Henley’s Book of Recipes (part 4)

I.—Two ounces Jamaica ginger; 2 ounces black peppercorns; 1 ounce mustard seed; 1 ounce coriander fruit (seed); 1 ounce pimento (allspice); / 2 ounce mace; / 2 ounce cloves; / 2 ounce nutmegs; / 2 ounce chili pods; 3 drachms cardamom seeds; 4 ounces garlic; 4 ounces eschalots; 4 pints malt vinegar.

Bruise spices, garlic, etc., and boil in vinegar for 15 minutes and strain. To this add 2 / 2 pints mushroom ketchup; 1 / 2 pints India soy.

Again simmer for 15 minutes and strain through muslin.

II.—One pound soy; 50 ounces best vinegar; 4 ounces ketchup; 4 ounces garlic; 4 ounces eschalots; 4 ounces capsicum; / 2 ounce cloves; / 2 ounce mace; / 4 ounce cinnamon; 1 drachm cardamom seeds. Boil well and strain.

Lincolnshire Relish.

—Two ounces garlic; 2 ounces Jamaica ginger; 3 ounces black peppercorns; / 4 ounce cayenne pepper; / 4 ounce ossein; / 4 ounce nutmeg; 2 ounces salt; 1 / 2 pints India soy. Enough malt vinegar to make 1 gallon. Bruise spices, garlic, etc., and simmer in / 2 a gallon of vinegar for 20 minutes, strain and add soy and sufficient vinegar to make 1 gallon, then boil for 5 minutes. Keep in bulk as long as possible.

Curry Powder.—

I.— Coriander seed 6 drachms

Turmeric 5 scruples

Fresh ginger 4 / 2 drachms

Cumin seed 18 grains

Black pepper 54 grains

Poppy seed 94 grains

Garlic 2 heads

Cinnamon 1 scruple

Cardamom 5 seeds

Cloves 8 only

Chillies 1 or 2 pods

Grated cocoanut / 2 nut

II.— Coriander seed / 4 pound

Turmeric / 4 pound

Cinnamon seed 2 ounces

Cayenne / 2 ounce

Mustard 1 ounce

Ground ginger 1 ounce

Allspice / 2 ounce

Fenugreek seed 2 ounces

Table Sauces:

Worcestershire Sauce.—

Pimento 2 drachms

Clove 1 drachm

Black pepper 1 drachm

Ginger 1 drachm

Curry powder 1 ounce

Capsicum 1 drachm

Mustard 2 ounces

Shallots, bruised 2 ounces

Salt 2 ounces

Brown sugar 8 ounces

Tamarinds 4 ounces

Sherry wine 1 pint

Wine vinegar 2 pints

The spices must be freshly bruised. The ingredients are to simmer together with the vinegar for an hour, adding more of the vinegar as it is lost by evaporation; then add the wine, and if desired some caramel coloring. Set aside for a week, strain, and bottle.

Table Sauce.

—Brown sugar, 16 parts; tamarinds, 16 parts; onions, 4 parts; powdered ginger, 4 parts; salt, 4 parts; garlic, 2 parts; cayenne, 2 parts; soy, 2 parts; ripe apples, 64 parts; mustard powder, 2 parts; curry powder, 1 part; vinegar, quantity sufficient. Pare and core the apples, boil them in sufficient vinegar with the tamarinds and raisins until soft, then pulp through a fine sieve. Pound the onions and garlic in a mortar and add the pulp to that of the apples. Then add the other ingredients and vinegar, 60 parts; heat to boiling, cool, and add sherry wine, 10 parts, and enough vinegar to make the sauce just pourable. If a sweet sauce is desired add sufficient treacle before the final boiling.

Epicure’s Sauce.

—Eight ounces tamarinds; 12 ounces sultana raisins; 2 ounces garlic; 4 ounces eschalots; 4 ounces horse-radish root; 2 ounces black pepper; / 2 ounce chili pods; 3 ounces raw Jamaica ginger; 1 / 2 pounds golden syrup; 1 pound burnt sugar (caramel); 1 ounce powdered cloves; 1 pint India soy; 1 gallon malt vinegar. Bruise roots, spices, etc., and boil in vinegar for 15 minutes, then strain. To the strained liquor add golden syrup, soy, and burnt sugar, then simmer for 10 minutes.

Piccalilli Sauce.

—One drachm chili pods; 1 / 2 ounces black peppercorns; / 2 ounce pimento; / 4 ounce garlic; / 2 gallon malt vinegar. Bruise spices and garlic, boil in the vinegar for 10 minutes, and strain.

One ounce ground Jamaica ginger; 1 ounce turmeric; 2 ounces flower of mustard; 2 ounces powdered natal arrowroot; 8 ounces strong acetic acid. Rub powders in a mortar with acetic acid and add to above, then boil for 5 minutes, or until it thickens.

Flavoring Spices.

I.—Five ounces powdered cinnamon bark; 2 / 2 ounces powdered cloves; 2 / 2 {214} ounces powdered nutmegs; 1 / 4 ounces powdered caraway seeds; 1 / 4 ounces powdered coriander seeds; 1 ounce powdered Jamaica ginger; / 2 ounce powdered allspice. Let all be dry and in fine powder. Mix and pass through a sieve.

II.—Pickling Spice.—Ten pounds small Jamaica ginger; 2 / 2 pounds black peppercorns; 1 / 2 pounds white peppercorns; 1 / 2 pounds allspice; / 4 pound long pepper; 1 / 4 pounds mustard seed; / 2 pound chili pods. Cut up ginger and long pepper into small pieces, and mix all the other ingredients intimately.

One ounce to each pint of boiling vinegar is sufficient, but it may be made stronger if desired hot.

Essence Of Savory Spices.

—Two and one-half ounces black peppercorns; 1 ounce pimento; / 4 ounce nutmeg; / 2 ounce mace; / 2 ounce cloves; / 4 ounce cinnamon bark; / 4 ounce caraway seeds; 20 grains cayenne pepper; 15 ounces spirit of wine; 5 ounces distilled water. Bruise all the spices and having mixed spirit and water, digest in mixture 14 days, shaking frequently, then filter.

Mustard:

The Prepared Mustards Of Commerce.

—The mustard, i. e., the flower or powdered seed, used in preparing the different condiments, is derived from three varieties of Brassica (Cruciferæ)—Brassica alba L., Brassica nigra, and Brassica juncea. The first yields the “white” seed of commerce, which produces a mild mustard; the second the “black” seed, yielding the more pungent powder; and the latter a very pungent and oily mustard, much employed by Russians. The pungency of the condiment is also affected by the method of preparing the paste, excessive heat destroying the sharpness completely. The pungency is further controlled and tempered, in the cold processes, by the addition of wheat or rye flour, which also has the advantage of serving as a binder of the mustard. The mustard flour is prepared by first decorticating the seed, then grinding to a fine powder, the expression of the fixed oil from which completes the process. This oil, unlike the volatile, is of a mild, pleasant taste, and of a greenish color, which, it is said, makes it valuable in the sophistication and imitation of “olive” oils, refined, cottonseed, or peanut oil being thus converted into huile vierge de Lucca, Florence, or some other noted brand of olive oil. It is also extensively used for illuminating purposes, especially in southern Russia.

The flavors, other than that of the mustard itself, of the various preparations are imparted by the judicious use of spices—cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, pimento, etc.—aromatic herbs, such as thyme, sage, chervil, parsley, mint, marjoram, tarragon, etc., and finally chives, onions, shallots, leeks, garlic, etc.

In preparing the mustards on a large scale, the mustard flower and wheat or rye flour are mixed and ground to a smooth paste with vinegar, must (unfermented grape juice), wine, or whatever is used in the preparation, a mill similar to a drug or paint mill being used for the purpose. This dough immediately becomes spongy, and in this condition, technically called “cake,” is used as the basis of the various mustards of commerce.

Mustard Cakes.

—In the mixture, the amount of flour used depends on the pungency of the mustard flower, and the flavor desired to be imparted to the finished product. The cakes are broadly divided into the yellow and the brown. A general formula for the yellow cake is:

Yellow mustard, from 20 to 30 per cent; salt, from 1 to 3 per cent; spices, from / 4 to / 2 of 1 per cent; wheat flour, from 8 to 12 per cent.

Vinegar, must, or wine, complete the mixture.

The brown cake is made with black mustard, and contains about the following proportions:

Black mustard, from 20 to 30 per cent; salt, from 1 to 3 per cent; spices, from / 4 to / 2 of 1 per cent; wheat or rye flour, from 10 to 15 per cent.

The variations are so wide, however, that it is impossible to give exact proportions. In the manufacture of table mustards, in fact, as in every other kind of manufacture, excellence is attained only by practice and the exercise of sound judgment and taste by the manufacturer.

Moutarde Des Jesuittes.

—Twelve sardels and 280 capers are crushed into a paste and stirred into 3 pints of boiling wine vinegar. Add 4 ounces of brown cake and 8 ounces of yellow cake and mix well.

Kirschner Wine Mustard.

—Reduce 30 quarts of freshly expressed grape juice to half that quantity, by boiling over a moderate fire, on a water bath. Dissolve in the boiling liquid 5 pounds of sugar, and pour the syrup through a colander containing 2 or 3 large horse-radishes cut {215} into very thin slices and laid on a coarse towel spread over the bottom and sides of the colander. To the colate add the following, all in a state of fine powder:

Cardamom seeds 2 / 2 drachms

Nutmeg 2 / 2 drachms

Cloves 4 / 2 drachms

Cinnamon 1 ounce

Ginger 1 ounce

Brown mustard cake 6 pounds

Yellow mustard cake 9 pounds

Grind all together to a perfectly smooth paste, and strain several times through muslin.

Duesseldorff Mustard.—

Brown mustard cake 10 ounces

Yellow mustard cake 48 ounces

Boiling water 96 ounces

Wine vinegar 64 ounces

Cinnamon 5 drachms

Cloves 15 drachms

Sugar 64 ounces

Wine, good white 64 ounces

Mix after the general directions given above.

German Table Mustard.—

Laurel leaves 8 ounces

Cinnamon 5 drachms

Cardamom seeds 2 drachms

Sugar 64 ounces

Wine vinegar 96 ounces

Brown cake 10 ounces

Yellow cake 48 ounces

Mix after general directions as given above.

Krems Mustard, Sweet.—

Yellow cake 10 pounds

Brown cake 20 pounds

Fresh grape juice 6 pints

Mix and boil down to the proper consistency.

Krems Mustard, Sour.—

Brown mustard flour 30 parts

Yellow mustard flour 10 parts

Grape juice, fresh 8 parts

Mix and boil down to a paste and then stir in 8 parts of wine vinegar.

Tarragon Mustard.—

Brown mustard flour 40 parts

Yellow mustard flour 20 parts

Vinegar 6 parts

Tarragon vinegar 6 parts

Boil the mustard in the vinegar and add the tarragon vinegar.

Tarragon Mustard, Sharp.

—This is prepared by adding to every 100 pounds of the above 21 ounces of white pepper, 5 ounces of pimento, and 2 / 2 ounces of cloves, mixing thoroughly by grinding together in a mill, then put in a warm spot and let stand for 10 days or 2 weeks. Finally strain.

Moutarde Aux Epices.—

Mustard flour, yellow 10 pounds

Mustard flour, brown 40 pounds

Tarragon 1 pound

Basil, herb 5 ounces

Laurel leaves 12 drachms

White pepper 3 ounces

Cloves 12 drachms

Mace 2 drachms

Vinegar 1 gallon

Mix the herbs and macerate them in the vinegar to exhaustion, then add to the mustards, and grind together. Set aside for a week or ten days, then strain through muslin.

In all the foregoing formulas where the amount of salt is not specified, it is to be added according to the taste or discretion of the manufacturer.

Mustard Vinegar.—

Celery, chopped fine 32 parts

Tarragon, the fresh herb 6 parts

Cloves, coarsely powdered 6 parts

Onions, chopped fine 6 parts

Lemon peel, fresh, chopped fine 3 parts

White-wine vinegar 575 parts

White wine 515 parts

Mustard seed, crushed 100 parts

Mix and macerate together for a week or 10 days in a warm place, then strain off.

Ravigotte Mustard.—

Parsley 2 parts

Chervil 2 parts

Chives 2 parts

Cloves 1 part

Garlic 1 part

Thyme 1 part

Tarragon 1 part

Salt 8 parts

Olive oil 4 parts

White-wine vinegar 128 parts

Mustard flower, sufficient

Cut or bruise the plants and spices, and macerate them in the vinegar for 15 or 20 days. Strain the liquid through a cloth and add the salt. Rub up mustard with the olive oil in a vessel set in ice, adding a little of the spiced vinegar from time to time, until the whole is incorporated and the complete mixture makes 384 parts. {216}

CONDIMENTS, TESTS FOR ADULTERATED: See Foods.

CONDITION POWDERS FOR CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas.

CONDUCTIVITY OF ALUMINUM ALLOYS: See Alloys.

Confectionery

Cream Bonbons For Hoarseness.

—Stir into 500 parts of cream 500 parts of white sugar. Put in a pan and cook, with continuous stirring, until it becomes brown and viscid. Now put in a baking tin and smooth out, as neatly as possible, to the thickness of, say, twice that of the back of a table knife and let it harden. Before it gets completely hard draw lines with a knife across the surface in such manner that when it is quite hard it will break along them, easily, into bits the size of a lozenge.

Nut Candy Sticks.

—Cook to 320° F. 8 pounds best sugar in 2 pints water, with 4 pounds glucose added. Pour out on an oiled slab and add 5 pounds almonds, previously blanched, cut in small pieces, and dried in the drying room. Mix up well together to incorporate the nuts thoroughly with the sugar. When it has cooled enough to be handled, form into a round mass on the slab and spin out in long, thin sticks.

Fig Squares.

—Place 5 pounds of sugar and 5 pounds of glucose in a copper pan, with water enough to dissolve the sugar. Set on the fire, and when it starts to boil add 5 pounds of ground figs. Stir and cook to 240° on the thermometer. Set off the fire, and then add 5 pounds of fine cocoanuts; mix well and pour out on greased marble, roll smooth, and cut like caramels.

Caramels.

—Heat 10 pounds sugar and 8 pounds glucose in a copper kettle until dissolved. Add cream to the mixture, at intervals, until 2 / 2 quarts are used. Add 2 / 4 pounds caramel butter and 12 ounces paraffine wax to the mixture. Cook to a rather stiff ball, add nuts, pour out between iron bars and, when cool enough, cut into strips. For the white ones flavor with vanilla, and add 2 pounds melted chocolate liquor for the chocolate caramel when nearly cooked.

Candy Orange Drops.

—It is comparatively easy to make a hard candy, but to put the material into “drop” form apparently requires experience and a machine. To make the candy itself, put, say, a pint of water into a suitable pan or kettle, heat to boiling, and add gradually to it 2 pounds or more of sugar, stirring well so as to avoid the risk of burning the sugar. Continue boiling the syrup so formed until a little of it poured on a cold slab forms a mass of the required hardness. If the candy is to be of orange flavor, a little fresh oil of orange is added just before the mass is ready to set and the taste is improved according to the general view at least by adding, also, say, 2 drachms of citric acid dissolved in a very little water. As a coloring an infusion of safflower or tincture of turmeric is used.

To make such a mass into tablets, it is necessary only to pour out on a well-greased slab, turning the edges back if inclined to run, until the candy is firm, and then scoring with a knife so that it can easily be broken into pieces when cold. To make “drops” a suitable mold is necessary.

Experiment as to the sufficiency of the boiling in making candy may be saved and greater certainty of a good result secured by the use of a chemical thermometer. As the syrup is boiled and the water evaporates the temperature of the liquid rises. When it reaches 220° F., the sugar is then in a condition to yield the “thread” form; at 240° “soft ball” is formed; at 245°, “hard ball”; at 252°, “crack”; and at 290°, “hard crack.” By simply suspending the thermometer in the liquid and observing it from time to time, one may know exactly when to end the boiling.

Gum Drops.

—Grind 25 pounds of Arabian or Senegal gum, place it in a copper pan or in a steam jacket kettle, and pour 3 gallons of boiling water over it; stir it up well. Now set the pan with the gum into another pan containing boiling water and stir the gum slowly until dissolved, then strain it through a No. 40 sieve. Cook 19 pounds of sugar with sufficient water, 2 pounds of glucose, and a teaspoonful of cream of tartar to a stiff ball, pour it over the gum, mix well, set the pan on the kettle with the hot water, and let it steam for 1 / 2 hours, taking care that the water in the kettle does not run dry; then open the door of the stove and cover the fire with ashes, and let the gum settle for nearly an hour, then remove the scum which has settled on top, flavor and run out with the {217} funnel dropper into the starch impressions, and place the trays in the drying room for 2 days, or until dry; then take the drops out of the starch, clean them off well and place them in crystal pans, one or two layers. Cook sugar and water to 34 / 2° on the syrup gauge and pour over the drops lukewarm. Let stand in a moderately warm place over night, then drain the syrup off, and about an hour afterwards knock the gum drops out on a clean table, pick them apart, and place on trays until dry, when they are ready for sale.

A Good Summer Taffy.

—Place in a kettle 4 pounds of sugar, 3 pounds of glucose, and 1 / 2 pints of water; when it boils drop in a piece of butter half the size of an egg and about 2 ounces of paraffine wax. Cook to 262°, pour on a slab, and when cool enough, pull, flavor, and color if you wish. Pull until light, then spin out on the table in strips about 3 inches wide and cut into 4- or 4 / 2-inch lengths. Then wrap in wax paper for the counter. This taffy keeps long without being grained by the heat.

Chewing Candy.

—Place 20 pounds of sugar in a copper pan, add 20 pounds of glucose, and enough water to easily dissolve the sugar. Set on the fire or cook in the steam pan in 2 quarts of water. Have a pound of egg albumen soaked in 2 quarts of water. Beat this like eggs into a very stiff froth, add gradually the sugar and glucose; when well beaten up, add 5 pounds of powdered sugar, and beat at very little heat either in the steam beater or on a pan of boiling water until light, and does not stick to the back of the hand, flavor with vanilla, and put in trays dusted with fine sugar. When cold it may be cut, or else it may be stretched out on a sugar-dusted table, cut, and wrapped in wax paper. This chewing candy has to be kept in a very dry place, or else it will run and get sticky.

Montpelier Cough Drops.—

Brown sugar 10 pounds

Tartaric acid 2 ounces

Cream of tartar / 2 ounce

Water 1 / 2 quarts

Anise-seed flavoring, quantity sufficient

Melt the sugar in the water, and when at a sharp boil add the cream of tartar. Cover the pan for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and let the sugar boil up to crack degree. Turn out the batch on an oiled slab, and when cool enough to handle mold in the acid and flavoring. Pass it through the acid drop rollers, and when the drops are chipped up, and before sifting, rub some icing with them.

Medicated Cough Drops.—

Light-brown sugar 14 pounds

Tartaric acid 1 / 2 ounces

Cream of tartar / 2 ounce

Water 2 quarts

Anise-seed, cayenne, clove, and peppermint flavoring, a few drops of each.

Proceed as before prescribed, but when sufficiently cool pass the batch through the acid tablet rollers and dust with sugar.

Horehound Candy.—

Dutch crushed sugar 10 pounds

Dried horehound leaves 2 ounces

Cream of tartar / 4 ounce

Water 2 quarts

Anise-seed flavoring, quantity sufficient.

Pour the water on the leaves and let it gently simmer till reduced to 3 pints; then strain the infusion through muslin, and add the liquid to the sugar. Put the pan containing the syrup on the fire, and when at a sharp boil add the cream of tartar. Put the lid on the pan for 5 minutes; then remove it, and let the sugar boil to stiff boil degree. Take the pan off the fire and rub portions of the sugar against the side until it produces a creamy appearance; then add the flavoring. Stir all well, and pour into square tin frames, previously well oiled.

Menthol Cough Drops.—

Gelatin 1 ounce

Glycerine (by weight) 2 / 2 ounces

Orange-flower water 2 / 2 ounces

Menthol 5 grains

Rectified spirits 1 drachm

Soak the gelatin in the water for 2 hours, then heat on a water bath until dissolved, and add 1 / 2 ounces of glycerine. Dissolve the menthol in the spirit, mix with the remainder of the glycerine, add to the glyco-gelatin mass, and pour into an oiled tin tray (such as the lid of a biscuit box). When the mass is cold divide into 10 dozen pastilles.

Menthol pastilles are said to be an excellent remedy for tickling cough as well as laryngitis. They should be freshly prepared, and cut oblong, so that the patient may take half of one, or less, as may be necessary.

Violet Flavor For Candy.

—Violet flavors, like violet perfumes, are very complex mixtures, and their imitation is a {218} correspondingly difficult undertaking. The basis is vanilla (or vanillin), rose, and orris, with a very little of some pungent oil to bring up the flavor. The following will give a basis upon which a satisfactory flavor may be built:

Oil of orris 1 drachm

Oil of rose 1 drachm

Vanillin 2 drachms

Cumarin 30 grains

Oil of clove 30 minims

Alcohol 11 ounces

Water 5 ounces

Make a solution, adding the water last.

Confectionery Colors.

—The following are excellent and entirely harmless coloring agents for the purposes named:

Red.

—Cochineal syrup prepared as follows:

Cochineal, in coarse powder 6 parts

Potassium carbonate 2 parts

Distilled water 15 parts

Alcohol 12 parts

Simple syrup enough to make 500 parts

Rub up the potassium carbonate and the cochineal together, adding the water and alcohol, little by little, under constant trituration. Set aside over night, then add the syrup and filter.

Pink.—

Carmine 1 part

Liquor potassæ 6 parts

Rose water, enough to make 48 parts

Mix. Should the color be too high, dilute with water until the requisite tint is acquired.

Orange.

—Tincture of red sandalwood, 1 part; ethereal tincture of orlean, quantity sufficient. Add the tincture of orlean to the sandalwood tincture until the desired shade of orange is obtained.

A red added to any of the yellows gives an orange color.

The aniline colors made by the “Aktiengesellschaft für Anilin-Fabrikation,” of Berlin, are absolutely non-toxic, and can be used for the purposes recommended, i. e., the coloration of syrups, cakes, candies, etc., with perfect confidence in their innocuity.

Pastille Yellow.—

Citron yellow II 7 parts

Grape sugar, first quality 1 part

White dextrine 2 parts

Sap-blue Paste.—

Dark blue 3 parts

Grape sugar 1 part

Water 6 parts

Sugar-black Paste.—

Carbon black 3 parts

Grape sugar 1 part

Water 6 parts

Cinnabar Red.*—

Scarlet 65 parts

White dextrine 30 parts

Potato flour 5 parts

Bluish Rose.*—

Grenadine 65 parts

White dextrine 30 parts

Potato flour 5 parts

Yellowish Rose.—

Rosa II 60 parts

Citron yellow 5 parts

White dextrine 30 parts

Potato flour 5 parts

Violet.—

Red violet 65 parts

White dextrine 30 parts

Potato flour 5 parts

Carmine Green.—

Woodruff (Waldmeister) green 55 parts

Rosa II 5 parts

Dextrine 35 parts

Potato flour 5 parts

To the colors marked with an asterisk (*) add, for every 4 pounds, 4 / 2 ounces, a grain and a half each of potassium iodide and sodium nitrate. Colors given in form of powders should be dissolved in hot water for use.

Yellow.

—Various shades of yellow may be obtained by the maceration of Besiello saffron, or turmeric, or grains d’Avignon in alcohol until a strong tincture is obtained. Dilute with water until the desired shade is obtained. An aqueous solution of quercitrine also gives an excellent yellow.

Blue.—

Indigo carmine 1 part

Water 2 parts

Mix.

Indigo carmine is a beautiful, powerful, and harmless agent. It may usually be bought commercially, but if it cannot be readily obtained, proceed as follows:

Into a capsule put 30 grains of indigo in powder, place on a water bath, and heat to dryness. When entirely dry put {219} into a large porcelain mortar (the substance swells enormously under subsequent treatment—hence the necessity for a large, or comparatively large, mortar) and cautiously add, drop by drop, 120 grains, by weight, of sulphuric acid, C. P., stirring continuously during the addition. Cover the swollen mass closely, and set aside for 24 hours. Now add 3 fluidounces of distilled water, a few drops at a time, rubbing or stirring continuously. Transfer the liquid thus obtained to a tall, narrow, glass cylinder or beaker, cover and let stand for 4 days, giving the liquid an occasional stirring. Make a strong solution of sodium carbonate or bicarbonate, and at the end of the time named cautiously neutralize the liquid, adding the carbonate a little at a time, stirring the indigo solution and testing it after each addition, as the least excess of alkali will cause the indigo to separate out, and fall in a doughy mass. Stop when the test shows the near approach of neutrality, as the slight remaining acidity will not affect the taste or the properties of the liquid. Filter, and evaporate in the water bath to dryness. The resultant matter is sulphindigotate of potassium, or the “indigo carmine” of commerce.

Tincture of indigo may also be used as a harmless blue.

Green.

—The addition of the solution indigo carmine to an infusion of any of the matters given under “yellow” will produce a green color. Tincture of crocus and glycerine in equal parts, with the addition of indigo-carmine solution, also gives a fine green. A solution of commercial chlorophyll gives grass-green, in shades varying according to the concentration of the solution.

Voice And Throat Lozenges.—

Catechu 191 grains

Tannic acid 273 grains

Tartaric acid 273 grains

Capsicin 30 minims

Black-currant paste 7 ounces

Refined sugar, Mucilage of acacia, of each a sufficient quantity.

Mix to produce 7 pounds of lozenges.

CONSTIPATION IN BIRDS: See Veterinary Formulas.

COOKING TABLE: See Tables.

COOLING SCREEN: See Refrigeration.

Copper

Annealing Copper.—

Copper is almost universally annealed in muffles, in which it is raised to the desired temperature, and subsequently allowed to cool either in the air or in water. A muffle is nothing more or less than a reverberatory furnace. It is necessary to watch the copper carefully, so that when it has reached the right temperature it may be drawn from the muffle and allowed to cool. This is important, for if the copper is heated too high, or is left in the muffle at the ordinary temperature of annealing too long, it is burnt, as the workmen say. Copper that has been burnt is yellow, coarsely granular, and exceedingly brittle—even more brittle at a red heat than when cold.

In the case of coarse wire it is found that only the surface is burnt, while the interior is damaged less. This causes the exterior to split loose from the interior when bent or rolled, thus giving the appearance of a brittle copper tube with a copper wire snugly fitted into it. Cracks a half inch in depth have been observed on the surface of an ingot on its first pass through the rolls, all due to this exterior burning. It is apparent that copper that has been thus overheated in the muffle is entirely unfit for rolling. It is found that the purer forms of copper are less liable to be harmed by overheating than samples containing even a small amount of impurities. Even the ordinary heating in a muffle will often suffice to burn in this manner the surface of some specimens of copper, rendering them unfit for further working. Copper that has been thus ruined is of use only to be refined again.

As may be inferred only the highest grades of refined copper are used for drawing or for rolling. This is not because the lower grades, when refined, cannot stand sufficiently high tests, but because methods of working are not adequate to prevent these grades of copper from experiencing the deterioration due to overheating.

The process of refining copper consists in an oxidizing action followed by a reducing action which, since it is performed by the aid of gases generated by stirring the melted copper with a pole, is called poling. The object of the oxidation is to oxidize and either volatilize or turn to slag all the impurities contained in the copper. This procedure is materially aided by the fact that the {220} suboxide of copper is freely soluble in metallic copper and thus penetrates to all parts of the copper, and parting with its oxygen, oxidizes the impurities. The object of the reducing part of the refining process is to change the excess of the suboxide of copper to metallic copper. Copper containing even less than 1 per cent of the suboxide of copper shows decreased malleability and ductility, and is both cold-short and red-short. If the copper to be refined contains any impurities, such as arsenic or antimony, it is well not to remove too much of the oxygen in the refining process. If this is done, overpoled copper is produced. In this condition it is brittle, granular, of a shining yellow color, and more red-short than cold-short. When the refining has been properly done, and neither too much nor too little oxygen is present, the copper is in the condition of “tough pitch,” and is in a fit state to be worked.

Copper is said to be “tough pitch” when it requires frequent bending to break it, and when, after it is broken, the color is pale red, the fracture has a silky luster, and is fibrous like a tuft of silk. On hammering a piece to a thin plate it should show no cracks at the edge. At tough pitch copper offers the highest degree of malleability and ductility of which a given specimen is capable. This is the condition in which refined copper is (or should be) placed on the market, and if it could be worked without changing this tough pitch, any specimen of copper that could be brought to this condition would be suitable for rolling or drawing. But tough pitch is changed if oxygen is either added or taken from refined copper.

By far the more important of these is the removal of oxygen, especially from those specimens that contain more than a mere trace of impurities. This is shown by the absolutely worthless condition of overpoled copper. The addition of carbon also plays a very important part in the production of overpoled copper.

That the addition of oxygen to refined copper is not so damaging is shown by the fact that at present nearly all the copper that is worked is considerably oxidized at some stage of the process, and not especially to its detriment.

Burnt copper is nothing more or less than copper in the overpoled condition. This is brought about by the action of reducing gases in the muffle. By this means the small amount of oxygen necessary to give the copper its tough pitch is removed. This oxygen is combined with impurities in the copper, and thus renders them inert. For example, the oxide of arsenic or antimony is incapable of combining more than mechanically with the copper, but when its oxygen is removed the arsenic or antimony is left free to combine with the copper. This forms a brittle alloy, and one that corresponds almost exactly in its properties with overpoled copper. To be sure overpoled copper is supposed to contain carbon, but that this is not the essential ruling principle in case of annealing is shown by the fact that pure copper does not undergo this change under conditions that ruin impure copper, and also by the fact that the same state may be produced by annealing in pure hydrogen and thus removing the oxygen that renders the arsenic or antimony inert. No attempt is made to deny the well-known fact that carbon does combine with copper to the extent of 0.2 per cent and cause it to become exceedingly brittle. It is simply claimed that this is probably not what occurs in the production of so-called burnt copper during annealing. The amount of impurities capable of rendering copper easily burnt is exceedingly small. This may be better appreciated when it is considered that from 0.01 to 0.2 per cent expresses the amount of oxygen necessary to render the impurities inert. The removal of this very small amount of oxygen, which is often so small as to be almost within the limits of the errors of analysis, will suffice to render copper overpoled and ruin it for any use.

There are methods of avoiding the numerous accidents that may occur in the annealing of copper, due to a change of pitch. As already pointed out, the quality of refined copper is lowered if oxygen be either added to or taken from it. It is quite apparent, therefore, that a really good method of annealing copper will prevent any change in the state of oxidation. It is necessary to prevent access to the heated copper both of atmospheric air, which would oxidize it, and of the reducing gases used in heating the muffle, which would take oxygen away from it. Obviously the only way of accomplishing this is to inclose the copper when heated and till cool in an atmosphere that can neither oxidize nor deoxidize copper. By so doing copper may be heated to the melting point and allowed to cool again without suffering as regards its pitch. There are comparatively few gases that can be used for this purpose, but, fortunately, one which is exceedingly cheap and universally {221} prevalent fulfills all requirements, viz., steam. In order to apply the principles enunciated it is necessary only to anneal copper in the ordinary annealing pots such as are used for iron, care being taken to inclose the copper while heating and while cooling in an atmosphere of steam. This will effectually exclude air and prevent the ingress of gases used in heating the annealer. Twenty-four hours may be used in the process, as in the annealing of iron wire, with no detriment to the wire. This may seem incredible to those manufacturers who have tried to anneal copper wire after the manner of annealing iron wire. By this method perfectly bright annealed wire may be produced. Such a process of annealing copper offers many advantages. It allows the use of a grade of copper that has hitherto been worked only at a great disadvantage, owing to its tendency to get out of pitch. It allows the use of annealers such as are ordinarily employed for annealing iron, and thus cheapens the annealing considerably as compared with the present use of muffles. There is no chance of producing the overpoled condition from the action of reducing gases used in heating the muffles. There is no chance of producing the underpoled condition due to the absorption of suboxide of copper. None of the metal is lost as scale, and the saving that is thus effected amounts to a considerable percentage of the total value of the copper. The expense and time of cleaning are wholly saved. Incidentally bright annealed copper is produced by a process which is applicable to copper of any shape, size, or condition—a product that has hitherto been obtained only by processes (mostly secret) which are too cumbersome and too expensive for extensive use; and, as is the case with at least one process, with the danger of producing the overpoled condition, often in only a small section of the wire, but thus ruining the whole piece.

Copper Coloring:

Blacking Copper.

—To give a copper article a black covering, clean it with emery paper, heat gently in a Bunsen or a spirit flame, immerse for 10 seconds in solution of copper filings in dilute nitric acid, and heat again.

Red Coloring Of Copper.

—A fine red color may be given to copper by gradually heating it in an air bath. Prolonged heating at a comparatively low temperature, or rapid heating at a high temperature, produces the same result. As soon as the desired color is attained the metal should be rapidly cooled by quenching in water. The metal thus colored may be varnished.

To Dye Copper Parts Violet And Orange.

—Polished copper acquires an orange-like color leaning to gold, when dipped for a few seconds into a solution of crystallized copper acetate. A handsome violet is obtained by placing the metal for a few minutes in a solution of antimony chloride and rubbing it afterwards with a piece of wood covered with cotton. During this operation the copper must be heated to a degree bearable to the hand. A crystalline appearance is produced by boiling the article in copper sulphate.

