The Boy Mechanic Volume I 700 Things For Boys To Do (part 3)

Secure a number of glass plates of the size that will fit your lantern and clean them on both sides. Dissolve a piece of white rosin in a half-pint of gasoline and flow it over one side of the plates and allow to dry. Place the dried plate over a picture you wish to reproduce and draw the outline upon the thin film. A lead pencil, pen and ink or colored crayons can be used, as the rosin and gasoline give a surface that can be written upon as easily as upon paper. When the slide becomes uninteresting it can be cleaned with a little clear gasoline and used again to make another slide. A slide can be made in this way in five minutes and an interesting outline picture in even less time than that.

This solution also makes an ideal retouching varnish for negatives.

Contributed by J.E. Noble, Toronto, Canada.

How to Make a Developing Box

A box for developing 3-1/4 by 4-1/4 in. plates is shown in detail in the accompanying sketch. It is made of strips of wood 1/4-in. thick, cut and grooved, and then glued together as indicated. If desired, a heavier piece can be placed on the bottom. Coat the inside of the box with paraffin or wax, melted and applied with a brush. Allow it to fill all crevices so that the developing box will be watertight. It will hold 4 oz. of developer. Boxes for larger plates can be made in the same manner. Use a small wooden clip in taking the plates out of the box, being careful not to scratch the sensitive film.

Contributed by R.J. Smith, Milwaukee, Wis.

Staining Wood

A very good method of staining close-grained woods is to use muriatic acid. The acid is put on with a brush like any ordinary stain. The colors thus obtained are artistic and most beautiful, and cannot be duplicated by any known pigment. The more coats applied the darker the color will be. This method of staining has the advantage of requiring no wiping or rubbing.

Contributed by August T. Neyer, One Cloud, Cal.

Sheet-Metal Whisk-Broom Holder

Completed Holder
Brass Fastened to Board-Method of Riveting

A whisk-broom holder such as is shown in the accompanying picture may be easily made by the amateur. The tools needed are few: a pair of tin shears, a metal block of some kind upon which to pound when riveting, a hammer or mallet, several large nails, and a stout board upon which to work up the design. A rivet punch is desirable, though not absolutely necessary.

The material required is a sheet of No. 24 gauge copper or brass of a size equal to that of the proposed holder, plus a 3/8-in. border all around, into which to place the screws that are to be used to hold the metal to the board while pounding it. The design shown in the picture is 6 by 8 in. at the widest part and has proven a satisfactory holder for a small broom.

Carefully work out the design desired on a piece of drawing paper, both outline and decoration, avoiding sharp curves in the outline because they are hard to follow with the shears when cutting the metal. If the design is to be of two-part symmetry, like the one shown, draw one part, then fold on a center line and duplicate this by inserting double-surfaced carbon paper and tracing the part already drawn. With this same carbon paper transfer the design to the metal. Fasten the metal to the board firmly, using 1/2-in. screws placed about 1 in. apart in holes previously punched in the margin with a nail set or nail.

To flatten the metal preparatory to fastening it to the board, place a block of wood upon it and pound on this block, never upon the metal directly, or the surface will be dented and look bad in the finished piece.

Take the nail, a 10 or 20-penny wire or cut, and file it to a chisel edge, rounding it just enough to take the sharpness off so that it will not cut the metal. This tool is used for indenting the metal so as to bring out the outline of the design on the surface.

There are several ways of working up the design. The simplest way is to take the nail and merely "chase" the outlines of holder design. Remove the screws, cut off the surplus metal and file the edges until they are smooth. Make a paper pattern for the metal band that is to hold the broom. Trace around this pattern on the metal and cut out the shape. Punch rivet holes in holder and band, also a hole by which to hang the whole upon the wall.

Rivet the band to the holder. Punch the rivet holes with a nail set and make the holes considerably larger than the diameter of the rivet, for in flattening the raised edges the holes will close. Do the riveting on a metal block and keep the head of the rivet on the back of the holder. Round up the "upset" end of the riveted part as shown in the picture. Do not bend it over or flatten it. This rounding is done by pounding around the outer edge of the rivet end and not flat upon the top as in driving a nail.

Clean the metal by scrubbing it off with a solution composed of one-half water and one-half nitric acid. Use a rag tied to a stick and do not allow the acid to touch either your hands or clothes. A metal lacquer may next be applied to keep the metal from early corrosion.

How to Make a Camp Stool

The stool, as shown in Fig. 1, is made of beech or any suitable wood with a canvas or carpet top. Provide four lengths for the legs, each 1 in. square and 18-1/2 in. long; two lengths, l-1/8 in. square and 11 in. long, for the top, and two lengths, 3/4 in. square, one 8-1/2 and the other 10-1/2 in. long, for the lower rails.

The legs are shaped at the ends to fit into a 5/8-in. hole bored in the top pieces as shown in Fig. 2, the distance between the centers of the holes being 7-5/8 in. in one piece and 9-5/8 in. in the other. The lower rails are fitted in the same way, using a 1/2-in. hole bored into each leg 2-1/2 in. up from the lower end.

Each pair of legs has a joint for folding and this joint is made by boring a hole in the middle of each leg, inserting a bolt and riveting it over washers with a washer placed between the legs as shown in Fig. 3. The entire length of each part is rounded off for the sake of neatness as well as lightness.

About 1/2 yd. of 11-in. wide material will be required for the seat and each end of this is nailed securely on the under side of the top pieces. The woodwork may be stained and varnished or plain varnished and the cloth may be made to have a pleasing effect by stencilling in some neat pattern.

A Small Home-Made Electric Motor

The accompanying photographs show the construction of a very unique electric motor, the parts consisting of the frame from an old bicycle pedal wrapped with insulated wire to make the armature and three permanent magnets taken from an old telephone magneto. The pedal, being ball bearing, rotated with very little friction and at a surprisingly high rate of speed. The dust cap on the end of the pedal was removed and a battery connection, having quite a length of threads, was soldered to it as shown in the photograph. The flanges were removed from an ordinary spool and two strips of brass fastened on its circumference for the commutator. The spool was held in position by a small binding post nut. The shape of this nut made a good pulley for a cord belt.

Contributed by John Shahan, Attalla, Ala.

Rocker Blocks on Coaster Sleds

The accompanying sketch shows a coasting sled with rocker blocks attached on both front and rear runners. The runners and the other parts of the sled are made in the usual way, but instead of fastening the rear runners solid to the top board and the front runners to turn on a solid plane fifth wheel, they are pivoted so each pair of runners will rock when going over bumps.

The illustration will explain this construction without going into detail and giving dimensions for a certain size, as these rocker blocks can be attached to any coaster or toboggan sled. It will be noticed that the top board may bend as much as it will under the load without causing the front ends of the rear runners and the rear ends of the front runners gouging into the snow or ice.

Contributed by W. F. Quackenbush, New York City.

How to Make a Watch Fob

This novelty watch fob is made from felt, using class, college or lodge colors combined in the making with emblems or initials colored on the texture. Two pieces of felt, each 1-1/4 in. wide and 4-1/4 in. long, are cut V-shaped on one end of each piece about 1 in. in depth, and 3/8 in. in from the other end of one piece cut a slit 1/2 in. long; the end of the other piece is folded over, making a lap of about 1 in., and a slit is cut through the double thickness to match the one cut in the first piece. The desired emblem, initial, or pennant is stenciled on the outside of the folded piece with class, college or lodge colors. The strap is made from a strip of felt 3/16 in. wide and 8-1/4 in. long; stitched on both edges for appearance. Make a hole with a punch 1-1/4 in. from one end, and two holes in the other, one about 1 in. and the other 2-3/4 in. from the end. Purchase a 1/2-in. buckle from a harness maker and you will have all the parts necessary for the fob. Assemble as shown in the sketch. The end of the strap having the two holes is put through the slots cut in the wide pieces and the tongue of the buckle is run through both holes. The other end is passed through the ring of the watch and fastened in the buckle as in an ordinary belt.

Contributed by C. D. Luther. Ironwood. Mich.

Drill Lubricant

A good lubricant for drilling is made by dissolving 3/4 to 1 lb. of sal-soda in one pailful of water.

New Way to Remove a Bottle Stopper

Take a bottle of liquid, something that is carbonated, and with the aid of a napkin form a pad which is applied to the lower end of the bottle. Strike hard with repeated blows against the solid surface of a wall, as shown in the sketch, and the cork will be driven out, sometimes with so much force that a part of the liquid comes with it and deluges the spectators, if desired by the operator.

Imitation Fancy Wings on Hinges

The accompanying sketch shows how I overcame the hardware troubles when I was not able to find ready-made hinges in antique design for a mission sideboard and buffet. This method allows a wide range of designs, which can be made at home with ordinary tools. The wings are made of copper or brass and finished in repoussé, or can be tarnished and the high places burnished with 000 sandpaper or steel wool, then lacquered with white shellac or banana bronzing liquid.

Contributed by John H. Schatz, Indianapolis, Ind.

How to Make a Child's Rolling Toy

Secure a tin can, or a pasteboard box, about 2 in. in diameter and 2 in. or more in height. Punch two holes A, Fig. 1, in the cover and the bottom, 1/4 in. from the center and opposite each other. Then cut a curved line from one hole to the other, as shown at B. A piece of lead, which can be procured from a plumber, is cut in the shape shown in Fig. 2, the size being 1 by 1-1/8 by 1-1/4 in. An ordinary rubber band is secured around the neck of the piece of lead, as shown in Fig. 3, allowing the two ends to be free. The pieces of tin between the holes A, Fig. 1, on both top and bottom, are turned up as in Fig. 4, and the ends of the bands looped over them. The flaps are then turned down on the band and the can parts put together as in Fig. 5. The can may be decorated with brilliant colored stripes, made of paper strips pasted on the tin. When the can is rolled away from you, it winds up the rubber band, thus storing the propelling power which makes it return.

Contributed by Mack Wilson, Columbus, O.

How to Make a Portfolio

Secure a piece of Russian modeling calf leather of a size equal to 12 by 16 in. Make a paper pattern of the size indicated in the accompanying drawing, putting in the design.

The necessary tools consist of a stick with a straight edge and a tool with an end shaped like that of a nutpick. A nutpick with a V-shaped point will do if the sharpness is smoothed off by means of a piece of emery paper, so that it will indent without cutting the leather. These tools can be bought for this special purpose, but are not essential for this piece if the nutpick is at hand. There will also be needed a level, non-absorbent surface upon which to lay the leather while working it. A piece of thick glass, metal, or marble will serve.

Begin work by moistening the leather on the back side with a sponge or cloth. Moisten as much as you dare and still not have the moisture show on the face side. Next place the leather on the glass, face up, and, holding the pattern firmly in place so that it will not slip—if possible get some one to hold the pattern for you—place the straight edge on the straight lines and mark out or indent. After this has been done, mark over the design. A pencil may be used the first time over. The pattern is now to be removed and all the lines gone over with the tool to make them deep and uniform.

The surplus stock around the edges may not be cut off. A neat way to finish the edges is to punch a series of holes entirely around through which a thin leather thong may be laced. If it is desired to "line" the inside, this should be done before the holes are punched or the lacing done.

Gear for Model Work

When a gear is needed to drive a small pinion and there is none of the right size at hand, one can be made in the following manner: Turn up a wood disk to the proper diameter and 1/4 in. thicker than the pinion, and cut a flat bottom groove 3/16 in. deep in its face. The edges should be about 1/8 in. or more thick on each side. Measure the distance between centers of two adjacent teeth in the pinion and step this off around the periphery in the bottom of the groove. Drill holes into the wood on each point stepped off and insert steel pins made of wire, allowing the end of each to protrude just far enough to act as a tooth. In this way a good gear for light work can be quickly and cheaply constructed.

Contributed by Henry Schaefer, New York City.

A Home-Made Vise

While making a box I had some dovetailing to do, and as there was no vise on the bench I rigged up a substitute. I secured a board 3/4 in. thick, 3 in. wide and 20 in. long and bored a 1/2-in. hole through it, 1 in. from each end. The board was then attached to the bench with two screws passing through washers and the two holes in the board into the bench top. The screws should be of a length suitable to take in the piece to be worked.

Contributed by A. M. Rice, Syracuse, New York.

Cardboard Spiral Turned by Heat

A novel attraction for a window display can be made from a piece of stiff cardboard cut in a spiral as shown in Fig. 1. The cardboard should be about 7 or 8 in. in diameter. Tie a piece of string to the center point of the spiral and fasten it so as to hang over a gas jet, Fig. 2. A small swivel must be put in the string at the top or near the cardboard, if it is desired to have the spiral run for any length of time. The cardboard will spin around rapidly and present quite an attraction.

Contributed by Harry Szerlip, Brooklyn, N. Y.

A Workbench for the Amateur

The accompanying detail drawing shows a design of a portable workbench suitable for the amateur woodworker. This bench can be made easily by anyone who has a few sharp tools and a little spare time. If the stock is purchased from the mill ready planed and cut to length, much of the hard labor will be saved. Birch or maple wood makes a very good bench, and the following pieces should be ordered:

4 legs, 3 by 3 by 36.
2 side rails, 3 by 3 by 62-1/2 in.
2 end rails, 3 by 3 by 20 in.
1 back board, 1 by 9 by 80 in.
1 top board, 2 by 12 by 77 in.
1 top board, 1 by 12 by 77 in.
2 crosspieces, 1-1/2 by 3 by 24 in.
1 piece for clamp, 1-1/2 by 6-1/2 by 12 in.
1 piece for clamp, 1-1/2 by 6-1/2 by 14 in.
4 guides, 2 by 2 by 18 in.
1 screw block, 3 by 3 by 6 in.
1 piece, 1-1/2 by 4-1/2 by 10-1/2 in.

Make the lower frame first. Cut tenons on the rails and mortise the posts, then fasten them securely together with 3/8 by 5-in. lag screws as shown. Also fasten the 1-1/2 by 3 by 24-in. pieces to the tops of the posts with screws. The heads should be countersunk or else holes bored in the top boards to fit over them. Fasten the front top board to the crosspieces by lag screws through from the under side. The screws can be put in from the top for the 1-in. thick top board.

