In the forbidden land

by Arnold Henry Savage Landor

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Contents

1. Preface
2. Contents
3. Chapter I. From London to Naini Tal
4. Chapter II. Loads—A set of useful pack-saddle cases—Provisions and scientific outfit—Clothes and shoes—Medicines—Under way—The first march—Servants—How I came to employ faithful Chanden Sing
5. Chapter III. Pithoragarh—Fakir women—A well-ventilated abode—Askote—The Rajiwar and his people
6. Chapter IV. The Raots—A slippery journey—Superstitious notions—Anger and jealousy—Friends—To the homes of the savages—Photography—Habitations
7. Chapter V. A pilgrim from Mansarowar Lake—The spirits of the mountains—A safeguard against them—Tibetan encampments—The Rajiwar—A waterfall—Watermills
8. Chapter VI. Highways and trade routes—The Darma route—The Dholi River—A rough track connecting two valleys—Glaciers—Three ranges and their peaks—Altitudes— Darma, Johar , and the Painkhanda Parganas—T
9. Chapter VII. The word Bhot and its meaning—Tibetan influence—Tibetan abuses—The ever-helpful Chanden Sing—The first Shoka village—Chanden Sing in disgrace—Weaving-loom—Fabrics—All's well that ends wel
10. Chapter VIII. Prayer by wind-power—Photography under difficulties—A night of misery—Drying up—Two lady missionaries—Their valuable work—An interesting dinner party—An "eccentric" man's tea party
11. Chapter IX. Discouraging reports—A steep ascent—How I came to deserve the name of "monkey"—Hard at work—Promoted in rank—Collapse in a gale of wind—Time and labour lost
12. Chapter X. The Nerpani , or "waterless track"—Exaggerated accounts—A long shot—The rescue of two coolies—Picturesque Nature—An involuntary shower-bath—The Chai Pass
13. Chapter XI. A series of misfortunes—Tibetan atrocities on British subjects—Tibetan exactions—Revolting cruelty to one of her Majesty's subjects—Assault on a British officer—A smart British Envoy
14. Chapter XII. Tibetan threats—My birthday—Ravenous dogs—A big dinner—Shoka hospitality
15. Chapter XIII. Shoka hospitality—How I obtained much information—On a reconnoitring trip—A terrible slide
16. Chapter XIV. A palaver—To see is to believe—Dangers and perils on the snow and ice— Thar and Ghural —Stalking—A tiring climb to 16,000 feet—The collapse of a snow bridge
17. Chapter XV. An earthquake—Curious notions of the natives—A Shoka tailor and his ways—The arrival of silver cash—Two rocks in the Kali—Arrogance of a Tibetan spy
18. Chapter XVI. The Rambang —Shoka music—Love-songs—Doleful singing—Abrupt ending—Solos—Smoking—When marriage is contemplated—The Delang —Adultery—Punishment
19. Chapter XVII. Funeral Rites Departure of the Soul—Cremation—Amusement of the dead man's soul—The lay figure—Feasting—Doleful dance—Transmigration of the soul—Expensive ceremonies—Offerings before the
20. Chapter XVIII. Touching Shoka farewell—Feelings curiously expressed—Sobs and tears—The start—A funereal procession—Distressed father and mother—Kachi and Dola the worse for drink—Anxious moments—The b
21. Chapter XIX. A dangerous track—Perilous passage—A curious bridge over a precipice—Pathetic Shoka custom—Small misadventures—A grand reception—Tea for all tastes
22. Chapter XX. Dr. Wilson joins my expedition for a few marches—What misdeeds a photographic camera can do—Weighing, dividing, and packing provisions—Two extra men wanted—The last friendly faces
23. Chapter XXI. The Kuti Castle—Under way—Our first disaster—A cheerful and a sulky coolie—Mansing—A brigand—A strange medley of followers—A character—Tailoring—Fields of stones—Troublesome rivers—The Jo
24. Chapter XXII. Want of fuel—Cooking under difficulty—Mansing lost and found—Saved from summary justice—Tibetan visitors—We purchase sheep—The snow-line—Cold streams—The petrified chapati and human hand
25. Chapter XXIII. The scouts return—A small exploring party—The Mangshan glacier
26. Chapter XXIV. Snow and troublesome débris —The doctor's sufferings—Kachi disabled—Further trials—A weird apparition—Delirium—All safe—The descent
27. Chapter XXV. The sources of the Kuti River—The Lumpiya glacier—The summit of the range—Bird's-eye view of Tibet—Rubso frozen almost to death—The Lumpiya Pass—Two coolies in distress
28. Chapter XXVI. Mysterious footprints—Brigand or spy?—Passes and tracks—Intense cold—No fuel—A high flat plateau—Fuel at last!—Two spies in disguise—What they took us for