Pickle For Copper.

—Take nitric acid, 100 parts; kitchen salt, 2 parts; calcined soot, 2 parts; or nitric acid, 10 parts; sulphuric acid, 10 parts; hydrochloric acid, 1 part. As these bleaching baths attack the copper quickly, the objects must be left in only for a few seconds, washing them afterwards in plenty of water, and drying in sawdust, bran, or spent tan.

Preparations Of Copper Water.

—I.—Water, 1,000 parts; oxalic acid, 30 parts; spirit of wine, 100 parts; essence of turpentine, 50 parts; fine tripoli, 100 parts.

II.—Water, 1,000 parts; oxalic acid, 30 parts; alcohol, 50 parts; essence of turpentine, 40 parts; fine tripoli, 50 parts.

III.—Sulphuric acid, 300 parts; sulphate of alumina, 80 parts; water, 520 parts.

Tempered Copper.

—Objects made of copper may be satisfactorily tempered by subjecting them to a certain degree of heat for a determined period of time and bestrewing them with powdered sulphur during the heating. While hot the objects are plunged into a bath of blue vitriol; after the bath they may be heated again.

COPPER ALLOYS: See Alloys.

COPPER CLEANING: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

COPPER ETCHING: See Etching.

COPPER IN FOOD: See Food.

COPPER LACQUERS: See Lacquers. {222}

COPPER PAPER: See Paper, Metallic.

COPPER PATINIZING AND PLATING: See Plating.

COPPER POLISHES: See Polishes.

COPPER, SEPARATION OF GOLD FROM: See Gold.

COPPER SOLDER: See Solders.

COPPER VARNISHES: See Varnishes.

Copying Printed Pictures.

The so-called “metallic” paper used for steam-engine indicator cards has a smooth surface, chemically prepared so that black lines can be drawn upon it with pencils made of brass, copper, silver, aluminum, or any of the softer metals. When used on the indicator it receives the faint line drawn by a brass point at one end of the pencil arm, and its special advantage over ordinary paper is that the metallic pencil slides over its surface with very little friction, and keeps its point much longer than a graphite pencil.

This paper can be used as a transfer paper for copying engravings or sketches, or anything printed or written in ink or drawn in pencil.

The best copies can be obtained by following the directions below: Lay the metallic transfer paper, face up, upon at least a dozen sheets of blank paper, and lay the print face down upon it. On the back of the print place a sheet of heavy paper, or thin cardboard, and run the rubbing tool over this protecting sheet. In this manner it is comparatively easy to prevent slipping, and prints 8 or 10 inches on a side may be copied satisfactorily.

Line drawings printed from relief plates, or pictures with sharp contrast of black and white, without any half-tones, give the best copies. Very few half-tones can be transferred satisfactorily; almost all give streaked, indistinct copies, and many of the results are worthless.

The transfer taken off as described is a reverse of the original print. If the question of right and left is not important this reversal will seldom be objectionable, for it is easy to read backward what few letters generally occur. However, if desired, the paper may be held up to the light and examined from the back, or placed before a mirror and viewed by means of its reflected image, when the true relations of right and left will be seen. Moreover, if sufficiently important, an exact counterpart of the original may be taken from the reversed copy by laying another sheet face downward upon it, and rubbing on the back of the fresh sheet just as was done in making the reversed copy. The impression thus produced will be fainter than the first, but almost always it can be made dark enough to show a distinct outline which may afterwards be retouched with a lead pencil.

For indicator cards the paper is prepared by coating one surface with a suitable compound, usually zinc oxide mixed with a little starch and enough glue to make it adhere. After drying it is passed between calendar rolls under great pressure. The various brands manufactured for the trade, though perhaps equally good for indicator diagrams, are not equally well suited for copying. If paper of firmer texture could be prepared with the same surface finish, probably much larger copies could be produced.

Other kinds of paper, notably the heavy plate papers used for some of the best trade catalogues, possess this transfer property to a slight degree, though they will not receive marks from a metallic pencil. The latter feature would seem to recommend them for transfer purposes, making them less likely to become soiled by contact with metallic objects, but so far no kind has been found which will remove enough ink to give copies anywhere near as dark as the indicator paper.

Fairly good transfers can be made from almost any common printers’ ink, but some inks copy much better than others, and some yield only the faintest impressions. The length of time since a picture was printed does not seem to determine its copying quality. Some very old prints can be copied better than new ones; in fact, it was by accidental transfer to an indicator card from a book nearly a hundred years old that the peculiar property of this “metallic” paper was discovered.

Copying Process On Wood.

—If wood surfaces are exposed to direct sunlight the wood will exhibit, after 2 weeks action, a browning of dark tone in the exposed places. Certain parts of the surface being covered up during the entire exposure to the sun, they retain their original shade and are set off clearly and sharply against the parts browned by the sunlight. Based on this property of the {223} wood is a sun-copying process on wood. The method is used for producing tarsia in imitation on wood. A pierced stencil of tin, wood, or paper is laid on a freshly planed plate of wood, pasting it on in places to avoid shifting, and put into a common copying frame. To prevent the wood from warping a stretcher is employed, whereupon expose to the sun for from 8 to 14 days. After the brown shade has appeared the design obtained is partly fixed by polishing or by a coating of varnish, lacquer, or wax. Best suited for such works are the pine woods, especially the 5-year fir and the cembra pine, which, after the exposure, show a yellowish brown tone of handsome golden gloss, that stands out boldly, especially after subsequent polishing, and cannot be replaced by any stain or by pyrography. The design is sharper and clearer than that produced by painting. In short, the total effect is pleasing.

How To Reproduce Old Prints.

—Prepare a bath as follows: Sulphuric acid, 3 to 5 parts (according to the antiquity of print, thickness of paper, etc.); alcohol, 3 to 5 parts; water, 100 parts. In this soak the print from 5 to 15 minutes (the time depending on age, etc., as above), remove, spread face downward on a glass or ebonite plate, and wash thoroughly in a gentle stream of running water. If the paper is heavy, reverse the sides, and let the water flow over the face of the print. Remove carefully and place on a heavy sheet of blotting paper, cover with another, and press out every drop of water possible. Where a wringing machine is convenient and sufficiently wide, passing the blotters and print through the rollers is better than mere pressing with the hands. The print, still moist, is then laid face upward on a heavy glass plate (a marble slab or a lithographers’ stone answers equally well), and smoothed out. With a very soft sponge go over the surface with a thin coating of gum-arabic water. The print is now ready for inking, which is done exactly as in lithographing, with a roller and printers’ or lithographers’ ink, cut with oil of turpentine. Suitable paper is then laid on and rolled with a dry roller. This gives a reverse image of the print, which is then applied to a zinc plate or a lithographers’ stone, and as many prints as desired pulled off in the usual lithographing method. When carefully done and the right kind of paper used, it is said that the imitation of the original is perfect in every detail.

To Copy Old Letters, Manuscripts, Etc.

—If written in the commercial ink of the period from 1860 to 1864, which was almost universally an iron and tannin or gallic-acid ink, the following process may succeed: Make a thin solution of glucose, or honey, in water, and with this wet the paper in the usually observed way in copying recent documents in the letter book, put in the press, and screw down tightly. Let it remain in the press somewhat longer than in copying recent documents. When removed, before attempting to separate the papers, expose to the fumes of strong water of ammonia, copy side downward.

Cordage:

See also Ropes.

Strong Twine.

—An extraordinarily strong pack thread or cord, stronger even than the so-called “Zuckerschnur,” may be obtained by laying the thread of fibers in a strong solution of alum, and then carefully drying them.

Preservation Of Fishing Nets.

—The following recipe for the preservation of fishing nets is also applicable to ropes, etc., in contact with water. Some have been subjected to long test.

For 40 parts of cord, hemp, or cotton, 3 parts of kutch, 1 part of blue vitriol, / 2 part of potassium chromate, and 2 / 2 parts of wood tar are required. The kutch is boiled with 150 parts of water until dissolved, and then the blue vitriol is added. Next, the net is entered and the tar added. The whole should be stirred well, and the cordage must boil 5 to 8 minutes. Now take out the netting, lay it in another vessel, cover up well, and leave alone for 12 hours. After that it is dried well, spread out in a clean place, and coated with linseed oil. Not before 6 hours have elapsed should it be folded together and put into the water. The treatment with linseed oil may be omitted.

CORDAGE LUBRICANT: See Lubricants.

CORDAGE WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.

CORDIALS: See Wines and Liquors.

Corks:

Impervious Corks.

—Corks which have been steeped in petrolatum are said to be an excellent substitute for glass stoppers. Acid in no way affects them and chemical fumes do not cause decay in them, neither do they become fixed by a blow or long disuse. {224}

Non-porous Corks.

—For benzine, turpentine, and varnish cans, immerse the corks in hot melted paraffine. Keep them under about 5 minutes; hold them down with a piece of wire screen cut to fit the dish in which you melt the paraffine. When taken out lay them on a screen till cool. Cheap corks can in this way be made gas- and air-tight, and can be cut and bored with ease.

Substitute For Cork.

—Wood pulp or other ligneous material may be treated to imitate cork. For the success of the composition it is necessary that the constituents be mingled and treated under special conditions. The volumetric proportions in which these constituents combine with the best results are the following: Wood pulp, 3 parts; cornstalk pith, 1 part; gelatin, 1 part; glycerine, 1 part; water, 4 parts; 20 per cent formic-aldehyde solution, 1 part; but the proportions may be varied. After disintegrating the ligneous substances, and while these are in a moist and hot condition they are mingled with the solution of gelatin, glycerine, and water. The mass is stirred thoroughly so as to obtain a homogeneous mixture. The excess of moisture is removed. As a last operation the formic aldehyde is introduced, and the mass is left to coagulate in this solution. The formic aldehyde renders the product insoluble in nearly all liquids. So it is in this last operation that it is necessary to be careful in producing the composition properly. When the operation is terminated the substance is submitted to pressure during its coagulation, either by molding it at once into a desired form, or into a mass which is afterwards converted into the finished product.

CORKS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods, under Miscellaneous Methods.

CORK TO METAL, FASTENING: See Adhesives, under Pastes.

CORK AS A PRESERVATIVE: See Preserving.

CORKS, WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.

Corn Cures:

I.—Salicylic-Acid Corn Cure.—Extract cannabis indica, 1 part, by measure; salicylic acid, 10 parts, by measure; oil of turpentine, 5 parts, by measure; acetic acid, glacial, 2 parts, by measure; cocaine, alkaloidal, 2 parts, by measure; collodion, elastic, sufficient to make 100 parts. Apply a thin coating every night, putting each layer directly on the preceding one. After a few applications, the mass drops off, bringing the indurated portion, and frequently the whole of the corn, off with it.

II.—Compound Salicylated Collodion Corn Cure.—Salicylic acid, 11 parts, by weight; extract of Indian hemp, 2 parts, by weight; alcohol, 10 parts, by weight; flexible collodion, U. S. P., a sufficient quantity to make 100 parts, by weight.

The extract is dissolved in the alcohol and the acid in about 50 parts, by weight, of collodion, the solutions mixed, and the liquid made up to the required amount. The Indian hemp is presumably intended to prevent pain; whether it serves this or any other useful purpose seems a matter of doubt. The acid is frequently used without this addition.

III.—Extract of cannabis indica, 90 grains; salicylic acid, 1 ounce; alcohol, 1 ounce; collodion enough to make 10 ounces. Soften the extract with the alcohol, then add the collodion, and lastly the acid.

IV.—Resorcin, 1 part, by weight; salicylic acid, 1 part, by weight; lactic acid, 1 part, by weight; collodion elasticum, 10 parts, by weight. Paint the corn daily for 5 or 6 days with the above solution and take a foot bath in very hot water. The corn will readily come off.

Corn Plaster.

—Yellow wax, 24 parts, by weight; Venice turpentine, 3 parts, by weight; rosin, 2 parts, by weight; salicylic acid, 2 parts, by weight; balsam of Peru, 2 parts, by weight; lanolin, 4 parts, by weight.

Corn Cure.

—Melt soap plaster, 85 parts, by weight, and yellow wax, 5 parts by weight, in a vapor bath, and stir finely ground salicylic acid, 10 parts, by weight, into it.

Removal Of Corns.

—The liquid used by chiropodists with pumice stone for the removal of corns and callosities is usually nothing more than a solution of potassa or concentrated lye, the pumice stone being dipped into the solution by the operator just before using.

Treatment Of Bunions.

—Wear right and left stockings and shoes, the inner edges of the sole of which are perfectly straight. The bunion is bathed night and morning in a 4 per cent solution of carbolic acid for a few minutes, followed by plain water. If, after several weeks, the bursa is still distended with fluid, it is aspirated. If the bunion is due to flatfoot, the arch of the foot must be restored by a plate. When the joints are enlarged because of gout or {225} rheumatism, the constitutional conditions must be treated. In other cases, osteotomy and tenotomy are required.

The Treatment Of Corns.

—Any corn may be speedily and permanently cured. The treatment is of three kinds—preventive, palliative, and curative.

I.—The preventive treatment lies in adopting such measures as will secure freedom from pressure and friction for the parts most liable to corns. To this end a well-fitting shoe is essential. The shoes should be of well-seasoned leather, soft and elastic, and should be cut to a proper model.

II.—The palliative treatment is generally carried out with chemical substances. The best method, is, briefly, as follows: A ring of glycerine jelly is painted around the circumference of the corn, to form a raised rampart. A piece of salicylic plaster mull is then cut to the size and shape of the central depression, and applied to the surface of the corn. This is then covered with a layer of glycerine jelly, and before it sets a pad of cotton wool is applied to the surface. This process is repeated as often as is necessary, until the horny layer separates and is cast off.

If the point of a sharp, thin-bladed knife be introduced at the groove which runs around the margin of the corn, and be made to penetrate toward its central axis, by the exercise of a little manual dexterity the horny part of the corn can be easily made to separate from the parts beneath.

III.—Any method of treatment to be curative must secure the removal of the entire corn, together with the underlying bursa. It is mainly in connection with the latter structure that complications, which alone make a corn a matter of serious import, are likely to arise. Freeland confidently advises the full and complete excision of corns, on the basis of his experience in upward of 60 cases.

Every precaution having been taken to render the operation aseptic, a spot is selected for the injection of the anæsthetic solution. The skin is rendered insensitive with ethyl chloride, and 5 minims of a 4 per cent solution of cocaine is injected into the subcutaneous tissue beneath the corn. After a wait of a few minutes the superficial parts of the site of the incision are rendered insensitive with ethyl chloride. Anæsthesia is now complete.

Two semielliptical incisions meeting at their extremities are made through the skin abound the circumference of the growth, care being taken that they penetrate well into the subcutaneous tissue. Seizing the parts included in the incision with a pair of dissecting forceps, a wedge-shaped piece of tissue—including the corn, a layer of skin and subcutaneous tissue, and the bursa if present—is dissected out. The oozing is pretty free, and it is sometimes necessary to torsion a small vessel; but the hemorrhage is never severe. The edges of the wound are brought together by one or two fine sutures; an antiseptic dressing is applied, and the wound is left to heal—primary union in a few days being the rule. The rapidity of the healing is often phenomenal. There is produced a scar tissue at the site of the corn, but this leads to no untoward results.

Cosmetics

Cold Cream.

I.— Oil of almonds 425 parts

Lanolin 185 parts

White wax 62 parts

Spermaceti 62 parts

Borax 4.5 parts

Rose water 300 part

Melt together the first four ingredients, then incorporate the solution of borax in the rose water.

II.— Tragacanth 125 parts

Boric acid 100 parts

Glycerine 140 parts

Expressed oil of almonds 50 parts

Glyconine 50 parts

Oil of lavender 0.5 parts

Water enough to make 1,000 parts

Mix the tragacanth and the boric acid with the glycerine; add the almond oil, lavender oil, and egg glycerite, which have been previously well incorporated, and, lastly, add the water in divided portions until a clear jelly of the desired consistency is obtained.

III.— Oil of almonds 26 ounces

Castor oil (odorless) 6 ounces

Lard (benzoated) 8 ounces

White wax 8 ounces

Rose water (in winter less, in summer more, than quantity named) 12 ounces

Orange-flower water 8 ounces

Oil of rose 15 minims

Extract of jasmine 6 drachms

Extract of cassia 4 drachms

Borax 2 ounces

Glycerine 4 ounces

{226}

Melt the oil of sweet almonds, wax, and lard together, and stir in the castor oil; make a solution of the borax in the glycerine and rose and orange-flower waters; add this solution, a little at a time, to the melted fat, stirring constantly to insure thorough incorporation; finally add the oil of rose dissolved in the extracts, and beat the ointment until cold.

IV.—Spermaceti (pure), / 4 ounce; white wax (pure), / 4 ounce; almond oil, / 4 pound; butter of cocoa, / 4 pound; lanolin, 2 ounces.

Melt and stir in 1 drachm of balsam of Peru. After settling, pour off the clear portion and add 2 fluidrachms of orange-flower water and stir briskly until it concretes.

Camphorated Cold Cream.—

Oil of sweet almonds 8 fluidounces

White wax 1 ounce

Spermaceti 1 ounce

Camphor 1 ounce

Rose water 5 fluidounces

Borax (in fine powder) 4 drachms

Oil of rose 10 drops

Melt the wax and spermaceti, add the oil of sweet almonds, in which the camphor has been dissolved with very gentle heat; then gradually add the rose water, in which the borax has previously been dissolved, beating or agitating constantly with a wooden spatula until cold. Lastly add the oil of rose.

Petrolatum Cold Cream.—

Petrolatum (white) 7 ounces

Paraffine / 2 ounce

Lanolin 2 ounces

Water 3 ounces

Oil of rose 3 drops

Alcohol 1 drachm

A small quantity of borax may be added, if desirable, and the perfume may be varied to suit the taste.

Lip Salves:

Pomades For The Lips.

—Lip pomatum which is said always to retain a handsome red color and never to grow rancid is prepared as follows:

I.— Paraffine 80.0 parts

Vaseline 80.0 parts

Anchusine 0.5 parts

Bergamot oil 1.0 part

Lemon peel 1.0 part

II.—Vaseline Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, white 1,000 parts

Wax, white 300 part

Geranium oil, African. 40 parts

Lemon oil. 20 parts

III.—Rose Pomade.—

Almond oil 1,000 parts

Wax, white 300 parts

Alkannin 3 parts

Geranium oil 20 parts

IV.—Yellow Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, white. 1,000 parts

Wax, white 200 parts

Spermaceti 200 parts

Saffron surrogate. 10 parts

Clove oil. 20 parts

V.—White Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, white 1,000 parts

Wax, white. 300 parts

Bitter almond oil, genuine. 10 parts

Lemon oil 2 parts

VI.— Paraffine 49.0 parts

Vaseline. 49.0 parts

Oil of lemon. 0.75 parts

Oil of violet 0.75 parts

Carmine, quantity sufficient.

Lipol.

—For treating sore, rough, or inflamed lips, apply the following night and morning, rubbing in well with the finger tips: Camphor, / 2 ounce; menthol, / 2 ounce; eucalyptol, 1 drachm; petrolatum (white), 1 pound; paraffine, / 2 pound; alkanet root, / 2 ounce; oil of bitter almonds, 15 drops; oil of cloves, 10 drops; oil of cassia, 5 drops. Digest the root in the melted paraffine and petrolatum, strain, add the other ingredients and pour into lip jars, hot.

Manicure Preparations:

Powdered Nail Polishes.—

I.— Tin oxide 8 drachms

Carmine / 4 drachm

Rose oil. 6 drops

Neroli oil. 5 drops

II.— Cinnabar. 1 drachm

Infusorial earth. 8 drachms

III.— Putty powder (fine). 4 drachms

Carmine. 2 grains

Oil of rose. 1 drop

IV.— White castile soap. 1 part

Hot water 16 parts

Zinc chloride solution, 10 per cent, quantity sufficient.

Dissolve the soap in the water and to the solution add the zinc-chloride solution until no further precipitation occurs. Let stand over night; pour off the supernatant fluid, wash the precipitate {227} well with water, and dry at the ordinary temperature. Carmine may be added if desired.

Polishing Pastes For The Nails.—

I.— Talcum. 5 drachms

Stannous oxide. 3 drachms

Powdered tragacanth 5 grains

Glycerine 1 drachm

Rose water, quantity sufficient.

Solution of carmine sufficient to tint.

Make paste.

For softening the nails, curing hangnails, etc., an ointment is sometimes used consisting of white petrolatum, 8 parts; powdered castile soap, 1 part; and perfume to suit.

II.— Eosine 10 grains

White wax / 2 drachm

Spermaceti / 2 drachm

Soft paraffine 1 ounce

Alcohol, a sufficient quantity.

Dissolve the eosine in as little alcohol as will suffice, melt the other ingredients together, add the solution, and stir until cool.

Nail-cleaning Washes.—

I.— Tartaric acid 1 drachm

Tincture of myrrh 1 drachm

Cologne water 2 drachms

Water 3 ounces

Dissolve the acid in the water; mix the tincture of myrrh and cologne, and add to the acid solution.

Dip the nails in this solution, wipe, and polish with chamois skin.

II.— Oxalic acid 30 grains

Rose water 1 ounce

Nail Varnish.—

Paraffine wax 60 grains

Chloroform 2 ounces

Oil of rose 3 drops

Pomades:

I.—Beef-Marrow Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, yellow 20,000 parts

Ceresine, yellow 3,000 parts

Beef marrow 2,000 parts

Saffron substitute 15 parts

Lemon oil 50 parts

Bergamot oil 20 parts

Clove oil 5 parts

Lavender oil. 10 parts

II.—China Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, yellow 20,000 parts

Ceresine, yellow 5,000 parts

Brilliant, brown 12 parts

Peru balsam 50 parts

Lemon oil 5 parts

Bergamot oil 5 parts

Clove oil 5 parts

Lavender oil 5 parts

III.—Crystalline Honey Pomade.—Nut oil, 125 drachms; spermaceti, 15 drachms; gamboge, 2 drachms; vervain oil, 10 drops; cinnamon oil, 20 drops; bergamot oil, 30 drops; rose oil, 3 drops. The spermaceti is melted in the nut oil on a water bath and digested with the gamboge for 20 minutes; it is next strained, scented, and poured into cans which are standing in water. The cooling must take place very slowly. Instead of gamboge, butter color may be used. Any desired scent mixture may be employed.

IV.—Herb Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, yellow 20,000 parts

Ceresine, yellow 5,000 parts

Chlorophyll 20 parts

Lemon oil 50 parts

Clove oil 20 parts

Geranium oil, African 12 parts

Curled mint oil. 4 parts

V.—Rose Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, white 20,000 parts

Ceresine, white 5,000 parts

Alkannin 15 parts

Geranium oil, African 50 parts

Palmarosa oil 30 parts

Lemon oil 20 parts

VI.—Strawberry Pomade.—When the strawberry season is on, and berries are plenty and cheap, the following is timely:

Strawberries, ripe and fresh 4 parts

Lard, sweet and fresh 25 parts

Tallow, fresh 5 parts

Alkanet tincture, quantity sufficient.

Essential oil, quantity sufficient to perfume.

Melt lard and tallow together on the water bath at the temperature of boiling water. Have the strawberries arranged on a straining cloth. Add the alkanet tincture to the melted grease, stir in, and then pour the mixture over the berries. Stir the strained fats until the mass {228} begins to set, then add the perfume and stir in. A little artificial essence of strawberries may be added. The odor usually employed is rose, about 1 drop to every 2 pounds.

VII.—Stick Pomade.—

Tallow 500 parts

Ceresine 150 parts

Wax, yellow 50 parts

Rosin, light 200 parts

Paraffine oil (thick) 300 parts

Oil of cassia. 5 parts

Oil of bergamot 5 parts

Oil of clove 2 parts

VIII.—Vaseline Pomade.—Melt 250 parts of freshly rendered lard and 25 parts of white wax at moderate heat and mix well with 200 parts of vaseline. Add 15 parts of bergamot oil, 3 parts of lavender oil, 2 parts of geranium oil, and 2 parts of lemon oil, mixing well.

IX.—Witch-Hazel Jelly.—

Oil of sweet almonds 256 parts

Extract of witch-hazel fluid 10 parts

Glycerine 32 parts

oft soap 20 parts

Tincture of musk, quantity sufficient to perfume.

Mix in a large mortar the glycerine and soft soap and stir until incorporated. Add and rub in the witch-hazel, and then add the oil, slowly, letting it fall in a very thin, small stream, under constant agitation; add the perfume, keeping up the agitation until complete incorporation is attained. Ten drops of musk to a quart of jelly is sufficient. Any other perfume may be used.

Colors For Pomade.

—Pomade may be colored red by infusing alkanet in the grease; yellow may be obtained by using annotto in the same way; an oil-soluble chlorophyll will give a green color by admixture.

In coloring grease by means of alkanet or annotto it is best to tie the drug up in a piece of coarse cloth, place in a small portion of the grease, heat gently, squeezing well with a rod from time to time; and then adding this strongly colored grease to the remainder. This procedure obviates exposing the entire mass to heat, and neither decantation nor straining is needed.

Brocq’s Pomade For Itching.—

Acid phenic 1 part

Acid salicylic 2 parts

Acid tartaric 3 parts

Glycerole of starch 60 to 100 parts

Mix and make a pomade.

White Cosmetique.—

Jasmine pomade 2 ounces

Tuberose pomade 2 ounces

White wax 2 ounces

Refined suet 4 ounces

Rose oil 15 minims

Melt the wax and suet over a water bath, then add the pomades, and finally the otto.

Glycerine And Cucumber Jelly.—

Gelatin 160 to 240 grains

Boric acid 240 grains

Glycerine 6 fluidounces

Water 10 fluidounces

Perfume to suit. The perfume must be one that mixes without opalescence, otherwise it mars the beauty of the preparation. Orange-flower water or rose water could be substituted for the water if desired, or another perfume consisting of

Spirit of vanillin (15 grains per ounce) 2 fluidrachms

Spirit of coumarin (15 grains per ounce) 2 fluidrachms

Spirit of bitter almonds ( / 8) 8 minims

to the quantities given above would prove agreeable.

Cucumber Pomade.—

Cucumber pomade 2 ounces

Powdered white soap / 2 ounce

Powdered borax 2 drachms

Cherry-laurel water 3 ounces

Rectified spirit 3 ounces

Distilled water to make 48 ounces

Rub the pomade with the soap and borax until intimately mixed, then add the distilled water (which may be warmed to blood heat), ounce by ounce, to form a smooth and uniform cream. When 40 ounces of water have been so incorporated, dissolve any essential oils desired as perfume in the spirit, and add the cherry-laurel water, making up to 48 ounces with plain water.

Rouges And Paints:

Grease Paints.

—Theatrical face paints are sold in sticks, and there are many varieties of color. Yellows are obtained with ocher; browns with burnt umber; and blue is made with ultramarine. These colors should in each case be levigated finely along with their own weight {229} of equal parts of precipitated chalk and oxide of zinc and diluted with the same to the tint required, then made into sticks with mutton suet (or vaseline or paraffine, equal parts) well perfumed. By blending these colors, other tints may thus be obtained.

White Grease Paints.—

I.— Prepared chalk 4 av. ounces

Zinc oxide 4 av. ounces

Bismuth subnitrate 4 av. ounces

Asbestos powder 4 av. ounces

Sweet almond oil, about 2 / 2 fluidounces

Camphor 40 grains

Oil peppermint 3 fluidrachms

Esobouquet extract 3 fluidrachms

Sufficient almond oil should be used to form a mass of proper consistence.

II.— Zinc oxide. 8 parts

Bismuth subnitrate 8 parts

Aluminum oxychloride 8 parts

Almond oil, quantity sufficient, or 5–6 parts.

Perfume, quantity sufficient.

Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum oxychloride thoroughly; make into a paste with the oil. Any perfume may be added, but that generally used is composed of 1 drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 grains of camphor, and 12 minims of oil of peppermint for every 3 / 2 ounces of paste.

Bright Red.—

Zinc oxide 10 parts

Bismuth subnitrate 10 parts

Aluminum oxychloride 10 parts

Almond oil, quantity sufficient.

Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts, and to every 4 ounces of the mixture add 2 / 4 grains of eosine dissolved in a drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 minims oil of peppermint, and 12 grains of camphor. Make the whole into a paste with almond oil.

Red.—

Cacao butter 4 av. ounces

White wax 4 av. ounces

Olive oil 2 fluidounces

Oil of rose 8 drops

Oil of bergamot 3 drops

Oil of neroli 2 drops

Tincture musk 2 drops

Carmine 90 grains

Ammonia water 3 fluidrachms

Deep, Or Bordeaux, Red.—

Zinc oxide 30 parts

Bismuth subnitrate 30 parts

Aluminum oxychloride 30 parts

Carmine 1 part

Ammonia water 5 parts

Essence bouquet 3 parts

Peppermint, camphor, etc., quantity sufficient.

Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia and add solution to the mixture. Add 24 grains of camphor, and 24 minims of oil of peppermint dissolved in the essence bouquet, and make the whole into a paste with oil of sweet almonds.

Vermilion.—

Vermilion 18 parts

Tincture of saffron 12 parts

Orris root, powdered 30 parts

Chalk, precipitated 120 parts

Zinc oxide 120 parts

Camphor 2 parts

Essence bouquet 9 parts

Oil of peppermint 2 parts

Almond oil, quantity sufficient.

Mix as before.

Pink.—

Zinc carbonate 250 parts

Bismuth subnitrate 250 parts

Asbestos 250 parts

Expressed oil of almonds 100 parts

Camphor 55 parts

Oil of peppermint 55 parts

Perfume 25 parts

Eosine 1 part

Dark Red.

—Like the preceding, but colored with a solution of carmine.

Rouge.—

Zinc oxide. 2 / 2 ounces

Bismuth subnitrate 2 / 2 ounces

Aluminum plumbate 2 / 2 ounces

Eosine 1 drachm

Essence bouquet 2 drachms

Camphor 6 drachms

Oil of peppermint 20 minims

Almond oil, quantity sufficient.

Dissolve the eosine in the essence bouquet, and mix with the camphor and peppermint; add the powder and make into a paste with almond oil.

Black Grease Paints.—

I.— Soot 2 av. ounces

Sweet almond oil 2 fluidounces

Cacao butter 6 av. ounces

Perfume, sufficient.

{230}

The soot should be derived from burning camphor and repeatedly washed with alcohol. It should be triturated to a smooth mixture with the oil; then add to the melted cacao butter; add the perfume, and form into sticks.

Brown or other colors may be obtained by adding appropriate pigments, such as finely levigated burned umber, sienna, ocher, jeweler’s rouge, etc., to the foregoing base instead of lampblack.

II.— Best lampblack 1 drachm

Cacao butter 3 drachms

Olive oil 3 drachms

Oil of neroli 2 drops

Melt the cacao butter and oil, add the lampblack, and stir constantly as the mixture cools, adding the perfume toward the end.

III.— Lampblack 1 part

Cacao butter 6 parts

Oil neroli, sufficient.

Melt the cacao butter and the lampblack, and while cooling make an intimate mixture, adding the perfume toward the last.

IV.— Lampblack. 1 part

Expressed oil of almonds 1 part

Oil cocoanut 1 part

Perfume, sufficient.

Beat the lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine. Apply with a sponge; if necessary, mix a little water with it when using.

V.—Beat the finest lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine and apply with a sponge; if necessary, add a little water to the mixture when using. Or you can make a grease paint as follows: Drop black, 2 drachms; almond oil, 2 drachms; cocoanut oil, 6 drachms; oil of lemon, 5 minims; oil of neroli, 1 minim. Mix.

Fatty Face Powders.

—These have a small percentage of fat mixed with them in order to make the powder adhere to the skin.

Dissolve 1 drachm anhydrous lanolin in 2 drachms of ether in a mortar. Add 3 drachms of light magnesia. Mix well, dry, and then add the following: French chalk, 2 ounces; powdered starch, 1 / 2 ounces; boric acid, 1 drachm; perfume, a sufficient quantity. A good perfume is coumarin, 2 grains, and attar of rose, 2 minims.

Nose Putty.

—I.—Mix 1 ounce wheat flour with 2 drachms of powdered tragacanth and tint with carmine. Take as much of the powder as necessary, knead into a stiff paste with a little water and apply to the nose, having previously painted it with spirit gum.

II.—White wax, 8 parts; rosin, white, 8 parts; mutton suet, 4 parts; color to suit. Melt together.

Rose Powder.

—As a base take 200 parts of powdered iris root, add 600 parts of rose petals, 100 parts of sandalwood, 100 parts of patchouli, 3 parts of oil of geranium, and 2 parts of true rose oil.

Rouge Tablets.

—There are two distinct classes of these tablets: those in which the coloring matter is carmine, and those in which the aniline colors are used. The best are those prepared with carmine, or ammonium carminate, to speak more correctly. The following is an excellent formula:

Ammonium carminate 10 parts

Talc, in powder 25 parts

Dextrin 8 parts

Simple syrup, sufficient.

Perfume, to taste, sufficient.