Fasten the end pieces on with screws, countersinking the heads of the vise end. Cut the 2-in. square holes in the 1-1/2 by 4-1/2 by 10-in. pieces for the vise slides, and fit it in place for the side vise. Also cut square holes in the one end piece for the end vise slides as shown. Now fit up the two clamps. Fasten the slides to the front pieces with screws. Countersink the heads of the screws so they will not be in the way of the hands when the vise is used. The two clamp screws should be about 1-1/2 in. in diameter. They can be purchased at a hardware store. A block should be fitted under the crosspiece to hold the nut for the end vise. After you have the slides fitted, put them in place and bore the holes for the clamp screws.

The back board can now be fastened to the back with screws as shown in the top view. The bench is now complete, except for a couple of coats of oil which should be applied to give it a finish and preserve the wood. The amateur workman, as well as the pattern maker, will find this a very handy and serviceable bench for his workshop.

As the amateur workman does not always know just what tools he will need, a list is given which will answer for a general class of work. This list can be added to as the workman becomes more proficient in his line and has need for other tools. Only the the better grade of tools should be purchased as they are the cheapest in the long run. If each tool is kept in a certain place, it can be easily found when wanted.

1 bench plane or jointer;
1 jack plane or smoother;
1 cross cut saw, 24 in.;
1 rip saw, 24 in.;
1 claw hammer;
1 set gimlets;
1 brace and set of bits;
2 screwdrivers, 3 and 6 in.;
1 countersink;
1 compass saw;
1 set chisels;
1 wood scraper;
1 monkey wrench;
1 2-ft. rule;
1 marking gauge;
1 pair pliers;
1 nail set;
1 pair dividers;
1 pocket level;
1 6-in. try square;
1 oilstone;
No.1, 2 and 00 sandpaper.

Repairing a Worn Knife Blade

When the blade of a favorite pocket knife, after constant use, becomes like A, Fig. 1, it is more dangerous than useful. To cut down the already worn blade would leave only a stump, but if the blade is fastened in a vise and the point B filed off until it is like C, Fig. 2, the projecting point A, Fig. 1, will sink into the handle as shown at D, Fig. 3, and the knife will be given a new lease of usefulness.

Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

How to Make a Leather Spectacle Case

The spectacle case shown in the accompanying illustration may be made of either calf or cow skin. The calf skin, being softer, will be easier to work, but will not make as rigid a case as the cow skin. If calf skin is to be used, secure a piece of modeling calf. The extreme width of the case is 2-3/8 in. and the length 6-5/8 in. Two pieces will be required of this size. Put on the design before the two parts are sewed together. First draw the design on paper, then prepare the leather. Place the leather on a small non-absorbent surface, such as copper or brass, and moisten the back side with as much water as it will take and still not show on the face side. Turn the leather, lay the design on the face, and hold it in place while both the outline and decoration are traced on the surface with a pencil or some tool that will make a sharp line without tearing the paper.

After the outlines are traced, go over the indentations a second time so as to make them sharp and distinct. There are special modeling tools that can be purchased for this purpose, but a V-shaped nut pick, if smoothed with emery paper so that it will not cut the leather, will do just as well.

Take a stippling tool—if no such tool is at hand, a cup-pointed nail set will do—and stamp the background. It is intended that the full design shall be placed on the back and the same design placed on the front as far as the material will allow. Be careful in stamping not to pound so hard as to cut the leather. A little rubbing on the point with emery will take off the sharpness always found on a new tool.

Having prepared the two sides, they may be placed together and sewed around the edges.

If cow hide is preferred, the same method of treatment is used, but a form will need to be made and placed inside the case while the leather is drying to give it the right shape. The form can be made of a stick of wood.

Waterproofing a Wall

The best way to make a tinted wall waterproof is to first use a material composed of cement properly tinted and with no glue in it—one that will not require a glue size on the wall. After this coating of cement is applied directly to the plaster, cover it completely with water enamel and, when dry, give the surface a thorough coating of varnish. This will make a perfectly impervious covering, which steam, water or heat will not affect.

Contributed by Julia A. White, New York City.

Polishing Flat Surfaces

The work of finishing a number of brass castings with flat sides was accomplished on an ordinary polishing wheel, from which the first few layers of cloth were removed and replaced with emery cloth. The emery surface of the cloth was placed outward and trimmed to the same diameter as the wheel. This made a sanding and polishing wheel in one.

Contributed by Chester L. Cobb, Portland, Maine.

Rubber Tip for Chair Legs

An inexpensive method of preventing a chair from scratching the floor is to bore a hole of the proper size in the bottom end of each chair leg and then procure four rubber stoppers of uniform size and press them into place. This cushion of rubber eliminates vibrations, and they will not slip nor mar the finest surface upon which they rest.

Contributed by W. A. Jaquythe, Richmond, Cal.

Adjusting a Plumb-Bob Line

When plumbing a piece of work, if there is no help at hand to hold the overhead line, it is common practice to fasten the plumb line to a nail or other suitable projection. On coming down to the lower floor it is often found that the bob has been secured either too high or too low. When fastening the line give it plenty of slack and when the lower floor is reached make a double loop in the line, as shown in the sketch. Tightening up on the parts AA will bind the loop bight B, and an adjustable friction-held loop, C, will be had for adjusting the bob accurately either up or down.

Contributed by Chas. Herrman, New York City.

Drier for Footwear

A drier for footwear can be readily made by a tinner, or anyone that can shape tin and solder. The drier consists of a pipe of sufficient length to enter the longest boot leg. Its top is bent at right angles and the other end is riveted to a base, an inverted stewpan, for instance, in whose bottom a few perforations have been made to let air in. The boot or stocking to be dried is placed over the pipe and the whole set on a heated surface. The heat will cause a rapid circulation of air which will dry the article quickly.

Contributed by Wm. Roberts, Cambridge, Mass.

Repairing A Roller Shade

A very satisfactory repair can be made by using a good photographic paste to fasten a torn window shade to its roller.

A Shot Scoop

A Small Square Scoop Made of Tin for Dipping Up Shot Stored in a Square Bin

In the ammunition department of our hardware store the shot was kept in regular square bins and dished out with a round-bottom scoop. This was very difficult, especially when the bottom of the bin was nearly reached, as the round scoop would roll over them and only pick up a few at a time. To overcome this difficulty I constructed a square-shaped scoop that gave entire satisfaction. The scoop can be used for other purposes as well.

A thick piece of tin, 6-1/4 by 9-3/4 in., was marked out as shown, the pattern being cut on the full lines and bent on the dotted ones. The strip for the handle was riveted to the end of the scoop.

Contributed by Geo. B. Wright, Middletown, Conn.

Removing Grease Stains from the Leaves of a Book

Happening to get a grease spot on a page of a valuable book, I found a way to remove it without injury to the paper, which has been tried out several times with success. Heat an iron and hold it as near as possible to the stain without discoloring the paper, and the grease will disappear. If any traces of the grease are left, apply powdered calcined magnesia. Bone, well calcined and powdered, and plaster of Paris are also excellent absorbents of grease.

A beautifully bound book, and quite new, had oil from a lamp spilled over it. There was no quicklime to be had, so some bones were quickly calcined, pulverized and applied. The next morning there was no trace of oil, but only an odor which soon vanished.

Contributed by Paul Keller, Indianapolis, Ind.

Tightening Cane in Furniture

Split cane, used as part of furniture, such as chair seats, often becomes loose and the threads of cane pull out. This can be prevented by sponging with hot water, or by applying steaming cloths to the cane. This process also tightens the shreds of cane and does not injure ordinary furniture. If the article is highly polished, care should be taken to prevent the hot water from coming in contact with anything but the cane.

Cleaner for a Stovepipe

A long horizontal pipe for a stove soon fills with soot and must be cleaned. The usual method is to beat the pipe after taking it down to be cleaned, but a much better device for the purpose is shown in the sketch.

A scrub brush is procured and cut in two, the parts being hinged to a crosspiece fastened to a long broom handle. The brushes are pressed outward against the inside surfaces of the pipe with a wire and spring, as shown.

Contributed by C. L. Herbert, Chicago, Illinois.

Mounting Photo Prints on Glass

Photograph prints can be mounted on glass with an adhesive made by soaking 1 oz. of sheet gelatine in cold water to saturation, then dissolving in 3-1/2 oz. of boiling water. Let the solution cool to about 110 deg. F., then immerse the print in it and squeegee, face down, on a clear piece of glass. When dry, take a damp cloth or soft sponge and wipe off any surplus gelatine on the glass.

Dropping Coins in a Glass Full of Water

Take a glass and fill it to the brim with water, taking care that the surface of the water is raised a little above the edge of the glass, but not running over. Place a number of nickels or dimes on the table near the glass and ask your spectators how many coins can be put into the water without making it overflow. No doubt the reply will be that the water will run over before two coins are dropped in. But it is possible to put in ten or twelve of them. With a great deal of care the coins may be made to fall without disturbing the water, the surface of which will become more and more convex before the water overflows.

Hollow-Grinding Ice Skates

The accompanying sketch illustrates a practical method of clamping ice skates to hold them for grinding the small arc of a circle so much desired.

The U-shaped clamps are made of 3/4-in. soft steel with the opening 6 in. deep and 5 in. high and are bolted to a block of wood, 2 in. thick, 6 in. wide and 12 in. long. The skate runner is adjusted to the proper height by 1/2-in.. set and thumbscrews. The block of wood holding the clamp and skate can be pushed along on the emery-wheel table in front of the revolving wheel.

If properly adjusted, a slight concave or hollow can be made full length of the runner, true and uniform which will hold on the ice sideways and not retard the forward movement.

Contributed by Geo. A. Howe, Tarrytown, New York.

How to Make a Bicycle Coasting Sled

The accompanying drawing and sketch illustrate a new type of coasting sled built on the bicycle principle. This coaster is simple and easy to make, says Scientific American. It is constructed of a good quality of pine. The pieces marked S are single, and should be about 1 by 1-1/2 in.; the pieces marked D are double or in duplicate, and should be 1/2 by 1-1/2 in. The runners are shod with iron and are pivoted to the uprights as shown, double pieces being secured to the uprights to make a fork. The seat is a board, to the underside of which is a block, which drops down between the two top slats and is secured with a pin. A footrest is provided consisting of a short crosspiece secured to the front of the frame and resting on the two lower slats. The frame and front fork are hinged together with four short eyebolts, E, with a short bolt through each pair as shown.

Spelling Names with Photo Letters

There are, no doubt, many amateur photographers who make only occasional trips afield or through the more traveled thoroughfares with their cameras during the winter months. Each one is generally interested in working up the negatives that he or she made during the summer or on that last vacation into souvenir post cards, albums and the like, for sending to friends. Illustrated herewith is something different from the album or photographic calendar. The letters forming part of the word POPULAR are good examples of this work.

The masks which outline the letters are cut from the black paper in which plates come packed. Their size depends on the plate used. A sharp knife, a smooth board and a straightedge are all the tools needed, says Camera Craft. If the letters are all cut the same height, they will look remarkably uniform, even if one is not skilled in the work of forming them all in accordance with the rules. Be sure to have the prints a little larger than the letters to insure a sufficient margin in trimming, so as to have a white margin around the finished letters. The best method is to use a good pair of scissors or a sharp knife.

Many combinations can be made of these letter pictures to spell out the recipient's name or the season's greeting. During the holidays the letters may be made from winter scenes to spell "A Merry Christmas" or "A Happy New Year." An Easter greeting may have more spring-like subjects and a birthday remembrance a fitting month. The prints are no more difficult to make than the ordinary kind. In cutting out an 0, for example, do not forget to cut out a piece to correspond to the center. This piece can be placed on the printing paper after the outline mask has been laid down, using care to get it in the right position, and closing the frame carefully so that the small piece will not be disturbed. The letters should be of the kind to give as large an area of surface to have as much of the picture show as possible. What the printer calls black face letters are the most suitable.

By cutting the letters out of black paper in a solid form, and using these as a mask for a second printing after printing the full size of the negatives, these letter pictures can be made with a black border. So made, they can be trimmed to a uniform black line all around; and, mounted on a white card and photographed down to post card size, the greeting so spelled out makes a most unique souvenir. Another application of the letters in copying is to paste them on a white card as before, trim the card even with the bottoms of the letters, stand the strip of card on a mirror laid flat on a table, and then photograph both the letters and their reflections so as to nicely fill a post card. Still another suggestion is to cut out the letters, after, pasting the prints on some thin card, and then arrange them in the desired order to spell out the name or greeting, but with flowers interspersed and forming a background, photographing them down to the desired size. A third means of securing a novel effect by photographing down an arrangement of the letters is to have them cut out in stiff form as in the last method; mount them on short pieces of corks, in turn fastened to a white card forming the background. So arranged, the letters will stand out from the card about 1/2 in. If they are now placed in a light falling from the side and slightly in front, each letter will cast a shadow upon the background, and in the finished print the letters will look as if suspended in the air in front of the surface of the card.

Holding a Loose Screw

A piece of sheet lead put on each side of a screw will fill up and hold the threads in a too large hole.

A Checker Board Puzzle

Place eight checker men upon the checker board as shown in the first row in the sketch. The puzzle is to get them in four piles of two men each without omitting to jump over two checker men every time a move is made.

The first move is to jump 5 over 4 and 3 on 2 which is shown in the second row, then jump 3 over 4 and 6 on 7 and the positions will appear as shown in the third row; jump 1 over 2 and 5 on 4 to get the men placed like the fourth row and the last move is to jump 8 over 3 and 7 on 6 which will make the four piles of two men each as shown in the fifth row.

Contributed by I. G. Bayley, Cape May Point, N.J.

A Home-Made Rabbit Trap

A good serviceable rabbit trap can be made by sinking a common dry goods box in the ground to within 6 in. of its top. A hole 6 or 7 in. square is cut in each end level with the earth's surface and boxes 18 in. long that will just fit are set in, hung on pivots, with the longest end outside, so they will lie horizontal. A rabbit may now look through the two tubes, says the American Thresherman. The bait is hung on a string from the top of the large box so that it may be seen and smelled from the outside. The rabbit naturally goes into the holes and in this trap there is nothing to awaken his suspicion. He smells the bait, squeezes along past the center of the tube, when it tilts down and the game is shot into the pit, the tube righting itself at once for another catch. The top and sides of the large box may be covered with leaves, snow or anything to hide it. A door placed in the top will enable the trapper to take out the animals. By placing a little hay or other food in the bottom of the box the trap need not be visited oftener than once a week.