29. Chapter XXVII. Lama Chokden—A Tibetan guard—The sacred Kelas—Reverence of my men for the Sacred Mountain—Trying hard to keep friends with the gods— Obos —Water flowing to us
30. Chapter XXVIII. An extensive valley—Kiang, or wild horse—Their strange ways—The Gyanema fort—Apprehension at our appearance—A parley—"Cut off our heads!"—Revolt and murder contemplated—Hypocritical wa
31. Chapter XXIX. Arrival of a high official—The Barca Tarjum—A tedious palaver—The Tarjum's anxiety—Permission to proceed—A traitor—Entreated to retrace our steps—Thirty armed horsemen—A pretty speech
32. Chapter XXX. Spying our movements—Disguised sepoys—A gloomy look-out—Troublesome followers—Another march back—An amusing incident
33. Chapter XXXI. An attempt that failed—A resolution—A smart Shoka lad—The plucky Chanden Sing proposes to accompany me—Mansing the leper becomes my servant's servant
34. Chapter XXXII. "Devil's Camp"—A fierce snowstorm—Abandoning our tents—Dangers and perils in prospect—Collecting the men—One load too many!—Another man wanted and found—A propitious night—Good-bye to W
35. Chapter XXXIII. S.E. wind—Hungry and half frozen—Lakes at 18,960 feet above sea-level—Cold food at high altitudes—Buried in snow—Mansing's sufferings—Fuel at last
36. Chapter XXXIV. Dacoits—No nonsense allowed—A much-frequented region—A plateau—The Gyanema-Taklakot track—A dangerous spot—Soldiers waiting for us—Burying our baggage—Out of provisions—A fall into the
37. Chapter XXXV. All that remained of my men's provisions—The plan to enter the fort—Appearance of yaks—A band of brigands—Erecting fortifications—Changes in the temperature—Soldiers in search of us!
38. Chapter XXXVI. "Terror Camp"—Two more messengers leave camp—A tribe of Dogpas—A strange sahib—Our messengers return from Taklakot—The account and adventures of their mission—In great distress—Two faki
39. Chapter XXXVII. A Tibetan guard's encampment—Nattoo volunteers to be a guide—Treachery and punishment of the Shokas—All ways forward barred to me—Evading the soldiers by another perilous march at nigh
40. Chapter XXXVIII. Night marching—The Lafan and Mafan Lakes—Tize, the sacred Kelas—Rhubarb—Butterflies—A hermit Lama—More Dacoits—Surrounded by them—Routed
41. Chapter XXXIX. Spied and followed by robbers—Jogpas' hospitality—Hares—Tibetan charms resisted—Attempt to snatch Chanden Sing's rifle out of his hands—The ridge between Rakas and Mansarowar Lakes
42. Chapter XL. More robbers—The friends of Tibetan authorities—A snap-shot—A meek lot—Prepossessing female and her curious ways—The purchase of two yaks
43. Chapter XLI. Tibetan coats, hats, and boots—Why a Tibetan prefers to leave half the chest and one arm bare—Ornamentations—Manner and speech—Ignorance and superstition—Way of eating—Jogpa women and chi
44. Chapter XLII. A Daku's strange ideas—The ridge between the two lakes—Black tents—Confronting the two lakes—A chain of high peaks—Gombas—Change in the weather
45. Chapter XLIII. The Langa Tsangpo—A terrific storm—Drenched to the skin—Heavy marching—Against the gods—Difficulty in finding the Lamasery and village—A bark!—Arrival at last—Gentle tapping—Under a roo
46. Chapter XLIV. The interior of a serai —Vermin—Fish, local jewellery, and pottery for sale—Favourite shapes and patterns—How pottery is made
47. Chapter XLV. Friendly Lamas—Chanden Sing and Mansing purified—Mansing's sarcasm—Pilgrims to Mansarowar and their privileges—For luck!—Outside the Gomba
48. Chapter XLVI. Entering the Lamasery—The Lama's dwelling—Novices—Were we in a trap?—Images—Oblations—Urghin—The holy water, the veil of friendship, and absolution—Musical instruments, books, &c.—God an
49. Chapter XLVII. The Jong Pen's statements regarding me—Sects of Lamas—Lamaseries—Government allowance—Ignorance of the crowds—How Lamas are recruited—Lamas, novices, and menials—Dances and hypnotism—In
50. Chapter XLVIII. Illnesses and remedies—Curious theories about fever—Evil spirits—Blacksmith and dentist—Exorcisms—Surgical operations—Massage and cupping—Incurable illnesses—Deformities—Deafness—Fits
51. Chapter XLIX. A Tibetan medicine-man—Lumbago, and a startling cure for it—Combustible fuses—Fire and butter—Prayers, agony, and distortions—Strange ideas on medicine
52. Chapter L. Tucker village—Chokdens—Houses—Flying prayers—Soldiers or robbers?—A stampede—Fresh provisions—Disappointment—Treachery—Shokas leave me—Observations—Five men, all counted!