Mix the talc and dextrin and add the perfume, preferably in the shape of an essential oil (attar of rose, synthetic oil of jasmine, or violet, etc.), using 6 to 8 drops to every 4 ounces of other ingredients. Incorporate the ammonium carminate and add just enough simple syrup to make a mass easily rolled out. Cut into tablets of the desired size. The ammonium carminate is made by adding 1 part of carmine to 2 / 2 parts of strong ammonia water. Mix in a vial, cork tightly, and set aside until a solution is formed, shaking occasionally. The ammonium carminate is made by dissolving carmine in ammonia water to saturation.

Rouge Palettes.

—To prepare rouge palettes rub up together:

Carmine 9 parts

French chalk 50 parts

Almond oil 12 parts

Add enough tragacanth mucilage to make the mass adhere and spread the whole evenly on the porcelain palette.

Liquid Rouge.—

I.— Carmine 4 parts

Stronger ammonia water 4 parts

Essence of rose 16 parts

Rose water to make. 500 parts

Mix. A very delightful violet odor, if this is preferred, is obtained by using ionone in place of rose essence. A cheaper preparation may be made as follows: {231}

II.— Eosine 1 part

Distilled water 20 parts

Glycerine 5 parts

Cologne water 75 parts

Alcohol 100 parts

Mix.

Rub together with 10 parts of almond oil and add sufficient mucilage of tragacanth to make the mass adhere to the porcelain palette.

III.— Carmine 1 part

Stronger ammonia water 1 part

Attar of rose 4 parts

Rose water 125 parts

Mix. Any other color may be used in place of rose, violet (ionone), for instance, or heliotrope. A cheaper preparation may be made by substituting eosine for the carmine, as follows:

IV.— Eosine 1 part

Distilled water 20 parts

Glycerine 5 parts

Cologne water 75 parts

Alcohol 100 parts

Mix.

Peach Tint.—

a.— Buffalo eosine 4 drachms

Distilled water 16 fluidounces

Mix.

b.— Pure hydrochloric acid 2 / 2 drachms

Distilled water 64 fluidounces

Mix.

Pour a into b, shake, and set aside for a few hours; then pour off the clear portion and collect the precipitate on a filter. Wash with the same amount of b and immediately throw the precipitate into a glass measure, stirring in with a glass rod sufficient of b to measure 16 ounces in all. Pass through a hair sieve to get out any filtering paper. To every 16 ounces add 8 ounces of glycerine.

Theater Rouge.

—Base:

Cornstarch 4 drachms

Powdered white talcum 6 drachms

Mix.

a.— Carminoline 10 grains

Base 6 drachms

Water 4 drachms

Dissolve the carminoline in the water, mix with the base and dry.

b.— Geranium red 10 grains

Base 6 drachms

Water 4 drachms

Mix as above and dry.

Skin Foods.

Wrinkles on the face yield to a wash consisting of 50 parts milk of almonds (made with rose water) and 4 parts aluminum sulphate. Use morning and night.

Rough skin is to be washed constantly in Vichy water. Besides this, rough places are to have the following application twice daily—either a few drops of:

I.— Rose water 100 parts

Glycerine 25 parts

Tannin / 4 part

Mix. Or use:

II.— Orange-flower water 100 parts

Glycerine 10 parts

Borax 2 parts

Mix. Sig.: Apply twice daily.

“Beauty Cream.”

—This formula gives the skin a beautiful, smooth, and fresh appearance, and, at the same time, serves to protect and preserve it:

Alum, powdered 10 grams

Whites of 2 eggs

Boric acid 3 grams

Tincture of benzoin 40 drops

Olive oil 40 drops

Mucilage of acacia 5 drops

Rice flour, quantity sufficient.

Perfume, quantity sufficient.

Mix the alum and the white of eggs, without any addition of water whatever, in an earthen vessel, and dissolve the alum by the aid of very gentle heat (derived from a lamp, or gaslight, regulated to a very small flame), and constant, even, stirring. This must continue until the aqueous content of the albumen is completely driven off. Care must be taken to avoid coagulation of the albumen (which occurs very easily, as all know). Let the mass obtained in this manner get completely cold, then throw into a Wedgwood mortar, add the boric acid, tincture of benzoin, oil, mucilage (instead of which a solution of fine gelatin may be used), etc., and rub up together, thickening it with the addition of sufficient rice flour to give the desired consistence, and perfuming at will. Instead of olive oil any pure fat, or fatty oil, may be used, even vaseline or glycerine.

Face Bleach Or Beautifier.—

Syrupy lactic acid 40 ounces

Glycerine 80 ounces

Distilled water 5 gallons

Mix. Gradually add

Tincture of benzoin 3 ounces

Color by adding

Carmine No. 40 40 grains

Glycerine 1 ounce

Ammonia solution / 2 ounce

Water to 3 ounces

Heat this to drive off the ammonia, and mix all. Shake, set aside; then filter, and add

Solution of ionone 1 drachm

Add a few drachms of kaolin and filter until bright.

Blackhead Remedies.

I.— Lactic acid 1 drachm

Boric acid 1 drachm

Ceresine 1 drachm

Paraffine oil 6 drachms

Hydrous wool fat 1 / 2 ounces

Castor oil 6 drachms

II.—Unna advises hydrogen dioxide in the treatment of blackheads, his prescription being:

Hydrogen dioxide 20 to 40 parts

Hydrous wool fat 10 parts

Petrolatum 30 parts

III.— Thymol 1 part

Boric acid 2 parts

Tincture of witch-hazel 18 parts

Rose water sufficient to make 200 parts

Mix. Apply to the face night and morning with a sponge, first washing the face with hot water and castile soap, and drying it with a coarse towel, using force enough to start the dried secretions. An excellent plan is to steam the face by holding it over a basin of hot water, keeping the head covered with a cloth.

IV.— Ichthyol 1 drachm

Zinc oxide 2 drachms

Starch 2 drachms

Petrolatum 3 drachms

This paste should be applied at night. The face should first be thoroughly steamed or washed in water as hot as can be comfortably borne. All pustules should then be opened and blackheads emptied with as little violence as possible. After careful drying the paste should be thoroughly rubbed into the affected areas. In the morning, after removing the paste with a bland soap, bathe with cool water and dry with little friction.

Hand Creams And Lotions:

Chapped Skin.—

I.— Glycerine 8 parts

Bay rum 4 parts

Ammonia water 4 parts

Rose water 4 parts

Mix the bay rum and glycerine, add the ammonia water, and finally the rose water. It is especially efficacious after shaving.

II.—As glycerine is bad for the skin of many people, here is a recipe which will be found more generally satisfactory as it contains less glycerine: Bay rum, 3 ounces; glycerine, 1 ounce; carbolic acid, / 2 drachm (30 drops). Wash the hands well and apply while hands are soft, preferably just before going to bed. Rub in thoroughly. This rarely fails to cure the worst “chaps” in two nights.

III.—A sure remedy for chapped hands consists in keeping them carefully dry and greasing them now and then with an anhydrous fat (not cold cream). The best substances for the purpose are unguentum cereum or oleum olivarum.

If the skin of the hands is already cracked the following preparation will heal it:

Finely ground zinc oxide, 5.0 parts; bismuth oxychloride, 2.0 parts; with fat oil, 12.0 parts; next add glycerine, 5.0 parts; lanolin, 30.0 parts; and scent with rose water, 10.0 parts.

IV.—Wax salve (olive oil 7 parts, and yellow wax 3 parts), or pure olive oil.

Hand-cleaning Paste.

—Cleaning pastes are composed of soap and grit, either with or without some free alkali. Any soap may be used, but a white soap is preferred. Castile soap does not make as firm a paste as soap made from animal fats, and the latter also lather better. For grit, anything may be used, from powdered pumice to fine sand.

A good paste may be made by dissolving soap in the least possible quantity of hot water, and as it cools and sets stirring in the grit. A good formula is:

White soap 2 / 2 pounds

Fine sand 1 pound

Water 5 / 2 pints

Lotion For The Hands.—

Boric acid 1 drachm

Glycerine 6 drachms

Dissolve by heat and mix with

Lanolin 6 drachms

Vaseline 1 ounce

Add any perfume desired. The borated glycerine should be cooled before mixing it with the lanolin.

Cosmetic Jelly.—

Tragacanth (white ribbon) 60 grains

Rose water 14 ounces

Macerate for two days and strain forcibly through coarse muslin or cheese {233} cloth. Add glycerine and alcohol, of each 1 ounce. Perfume to suit. Use immediately after bathing, rubbing in well until dry.

Perspiring Hands.

—I.—Take rectified eau de cologne, 50 parts (by weight); belladonna dye, 8 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; rub gently twice or three times a day with half a ta­ble­spoon­ful of this mixture. One may also employ chalk, carbonate of magnesia, rice starch, hot and cold baths of the hands (as hot and as cold as can be borne), during 6 minutes, followed by a solution of 4 parts of tannin in 32 of glycerine.

II.—Rub the hands several times per day with the following mixture:

By weight

Rose water 125 parts

Borax 10 parts

Glycerine 8 parts

Hand Bleach.

—Lanolin, 30 parts; glycerine, 20 parts; borax, 10 parts; eucalyptol, 2 parts; essential oil of almonds, 1 part. After rubbing the hands with this mixture, cover them with gloves during the night.

For the removal of developing stains, see Photography.

Massage Creams:

Massage Application.—

White potash soap, shaved 20 parts Glycerine 30 parts Water 30 parts Alcohol (90 per cent) 10 parts

Dissolve the soap by heating it with the glycerine and water, mixed. Add the alcohol, and for every 30 ounces of the solution add 5 or 6 drops of the mistura oleoso balsamica, German Pharmacopœia. Filter while hot.

Medicated Massage Balls.

—They are the balls of paraffine wax molded with a smooth or rough surface with menthol, camphor, oil of wintergreen, oil of peppermint, etc., added before shaping. Specially useful in headaches, neuralgias, and rheumatic affections, and many other afflictions of the skin and bones. The method of using them is to roll the ball over the affected part by the aid of the palm of the hand with pressure. Continue until relief is obtained or a sensation of warmth. The only external method for the treatment of all kinds of headaches is the menthol medicated massage ball. This may be made with smooth or corrugated surfaces. Keep wrapped in foil in cool places.

Casein Massage Cream.

—The basis of the modern massage cream is casein. Casein is now produced very cheaply in the powdered form, and by treatment with glycerine and perfumes it is possible to turn out a satisfactory cream. The following formula is suggested:

Skimmed milk 1 gallon

Water of ammonia 1 ounce

Acetic acid 1 ounce

Oil of rose geranium 1 drachm

Oil of bitter almond 1 drachm

Oil of anise 2 drachms

Cold cream (see below), enough.

Carmine enough to color.

Add the water of ammonia to the milk and let it stand 24 hours. Then add the acetic acid and let it stand another 24 hours. Then strain through cheese cloth and add the oils. Work this thoroughly in a Wedgwood mortar, adding enough carmine to color it a delicate pink. To the product thus obtained add an equal amount of cold cream made by the formula herewith given:

White wax 4 ounces

Spermaceti 4 ounces

White petrolatum 12 ounces

Rose water 14 ounces

Borax 80 grains

Melt the wax, spermaceti, and petrolatum together over a water bath; dissolve the borax in the rose water and add to the melted mass at one time. Agitate violently. Presumably the borax solution should be of the same temperature as the melted mass.

Massage Skin Foods.—

This preparation is used in massage for removing wrinkles:

I.— White wax / 2 ounce

Spermaceti / 2 ounce

Cocoanut oil 1 ounce

Lanolin 1 ounce

Oil of sweet almonds 2 ounces

Melt in a porcelain dish, remove from the fire, and add

Orange-flower water 1 ounce

Tincture of benzoin 3 drops

Beat briskly until creamy.

II.— Snow-white cold cream 4 ounces

Lanolin 4 ounces

Oil of Theobroma 4 ounces

White petrolatum oil 4 ounces

Distilled water 4 ounces

In hot weather add

Spermaceti 1 / 2 drachms

White wax 2 / 2 drachms

{234}

In winter the two latter are left out and the proportion of cocoa butter is modified. Prepared and perfumed in proportion same as cold cream.

III.— White petrolatum 7 av. ounces

Paraffine wax / 2 ounce

Lanolin 2 av. ounces

Water 3 fluidounces

Oil of rose 3 drops

Vanillin 2 grains

Alcohol 1 fluidrachm

Melt the paraffine, add the lanolin and petrolatum, and when these have melted pour the mixture into a warm mortar, and, with constant stirring, incorporate the water. When nearly cold add the oil and vanillin, dissolved in the alcohol.

Preparations of this kind should be rubbed into the skin vigorously, as friction assists the absorbed fat in developing the muscles, and also imparts softness and fullness to the skin.

Skin Bleaches, Balms, Lotions, Etc.:

See also Cleaning Methods and Photography for removal of stains caused by photographic developers.

Astringent Wash For Flabby Skin.

—This is used to correct coarse pores, and to remedy an oily or flabby skin. Apply with sponge night and morning:

Cucumber juice 1 / 2 ounces

Tincture of benzoin / 2 ounce

Cologne 1 ounce

Elder-flower water 5 ounces

Put the tincture of benzoin in an 8-ounce bottle, add the other ingredients, previously mixed, and shake slightly. There will be some precipitation of benzoin in this mixture, but it will settle out, or it may be strained out through cheese cloth.

Bleaching Skin Salves.

—A skin-bleaching action, due to the presence of hydrogen peroxide, is possessed by the following mixtures:

I.— Lanolin 30 parts

Bitter almond oil 10 parts

Mix and stir with this salve base a solution of

Borax 1 part

Glycerine 15 parts

Hydrogen peroxide 15 parts

For impure skin the following composition is recommended:

II.— White mercurial ointment 5 grams

Zinc ointment 5 grams

Lanolin 30 grams

Bitter almond oil 10 grams

And gradually stir into this a solution of

Borax 2 grams

Glycerine 30 grams

Rose water 10 grams

Concentrated nitric acid 5 drops

III.— Lanolin 30 grams

Oil sweet almond 10 grams

Borax 1 gram

Glycerine 15 grams

Solution hydrogen peroxide 15 grams

Mix the lanolin and oil, then incorporate the borax previously dissolved in the mixture of glycerine and peroxide solution.

IV.— Ointment ammoniac mercury 5 grams

Ointment zinc oxide 5 grams

Lanolin 30 grams

Oil sweet almond 10 grams

Borax 2 grams

Glycerine 30 grams

Rose water 10 grams

Nitric acid, C. P. 5 drops

Prepare in a similar manner as the foregoing. Rose oil in either ointment makes a good perfume. Both ointments may, of course, be employed as a general skin bleach, which, in fact, is their real office—cosmetic creams.

Emollient Skin Balm.—

Quince seed 1 ounce

Water 7 ounces

Glycerine 1 / 2 ounces

Alcohol 4 / 2 ounces

Salicylic acid 6 grains

Carbolic acid 10 grains

Oil of bay 10 drops

Oil of cloves 5 drops

Oil of orange peel 10 drops

Oil of wintergreen 8 drops

Oil of rose 2 drops

Digest the quince seed in the water for 24 hours, and then press through a cloth; dissolve the salicylic acid in the alcohol; add the carbolic acid to the glycerine; put all together, shake well, and bottle.

Skin Lotion.—

Zinc sulphocarbolate 30 grains

Alcohol (90 per cent) 4 fluidrachms

Glycerine 2 fluidrachms

Tincture of cochineal 1 fluidrachm

Orange-flower water 1 / 2 fluidounces

Rose water (triple) to make 6 fluidounces

{235}

Skin Discoloration.

—Discoloration of the neck may be removed by the use of acids, the simplest of which is that in buttermilk, but if the action of this is too slow try 4 ounces of lactic acid, 2 of glycerine, and 1 of rose water. These will mix without heating. Apply several times daily with a soft linen rag; pour a small quantity into a saucer and dip the cloth into this. If the skin becomes sore use less of the remedy and allay the redness and smarting with a good cold cream. It is always an acid that removes freckles and discolorations, by burning them off. It is well to be slow in its use until you find how severe its action is. It is not wise to try for home making any of the prescriptions which include corrosive sublimate or any other deadly poison. Peroxide of hydrogen diluted with 5 times as much water, also will bleach discolorations. Do not try any of these bleaches on a skin freshly sunburned. For that, wash in hot water, or add to the hot water application enough witch-hazel to scent the water, and after that has dried into the skin it will be soon enough to try other applications.

Detergent For Skin Stains.

—Moritz Weiss has introduced a detergent paste which will remove stains from the skin without attacking it, is non-poisonous, and can be used without hot water. Moisten the hands with a little cold water, apply a small quantity of the paste to the stained skin, rub the hands together for a few minutes, and rinse with cold water. The preparation is a mixture of soft soap and hard tallow, melted together over the fire and incorporated with a little emery powder, flint, glass, sand, quartz, pumice stone, etc., with a little essential oil to mask the smell of the soap. The mixture sets to a mass like putty, but does not dry hard. The approximate proportions of the ingredients are: Soft soap, 30 per cent; tallow, 15 per cent; emery powder, 55 per cent, and a few drops of essential oil.

If an extra detergent quality is desired, 4 ounces of sodium carbonate may be added, and the quantity of soap may be reduced. Paste thus made will attack grease, etc., more readily, but it is harder on the skin.

Removing Inground Dirt.—

Egg albumen 8 parts

Boric acid 1 part

Glycerine 32 parts

Perfume to suit.

Distilled water to make 50 parts

Dissolve the boric acid in a sufficient quantity of water; mix the albumen and glycerine and pass through a silk strainer. Finally, mix the two fluids and add the residue of water.

Every time the hands are washed, dry on a towel, and then moisten them lightly but thoroughly with the liquid, and dry on a soft towel without rubbing. At night, on retiring, apply the mixture and wipe slightly or just enough to take up superfluous liquid; or, better still, sleep in a pair of cotton gloves.

Toilet Creams:

Almond Cold Creams.

—A liquid almond cream may be made by the appended formula. It has been known as milk of almond:

I.— Sweet almonds 5 ounces

White castile soap 2 drachms

White wax 2 drachms

Spermaceti 2 drachms

Oil of bitter almonds 10 minims

Oil of bergamot 20 minims

Alcohol 6 fluidounces

Water, a sufficient quantity.

Beat the almonds in a smooth mortar until as much divided as their nature will admit; then gradually add water in very small quantities, continuing the beating until a smooth paste is obtained; add to this, gradually, one pint of water, stirring well all the time. Strain the resulting emulsion without pressure through a cotton cloth previously well washed to remove all foreign matter. If new, the cloth will contain starch, etc., which must be removed. Add, through the strainer, enough water to bring the measure of the strained liquid to 1 pint. While this operation is going on let the soap be shaved into thin ribbons, and melted, with enough water to cover it, over a very gentle fire or on a water bath. When fluid add the wax and spermaceti in large pieces, so as to allow them to melt slowly, and thereby better effect union with the soap. Stir occasionally. When all is melted place the soapy mixture in a mortar, run into it slowly the emulsion, blending the two all the while with the pestle. Care must be taken not to add the emulsion faster than it can be incorporated with the soap. Lastly add the alcohol in which the perfumes have been previously dissolved, in the same manner, using great care.

This preparation is troublesome to make and rather expensive, and it is perhaps no better for the purpose than glycerine. The mistake is often made of applying the latter too freely, its “stickiness” being unpleasant, and it is {236} best to dilute it largely with water. Such a lotion may be made by mixing

Glycerine 1 part

Rose water 9 parts

Plain water may, of course, be used as the diluent, but a slightly perfumed preparation is generally considered more desirable. The perfume may easily be obtained by dissolving a very small proportion of handkerchief “extract” or some essential oil in the glycerine, and then mixing with plain water.

II.— White wax / 4 ounce

Spermaceti 2 / 2 ounces

Oil of sweet almonds 2 / 2 ounces

Melt, remove from the fire, and add

Rose water 1 / 2 ounces

Beat until creamy: not until cold. When the cream begins to thicken add a few drops of oil of rose. Only the finest almond oil should be used. Be careful in weighing the wax and spermaceti. These precautions will insure a good product.

III.— White wax 4 ounces

Spermaceti 3 ounces

Sweet almond oil 6 fluidounces

Glycerine 4 fluidounces

Oil of rose geranium 1 fluidrachm

Tincture of benzoin 4 fluidrachms

Melt the wax and spermaceti, add the oil of sweet almonds, then beat in the glycerine, tincture of benzoin, and oil of rose geranium. When all are incorporated to a smooth, creamy mass, pour into molds.

IV.— Sweet almonds, blanched 5 ounces

Castile soap, white 120 grains

White wax 120 grains

Spermaceti 120 grains

Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops

Oil of bergamot 20 drops

Alcohol 6 fluidounces

Water, sufficient.

Make an emulsion of the almonds with water so as to obtain 16 fluidounces of product, straining through cotton which has previously been washed to remove starch. Dissolve the soap with the aid of heat in the necessary amount of water to form a liquid, add the wax and spermaceti, continue the heat until the latter is melted, transfer to a mortar, and incorporate the almond emulsion slowly with constant stirring until all has been added and a smooth cream has been formed. Finally, add the two volatile oils.

V.—Melt, at moderate heat,

By weight.

White wax 100 parts

Spermaceti 1,000 parts

Then stir in

Almond oil 500 parts

Rose water 260 parts

And scent with

Bergamot oil 10 parts

Geranium oil 5 parts

Lemon oil 4 parts

By weight.

VI.— Castor oil 500 parts

White wax 100 parts

Almond oil 150 parts

Melt at moderate heat and scent with

Geranium oil 6 parts

Lemon oil 5 parts

Bergamot oil 10 parts

VII.— Almond oil 400 parts

Lanoline 200 parts

White wax 60 parts

Spermaceti 60 parts

Rose water 300 parts

VIII.— White wax 6 parts

Tallow, freshly tried out 4 parts

Spermaceti 2 parts

Oil of sweet almonds 6 parts

Melt together and while still hot add, with constant stirring, 1 part of sodium carbonate dissolved in 79 parts of hot water. Stir until cold. Perfume to the taste.

IX.— Ointment of rose water 1 ounce

Oil of sweet almonds. 1 fluidounce

Glycerine 1 fluidounce

Boric acid 100 grains

Solution of soda 2 / 4 fluidounces

Mucilage of quince seed. 4 fluidounces

Water enough to make 40 fluidounces

Oil of rose, oil of bitter almonds, of each sufficient to perfume.

Heat the ointment, oil, and solution of soda together, stirring constantly until an emulsion or saponaceous mixture is {237} formed. Then warm together the glycerine, acid, and mucilage and about 30 fluidounces of water; mix with the emulsion, stir until cold, and add the remainder of the water. Lastly, add the volatile oils.

The rose-water ointment used should be the “cold cream” of the United States Pharmacopœia.

X.— Spermaceti 2 ounces

White wax 2 ounces

Sweet almond oil 14 fluidounces

Water, distilled 7 fluidounces

Borax, powder 60 grains

Coumarin / 2 grain

Oil of bergamot 24 drops

Oil of rose 6 drops

Oil of bitter almonds 8 drops

Tincture of ambergris 5 drops

Melt the spermaceti and wax, add the sweet almond oil, incorporate the water in which the borax has previously been dissolved, and finally add the oils of bergamot, rose, and bitter almond.

XI.— Honey 2 av. ounces

Castile soap, white powder 1 av. ounce

Oil sweet almonds 26 fluidounces

Oil bitter almonds 1 fluidrachm

Oil bergamot / 2 fluidrachm

Oil cloves 15 drops

Peru balsam 1 fluidrachm

Liquor potassa. Solution carmine, of each sufficient.

Mix the honey with the soap in a mortar, and add enough liquor potassa (about 1 fluidrachm) to produce a nice cream. Mix the volatile oils and balsam with the sweet almond oil, mix this with the cream, and continue the trituration until thoroughly mixed. Finally add, if desired, enough carmine solution to impart a rose tint.

XII.— White wax 800 parts

Spermaceti 800 parts

Sweet almond oil 5,600 parts

Distilled water 2,800 parts

Borax 50 parts

Bergamot oil 20 parts

Attar of rose 5 parts

Coumarin 0.1 part

Add for each pound of the cream 5 drops of etheric oil of bitter almonds, and 3 drops tincture of ambra. Proceed as in making cold cream.

The following also makes a fine cream:

XIII.— Spermaceti 3 parts

White wax 2 parts

Oil of almonds, fresh 12 parts

Rose water, double 1 part

Glycerine, pure 1 part

Melt on a water bath the spermaceti and wax, add the oil (which should be fresh), and pour the whole into a slightly warmed mortar, under constant and lively stirring, to prevent granulation. Continue the trituration until the mass has a white, creamy appearance, and is about the consistence of butter at ordinary temperature. Add, little by little, under constant stirring, the orange-flower water and glycerine mixed, and finally the perfume as before. Continue the stirring for 15 or 20 minutes, then immediately put into containers.

Chappine Cream.—

Quince seed 2 drachms

Glycerine 1 / 2 ounces

Water 1 / 2 ounces

Lead acetate 10 grains

Flavoring, sufficient.

Macerate the quince seed in water, strain, add the glycerine and lead acetate, previously dissolved in sufficient water; flavor with jockey club or orange essence.

Cucumber Creams.—

I.— White wax 3 ounces

Spermaceti 3 ounces

Benzoinated lard 8 ounces

Cucumbers 3 ounces

Melt together the wax, spermaceti, and lard, and infuse in the liquid the cucumbers previously grated. Allow to cool, stirring well; let stand a day, remelt, strain and again stir the “cream” until cold.

II.— Benzoinated lard 5 ounces

Suet 3 ounces

Cucumber juice 10 ounces

Proceed as in making cold cream.

Glycerine Creams.—

I.— Oil of sweet almonds 100 parts

White wax 13 parts

Glycerine, pure 25 parts

Add a sufficient quantity of any suitable perfume.

Melt, on the water bath, the oil, wax, and glycerine together, remove and as the mass cools down add the perfume in sufficient quantity to make a creamy mass. {238}

II.— Quince seed 1 ounce

Boric acid 16 grains

Starch 1 ounce

Glycerine 16 ounces

Carbolic acid 30 minims

Alcohol 12 ounces

Oil of lavender 30 minims

Oil of rose 10 drops

Extract of white rose 1 ounce

Water enough to make 64 ounces

Dissolve the boric acid in a quart of water and in this solution macerate the quince seed for 3 hours; then strain. Heat together the starch and the glycerine until the starch granules are broken, and mix with this the carbolic acid. Dissolve the oils and the extract of rose in the alcohol, and add to the quince-seed mucilage; then mix all together, strain, and add water enough to make the product weigh 64 ounces.

III.— Glycerine 1 ounce

Borax 2 drachms

Boracic acid 1 drachm

Oil rose geranium 30 drops

Oil bitter almond 15 drops

Milk 1 gallon

Heat the milk until it curdles and allow it to stand 12 hours. Strain it through cheese cloth and allow it to stand again for 12 hours. Mix in the salts and glycerine and triturate in a mortar, finally adding the odors and coloring if wanted. The curdled milk must be entirely free from water to avoid separation. If the milk will not curdle fast enough the addition of 1 ounce of water ammonia to a gallon will hasten it. Take a gallon of milk, add 1 ounce ammonia water, heat (not boil), allow to stand 24 hours, and no trouble will be found in forming a good base for the cream.

IV.—This is offered as a substitute for cucumber cream for toilet uses. Melt 15 parts, by weight, of gelatin in hot water containing 15 parts, by weight, of boracic acid as well as 150 parts, by weight, of glycerine; the total amount of water used should not exceed 300 parts, by weight. It may be perfumed or not.

Lanolin Creams.—

I.— Anhydrous lanolin 650 parts

Peach-kernel oil 200 parts

Water 150 parts

Perfume with about 15 drops of ionone or 20 drops of synthetic ylang-ylang.

II.— Lanolin 40 parts

Olive oil 15 parts

Paraffine ointment 10 parts

Aqua naphæ 10 parts

Distilled water 15 parts

Glycerine 5 parts

Boric acid 4 parts

Borax 4 parts

Geranium oil, sufficient.

Extract, triple, of ylang-ylang, quantity sufficient.

III.— Anhydrous lanolin 650 drachms

Almond oil 200 drachms

Water 150 drachms

Oil of ylang-ylang 5 drops

Preparations which have been introduced years ago for the care of the skin and complexion are the glycerine gelées, which have the advantage over lanolin that they go further, but present the drawback of not being so quickly absorbed by the skin. These products are filled either into glasses or into tubes. The latter way is preferable and is more and more adopted, owing to the convenience of handling.

A good recipe for such a gelée is the following:

Moisten white tragacanth powder, 50 parts, with glycerine, 200 parts, and spirit of wine, 100 parts, and shake with a suitable amount of perfume; then quickly mix and shake with warm distilled water, 650 parts.

A transparent slime will form immediately which can be drawn off at once.

Mucilage Creams.—

I.— Starch 30 parts

Carrageen mucilage 480 parts

Boric acid 15 parts

Glycerine 240 parts

Cologne water 240 parts

Boil the starch in the carrageen mucilage, add the boric acid and the glycerine. Let cool, and add the cologne water.

II.— Linseed mucilage 240 parts

Boric acid 2 parts

Salicylic acid 1.3 parts

Glycerine 60 parts

Cologne water 120 parts

Rose water 120 parts

Instead of the cologne water any extracts may be used. Lilac and ylang-ylang are recommended.

Witch-hazel Creams.—

I.— Quince seed 90 grains

Boric acid 8 grains

Glycerine 4 fluidounces

Alcohol 6 fluidounces

Carbolic acid 6 drachms

Cologne water 4 fluidounces

Oil lavender flowers 40 drops

Glycerite starch 4 av. ounces

Distilled witch-hazel extract enough to make 32 fluidounces.

Dissolve the boric acid in 16 ounces of the witch-hazel extract, macerate the quince seed in the solution for 3 hours, strain, add the glycerine, carbolic acid, and glycerite, and mix well. Mix the alcohol, cologne water, lavender oil, and mucilages, incorporate with the previous mixture, and add enough witch-hazel extract to bring to the measure of 32 fluidounces.

II.— Quince seed 4 ounces

Hot water 16 ounces

Glycerine 32 ounces

Witch-hazel water 128 ounces

Boric acid 6 ounces

Rose extract 2 ounces

Violet extract 1 ounce

Macerate the quince seed in the hot water; add the glycerine and witch-hazel, in which the boric acid has been previously dissolved; let the mixture stand for 2 days, stirring occasionally; strain and add the perfume.

Skin Cream For Collapsible Tubes.—

I.— White vaseline 6 ounces

White wax 1 ounce

Spermaceti 5 drachms

Subchloride bismuth 6 drachms

Attar of rose 6 minims

Oil of bitter almonds 1 minim

Rectified spirit / 2 ounce

Melt the vaseline, wax, and spermaceti together, and while cooling incorporate the subchloride of bismuth (in warm mortar). Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, and add to the fatty mixture, stirring all until uniform and cold. In cold weather the quantities of wax and spermaceti may be reduced.

II.— Lanolin 1 ounce

Almond oil 1 ounce

Oleate of zinc (powder) 3 drachms

Extract of white rose 1 / 2 drachms

Glycerine 2 drachms

Rose water 2 drachms

Face Cream Without Grease.—

Quince seed 10 parts

Boiling water 1,000 parts

Borax 5 parts

Boric acid 5 parts

Glycerine 100 parts

Alcohol, 94 per cent 125 parts

Attar of rose, quantity sufficient to perfume.

Macerate the quince seed in half of the boiling water, with frequent agitations, for 2 hours and 30 minutes, then strain off. In the residue of the boiling water dissolve the borax and boric acid, add the glycerine and the perfume, the latter dissolved in the alcohol. Now add, little by little, the colate of quince seed, under constant agitation, which should be kept up for 5 minutes after the last portion of the colate is added.

Toilet Milks:

Cucumber Milk.—

Simple cerate 2 pounds

Powdered borax 11 / 2 ounces

Powdered castile soap 10 ounces

Glycerine 26 ounces

Alcohol 24 ounces

Cucumber juice 32 ounces

Water to 5 gallons

Ionone 1 drachm

Jasmine / 2 drachm

Neroli / 2 drachm

Rhodinol 15 minims

To the melted cerate in a hot water bath add the soap and stir well, keeping up the heat until perfectly mixed. Add 8 ounces of borax to 1 gallon of boiling water, and pour gradually into the hot melted soap and cerate; add the remainder of the borax and hot water, then the heated juice and glycerine, and lastly the alcohol. Shake well while cooling, set aside for 48 hours, and siphon off any water that may separate. Shake well, and repeat after standing again if necessary; then perfume.

Cucumber Juice.

—It is well to make a large quantity, as it keeps indefinitely. Washed unpeeled cucumbers are grated and pressed; the juice is heated, skimmed and boiled for 5 minutes, then cooled and filtered. Add 1 part of alcohol to 2 parts of juice, let stand for 12 hours or more, and filter until clear.

Glycerine Milk.—

Glycerine 1,150 parts

Starch, powdered 160 parts

Distilled water 400 parts

Tincture of benzoin 20 parts

Rub up 80 parts of the starch with the glycerine, then put the mixture on the steam bath and heat, under continuous stirring, until it forms a jellylike mass. Remove from the bath and stir in the remainder of the starch. Finally, add the water and tincture and stir till homogeneous.