Old-Time Magic

Changing a Button into a Coin

Place a button in the palm of the left hand, then place a coin between the second and third fingers of the right hand. Keep the right hand faced down and the left hand faced up, so as to conceal the coin and expose the button. With a quick motion bring the left hand under the right, stop quick and the button will go up the right-hand coat sleeve. Press the hands together, allowing the coin to drop into the left hand, then expose again, or rub the hands a little before doing so, saying that you are rubbing a button into a coin.

Contributed by L. E. Parker, Pocatello, Idaho.

Buttonhole Trick

This trick is performed with a small stick having a loop attached that is too small for the stick to pass through. Spread out the string and place it each side of the buttonhole, then draw the cloth around the hole through the string until it is far enough to pass the stick through the hole. Pull back the cloth and you have the string looped in the hole with a hitch the same as if the stick had been passed through the string.

The stick may be removed by pulling up the loop as if you were passing the stick through it, putting the stick in the hole and leaving the string on the outside, then spread the string, pulling up the cloth and passing the stick through the hole as before.

Contributed by Charles Graham, Pawtucket, Rhode Island.

How to Remove Paper from Stamps

Old stamps as they are purchased usually have a part of the envelope from which they are taken sticking to them and in removing this paper many valuable stamps are torn or ruined. Place all the stamps that are stuck to pieces of envelopes in hot water and in a short time they can be separated without injury. Dry the stamps between two white blotters. Stamps removed in this way will have a much better appearance when placed in an album.

Contributed by L. Szerlip, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Imitation Arms and Armor Part I

Fig.1 Fig.2 Fig.3 Fig.4

Genuine antique swords and armor, as used by the knights and soldiers in the days of old, are very expensive and at the present time practically impossible to obtain. The accompanying illustration shows four designs of swords that anyone can make, and if carefully made, they will look very much like the genuine article.

The drawings are so plain that the amateur armorer should have very little difficulty, if any, in building up his work from the illustrations, whether he requires a single sword only, or a complete suit of armor, full size.

The pieces or designs in this article are from authentic sources, says the English Mechanic, so that where names are given the amateur can so label them, and will thereby greatly add to their interest and value.

An executioners' sword of the fifteenth century is shown in Fig. 1. The blade should be about 27 in. long with a handle of sufficient length to be grasped by both hands. The width of the blade near the handle is about 2-1/2 in., tapering down to 1-1/2 in. near the point end. Several ridges are cut around the handle to permit a firm grip. The cross guard is flat and about 1 in. in width.

Mark out the shape and size of the blade on a piece of wood 1/8 in. thick, using a straightedge and a pencil, and allowing a few inches more in length on which to fasten the handle. Cut out the wood with a scroll saw or a keyhole saw, trim the edges down thin and smooth both surfaces with fine sandpaper. The end for the handle is cut about 1 in. wide and 2 in. long. The cross guard is cut out and a hole made in the center through which to pass the handle end of the blade. The handle is next made, and if the amateur does not possess a lathe on which to turn the shape of the handle, the ridges around the wood may be imitated by gluing and tacking on pieces of small rope. The handle is then mortised to receive the 1 by 2-in. end of the blade. The cross guard is now glued and placed on the blade, then the hole in the handle is well glued with glue that is not too thick and quite hot. The blade with the cross guard is inserted in the handle and allowed to set. When the glue is thoroughly dry, remove the surplus with a sharp knife and paint the handle with brown, dark red, or green oil paint. The blade is covered with tinfoil to give it the appearance of steel. Secure some pieces of tinfoil and cut one strip 1/2 in. wider than the blade and the other 1/4 in. narrower. Quickly paint the blade well with thin glue on one side., then lay evenly and press on the narrow strip of tinfoil. Glue the other side of the blade, put on the wider strip of tinfoil and glue the overlapping edge and press it around and on the surface of the narrow strip. The cross guard must be covered with tinfoil in the same manner as the blade. When the whole is quite dry, wipe the blade with light strokes up and down several times, using a soft and dry piece of cloth. The sword is then ready to hang in its chosen place as a decoration, not for use only in cases of tableaux, for which this article will be especially useful to those who are arranging living pictures wherein swords and armor are part of the paraphernalia.

A Chinese scimitar is shown in Fig. 2. The handle of this sword is oval and covered with plaited cord. In making this scimitar, follow the directions as for Fig. 1, except that the handle has to be covered with a round black cord. If it is found difficult to plait the cord on the handle as in the illustration, wind it around in a continuous line closely together, and finish by fastening with a little glue and a small tack driven through the cord into the handle. The pommel is a circular piece of wood, 1/8 in. thick and 5 in. in diameter. The length of the handle, allowing for a good hold with both hands, should be about 9 in., the length of the blade 28 in., the width near the pommel 1-1/2 in. and 3 in. in the widest part at the lower end. The sharp or cutting edge is only on the short side, the other is flat or half-round.

A Turkish sabre of ancient manufacture from Constantinople is shown in Fig. 3. The handle is painted a dull creamy white in imitation of ivory. The enamel paint sold in small tins will answer well for this purpose. The cross guard and blade are covered as described in Fig. 1. The sharp edge is on the longer curved side, the other is flat or half-round.

A two-handed sword used in the 14th and 15th centuries is shown in Fig. 4. This sword is about 68 in. long, has a cross guard and blade of steel with a round wood handle painted black. The ball or pommel on top of the handle is steel. Both edges of the blade are sharp. This sword is made in wood the same as described for Fig. 1.

A Dovetail Joint Puzzle

A simple but very ingenious example in joinery is illustrated. In the finished piece, Fig. 1, the dovetail appears on each side of the square stick of wood, the illustration, of course, shows only two sides, the other two are identical. The joint is separable and each part is solid and of one piece. In making, take two pieces of wood, preferably of contrasting colors, such as cherry and walnut or mahogany and boxwood, about 1-1/2 in. square and of any length desired. Cut the dovetail on one end of each stick as shown in Fig. 2, drive together and then plane off the triangular corners marked A. The end of each piece after the dovetails are cut appear as shown in Fig. 3, the lines marking the path of the dovetail through the stick.

Radiator Water

Pure rain water is the best to use in a cooling system of an automobile engine, as it is free from the mineral substances which are deposited in the radiator, piping and jackets by hard water.

Springboard for Swimmers

A good springboard adds much to the fun of swimming. The boards are generally made so that the plank will bend, being dressed down thin at one end and fastened. The thinness of the plank, or an insecure fastening, causes many a plank to snap in two or come loose from its fastenings in a short time.

The accompanying sketch shows the method of constructing a springboard that does not depend upon the bending of the wood for its spring. It is made of a plank, 2 in. thick and from 14 to 16 ft. long, one end of which is secured with a hinge arrangement having a U-shaped rod whose ends are held with nuts. On each edge of the board, at the lower end, are fastened two pieces of strap iron, each about 1 ft. long and with the lower ends drilled to fit the horizontal of the U-shaped rod.

Secure a pair of light buggy springs from a discarded rig and attach them to the ends of a square bar of iron having a length equal to the width of the plank. Fasten this to the plank with bolts, as shown in the sketch. Should the springs be too high they can be moved forward.

Contributed by John Blake, Franklin, Mass.

Taking Button from a Child's Nostril

A three-year-old child snuffed a button up its nostril and the mother, in an attempt to remove it, had caused the button to be pushed farther up the channel. Doctors probed for the button without success. The distracted mother happened to think of snuff, and, as there was some at hand, took a pinch of snuff between the thumb and forefinger and held it close to the child's nose. The violent sneezing caused the button to be blown out. Such an accident may come under the observation of any parent, and if so, this method can be used to relieve the child when medical assistance is not at hand.

Contributed by Katharine D. Morse, Syracuse, N. Y.

Brass Frame in Repoussé

Punches can be purchased, as can the pitch bed or block. Both can be made easily, however. Several punches of different sizes and shapes will be needed. A piece of mild steel, about 3/8 in. square, can be easily worked into tools shaped as desired. A cold chisel will be needed to cut the metal to length; a file to reduce the ends to shape, and a piece of emery paper to smooth and polish the end of the tool so that it will not scar the metal.

A small metal box must be secured to hold the pitch. The illustration shows an iron receptacle. The pitch is prepared by heating the following materials in these proportions: pitch, 5 lb.; plaster of Paris, 5 lb.; tallow, 1/2 lb. To put it in another way, use pitch and plaster in equal parts with 1/10 part tallow. See that the pitch and plaster are dry so that the moisture will not cause the pitch to boil over. Keep stirring the mass so that it never boils. Melt the pitch first and add the plaster by degrees.

For a piece of repoussé such as the frame shown, secure a piece of brass of about No. 18 gauge. With carbon paper trace the design on the brass. Place the metal on the pitch bed and work over the outline of the design. Use the chisel-edged tool and try to make the lines continuous. When this has been done, heat the pitch slightly and place the metal, design down, on the pitch, and with the raising punches work up the shape as desired after the pitch has hardened. When the desired form has been obtained, turn the metal over and "touch up" any places improperly raised. The metal will probably be warped somewhat. To remedy this, place a board on the metal and pound until the metal assumes a flat shape again. Next drill a hole in the center waste and saw out for the opening, using a small metal saw. Trim up the edges and file them smooth.

Clean the metal thoroughly, using powdered pumice with lye. Cotton batting fastened to the end of a stick will make a good brush. Upon the cleansed metal put a lacquer to prevent tarnishing. Metal clips may be soldered to the back to hold the picture in place and also a metal strip to hold the frame upright. These should be placed before the metal is lacquered.

Finding the Horsepower of Small Motors

A small motor often excites curiosity as to its true horsepower, or fraction of a horsepower. Guesses in this direction vary remarkably for the same motor or engine. It is comparatively easy to determine the horsepower put out by almost any machine by the following method which is intended for small battery motors and small steam engines.

Before giving the description, it may be well to know what horsepower means. Horsepower is the rate of work and a unit is equal to 33,000 ft. lb. per minute, or 550 ft. lb. per second. That is lifting 33,000 lb. 1 ft. in one minute or 550 lb. 1 ft. in one second. This may be applied to the problem of finding the horsepower of a motor by fastening a piece of twine about 25 ft. long to the shaft of the engine or motor to be tested in such a way that when the shaft revolves it will wind up the string similar to a windlass. Place the motor in such a position that the twine will hang freely without touching anything: out of a high window will do. Fasten a weight to the other end of the line as heavy as the motor or engine can lift and still run. It must weigh enough to slow the power down a little, but not to stop it. Mark the position of the weight and start the motor, at the same time accurately measuring time in minutes and seconds it takes to lift the weight from the lowest point to the highest. Next measure accurately the distance in feet covered by the weight in its ascent and obtain the correct weight in pounds of the weight.

Multiply the weight by the distance covered and divide the result by the number of minutes or fraction of a minute obtained and divide this last result by 33,000 and the quotient will be the horsepower of the motor or engine.

Perhaps an illustration will make this solution much plainer. Suppose the motor will lift a weight of 1 lb. and still revolve, 30 ft. in 10 seconds or 1/6 of a minute. Multiplying 1 by 30 we get 30, which divided by 1/6 gives 180. This in turn divided by 33,000 equals in round numbers 1/200 part of a horsepower.

Contributed by Harold H. Cutter.

Illusion for Window Attraction

18 in. Diameter
Fig. 1 12 in. Diameter
Fig. 2

Fig. 3 Fig. 4

Birds and Fish Apparently Together

Gold fish and canary birds, living together in what seems like one receptacle, make an unusual show window attraction. Secure two glass vessels having straight sides of the same height, one 18 in. in diameter (Fig. 1) and the other 12 in. in diameter (Fig. 2). The smaller is placed within the larger, the bottoms being covered with moss and aquarium decorations which can be purchased at a bird store. Fill the 3-in. space between the vessels with water. Cut a piece of galvanized screen into circular form to cover the larger vessel, and hang a bird swing, A, Fig. 3, in the center. Place the screen on top of the vessels so that the swing will hang in the center of the inner vessel. A weight—a box filled with sand will do—should be placed on top of the screen, over the smaller vessel, to keep it from floating. Moss should be put over the top of the screen so that the two separate vessels can not be seen. Place the birds in the inner vessel and the fish in the water. The effect is surprising. To complete the effect and aid the illusion the vessels can be set in a box lined with black velvet, or on a pedestal.

Contributed by J. F. Campbell, Somerville, Mass.

Cleaner for White Shoes

Finely ground whiting mixed with water to the consistency of paste makes a very good coating for white shoes. A brush can be used in applying the mixture which will dry in a few minutes. It is best to mix only as much paste as required for immediate use.

Contributed by L. Szerlip, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Crossing Belt Laces

Belt laces should never cross on the side next to the pulley as they will cut themselves in two.

How to Make a Candlestick Holder

A candlestick of very simple construction and design can be made as follows: Secure a piece of brass or copper of No. 23 gauge of a size sufficient to make the pieces detailed in the accompanying sketch. A riveting hammer and a pair of pliers will be needed, also a pair of tin shears and a piece of metal upon which to rivet. Cut out a piece of metal for the base to a size of 5-1/2 by 5-1/2 in. Trim the sharp corners off slightly. Draw a pencil line all around the margin and 5/8 in. away from the edge. With the pliers shape the sides as shown in the illustration.

Next lay out the holding cup according to the plan of development shown, and cut out the shape with the shears. Polish both of these pieces, using any of the common metal polishes. Rivet the cup to the base, and then, with the pliers, shape the sides as shown in the photograph. The manner of making and fastening the handle is clearly illustrated. Use a file to smooth all the cut edges so that they will not injure the hands.

In riveting, care should be taken to round up the heads of the rivets nicely as a good mechanic would. Do not be content merely to bend them over. This rounding is easily accomplished by striking around the rivets' outer circumference, keeping the center high.

A good lacquer should be applied after the parts have been properly cleaned and polished, to keep the metal from tarnishing.

A Home-Made Duplicator

The usual gelatine pad, which is the principal part of the average hectograph or duplicator, is, as a rule, unsatisfactory, as it is apt to sour and mold in the summer and freeze in the winter, which, with other defects, often render it useless after a few months service.

A compound that is almost indestructible is the preparation sold at art stores as modeling clay. This clay is as easily worked as a putty and is spread into the tray, which may be of wood or tin, and the surface leveled by pounding with a mallet or hammer, then by drawing a straightedge over it.

The surface of the pad is now saturated with pure glycerine. This is poured upon the surface after it is slightly warmed, covering the same and then laying a cloth over the pad and allowing it to stand long enough for the clay to absorb the glycerine, after which it is ready for use.

