 4 to Falde, near the S. foot of the hill, see p. ; donkey, ordered in the town beforehand, with attendant, 4 fr.)

The zigzag path, visible from the town, ascends in about 1½ hr. from the Punta di Bersaglio, 5 min. to the N. of Falde, to the Grotto of St. Rosalia (d. about 1170), which has been well described by Goethe. Near it are a cottage, where bread and wine may be obtained (bargaining advisable), and the restaurant Argos-Eden (open only on Sun.).

A steep footpath ascends thence in ½ hr. to the Telégrafo, the signal-station on the summit, where we enjoy a *View of the beautiful basin of Palermo, of the indented N. coast of Sicily, and of the Lipari Islands (p. ). To the E., beyond the Madoníe (p. ) and the distant Nebrodian Mts., towers Mt. Ætna.

Monreale (tramway No. 9 and carr., see pp. , 148) is reached from the Porta Nuova (Pl. B, 1; p. ) by the Corso Calatafími. Beyond (3 M.) La Rocca the road ascends to the (¾ hr.) top of the ‘royal hill’ (1148 ft.). The town of Monreale (Restaur. Savoy, Eden; pop. 24,000) owes its origin to a Benedictine abbey, founded by William II. (1174), and to the famous cathedral (1174–89) built here as the seat of the second archbishopric in the island.

The **Cathedral is a Norman Romanesque basilica consisting of nave, aisles, and three apses, 335 ft. long and 131 ft. wide. Externally the choir end of the church, with its Arabian pointed arches and mosaic decoration, is particularly fine. The magnificent main portal, flanked in northern style with two square towers, has two admirable bronze doors by ‘Bonannus Civis Pisanus’ (1186). The doors of the side-portal are by Barisano. The pointed arches of the nave rest on granite columns, and all the walls are lavishly decorated with glass mosaics. The roof (172 steps; verger, who shows the chapels also, 50–75 c.) commands a splendid view.

Of the Benedictine monastery nothing is now left except the *Cloisters, the pointed arches of which are adorned with mosaics and borne by 216 columns in pairs, remarkable for the variety of their capitals and for the inlaid ornamentation of their shafts (date ca. 1200). Entrance (1 fr.) from the Piazza del Duomo by the side-door to the left. The custodian shows also the garden of the monastery, where we have a charming view of Palermo.