Lanolin Toilet Milk.—

White castile soap, powdered 22 grains

Lanolin 1 ounce

Tincture benzoin 12 drachms

Water, enough.

{240}

Dissolve the soap in 2 fluidounces of warm water, also mix the lanolin with 2 fluidounces of warm water; then incorporate the two with each other, finally adding the tincture. The latter may be replaced by 90 grains of powdered borax.

Jasmine Milk.

—To 25 parts of water add gradually, with constant stirring, 1 part of zinc white, 2 quarts of grain spirit, and 0.15 to 0.25 part of glycerine; finally stir in 0.07 to 0.10 part of jasmine essence. Filter the mixture and fill into glass bottles. For use as a cosmetic, rub on the raspberry paste on retiring at night, and in the morning use the jasmine milk to remove the paste from the skin. The two work together in their effect.

Sunburn And Freckle Remedies.

I.—Apply over the affected skin a solution of corrosive sublimate, 1 in 500, or, if the patient can stand it, 1 in 300, morning and evening, and for the night apply emplastrum hydrargyri compositum to the spots. In the morning remove the plaster and all remnants of it by rubbing fresh butter or cold cream over the spots.

For redness of the skin apply each other day zinc oxide ointment or ointment of bismuth subnitrate.

II.—Besnier recommends removal of the mercurial ointment with green soap, and the use, at night, of an ointment composed of vaseline and Vigo’s plaster (emplastrum hydrargyri compositum), in equal parts. In the morning wash off with soap and warm water, and apply the following:

Vaseline, white 20 parts

Bismuth carbonate 5 parts

Kaolin 5 parts

Mix, and make an ointment.

III.—Leloir has found the following of service. Clean the affected part with green soap or with alcohol, and then apply several coats of the following:

Acid chrysophanic 15 parts

Chloroform 100 parts

Mix. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil.

When the application dries thoroughly, go over it with a layer of traumaticine. This application will loosen itself in several days, when the process should be repeated.

IV.—When the skin is only slightly discolored use a pomade of salicylic acid, or apply the following:

Acid chrysophanic, from 1 to 4 parts

Acid salicylic 1 to 2 parts

Collodion 40 parts

V.—When there is need for a more complicated treatment, the following is used:

(a) Corrosive sublimate 1 part

Orange-flower water 7,500 parts

Acid, hydrochloric, dilute 500 parts

(b) Bitter almonds 4,500 parts

Glycerine 2,500 parts

Orange-flower water 25,000 parts

Rub up to an emulsion in a porcelain capsule. Filter and add, drop by drop, and under constant stirring, 5 grams of tincture of benzoin. Finally mix the two solutions, adding the second to the first.

This preparation is applied with a sponge, on retiring, to the affected places, and allowed to dry on.

VI.—According to Brocq the following should be penciled over the affected spots:

Fresh pure milk 50 parts

Glycerine 30 parts

Acid, hydrochloric, concentrated 5 parts

Ammonium chlorate 3 parts

VII.—Other external remedies that may be used are lactic acid diluted with 3 volumes of water, applied with a glass rod; dilute nitric acid, and, finally, peroxide of hydrogen, which last is a very powerful agent. Should it cause too much inflammation, the latter may be assuaged by using an ointment of zinc oxide or bismuth subnitrate—or one may use the following:

Kaolin 4 parts

Vaseline 10 parts

Glycerine 4 parts

Magnesium carbonate 2 parts

Zinc oxide 2 parts

Freckle Remedies.—

I.— Poppy oil 1 part

Lead acetate 2 parts

Tincture benzoin 1 part

Tincture quillaia 5 parts

Spirit nitrous ether 1 part

Rose water 95 parts

Saponify the oil with the lead acetate; add the rose water, and follow with the tinctures.

II.— Chloral hydrate 2 drachms

Carbolic acid 1 drachm

Tincture iodine 60 drops

Glycerine 1 ounce

Mix and dissolve. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil at night.

III.— Distilled vinegar 660 parts

Lemons, cut in small pieces 135 parts

Alcohol, 85 per cent 88 parts

Lavender oil 23 parts

Water 88 parts

Citron oil 6 parts

This mixture is allowed to stand for 3 or 4 days in the sun and filtered. Coat, by means of a sponge before retiring, the places of the skin where the freckles are and allow to dry.

Freckles And Liver Spots.

—Modern dermatological methods of treating freckles and liver spots are based partly on remedies that cause desquamation and those that depigmentate (or destroy or neutralize pigmentation). Both methods may be distinguished in respect to their effects and mode of using into the following: The active ingredients of the desquamative pastes are reductives which promote the formation of epithelium and hence expedite desquamation.

There are many such methods, and especially to be mentioned is that of Unna, who uses resorcin for the purpose. Lassar makes use of a paste of naphthol and sulphur.

Sunburn Remedies.—

I.— Zinc sulphocarbolate 1 part

Glycerine. 20 parts

Rose water 70 parts

Alcohol, 90 per cent 8 parts

Cologne water 1 part

Spirit of camphor 1 part

II.— Borax 4 parts

Potassium chlorate 2 parts

Glycerine 10 parts

Alcohol 4 parts

Rose water to make 90 parts

III.— Citric acid 2 drachms

Ferrous sulphate (cryst.) 18 grains

Camphor 2 grains

Elder-flower water 3 fluidounces

IV.— Potassium carbonate 3 parts

Sodium chloride 2 parts

Orange-flower water 15 parts

Rose water 65 parts

V.— Boroglycerine, 50 per cent 1 part

Ointment of rose water 9 parts

VI.— Sodium bicarbonate 1 part

Ointment of rose water 7 parts

VII.— Bicarbonate of soda 2 drachms

Powdered borax 1 drachm

Compound tincture of lavender 1 / 2 drachms

Glycerine 1 ounce

Rose water 4 ounces

Dissolve the soda and borax in the glycerine and rose water, and add the tincture. Apply with a small piece of sponge 2 or 3 times a day. Then gently dry by dabbing with a soft towel.

VIII.— Quince seeds 2 drachms

Distilled water 10 ounces

Glycerine 2 ounces

Alcohol, 94 per cent 1 ounce

Rose water 2 ounces

Boil the seeds in the water for 10 minutes, then strain off the liquid, and when cold add to it the glycerine, alcohol, and rose water.

IX.— White soft soap 2 / 2 drachms

Glycerine 1 / 2 drachms

Almond oil 11 drachms

Well mix the glycerine and soap in a mortar, and very gradually add the oil, stirring constantly until perfectly mixed.

X.— Subnitrate of bismuth 1 / 2 drachms

Powdered French chalk 30 grains

Glycerine 2 drachms

Rose water 1 / 2 ounces

Mix the powders, and rub down carefully with the glycerine; then add the rose water. Shake the bottle before use.

XI.— Glycerine cream 2 drachms

Jordan almonds 4 drachms

Rose water 5 ounces

Essential oil of almonds 3 drops

Blanch the almonds, and then dry and beat them up into a perfectly smooth paste; then mix in the glycerine cream and essential oil. Gradually add the rose water, stirring well after each addition; then strain through muslin.

Tan And Freckle Lotion.—

Solution A:

Potassium iodide, iodine, glycerine, and infusion rose.

Dissolve the potassium iodide in a {242} small quantity of the infusion and a drachm of the glycerine; with this fluid moisten the iodine in a glass of water and rub it down, gradually adding more liquid, until complete solution has been obtained; then stir in the remainder of the ingredients, and bottle the mixture.

Solution B:

Sodium thiosulphate and rose water. With a small camel’s-hair pencil or piece of fine sponge apply a little of solution A to the tanned or freckled surface, until a slight or tolerably uniform brownish yellow skin has been produced. At the expiration of 15 or 20 minutes moisten a piece of cambric, lint, or soft rag with B and lay it upon the affected part, removing, squeezing away the liquid, soaking it afresh, and again applying until the iodine stain has disappeared. Repeat the process thrice daily, but diminish the frequency of application if tenderness be produced.

A Cure For Tan.

—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 10 grains; distilled water, 1 pint. Agitate the two together until a complete solution is obtained. Add / 2 ounce of glycerine. Apply with a small sponge as often as agreeable. This is not strong enough to blister and skin the face in average cases. It may be increased or reduced in strength by adding to or taking from the amount of bichloride of mercury. Do not forget that this last ingredient is a powerful poison and should be kept out of the reach of children and ignorant persons.

Improved Carron Oil.

—Superior to the old and more suitable. A desirable preparation for burns, tan, freckle, sunburn, scalds, abrasions, or lung affections. Does not oxidize so quickly or dry up so rapidly and less liable to rancidity.

Linseed oil 2 ounces

Limewater 2 ounces

Paraffine, liquid 1 ounce

Mix the linseed oil and water, and add the paraffine. Shake well before using.

Liver Spots.

I.— Corrosive sublimate 1 part

White sugar 190 parts

White of egg 34 parts

Lemon juice 275 parts

Water to make 2,500 parts

Mix the sublimate, sugar, and albumen intimately, then add the lemon juice and water. Dissolve, shake well, and after standing an hour, filter. Apply in the morning after the usual ablutions, and let dry on the face.

II.—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 8 grains; witch-hazel, 2 ounces; rose water, 2 ounces.

Agitate until a solution is obtained. Mop over the affected parts. Keep out of the way of ignorant persons and children.

Toilet Powders:

Almond Powders For The Toilet.—

I.— Almond meal 6,000 parts

Bran meal 3,000 parts

Soap powder 600 parts

Bergamot oil 50 parts

Lemon oil 15 parts

Clove oil 15 parts

Neroli oil 6 parts

II.— Almond meal 7,000 parts

Bran meal 2,000 parts

Violet root 900 parts

Borax 350 parts

Bitter almond oil 18 parts

Palmarosa oil 36 parts

Bergamot oil 10 parts

III.— Almond meal 3,000 parts

Bran meal 3,000 parts

Wheat flour 3,000 parts

Sand 100 parts

Lemon oil 40 parts

Bitter almond oil 10 parts

Bath Powder.—

Borax 4 ounces

Salicylic acid 1 drachm

Extract of cassia 1 drachm

Extract of jasmine 1 drachm

Oil of lavender 20 minims

Rub the oil and extracts with the borax and salicylic acid until the alcohol has evaporated. Use a heaping teaspoonful to the body bath.

Brunette Or Rachelle.—

Base 9 pounds

Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound

Perfume the same.

Powdered yellow ocher . . . (av.) 3 ounces 120 grains

Carmine No. 40 60 grains

Rub down the carmine and ocher with alcohol in a mortar, and spread on glass to dry; then mix and sift.

Violet Poudre De Riz.—

I.— Cornstarch 7 pounds

Rice flour 1 pound

Powdered talc 1 pound

Powdered orris root 1 pound

Extract of cassia 3 ounces

Extract of jasmine 1 ounce

{243}

II.—Cheaper.

Potato starch 8 pounds

Powdered talc 1 pound

Powdered orris 1 pound

Extract of cassia 3 ounces

Barber’s Powder.—

Cornstarch 5 pounds

Precipitated chalk 3 pounds

Powdered talc 2 pounds

Oil of neroli 1 drachm

Oil of cedrat 1 drachm

Oil of orange 2 drachms

Extract of jasmine 1 ounce

Rose Poudre De Riz.—

I.— Cornstarch 9 pounds

Powdered talc 1 pound

Oil of rose 1 / 4 drachms

Extract of jasmine 6 drachms

II.— Potato starch 9 pounds

Powdered talc 1 pound

Oil of rose / 2 drachm

Extract of jasmine / 2 ounce

Ideal Cosmetic Powder.

—The following combines the best qualities that a powder for the skin should have:

Zinc, white 50 parts

Calcium carbonate, precipitated 300 parts

Steatite, best white 50 parts

Starch, wheat, or rice 100 parts

Extract white rose, triple 3 parts

Extract jasmine, triple 3 parts

Extract orange flower, triple 3 parts

Extract of cassia, triple 3 parts

Tincture of myrrh 1 part

Powder the solids and mix thoroughly by repeated siftings.

Flesh Face Powder.—

Base 9 pounds

Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound

Carmine No. 40 250 grains

Extract of jasmine 100 minims

Oil of neroli 20 minims

Vanillin 5 grains

Artificial musk 30 grains

White heliotropin 30 grains

Coumarin 1 grain

Rub the carmine with a portion of the base and alcohol in a mortar, mixing the perfume the same way in another large mortar, and adding the orris. Mix and sift all until specks of carmine disappear on rubbing.

White Face Powder.—

Base 9 pounds

Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound

Perfume the same. Mix and sift.

Talcum Powders.

—Talc, when used as a toilet powder should be in a state of very fine division. Antiseptics are sometimes added in small proportion, but these are presumably of little or no value in the quantity allowable, and may prove irritating. For general use, at all events, the talcum alone is the best and the safest. As a perfume, rose oil may be employed, but on account of its cost, rose geranium oil is probably more frequently used. A satisfactory proportion is / 2 drachm of the oil to a pound of the powder. In order that the perfume may be thoroughly disseminated throughout the powder, the oil should be triturated first with a small portion of it; this should then be further triturated with a larger portion, and, if the quantity operated on be large, the final mixing may be effected by sifting. Many odors besides that of rose would be suitable for a toilet powder. Ylang-ylang would doubtless prove very attractive, but expensive.

The following formulas for other varieties of the powder may prove useful:

Violet Talc.—

I.— Powdered talc 14 ounces

Powdered orris root 2 ounces

Extract of cassia / 2 ounce

Extract of jasmine / 4 ounce

Rose Talc.—

II.— Powdered talc 5 pounds

Oil of rose / 2 drachm

Extract of jasmine 4 ounces

Tea-Rose Talc.—

III.— Powdered talc 5 pounds

Oil of rose 50 drops

Oil of wintergreen 4 drops

Extract of jasmine 2 ounces

Borated Apple Blossom.—

IV.— Powdered talc 22 pounds

Magnesium carbonate 2 / 4 pounds

Powdered boric acid 1 pound

Mix.

Carnation pink blossom (Schimmel’s) 2 ounces

Extract of trefle 2 drachms

To 12 drachms of this mixture add:

Neroli 1 drachm

Vanillin / 2 drachm

Alcohol to 3 ounces

Sufficient for 25 pounds.

V.— Talcum 8 ounces

Starch 8 ounces

Oil of neroli 10 drops

Oil of ylang-ylang 5 drops

VI.— Talcum 12 ounces

Starch 4 ounces

Orris root 2 ounces

Oil of bergamot 12 drops

VII.— Talcum 14 ounces

Starch 2 ounces

Lanolin / 2 ounce

Oil of rose 10 drops

Oil of neroli 5 drops

Toilet Vinegars:

Pumillo Toilet Vinegar.—

Alcohol, 80 per cent 1,600 parts

Vinegar, 10 per cent 840 parts

Oil of pinu spumillo 44 parts

Oil of lavender 4 parts

Oil of lemon 2 parts

Oil of bergamot 2 parts

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the vinegar, let stand for a week and filter.

Vinaigre Rouge.—

Acetic acid 24 parts

Alum 3 parts

Peru balsam 1 part

Carmine, No. 40 12 parts

Ammonia water 6 parts

Rose water, distilled 575 parts

Alcohol 1,250 parts

Dissolve the balsam of Peru in the alcohol, and the alum in the rose water. Mix the two solutions, add the acetic acid, and let stand overnight. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia water and add to mixture. Shake thoroughly, let stand for a few minutes, then decant.

Toilet Waters:

“Beauty Water.”—

Fresh egg albumen 500 parts

Alcohol 125 parts

Lemon oil 2 parts

Lavender oil 2 parts

Oil of thyme 2 parts

Mix the ingredients well together. When first mixed the liquid becomes flocculent, but after standing for 2 or 3 days clears up—sometimes becomes perfectly clear, and may be decanted. It forms a light, amber-colored liquid that remains clear for months.

At night, before retiring, pour about a teaspoonful of the water in the palm of the hand, and rub it over the face and neck, letting it dry on. In the morning, about an hour before the bath, repeat the operation, also letting the liquid dry on the skin. The regular use of this preparation for 4 weeks will give the skin an extraordinary fineness, clearness, and freshness.

Rottmanner’s Beauty Water.

—Koller says that this preparation consists of 1 part of camphor, 5 parts of milk of sulphur, and 50 parts of rose water.

Birch Waters.

—Birch water, which has many cosmetic applications, especially as a hair wash, or an ingredient in hair washes, may be prepared as follows:

I.— Alcohol, 96 per cent 3,500 parts

Water 700 parts

Potash soap 200 parts

Glycerine 150 parts

Oil of birch buds 50 parts

Essence of spring flowers 100 parts

Chlorophyll, quantity sufficient to color.

Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally, add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which is added a little tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a lather.

II.— Alcohol, 96 per cent 2,000 parts

Water 500 parts

Tincture of cantharides 25 parts

Salicylic acid 25 parts

Glycerine 100 parts

Oil of birch buds 40 parts

Bergamot oil 30 parts

Geranium oil 5 parts

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the acid and tincture of cantharides; mix the water and glycerine and add, and, finally, color as before.

III.— Alcohol 30,000 parts

Birch juice 3,000 parts

Glycerine 1,000 parts

Bergamot oil 90 parts

Vanillin 10 parts

Geranium oil 50 parts

Water 14,000 parts

IV.— Alcohol 40,000 parts

Oil of birch 150 parts

Bergamot oil 100 parts

Lemon oil 50 parts

Palmarosa oil 100 parts

Glycerine 2,000 parts

Borax 150 parts

Water 20,000 parts

Violet Ammonia Water.

—Most preparations of this character consist of either coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, with or without the addition of ammonia water, or of a coarsely powdered mixture, which slowly evolves the odor of ammonia, the whole being perfumed by the addition of volatile oil, pomade essences, or handkerchief extract. The following are typical formulas:

I.—Moisten coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, contained in a suitable bottle, with a mixture of concentrated tincture of orris root, 2 / 2 ounces; aromatic spirit of ammonia, 1 drachm; violet extract, 3 drachms.

II.—Fill suitable bottles with coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate and add to the salt as much of the following solution as it will absorb: Oil of orris, 5 minims; oil of lavender flowers, 10 minims; violet extract, 30 minims; stronger water of ammonia, 2 fluidounces.

III.—The following is a formula for a liquid preparation: Extract violet, 8 fluidrachms; extract cassia, 8 fluidrachms; spirit of rose, 4 fluidrachms; tincture of orris, 4 fluidrachms; cologne spirit, 1 pint; spirit of ammonia, 1 ounce. Spirit of ionone may be used instead of extract of violet.

Violet Witch-hazel.—

Spirit of ionone / 2 drachm

Rose water 6 ounces

Distilled extract of witch-hazel enough to make 16 ounces

Cotton

Bleaching Of Cotton:

I.—Bleaching by Steaming.—The singed and washed cotton goods are passed through hydrochloric acid of 2° Bé. Leave them in heaps during 1 hour, wash, pass through sodium hypochlorite of 10° Bé. diluted with 10 times the volume of water. Let the pieces lie in heaps for 1 hour, wash, pass through caustic soda lye of 38° Bé. diluted with 8 times its volume of water, steam, put again through sodium chloride, wash, acidulate slightly with hydrochloric acid, wash and dry. Should the whiteness not be sufficient, repeat the operations.

II.—Bleaching with Calcium Sulphite.—The cotton goods are impregnated with 1 part, by weight, of water, 1 part of caustic lime, and / 2 part of bisulphite of 40° Bé.; next steamed during 1–2 hours at a pressure of / 2 atmosphere, washed, acidulated, washed and dried. The result is as white a fabric as by the old method with caustic lime, soda, and calcium chloride. The bisulphite may also be replaced by calcium hydrosulphite, and, instead of steaming, the fabric may be boiled for several hours with calcium sulphite.

III.—Bleaching of Vegetable Fibers with Hydrogen Peroxide.—Pass the pieces through a solution containing caustic soda, soap, hydrogen peroxide, and burnt magnesia. The pieces are piled in heaps on carriages; the latter are shoved into the well-known apparatus of Mather & Platt (kier), and the liquid is pumped on for 6 hours, at a pressure of / 3 atmosphere. Next wash, acidulate, wash and dry. The bleaching may also be done on an ordinary reeling vat. For 5 pieces are needed about 1,000 parts, by weight, of water; 10 parts, by weight, of solid caustic soda; 1 part of burnt magnesia; 30 parts, by weight, of hydrogen peroxide. After 3–4 hours’ boiling, wash, acidulate, wash and dry. The bleaching may also be performed by passing through barium peroxide, then through sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid, and next through soda lye. It is practicable also to commence with the latter and finally give a treatment with hydrogen peroxide.

The whiteness obtained by the above process is handsomer than that produced by the old method with hypochlorites, and the fabric is weakened to a less extent.

Tests For Cotton.

I.—Cotton, when freed from extraneous matter by boiling with potash, and afterwards with hydrochloric acid, yields pure cellulose or absorbent cotton, which, according to the U. S. P., is soluble in copper ammonium sulphate solution. The B. P. is more specific and states that cotton is soluble in a concentrated solution of copper ammonium sulphate. The standard test solution (B. P.) is made by dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 160 parts of distilled water, and cautiously adding solution of ammonia to the liquid until the precipitate first formed is nearly dissolved. The product is then filtered and the filtrate made up to 200 parts with distilled {246} water. The concentrated solution is prepared by using a smaller quantity of distilled water.

II.—Schweitzer’s reagent for textile fibers and cellulose is made by dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 100 parts of water and adding a solution of 5 parts of potassium hydrate in 50 parts of water; then wash the precipitate and dissolve in 20 per cent ammonia until saturated. This solution dissolves cotton, linen, and silk, but not wool. The reagent is said to be especially useful in microscopy, as it rapidly dissolves cellulose, but has no action on lignin.

III.—Jandrier’s Test for Cotton in Woolen Fabrics.—Wash the sample of fabric and treat with sulphuric acid (20 Bé.) for half an hour on the water bath. To 100 to 200 parts of this solution add 1 part resorcin, and overlay on concentrated sulphuric acid free from nitrous products. The heat developed is sufficient to give a color at the contact point of the liquids, but intensity of color may be increased by slightly heating. If the product resulting from treating the cotton is made up 1 in 1,000, resorcin will give an orange color; alphanaphtol a purple; gallic acid a green gradually becoming violet down in the acid; hydroquinone or pyrogallol a brown; morphine or codeine, a lavender; thymol or menthol a pink. Cotton may be detected in colored goods, using boneblack to decolorize the solution, if necessary.

IV.—Overbeck’s test for cotton in woolen consists in soaking the fabric in an aqueous solution of alloxantine (1 in 10), and after drying expose to ammonia vapor and rinse in water. Woolen material is colored crimson, cotton remains blue.

V.—Liebermann’s Test.—Dye the fabric for half an hour in fuchsine solution rendered light yellow by caustic soda solution and then washed with water—silk is colored dark red; wool, light red; flax, pink; and cotton remains colorless.

To Distinguish Cotton from Linen.—Take a sample about an inch and a half square of the cloth to be tested and plunge it into a tepid alcoholic solution of cyanine. After the coloring matter has been absorbed by the fiber, rinse it in water and then plunge into dilute sulphuric acid. If it is of cotton the sample will be almost completely bleached, while linen preserves the blue color almost unchanged. If the sample be then plunged in ammonia, the blue will be strongly reinforced.

Aromatic Cotton.

—Aromatic cotton is produced as follows: Mix camphor, 5 parts; pine-leaf oil, 5 parts; clove oil, 5 parts; spirit of wine (90 per cent), 80 parts; and distribute evenly on cotton, 500 parts, by means of an atomizer. The cotton is left pressed together in a tightly closed tin vessel for a few days.

Cotton Degreasing.

—Cotton waste, in a greasy condition, is placed in an acid-proof apparatus, where it is simultaneously freed from grease, etc., and prepared for bleaching by the following process, which is performed without the waste being removed from the apparatus: (1) treatment with a solvent, such as benzine; (2) steaming, for the purpose of vaporizing and expelling from the cotton waste the solvent still remaining in it after as much as possible of this has been recovered by draining; (3) treatment with a mineral acid; (4) boiling with an alkali lye; (5) washing with water.

Cottonseed Hulls as Stock Food.

Cottonseed hulls or other material containing fiber difficult of digestion are thoroughly mixed with about 5 per cent of their weight of hydrochloric acid (specific gravity, 1.16), and heated in a closed vessel, provided with a stirrer, to a temperature of 212° to 300° F. The amount of acid to be added depends on the material employed and on the duration of the heating. By heating for 30 minutes the above percentage of acid is required, but the quantity may be reduced if the heating is prolonged. After heating, the substance is ground and at the same time mixed with some basic substances such as sodium carbonate, chalk, cottonseed kernel meal, etc., to neutralize the acid. During the heating, the acid vapors coming from the mixture may be led into a second quantity of material contained in a separate vessel, air being drawn through both vessels to facilitate the removal of the acid vapors.

COTTONSEED OIL: See Oil.

COTTONSEED OIL IN FOOD, TESTS FOR: See Foods.

COTTONSEED OIL IN LARD, DETECTION OF: See Foods and Lard.

COUGH CANDY: See Confectionery.

COUGH MIXTURES FOR CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas. {247}

COUGH MIXTURES AND REMEDIES: See Cold and Cough Mixtures.

Court Plasters

(See also Plasters.)

Liquid Court Plaster.

—I.—If soluble guncotton is dissolved in acetone in the proportion of about 1 part, by weight, of the former to 35 or 40 parts, by volume, of the latter, and half a part each of castor oil and glycerine be added, a colorless, elastic, and flexible film will form on the skin wherever it is applied. Unlike ordinary collodion it will not be likely to dry and peel off. If tinted very slightly with alkanet and saffron it can be made to assume the color of the skin so that when applied it is scarcely observable. A mixture of warm solution of sodium silicate and casein, about 9 parts of the former to 1 part of the latter, gelatinizes and forms a sort of liquid court plaster.

II.—In order to make liquid court plaster flexible, collodion, U. S. P., is the best liquid that can possibly be recommended. It may be made by weighing successively into a tarred bottle:

Collodion 4 av. ounces

Canada turpentine 95 grains

Castor oil 57 grains

Before applying, the skin should be perfectly dry; each application or layer should be permitted to harden. Three or four coats are usually sufficient.

III.—Procure an ounce bottle and fill it three-fourths full of flexible collodion, and fill up with ether. Apply to cuts, bruises, etc., and it protects them and will not wash off. If the ether evaporates, leaving it too thick for use, have more ether put in to liquefy it. It is a good thing to have in the house and in the tool chest.

COW DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.

CRAYONS: See Pencils.

Crayons for Graining and Marbling.

Heat 4 parts of water and 1 part of white wax over a fire until the wax has completely dissolved. Stir in 1 part of purified potash. When an intimate combination has taken place, allow to cool and add a proportionate quantity of gum arabic. With this mixture the desired colors are ground thick enough so that they can be conveniently rolled into a pencil with chalk. The desired shades must be composed on the grinding slab as they are wanted, and must not be simply left in their natural tone. Use, for instance, umber, Vandyke brown, and white lead for oak; umber alone would be too dark for walnut use. All the earth colors can be conveniently worked up. It is best to prepare 2 or 3 crayons of each set, mixing the first a little lighter by the addition of white lead and leaving the others a little darker. The pencils should be kept in a dry place and are more suitable for graining and marbling than brushes, since they can be used with either oil or water.

CRAYONS FOR WRITING ON GLASS: See Etching, and Glass.

Cream

(See also Milk.)

Whipped Cream.

—There are many ways to whip cream. The following is very highly indorsed: Keep the cream on ice until ready to whip. Take 2 earthen vessels about 6 inches in diameter. Into 1 bowl put 1 pint of rich sweet cream, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sugar, and 5 drops of best vanilla extract. Add the white of 1 egg and beat with large egg beater or use whipping apparatus until 2 inches of froth has formed; skim off the froth into the other vessel and so proceed whipping and skimming until all the cream in the first vessel has been exhausted. The whipped cream will stand up all day and should be let stand in the vessel on ice.

Special machines have been constructed for whipping cream, but most dispensers prepare it with an ordinary egg beater. Genuine whipped cream is nothing other than pure cream into which air has been forced by the action of the different apparatus manufactured for the purpose; care must, however, be exercised in order that butter is not produced instead of whipped cream. To avoid this the temperature of the cream must be kept at a low degree and the whipping must not be too violent or prolonged; hence the following rules must be observed in order to produce the desired result: {248}

1. Secure pure cream and as fresh as possible.

2. Surround the bowl in which the cream is being whipped with cracked ice, and perform the operation in a cool place.

3. As rapidly as the whipped cream arises, skim it off and place it in another bowl, likewise surrounded with ice.

4. Do not whip the cream too long or too violently.

5. The downward motion of the beater should be more forcible than the upward, as the first has a tendency to force the air into the cream, while the second, on the contrary, tends to expel it.

6. A little powdered sugar should be added to the cream after it is whipped, in order to sweeten it.

7. Make whipped cream in small quantities and keep it on ice.

I.—Cummins’s Whipped Cream.—Place 12 ounces of rich cream on the ice for about 1 hour; then with a whipper beat to a consistency that will withstand its own weight.

II.—Eberle’s Whipped Cream.—Take a pint of fresh, sweet cream, which has been chilled by being placed on the ice, add to it a heaping ta­ble­spoon­ful of powdered sugar and 2 ounces of a solution of gelatin (a spoonful dissolved in 2 ounces of water), whip slowly for a minute or two until a heavy froth gathers on top. Skim off the dense froth, and put in container for counter use; continue this until you have frothed all that is possible.

III.—Foy’s Whipped Cream.—Use only pure cream; have it ice cold, and in a convenient dish for whipping with a wire whipper. A clear, easy, quick, and convenient way is to use a beater. Fill about one-half full of cream, and beat vigorously for 2 or 3 minutes; a little powdered sugar may be added before beating. The cream may be left in the beater, and placed on ice.

IV.—American Soda Fountain Company’s Whipped Cream.—Take 2 earthen bowls and 2 tin pans, each 6 or 8 inches greater in diameter than the bowls; place a bowl in each pan, surround it with broken ice, put the cream to be whipped in 1 bowl, and whip it with a whipped cream churn. The cream should be pure and rich, and neither sugar nor gelatin should be added to it. As the whipped cream rises and fills the bowl, remove the churn, and skim off the whipped cream into the other bowl.

The philosophy of the process is that the churn drives air into the cream, and blows an infinity of tiny bubbles, which forms the whipped cream; therefore, in churning, raise the dasher gently and slowly, and bring it down quickly and forcibly. When the second bowl is full of whipped cream, pour off the liquid cream, which has settled to the bottom, into the first bowl, and whip it again. Keep the whipped cream on ice.

The addition of an even teaspoonful of salt to 1 quart of sweet cream, before whipping, will make it whip up very readily and stiff, and stand up much longer and better.

Cresol Emulsion.

One of the best starting points for the preparation is the “creosote” obtained from blast furnaces, which is rich in cresols and contains comparatively little phenols. The proportions used are: Creosote, 30 parts; soft soap, 10 parts; and solution of soda (10 per cent), 30 parts. Boil the ingredients together for an hour, then place aside to settle. The dark fluid is afterwards drained from any oily portion floating upon the top.

CREAM, COLD: See Cosmetics.

CREAMS FOR THE FACE AND SKIN: See Cosmetics.

CREOSOTE SOAP: See Soap.

CROCKERY: See Ceramics.

CROCKERY CEMENTS: See Adhesives.

Crocus.

The substance known as “crocus,” which is so exceedingly useful as a polishing medium for steel, etc., may be very generally obtained in the cinders produced from coal containing iron. It will be easily recognized by its rusty color, and should be collected and reduced to a powder for future use. Steel burnishers may be brought to a high state of polish with this substance by rubbing them upon a buff made of soldiers’ belt or hard wood. After this operation, the burnisher should be rubbed on a second buff charged with jewelers’ rouge.

CRYSTAL CEMENTS FOR REUNITING BROKEN PIECES: See Adhesives, under Cements. {249}

CRYSTALLIZATION, ORNAMENTAL: See Gardens, Chemical.

CUCUMBER ESSENCE: See Essences and Extracts.

CUCUMBER JELLY, JUICE, AND MILK: See Cosmetics.

CURAÇOA CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

CURTAINS, COLORING OF: See Laundry Preparations.

CURRY POWDER: See Condiments.

Custard Powder:

Corn flour 7 pounds

Arrowroot 8 pounds

Oil of almond 20 drops

Oil of nutmegs 10 drops

Tincture of saffron to color.

Mix the tincture with a little of the mixed flours; then add the essential oils and make into a paste; dry this until it can be reduced to a powder, and then mix all the ingredients by sifting several times through a fine hair sieve.

CUTLERY CEMENTS: See Adhesives.

CYLINDER OIL: See Lubricants.

CYMBAL METAL: See Alloys.