The original copy is written with a copying pencil or typewritten through a hectograph ribbon. A sheet of newspaper is laid upon the pad and a round stick or pencil is passed over it to make the surface level and smooth. Remove the newspaper and place the original copy face down on the leveled surface and smooth it out in the same way so that every part touches the pad. Remove the copy in about five minutes and place the clean sheets of paper one after another on the surface and remove them. From 50 to 75 copies of the original can be made in a short time.

This compound is impervious to water, so the negative print is removed by simply washing with a damp sponge, the same as removing writing from a slate. This makes it possible to place another original on the pad immediately without waiting for the ink to vanish by chemical action as in the original hectograph.

The action of the weather has no effect upon this compound and it is proof against accident, for the tray may be dropped and the pad dented or cut into pieces, and the clay can be pressed back and leveled. The only caution is to keep it covered with a cloth saturated in glycerine while not in use.

Contributed by A. A. Houghton, Northville, Mich.

Paper-Clip Bookmark

The combination of a paper clip and a calling card makes a good bookmark. The clip and card can be kept together by piercing the card and bending the ends of the wire to stick through the holes. The clip is attached to a page as shown in the sketch.

Contributed by Thos. DeLoof, Grand Rapids, Mich.

Aerating Water in a Small Tank

Fig.1 Fig.2
Forcing Air Through Water

A simple way of producing air pressure sufficient to aerate water is by the use of a siphon as shown in Fig. 1. The siphon is made of glass tubes, the longer pieces being bent on one end as shown. The air receiver and regulating device are attached to the top end of the lower tube, as shown in Fig. 2. The receiver or air inlet is the most important part. It is made of a glass tube, 3/4 in. in diameter and 5 in. long. A hole is filed or blown through one side of the glass for the admission of air. The ends of the smaller glass tubes are passed through corks having a diameter to fit the ends of this larger tube. The ends of these tubes should be so adjusted that the continuous drops of water from the upper will fall into the tube below. The succession of air bubbles thus imprisoned are driven down the tube and into the tank below.

The regulator is placed in the tube or siphon above the air receiver. Its purpose is to retard the flow of water from the siphon above and make it drop rapidly. It consists of a rubber connecting tube with two flat pieces of wood clamped over the center and adjusted with screws. The apparatus is started by clamping the rubber tube tightly and then exhausting the air in the siphon tube, then placing the end in the upper reservoir and releasing the clamp until the water begins to drop. If the reservoir is kept filled from the tank, the device will work for an indefinite time.

Contributed by John T. Dunlop, Shettleston, Scotland.

Imitation Arms and Armor-Part II

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3
Three Fifteenth Century Swords

Imitation swords, stilettos and battle-axes, put up as ornaments, will look well if they are arranged on a shield which is hung high up on a wall of a room or hall, says the English Mechanic, London. The following described arms are authentic designs of the original articles. A German sword of the fifteenth century is shown in Fig. 1. This sword is 4 ft. long with the crossguard and blade of steel. The imitation sword is made of wood and covered with tinfoil to produce the steel color. The shape of the sword is marked out on a piece of wood that is about 1/8 in. thick with the aid of a straightedge and pencil, allowing a little extra length on which to fasten the handle. Cut the sword out with a saw and make both edges thin like a knife blade and smooth up with sandpaper. The extra length for the handle is cut about 1 in. in width and 2 in. long. The handle is next carved and a mortise cut in one end to receive the handle end of the blade. As the handle is to represent copper, the ornamentations can be built up of wire, string, small rope and round-headed nails, the whole finally having a thin coat of glue worked over it with a stiff bristle brush and finished with bronze paint.

The crossbar is flat and about 1 in. in width. Cut this out of a piece of wood and make a center hole to fit over the extra length on the blade, glue and put it in place. Fill the hole in the handle with glue and put it on the blade. When the glue is thoroughly dry, remove all the surplus with a sharp knife. Sheets of tinfoil are secured for covering the blade. Cut two strips of tinfoil, one about 1/2 in. wider than the blade and the other 1/4 in. narrower. Quickly cover one side of the blade with a thin coat of glue and evenly lay on and press down the narrow strip of tinfoil. Stick the wider strip on the other side in the same way, allowing equal margin of tinfoil to overlap the edges of the blade. Glue the overlapping edges and press them around on the surface of the narrow strip. The crossguard must be covered in the same manner as the blade. When the whole is quite dry, wipe the blade up and down several times with light strokes using a soft rag.

The sword shown in Fig. 2 is a two-handed Swiss sword about 4 ft. in length, sharp on both edges with a handle of dark wood around which is wound spirally a heavy piece of brass or copper wire and held in place with round-headed brass nails. The blade and crossbar are in imitation steel. The projecting ornament in the center of the crossguard may be cut from heavy pasteboard and bent into shape, then glued on the blade as shown.

In Fig. 3 is shown a claymore, or Scottish sword of the fifteenth century. This sword is about 4 ft. long and has a wood handle bound closely around with heavy cord. The crossbar and blade are steel, with both edges sharp. A German poniard is shown in Fig. 4. This weapon is about 1 ft. long, very broad, with wire or string' bound handle, sharp edges on both sides. Another poniard of the fourteenth century is shown in Fig. 5. This weapon is also about 1 ft. long with wood handle and steel embossed blade. A sixteenth century German poniard is shown in Fig. 6. The blade and ornamental crossbar is of steel, with both edges of the blade sharp. The handle is of wood. A German stiletto, sometimes called cuirass breakers, is shown in Fig. 7. This stiletto has a wood handle, steel crossbar and blade of steel with both edges sharp.

In Fig. 8 is shown a short-handled flail, which is about 2-1/2 ft. long with a dark handle of wood, studded with brass or steel nails. A steel band is placed around the handle near the top. The imitation of the steel band is made by gluing a piece of tinfoil on a strip of cardboard and tacking it to the handle. A large screw-eye is screwed into the top of the handle. The spiked ball may be made of wood or clay. Cover the ball with some pieces of linen, firmly glued on. When dry, paint it a dark brown or black. A large screw-eye must be inserted in this ball, the same as used on the end of the handle, and both eyes connected with a small piece of rope twisted into shape. The rope is finished by covering with tinfoil. Some short and heavy spike-headed nails are driven into the ball to give it the appearance shown in the illustration.

A Russian knout is shown in Fig. 9. The lower half of the handle is of wood, the upper part iron or steel, which can be imitated by covering a piece of wood that is properly shaped with tinfoil. The whole handle can be made of wood in one piece, the lower part painted black and the upper part covered with tinfoil. A screw-eye is screwed into the upper end. A length of real iron or steel chain is used to connect the handle with the ball. The ball is made as described in Fig. 8. The spikes in the ball are about 1 in. in length. These must be cut from pieces of wood, leaving a small peg at the end and in the center about the size of a No. 20 spike. The pegs are glued and inserted into holes drilled into the ball.

In Fig. 10 is shown a Sclavonic horseman's battle-axe which has a handle of wood painted dark gray or light brown; the axe is of steel. The blade is cut from a piece of 1/4-in. wood with a keyhole saw. The round part is made thin and sharp on the edge. The thick hammer side of the axe is built up to the necessary thickness to cover the handle by gluing on pieces of wood the same thickness as used for the blade, and gradually shaping off to the middle of the axe by the use of a chisel, finishing with sandpaper and covering with tinfoil. Three large, round-headed brass or iron nails fixed into the front side of the handle will complete the axe.

At the beginning of the sixteenth century horseman's battle-axes shaped as shown in Fig. 11 were used. Both handle and axe are of steel. This axe is made similar to the one described in Fig. 10. When the woodwork is finished the handle and axe are covered with tinfoil.

How to Make a Round Belt Without Ends

A very good belt may be made by laying several strands of strong cord, such as braided fishline, together as shown in Fig. 1 and wrapping them as shown in Fig. 2. When wrapped all the way around, the ends are tied and cut off. This will make a very good flexible belt; will pull where other belts slip, and as the tension members are all protected from wear, will last until the wrapping member is worn through without being weakened.

Contributed by E. W. Davis, Chicago.

Old-Time Magic

The Growing Flower

This trick is performed with a wide-mouthed jar which is about 10 in. high. If an earthern jar of this kind is not at hand, use a glass fruit jar and cover it with black cloth or paper, so the contents cannot be seen. Two pieces of wire are bent as shown in Fig. 1 and put together as in Fig. 2. These wires are put in the jar, about one-third the way down from the top, with the circle centrally located. The wires can be held in place by carefully bending the ends, or using small wedges of wood.

Cut a wire shorter in length than the height of the jar and tie a rose or several flowers on one end. Put a cork in the bottom of the jar and stick the opposite end of the wire from where the flowers are tied through the circle of the two wires and into the cork. The dotted lines in Fig. 3 show the position of the wires and flowers.

To make the flowers grow in an instant, pour water into the jar at one side of the wide mouth. The cork will float and carry the wire with the flowers attached upward, causing the flowers to grow, apparently, in a few seconds' time. Do not pour in too much water to raise the flowers so far that the wire will be seen.

Contributed by A. S. Macdonald, Oakland, Calif.

Water and Wine Trick

This is an interesting trick based on the chemical properties of acids and alkalies. The materials needed are: One glass pitcher, filled with water, four glass tumblers, an acid, an alkali and some phenolphthalein solution which can be obtained from your local druggist. Before the performance, add a few drops of the phenolphthalein to the water in the pitcher and rub a small quantity of the alkali solution on the sides of two of the tumblers and repeat, only using as large a quantity of the acid as will escape notice on the remaining tumblers. Set the tumblers so you will know which is which and proceed as follows: Take hold of a prepared tumbler with the left hand and pour from the pitcher, held in the right hand, some of the liquid. The liquid turned into the glass will become red like wine. Set this full tumbler aside and take the pitcher in the left hand and pour some of the liquid in one of the tumblers containing the acid as it is held in the right hand. There will be no change in color. Repeat both parts in the same order then begin to pour the liquids contained in the tumblers back into the pitcher in the order reversed and the excess of acid will neutralize the alkali and cause it to lose its color and in the end the pitcher will contain a colorless liquid.

Contributed by Kenneth Weeks, Bridgeton, N.J.

Cheap Nails are Expensive

The life of iron shingle nails is about 6 years. An iron nail cannot be used again in putting on a new roof. Solid zinc nails last forever and can be used as often as necessary. As zinc is much lighter than iron, the cost of zinc nails is only about 2-1/2 times that of iron nails.

Cutting Lantern Slide Masks

Form for Marking Out Rectangular Lantern Slide Masks

It has long been a puzzle to me why round cornered masks are almost invariably used for lantern slides, when most works of art are included within rectangular spaces, says a correspondent of Photo Era. Certainly the present commercial masks are in very poor taste. The worker who wishes to make the most of every slide will do well to cut his own masks, not only because of the fact just mentioned, but also because he can suit the size of the opening to the requirements of each slide. Slides can be works of art just as much as prints; so that masking a slide becomes just as important as trimming a print, and equally worthy of individual treatment. It is folly to give each slide a mask opening of uniform size and shape.

When many slides are to be masked, it becomes tedious work to treat each one separately, unless some special device is used. The accompanying drawing shows a way to mark masks which is simple, practical and costs nothing. The drawing is exactly lantern slide size.

Lay the slide over such a guide and note the size of the opening best suited to the picture. This will be determined by the intersection of the ruled lines, which are numbered for convenience in working. If the size wanted is No. 4 for width and No. 2 for height, place the guide over a piece of black mask paper and prick through the proper intersections with the point of a pin. This outlines the desired opening, which may then be cut out easily with a knife and straight edge.

The black paper from plate boxes and film rolls is excellent for making masks. It should be cut up in pieces 3-1/4 by 4 in. and kept ready for use at any time.

Relieving the Weight of a Talking Machine Reproducer

Too loud reproduction from a record, the scratching noise sometimes heard and the forcing of the needle into a soft record, because the extension arm and reproducer are too heavy, can be remedied in the following manner: Attach a small ring to the under side of the horn and use a rubber band to lift the extending arm slightly.

Contributed by W. A. Jaquythe, Richmond, Cal.

How to Make a Thermometer Back in Etched Copper

Etching copper is not a very difficult process. Secure a sheet of No. 16 gauge copper of the width and length wanted for the back of the thermometer. In the design shown the extreme width is 3-1/2 in. and the extreme length 7 in.

Draw a design. The one shown is merely suggestive. The worker may change the outline or proportions as desired. The decoration, too, may be changed. The essential thing is to keep a space upon which to place the thermometer. This design is in what is known as two-part symmetry. A line is drawn down the paper and one-half of the outline and decoration worked out. This done, the paper is folded along the center line, a piece of carbon paper is inserted between the folds and the design transferred on the inner surfaces by tracing with a pencil over the half of the outline previously drawn. Trace the design and outline upon the metal, using the carbon paper.

Cut out the outline with metal shears and file the edges smooth.

With a small brush and ordinary asphaltum or black varnish, paint the design, the margin and the entire back of the metal. When this coat has dried put on a second and then a third. The asphaltum is to keep the acid into which the metal is to be immersed later from eating any part of the metal but the background. Two coats or more are needed to withstand the action of the acid.

The acid bath is composed of nitric acid and water, about half and half, or, possibly, a little less acid than water, the mixture being made by pouring the acid into the water, not the water into the acid, which is dangerous. Keep this solution off the hands and clothes, and do not inhale the fumes.

Put the asphalt-coated metal in the bath and allow it to remain for four or five hours, depending upon the thickness of the metal and the strength of the acid. With a stick, or a pair of old tongs, take the metal out of the acid occasionally and examine it to see how deep the acid has eaten it—1/32 in. is about right for the No. 16 gauge.

When etched to the desired depth, remove the piece and with an old knife' scrape off the asphaltum. Finish the cleaning by scrubbing with turpentine and a brush having stiff bristles.

If the metal is first covered with turpentine and then heated over a flame, all the colors of the rainbow will appear on its surface. These colors fade away in the course of a long time, but they can be easily revived. Another way to get these colors is to heat the metal and then plunge it into the acid bath quickly.

A green finish is obtained by painting the background with an acid stain composed as follows: 1 part ammonia muriate; 3 parts ammonia carbonate; 24 parts water. If one coat does not give the depth of color desired, repeat as many times as is necessary, allowing each coat time to dry before applying the next.

To "fix" this color so that it will not rub off, and to keep the metal from tarnishing, apply a coat of banana oil or lacquer.