53. Chapter LI. The start with a further reduced party—A reconnaissance—Natural fortress—Black tents and animals—On the wrong tack—Slings and their use—A visit to a Tibetan camp—Mistaken for brigands—Barg
54. Chapter LII. What the men were like—Their timidity—Leather work—Metal work—Blades and swords—Filigree—Saddles and harness—Pack saddles
55. Chapter LIII. Rain in torrents—A miserable night—A gorge—A gigantic inscription—Sheltered under boulders—A fresh surprise—Only two followers left
56. Chapter LIV. My time fully occupied—Our own yak drivers—A heavy blow—Along the stream—Soldiers in pursuit of us—Discovered
57. Chapter LV. An interview—Peace or war?—Gifts and the scarf of friendship—The Kata —The end of a friendly visit
58. Chapter LVI. Rain in torrents—A swampy plain—The sun at last—Our yaks stolen and recovered
59. Chapter LVII. Travelling Tibetans—Over a high pass—A friendly meeting—A proffered banquet—Ascent to 20,000 feet—Looking for the Gunkyo Lake—Surprised by a phantom army
60. Chapter LVIII. A sleepless night—Watching our enemy—A picturesque sight—A messenger—Soldiers from Lhassa—Taken for a Kashmeree—The Gunkyo Lake
61. Chapter LIX. In pleasant company—Unpopularity of the Lamas—Soldiers—Towards the Maium Pass—Grass—Threats—Puzzled Tibetans—The Maium Pass—Obos
62. Chapter LX. The Maium Pass—Into the Yutzang province—Its capital—The Doktol province—Orders disregarded—The sources of the Brahmaputra—Change in the climate—The valley of the Brahmaputra—Running risks
63. Chapter LXI. Expecting trouble—Along the Brahmaputra—A thunderstorm—A dilemma—A dangerous river—Swamped—Saved—Night disturbers—A new friend
64. Chapter LXII. Leaving the course of the river—A pass—An arid plain—More vanishing soldiers—Another river—A mani wall— Mirage? —A large Tibetan encampment—The chain of mountains North of us
65. Chapter LXIII. A commotion—An invitation declined—The tents—Delicacies—The Chokseh
66. Chapter LXIV. Refusal to sell food—Women—Their looks and characteristics—The Tchukti —A Lhassa lady
67. Chapter LXV. Polyandry—Marriage ceremonies—Jealousy—Divorce—Identification of children—Courtship—Illegitimacy—Adultery
68. Chapter LXVI. Tibetan funerals—Disposal of their dead—By cremation—By water—Cannibalism—Strange beliefs—Revolting barbarity—Drinking human blood—The saints of Tibet
69. Chapter LXVII. Another commotion—Two hundred soldiers—A stampede—Easy travelling—A long Mani wall—Mosquitoes
70. Chapter LXVIII. Washing-day—A long march— Kiang and antelope—Benighted—The purchase of a goat—Ramifications of the Brahmaputra—A détour—Through a swamp—Mansing again lost and found
71. Chapter LXIX. The alarm given—Our bad manners—A peaceful settlement—A large river—Gigantic peak—Again on marshy soil
72. Chapter LXX. Another Tibetan encampment—Uncontrollable animals—A big stream—Washed away—In dreadful suspense—Rescuing the yak—Diving at great altitudes and its effects—How my two followers got across—
73. Chapter LXXI. Hungry and worn—A sense of humour—Two buckets of milk—No food to be obtained—Chanden Sing and Mansing in a wretched state—Their fidelity—Exhaustion
74. Chapter LXXII. Eighty black tents—Starved—Kindly natives—Presents—Ando and his promises—A friendly Lama—A low pass—My plans
75. Chapter LXXIII. Strange noises—Ando the traitor—Purchasing provisions and ponies—A handsome pony—Decoyed away from my tent and rifles—Pounced upon—The fight—A prisoner
76. Chapter LXXIV. Chanden Sing's plucky resistance—Mansing secured—A signal—A treacherous Lama—Confiscation of baggage—Watches, compasses and aneroids—Fear and avidity—The air-cushion—Dragged into the en
77. Chapter LXXV. A warning to my men—Calm and coolness—The Pombo's tent—Chanden Sing cross-examined and flogged
78. Chapter LXXVI. Led before the tribunal—The Pombo—Classical Tibetan beyond me—Chanden Sing lashed—The Lamas puzzled—A sudden change in the Pombo's attitude