Damaskeening

Damaskeening, practiced from most ancient times, consists in ornamentally inlaying one metal with another, followed usually by polishing. Generally gold or silver is employed for inlaying. The article to be decorated by damaskeening is usually of iron (steel) or copper; in Oriental (especially Japanese) work, also frequently of bronze, which has been blackened, or, at least, darkened, so that the damaskeening is effectively set off from the ground. If the design consists of lines, the grooves are dug out with the graver in such a manner that they are wider at the bottom, so as to hold the metal forced in. Next, the gold or silver pieces suitably formed are laid on top and hammered in so as to fill up the opening. Finally the surface is gone over again, so that the surface of the inlay is perfectly even with the rest. If the inlays, however, are not in the form of lines, but are composed of larger pieces of certain outlines, they are sometimes allowed to project beyond the surface of the metal decorated. At times there are inlays again in the raised portions of another metal; thus, Japanese bronze articles often contain figures of raised gold inlaid with silver.

Owing to the high value which damaskeening imparts to articles artistically decorated, many attempts have been made to obtain similar effects in a cheaper manner. One is electro-etching, described further on. Another process for the wholesale manufacture of objects closely resembling damaskeened work is the following: By means of a steel punch, on which the decorations to be produced project in relief, the designs are stamped by means of a drop hammer or a stamping press into gold plated or silver plated sheet metal on the side which is to show the damaskeening, finally grinding off the surface, so that the sunken portions are again level. Naturally, the stamped portion, as long as the depth of the stamping is at least equal to the thickness of the precious metal on top, will appear inlaid.

It is believed that much of the early damaskeening was done by welding together iron and either a steel or an impure or alloyed iron, and treating the surface with a corroding acid that affected the steel or alloy without changing the iron.

The variety or damaskeening known as koftgari or kuft-work, practiced in India, was produced by rough-etching a metallic surface and laying on gold-leaf, which was imbedded so that it adhered only to the etched parts of the design.

Damaskeening By Electrolysis.

—Damaskeening of metallic plates may be done by electrolysis. A copper plate is covered with an isolating layer of feeble thickness, such as wax, and the desired design is scratched in it by the use of a pointed tool. The plate is suspended in a bath of sulphate of copper, connecting it with the positive pole of a battery, while a second copper plate is connected with the negative pole. The current etches grooves wherever the wax has been removed. When enough has {250} been eaten away, remove the plate from the bath, cleanse it with a little hydrochloric acid to remove any traces of oxide of copper which might appear on the lines of the design; then wash it in plenty of water and place it in a bath of silver or nickel, connecting it now with the negative pole, the positive pole being represented by a leaf of platinum. After a certain time the hollows are completely filled with a deposit of silver or nickel, and it only remains to polish the plate, which has the appearance of a piece damaskeened by hand.

Damaskeening On Enamel Dials.

—Dip the dial into molten yellow wax, trace on the dial the designs desired, penetrating down to the enamel. Dip the dial in a fluorhydric acid a sufficient length of time that it may eat to the desired depth. Next, wash in several waters, remove the wax by means of turpentine, i. e., leave the piece covered with wax immersed in essence of turpentine. By filling up the hollows thus obtained with enamel very pretty effects are produced.

DANDRUFF CURE: See Hair Preparations.

Decalcomania Processes:

See also Chromos, Copying Processes, and Transfer Processes.

The decalcomania process of transferring pictures requires that the print (usually in colors) be made on a specially prepared paper. Prints made on decalcomania paper may be transferred in the reverse to china ware, wood, celluloid, metal, or any hard smooth surface, and being varnished after transfer (or burnt in, in the case of pottery) acquire a fair degree of permanence. The original print is destroyed by the transfer.

Applying Decalcomania Pictures On Ceramic Products Under A Glaze.

—A biscuit-baked object is first coated with a mixture of alcohol, shellac, varnish, and liquid glue. Then the prepared picture print is transferred on to this adhesive layer in the customary manner. The glaze, however, does not adhere to this coating and would, therefore, not cover the picture when fused on. To attain this, the layer bearing the transfer picture, as well as the latter, are simultaneously coated with a dextrin solution of about 10 per cent. When this dextrin coating is dry, the picture is glazed. The mixing proportions of the two solutions employed, as well as of the adhesive and the dextrin solutions, vary somewhat according to the physical conditions of the porcelain, its porosity, etc. The following may serve for an example: Dissolve 5 parts of shellac or equivalent gum in 25 parts of spirit and emulsify this liquid with 20 parts of varnish and 8 parts of liquid glue. After drying, the glaze is put on and the ware thus prepared is placed in the grate fire.

The process described is especially adapted for film pictures, i. e., for such as bear the picture on a cohering layer, usually consisting of collodion. It cannot be employed outright for gum pictures, i. e., for such pictures as are composed of different pressed surfaces, consisting mainly of gum or similar material. If this process is to be adapted to these pictures as well, the ware, which has been given the biscuit baking, is first provided with a crude glaze coating, whereupon the details of the process are carried out as described above with the exception that there is another glaze coating between the adhesive coat and the biscuit-baked ware. In this case the article is also immediately placed in the grate fire. It is immaterial which of the two kinds of metachromatypes (transfer pictures) is used, in every case the baking in the muffle, etc., is dropped. The transfer pictures may also be produced in all colors for the grate fire.

Decalcomania Paper.

—Smooth unsized paper, not too thick, is coated with the following solutions:

I.—Gelatin, 10 parts, dissolved in 300 parts warm water. This solution is applied with a sponge. The paper should be dried flat.

II.—Starch, 50 parts; gum tragacanth, dissolved in 600 parts of water. (The gum tragacanth is soaked in 300 parts of water; in the other 300 parts the starch is boiled to a paste; the two are then poured together and boiled.) The dried paper is brushed with this paste uniformly, a fairly thick coat being applied. The paper is then allowed to dry again.

III.—One part blood albumen is soaked in 3 parts water for 24 hours. A small quantity of sal ammoniac is added.

The paper, after having been coated with these three solutions and dried, is run through the printing press, the pictures, however, being printed reversed so that it may appear in its true position when transferred. Any colored inks may be used. {251}

IV.—A transfer paper, known as “décalque rapide,” invented by J. B. Duramy, consists of a paper of the kind generally used for making pottery transfers, but coated with a mixture of gum and arrowroot solutions in the proportion of 2 / 2 parts of the latter to 100 of the former. The coating is applied in the ordinary manner, but the paper is only semi-glazed. Furthermore, to decorate pottery ware by means of this new transfer paper, there is no need to immerse the ware in a bath in order to get the paper to draw off, as it will come away when moistened with a damp sponge, after having been in position for less than 5 minutes, whereas the ordinary papers require a much longer time.

Picture Transferrer.

—A very weak solution of soft soap and pearlashes is used to transfer recent prints, such as illustrations from papers, magazines, etc., to unglazed paper, on the decalcomania principle. Such a solution is:

I.— Soft soap / 2 ounce

Pearlash 2 drachms

Distilled water 16 fluidounces

The print is laid upon a flat surface, such as a drawing board, and moistened with the liquid. The paper on which the reproduction is required is laid over this, and then a sheet of thicker paper placed on the top, and the whole rubbed evenly and hard with a blunt instrument, such as the bowl of a spoon, until the desired depth of color in the transferrer is obtained. Another and more artistic process is to cover the print with a transparent sheet of material coated with wax, to trace out the pictures with a point and to take rubbings of the same after powdering with plumbago.

II.— Hard soap 1 drachm

Glycerine 30 grains

Alcohol 4 fluidrachms

Water 1 fluidounce

Dampen the printed matter with the solution by sponging, and proceed as with I.

DEHORNERS: See Horn.

DELTA METAL: See Alloys.

DEMON BOWLS OF FIRE: See Pyrotechnics.

DENTAL CEMENTS: See Cements.

Dentifrices

Tooth Powders:

A perfect tooth powder that will clean the teeth and mouth with thoroughness need contain but few ingredients and is easily made. For the base there is nothing better than precipitated chalk; it possesses all the detergent and polishing properties necessary for the thorough cleansing of the teeth, and it is too soft to do any injury to soft or to defective or thinly enameled teeth. This cannot be said of pumice, cuttlebone, charcoal, kieselguhr, and similar abradants that are used in tooth powders. Their use is reprehensible in a tooth powder. The use of pumice or other active abradant is well enough occasionally, by persons afflicted with a growth of tartar on the teeth, but even then it is best applied by a competent dentist. Abrading powders have much to answer for in hastening the day of the toothless race.

Next in value comes soap. Powdered white castile soap is usually an ingredient of tooth powders. There is nothing so effective for removing sordes or thickened mucus from the gums or mouth. But used alone or in too large proportions, the taste is unpleasant. Orris possesses no cleansing properties, but is used for its flavor and because it is most effective for masking the taste of the soap. Sugar or saccharine may be used for sweetening, and for flavoring almost anything can be used. Flavors should, in the main, be used singly, though mixed flavors lack the clean taste of simple flavors.

The most popular tooth powder sold is the white, saponaceous, wintergreen-flavored powder, and here is a formula for this type:

I.— Precipitated chalk 1 pound

White castile soap 1 ounce

Florentine orris 2 ounces

Sugar (or saccharine, 2 grains) 1 ounce

Oil of wintergreen / 4 ounce

The first four ingredients should be in the finest possible powder and well dried. Triturate the oil of wintergreen with part of the chalk, and mix this with the balance of the chalk. Sift each ingredient separately through a sieve (No. 80 or finer), and mix well together, afterwards sifting the mixture 5 or 6 times. The finer the sieve and the more the mixture is sifted, the finer and lighter the powder will be. {252}

This powder will cost about 15 cents a pound.

Pink, rose-flavored powder of the Caswell and Hazard, Hudnut, or McMahan type, once so popular in New York. It was made in two styles, with and without soap.

II.— Precipitated chalk 1 pound

Florentine orris 2 ounces

Sugar 1 / 2 ounces

White castile soap 1 ounce

No. 40 carmine 15 grains

Oil of rose 12 drops

Oil of cloves 4 drops

Dissolve the carmine in an ounce of water of ammonia and triturate this with part of the chalk until the chalk is uniformly dyed. Then spread it in a thin layer on a sheet of paper and allow the ammonia to evaporate. When there is no ammoniacal odor left, mix this dyed chalk with the rest of the chalk and sift the whole several times until thoroughly mixed. Then proceed to make up the powder as in the previous formula, first sifting each ingredient separately and then together, being careful thoroughly to triturate the oils of rose and cloves with the orris after it is sifted and before it is added to the other powders. The oil of cloves is used to back up the oil of rose. It strengthens and accentuates the rose odor. Be careful not to get a drop too much, or it will predominate over the rose.

Violet Tooth Powder.—

Precipitated chalk 1 pound

Florentine orris 4 ounces

Castile soap 1 ounce

Sugar 1 / 2 ounces

Extract of violet / 4 ounce

Evergreen coloring, R. & F., quantity sufficient.

Proceed as in the second formula, dyeing the chalk with the evergreen coloring to the desired shade before mixing.

III.— Precipitated chalk 16 pounds

Powdered orris 4 pounds

Powdered cuttlefish bone 2 pounds

Ultramarine 9 / 2 ounces

Geranium lake 340 grains

Jasmine 110 minims

Oil of neroli 110 minims

Oil of bitter almonds 35 minims

Vanillin 50 grains

Artificial musk (Lautier’s) 60 grains

Saccharine 140 grains

Rub up the perfumes with 2 ounces of alcohol, dissolve the saccharine in warm water, add all to the orris, and set aside to dry. Rub the colors up with water and some chalk, and when dry pass all through a mixer and sifter twice to bring out the color.

Camphorated And Carbolated Powders.

—A camphorated tooth powder may be made by leaving out the oil of wintergreen in the first formula and adding 1 / 2 ounces of powdered camphor.

Carbolated tooth powder may likewise be made with the first formula by substituting 2 drachms of liquefied carbolic acid for the oil of wintergreen. But the tooth powder gradually loses the odor and taste of the acid. It is not of much utility anyway, as the castile soap in the powder is of far greater antiseptic power than the small amount of carbolic acid that can safely be combined in a tooth powder. Soap is one of the best antiseptics.

Alkaline salts, borax, sodium bicarbonate, etc., are superfluous in a powder already containing soap. The only useful purpose they might serve is to correct acidity of the mouth, and that end can be reached much better by rinsing the mouth with a solution of sodium bicarbonate. Acids have no place in tooth powders, the French Codex to the contrary notwithstanding.

Peppermint As A Flavor.

—In France and all over Europe peppermint is the popular flavor, as wintergreen is in this country.

English apothecaries use sugar of milk and heavy calcined magnesia in many of their tooth powders. Neither has any particular virtue as a tooth cleanser, but both are harmless. Cane sugar is preferable to milk sugar as a sweetener, and saccharine is more efficient, though objected to by some; it should be used in the proportion of 2 to 5 grains to the pound of powder, and great care taken to have it thoroughly distributed throughout.

An antiseptic tooth powder, containing the antiseptic ingredients of listerine, is popular in some localities.

IV.— Precipitated chalk 1 pound

Castile soap 5 drachms

Borax 3 drachms

Thymol 20 grains

Menthol 20 grains

Eucalyptol 20 grains

Oil of wintergreen 20 grains

Alcohol / 2 ounce

Dissolve the thymol and oils in the alcohol, and triturate with the chalk, and proceed as in the first formula. {253}

One fault with this powder is the disagreeable taste of the thymol. This may be omitted and the oil of wintergreen increased to the improvement of the taste, but with some loss of antiseptic power.

Antiseptic Powder.—

V.— Boric acid 50 parts

Salicylic acid 50 parts

Dragon’s blood 20 parts

Calcium carbonate 1,000 parts

Essence spearmint 12 parts

Reduce the dragon’s blood and calcium carbonate to the finest powder, and mix the ingredients thoroughly. The powder should be used twice a day, or even oftener, in bad cases. It is especially recommended in cases where the enamel has become eroded from the effects of iron.

Menthol Tooth Powder.

—Menthol leaves a cool and pleasant sensation in the mouth, and is excellent for fetid breath. It may be added to most formulas by taking an equal quantity of oil of wintergreen and dissolving in alcohol.

Menthol 1 part

Salol 8 parts

Soap, grated fine 20 parts

Calcium carbonate 20 parts

Magnesia carbonate 60 parts

Essential oil of mint 2 parts

Powder finely and mix. If there is much tartar on the teeth it will be well to add to this formula from 10 to 20 parts of pumice, powdered very finely.

Tooth Powders And Pastes.

—Although the direct object of these is to keep the teeth clean and white, they also prevent decay, if it is only by force of mere cleanliness, and in this way (and also by removing decomposing particles of food) tend to keep the breath sweet and wholesome. The necessary properties of a tooth powder are cleansing power unaccompanied by any abrading or chemical action on the teeth themselves, a certain amount of antiseptic power to enable it to deal with particles of stale food, and a complete absence of any disagreeable taste or smell. These conditions are easy to realize in practice, and there is a very large number of efficient and good powders, as well as not a few which are apt to injure the teeth if care is not taken to rinse out the mouth very thoroughly after using. These powders include some of the best cleansers, and have hence been admitted in the following recipes, mostly taken from English collections.

I.—Charcoal and sugar, equal weights. Mix and flavor with clove oil.

II.— Charcoal 156 parts

Red kino 156 parts

Sugar 6 parts

Flavor with peppermint oil

III.— Charcoal 270 parts

Sulphate of quinine 1 part

Magnesia 1 part

Scent to liking.

IV.— Charcoal 30 parts

Cream of tartar 8 parts

Yellow cinchona bark 4 parts

Sugar 15 parts

Scent with oil of cloves.

V.— Sugar 120 parts

Alum 10 parts

Cream of tartar 20 parts

Cochineal 3 parts

VI.— Cream of tartar 1,000 parts

Alum 190 parts

Carbonate of magnesia 375 parts

Sugar 375 parts

Cochineal 75 parts

Essence Ceylon cinnamon 90 parts

Essence cloves 75 parts

Essence English peppermint 45 parts

VII.— Sugar 200 parts

Cream of tartar 400 parts

Magnesia 400 parts

Starch 400 parts

Cinnamon 32 parts

Mace 11 parts

Sulphate of quinine 16 parts

Carmine 17 parts

Scent with oil of peppermint and oil of rose.

VIII.— Bleaching powder 11 parts

Red coral 12 parts

IX.— Red cinchona bark 12 parts

Magnesia 50 parts

Cochineal 9 parts

Alum 6 parts

Cream of tartar 100 parts

English peppermint oil 4 parts

Cinnamon oil 2 parts

Grind the first five ingredients separately, then mix the alum with the cochineal, and then add to it the cream of tartar and the bark. In the meantime the magnesia is mixed with the essential oils, and finally the whole mass is mixed through a very fine silk sieve.

X.— Whitewood charcoal 250 parts

Cinchona bark 125 parts

Sugar 250 parts

Peppermint oil 12 parts

Cinnamon oil 8 parts

XI.— Precipitated chalk 750 parts

Cream of tartar 250 parts

Florence orris root 250 parts

Sal ammoniac 60 parts

Ambergris 4 parts

Cinnamon 4 parts

Coriander 4 parts

Cloves 4 parts

Rosewood 4 parts

XII.— Dragon’s blood 250 parts

Cream of tartar 30 parts

Florence orris root 30 parts

Cinnamon 16 parts

Cloves 8 parts

XIII.— Precipitated chalk 500 parts

Dragon’s blood 250 parts

Red sandalwood 125 parts

Alum 125 parts

Orris root 250 parts

Cloves 15 parts

Cinnamon 15 parts

Vanilla 8 parts

Rosewood 15 parts

Carmine lake 250 parts

Carmine 8 parts

XIV.— Cream of tartar 150 parts

Alum 25 parts

Cochineal 12 parts

Cloves 25 parts

Cinnamon 25 parts

Rosewood 6 parts

Scent with essence of rose.

XV.— Coral 20 parts

Sugar 20 parts

Wood charcoal 6 parts

Essence of vervain 1 part

XVI.— Precipitated chalk 500 parts

Orris root 500 parts

Carmine 1 part

Sugar 1 part

Essence of rose 4 parts

Essence of neroli 4 parts

XVII.— Cinchona bark 50 parts

Chalk 100 parts

Myrrh 50 parts

Orris root 100 parts

Cinnamon 50 parts

Carbonate of ammonia 100 parts

Oil of cloves. 2 parts

XVIII.— Gum arabic 30 parts

Cutch 80 parts

Licorice juice 550 parts

Cascarilla 20 parts

Mastic 20 parts

Orris root 20 parts

Oil of cloves 5 parts

Oil of peppermint 15 parts

Extract of amber 5 parts

Extract of musk 5 parts

XIX.— Chalk 200 parts

Cuttlebone 100 parts

Orris root 100 parts

Bergamot oil 2 parts

Lemon oil 4 parts

Neroli oil 1 part

Portugal oil 2 parts

XX.— Borax 50 parts

Chalk 100 parts

Myrrh 25 parts

Orris root 22 parts

Cinnamon 25 parts

XXI.— Wood charcoal 30 parts

White honey 30 parts

Vanilla sugar 30 parts

Cinchona bark 16 parts

Flavor with oil of peppermint.

XXII.— Syrup of 33° B. 38 parts

Cuttlebone 200 parts

Carmine lake 30 parts

English oil of peppermint 5 parts

XXIII.— Red coral 50 parts

Cinnamon 12 parts

Cochineal 6 parts

Alum 2 / 8 parts

Honey 125 parts

Water 6 parts

Triturate the cochineal and the alum with the water. Then, after allowing them to stand for 24 hours, put in the honey, the coral, and the cinnamon. When the effervescence has ceased, which happens in about 48 hours, flavor with essential oils to taste.

XXIV.— Well-skimmed honey 50 parts

Syrup of peppermint 50 parts

Orris root 12 parts

Sal ammoniac 12 parts

Cream of tartar 12 parts

Tincture of cinnamon 3 parts

Tincture of cloves 3 parts

Tincture of vanilla 3 parts

Oil of cloves 1 part

XXV.— Cream of tartar 120 parts

Pumice 120 parts

Alum 30 parts

Cochineal 30 parts

Bergamot oil 3 parts

Clove 3 parts

Make to a thick paste with honey or sugar.

XXVI.— Honey 250 parts

Precipitated chalk 250 parts

Orris root 250 parts

Tincture of opium 7 parts

Tincture of myrrh 7 parts

Oil of rose 2 parts

Oil of cloves 2 parts

Oil of nutmeg 2 parts

XXVII.— Florentine orris 6 parts

Magnesium carbonate 2 parts

Almond soap 12 parts

Calcium carbonate 60 parts

Thymol 1 part

Alcohol, quantity sufficient.

Powder the solids and mix. Dissolve the thymol in as little alcohol as possible, and add perfume in a mixture in equal parts of oil of peppermint, oil of clove, oil of lemon, and oil of eucalyptus. About 1 minim of each to every ounce of powder will be sufficient.

XXVIII.—Myrrh, 10 parts; sodium chloride, 10 parts; soot, 5 parts; soap, 5 parts; lime carbonate, 500 parts.

XXIX.—Camphor, 5 parts; soap, 10 parts; saccharine, 0.25 parts; thymol, 0.5 parts; lime carbonate, 500 parts. Scent, as desired, with rose oil, sassafras oil, wintergreen oil, or peppermint oil.

XXX.—Powdered camphor, 6 parts; myrrh, 15 parts; powdered Peruvian bark, 6 parts; distilled water, 12 parts; alcohol of 80° F., 50 parts. Macerate the powders in the alcohol for a week and then filter.

XXXI.—Soap, 1; saccharine. 0.025; thymol, 0.05; lime carbonate, 50; sassafras essence, enough to perfume.

XXXII.—Camphor, 0.5; soap, 1; saccharine, 0.025; calcium carbonate, 50; oil of sassafras, or cassia, or of gaultheria, enough to perfume.

XXXIII.—Myrrh, 1; sodium chloride, 1; soap, 50; lime carbonate, 50; rose oil as required.

XXXIV.—Precipitated calcium carbonate, 60 parts; quinine sulphate, 2 parts; saponine, 0.1 part; saccharine, 0.1 part; carmine as required; oil of peppermint, sufficient.

XXXV.—Boracic acid, 100 parts; powdered starch, 50 parts; quinine hydrochlorate, 10 parts; saccharine, 1 part; vanillin (dissolved in alcohol), 1.5 parts.

Neutral Tooth Powder.

—Potassium chlorate, 200 parts; starch, 200 parts; carmine lake, 40 parts; saccharine (in alcoholic solution), 1 part; vanillin (dissolved in alcohol), 1 part.

Tooth Powder For Children.—

Magnesia carbonate 10 parts

Medicinal soap 10 parts

Sepia powder 80 parts

Peppermint oil, quantity sufficient to flavor.

Flavorings For Dentifrice.—

I.— Sassafras oil, true 1 drachm

Pinus pumilio oil 20 minims

Bitter orange oil 20 minims

Wintergreen oil 2 minims

Anise oil 4 minims

Rose geranium oil 1 minim

Alcohol 1 ounce

Use according to taste.

II.— Oil of peppermint, English 4 parts

Oil of aniseed 6 parts

Oil of clove 1 part

Oil of cinnamon 1 part

Saffron 1 part

Deodorized alcohol 350 parts

Water 300 parts

Or, cassia, 4 parts, and vanilla, / 2 part, may be substituted for the saffron.

Liquid Dentifrices And Tooth Washes:

A French Dentifrice.

—I.—A preparation which has a reputation in France as a liquid dentifrice is composed of alcohol, 96 per cent, 1,000 parts; Mitcham peppermint oil, 30 parts; aniseed oil, 5 parts; oil of Acorus calamus, 0.5 parts. Finely powdered cochineal and cream of tartar, 5 parts each, are used to tint the solution. The mixed ingredients are set aside for 14 days before filtering.

Sozodont.—

II.—The liquid tooth preparation “Sozodont” is said to contain: Soap powder, 60 parts; glycerine, 60 parts; alcohol, 360 parts; water, 220 parts; oils of peppermint, of aniseed, of clover, and of cinnamon, 1 part each; oil of wintergreen, 1–200 part.

III.— Thymol 2 grains

Benzoic acid 24 grains

Tincture eucalyptus 2 drachms

Alcohol quantity sufficient to make 2 ounces.

Mix. Sig.: A teaspoonful diluted with half a wineglassful of water.

IV.— Carbolic acid, pure 2 ounces

Glycerine, 1,260° 1 ounce

Oil wintergreen 6 drachms

Oil cinnamon 3 drachms

Powdered cochineal / 2 drachm

S. V. R 40 ounces

Distilled water 40 ounces

Dissolve the acid in the glycerine with the aid of a gentle heat and the essential oils in the spirit; mix together, and add the water and cochineal; then let the preparation stand for a week and filter.

A mixture of caramel and cochineal coloring, N. F., gives an agreeable red color for saponaceous tooth washes. It is not permanent, however.

Variations of this formula follow:

V.— White castile soap 1 ounce

Tincture of asarum 2 drachms

Oil of peppermint / 2 drachm

Oil of wintergreen / 2 drachm

Oil of cloves 5 drops

Oil of cassia 5 drops

Glycerine 4 ounces

Alcohol 14 ounces

Water 14 ounces

VI.— White castile soap 1 / 2 ounces

Oil of orange 10 minims

Oil of cassia 5 minims

Oil of wintergreen 15 minims

Glycerine 3 ounces

Alcohol 8 ounces

Water enough to make 1 quart.

VII.— White castile soap 3 ounces

Glycerine 5 ounces

Water 20 ounces

Alcohol 30 ounces

Oil of peppermint 1 drachm

Oil of wintergreen 1 drachm

Oil of orange peel 1 drachm

Oil of anise 1 drachm

Oil of cassia 1 drachm

Beat up the soap with the glycerine; dissolve the oils in the alcohol and add to the soap and glycerine. Stir well until the soap is completely dissolved.

VIII.— White castile soap 1 ounce

Orris root 4 ounces

Rose leaves 4 ounces

Oil of rose / 2 drachm

Oil of neroli / 2 drachm

Cochineal / 2 ounce

Diluted alcohol 2 quarts

If the wash is intended simply as an elixir for sweetening the breath, the following preparation, resembling the celebrated eau de botot, will be found very desirable:

IX.— Oil of peppermint 30 minims

Oil of spearmint 15 minims

Oil of cloves 5 minims

Oil of red cedar wood 60 minims

Tincture of myrrh 1 ounce

Alcohol 1 pint

Care must be taken not to confound the oil of cedar tops with the oil of cedar wood. The former has an odor like turpentine; the latter has the fragrance of the red cedar wood.

For a cleansing wash, a solution of soap is to be recommended. It may be made after the following formula:

X.— White castile soap 1 ounce

Alcohol 6 ounces

Glycerine 4 ounces

Hot water 6 ounces

Oil of peppermint 15 minims

Oil of wintergreen 20 minims

Oil of cloves 5 minims

Extract of vanilla / 2 ounce

Dissolve the soap in the hot water and add the glycerine and extract of vanilla. Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, mix the solutions, and after 24 hours filter through paper. {257}

It is customary to color such preparations. An agreeable brown-yellow tint may be given by the addition of a small quantity of caramel. A red color may be given by cochineal. The color will fade, but will be found reasonably permanent when kept from strong light.

Tooth Soaps And Pastes:

Tooth Soaps.—

I.— White castile soap 225 parts

Precipitated chalk 225 parts

Orris root 225 parts

Oil of peppermint 7 parts

Oil of cloves 4 parts

Water, a sufficient quantity.

II.— Castile soap 100 drachms

Precipitated chalk 100 drachms

Powdered orris root 100 drachms

White sugar 50 drachms

Rose water 50 drachms

Oil of cloves 100 drops

Oil of peppermint 3 drachms

Dissolve the soap in water, add the rose water, then rub up with the sugar with which the oils have been previously triturated, the orris root and the precipitated chalk.

III.—Potassium chlorate, 20 drachms; powdered white soap, 10 drachms; precipitated chalk, 20 drachms; peppermint oil, 15 drops; clove oil, 5 drops; glycerine, sufficient to mass. Use with a soft brush.

Saponaceous Tooth Pastes.—

I.— Precipitated carbonate of lime 90 parts

Soap powder 30 parts

Ossa sepia, powdered 15 parts

Tincture of cocaine 45 parts

Oil of peppermint 6 parts

Oil of ylang-ylang 0.3 parts

Glycerine 30 parts

Rose water to cause liquefaction. Carmine solution to color.

II.— Precipitated carbonate of lime 150 parts

Soap powder 45 parts

Arrowroot 45 parts

Oil of eucalyptus 2 parts

Oil of peppermint 1 part

Oil of geranium 1 part

Oil of cloves 0.25 parts

Oil of aniseed 0.25 parts

Glycerine 45 parts

Chloroform water to cause liquefaction. Carmine solution to color.

Cherry Tooth Paste.—

III.— Clarified honey 100 drachms

Precipitated chalk 100 drachms

Powdered orris root 100 drachms

Powdered rose leaves 60 drops

Oil of cloves 55 drops

Oil of mace 55 drops

Oil of geranium 55 drops

Chinese Tooth Paste.—

IV.— Powdered pumice 100 drachms

Starch 20 drachms

Oil of peppermint 40 drops

Carmine / 4 drachm

Eucalyptus Paste.—Forty drachms precipitated chalk, 11 drachms soap powder, 11 drachms wheaten starch, / 4 drachm carmine, 30 drops oil of peppermint, 30 drops oil of geranium, 60 drops eucalyptus oil, 2 drops oil of cloves, 12 drops oil of anise mixed together and incorporated to a paste, with a mixture of equal parts of glycerine and spirit.

Myrrh Tooth Paste.—

Precipitated chalk 8 ounces

Orris 8 ounces

White castile soap 2 ounces

Borax 2 ounces

Myrrh 1 ounce

Glycerine, quantity sufficient.

Color and perfume to suit.

A thousand grams of levigated powdered oyster shells are rubbed up with 12 drachms of cochineal to a homogeneous powder. To this is added 1 drachm of potassium permanganate and 1 drachm boric acid and rubbed well up. Foam up 200 drachms castile soap and 5 drachms chemically pure glycerine and mix it with the foregoing mass, adding by teaspoonful 150 grams of boiling strained honey. The whole mass is again thoroughly rubbed up, adding while doing so 200 drops honey. Finally the mass should be put into a mortar and pounded for an hour and then kneaded with the hands for 2 hours.

Tooth Paste to be put in Collapsible Tubes.—

Calcium carbonate, levigated 100 parts

Cuttlefish bone, in fine powder 25 parts

Castile soap, old white, powdered 25 parts

Tincture of carmine, ammoniated 4 parts

Simple syrup 25 parts

Menthol 2 parts

Alcohol 5 parts

Attar of rose or other perfume, quantity sufficient.

Rose water sufficient to make a paste.

Beat the soap with a little rose water, then warm until softened, add syrup and tincture of carmine. Dissolve the perfume and menthol in the alcohol and add to soap mixture. Add the solids and incorporate thoroughly. Finally, work to a proper consistency for filling into collapsible tubes, adding water, if necessary.

Mouth Washes.

I.— Quillaia bark 125 parts

Glycerine 95 parts

Alcohol 155 parts

Macerate for 4 days and add:

Acid. carbol. cryst 4 parts

Ol. geranii 0.6 parts

Ol. caryophyll 0.6 parts

Ol. rosæ 0.6 parts

Ol. cinnam 0.6 parts

Tinct. ratanhæ 45 parts

Aqua rosæ 900 parts

Macerate again for 4 days and filter.

Thymol 20 parts

Peppermint oil 10 parts

Clove oil 5 parts

Sage oil 5 parts

Marjoram oil 3 parts

Sassafras oil 3 parts

Wintergreen oil 0.5 parts

Coumarin 0.5 parts

Alcohol, dil. 1,000 parts

A teaspoonful in a glass of water.

II.— Tincture orris (1 in 4) 1 / 2 parts

Lavender water / 2 part

Tinct. cinnamon (1 in 8) 1 part

Tinct. yellow cinch bark 1 part

Eau de cologne 2 parts

Orris and Rose.—

III.— Orris root 30 drachms

Rose leaves 8 drachms

Soap bark 8 drachms

Cochineal 3 / 2 drachms

Diluted alcohol 475 drachms

Oil rose 30 drops

Oil neroli 40 drops

Myrrh Astringent.—

IV.— Tincture myrrh 125 drachms

Tincture benzoin 50 drachms

Tincture cinchona 8 drachms

Alcohol 225 drachms

Oil of rose 30 drops

Borotonic.—

V.— Acid boric 20 parts

Oil wintergreen 10 parts

Glycerine 110 parts

Alcohol 150 parts

Distilled water enough to make 600 parts

Sweet Salicyl.—

VI.— Acid salicylic 4 parts

Saccharine 1 part

Sodium bicarbonate 1 part

Alcohol 200 parts

Foaming Orange.—

VII.— Castile soap 29 drachms

Oil orange 10 drops

Oil cinnamon 5 drops

Distilled water 30 drachms

Alcohol 90 drachms

Australian Mint.—

VIII.— Thymol 0.25 parts

Acid benzoic 3 parts

Tincture eucalyptus 15 parts

Alcohol 100 parts

Oil peppermint 0.75 parts

Fragrant Dentine.—

IX.— Soap bark 125 parts

Glycerine 95 parts

Alcohol 155 parts

Rose water 450 parts

Macerate for 4 days and add:

Carbolic acid, cryst 4 parts

Oil geranium 0.6 parts

Oil cloves 0.6 parts

Oil rose 0.6 parts

Oil cinnamon 0.6 parts

Tincture rhatany 45 parts

Rose water 450 parts

Allow to stand 4 days; then filter.