Thermometers of suitable size can be bought in either brass or nickel. They have holes through their top and bottom ends through which metal paper fasteners can be inserted, and these in turn put through holes punched in the copper back.

To Make an Electric Piano

Make or buy a table, about 3 ft. long and 1 ft. or more wide, and about 2-1/2 ft. high. Nail a board, A, Fig. 1, about 8 in. wide and of the same length as the table, to the table, as shown in the illustration. Paint the table any color desired.

Purchase a dozen or so battery electric bells (they are cheaper if bought by the dozen) and screw them to the board, as in Fig. 2. Arrange the bells in the scale shown at B, Fig. 2. Bore two holes near the posts of each bell for the wires to pass through.

Buttons for the bells may be purchased, but it is cheaper to make them in the following way: Take a piece of wood and cut it round, about 2-1/2 in. in diameter and 1/4 in. thick, Fig. 3, and bore two holes, C and D, through it. Then get two posts, about 1 in. long, (battery posts will do) and put them through the holes as in Fig. 4. Cut out a piece of tin, 3/8 in. wide, punch a hole through it and put in under post E, so that when it is pressed down, it will touch post F. It may be either nailed or screwed down.

Make two holes in the table for each button and its wires, as at H, Fig. 2. Nail or screw the buttons to the table, as shown in Fig. 5, with the wires underneath. The connections are simple: I, Fig. 5, is a wire running from one end of the table to the other end, attached to a post at each end; J is another wire attached in the same way; L is the carbon wire running from the batteries to I; M is the zinc wire running from the batteries to wire J; 0 indicates the batteries; P is a wire running from J to one post of a button; Q is another wire running from the other post of the button to one of the posts of the bell; R is a wire running from I to one post of the bell. When the button S is pressed, the bell will ring. Each button should be connected with its bell in the same way.

Contributed by Vincent de Ybarrondo.

Imitation Arms and Armor—Part III

Maces and battle-axes patterned after and made in imitation of the ancient weapons which were used from the fourteenth to the sixteenth century produce fine ornaments for the hall or den, says the English Mechanic. The imitation articles are made of wood, the steel parts represented by tinfoil stuck on with glue and the ornaments carved out with a carving tool.

An English mace used about the middle of the fifteenth century is shown in Fig. 1. The entire length of this weapon is about 24 in.; the handle is round with a four-sided sharp spike extending out from the points of six triangular shaped wings. Cut the handle and spike from one piece of wood and glue the wings on at equal distances apart around the base of the spike. The two bands or wings can be made by gluing two pieces of rope around the handle and fastening it with tacks. These rings can be carved out, but they are somewhat difficult to make. After the glue is dry, remove all the surplus that has been pressed out from the joints with the point of a sharp knife blade and then sandpaper the surface of the wood to make it smooth. Secure some tinfoil to cover the parts in imitation of steel. A thin coat of glue is quickly applied to the surface of the wood and the tinfoil laid on evenly so there will be no wrinkles and without making any more seams than is necessary. The entire weapon, handle and all, is to appear as steel.

An engraved iron mace of the fifteenth century is shown in Fig. 2. This weapon is about 22 in. long, mounted with an eight-sided or octagonal head. It will be easier to make this mace in three pieces, the octagonal head in one piece and the handle in two parts, so that the circular shield shown at the lower end of the handle can be easily placed between the parts. The circular piece or shield can be cut from a piece of wood about 1/4 in. thick. The circle is marked out with a compass. A hole is made through the center for the dowel of the two handle parts when they are put together. A wood peg about 2 in. long serves as the dowel. A hole is bored in the end of both handle pieces and these holes well coated with glue, the wood peg inserted in one of them, the shield put on in place and handle parts put together and left for the glue to set. The head is fastened on the end of the handle with a dowel in the same manner as putting the handle parts together.

The head must have a pattern sketched upon each side in pencil marks, such as ornamental scrolls, leaves, flowers, etc. These ornaments must be carved out to a depth of about 1/4 in. with a sharp carving tool. If such a tool is not at hand, or the amateur cannot use it well, an excellent substitute will be found in using a sharp-pointed and red-hot poker, or pieces of heavy wire heated to burn out the pattern to the desired depth. The handle also has a scroll to be engraved. When the whole is finished and cleaned Up, it is covered with tinfoil in imitation of steel. The tinfoil should be applied carefully, as before mentioned, and firmly pressed into the engraved parts with the finger tips or thumb.

A French mace used in the sixteenth century is shown in Fig. 3. This weapon is about 22 in. long and has a wood handle covered with dark red cloth or velvet, the lower part to have a gold or red silk cord wound around it, as shown, the whole handle finished off with small brass-headed nails. The top has six ornamental carved wings which are cut out, fastened on the handle and covered with tinfoil, as described in Fig. 2.

Figure 4 shows a Morning Star which is about 26 in. long. The spiked ball and the four-sided and sharp-pointed spike are of steel. The ball may be made of clay or wood and covered with tinfoil. The spikes are cut out of wood, sharp-pointed and cone-shaped, the base having a brad to stick into the ball. The wood spikes are also covered with tinfoil. The handle is of steel imitation, covered in the middle with red cloth or velvet and studded with large-headed steel nails.

A war hammer of the fifteenth century is shown in Fig. 5. Its length is about 3 ft. The lower half of the handle is wood. covered with red velvet, with a golden or yellow cord wound spirally over the cloth. The upper half of the handle is steel, also, the hammer and spike. The entire handle should be made of one piece, then the hammer put on the base of the spike. The spike made with a peg in its lower end and well glued, can be firmly placed in position by the peg fitting in a hole made for its reception in the top of the handle. Finish up the steel parts with tinfoil.

The following described weapons can be constructed of the same materials and built up in the same way as described in the foregoing articles: A horseman's short-handled battle-axe, used at the end of the fifteenth century, is shown in Fig. 6. The handle is of wood and the axe in imitation steel. Figure 7 shows an English horseman's battle-axe used at the beginning of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The handle and axe both are to be shown in steel. A German foot soldier's poleaxe used, at the end of the fourteenth century is shown in Fig. 8. The handle is made of dark wood and the axe covered with tinfoil. Figure 9 shows an English foot soldier's jedburgh axe of the sixteenth century. The handle is of wood, studded with large brass or steel nails. The axe is shown in steel. All of these axes are about the same length.

Playing Baseball with a Pocket Knife

Positions of the Knife Indicate the Plays
Fig 1. Start
Fig 2. Foul
Fig 3. Home Run
Fig 4. Triple
Fig 5. Double
Fig 6. Single
Fig 7. Out

An interesting game of baseball can be played by two persons with a common pocket knife on a rainy day or in the winter time when the regular game cannot be played outdoors. The knife is opened and loosely stuck into a board, as in Fig. 1, and with a quick upward movement of the forefinger it is thrown into the air to fall and land in one of the positions shown. The plays are determined by the position of the knife after the fall.

A foul ball is indicated by Fig. 2, the knife resting on its back. The small blade sticking in the board which holds the handle in an upright position, as shown in Fig. 3, calls for a home run. Both blades sticking in the board (Fig. 4), a three-base hit. A two-base hit is made when the large blade sticks in the board, Fig. 5. A one-base hit is secured when the large blade and the end of the handle touch the board as in Fig. 6. The knife falling on its side (Fig. 7) calls for one out. Each person plays until three outs have been made, then the other plays, and so on for nine innings.

Contributed by Herbert Hahn, Chicago.

How to Remove Paper Stuck to a Negative

When making photographic prints from a negative, sometimes a drop of moisture will cause the print to stick to the gelatine film on the glass. Remove as much of the paper as can be readily torn off and soak the negative in a fresh hypo bath of 3 or 4 oz. hypo to 1 pt. of water for an hour or two. Then a little gentle rubbing with the finger-not the finger nail will remove anything adhering to the film. It may be found that the negative is not colored. If it is spotted at all, the negative must be washed for a few minutes and placed in a combined toning and fixing bath, which will remove the spots in a couple of hours. The negative must be well washed after going through the solutions to take away any trace of hypo.

Old-Time Magic

A Sack Trick

Sack Trick-Holding the Rope Inside the Bag

The magician appears accompanied by his assistant. He has a sack similar to a meal bag only on a large scale. The upper end of this bag is shown in Fig. 1, with the rope laced in the cloth. He then selects several people from the audience as a committee to examine the sack to see that there is absolutely no deception whatever in its makeup. When they are satisfied that the bag or sack is all right, the magician places his assistant inside and drawing the bag around him he allows the committee to tie him up with as many knots as they choose to make, as shown in Fig. 2.

The bag with its occupant is placed in a small cabinet which the committee surround to see that there is no outside help. The magician then takes his watch and shows the audience that in less than 30 seconds his assistant will emerge from the cabinet with the sack in his hand. This he does, the sack is again examined and found to be the same as when it was first seen.

The solution is when the assistant enters the bag he pulls in about 15 in. of the rope and holds it, as shown in Fig. 3, while the committee is tying him up. As soon as he is in the cabinet he merely lets out the slack thus making enough room for his body to pass through. When he is out of the bag he quickly unties the knots and then steps from his cabinet.

Contributed by J. F. Campbell, Somerville, Mass.

The Invisible Light

The magician places two common wax candles on a table, one of them burning brightly, the other without a light. Members of the audience are allowed to inspect both the table and the candles.

The magician walks over to the burning candle, shades the light for a few seconds, turns to the audience with his hands a few inches apart, showing that there is nothing between them, at the same time saying that he has a light between his hands, invisible to them (the audience), with which he is going to light the other candle. He then walks over to the other candle, and, in plain sight of the audience lights the candle apparently with nothing.

In reality the magician has a very fine wire in his hand which he is heating while he bends over the lighted candle, and the audience gaze on and see nothing. He turns to the other candle and touches a grain of phosphorus that has been previously concealed in the wick with the heated wire, thus causing it to light.

Contributed by C. Brown, New York City.

Using the Sun's Light in a Magic Lantern

The light furnished with a small magic lantern does very well for evening exhibitions, but the lantern can be used in the daytime with good results by directing sunlight through the lens instead of using the oil lamp.

A window facing the sun is selected and the shade is drawn almost down, the remaining space being covered by a piece of heavy paper. A small hole is cut in the paper and the lantern placed on a table in front of the hole, the lamp having been removed and the back opened. The lantern must be arranged so that the lens will be on a horizontal line with the hole in the paper. A mirror is then placed just outside of the window and at such an angle that the beam of light is thrown through the hole in the paper and the lens of the lantern.

The shades of the remaining windows are then drawn and the lantern is operated in the usual way.

Contributed by L. B. Evans, Lebanon, Ky.

A Handy Drill Gauge

The accompanying sketch shows a simple drill gauge which will be found very handy for amateurs. The gauge consists of a piece of hard wood, 3/4 in. thick, with a width and length that will be suitable for the size and number of drills you have on hand. Drill a hole through the wood with each drill you have and place a screw eye in one end to be used as a hanger. When you want to drill a hole for a pipe, bolt, screw, etc., you take the gauge and find what size drill must be used in drilling the hole.

Contributed by Andrew G. Thome, Louisville, Ky.

Stove Polish

A good stove polish can be made by mixing together 1 lb. of plumbago, 4 oz. of turpentine, 4 oz. of water and 1 oz. of sugar. Mix well and apply with a cloth or brush.

A Home-Made Daniell Cell

An effective Daniell galvanic cell may be constructed from material costing very little money. A common tin tomato can with a copper wire soldered to the top forms the jar and positive electrode. A piece of discarded stove zinc rolled into an open cylinder of about 1-1/2-in. diameter, 5 in. long, with a copper wire soldered at one end forms the negative electrode.

To make the porous cell, roll a piece of heavy brown wrapping paper, or blotting paper, into a tube of several thicknesses, about 5 in. long with an internal diameter of 2 in. Tie the paper firmly to prevent unrolling and close up one end with plaster of paris 1/2 in. thick. It is well to slightly choke the tube to better retain the plaster. The paper used must be unsized so that the solution scan mingle through the pores.

Two liquids are necessary for the cell. Make a strong solution in a glass or wooden vessel of blue vitriol in water. Dilute some oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) with about 12 times its measure of water and keep in a bottle when not in use. In making up the solution, add the acid to the water with constant stirring. Do not add water to the acid.

The cell is charged by placing the zinc in the paper tube and both placed into the tin can. Connect the two wires and pour the dilute acid into the porous cell around the zinc, and then immediately turn the blue vitriol solution into the can outside the paper cup.

A current generates at once and metallic copper begins to deposit on the inside of the can. It is best to let the action continue for a half hour or so before putting the cell into use. Several hours working will be required before the film of copper becomes sufficiently thick to protect the tin from corrosion when the cell stands idle. For this reason it will be necessary to pour out the blue vitriol solution into another receptacle immediately after through using, as otherwise the tin would be soon eaten full of holes. The porous cup should always be emptied after using to prevent the diffusion of the blue vitriol solution into the cup, and the paper tube must be well rinsed before putting away to dry.

This makes one of the most satisfactory battery cells on account of the constancy of its current, running for hours at a time without materially losing strength, and the low cost of maintenance makes it especially adapted for amateurs' use. Its current strength is about one volt, but can be made up into any required voltage in series. A battery of a dozen cells should cost not to exceed 50 cts. for the material, which will give a strong, steady current, amply sufficient for all ordinary experimental work.

A strong solution of common salt may be used in place of the oil of vitriol in the porous cup, but is not so good.

Contributed by C. H. Denniston, Pulteney. N. Y.

A Home-Made Equatorial By Harry Clark

The ordinary equatorial is designed and built for the latitude of the observatory where it is to be used. This is necessary since the hour axis must point to the north pole of the heavens whose elevation above the horizon is equal to the latitude of the observer's station. The final adjustment of an ordinary equatorial is very tedious so that when once set up it is not to be moved. This calls for a suitable house to protect the instrument. It has been the aim of the writer to build a very simple instrument for amateur work which would be adjustable to any latitude, so easily set up ready for work and so portable that it need not be left out of doors from one evening until the next.

The instrument is mounted on a tripod or piece of iron pipe carrying a short vertical rod of 3/8-in. steel. A rectangular wooden frame with suitable bearings rotates about this shaft. The frame has also two horizontal bearings carrying a short shaft to the end of which the frame carrying the hour axis is firmly clamped. By this arrangement of two perpendicular shafts the hour axis may be directed to any point in the heavens without care as to how the tripod or pipe is set up.