79. Chapter LXXVII. My note-books and maps—What the Lamas wanted me to say—My refusal—Anger and threats—Ando, the traitor—Chanden Sing's heroism—A scene of cruelty—Rain
80. Chapter LXXVIII. A high military officer—A likely friend—A soldier and not a Lama—His sympathy—Facts about the Tibetan army
81. Chapter LXXIX. Sarcasm appreciated—Kindness—A change for the worse—The place for an Englishman—Vermin—A Tibetan prayer
82. Chapter LXXX. The Rupun as a friend—Treated with respect and deference—Fed by the Rupun and soldiers—Improving my knowledge of Tibetan
83. Chapter LXXXI. A bearer of bad news—Marched off to the mud-house—Mansing—Insults and humiliations—Iron handcuffs instead of ropes—The Rupun's sympathy—No more hope—In the hands of the mob
84. Chapter LXXXII. A pitiful scene—A struggle to get to Chanden Sing—Brutally treated—A torturing saddle—Across country at a gallop—A spirited pony—Sand deposits and hills—Speculation—More horsemen comin
85. Chapter LXXXIII. At an unpleasant pace—Drawing near the cavalcade—A picturesque sight—A shot fired at me—Terrible effects of the spikes along my spine—The rope breaks—An ill omen—A second shot misses
86. Chapter LXXXIV. Intense pain—Hustled to the execution-ground—Stretched and tied—Thirsting for blood—A parade of torturing appliances—The music—The Taram
87. Chapter LXXXV. Bleeding all over—Insulted and spat upon—"Kill him!"—Urging on the executioner—Refusal to stoop—An unpleasant sword exercise—The execution suspended
88. Chapter LXXXVI. Mansing arrives—A pretence of killing him—Our execution postponed—Fed by the Lamas
89. Chapter LXXXVII. Happiness checked—Stretched on the rack—Mansing shares my fate—Drenched and in rags—An unsolved mystery
90. Chapter LXXXVIII. Mansing partially untied after twelve hours on the rack—Numbed—How the brain works under such circumstances—My scientific instruments—The end of my photographic plates—A paint-box ac
91. Chapter LXXXIX. An unknown article in Tibet—My sponge bewitched—A Lama fires my Martini-Henry—The rifle bursts
92. Chapter XC. A consultation—Untied from the rack—The most terrible twenty-four hours of my life—I lose the use of my feet—Circulation returning—Intense pain—Sports
93. Chapter XCI. A great relief—The Pombo's attentions—A weird hypnotic dance
94. Chapter XCII. Compliments exchanged—A poisoned drink proffered—In acute pain—Uncertainty as to our fate—Working the oracle—My webbed fingers
95. Chapter XCIII. Our lives to be spared—An unpleasant march—Chanden Sing still alive—A sleepless night—Towards the frontier—Long and painful marches—How we slept at night—A map drawn with blood
96. Chapter XCIV. South of the outward journey—Severity of our guard—Ventriloquism and its effects—Terrible but instructive days—The Southern source of the Brahmaputra—Leaving Yutzang
97. Chapter XCV. Easier times—Large encampments—Suffocating a goat—A Tarjum's encampment—Tokchim—Old friends—Musicians—Charity
98. Chapter XCVI. Towards Mansarowar—Mansing's vision—Bathing in Mansarowar
99. Chapter XCVII. Suna—Wilson and the Political Peshkar across the frontier—A messenger—Our progress stopped—Diverting us over the Lumpiya Pass—Condemned to certain death—We attack our guard—Lapsang and
100. Chapter XCVIII. A Commotion—The arrival of an army—Elected General-in-chief—How we were to slaughter the Jong Pen's soldiers—My men lay down their arms—Towards Taklakot—Delaling and Sibling—Taklakot a
101. Chapter XCIX. Free at last—Among friends—Forgetting our past troubles—Confiscated baggage returned—A scene with Nerba—Suna's message delivered—How our release was brought about—Across the frontier—Pho
102. Chapter C. Civilisation once more—Paralysis—The Tinker Pass in Nepal—Kindly natives—Mr. Larkin—Government Inquiry—Back to Tibet—Final good-bye to the Forbidden Land—The return journey—Farewell to Mans
103. Appendix
104. Index of Authors
105. The Works of Lord Byron
106. Literatures of the World

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