Aromantiseptic.—

X.— Thymol 20 parts

Oil peppermint 10 parts

Oil cloves 5 parts

Oil sage 5 parts

Oil marjoram 3 parts

Oil sassafras 3 parts

Oil wintergreen 0.5 parts

Coumarin 0.5 parts

Diluted alcohol 1,000 parts

The products of the foregoing formulas are used in the proportion of 1 teaspoonful in a half glassful of water.

Foaming.—

XI.— Soap bark, powder 2 ounces

Cochineal powder 60 grains

Glycerine 3 ounces

Alcohol 10 ounces

Water sufficient to make 32 ounces

Mix the soap, cochineal, glycerine alcohol, and water together; let macerate for several days; filter and flavor; if same produces turbidity, shake up the mixture with magnesium carbonate, and filter through paper.

Odonter.—

XII.— Soap bark, powder 2 ounces

Cudbear, powder 4 drachms

Glycerine 4 ounces

Alcohol 14 ounces

Water sufficient to make 32 ounces

Mix, and let macerate with frequent agitation, for several days; filter; add flavor; if necessary filter again through magnesium carbonate or paper pulp.

Sweet Anise.—

XIII.— Soap bark 2 ounces

Aniseed 4 drachms

Cloves 4 drachms

Cinnamon 4 drachms

Cochineal 60 grains

Vanilla 60 grains

Oil of peppermint 1 drachm

Alcohol 16 ounces

Water sufficient to make 32 ounces

Reduce the drugs to coarse powder, dissolve the oil of peppermint in the alcohol, add equal parts of water, and macerate therein the powders for 5 to 6 days, with frequent agitation; place in percolator and percolate until 32 fluidounces have been obtained. Let stand for a week and filter through paper; if necessary to make it perfectly bright and clear, shake up with some magnesia, and again filter.

Saponaceous.—

XIV.— White castile soap 2 ounces

Glycerine 2 ounces

Alcohol 8 ounces

Water 4 ounces

Oil peppermint 20 drops

Oil wintergreen 30 drops

Solution of carmine N. F. sufficient to color.

Dissolve the soap in the alcohol and water, add the other ingredients, and filter.

XV.— Crystallized carbolic acid 4 parts

Eucalyptol 1 part

Salol 2 parts

Menthol 0.25 parts

Thymol 0.1 part

Alcohol 100 parts

Dye with cochineal (1 / 2 per cent).

Jackson’s Mouth Wash.

—Fresh lemon peel, 10 parts; fresh sweet orange peel, 10 parts; angelica root, 10 parts; guaiacum wood, 30 parts; balsam of Tolu, 12 parts; benzoin, 12 parts; Peruvian balsam, 4 parts; myrrh, 3 parts; alcohol (90 per cent), 500 parts.

Tablets For Antiseptic Mouth Wash.

—Heliotropine, 0.01 part; saccharine, 0.01 part; salicylic acid, 0.01 part; menthol, 1 part; milk sugar, 5 parts. These tablets may be dyed green, red, or blue, with chlorophyll, eosine, and indigo carmine, respectively.

Depilatories

Depilatory Cream.

—The depilatory cream largely used in New York hospitals for the removal of hair from the skin previous to operations:

I.— Barium sulphide 3 parts

Starch 1 part

Water, sufficient quantity.

The mixed powders are to be made into a paste with water, and applied in a moderately thick layer to the parts to be denuded of hair, the excess of the latter having been previously trimmed off with a pair of scissors. From time to time a small part of the surface should be examined, and when it is seen that the hair can be removed, the mass should be washed off. The barium sulphide should be quite fresh. It can be prepared by making barium sulphate and its own weight of charcoal into a paste with linseed oil, rolling the paste into the shape of a sausage, and placing it upon a bright fire to incinerate. When it has ceased to burn, and is a white hot mass, remove from the fire, cool, and powder.

The formula is given with some reserve, for preparations of this kind are usually unsafe unless used with great care. It should be removed promptly when the skin begins to burn.

II.— Barium sulphide 25 parts

Soap 5 parts

Talc 35 parts

Starch 35 parts

Benzaldehyde sufficient to make 120 parts

Powder the solids and mix. To use, to a part of this mixture add 3 parts of water, at the time of its application, and with a camel’s-hair pencil paint the mixture evenly over the spot to be freed of hair. Let remain in contact with the {260} skin for 5 minutes, then wash off with a sponge, and in the course of 5 minutes longer the hair will come off on slight friction with the sponge.

Strontium sulphide is an efficient depilatory. A convenient form of applying it is as follows:

III.— Strontium sulphide 2 parts

Zinc oxide 3 parts

Powdered starch 3 parts

Mix well and keep in the dry state until wanted for use, taking then a sufficient quantity, forming into a paste with warm water and applying to the surface to be deprived of hair. Allow to remain from 1 to 5 minutes, according to the nature of the hair and skin; it is not advisable to continue the application longer than the last named period. Remove in all cases at once when any caustic action is felt. After the removal of the paste, scrape the skin gently but firmly with a blunt-edged blade (a paper knife, for instance) until the loosened hair is removed. Then immediately wash the denuded surface well with warm water, and apply cold cream or some similar emollient as a dressing.

By weight

IV.— Alcohol 12 parts

Collodion 35 parts

Iodine 0.75 parts

Essence of turpentine 1.5 parts

Castor oil 2 parts

Apply with a brush on the affected parts for 3 or 4 days in thick coats. When the collodion plaster thus formed is pulled off, the hairs adhere to its inner surface.

V.—Rosin sticks are intended for the removal of hairs and are made from colophony with an admixture of 10 per cent of yellow wax. The sticks are heated like a stick of sealing wax until soft or semi-liquid (142° F.), and lightly applied on the place from which the hair is to be removed, and the mass is allowed to cool. These rosin sticks are said to give good satisfaction.

DEPTHINGS, VERIFICATION OF: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

DESILVERING: See Plating.

DETERGENTS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

DEVELOPERS FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC PURPOSES: See Photography.

DEXTRIN PASTES AND MUCILAGES: See Adhesives.

DIAL CEMENTS: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

DIAL CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

DIAL REPAIRING: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

DIAMALT: See Milk.

Diamond Tests:

See also Gems and Jewelers’ Formulas.

To Distinguish Genuine Diamonds.—If characters or marks of any kind are drawn with an aluminum pencil on glass, porcelain, or any substance containing silex, the marks cannot be erased by rubbing, however energetic the friction, and even acids will not cause them to disappear entirely, unless the surface is entirely freed from greasy matter, which can be accomplished by rubbing with whiting and passing a moistened cloth over the surface at the time of writing. So, in order to distinguish the true diamond from the false, it is necessary only to wipe the stone carefully and trace a line on it with an aluminum pencil, and then rub it briskly with a moistened cloth. If the line continues visible, the stone is surely false. If, on the contrary, the stone is a true diamond, the line will disappear without leaving a trace, and without injury to the stone.

The common test for recognizing the diamond is the file, which does not cut it, though it readily attacks imitations. There are other stones not affected by the file, but they have characteristics of color and other effects by which they are readily distinguished.

This test should be confirmed by others. From the following the reader can select the most convenient:

A piece of glass on which the edge of a diamond is drawn, will be cut without much pressure; a slight blow is sufficient to separate the glass. An imitation may scratch the glass, but this will not be cut as with the diamond. {261}

If a small drop of water is placed upon the face of a diamond and moved about by means of the point of a pin, it will preserve its globular form, provided the stone is clean and dry. If the attempt is made on glass, the drop will spread.

A diamond immersed in a glass of water will be distinctly visible, and will shine clearly through the liquid. The imitation stone will be confounded with the water and will be nearly invisible.

By looking through a diamond with a glass at a black point on a sheet of white paper, a single distinct point will be seen. Several points, or a foggy point will appear if the stone is spurious.

Hydrofluoric acid dissolves all imitations, but has no effect on true diamonds. This acid is kept in gutta-percha bottles.

For an eye practiced in comparisons it is not difficult to discern that the facets in the cut of a true diamond are not as regular as are those of the imitation; for in cutting and polishing the real stone an effort is made to preserve the original as much as possible, preferring some slight irregularities in the planes and edges to the loss in the weight, for we all know that diamonds are sold by weight. In an imitation, however, whether of paste or another less valuable stone, there is always an abundance of cheap material which may be cut away and thereby form a perfect-appearing stone.

Take a piece of a fabric, striped red and white, and draw the stone to be tested over the colors. If it is an imitation, the colors will be seen through it, while a diamond will not allow them to be seen.

A genuine diamond, rubbed on wood or metal, after having been previously exposed to the light of the electric arc, becomes phosphorescent in darkness, which does not occur with imitations.

Heat the stone to be tested, after giving it a coating of borax, and let it fall into cold water. A diamond will undergo the test without the slightest damage; the glass will be broken in pieces.

Finally, try with the fingers to crush an imitation and a genuine diamond between two coins, and you will soon see the difference.

DIAMOND CEMENT: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

DIARRHEA IN BIRDS: See Veterinary Formulas.

DIARRHEA REMEDIES: See Cholera Remedies.

Die Venting.

—Many pressmen have spent hours and days in the endeavor to produce sharp and full impressions on figured patterns. If all the deep recesses in deep-figured dies are vented to allow the air to escape when the blow is struck, it will do much to obtain perfect impressions, and requires only half the force that is necessary in unvented dies. This is not known in many shops and consequently this little air costs much in power and worry.

Digestive Powders and Tablets.

I.— Sodium bicarbonate 93 parts

Sodium chlorate 4 parts

Calcium carbonate 3 parts

Pepsin 5 parts

Ammonium carbonate 1 part

II.— Sodium bicarbonate 120 parts

Sodium chlorate 5 parts

Sal physiologic (see below) 4 parts

Magnesium carbonate 10 parts

III.— Pepsin, saccharated (U. S. P.) 10 drachms

Pancreatin 10 drachms

Diastase 50 drachms

Acid, lactic 40 drops

Sugar of milk 40 drachms

IV.— Pancreatin 3 parts

Sodium bicarbonate 15 parts

Milk sugar 2 parts

Sal Physiologicum.

—The formula for this ingredient, the so-called nutritive salt (Nahrsalz), is as follows:

Calcium phosphate 40 parts

Potassium sulphate 2 parts

Sodium phosphate 20 parts

Sulphuric, precipitated 5 parts

Sodium chlorate 60 parts

Magnesium phosphate 5 parts

Carlsbad salts, artificial 60 parts

Silicic acid 10 parts

Calcium fluoride 2 / 2 parts

Digestive Tablets.—

Powdered double refined sugar 300 parts

Subnitrate bismuth 60 parts

Saccharated pepsin 45 parts

Pancreatin 45 parts

Mucilage 35 parts

Ginger 30 parts

Mix and divide into suitable sizes. {262}

DIOGEN DEVELOPER: See Photography.

DIP FOR BRASS: See Plating and Brass.

DIPS: See Metals.

DIPS FOR CATTLE: See Disinfectants and Veterinary Formulas.

DISH WASHING: See Household Formulas

Disinfectants

Disinfecting Fluids.—

I.— Creosote 40 gallons

Rosin, powdered 56 pounds

Caustic soda lye, 38° Tw 9 gallons

Boiling water 12 gallons

Methylated spirit 1 gallon

Black treacle 14 pounds

Melt the rosin and add the creosote; run in the lyes; then add the matter and methylated spirit mixed together, and add the treacle; boil all till dissolved and mix well together.

II.— Hot water 120 pounds

Caustic soda lye, 38° B 120 pounds

Rosin 300 pounds

Creosote 450 pounds

Boil together the water, lye, and rosin, till dissolved; turn off steam and stir in the creosote; keep on steam to nearly boiling all the time, but so as not to boil over, until thoroughly incorporated.

III.— Fresh-made soap (hard yellow) 7 pounds

Gas tar 21 pounds

Water, with 2 pounds soda 21 pounds

Dissolve soap (cut in fine shavings) in the gas tar; then add slowly the soda and water which has been dissolved.

IV.— Rosin 1 cwt.

Caustic soda lye, 18° B 16 gallons

Black tar oil / 2 gallon

Nitro-naphthalene dissolved in boiling water (about / 2 gallon) 2 pounds

Melt the rosin, add the caustic lye; then stir in the tar oil and add the nitro-naphthalene.

V.— Camphor 1 ounce

Carbolic acid (75 per cent) 12 ounces

Aqua ammonia 10 drachms

Soft salt water 8 drachms

To be diluted when required for use.

VI.— Heavy tar oil 10 gallons

Caustic soda dissolved in 5 gallons water 600° F 30 pounds

Mix the soda lyes with the oil, and heat the mixture gently with constant stirring; add, when just on the boil, 20 pounds of refuse fat or tallow and 20 pounds of soft soap; continue the heat until thoroughly saponified, and add water gradually to make up 40 gallons. Let it settle; then decant the clear liquid.

Disinfecting Fluids Or Weed-killers.—

I.—Cold water, 20 gallons; powdered rosin, 56 pounds; creosote oil, 40 gallons; sulphuric acid, / 2 gallon; caustic soda lye, 30° B., 9 gallons.

Heat water and dissolve the rosin; then add creosote and boil to a brown mass and shut off steam; next run in sulphuric acid and then the lyes.

II.— Water 40 gallons

Powdered black rosin 56 pounds

Sulphuric acid 2 / 2 gallons

Creosote 10 gallons

Melted pitch 24 pounds

Pearlash boiled in 10 gallons water 56 pounds

Boil water and dissolve rosin and acid; then add creosote and boil well again; add pitch and run in pearlash solution (boiling); then shut off steam.

III. (White).—Water, 40 gallons; turpentine, 2 gallons; ammonia, / 2 gallon; carbolic crystals, 14 pounds; caustic lyes, 2 gallons; white sugar, 60 pounds, dissolved in 40 pounds water.

Heat water to boiling, and add first turpentine, next ammonia, and then carbolic crystals. Stir well until thoroughly dissolved, and add lyes and sugar solution.

Disinfecting Powders.

I.— Sulphate of iron 100 parts

Sulphate of zinc 50 parts

Oak bark, powder 40 parts

Tar 5 parts

Oil 5 parts

II.—Mix together chloride of lime and burnt umber, add water, and set on plates. {263}

Blue Sanitary Powder.—

Powdered alum 2 pounds

Oil of eucalyptus 12 ounces

Rectified spirits of tar 6 ounces

Rectified spirit of turpentine 2 ounces

Ultramarine blue (common) / 4 ounces

Common salt 14 pounds

Mix alum with about 3 pounds of salt in a large mortar, gradually add oil of eucalyptus and spirits, then put in the ultramarine blue, and lastly remaining salt, mixing all well, and passing through a sieve.

Carbolic Powder.

(Strong).—Slaked lime in fine powder, 1 cwt.; carbolic acid, 75 per cent, 2 gallons.

Color with aniline dye and then pass through a moderately fine sieve and put into tins or casks and keep air-tight.

Pink Carbolized Sanitary Powder.—

Powdered alum 6 ounces

Powdered green copperas 5 pounds

Powdered red lead 5 pounds

Calvert’s No. 5 carbolic acid 12 / 2 pounds

Spirit of turpentine 1 / 2 pounds

Calais sand 10 pounds

Slaked lime 60 pounds

Mix carbolic acid with turpentine and sand, then add the other ingredients, lastly the slaked lime and, after mixing, pass through a sieve. It is advisable to use lime that has been slaked some time.

Cuspidor Powder.

—Peat rubble is ground to a powder, and 100 parts put into a mixing machine, which can be hermetically sealed. Then 15 parts of blue vitriol are added either very finely pulverized or in a saturated aqueous solution. Next are added 2 parts of formalin, and lastly 1 part of ground cloves, orange peel, or a sufficient quantity of some volatile oil, to give the desired perfume. The mixing machine is then closed, and kept at work until the constituents are perfectly mixed; the powder is then ready to be put up for the market. Its purpose is to effect a rapid absorption of the sputum, with simultaneous destruction of any microbes present, and to prevent decomposition and consequent unpleasant odors.

Deodorants For Water-closets.—

I.— Ferric chloride 4 parts

Zinc chloride 5 parts

Aluminum chloride 5 parts

Calcium chloride 4 parts

Magnesium chloride 3 parts

Water sufficient to make 90 parts

Dissolve, and add to each gallon 10 grains thymol and / 4 ounce oil of rosemary, previously dissolved in about 6 quarts of alcohol, and filter.

II.— Sulphuric acid, fuming 90 parts

Potassium permanganate 45 parts

Water 4,200 parts

Dissolve the permanganate in the water, and add under the acid. This is said to be a most powerful disinfectant, deodorizer, and germicide. It should not be used where there are metal trimmings.

Formaldehyde For Disinfecting Books, Papers, Etc.

—The property of formaldehyde of penetrating all kinds of paper, even when folded together in several layers, may be utilized for a perfect disinfection of books and letters, especially at a temperature of 86° to 122° F. in a closed room. The degree of penetration as well as the disinfecting power of the formaldehyde depend upon the method of generating the gas. Letters, paper in closed envelopes, are completely disinfected only in 12 hours, books in 24 hours at a temperature of 122° F. when 70 cubic centimeters of formo-chloral—17.5 g. of gas—per cubic meter of space are used. Books must be stood up in such a manner that the gas can enter from the sides. Bacilli of typhoid preserve their vitality longer upon unsized paper and on filtering paper than on other varieties.

There is much difference of opinion as to the disinfecting and deodorizing power of formaldehyde when used to disinfect wooden tierces. While some have found it to answer well, others have got variable results, or failed of success. The explanation seems to be that those who have obtained poor results have not allowed time for the disinfectant to penetrate the pores of the wood, the method of application being wrong. The solution is thrown into the tierce, which is then steamed out at once, whereby the aldehyde is volatilized before it has had time to do its work. If the formal and the steam, instead of being used in succession, were used together, the steam would carry the disinfectant into the pores of the wood. But a still better plan is to give the aldehyde more time. {264}

Another point to be remembered in all cases of disinfection by formaldehyde is that a mechanical cleansing must precede the action of the antiseptic. If there are thick deposits of organic matter which can be easily dislodged with a scrubbing brush, they can only be disinfected by the use of large quantities of formaldehyde used during a long period of time.

General Disinfectants.—

I.— Alum 10 ounces

Sodium carbonate 10 ounces

Ammonium chloride 2 ounces

Zinc chloride 1 ounce

Sodium chloride 2 ounces

Hydrochloric acid, quantity sufficient.

Water to make 1 gallon.

Dissolve the alum in one half gallon of boiling water, and add the sodium carbonate; then add hydrochloric acid until the precipitate formed is dissolved. Dissolve the other salt in water and add to the previous solution. Finally add enough water to make the whole measure 1 gallon, and filter.

In use, this is diluted with 7 parts of water.

II.—For the Sick Room.—In using this ventilate frequently: Guaiac, 10 parts; eucalyptol, 8 parts; phenol, 6 parts; menthol, 4 parts; thymol, 2 parts; oil of cloves, 1 part; alcohol of 90 per cent, 170 parts.

Atomizer Liquid for Sick Rooms.—

by weight

III.— Eucalyptol 10 parts

Thyme oil 5 parts

Lemon oil 5 parts

Lavender oil 5 parts

Spirit, 90 per cent 110 parts

To a pint of water a teaspoonful for evaporation.

Non-Poisonous Sheep Dips.—Paste.—

I.— Creosote (containing 15 per cent to 20 per cent of carbolic acid) 2 parts

Stearine or Yorkshire grease specific gravity, 1340 1 part

Black rosin, 5 per cent to 10 per cent.

Melt the rosin and add grease and soda lyes, and then add creosote cold.

II.— Creosote 1 part

Crude hard rosin oil 1 part

Put rosin oil in copper and heat to about 220° F., and add as much caustic soda powder, 98 per cent strength, as the oil will take up. The quantity depends upon the amount of acetic acid in the oil. If too much soda is added it will remain at the bottom. When the rosin oil has taken up the soda add creosote, and let it stand.

Odorless Disinfectants.—

I.— Ferric chloride 4 parts

Zinc chloride 5 parts

Aluminum chloride 5 parts

Calcium chloride 4 parts

Manganese chloride 3 parts

Water 69 parts

If desired, 10 grains thymol and 2 fluidrachms oil of rosemary, previously dissolved in about 12 fluidrachms of alcohol, may be added to each gallon.

II.— Alum 10 parts

Sodium carbonate 10 parts

Ammonium chloride 2 parts

Sodium chloride 2 parts

Zinc chloride 1 part

Hydrochloric acid, sufficient.

Water 100 parts

Dissolve the alum in about 50 parts boiling water and add the sodium carbonate. The resulting precipitate of aluminum hydrate dissolve with the aid of just sufficient hydrochloric acid, and add the other ingredients previously dissolved in the remainder of the water.

III.— Mercuric chloride 1 part

Cupric sulphate 10 parts

Zinc sulphate 50 parts

Sodium chloride 65 parts

Water to make 1,000 parts.

Paris Salts.

—The disinfectant known by this name is a mixture made from the following recipe:

Zinc sulphate 49 parts

Ammonia alum 49 parts

Potash permanganate 1 part

Lime 1 part

The ingredients are fused together, mixed with a little calcium chloride, and perfumed with thymol.

Platt’s Chlorides.—

I.— Aluminum sulphate 6 ounces

Zinc chloride 1 / 2 ounces

Sodium chloride 2 ounces

Calcium chloride 3 ounces

Water enough to make 2 pints.

II.—A more elaborate formula for a preparation said to resemble the proprietary article is as follows: {265}

Zinc, in strips 4 ounces

Lead carbonate 2 ounces

Chlorinated lime 1 ounce

Magnesium carbonate / 2 ounce

Aluminum hydrate 1 / 2 ounces

Potassium hydrate / 2 ounce

Hydrochloric acid 16 ounces

Water 16 ounces

Whiting, enough.

Dissolve the zinc in the acid; then add the other salts singly in the order named, letting each dissolve before the next is added. When all are dissolved add the water to the solution, and after a couple of hours add a little whiting to neutralize any excess of acid; then filter.

Zinc chloride ranks very low among disinfectants, and the use of such solutions as these, by giving a false sense of security from disease germs, may be the means of spreading rather than of checking the spread of sickness.

Disinfecting Coating.

—Carbolic acid, 2 parts; manganese, 3 parts; calcium chloride, 2 parts; china clay, 10 parts; infusorial earth, 4 parts; dextrin, 2 parts; and water, 10 parts.

DISTEMPER IN CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas.

DIURETIC BALL: See Veterinary Formulas.

DOG APPLICATIONS: See Insecticides.

Dog Biscuit.

The waste portions of meat and tallow, including the skin and fiber, have for years been imported from South American tallow factories in the form of blocks. Most of the dog bread consists principally of these remnants, chopped and mixed with flour. They contain a good deal of firm fibrous tissue, and a large percentage of fat, but are lacking in nutritive salts, which must be added to make good dog bread, just as in the case of the meat flour made from the waste of meat extract factories. The flesh of dead animals is not used by any reputable manufacturers, for the reason that it gives a dark color to the dough, has an unpleasant odor, and if not properly sterilized would be injurious to dogs as a steady diet.

Wheat flour, containing as little bran as possible, is generally used, oats, rye, or Indian meal being only mixed in to make special varieties, or, as in the case of Indian meal, for cheapness. Rye flour would give a good flavor, but it dries slowly, and the biscuits would have to go through a special process of drying after baking, else they would mold and spoil. Dog bread must be made from good wheat flour, of a medium sort, mixed with 15 or 16 per cent of sweet, dry chopped meat, well baked and dried like pilot bread or crackers. This is the rule for all the standard dog bread on the market. There are admixtures which affect more or less its nutritive value, such as salt, vegetables, chopped bones, or bone meal, phosphate of lime, and other nutritive salts. In preparing the dough and in baking, care must be taken to keep it light and porous.

DOG DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.

DOG SOAP: See Soap.

DONARITE: See Explosives.

DOORS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

Doses for Adults and Children.

The usual method pursued by medical men in calculating the doses of medicine for children is to average the dose in proportion to their approximate weight or to figure out a dose upon the assumption that at 12 years of age half of an adult dose will be about right. Calculated on this basis the doses for those under 12 will be in direct proportion to the age in years plus 12, divided into the age. By this rule a child 1 year old should get 1 plus 12, or 13, dividing 1, or / 13 of an adult dose. If the child is 2 years old it should get 2 plus 12, or 14, dividing 2, or / 7 of an adult dose. A child of 3 years should get 3 plus 12, or 15, dividing 3, or / 5 of an adult dose. A child of 4 should get 4 plus 12, or 16, dividing 4, or / 4 of an adult dose.

As both children and adults vary materially in size when of the same age the calculation by approximate weights is the more accurate way. Taking the weight of the average adult as 150 pounds, then a boy, man, or woman, whatever the age, weighing only 75 pounds should receive only one-half of an adult dose, and a man of 300 pounds, provided his weight is the result of a properly proportioned body, and not due to mere adipose {266} tissue, should be double that of the average adult. If the weight is due to mere fat or to some diseased condition of the body, such a calculation would be entirely wrong. The object of the calculation is to get as nearly as possible to the amount of dilution the dose undergoes in the blood or in the intestinal contents of the patient. Each volume of blood should receive exactly the same dose in order to give the same results, other conditions being equal.

DOSE TABLE FOR VETERINARY PURPOSES: See Veterinary Formulas.

Drawings, Preservation of.

Working designs and sketches are easily soiled and rendered unsuitable for further use. This can be easily avoided by coating them with collodion, to which 24 per cent of stearine from a good stearine candle has been added. Lay the drawing on a glass plate or a board, and pour on the collodion, as the photographer treats his plates. After 10 or 20 minutes the design will be dry and perfectly white, possessing a dull luster, and being so well protected that it may be washed off with water without fear of spoiling it.

DRAWINGS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

DRIERS: See Siccatives.

DRILLING, LUBRICANT FOR: See Lubricants.

DRINKS FOR SUMMER AND WINTER: See Beverages.

DROPS, TABLE OF: See Tables.

DRYING OILS: See Oil.

DRY ROT: See Rot.

DUBBING FOR LEATHER: See Lubricants.

DUST-LAYING: See Oil.

DUST PREVENTERS AND DUST CLOTHS: See Household Formulas.

Dyes

In accordance with the requirements of dyers, many of the following recipes describe dyes for large quantities of goods, but to make them equally adapted for the use of private families they are usually given in even quantities, so that it is an easy matter to ascertain the quantity of materials required for dyeing, when once the weight of the goods is known, the quantity of materials used being reduced in proportion to the smaller quantity of goods.

Employ soft water for all dyeing purposes, if it can be procured, using 4 gallons water to 1 pound of goods; for larger quantities a little less water will do. Let all the implements used in dyeing be kept perfectly clean. Prepare the goods by scouring well with soap and water, washing out the soap well, and dipping in warm water, before immersion in the dye or mordant. Goods should be well aired, rinsed, and properly hung up after dyeing. Silks and fine goods should be tenderly handled, otherwise injury to the fabric will result.

Aniline Black.

—Water, 20 to 30 parts; chlorate of potassa, 1 part; sal ammoniac, 1 part; chloride of copper, 1 part; aniline and hydrochloric acid, each 1 part, previously mixed together. It is essential that the preparation should be acid, and the more acid it is the more rapid will be the production of the blacks; if too much so, it may injure the fabric. The fabric or yarn is dried in ageing rooms at a low temperature for 24 hours, and washed afterwards.

Black On Cotton.

—For 40 pounds goods, use sumac, 30 pounds; boil / 4 of an hour; let the goods steep overnight, and immerse them in limewater, 40 minutes, remove, and allow them to drip / 4 of an hour; add copperas, 4 pounds, to the sumac liquor, and dip 1 hour more; next work them through limewater for 20 minutes; then make a new dye of logwood, 20 pounds, boil 2 / 2 hours, and enter the goods 3 hours; then add bichromate of potash, 1 pound, to the new dye, and dip 1 hour more. Work in clean cold water and dry out of the sun.

Black Straw Hat Varnish.

—Best alcohol, 4 ounces; pulverized black sealing wax, 1 ounce. Place in a phial, and put the phial into a warm place, stirring or shaking occasionally until the wax is dissolved. Apply it when warm before the fire or in the sun. This makes a beautiful gloss. {267}

Chrome Black For Wool.

—For 40 pounds of goods, use blue vitriol, 3 pounds; boil a short time, then dip the wool or fabric / 4 of an hour, airing frequently. Take out the goods, and make a dye with logwood, 24 pounds; boil / 2 hour, dip / 4 of an hour, air the goods, and dip / 4 of an hour longer; then wash in strong soapsuds. A good fast color.

Black Dye On Wool, For Mixtures.

—For 50 pounds of wool, take bichromate of potash, 1 pound, 4 ounces; ground argal, 15 ounces; boil together and put in the fabric, stirring well, and let it remain in the dye 5 hours. Take it out, rinse slightly in clean water, then make a new dye, into which put logwood, 1 / 2 pounds. Boil 1 / 4 hours, adding chamber lye, 5 pints. Let the fabric remain in all night, and wash out in clean water.

Bismarck Brown.

—Mix together 1 pound Bismarck, 5 gallons water, and / 4 pound sulphuric acid. This paste dissolves easily in hot water and may be used directly for dyeing. A liquid dye may be prepared by making the bulk of the above mixture to 2 gallons with alcohol. To dye, sour with sulphuric acid; add a quantity of sulphate of soda, immerse the wool, and add the color by small portions, keeping the temperature under 212° F. Very interesting shades may be developed by combining the color with indigo paste or picric acid.

Chestnut Brown For Straw Bonnets.

—For 25 hats, use ground sanders, 1 / 2 pounds; ground curcuma, 2 pounds; powdered gallnuts or sumac, / 4 pound; rasped logwood, / 10 pound. Boil together with the hats in a large kettle (so as not to crowd), for 2 hours, then withdraw the hats, rinse, and let them remain overnight in a bath of nitrate of 4° Bé., when they are washed. A darker brown may be obtained by increasing the quantity of sanders. To give the hats the desired luster, they are brushed with a brush of couchgrass, when dry.

Cinnamon Or Brown For Cotton And Silk.

—Give the goods as much color, from a solution of blue vitriol, 2 ounces, to water, 1 gallon, as they will take up in dipping 15 minutes; then turn them through limewater. This will make a beautiful sky blue of much durability. The fabric should next be run through a solution of prussiate of potash, 1 ounce, to water, 1 gallon.

Brown Dye For Cotton Or Linen.

—Give the pieces a mixed mordant of acetate of alumina and acetate of iron, and then dye them in a bath of madder, or madder and fustic. When the acetate of alumina predominates, the dye has an amaranth tint. A cinnamon tint is obtained by first giving a mordant of alum, next a madder bath, then a bath of fustic, to which a little green copperas has been added.

Brown For Silk.

—Dissolve annatto, 1 pound; pearlash, 4 pounds, in boiling water, and pass the silk through it for 2 hours; then take it out, squeeze well, and dry. Next give it a mordant of alum, and pass through a bath of brazil wood, and afterwards through a bath of logwood, to which a little green copperas has been added; wring it out and dry; afterwards rinse well.

Brown Dye For Wool.

—This may be induced by a decoction of oak bark, with variety of shade according to the quantity employed. If the goods be first passed through a mordant of alum the color will be brightened.

Brown For Cotton.

—Catechu or terra japonica gives cotton a brown color; blue vitriol turns it to the bronze; green copperas darkens it, when applied as a mordant and the stuff is boiled in the bath. Acetate of alumina as a mordant brightens it. The French color Carmelite is given with catechu, 1 pound; verdigris, 4 ounces; and sal ammoniac, 5 ounces.

Dark Snuff Brown For Wool.

—For 50 pounds of goods, take camwood, 10 pounds, boil for 20 minutes, then dip the goods for / 4 of an hour; take them out, and add to the dye, fustic, 25 pounds, boil 12 minutes, and dip the goods / 4 of an hour; then add blue vitriol, 10 ounces, copperas, 2 pounds, 8 ounces; dip again 40 minutes. Add more copperas if the shade is required darker.

Brown For Wool And Silk.

—Infusion or decoction of walnut peels dyes wool and silk a brown color, which is brightened by alum. Horse-chestnut peels also impart a brown color; a mordant of muriate of tin turns it on the bronze, and sugar of lead the reddish brown.

Alkali Blue And Nicholson’s Blue.

—Dissolve 1 pound of the dye in 10 gallons boiling water, and add this by small portions to the dye bath, which should be rendered alkaline by borax. The fabric should be well worked about between each addition of the color. The temperature must be kept under 212° F. To develop the color, wash with water {268} and pass through a bath containing sulphuric acid.

Aniline Blue.

—To 100 pounds of fabric, dissolve 1 / 4 pounds aniline blue in 3 quarts hot alcohol, strain through a filter, and add it to a bath of 130° F.; also 10 pounds Glauber’s salts, and 5 pounds acetic acid. Immerse the goods and handle them well for 20 minutes. Next heat slowly to 200° F.; then add 5 pounds sulphuric acid diluted with water. Let the whole boil 20 minutes longer; then rinse and dry. If the aniline be added in 2 or 3 proportions during the process of coloring, it will facilitate the evenness of the color.