The frame for the hour axis is about 12 in. long with a bearing at each end. The shaft which it carries is 1/4-in. steel, carrying the hour circle at one end, and at the other the frame for the declination axis which is similar to the other, but somewhat lighter. The declination axis is also of 1/4-in. steel, carrying at one end the declination circle and the pointer at the other.

The entire frame of the instrument is made of cherry and it will save the builder much time if he will purchase cherry "furniture" which is used by printers and can be obtained from any printers' supply company. It is best quality wood free from imperfections in straight strips one yard long and of a uniform width of about 5/8 in. As to thickness, any multiple of 12-point (about 1/8 in.) may be obtained, thus saving much work in fitting up joints. Fifty cents will buy enough wood for an entire instrument. All corners are carefully mortised and braced with small brass angle-pieces. The frame is held together by small brass machine screws. After much experimentation with bearings, it was found best to make them in halves as metal bearings are usually made. The loose half is held in place by guides on all four sides and is tightened by two screws with milled nuts. A great deal of trouble was experienced in boring out the bearings until the following method was devised. One hole was bored as well as possible. The bearing was then loosened and a bit run through it to bore the other. Finally, a piece of shafting was roughened by rolling it on a file; placed in both bearings and turned with a brace. The bearings were gradually tightened until perfectly ground.

The declination axis must be perpendicular to both the hour axis and the line of sight over the pointer. To insure this, a positive adjustment was provided. The end of the shaft is clamped in a short block of wood by means of a bearing like the ones described. One end of the block is hinged to the axis frame, while the other end is attached by two screws, one drawing them together, the other holding them apart. The axis is adjusted by turning these screws. Each shaft, save the one in the pipe, is provided with this adjustment.

The pointer is of two very thin strips placed at right angles and tapered slightly at each end. The clamp is attached as shown in the illustration. The eye piece is a black iron washer supported on a small strip of wood. The aperture should be 1/4 in., since the pupil of the eye dilates very much in darkness. The error due to large aperture is reduced by using a very long pointer which also makes it possible to focus the eye upon the front sight and the star simultaneously. The forward sight is a bright brass peg illuminated by a tiny electric lamp with a reflector to shield the eye. The pointer arranged in this way is a great improvement over the hollow tube sometimes used, since it allows an unobstructed view of the heavens while indicating the exact point in question.

The circles of the instrument are of aluminum, attached to the shafts by means of wooden clamps. They were nicely graduated by a home-made dividing engine of very simple construction, and the figures were engraved with a pantograph. The reading is indicated by a cut on a small aluminum plate attached to a pointer. The hour circle is divided into 24 parts and subdivided to every four minutes. The figures are arranged so that when the instrument is set up, the number of hours increases while the pointer travels oppositely to the stars. The declination circle is graduated from zero to 90 deg. in each direction from two points 180 deg. apart. It is, adjusted to read zero when the pointer and two axes are mutually perpendicular as shown in the picture.

To adjust the instrument it is set up on the iron pipe and the pointer directed to some distant object. All set screws, excepting those on the declination axis, are tightened. Then the pointer is carefully turned through 180 deg. and if it is not again directed to the same point, it is not perpendicular to the declination axis. When properly set it will describe a great circle. With the declination axis in an approximately horizontal position the place where the pointer cuts the horizon is noted. The declination axis is then turned through 180 deg., when the pointer should again cut at the same place. Proper adjustment will cause it to do so. It is desirable that the hour circle should read approximately zero when the declination axis is horizontal, but this is not necessary for a reason soon to be explained. All these adjustments, once carefully made, need not be changed.

In using the instrument the hour axis can be directed to the north pole by the following method. Point it approximately to the north star. The pole is 1 deg. and 15 min. from the star on a straight line from the star to "Mizar," the star at the bend of the handle in the Big Dipper. Turn the hour circle into a position where the pointer can describe a circle through "Mizar." Only a rough setting is necessary. Now turn the pointer so that a reading of 88 deg. 45 min. shows on the declination circle on that side of 90 which is toward "Mizar." When this is done, clamp both axes and turn the shafts in the base until the pointer is directed accurately to the north star. It is evident from a study of the picture that the position of the small pointer which indicates the reading on the hour circle is not independent of the way in which the tripod or pipe is set up. It would then be useless to adjust it carefully to zero when the pointer cuts the "zenith" as is done with a large equatorial. Instead, the adjustment is made by setting the clock or watch which is part of the outfit. The pointer is directed to Alpha, Cassiopiae, and the hour reading subtracted from 24 hours (the approximate right ascension of the star) gives the time which the clock should be set to indicate. All of these settings should require not more than five minutes.

To find a star in the heavens, look up its declination and right ascension in an atlas. Set the declination circle to its reading. Subtract the clock time from the right ascension (plus 24 if necessary) and set the hour circle to the result. The star will then be seen on the tip of the pointer.

To locate a known star on the map, turn the pointer to the star. Declination is read directly. Add the clock time to the hour reading to get right ascension. If the result is more than 24 hours, subtract 24.

A Ground Glass Substitute

Ordinary plain glass coated with the following mixture will make a good ground glass substitute: Dissolve 18 gr. of gum sandarac and 4 gr. of gum mastic in 3-1/2 dr. of ether, then add 1 2-3 dr. benzole. If this will be too transparent, add a little more benzole, taking care not to add too much. Cover one side of a clear glass and after drying it will produce a perfect surface for use as a ground glass in cameras.

Contributed by Ray E. Strosnider, Plain City, Ohio.

A Miniature War Dance

A piece of paper, 3 or 4 in. long, is folded several times, as shown in the sketch, and the first fold marked out to represent one-half of an Indian. Cut out all the folds at one time on the dotted line and you will have as many men joined together as there were folds in the paper. Join the hands of the two end men with a little paste so as to form a circle of Indians holding hands. The next thing to do is to punch holes in heavy cardboard that is large enough to cover a pot or stew pan, and partially fill the vessel with water. Set this covered vessel over a heat and bring the water to a boiling point and then set the miniature Indians on the perforated cover. The dance will begin.

If the Indians are decked out with small feathers to represent the head gear and trailing plumes, a great effect will be produced.

Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

Saving an Engine

Turning the water on before starting the gas engine may prevent breaking a cylinder on a cold day.

Old-Time Magic

Removing 36 Cannon Balls from a Handbag

The magician produces a small handbag and informs the audience that he has it filled with 20-lb. cannon balls. He opens up the bag and takes out a ball which he passes to the audience for examination. The ball is found to be the genuine article. He makes a few passes with the wand and produces another ball, and so on until 36 of them lie on the floor.

In reality the first ball, which is the one examined, is the real cannon ball, the others are spiral-spherical springs covered with black cloth (Fig. 1). These balls can be pressed together in flat disks and put in the bag, Fig. 2. without taking up any great amount of space. When the spring is released it will fill out the black cloth to represent a cannon ball that cannot be distinguished from the real article.

Contributed by J. F. Campbell, Somerville, Mass.

A Rising Card Trick

A rising card trick can be accomplished with very little skill by using the simple device illustrated. The only things needed are four ordinary playing cards and a short rubber band. Pass one end of the rubber band through one card and the other end through the other card, as shown in the illustration, drawing the cards close together and fastening the ends by putting a pin through them. The remaining two cards are pasted to the first two so as to conceal the pins and ends of the rubber band.

Put the cards with the rubber band in a pack of cards; take any other card from the pack and show it to the audience in such a way that you do not see and know the card shown. Return the card to the pack, but be sure and place it between the cards tied together with the rubber band. Grasp the pack between your thumb and finger tightly at first, and by gradually loosening your hold the card previously shown to the audience will slowly rise out of the pack.

Contributed by Tomi O'Kawara, San Francisco, Cal.

Sliding Box Cover Fastener

While traveling through the country as a watchmaker I found it quite convenient to keep my small drills, taps, small brooches, etc., In boxes having a sliding cover. To keep the contents from spilling or getting mixed in my case I used a small fastener as shown in the accompanying illustration, The fastener is made of steel or brass and fastened by means of small screws or tacks on the outside of the box. A hole is drilled on the upper part to receive the pin that is driven into the sliding cover. This pin should not stick out beyond the thickness of the spring, which is bent up at the point so the pin will freely pass under it. The pin can be driven through the cover to prevent it from being pulled entirely out of the box.

Contributed by Herm Grabemann, Milwaukee, Wis.

How to Chain a Dog

A good way to chain a dog and give him plenty of ground for exercise is to stretch a clothesline or a galvanized wire between the house and barn on which is placed a ring large enough to slide freely. The chain from the dog's collar is fastened to the ring. This method can also be used for tethering a cow or horse, the advantage being the use of a short tie rope eliminating the possibility of the animal becoming entangled.

Water-Color Box

There are many different trays in the market for the purpose of holding water colors, but they are either too expensive for the average person or too small to be convenient. I do a great deal of water-color work and always felt the need of a suitable color dish. At last I found something that filled my want and suited my pocketbook. I bought 22 individual salt dishes and made a box to hold them, as shown in the illustration. This box has done good service.

Some of the advantages are: Each color is in a separate dish which can be easily taken out and cleaned; the dishes are deep enough to prevent spilling the colors into the adjoining ones, and the box can be made as big or as small as individual needs require. The tray containing the color dishes and brushes rests on 1/4-in. round pieces 2-1/4 in. from the bottom of the box, thus giving ample store room for colors, prints, slides and extra brushes.

Contributed by B. Beller, Hartford, Connecticut.

Saving Ink Pens

Ink usually corrodes pens in a short time. This can be prevented by placing pieces of steel pens or steel wire in the ink, which will absorb the acid and prevent it from corroding the pens.

A Plant-Food Percolator

Obtain two butter tubs and bore a large number of 1/4-in. holes in the bottom of one, then cover the perforated part with a piece of fine brass gauze (Fig. 1), tacking the gauze well at the corners. The other tub should be fitted with a faucet of some kind—a wood faucet, costing 5 cents, will answer the purpose. Put the first tub on top of the other with two narrow strips between them (Fig. 2). Fill the upper tub, about three-fourths full, with well packed horse manure, and pour water on it until it is well soaked. When the water has percolated through into the lower tub, it is ready to use on house and garden plants and is better than plain water, as it adds both fertilizer and moisture.

Contributed by C. O. Darke, West Lynn, Mass.

Lathe Safety

Always caliper the work on a lathe while it is standing still.

Never use the ways of a lathe for an anvil or storage platform.

Folding Quilting-Frames

The frame in which the material is kept stretched when making a quilt is usually too large to be put out of the way conveniently when other duties must be attended to; and especially are the end pieces objectionable. This can be remedied by hinging the ends so they will fold underneath to the center. The end pieces are cut in two at one-fourth their distance from each end, a hinge screwed to the under side to hold them together, and a hook and eye fastened on the other side to hold the parts rigid when they are in use. When the ends are turned under, the frame is narrow enough to be easily carried from one room to another, or placed against a wall.

A Drip Shield for the Arms

When working with the hands in a pan of water, oil or other fluid, it is very disagreeable to have the liquid run down the arms, when they are raised from the pan, often to soil the sleeves of a clean garment. A drip shield which will stop the fluid and cause it to run back into the pan can be easily made from a piece of sheet rubber or, if this is not available, from a piece of the inner tube of a bicycle tire. Cut a washer with the hole large enough to fit snugly about the wrist, but not so tight as to stop the circulation of the blood. A pair of these shields will always come in handy.

Contributed by L. M. Eifel, Chicago.

How to Cane Chairs

There are but few households that do not have at least one or two chairs without a seat or back. The same households may have some one who would enjoy recaning the chairs if he only knew how to do it, and also make considerable pin money by repairing chairs for the neighbors. If the following directions are carried out, new cane seats and backs can easily be put in chairs where they are broken or sagged to an uncomfortable position.

The first thing necessary is to remove the old cane. This can be done by turning the chair upside down and, with the aid of a sharp knife or chisel, cutting the cane between the holes. After this is done the old bottom can be pulled out. If plugs are found in any of the holes, they should be knocked out. If the beginner is in doubt about finding which holes along any curved sides should be used for the cane running nearly parallel to the edge, he may find it to his advantage to mark the holes on the under side of the frame before removing the old cane.

The worker should be provided with a small sample of the old cane. At any first-class hardware store a bundle of similar material may be secured.

The cane usually comes in lengths of about 15 ft. and each bundle contains enough to reseat several chairs. In addition to the cane, the worker should provide himself with a piece of bacon rind, a square pointed wedge, as shown in Fig. 1, and 8 or 10 round wood plugs, which are used for temporarily holding the ends of the cane in the holes. A bucket of water should be supplied in which to soak the cane just before weaving it. Several minutes before you are ready to begin work, take four or five strands of the cane, and, after having doubled them up singly into convenient lengths and tied each one into a single knot, put them into the water to soak. The cane is much more pliable and is less liable to crack in bending when worked while wet. As fast as the soaked cane is used, more of it should be put into the water.

Untie one of the strands which has been well soaked, put about 3 or 4 in. down through the hole at one end of what is to be the outside strand of one side and secure it in this hole by means of one of the small plugs mentioned. The plug should not be forced in too hard nor cut off, as it must be removed again. The other end of the strand should be made pointed and passed down through the hole at the opposite side, and, after having been pulled tight, held there by inserting another plug. Pass the end up through the next hole, then across and down, and hold while the second plug is moved to the last hole through which the cane was drawn. In the same manner proceed across the chair bottom. Whenever the end of one strand is reached, it should be held by a plug, and a new one started in the next hole as in the beginning. No plugs should be permanently removed until another strand of cane is through the same hole to hold the first strand in place. After laying the strands across the seat in one direction, put in another layer at right angles and lying entirely above the first layer. Both of these layers when in place appear as shown in one of the illustrations.

After completing the second layer, stretch the third one, using the same holes as for the first layer. This will make three layers, the first being hidden by the third while the second layer is at right angles to and between the first and third. No weaving has been done up to this time, nothing but stretching and threading the cane through the holes. The cane will have the appearance shown in Fig. 3. The next thing to do is to start the cane across in the same direction as the second layer and begin the weaving. The top or third layer strands should be pushed toward the end from which the weaving starts, so that the strand being woven may be pushed down between the first and third layers and up again between pairs. The two first strands of the fourth layer are shown woven in Fig. 3. During the weaving, the strands should be lubricated with the rind of bacon to make them pass through with ease. Even with this lubrication, one can seldom weave more than half way across the seat with the pointed end before finding it advisable to pull the remainder of the strand through. After finishing this fourth layer of strands, it is quite probable that each strand will be about midway between its two neighbors instead of lying close to its mate as desired, and here is where the square and pointed wedge is used. The wedge is driven down between the proper strands to move them into place.