Blue On Cotton.

—For 40 pounds of goods, use copperas, 2 pounds; boil and dip 20 minutes; dip in soapsuds, and return to the dye 3 or 4 times; then make a new bath with prussiate of potash, / 2 pound; oil of vitriol, 1 / 4 pints; boil / 2 hour, rinse out and dry.

Sky Blue On Cotton.

—For 60 pounds of goods, blue vitriol, 5 pounds. Boil a short time, then enter the goods, dip 3 hours, and transfer to a bath of strong limewater. A fine brown color will be imparted to the goods if they are then put through a solution of prussiate of potash.

Blue Dye For Hosiery.

—One hundred pounds of wool are colored with 4 pounds Guatemala or 3 pounds Bengal indigo, in the soda or wood vat. Then boil in a kettle a few minutes, 5 pounds of cudbear or 8 pounds of archil paste; add 1 pound of soda, or, better, 1 pail of urine; then cool the dye to about 170° F. and enter the wool. Handle well for about 20 minutes, then take it out, cool, rinse, and dry. It makes no difference whether the cudbear is put in before or after the indigo. Three ounces of aniline purple dissolved in alcohol, / 2 pint, can be used instead of the cudbear. Wood spirit is cheaper than alcohol, and is much used by dyers for the purpose of dissolving aniline colors. It produces a very pretty shade, but should never be used on mixed goods which have to be bleached.

Dark-blue Dye.

—This dye is suitable for thibets and lastings. Boil 100 pounds of the fabric for 1 / 2 hours in a solution of alum, 25 pounds; tartar, 4 pounds; mordant, 6 pounds; extract of indigo, 6 pounds; cool as usual. Boil in fresh water from 8 to 10 pounds of logwood, in a bag or otherwise, then cool the dye to 170° F. Reel the fabric quickly at first, then let it boil strongly for 1 hour. This is a very good imitation of indigo blue.

Saxon Blue.

—For 100 pounds thibet or comb yarn, use alum, 20 pounds; cream of tartar, 3 pounds; mordant, 2 pounds; extract of indigo, 3 pounds; or carmine, 1 pound, makes a better color. When all is dissolved, cool the kettle to 180° F.; enter and handle quickly at first, then let the fabric boil / 2 hour, or until even. Long boiling dims the color. Zephyr worsted yarn ought to be prepared, first, by boiling it in a solution of alum and sulphuric acid; the indigo is added afterwards.

Logwood And Indigo Blue.

—For 100 pounds of cloth. Color the cloth first by one or two dips in the vat of indigo blue, and rinse it well, and then boil it in a solution of 20 pounds of alum, 2 pounds of half-refined tartar, and 5 pounds of mordant, for 2 hours; finally take it out and cool. In fresh water boil 10 pounds of good logwood for half an hour in a bag or otherwise; cool off to 170° F. before entering. Handle well over a reel, let it boil for half an hour; then take it out, cool and rinse. This is a very firm blue.

Blue Purple For Silk.

—For 40 pounds of goods, take bichromate of potash, 8 ounces; alum, 1 pound; dissolve all and bring the water to a boil, and put in the goods; boil 1 hour. Then empty the dye, and make a new dye with logwood, 8 pounds, or extract of logwood, 1 pound 4 ounces, and boil in this 1 hour longer. Grade the color by using more or less logwood, as dark or light color is wanted.

Blue Purple For Wool.

—One hundred pounds of wool are first dipped in the blue vat to a light shade, then boiled in a solution of 15 pounds of alum and 3 pounds of half-refined tartar, for 1 / 2 hours, the wool taken out, cooled, and let stand 24 hours. Then boil in fresh water 8 pounds of powdered cochineal for a few minutes, cool the kettle to 170° F. Handle the prepared wool in this for 1 hour, when it is ready to cool, rinse and dry. By coloring first with cochineal, as aforesaid, and finishing in the blue vat, the fast purple or dahlia, so much admired in German broadcloths, will be produced. Tin acids must not be used in this color.

To Make Extract Of Indigo Blue.

—Take of vitriol, 2 pounds, and stir into it finely pulverized indigo, 8 ounces, stirring briskly for the first half hour; then {269} cover up, and stir 4 or 5 times daily for a few days. Add a little pulverized chalk, stirring it up, and keep adding it as long as it foams; it will neutralize the acid. Keep it closely corked.

Light Silver Drab.

—For 50 pounds of goods, use logwood, / 2 pound; alum, about the same quantity; boil well, enter the goods, and dip them for 1 hour. Grade the color to any desired shade by using equal parts of logwood and alum.

Gray Dyes:

Slate Dye For Silk.

—For a small quantity, take a pan of warm water and about a teacupful of logwood liquor, pretty strong, and a piece of pearlash the size of a nut; take gray-colored goods and handle a little in this liquid, and it is finished. If too much logwood is used, the color will be too dark.

Slate For Straw Hats.

—First, soak in rather strong warm suds for 15 minutes to remove sizing or stiffening; then rinse in warm water to get out the soap. Scald cudbear, 1 ounce, in sufficient water to cover the hat; work it in this dye at 180° F., until a light purple is obtained. Have a vessel of cold water, blued with the extract of indigo, / 2 ounce, and work or stir the bonnet in this until the tint pleases. Dry, then rinse out with cold water, and dry again in the shade. If the purple is too deep in shade the final slate will be too dark.

Silver Gray For Straw.

—For 25 hats, select the whitest hats and soften them in a bath of crystallized soda to which some clean limewater has been added. Boil for 2 hours in a large vessel, using for a bath a decoction of the following: Alum, 4 pounds; tartaric acid, / 8 pound; some ammoniacal cochineal, and carmine of indigo. A little sulphuric acid may be necessary in order to neutralize the alkali of the cochineal dye. If the last-mentioned ingredients are used, let the hats remain for an hour longer in the boiling bath, then rinse in slightly acidulated water.

Dark Steel.

—Mix black and white wool together in the proportion of 50 pounds of black wool to 7 / 2 pounds of white. For large or small quantities, keep the same proportion, mixing carefully and thoroughly.

Green Dyes:

Aniline Green For Silk.

—Iodine green or night green dissolves easily in warm water. For a liquid dye 1 pound may be dissolved in 1 gallon alcohol, and mixed with 2 gallons water, containing 1 ounce sulphuric acid.

Aniline Green For Wool.

—Prepare two baths, one containing the dissolved dye and a quantity of carbonate of soda or borax. In this the wool is placed, and the temperature raised to 212° F. A grayish green is produced, which must be brightened and fixed in a second bath of water 100° F., to which some acetic acid has been added. Cotton requires preparation by sumac.

Green For Cotton.

—For 40 pounds of goods, use fustic, 10 pounds; blue vitriol, 10 ounces; soft soap, 2 / 2 quarts; and logwood chips, 1 pound 4 ounces. Soak the logwood overnight in a brass vessel, and put it on the fire in the morning, adding the other ingredients. When quite hot it is ready for dyeing; enter the goods at once, and handle well. Different shades may be obtained by letting part of the goods remain longer in the dye.

Green For Silk.

—Boil green ebony in water, and let it settle. Take the clear liquor as hot as the hands can bear, and handle the goods in it until of a bright yellow. Take water and put in a little sulphate of indigo; handle goods in this till of the shade desired. The ebony may previously be boiled in a bag to prevent it from sticking to the silk.

Green For Wool And Silk.

—Take equal quantities of yellow oak and hickory bark, make a strong yellow bath by boiling, and shade to the desired tint by adding a small quantity of extract of indigo.

Green Fustic Dye.

—For 50 pounds of goods, use 50 pounds of fustic with alum, 11 pounds. Soak in water until the strength is extracted, put in the goods until of a good yellow color, remove the chips, and add extract of indigo in small quantities at a time, until the color is satisfactory.

Purple And Violet Dyes:

Aniline Violet And Purple.

—Acidulate the bath by sulphuric acid, or use sulphate of soda; both these substances render the shade bluish. Dye at 212° F. To give a fair middle shade to 10 pounds of wool, a quantity of solution equal to / 2 to / 4 ounces of the solid dye will be required. The color of the dyed fabric is improved by washing in soap and water, and then passing through a bath soured by sulphuric acid.

Purple.

—For 40 pounds of goods, use {270} alum, 3 pounds; muriate of tin, 4 teacups; pulverized cochineal, 1 pound; cream of tartar, 2 pounds. Boil the alum, tin, and cream of tartar, for 20 minutes, add the cochineal and boil 5 minutes; immerse the goods 2 hours; remove and enter them in a new dye composed of brazil wood, 3 pounds; logwood, 7 pounds; alum, 4 pounds, and muriate of tin, 8 cupfuls, adding a little extract of indigo.

Purple For Cotton.

—Get up a tub of hot logwood liquor, enter 3 pieces, give them 5 ends, and hedge out. Enter them in a clean alum tub, give them 5 ends, and hedge out. Get up another tub of logwood liquor, enter, give them 5 ends, and hedge out; renew the alum tub, give 5 ends in that, and finish.

Purple For Silk.

—For 10 pounds of goods, enter the goods in a blue dye bath, and secure a light-blue color, dry, and dip in a warm solution containing alum, 2 / 2 pounds. Should a deeper color be required, add a little extract of indigo.

Solferino And Magenta For Woolen, Silk, Or Cotton.

—For 1 pound of woolen goods, magenta shade, 96 grains, apothecaries’ weight, of aniline red, will be required. Dissolve in a little warm alcohol, using, say, 6 fluidounces, or about 6 gills alcohol per ounce of aniline. Many dyers use wood spirits because of its cheapness. For a solferino shade, use 64 grains aniline red, and dissolve in 4 ounces alcohol, to each 1 pound of goods. Cold water, 1 quart, will dissolve these small quantities of aniline red, but the cleanest and quickest way will be found by using the alcohol, or wood spirits. Clean the cloth and goods by steeping at a gentle heat in weak soapsuds, rinse in several masses of clean water and lay aside moist. The alcoholic solution of aniline is to be added from time to time to the warm or hot dye bath, till the color on the goods is of the desired shade. The goods are to be removed from the dye bath before each addition of the alcoholic solution, and the bath is to be well stirred before the goods are returned. The alcoholic solution should be first dropped into a little water, and well mixed, and the mixture should then be strained into the dye bath. If the color is not dark enough after working from 20 to 30 minutes, repeat the removal of the goods from the bath, and the addition of the solution, and the re-immersion of the goods from 15 to 30 minutes more, or until suited, then remove from the bath and rinse in several masses of clean water, and dry in the shade. Use about 4 gallons water for dye bath for 1 pound of goods; less water for larger quantities.

Violet For Silk Or Wool.

—A good violet dye may be given by passing the goods first through a solution of verdigris, then through a decoction of logwood, and lastly through alum water. A fast violet may be given by dyeing the goods crimson with cochineal, without alum or tartar, and after rinsing passing them through the indigo vat. Linens or cottons are first galled with 18 per cent of gallnuts, next passed through a mordant of alum, iron liquor, and sulphate of copper, working them well, then worked in a madder bath made with an equal weight of root, and lastly brightened with soap or soda.

Violet For Straw Bonnets.

—Take alum, 4 pounds; tartaric acid, 1 pound; chloride of tin, 1 pound. Dissolve and boil, allowing the hats to remain in the boiling solution 2 hours; then add enough decoction of logwood, carmine, and indigo to induce the desired shade, and rinse finally in water in which some alum has been dissolved.

Wine Color.

—For 50 pounds of goods, use camwood, 10 pounds, and boil 20 minutes; dip the goods / 2 hour, boil again, and dip 40 minutes; then darken with blue vitriol, 15 ounces, and 5 pounds of copperas.

Lilac For Silk.

—For 5 pounds of silk, use archil, 7 / 2 pounds, and mix well with the liquor. Make it boil 1 hour, and dip the silk quickly; then let it cool, and wash in river water. A fine half violet, or lilac, more or less full, will be obtained.

Red, Crimson, And Pink Dyes:

Aniline Red.

—Inclose the aniline in a small muslin bag. Have a kettle (tin or brass) filled with moderately hot water and rub the substance out. Then immerse the goods to be colored, and in a short time they are done. It improves the color to wring the goods out of strong soapsuds before putting them in the dye. This is a permanent color on wool or silk.

Red Madder.

—To 100 pounds of fabric, use 20 pounds of alum, 5 pounds of tartar, and 5 pounds of muriate of tin. When these are dissolved, enter the goods and let them boil for 2 hours, then take out, let cool, and lay overnight. Into fresh water, stir 75 pounds of good {271} madder, and enter the fabric at 120° F. and bring it up to 200° F. in the course of an hour. Handle well to secure evenness, then rinse and dry.

Red For Wool.

—For 40 pounds of goods, make a tolerably thick paste of lac dye and sulphuric acid, and allow it to stand for a day. Then take tartar, 4 pounds, tin liquor, 2 pounds 8 ounces, and 3 pounds of the paste; make a hot bath with sufficient water, and enter the goods for / 4 hour; afterwards carefully rinse and dry.

Crimson For Silk.

—For 1 pound of goods, use alum, 3 ounces; dip at hand heat 1 hour; take out and drain, while making a new dye, by boiling for 10 minutes, cochineal, 3 ounces; bruised nutgalls, 2 ounces; and cream of tartar, / 2 ounce, in 1 pail of water. When a little cool begin to dip, raising the heat to a boil, continuing to dip 1 hour. Wash and dry.

Aniline Scarlet.

—For every 40 pounds of goods, dissolve 5 pounds white vitriol (sulphate of zinc) at 180° F., place the goods in this bath for 10 minutes, then add the color, prepared by boiling for a few minutes, 1 pound aniline scarlet in 3 gallons water, stirring the same continually. This solution has to be filtered before being added to the bath. The goods remain in the latter for 15 minutes, when they have become browned and must be boiled for another half hour in the same bath after the solution of sal ammoniac. The more of this is added the deeper will be the shade.

Scarlet With Cochineal.

—For 50 pounds of wool, yarn, or cloth, use cream of tartar, 1 pound 9 ounces; cochineal, pulverized, 12 / 2 ounces; muriate of tin or scarlet spirit, 8 pounds. After boiling the dye, enter the goods, work them well for 15 minutes, then boil them 1 / 2 hours, slowly agitating the goods while boiling, wash in clean water, and dry out of the sun.

Scarlet With Lac Dye.

—For 100 pounds of flannel or yarn, take 25 pounds of ground lac dye, 15 pounds of scarlet spirit (made as per directions below), 5 pounds of tartar, 1 pound of flavine, or according to shade, 1 pound of tin crystals, 5 pounds of muriatic acid. Boil all for 15 minutes, then cool the dye to 170° F. Enter the goods, and handle them quickly at first. Let boil 1 hour, and rinse while yet hot, before the gum and impurities harden. This color stands scouring with soap better than cochineal scarlet. A small quantity of sulphuric acid may be added to dissolve the gum.

Muriate Of Tin Or Scarlet Spirit.

—Take 16 pounds muriatic acid, 22° Bé.; 1 pound feathered tin, and water, 2 pounds. The acid should be put in a stoneware pot, and the tin added, and allowed to dissolve. The mixture should be kept a few days before using. The tin is feathered or granulated by melting in a suitable vessel, and pouring it from a height of about 5 feet into a pailful of water. This is a most powerful agent in certain colors, such as scarlets, oranges, pinks, etc.

Pink For Cotton.

—For 40 pounds of goods, use redwood, 20 pounds; muriate of tin, 2 / 2 pounds. Boil the redwood 1 hour, turn off into a large vessel, add the muriate of tin, and put in the goods. Let it stand 5 or 10 minutes, and a good fast pink will be produced.

Pink For Wool.

—For 60 pounds of goods, take alum, 5 pounds 12 ounces; boil and immerse the goods 50 minutes; then add to the dye cochineal well pulverized, 1 pound, 4 ounces; cream of tartar, 5 pounds; boil and enter the goods while boiling, until the color is satisfactory.

Yellow, Orange, And Bronze Dyes:

Aniline Yellow.

—This color is slightly soluble in water, and for dyers’ use may be used directly for the preparation of the bath dye, but is best used by dissolving 1 pound of dye in 2 gallons alcohol. Temperature of bath should be under 200° F. The color is much improved and brightened by a trace of sulphuric acid.

Yellow For Cotton.

—For 40 pounds goods, use sugar of lead, 3 pounds 8 ounces; dip the goods 2 hours. Make a new dye with bichromate of potash, 2 pounds; dip until the color suits, wring out and dry. If not yellow enough repeat the operation.

Yellow For Silk.

—For 10 pounds of goods, use sugar of lead, ounces; alum, 2 pounds. Enter the goods, and let them remain 12 hours; remove them, drain, and make a new dye with fustic, 10 pounds. Immerse until the color suits.

Orange.

—I.—For 50 pounds of goods, use argal, 3 pounds; muriate of tin, 1 quart; boil and dip 1 hour; then add to the dye, fustic, 25 pounds; madder, 2 / 2 {272} quarts; and dip again 40 minutes. If preferred, cochineal, 1 pound 4 ounces, may be used instead of the madder, as a better color is induced by it.

II.—For 40 pounds of goods, use sugar of lead, 2 pounds, and boil 15 minutes. When a little cool, enter the goods, and dip for 2 hours, wring them out, make a fresh dye with bichromate of potash, 4 pounds; madder, 1 pound, and immerse until the desired color is secured. The shade may be varied by dipping in limewater.

Bronze.

—Sulphate or muriate of manganese dissolved in water with a little tartaric acid imparts a beautiful bronze tint. The stuff after being put through the solution must be turned through a weak lye of potash, and afterwards through another of chloride of lime, to brighten and fix it.

Prussiate of copper gives a bronze or yellowish-brown color to silk. The piece well mordanted with blue vitriol may be passed through a solution of prussiate of potash.

Mulberry For Silk.

—For 5 pounds of silk, use alum, 1 pound 4 ounces; dip 50 minutes, wash out, and make a dye with brazil wood, 5 ounces, and logwood, 1 / 4 ounces, by boiling together. Dip in this / 2 hour; then add more brazil wood and logwood, equal parts, until the color suits.

Feather Dyes.

I.—Cut some white curd soap in small pieces, pour boiling water on them, and add a little pearlash. When the soap is quite dissolved, and the mixture cool enough for the hand to bear, plunge the feathers into it, and draw them through the hand till the dirt appears squeezed out of them; pass them through a clean lather with some blue in it; then rinse them in cold water with blue to give them a good color. Beat them against the hand to shake off the water, and dry by shaking them near a fire. When perfectly dry, coil each fiber separately with a blunt knife or ivory folder.

II.—Black.—Immerse for 2 or 3 days in a bath, at first hot, of logwood, 8 parts, and copperas or acetate of iron, 1 part.

III.—Blue.—Same as II, but with the indigo vat.

IV.—Brown.—By using any of the brown dyes for silk or woolen.

V.—Crimson.—A mordant of alum, followed by a hot bath of brazil wood, afterwards by a weak dye of cudbear.

VI.—Pink or Rose.—With safflower or lemon juice.

VII.—Plum.—With the red dye, followed by an alkaline bath.

VIII.—Red.—A mordant of alum, followed by a bath of brazil wood.

IX.—Yellow.—A mordant of alum, followed by a bath of turmeric or weld.

X.—Green.—Take of verdigris and verditer, of each 1 ounce; gum water, 1 pint; mix them well and dip the feathers, they having been first soaked in hot water, into the said mixture.

XI.—Purple.—Use lake and indigo.

XII.—Carnation.—Vermilion and smalt.

Dyes For Artificial Flowers.

The French employ velvet, fine cambric, and kid for the petals, and taffeta for the leaves. Very recently thin plates of bleached whalebone have been used for some portions of the artificial flowers.

Colors and Stains.—I.—Blue.—Indigo dissolved in oil of vitriol, and the acid partly neutralized with salt of tartar or whiting.

II.—Green.—A solution of distilled verdigris.

III.—Lilac.—Liquid archil.

IV.—Red.—Carmine dissolved in a solution of salt of tartar, or in spirits of hartshorn.

V.—Violet.—Liquid archil mixed with a little salt of tartar.

VI.—Yellow.—Tincture of turmeric. The colors are generally applied with the fingers.

Dyes For Furs:

I.—Brown.—Use tincture of logwood.

II.—Red.—Use ground brazil wood, / 2 pound; water, 1 / 2 quarts; cochineal, / 2 ounce; boil the brazil wood in the water 1 hour; strain and add the cochineal; boil 15 minutes.

III.—Scarlet.—Boil / 2 ounce saffron in / 2 pint of water, and pass over the work before applying the red.

IV.—Blue.—Use logwood, 7 ounces; blue vitriol, 1 ounce; water, 22 ounces; boil.

V.—Purple.—Use logwood, 11 ounces; alum, 6 ounces; water, 29 ounces.

VI.—Green.—Use strong vinegar, 1 / 2 pints; best verdigris, 2 ounces, ground fine; sap green, / 4 ounce; mix all together and boil. {273}

Dyes For Hats.

The hats should be at first strongly galled by boiling a long time in a decoction of galls with a little logwood so that the dye may penetrate into their substance; after which a proper quantity of vitriol and decoction of logwood, with a little verdigris, are added, and the hats kept in this mixture for a considerable time. They are afterwards put into a fresh liquor of logwood, galls, vitriol, and verdigris, and, when the hats are costly, or of a hair which with difficulty takes the dye, the same process is repeated a third time. For obtaining the most perfect color, the hair or wool is dyed blue before it is formed into hats.

The ordinary bath for dyeing hats, employed by London manufacturers, consists, for 12 dozen, of 144 pounds of logwood; 12 pounds of green sulphate of iron or copperas; 7 / 2 pounds verdigris. The logwood having been introduced into the copper and digested for some time, the copperas and verdigris are added in successive quantities, and in the above proportions, along with every successive 2 or 3 dozen of hats suspended upon the dripping machine. Each set of hats, after being exposed to the bath with occasional airings during 40 minutes, is taken off the pegs, and laid out upon the ground to be more completely blackened by the peroxydizement of the iron with the atmospheric oxygen. In 3 or 4 hours the dyeing is completed. When fully dyed, the hats are well washed in running water.

Straw hats or bonnets may be dyed black by boiling them 3 or 4 hours in a strong liquor of logwood, adding a little copperas occasionally. Let the bonnets remain in the liquor all night; then take out to dry in the air. If the black is not satisfactory, dye again after drying. Rub inside and out with a sponge moistened in fine oil; then block.

I.—Red Dye.—Boil ground brazil wood in a lye of potash, and boil your straw hats in it.

II.—Blue Dye.—Take a sufficient quantity of potash lye, 1 pound of litmus or lacmus, ground; make a decoction and then put in the straw, and boil it.

To Dye, Stiffen, and Bleach Felt Hats.

Felt hats are dyed by repeated immersion, drawing and dipping in a hot watery solution of logwood, 38 parts; green vitriol, 3 parts; verdigris, 2 parts; repeat the immersions and drawing with exposure to the air 13 or 14 times, or until the color suits, each step in the process lasting from 10 to 15 minutes. Aniline colors may be advantageously used instead of the above. For a stiffening, dissolve borax, 10 parts; carbonate of potash, 3 parts, in hot water; then add shellac, 50 parts, and boil until all is dissolved; apply with a sponge or a brush, or by immersing the hat when it is cold, and dip at once in very dilute sulphuric or acetic acid to neutralize the alkali and fix the shellac. Felt hats can be bleached by the use of sulphuric acid gas.

Liquid Dye Colors.

These colors, thickened with a little gum, may be used as inks in writing, or as colors to tint maps, foils, artificial flowers, etc., or to paint on velvet:

I.—Blue.—Dilute Saxon blue or sulphate of indigo with water. If required for delicate work, neutralize with chalk.

II.—Purple.—Add a little alum to a strained decoction of logwood.

III.—Green.—Dissolve sap green in water and add a little alum.

IV.—Yellow.—Dissolve annatto in a weak lye of subcarbonate of soda or potash.

V.—Golden Color.—Steep French berries in hot water, strain, and add a little gum and alum.

VI.—Red.—Dissolve carmine in ammonia, or in weak carbonate of potash water, or infuse powdered cochineal in water, strain, and add a little gum in water.

Unclassified Dyers’ Recipes:

To Cleanse Wool.

—Make a hot bath composed of water, 4 parts; and urine, 1 part; enter the wool, teasing and opening it out to admit the full action of the liquid. After 20 minutes’ immersion, remove from the liquid and allow it to drain; then rinse in clean running water, and spread out to dry. The liquid is good for subsequent operations, only keep up the proportions, and use no soap.

To Extract Oil Spots From Finished Goods.

—Saturate the spot with benzine; then place two pieces of very soft blotting paper under and two upon it, press well with a hot iron, and the grease will be absorbed.

New Mordant For Aniline Colors.

—Immerse the goods for some hours in a bath of cold water in which chloride or acetate of zinc has been dissolved until the solution shows 2° Bé. For the wool the {274} mordanting bath should be at a boiling heat, and the goods should also be placed in a warm bath of tannin, 90° F., for half an hour. In dyeing, a hot solution of the color must be used to which should be added, in the case of the cotton, some chloride of zinc, and, in the case of the wool, a certain amount of tannin solution.

To Render Aniline Colors Soluble In Water.

—A solution of gelatin in acetic acid of almost the consistence of syrups is first made, and the aniline in fine is gradually added, stirring all the time so as to make a homogeneous paste. The mixture is then to be heated over a water bath to the temperature of boiling water and kept at that heat for some time.

Limewater For Dyers’ Use.

—Put some lime, 1 pound, and strong limewater, 1 / 2 pounds, into a pail of water; rummage well for 7 or 8 minutes. Then let it rest until the lime is precipitated and the water clear; add this quantity to a tubful of clear water.

To Renew Old Silks.

—Unravel and put them in a tub, cover with cold water, and let them remain 1 hour. Dip them up and down, but do not wring; hang up to drain, and iron while very damp.

Fuller’s Purifier For Cloths.

—Dry, pulverize, and sift the following ingredients: Fuller’s earth, 6 pounds; French chalk, 4 ounces; pipe clay, 1 pound. Make into a paste with rectified oil of turpentine, 1 ounce; alcohol, 2 ounces; melted oil soap, 1 / 2 pounds. Compound the mixture into cakes of any desired size, keeping them in water, or small wooden boxes.

To Fix Dyes.

—Dissolve 20 ounces of gelatin in water, and add 3 ounces of bichromate of potash. This is done in a dark room. The coloring matter is then added and the goods submitted thereto, after which they are exposed to the action of light. The pigment thus becomes insoluble in water and the color is fast.

Dyes And Dyestuffs.

Prominent among natural dyestuffs is the coloring matter obtained from logwood and known as “hæmatein.” The color-forming substance (or chromogen), hæmatoxylin, exists in the logwood partly free and partly as a glucoside. When pure, hæmatoxylin forms nearly colorless crystals, but on oxidation, especially in the presence of an alkali, it is converted into the coloring matter hæmatein, which forms colored lakes with metallic bases, yielding violets, blues, and blacks with various mordants. Logwood comes into commerce in the form of logs, chips, and extracts. The chips are moistened with water and exposed in heaps so as to induce fermentation, alkalies and oxidizing agents being added to promote the “curing” or oxidation. When complete and the chips have assumed a deep reddish-brown color, the decoction is made which is employed in dyeing. The extract offers convenience in transportation, storage, and use. It is now usually made from logwood chips that have not been cured. The chips are treated in an extractor, pressure often being used. The extract is sometimes adulterated with chestnut, hemlock, and quercitron extracts, and with glucose or molasses.

Fustic is the heart-wood of certain species of trees indigenous to the West Indies and tropical South America. It is sold as chips and extract, yields a coloring principle which forms lemon-yellow lakes with alumina and is chiefly used in dyeing wool. Young fustic is the heart-wood of a sumac native to the shores of the Mediterranean, which yields an orange-colored lake with alumina and tin salts.

Cutch, or catechu, is obtained from the wood and pods of the Acacia catechu, and from the betel nut, both native in India. Cutch appears in commerce in dark-brown lumps, which form a dark-brown solution with water. It contains catechu-tannic acid, as tannin and catechin, and is extensively used in weighting black silks, as a mordant for certain basic coal-tar dyes, as a brown dye on cotton, and for calico printing.

Indigo, which is obtained from the glucoside indican existing in the indigo plant and in woad, is one of the oldest dyestuffs. It is obtained from the plant by a process of fermentation and oxidation. Indigo appears in commerce in dark-blue cubical cakes, varying very much in composition as they often contain indigo red and indigo brown, besides moisture, mineral matters, and glutinous substances. Consequently the color varies. Powdered indigo dissolves in concentrated fuming sulphuric acid, forming monosulphonic and disulphonic acids. On neutralizing these solutions with sodium carbonate and precipitating the indigo carmine with common salt there is obtained the indigo extract, soluble indigo, and indigo carmine of commerce. True indigo carmine is the sodium salt of the disulphonic acid, and when sold dry it is called “indigotine.”

One of the most important of the recent {275} achievements of chemistry is the synthetic production of indigo on a commercial scale.

Artificial dyestuffs assumed preponderating importance with the discovery of the lilac color mauve by Perkin in 1856, and fuchsine or magenta by Verguin in 1895, for with each succeeding year other colors have been discovered, until at the present time there are several thousand artificial organic dyes or colors on the market. Since the first of these were prepared from aniline or its derivatives the colors were known as “aniline dyes,” but as a large number are now prepared from other constituents of coal tar than aniline they are better called “coal-tar dyestuffs.” There are many schemes of classification. Benedikt-Knecht divides them into I, aniline or amine dyes; II, phenol dyes; III, azo dyes; IV, quinoline and acridine derivatives; V, anthracene dyes; and VI, artificial indigo.

Of the anthracene dyes, the alizarine is the most important, since this is the coloring principle of the madder. The synthesis of alizarine from anthracene was effected by Grabe and Liebermann in 1868. This discovery produced a complete revolution in calico printing, turkey-red dyeing, and in the manufacture of madder preparations. Madder finds to-day only a very limited application in the dyeing of wool.

In textile dyeing and printing, substances called mordants are largely used, either to fix or to develop the color on the fiber. Substances of mineral origin, such as salts of aluminum, chromium, iron, copper, antimony, and tin, principally, and many others to a less extent and of organic origin, like acetic, oxalic, citric, tartaric, and lactic acid, sulphonated oils, and tannins are employed as mordants.

Iron liquor, known as black liquor or pyrolignite of iron, is made by dissolving scrap iron in pyroligneous acid. It is used as a mordant in dyeing silks and cotton and in calico printing.

Red liquor is a solution of aluminum acetate in acetic acid, and is produced by acting on calcium or lead acetate solutions with aluminum sulphate or the double alums, the supernatant liquid forming the red liquor. The red liquor of the trade is often the sulpho-acetate of alumina resulting when the quantity of calcium or lead acetate is insufficient to completely decompose the aluminum salt. Ordinarily the solutions have a dark-brown color and a strong pyroligneous odor. It is called red liquor because it was first used in dyeing reds. It is employed as a mordant by the cotton dyer and largely by the printer.

Non-poisonous Textile And Egg Dyes For Household Use.

—The preparation of non-poisonous colors for dyeing fabrics and eggs at home constitutes a separate department in the manufacture of dyestuffs.

Certain classes of aniline dyes may be properly said to form the materials. The essence of this color preparation consists chiefly in diluting or weakening the coal-tar dyes, made in the aniline factories, and bringing them down to a certain desired shade by the addition of certain chemicals suited to their varying characteristics, which, though weakening the color, act at the same time as the so-called mordants.

The anilines are divided with reference to their characteristic reactions into groups of basic, acid, moderately acid, as well as dyes that are insoluble in water.

In cases where combinations of one or more colors are needed, only dyes of similar reaction can be combined, that is, basic with basic, and acid with acid.

For the purpose of reducing the original intensity of the colors, and also as mordants, dextrin, Glauber’s salt, alum, or aluminum sulphate is pressed into service. Where Glauber’s salt is used, the neutral salt is exclusively employed, which can be had cheaply and in immense quantities in the chemical industry. Since it is customary to pack the color mixtures in two paper boxes, one stuck into the other, and moreover since certain coal-tar dyes are only used in large crystals, it is only reasonable that the mordants should be calcined and not put up in the shape of crystallized salts, particularly since these latter are prone to absorb the moisture from the air, and when thus wet likely to form a compact mass very difficult to dissolve. This inconvenience often occurs with the large crystals of fuchsine and methyl violet. Because these two colors are mostly used in combination with dextrin to color eggs, and since dextrin is also very hygroscopic, it is better in these individual cases to employ calcined Glauber’s salt. In the manufacture of egg colors the alkaline coloring coal-tar dyes are mostly used, and they are to be found in a great variety of shades.

Of the non-poisonous egg dyes, there are some ten or a dozen numbers, new red, carmine, scarlet, pink, violet, blue, yellow, orange, green, brown, black, heliotrope, etc., which when mixed will {276} enable the operator to form shades almost without number.

The manufacture of the egg dyes as carried on in the factory consists in a mechanical mixing of basic coal-tar dyestuffs, also some direct coloring benzidine dyestuffs, with dextrin in the ratio of about 1 part of aniline dye to 8 parts of dextrin; under certain circumstances, according to the concentrated state of the dyes, the reducing quantity of the dextrin may be greatly increased. As reducing agents for these colors insoluble substances may also be employed. A part also of the egg dyes are treated with the neutral sulphate; for instance, light brilliant green, because of its rubbing off, is made with dextrin and Glauber’s salt in the proportion of 1:3:3.

For the dyeing of eggs such color mixtures are preferably employed as contain along with the dye proper a fixing agent (dextrin) as well as a medium for the superficial mordanting of the eggshell. The colors will then be very brilliant.

Here are some recipes:

Color Dyestuff Parts
by
weight Cit.
Acid Dextrin

Blue Marine blue B. N. 3.5 35.0 60.0

Brown Vesuvin S. 30.0 37.5 30.0

Green Brilliant green O. 13.5 18.0 67.5

Orange Orange II. 9.0 18.0 75.0

Red Diamond fuchsine I. 3.5 18.0 75.0

Pink Eosin A. 4.5 — 90.0

Violet Methyl violet 6 B. 3.6 18.0 75.0

Yellow Naphthol yellow S. 13.5 36.0 67.5

Very little of these mixtures suffices for dyeing five eggs. The coloring matter is dissolved in 600 parts by weight of boiling water, while the eggs to be dyed are boiled hard, whereupon they are placed in the dye solution until they seem sufficiently colored. The dyes should be put up in waxed paper.

Fast Stamping Color.

—Rub up separately, 20 parts of cupric sulphate and 20 parts of anilic hydrochlorate, then mix carefully together, after adding 10 parts of dextrin. The mixture is next ground with 5 parts of glycerine and sufficient water until a thick, uniform, paste-like mass results, adapted for use by means of stencil and bristle-brush. Aniline black is formed thereby in and upon the fiber, which is not destroyed by boiling.

New Mordanting Process.

—The ordinary method of mordanting wool with a bichromate and a reducing agent always makes the fiber more or less tender, and Amend proposed to substitute the use of a solution of chromic acid containing 1 to 2 per cent of the weight of the wool, at a temperature not exceeding 148° F., and to treat it afterwards with a solution of sodium bisulphite. According to a recent French patent, better results are obtained with neutral or slightly basic chromium sulphocyanide. This salt, if neutral or only slightly basic, will mordant wool at 148° F. The double sulphocyanide of chromium and ammonium, got by dissolving chromic oxide in ammonium sulphocyanide, can also be used. Nevertheless, in order to precipitate chromium chromate on the fiber, it is advisable to have a soluble chromate and a nitrate present, as well as a soluble copper salt and a free acid. One example of the process is as follows: Make the bath with 2 to 3 per cent of ammonio-chromium sulphocyanide, one-half of 1 per cent sodium bichromate, one-third of 1 per cent sodium nitrite, one-third of 1 per cent sulphate of copper, and 1.5 per cent sulphuric acid—percentages based on the weight of the wool. Enter cold and slowly heat to about 140° to 150° F. Then work for half an hour, lift and rinse. The bath does not exhaust and can be reinforced and used again.

Process For Dyeing In Khaki Colors.

—Bichromate of potash or of soda, chloride of manganese, and a solution of acetate of soda or formiate of soda (15° Bé.) are dissolved successively in equal quantities.

The solution thus composed of these three salts is afterwards diluted at will, according to the color desired, constituting a range from a dark brown to a light olive green shade. The proportions of the three salts may be increased or diminished, in order to obtain shades more or less bister.

Cotton freed from its impurities by the usual methods, then fulled as ordinarily, is immersed in the bath. After a period, varying according to the results desired, the cotton, threads, or fabrics of cotton, are washed thoroughly and plunged, still wet, into an alkaline solution, of which the concentration ought never to be less than 14° Bé. This degree of concentration is necessary to take hold of the fiber when the cotton comes in contact with the alkaline bath, and by the contraction which takes place the oxides of chrome and of manganese remain fixed in the fibers.

This second operation is followed by washing in plenty of water, and then the cotton is dried in the open air. If the color is judged to be too pale, the threads or fabrics are immersed again in the initial bath, left the necessary time for obtaining the desired shade, and then {277} washed, but without passing them through an alkaline bath. This process furnishes a series of khaki colors, solid to light, to fulling and to chlorine.

Lakes:

Scarlet Lake.—In a vat holding 120 gallons provided with good agitating apparatus, dissolve 8 pounds potash alum in 10 gallons hot water and add 50 gallons cold water. Prepare a solution of 2 pounds ammonia soda and add slowly to the alum solution, stirring all the time. In a second vessel dissolve 5 pounds of brilliant scarlet aniline, by first making it into a paste with cold water and afterwards pouring boiling water over it; now let out steam into the vat until a temperature of 150° to 165° F. is obtained. Next dissolve 10 pounds barium chloride in 10 gallons hot water in a separate vessel, add this very slowly, stir at least 3 hours, keeping up temperature to the same figures. Fill up vat with cold water and leave the preparation for the night. Next morning the liquor (which should be of a bright red color) is drawn off, and cold water again added. Wash by decantation 3 times, filter, press gently, and make into pulp.

It is very important to precipitate the aluminum cold, and heat up before adding the dyestuff. The chemicals used for precipitating must be added very slowly and while constantly stirring. The quantity used for the three washings is required each time to be double the quantity originally used.

I.—Madder Lakes.—Prepare from the root 1 pound best madder, alum water (1 pound alum with 1 / 2 gallons of water), saturated solution of carbonate of potash ( / 4 pound carbonate of potash to / 2 gallon of water).

The madder root is inclosed in a linen bag of fine texture, and bruised with a pestle in a large mortar with 2 gallons of water (free from lime) added in small quantities at a time, until all the coloring matter is extracted. Make this liquor boil, and gradually pour into the boiling water solution. Add the carbonate of potash solution gradually, stirring all the time. Let the mixture stand for 12 hours and drop and dry as required.

II.—Garancine Process.—This is the method usually employed in preference to that from the root. Garancine is prepared by steeping madder root in sulphate of soda and washing.

Garancine 2 pounds

Alum (dissolved in a little water) 2 pounds

Chloride of tin / 2 ounce

Sufficient carbonate of potash or soda to precipitate the alum.

Boil the garancine in 4 gallons of pure water; add the alum, and continue boiling from 1 to 2 hours. Allow the product to partially settle and filter through flannel before cooling. Add to the filtrate the chloride of tin, and sufficient of the potash or soda solution to precipitate the alum; filter through flannel and wash well. The first filtrate may be used for lake of an inferior quality, and the garancine originally employed may also be treated as above, when a lake slightly inferior to the first may be obtained.

Maroon Lake.—Take of a mixture made of:

/ 3 Sapan wood, / 3 Lima wood 56 parts

Soda crystals 42 parts

Alum 56 parts

Extract the color from the woods as for rose pink, and next boil the soda and alum together and add to the woods solution cold. This must be washed clean before adding to the wood liquor.

Carnation Lake.—

Water 42 gallons

Cochineal 12 pounds

Salts of tartar 1 / 2 pounds

Potash alum / 4 pound

Nitrous acid, nitromuriate of tin 44 pounds

Muriatic acid, nitromuriate of tin 60 pounds

Pure block tin, nitromuriate of tin 22 pounds

Should give specific gravity 1.310.

Boil the water with close steam, taking care that no iron touches it; add the cochineal and boil for not more than five minutes; then turn off the steam and add salts of tartar and afterwards carefully add the alum. If it should not rise, put on steam until it does, pass through a 120-mesh sieve into a settling vat, and let it stand for 48 hours (not for precipitation). Add gradually nitromuriate of tin until the test on blotting paper (given below) shows that the separation is complete. Draw off clear water after it has settled, and filter. To test, rub a little of the paste on blotting paper, then dry on steam chest or on the hand, and if on bending it cracks, too much tin has been used.

To Test the Color to See if it is Precipitating.—Put a drop of color on white blotting paper, and if the color spreads, it is not precipitating. If there is a {278} colorless ring around the spot of color it shows that precipitation is taking place; if the white ring is too strong, too much has been used.

Black Lakes For Wall-paper Manufacture:

Bluish-Black Lake.—Boil well 220 parts of Domingo logwood in 1,000 parts of water to which 2 parts of ammonia soda have been added; to the boiling logwood add next 25 parts of green vitriol and then 3.5 parts of sodium bichromate. The precipitated logwood lake is washed out well twice and then filtered.

Black Lake AI.—Logwood extract, Sanford, 120 parts; green vitriol, 30 parts; acetic acid, 7° Bé., 10 parts; sodium bichromate, 16 parts; powdered alum, 20 parts. The logwood extract is first dissolved in boiling water and brought to 25° Bé. by the addition of cold water. Then the remaining ingredients are added in rotation, the salts in substance, finely powdered, with constant stirring. After the precipitation, wash twice and filter.

Aniline Black Lake.—In the precipitating vat filled with 200 parts of cold water enter with constant stirring in the order mentioned the following solutions kept in readiness: Forty parts of alum dissolved in 800 parts of water; 10 parts of calcined soda dissolved in 100 parts of water; 30 parts of azo black dissolved in 1,500 parts of water; 0.6 parts of “brilliant green” dissolved in 100 parts of water; 0.24 parts of new fuchsine dissolved in 60 parts of water; 65 parts of barium chloride dissolved in 1,250 parts of water. Allow to settle for 24 hours, wash the lake three times and filter it.

Carmine Lake For Wall Paper And Colored Papers.

—Ammonia soda (98 per cent), 57.5 parts by weight; spirits (96 per cent), 40 parts by weight; corallin (dark), 10 parts by weight; corallin (pale), 5 parts by weight; spirit of sal ammoniac (16° Bé.), 8 parts by weight; sodium phosphate, 30 parts by weight; stannic chloride, 5 parts by weight; barium chloride, 75 parts by weight. Dissolve the corallin in the spirit, and filter the solution carefully into eight bottles, each containing 1 part of the above quantity of spirit of sal ammoniac, and let stand. The soda should meanwhile be dissolved in hot water and the solution run into the stirring vat, in which there is cold water to the height of 17 inches. Add the sodium phosphate, which has been dissolved in a copper vessel, then the corallin solution, and next the stannic chloride diluted with 3 pailfuls of cold water. Lastly the barium chloride solution is added. The day previous barium chloride is dissolved in a cask in as little boiling water as possible, and the receptacle is filled entirely with cold water. On the day following, allow the same to run in slowly during a period of three-fourths of an hour, stir till evening, allow to settle for 2 days, draw off and filter.

English Pink.—

Quercitron bark 200 parts

Lime 10 parts

Alum 10 parts

Terra alba 300 parts

Whiting 200 parts

Sugar of lead 7 parts

Put the bark into a tub, slake lime in another tub, and add the clear limewater to wash the bark; repeat this 3 times, letting the bark stand in each water 24 hours. Run liquor into the tub below and add the terra alba and whiting; wash well in the top tub and run into liquor below through a hair sieve, stirring well.

Dissolve the sugar of lead in warm water and pour gently into the tub, stirring all the time; then dissolve the alum and run in while stirring; press slightly, drop, and dry as required.

Dutch Pink.—

I.— Quercitron bark 200 parts

Lime 20 parts

Alum 20 parts

Whiting 100 parts

Terra alba 200 parts

White sugar of lead 10 parts

II.— Quercitron bark 300 parts

Lime 10 parts

Alum 10 parts

Terra alba 400 parts

Whiting 100 parts

Sugar of lead 7 parts

Put the bark into a tub with cold water, slake 28 pounds of lime, and add the limewater to the bark. (This draws all the color out of the wood.) Dissolve alum in water and run it into bark liquor. The alum solution must be just warm. Dissolve sugar of lead and add it to above, and afterwards add the terra alba and whiting. The product should now be in a pulp, and must be dropped and dried as required.

Rose Pink.—

I.—Light.

Sapan wood 100 parts

Lima 100 parts

Paris white 200 parts

Alum 210 parts

II.—Deep.

Sapan wood 300 parts

Lima 300 parts

Terra alba 400 parts

Paris white 120 parts

Lime 12 parts

Alum 200 parts

III.— Sapan wood 200 parts

Alum 104 parts

Whiting 124 parts

Boil the woods together in 4 waters and let the products stand until cold; wash in the whiting and terra alba through a hair sieve, and afterwards run in the alum. If a deep color is required slake 12 pounds lime and run it in at the last through a hair sieve. Let the alum be just warm or it will show in the pink.

Dyes, Colors, Etc., For Textile Goods:

Aniline Black.

—This black is produced by carefully oxidizing aniline hydrochloride. The exact stage of oxidation must be carefully regulated or the product will be a different body (quinone). There are several suitable oxidizing agents, such as chromic acid, potassic bichromate, ferrocyanide of potassium, etc., but one of the easiest to manipulate is potassic chlorate, which by reacting on copper sulphate produces potassic sulphate and copper chlorate. This is easily decomposed, its solution giving off gases at 60° F. which consist essentially of chloride anhydrate. But one of the most useful agents for the production of aniline black is vanadate of ammonia, 1 part of which will do the work of 4,000 parts of copper. Many other salts besides copper may be used for producing aniline black, but the following method is one of the best to follow in making this dye:

Aniline hydrochloride 40 parts

Potassic chlorate 20 parts

Copper sulphate 40 parts

Chloride of ammonia (sal ammoniac) 16 parts

Warm water at 60° F 500 parts

After warming a few minutes the mass froths up. The vapor should not be inhaled. Then set aside, and if the mass is not totally black in a few hours, again heat to 60° F., and expose to the air for a few days, and finally wash away all the soluble salts and the black is fit for use.

Aniline Black Substitutes.

—I.—Make a solution of

Aniline (fluid measure) 30 parts

Toluidine (by weight) 10 parts

Pure hydrochloric acid, B. P. (fluid measure) 60 parts

Soluble gum arabic (fluid measure) 60 parts

Dissolve the toluidine in the aniline and add the acid, and finally the mucilage.

II.—Mix together at gentle heat:

Starch paste 13 quarts

Potassic chlorate 350 scruples

Sulphate of copper 300 scruples

Sal ammoniac 300 scruples

Aniline hydrochloride 800 scruples

Add 5 per cent of alizarine oil, and then steep it for 2 hours in the dye bath of red liquor of 2 / 2° Tw. Dye in a bath made up of / 2 ounce of rose bengal and 1 / 2 ounces of red liquor to every 70 ounces of cotton fabric dyed, first entering the fabric at 112° F., and raising it to 140° F., working for 1 hour, or until the desirable shade is obtained; then rinse and dry.

Blush Pink On Cotton Textile.

—Rose bengal or fast pink will give this shade. The mordant to use is a 5 per cent solution of stannate of soda and another 5 per cent solution of alum.

Dissolve in a vessel (a) 8 / 2 parts of chloride of copper in 30 parts of water, and then add 10 parts chloride of sodium and 9 / 2 parts liquid ammonia.

In a second vessel dissolve (b) 30 parts aniline hydrochlorate in 20 parts of water, and add 20 parts of a solution of gum arabic prepared by dissolving 1 part of gum in 2 parts of water.

Finally mix 1 part of a with 4 parts of b; expose the mixture to the air for a few days to develop from a greenish to a black color. Dilute for use, or else dry the thick compound to a powder.

If new liquor is used as the mordant, mix 1 part of this with 4 parts of water, and after working the fabric for 1 to 2 hours in the cold liquor, wring or squeeze it out and dry; before working it in the dye liquor, thoroughly wet the fabric by rinsing it in hot water at a spring boil; then cool by washing in the dye bath until the shade desired is attained, and again rinse and dry.

The red liquor or acetate of aluminum may be made by dissolving 13 ounces of alum in 69 ounces of water and mixing this with a solution made by dissolving 7 / 2 ounces of acetate of lime, also dissolved in 69 ounces of water. Stir well, allow it to settle, and filter or decanter {280} off the clear fluid for use, and use this mixture 2 / 2° Tw.

The fabric is first put into the stannate of soda mordant for a few minutes, then wrung out and put into the alum mordant for about the same time; then it is again wrung out and entered in the dye bath at 120° F. and dyed to shade desired, and afterwards rinsed in cold water and dried.

The dye bath is made of / 4 ounce of rose bengal per gallon of water. If fast pink is the dye used, the mordant used would be Turkey red oil and red liquor. Use 8 ounces of Turkey red oil per gallon of water. Put the fabric into this, then wring out the textile and work in red liquor of 7° Tw. for about 2 hours, then wring out and dye in a separate bath made up of eosine, or fast pink, in water in which a little alum has been dissolved.

To Dye Woolen Yarns, etc., Various Shades of Magenta.

—To prepare the dye bath dissolve 1 pound of roseine in 15 gallons of water. For a concentrated solution use only 10 gallons of water, while if a very much concentrated color is needed, dissolve the dye in methylated spirit of wine, and dilute this spirituous tincture with an equal quantity of water.

No mordant is required in using this color in dyeing woolen goods. The dyeing operation consists simply in putting the goods into the dye bath at 190° F. and working them therein until the desired shade is obtained, then rinsing in cold water and drying.

If the water used in preparing the dye is at all alkaline, make use of the acid roseine dissolved in water in which a little sulphuric acid has been mixed, and work, gradually raising to the boiling point, and keep up the temperature for 30 minutes, or according to the shade desired. Put about 20 per cent sulphate of soda into the dye bath.

Maroon Dye For Woolens.

—To prepare the dye bath, dissolve about 1 pound of maroon dye in boiling water, with or without the addition of methylated spirit of wine. For dark shades dissolve in boiling water, only slightly acidulated with hydrochloric acid, and filter before use. No mordant is required with this dye when dyeing wool, but for the bright shade a little curd soap may be dissolved in the dye bath before proceeding to dye the wool, while for the dark shade it is best to put in a little acetate of soda. To use the dye, first dye in a weak bath and gradually strengthen it until the desired shade is obtained, at the same time gradually increasing the temperature until just below the boiling point.

To Dye Woolens With Blue De Lyons.

—Dissolve 8 ounces of blue dye in 1 gallon of methylated spirit, which has been slightly soured with sulphuric acid, and boil the solution over a water bath until it is perfectly clear. To prepare the dye bath, add more or less of the spirituous tincture to a 10- or 15-gallon dye bath of water, which has been slightly soured with sulphuric acid.

Rich Orange On Woolen.

—Dissolve 1 pound of phosphine in 15 gallons of boiling water, and stir the fluid until the acid has dissolved. No mordant is required to dye wool. First work the goods about in a weak solution, and finally in one of full strength, to which a little acetate of soda has been added. Keep up the temperature to just below the boiling point while working the goods in the dye bath.

Dyeing Silk Or Cotton Fabrics With Aniline Dyes:

Aniline Blue On Cotton.

—Prepare a dye bath by dissolving 1 pound of aniline blue (soluble in spirit) in 10 gallons of water, and set it aside to settle. Meanwhile prepare a mordant while boiling 35 ounces of sumac (or 5 / 2 ounces tannic acid in 30 gallons of water) and then dissolve therein 17 ounces of curd soap. Boil up and filter. Put the cotton goods in the hot liquid and let them remain therein for 12 hours. Then wring them out and make up a dye bath of 2 / 2° Tw. with red liquor. Add dye color according to the shade desired. Put in the goods and work them until the color is correct, keeping the temperature at the boiling point.

To Dye Silk A Delicate Greenish Yellow.

—Dissolve 2 ounces of citronine in 1 gallon of methylated spirit and keep the solution hot over a water bath until perfectly clear.

To prepare silk fabrics, wash them in a weak soap liquor that has been just sweetened (i. e., its alkalinity turned to a slight sourness) with a little sulphuric acid. Work the goods until dyed to shade, and then rinse them in cold water that has been slightly acidulated with acetic, tartaric, or citric acid.

To Dye Cotton Dark Brown.

—Prepare a mordant bath of 10 pounds of catechu, 2 pounds of logwood extract, and / 4 pound magenta (roseine), and bring to a boil; work the goods therein for 3 hours at that temperature; then put {281} into a fresh dye bath made up of 3 pounds of bichromate of potash and 2 pounds of sal soda, and dye to shade. These proportions are for a dye bath to dye 100 pounds of cotton goods at a time.

To Dye Silk Peacock Blue.

—Make up a dye bath by putting 1 pint of sulphuric acid at 170° Tw., and 10 ounces of methylin blue crystal dye liquor of 120° to 160° Tw., with a dye bath that will hold 80 pounds of goods. Put in the silk at 130° F., and raise to 140° F., and work up to shade required.

To Dye Felt Goods.

—Owing to this material being composed of animal and vegetable fiber it is not an easy matter always to produce evenness of shade. The best process to insure success is to steep well the felt in an acid bath of from 6° to 12° Bé., and then wash away all traces of acid. Some dyers make the fulling stock the medium of conveying the dye, while others partially dye before fulling, or else dye after that process.

The fulling stock for 72 ounces of beaver consists of a mixture of

Black lead or plumbago 16 ounces

Venetian red 48 ounces

Indigo extract (fluid) 5 ounces

Ordinary Drab.—

Common plumbago 12 ounces

Best plumbago 12 ounces

Archil extract (fluid) 15 ounces

Indigo extract 10 ounces

Mix into fluid paste with water and add sulphuric acid at 30° Tw. For the dye liquor make a boiling-hot solution of the aniline dye and allow it to cool; then put into an earthenware vessel holding water and heat to 83° F., and add sufficient dye liquor to give the quantity of felt the desired shade. First moisten well the felted matter (or the hair, if dyed before felting) with water, and then work it about in the above dye bath at 140° F. To deepen the shade, add more dye liquor, lifting out the material to be dyed before adding the fresh dye liquor, so that it can be well stirred up and thoroughly mixed with the exhausted bath.

Brown Shades.

—Bismarck brown will give good results, particularly if the dyed goods are afterwards steeped or passed through a weak solution (pale straw color) of bichromate of potash. This will give a substantial look to the color. Any of the aniline colors suitable for cotton or wool, or those suited for mixed cotton and wool goods may be used.

Blue.

—Use either China blue, dense ferry blue, or serge blue, first making the material acid before dyeing.

Green.

—Use brilliant green and have the material neutral, i. e., neither acid nor alkali; or else steep in a bath of sumac before dyeing.

Plum Color.

—Use maroon (neutral or acid) and work in an acid bath or else sumac.

Black.

—Use negrosin in an acid bath, or else mordant in two salts and dye slightly acid.

Soluble Blue, Ball Blue, Etc.

—A soluble blue has for many years been readily obtainable in commerce which is similar in appearance to Prussian blue, but, unlike the latter, is freely soluble in water. This blue is said to be potassium ferri-ferrocyanide.

To prepare instead of buying it ready made, gradually add to a boiling solution of potassium ferricyanide (red prussiate of potash) an equivalent quantity of hot solution of ferrous sulphate, boiling for 2 hours and washing the precipitate on a filter until the washings assume a dark-blue color. The moist precipitate can at once be dissolved by the further addition of a sufficient quantity of water. About 64 parts of the iron salt is necessary to convert 100 parts of the potassium salt into the blue compound.

If the blue is to be sent out in the liquid form, it is desirable that the solution should be a perfect one. To attain that end the water employed should be free from mineral substances, and it is best to filter the solution through several thicknesses of fine cotton cloth before bottling; or if made in large quantities this method may be modified by allowing it to stand some days to settle, when the top portion can be siphoned off for use, the bottom only requiring filtration.

The ball blue sold for laundry use consists of ultramarine. Balls or tablets of this substance are formed by mixing it with glucose or glucose and dextrin, and pressing into shape. When glucose alone is used, the product has a tendency to become soft on keeping, which tendency may be counteracted by a proper proportion of dextrin. Bicarbonate of sodium is added as a filler to cheapen the product, the quantity used and the quality of the ultramarine employed being both regulated by the price at which the product is to sell.

New Production Of Indigo.

—Forty parts of a freshly prepared ammonium sulphide solution containing 10 per cent {282} of hydrogen sulphide are made to flow quickly and with constant stirring into a heated solution of 20 parts of isatine anilide in 60 parts of alcohol. With spontaneous heating and temporary green and blue coloration, an immediate separation of indigo in small crystalline needles of a faint copper luster takes place. Boil for a short time, whereupon the indigo is filtered off, rewashed with alcohol, and dried.

To Dye Feathers.

—A prerequisite to the dyeing of feathers appears to be softening them, which is sometimes accomplished by soaking them in warm water, and sometimes an alkali, such as ammonium or sodium carbonate, is added. This latter method would apparently be preferable on account of the removal of any greasy matter that may be present.

When so prepared the feathers may be dyed by immersion in any dye liquor. An old-time recipe for black is immersion in a bath of ferric nitrate suitably diluted with water, and then in an infusion of equal parts of logwood and quercitron. Doubtless an aniline dye would prove equally efficient and would be less troublesome to use.

After dyeing, feathers are dipped in an emulsion formed by agitating any bland fixed oil with water containing a little potassium carbonate, and are then dried by gently swinging them in warm air. This operation gives the gloss.

Curling where required is effected by slightly warming the feathers before a fire, and then stroking with a blunt metallic edge, as the back of a knife. A certain amount of manual dexterity is necessary to carry the whole process to a successful ending.

DYES FOR FOOD: See Foods.

DYES FOR LEATHER: See Leather.

DYE STAINS, THEIR REMOVAL FROM THE SKIN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

DYNAMITE: See Explosives.

EARTHENWARE: See Ceramics.

EAU DE QUININE: See Hair Preparations.

EBONY: See Wood.

EBONY LACQUER: See Lacquers.

Eczema Dusting Powder for Children.

Starch, French chalk, lycopodium, of each, 40 parts; bismuth subnitrate, 2 parts; salicylic acid, 2 parts; menthol, 1 part. Apply freely to the affected parts.

Eggs

The age of eggs may be approximately judged by taking advantage of the fact that as they grow old their density decreases through evaporation of moisture. According to Siebel, a new-laid egg placed in a vessel of brine made in the proportion of 2 ounces of salt to 1 pint of water, will at once sink to the bottom. An egg 1 day old will sink below the surface, but not to the bottom, while one 3 days old will swim just immersed in the liquid. If more than 3 days old the egg will float on the surface, the amount of shell exposed increasing with age; and if 2 weeks old, only a little of the shell will dip in the liquid.

The New York State Experiment Station studied the changes in the specific gravity of the eggs on keeping and found that on an average fresh eggs had a specific gravity of 1.090; after they were 10 days old, of 1.072; after 20 days, of 1.053; and after 30 days, of 1.035. The test was not continued further. The changes in specific gravity correspond to the changes in water content. When eggs are kept they continually lose water by evaporation through the pores in the shell. After 10 days the average loss was found to be 1.60 per cent of the total water present in the egg when perfectly fresh; after 20 days, 3.16 per cent; and after 30 days, 5 per cent. The average temperature of the room where the eggs were kept was 63.8° F. The evaporation was found to increase somewhat with increased temperature. None of the eggs used in the 30-day test spoiled.

Fresh eggs are preserved in a number of ways which may, for convenience, be grouped under two general classes: (1) Use of low temperature, i. e., cold storage; and (2) excluding the air by coating, covering, or immersing the eggs, some material or solution being used which may or may not be a germicide. The two methods are often combined. The {283} first method owes its value to the fact that microörganisms, like larger forms of plant life, will not grow below a certain temperature, the necessary degree of cold varying with the species. So far as experiment shows, it is impossible to kill these minute plants, popularly called “bacteria” or “germs,” by any degree of cold; and so, very low temperature is unnecessary for preserving eggs, even if it were not undesirable for other reasons, such as injury by freezing and increased cost. According to a report of the Canadian commission of agriculture and dairying:

Eggs are sometimes removed from the shells and stored in bulk, usually on a commercial scale, in cans containing about 50 pounds each. The temperature recommended is about 30° F., or a little below freezing, and it is said they will keep any desired length of time. They must be used soon after they have been removed from storage and have been thawed.

Water glass or soluble glass is the popular name for potassium silicate, or sodium silicate, the commercial article often being a mixture of the two. The commercial water glass is used for preserving eggs, as it is much cheaper than the chemically pure article which is required for many scientific purposes. Water glass is commonly sold in two forms, a syrup-thick liquid of about the consistency of molasses, and a powder. The thick syrup, the form perhaps most usually seen, is sometimes sold wholesale as low as 1 / 4 cents per pound in carboy lots. The retail price varies, though 10 cents per pound, according to the North Dakota Experiment Station, seems to be the price commonly asked. According to the results obtained at this station a solution of the desired strength for preserving eggs may be made by dissolving 1 part of the syrup-thick water glass in 10 parts, by measure, of water. If the water-glass powder is used, less is required for a given quantity of water. Much of the water glass offered for sale is very alkaline. Such material should not be used, as the eggs preserved in it will not keep well. Only pure water should be used in making the solution, and it is best to boil it and cool it before mixing with the water glass.

The solution should be carefully poured over the eggs packed in a suitable vessel, which must be clean and sweet, and if wooden kegs or barrels are used they should be thoroughly scalded before packing the eggs in them. The packed eggs should be stored in a cool place. If they are placed where it is too warm, silicate deposits on the shell and the eggs do not keep well. The North Dakota Experiment Station found it best not to wash the eggs before packing, as this removes the natural mucilaginous coating on the outside of the shell. The station states that 1 gallon of the solution is sufficient for 50 dozen eggs if they are properly packed.

It is, perhaps, too much to expect that eggs packed in any way will be just as satisfactory for table use as the fresh article. The opinion seems to be, however, that those preserved with water glass are superior to most of those preserved otherwise. The shells of eggs preserved in water glass are apt to crack in boiling. It is stated that this may be prevented by puncturing the blunt end of the egg with a pin before putting it into the water.

To Discover The Age Of Eggs.

—The most reliable method of arriving at the age of hens’ eggs is that by specific gravity. Make a solution of cooking salt (sodium chloride) in rain or distilled water, of about one part of salt to two parts of water, and in this place the eggs to be tested. A perfectly fresh egg (of from 1 to 36 hours old) will sink completely, lying horizontally on the bottom of the vessel; when from two to three days old, the egg also sinks, but not to the bottom, remaining just below the surface of the water, with a slight tendency of the large end to rise. In eggs of four or five days old this tendency of the large end to rise becomes more marked, and it increases from day to day, until at the end of the fifth day the long axis of the egg (an imaginary line drawn through the center lengthwise) will stand at an angle of 20° from the perpendicular. This angle is increased daily, until at the end of the eighth day it is at about 45°; on the fourteenth day it is 60°; on the twenty-first day it is 75°, while at the end of 4 weeks the egg stands perfectly upright in the liquid, the point or small end downward.

This action is based on the fact that the air cavity in the big end of the egg increases in size and capacity, from day to day, as the egg grows older. An apparatus (originally devised by a German poultry fancier) based on this principle, and by means of which the age of an egg maintained at ordinary temperature may be told approximately to within a day, is made by placing a scale of degrees, drawn from O° to 90° (the latter representing the perpendicular) behind the vessel {284} containing the solution, and observing the angle made by the axis of the egg with the perpendicular line. This gives the age of the egg with great accuracy.

Weights Of Eggs.

—The following table shows the variation in weight between eggs of the same family of chickens and of the comparative value of the product of different kinds of fowls:

Weight of

Whole Eggs,
Grains Shell,
Grains Net.

Common hen, small 635.60 84.86 550.54

Common hen, mean 738.35 92.58 645.77

Common hen, large 802.36 93.25 709.11

Italian hen 840.00 92.50 747.50

Houdan 956.60 93.50 853.10

La Flesche 926.50 94.25 835.25

Brahma 1,025.50 114.86 910.64

From this it will be seen that the Houdans and Brahmas are the most profitable producers, as far as food value of the product is concerned—provided, of course, they are equally prolific with the ordinary fowl.

Another calculation is the number of eggs to the pound, of the various weights. This is as follows:

Small ordinary eggs (635 grains) 12.20 to pound

Large ordinary eggs (802 grains) 9.25 to pound

Houdan eggs 8.0 to pound

Brahma, mean 7.4 to pound

Brahma, large 7.1 to pound

Dried Yolk Of Egg.

—To prepare this, the yolks of eggs, separated from the whites, are thoroughly mixed with / 3 their weight of water. The resulting emulsion is strained and evaporated under reduced pressure at a temperature of 87° to 122° F., to a paste. The latter is further dried over quicklime or a similar absorbent of moisture, at a temperature of 77° to 86° F., and ground to a fine powder.

Egg Oil.—

Yolks of eggs (about 250) 5.0 parts

Distilled water 0.3 parts

Beat this together and heat the mass with constant stirring in a dish on the water bath until it thickens and a sample exhibits oil upon pressing between the fingers. Squeeze out between hot plates, mix the turbid oil obtained with 0.05 parts of dehydrated Glauber’s salt, shake repeatedly, and finally allow to settle. The oil, which must be decanted clear from the sediment, gives a yield of at least 0.5 parts of egg oil.

Artificial Egg Oil.—

Yellow beeswax 0.2 parts

Cacao oil 0.5 parts

Melt on the water bath and gradually add 9 parts of olive oil.

Egg Powder.—

Sodium bicarbonate 8 ounces

Tartaric acid 3 ounces

Cream tartar 5 ounces

Turmeric, powdered 3 drachms

Ground rice 16 ounces

Mix and pass through a fine sieve. One teaspoonful to a dessertspoonful (according to article to be made), to be mixed with each half pound of flour.

The Preservation Of Eggs.