Start at one corner and weave diagonally, as shown in Fig. 4, making sure that the strand will slip in between the two which form the corner of the square in each case. One more weave across on the diagonal and the seat will be finished except for the binding, as shown in Fig. 5. The binding consists of one strand that covers the row of holes while it is held down with another strand, a loop over the first being made every second or third hole as desired. It will be of great assistance to keep another chair with a cane bottom at hand to examine while recaning the first chair.

Contributed by M. R. W.

Repairing a Cracked Composition Developing Tray

Fill the crack with some powdered rosin and heap it up on the outside. Heat a soldering-iron or any piece of metal enough to melt the rosin and let it flow through the break. When cool, trim off the surplus rosin. If handled with a little care, a tray repaired in this manner will last a long time. The chemicals will not affect the rosin.

Contributed by E. D. Patrick, Detroit, Michigan.

How to Lay Out a Sundial

The sundial is an instrument for measuring time by using the shadow of the sun. They were quite common in ancient times before clocks and watches were invented. At the present time they are used more as an ornamentation than as a means of measuring time, although they are quite accurate if properly constructed. There are several different designs of sundials, but the most common, and the one we shall describe in this article, is the horizontal dial. It consists of a flat circular table, placed firmly on a solid pedestal and having a triangular plate of metal, Fig. 1, called the gnomon, rising from its center and inclined toward the meridian line of the dial at an angle equal to the latitude of the place where the dial is to be used. The shadow of the edge of the triangular plate moves around the northern part of the dial from morning to afternoon, and thus supplies a rough measurement of the hour of the day.

Table No. 1.
Height of stile in inches for a 5 in.
base, for various latitudes

Latitude Height

25° 2.33

26° 2.44

27° 2.55

28° 2.66

30° 2.89

32° 3.12

34° 3.37

36° 3.63

38° 3.91

40° 4.20

42° 4.50

44° 4.83

46° 5.18

48° 5.55

50° 5.96

52° 6.40

54° 6.88

56° 7.41

58° 8.00

60° 8.66

The style or gnomon, as it always equals the latitude of the place, can be laid out as follows: Draw a line AB, Fig. 1, 5 in. long and at the one end erect a perpendicular BC, the height of which is taken from table No. 1. It may be necessary to interpolate for a given latitude, as for example, lat. 41°-30'. From table No. 1 lat. 42° is 4.5 in. and for lat. 40°, the next smallest, it is 4.2 in. Their difference is .3 in. for 2°, and for 1° it would be .15 in. For 30' it would be 1/2 of 1° or .075 in. All added to the lesser or 40°, we have 4.2+.15+.075 in.= 4.42 in. as the height of the line BC for lat. 41 °-30'. If you have a table of natural functions, the height of the line BC, or the style, is the base (5 in. in this case) times the tangent of the degree of latitude. Draw the line AD, and the angle BAD is the correct angle for the style for the given latitude. Its thickness, if of metal, may be conveniently from 1/8 to 1/4 in.; or if of stone, an inch or two, or more, according to the size of the dial. Usually for neatness of appearance the back of the style is hollowed as shown. The upper edges which cast the shadows must be sharp and straight, and for this size dial (10 in. in diameter) they should be about 7-1/2 in. long.

To lay out the hour circle, draw two parallel lines AB and CD, Fig. 2, which will represent the base in length and thickness. Draw two semi-circles, using the points A and C as centers, with a radius of 5 in. The points of intersection with the lines AB and CD will be the 12 o'clock marks. A line EF drawn through the points A and C, and perpendicular to the base or style, and intersecting the semicircles, gives the 6 o'clock points. The point marked X is to be used as the center of the dial. The intermediate hour and half-hour lines can be plotted by using table No. 2 for given latitudes, placing them to the right or left of the 12-o'clock points. For latitudes not given, interpolate in the same manner as for the height of the style. The 1/4-hour and the 5 and 10-minute divisions may be spaced with the eye or they may be computed.

Table NO. 2.
Chords in inches for a 10 in. circle Sundial.

Lat Hours Of Day

12-30 1 1-30 2 2-30 3 3-30 4 4-30 5 5-30

11-30 11 10-30 10 9-30 9 8-30 8 7-30 7 6-30

25° .28 .56 .870 1.19 1.57 1.99 2.49 3.11 3.87 4.82 5.93

30 .33 .66 1.02 1.40 1.82 2.30 2.85 3.49 4.26 5.14 6.10

35 .38 .76 1.16 1.59 2.06 2.57 3.16 3.81 4.55 5.37 6.23

40 .42 .85 1.30 1.77 2.27 2.82 3.42 4.07 4.79 5.55 6.32

45 .46 .94 1.42 1.93 2.46 3.03 3.64 4.29 4.97 5.68 6.39

50 .50 1.01 1.53 2.06 2.68 3.21 3.82 4.46 5.12 5.79 6.46

55 .54 1.08 1.63 2.19 2.77 3.37 3.98 4.60 5.24 5.87 6.49

60 .57 1.14 1.71 2.30 2.89 3.49 4.10 4.72 5.34 5.93 6.52

Table No. 3

Corrections in minutes to change Sun time to local mean time; add those marked +, subtract those Marked - from Sundial time.

Day of month 1 10 20 30

January +3 +7 +11 +13

February +14 +14 +14 0

March +13 +11 +8 +5

April +4 +2 -1 -3

May -3 -4 -4 -3

June -3 +1 +1 +3

July +3 +5 +6 +6

August +6 +5 +3 +1

September +0 -3 -6 -10

October -10 -13 -15 -16

November -16 -16 -14 -11

December -11 -7 -3 +2

When placing the dial in position, care must be taken to get it perfectly level and have the style at right angles to the dial face, with its sloping side pointing to the North Pole. An ordinary compass, after allowing for the declination, will enable one to set the dial, or it may be set by placing it as near north and south as one may judge and comparing with a watch set at standard time. The dial time and the watch time should agree after the watch has been corrected for the equation of time from table No. 3, and for the difference between standard and local time, changing the position of the dial until an agreement is reached. Sun time and standard time agree only four times a year, April 16, June 15, Sept. 2 and Dec. 25, and on these dates the dial needs no correction. The corrections for the various days of the month can be taken from Table 3. The + means that the clock is faster, and the - means that the dial is faster than the sun. Still another correction must be made which is constant for each given locality. Standard time is the correct time for longitude 75° New York, 90° Chicago, 105° Denver and 120° for San Francisco. Ascertain in degrees of longitude how far your dial is east or west of the nearest standard meridian and divide this by 15, reducing the answer to minutes and seconds, which will be the correction in minutes and seconds of time. If the dial is east of the meridian chosen, then the watch is slower; if west, it will be faster. This correction can be added to the values in table No. 3, making each value slower when it is east of the standard meridian and faster when it is west.

The style or gnomon with its base can be made in cement and set on a cement pedestal which has sufficient base placed in the ground to make it solid.

The design of the sundial is left to the ingenuity of the maker.

Contributed by J. E. Mitchell, Sioux City, Iowa.

Imitation Arms and Armor-Part IV

The ancient arms of defense as shown in the accompanying illustrations make good ornaments for the den if they are cut from wood and finished in imitation of the real weapon. The designs shown represent original arms of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. As they are the genuine reproductions, each article can be labelled with the name, adding to each piece interest and value, says the English Mechanic, London.

Each weapon is cut from wood. The blades of the axes and the cutting edges of the swords are dressed down and finished with sandpaper and the steel parts represented by covering the wood with tinfoil. When putting on the tinfoil, brush a thin coat of glue on the part to be covered and quickly lay on the foil. If a cutting edge is to be covered the tinfoil on one side of the blade must overlap the edge which is pasted on the opposite side. The other side is then covered with the tinfoil of a size that will not quite cover to the cutting edge. After laying the foil and allowing time for the glue to dry, wipe the surface with light strokes up and down several times using a soft piece of cloth.

A French partisan of the sixteenth century is shown in Fig. 1. The weapon is 6-1/2 ft. long with a round handle having the same circumference for the entire length which is covered with crimson cloth or velvet and studded all over with round-headed brass nails. The spear head is of steel about 15 in. long from the point where it is attached to the handle. The widest part of the blade from spear to spear is about 8 in. The length of the tassel or fringe is about 4 in.

Figure 2 shows a German military fork of the sixteenth century, the length of which is about 5 ft. with a handle of wood bound with heavy cord in a spiral form and the whole painted a dark color. The entire length of the fork from the handle to the points is about 10 in., and is covered with tinfoil in imitation of steel.

A Swiss halberd of the sixteenth century is shown in Fig. 3. This combination of an axe and spear is about 7 ft. long from the point of the spear to the end of the handle, which is square. The spear and axe is of steel with a handle of plain dark wood. The holes in the axe can be bored or burned out with red-hot iron rods, the holes being about 1/4 in. in diameter.

Figure 4 shows an Austrian officers' spontoon, used about the seventeenth century. It is about 6 ft. long with a round wooden handle. The spear head from its point to where fixed on the handle is about 9 in. long. The edges are sharp. The cross bar which runs through the lower end of the spear can be made in two pieces and glued into a hole on each side. The length of this bar is about 5 in. The small circular plate through which the bar is fixed can be cut from a piece of cardboard and glued on the wooden spear.

A gisarm or glaive, used by Italians in the sixteenth century, is shown in Fig. 5. The entire length is about 6-1/2 ft. The blade is engraved steel with a length of metal work from the point of the spear to where it joins the handle or staff of about 18 in. It has a round wooden handle painted black or dark brown. The engraved work must be carved in the wood and when putting the tinfoil on, press it well into the carved depressions.

Figure 6 shows a Saxon voulge of the sixteenth century, 6 ft. long, with a round wood handle and a steel axe or blade, sharp on the outer edge and held to the handle by two steel bands, which are a part of the axe. The bands can be made of cardboard and glued on to the wood axe. These bands can be made very strong by reinforcing the cardboard with a piece of canvas. A small curved spear point is carved from a piece of wood, covered with tinfoil and fastened on the end of the handle as shown. The band of metal on the side is cut from cardboard, covered with tinfoil and fastened on with round-headed brass or steel nails.

A very handsome weapon is the German halberd of the sixteenth century which is shown in Fig. 7. The entire length is about 6-1/2 ft., with a round wooden handle fitted at the lower end with a steel ornament. The length of the spear point to the lower end where it joins on to the handle is 14 in. The extreme width of the axe is 16 or 17 in. The outer and inner edges of the crescent-shaped part of the axe are sharp. This axe is cut out with a scroll or keyhole saw and covered with tinfoil.

An Italian ranseur of the sixteenth century is shown in Fig. 8. This weapon is about 6 ft. long with a round staff or handle. The entire length of the metal part from the point of the spear to where it joins the staff is 15 in. The spear is steel, sharp on the outer edges.

Figure 9 shows a tilting lance with vamplate used in tournaments in the sixteenth century. The wood pole is covered with cloth or painted a dark color. At the end is a four-pronged piece of steel. The vamplate can be made of cardboard covered with tinfoil to represent steel and studded with brass nails. The extreme length is 9 ft.

The tassels or fringe used in decorating the handles can be made from a few inches of worsted fringe, about 4 in. long and wound around the handle or staff twice and fastened with brass-headed nails.

An Emergency Babbitt Ladle

Take an old stove leg and rivet a handle on it and then break the piece off which fastens on the stove. The large and rounding part of the leg makes the bowl of the ladle. This ladle will be found convenient for melting babbitt or lead.

Contributed by R. H. Workman, Loudonville, Ohio.

How to Make Japanese Portieres

These very useful and ornamental draperies can be easily made at home by anyone possessing a little ingenuity. They can be made of various materials, the most durable being bamboo, although beads of glass or rolled paper will produce good results. Substances such as straw, while readily adaptable and having a neat appearance, are less durable and will quickly show wear. The paper beads are easily made as shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3. In Figs. 1 and 2 are shown how the paper is cut tapering, and as it appears after rolling and gluing down the ends. A straight paper bead is shown in Fig. B.

The first step is to select the kind of beads desired for stringing and then procure the hanging cord. Be sure to get a cord of such size that the beads will slip on readily and yet have the least possible lateral movement. This is important to secure neatness. One end of each cord is tied to a round piece of wood, or in holes punched in a leather strap. Iron or brass rings can be used if desired.

Cut all the cords the same length, making allowance for the number of knots necessary to produce the design selected. Some designs require only one knot at the bottom. It is best to make a rough sketch of the design on paper. This will greatly aid the maker in carrying on the work.

When the main part of the screen is finished, the cross cords, used for spacing and binding the whole together, are put in place. This is done with a needle made from a piece of small wire, as shown in Fig. 4. The cross cords are woven in as shown in Fig. 5. As many of these cross cords can be put in as desired, and if placed from 6 to 12 in. apart, a solid screen will be made instead of a portiere. The twisted cross cords should be of such material, and put through in such manner that they will not be readily seen. If paper beads are used they can be colored to suit and hardened by varnishing.

The first design shown is for using bamboo. The cords are knotted to hold the bamboo pieces in place. The finished portiere will resemble drawn work in cloth. Many beautiful hangings can be easily fashioned.

The second design is to be constructed with a plain ground of either straw, bamboo or rolled paper. The cords are hung upon a round stick with rings of metal to make the sliding easy. The design is made by stringing beads of colored glass at the right places between the lengths of ground material. One bead is placed at the extreme end of each cord. The rows of twisted cord placed at the top keep the strings properly spaced.

Contributed by Geo. M. Harrer, Lockport, New York.

Makeshift Camper's Lantern

While out camping, our only lantern was accidentally smashed beyond repair, and it was necessary to devise something that would take its place. We took an empty tomato can and cut out the tin, 3 in. wide, for a length extending from a point 2 in. below the top to within 1/4 in. of the bottom. Each side of the cutout A was bent inward in the shape of a letter S, in which was placed a piece of glass. Four V-shaped notches were cut, as shown at B, near the top of the can and their points turned outward. A slit was cut in the bottom, shaped as shown at C, and the pointed ends thus formed were turned up to make a place for holding the base of a candle. A larger can was secured and the bottom perforated. This was turned over the top of the other can. A heavy wire was run through the perforations and a short piece of broom handle used to make a bail.

Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

New Tires for Carpet-Sweeper Wheels

The rubber tires on carpet-sweeper wheels often become so badly worn and stretched that they fail to grip the carpet firmly enough to run the sweeper. To remedy this, procure some rubber tape a little wider than the rims of the old wheels, remove the old rubber tires and wind the tape on the rims to the proper thickness. Trim the edges with a sharp knife and rub on some chalk or soapstone powder to prevent the tape from sticking to the carpet. A sweeper treated in this manner will work as well as a new one.

Contributed by W. H. Shay, Newburgh, N. Y.

Gauntlets on Gloves

When the fingers or palms of gloves with gauntlets wear out, do not throw away the gloves, but cut off the gauntlets and procure a pair of gloves with short wrists to which the old gauntlets can be sewn after the wrist bands have been removed from the new gloves. The sewing may be done either by hand or on a machine, gathering in any fullness in the bellows of the cuff on the under side. A pair of gauntlets will outwear three or four pairs of gloves.

Contributed by Joseph H. Sanford, Pasadena, Cal.

How to Make an Ornamental Brass Flag

The outlines of the flag—which may be of any size to suit the metal at hand—and the name are first drawn on a sheet of thin paper and then transferred to the brass by tracing through a sheet of carbon paper. The brass should be somewhat larger than the design.

The brass is fastened to a block of soft wood with small nails driven through the edges. Indent the name and outline of the flag with a small chisel with the face ground flat, about 1/16 in. wide. This should be done gradually, sinking the lines deeper and deeper by going over them a number of times. After this is finished, the brass is loosened from the block, turned over but not fastened, and the whole outside of and between the letters is indented with the rounded end of a nail, giving the appearance of hammered brass.

The edges are now cut off and four holes drilled, two for the chain by which to hang the flag to the wall, and two along the side for attaching the staff. The staff is a small brass rod with a knob attached to the top end.

It would be well to polish the brass at first, if the finished work is to be bright, as it cannot be done after the flag is completed. A coat of lacquer is applied to keep it from tarnishing. This is done by heating the brass and quickly applying a coat of shellac.

Contributed by Chas. Schaffner, Maywood, Ill.

An Adjustable Punching-Bag Platform

A punching-bag platform, suitable for the tall athlete as well as the small boy, is shown in the accompanying sketch. The platform is securely fastened to two strong wooden arms or braces, which in turn are nailed to a 2 by 12-in. plank as long as the diameter of the platform. This plank, as shown in the small drawing at the upper left-hand corner of the sketch, is placed in grooves or slots fastened against the side of a wall. The plank with the platform attached may be raised or lowered to the desired height and held there by a pin or bolt put through the bolt-hole of the plank and into a hole in the wall.

Contributed by W. A. Jaquythe, Richmond, Cal.

Clasp for Holding Flexible Lamp Cords

A very easily made drop-light adjuster is shown in the illustration. It consists of a piece of copper wire 7/8 in. in diameter, bent as shown. This clasp is capable of standing a strong pull and will hold the lamp and socket with a glass shade.

E. K. Marshall, Oak Park, Ill.

Protect Camel Hair Brushes

Camel hair brushes for painters' use should never be allowed to come in contact with water.

Home-Made Electric Clock

The clock illustrated herewith is driven by means of electromagnets acting directly on the pendulum bob. Unlike most clocks, the pendulum swings forward and backward instead of laterally. The construction is very simple, and the result is not only novel but well worth while, because one does not have to bother about winding a clock, such as this one, says the Scientific American.

The clock is mounted on a wooden base measuring 3-3/4 by 6-1/2 in., by 1-5/16 in. thick. Secured centrally on this base is a 1/8 by 3/4-in. bar, 6 in. long and at each side of this, 5/16 in. away, is an electromagnet, 3/4 in. in diameter and 1-7/16 in. high. Two uprights, 7-1/2 in. high and 1/4 in. in diameter, are secured in the base bar, and are connected at the top by a brass yoke piece on which the clock frame is supported. Just below the yoke piece a hole is drilled in each upright to receive the pivot pins of the crosspiece secured to the upper end of the pendulum rod. The pendulum bob at the lower end is adjusted to swing just clear of the electromagnets. Mounted at the right-hand side of the base are three tall binding-posts, the center one being 2-3/4 in. high, and the other two 2-5/8 in. high. Each is fitted with a piece of copper wire provided with a small brass spring tip. These springs lie in the plane of the pendulum, which serves to swing the central tip first against one and then against the other of the side tips, thereby closing the circuit of first one magnet and then the other. Each magnet attracts the pendulum until its circuit is broken by release of the center tip, and on the return swing of the pendulum the circuit of the other magnet is similarly closed. Thus the pendulum is kept in motion by the alternate magnetic impulses. The clock train is taken from a standard clock and the motion of the pendulum is imparted to the escape wheel by means of a pawl, bearing on the latter, which is lifted at each forward stroke of the pendulum by an arm projecting forward from the pivotal end of the pendulum rod.

Method of Joining Boards

The amateur wood-worker often has trouble in joining two boards together so that they will fit square and tight. The accompanying sketch shows a simple and effective method of doing this. Secure a board, A, about 12 in. wide that is perfectly flat. Fasten another board, B, about 6 in. wide, to the first one with screws or glue. Now place the board to be joined, C, on the board B, letting it extend over the inside edge about 1 in. and fastening it to the others with clamps at each end. Lay the plane on its side and plane the edge straight. Place the second board in the clamps in the same manner as the first, only have the opposite side up. If the cutting edge of the blade is not vertical, the boards planed in this manner will fit as shown in the upper sketch. In using this method, first-class joints can be made without much trouble.

Contributed by V. Metzech, Chicago.

Toy Gun for Throwing Cardboard Squares

The parts of the gun are attached to a thin piece of wood 1 in. wide and 5 in. long. It is best to use a piece of wood cut from the side or cover of a cigar box. A rectangular hole 3/16 in. wide and 1 in. long is cut in the wood longitudinally along its axis and 1-3/8 in. from one end, as shown at A, Fig. 1. A small notch is made with the point of a knife blade at B and notches are cut in the end of the wood as shown at C. Rubber bands are fastened in these notches as shown in Fig. 2. The trigger, whose dimensions are given in Fig. 3, is fastened in the hole A, Fig. 1, by driving a pin through the wood. The assembled parts are shown in Fig. 4. Place the cardboard square in the nick B, attach the rubber bands and pull the trigger. The top rubber band will fly off and drive the cardboard square 75 ft. or more. The cardboard should be about 1/2 in. square. These can be cut from any old pasteboard box.

Contributed by Elmer A. Vanderslice, Phoenixville, Pa.

Photographic Developing Tray

Plates developed in an ordinary tray must be removed from the bath occasionally for examination. The film when in a chemical-soaked condition is easily damaged. The tray illustrated herewith was made for the purpose of developing plates without having to take hold of them until the bath had completed its work, the examination being made through the plate and the bottom of the tray.

A pocket is provided for the liquid developer in one end of the tray when it is turned up in a vertical position. A tray for developing 5 by 7-in. plates should be made 8 in. square inside. The side pieces with the grooves for the glass are shown in Fig. 1. Two of each of these pieces are made with mitered ends. The short groove shown in the top piece of the illustration is for inserting the plate covering on the pocket end of the tray.

Two blocks, one-half the length of the side pieces, are put in between the glass plates to hold the plate being developed from dropping down when the tray is tipped up in a vertical position. The glass bottom of the tray is 8-1/2 in. square, which allows 1/4 in. on all edges to set in the grooves of the side pieces. The wood pieces should be well soaked in hot paraffin, and the mitered corners well glued and nailed.

Contributed by J.A. Simonis, Fostoria, Ohio.

Iron Putty

A good filler used as a putty on iron castings may be made as follows: Take, by weight, 3 parts of stiff keg lead, 5 parts of black filler, 2 parts of whiting, 5 parts of pulverized silica and make into a paste with a mixture of one part each of coach japan, rubbing varnish and turpentine.

Rubber Bands in Kite Balancing Strings

Kite flyers will find it to their advantage to place rubber bands of suitable size in the balancing strings to the kite, as shown in the illustration. This will prevent a "break-away" and also make the right pull, if only two bands are put in the lower strings.

Contributed by Thos. DeLoof, Grand Rapids, Michigan.

An Aid in Sketching

Sketching requires some little training, but with the apparatus here illustrated an inexperienced person can obtain excellent results. The apparatus is made of a box 8 in. deep, 8 in. wide and about 1 ft. long. A double convex lens, G, is fitted in a brass tube which should have a sliding fit in another shorter and larger tube fastened to the end of the box. A mirror, II, is set at an angle of 45 deg. in the opposite end of the box. This reflects the rays of light passing through the lens to the surface K, which may be either of ground or plain glass. The lid or cover EF protects the glass and keeps the strong light out when sketching. The inside of the box and brass tube are painted a dull black.

In use, the device is set with the lens tube directed toward the scene to be painted or sketched and the lens focused so the reflected picture will be seen in sharp detail on the glass. Select your colors and put them on the respective colors depicted on the glass. If you wish to make a pencil drawing, all you have to do is to fill in the lines in the picture on the ground glass. If a plain glass is used, place tracing paper on its surface, and the picture can be drawn as described.

How to Make Miniature Electric Lamp Sockets

A socket for a miniature lamp can be made as shown in the sketch. A brass spring wire is wound around the base of the threads on the lamp and an eye turned on each end to receive a screw and a binding-post, as shown in Fig. 1. A piece of metal, preferably copper, is attached to a wood base as shown in Fig. 2 and the coil-spring socket fastened across it in the opposite direction. Bend the wire so that the spring presses the lamp against the metal. If the wire fits the lamp loosely, remove the lamp and press the sides of the coil closer together. The metal parts can be attached to any smooth surface of wood without making a regular base.

Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, No. Dartmouth, Mass.

Imitation Arms and Armor-Part V

The preceding chapters gave descriptions of making arms in imitation of ancient weapons, and now the amateur armorer must have some helmets to add to his collection. There is no limit to the size of the helmet, and it may be made as a model or full sized. In constructing helmets, a mass of clay of any kind that is easily workable and fairly stiff, is necessary, says the English Mechanic, London. It must be kept moist and well kneaded. A large board or several planks, joined closely together, on which to place the clay, will be necessary. The size of this board will depend on the size of the work that is intended to be modeled upon it.

The way to make a helmet is described in the following method of producing a German morion, shown in Fig. 1. This helmet has fleur-de-lis in embossed work, and on each side is a badge of the civic regiment of the city of Munich. The side view of the helmet is shown in Fig. 1.

The clay, is put on the board and modeled into the shape shown in Fig. 2. This is done with the aid of a pair of compasses, a few clay-modeling tools, and the deft use of the fingers. The fleur-de-lis are slightly raised, as in bas-relief. To aid in getting the helmet in correct proportion on both sides, and over the crest on top, cut out the shape from a piece of wood, as shown in Fig. 3, with a keyhole saw. This wood being passed carefully and firmly over the clay will bring it into shape, and will also show where there may be any deficiencies in the modeling, which can then be easily remedied by adding more clay. The cut-out pattern shown in Fig. 4 is the side outline of the helmet.

Scraps of thin, brown, wrapping paper are put to soak in a basin of water to which has been added about a tablespoonful of size melted and well stirred, or some thin glue, and left over night to soak. The paper should be torn in irregular shapes about as large as the palm of the hand. After the clay model is finished, give it a thin coat of oil-sweet or olive oil will answer the purpose very well. All being ready, the clay model oiled, and the basin of soaked paper near to hand, take, up one piece of paper at a time and very carefully place it upon the model, pressing it well on the clay and into and around any crevices and patterns, and continue until the clay is completely covered.

This being done, give the paper a thin and even coating of glue, which must be quite hot and put on as quickly as possible. Put on a second layer of paper as carefully as before, then another coating of glue, and so on, until there are from four to six coats of glue and paper. When dry, the paper coating should be quite stout and strong enough for the helmet to be used for ornamental purposes. Before taking it off the model, which should be no difficult matter, owing to the clay being oiled, trim off any ragged edges of paper with a sharp knife, and smooth and finish all over with some fine sandpaper. The paper is then given a thin coat of glue and sections of tinfoil stuck on to give it a finished appearance. When the helmet is off the model, make holes with a small awl at equal distances, through which to insert some fancy brass nails, bending the points over and flat against the inside of the helmet.

A vizor helmet is shown in Fig. 5. This helmet has a movable vizor in the front that can be lifted up, a crest on top, and around the neck a narrow gorget which rests upon the wearer's shoulders. The whole helmet, with the exception of the vizor, should be modeled and made in one piece. The vizor can then be made and put in place with a brass-headed nail on each side. The oblong slits in front of the vizor must be carefully marked out with a pencil and cut through with a knife or chisel.

In Fig. 6 is shown an Italian casque of a foot soldier of the sixteenth century. This helmet may have the appearance of being richly engraved as shown in one-half of the drawing, or, a few lines running down, as seen in the other part of the sketch, will make it look neat. The band is decorated with brass studs.

An Italian cabasset of the sixteenth century is shown in Fig. 7. This helmet is elaborately decorated with fancy and round-headed nails, as shown: in the design.

In Fig. 8 is shown a large bassinet with a hinged vizor which comes very much forward, so as to allow the wearer to breathe freely. This helmet was worn about the sixteenth century, and was probably used for tilting and tournaments.

A burgonet skull-cap of the seventeenth century is shown in Fig. 9. The vizor is composed of a single bar of metal, square in shape, which slides up and down in an iron socket attached to the front of the helmet, and is held in any position by a thumbscrew as shown in the illustration.

A hole in the peak of the helmet allows it to hang in front of the wearer's face. This contrivance should be made of wood, the helmet to be modeled in three pieces, the skullcap, peak and lobster shell neck guard in one piece, and the ear guards in two pieces, one for each side. The center of the ear guards are perforated. All of the helmets are made in the same manner as described for Fig. 1. They are all covered with tinfoil.

How to Repair Linoleum

A deep crack or fissure right in front of the kitchen cabinet spoiled the appearance of the new linoleum. The damaged spot was removed with a sharp knife and from a left-over scrap a piece was cut of the same outline and size. The edges were varnished and then the patch was set in the open space. The linoleum was given a good coat of varnish making it more durable. When perfectly dry, the piecing could not be detected.

Contributed by Paul Keller, Indianapolis, Indiana.