Henley’s Book of Recipes (part 2)

Pens have been manufactured, consisting of several sections, each of a different alloy, suited to the special purpose of the part. Thus, for instance, the sides of the pen are made of the elastic composition just described; the upper part is of an alloy of silver and platinum; and the point is made either of minute cut rubies or of an extremely hard alloy of osmium and iridium, joined to the body of the pen by melting in the flame of the oxyhydrogen blowpipe. The price of such pens, made of expensive materials and at the cost of great labor, is of course exceedingly high, but their excellent qualities repay the extra expense. They are not in the least affected by any kind of ink, are most durable, and can be used constantly for years without showing any signs of wear.

The great hardness and resistance to the atmosphere of Cooper’s alloys make them very suitable for manufacturing {75} mathematical instruments where great precision is required. It can scarcely be calculated how long a chronometer, for instance, whose wheels are constructed of this alloy, will run before showing any irregularities due to wear. In the construction of such instruments, the price of the material is not to be taken into account, since the cost of the labor in their manufacture so far exceeds this.

Pewter.

This is an alloy of tin and lead only, or of tin with antimony and copper. The first is properly called pewter. Three varieties are known in trade:

I (Plate Pewter).—From tin, 79 per cent; antimony, 7 per cent; bismuth and copper, of each 2 per cent; fused together. Used to make plates, teapots, etc. Takes a fine polish.

II (Triple Pewter).—From tin, 79 per cent; antimony, 15 per cent; lead, 6 per cent; as the last. Used for minor articles, syringes, toys, etc.

III (Ley Pewter).—From tin, 80 per cent; lead, 20 per cent. Used for measures, inkstands, etc.

According to the report of a French commission, pewter containing more than 18 parts of lead to 82 parts of tin is unsafe for measures for wine and similar liquors, and, indeed, for any other utensils exposed to contact with food or beverages. The legal specific gravity of pewter in France is 7.764; if it be greater, it contains an excess of lead, and is liable to prove poisonous. The proportions of these metals may be approximately determined from the specific gravity; but correctly only by an assay for the purpose.

Silver Alloys:

Aluminum Silver.

—Aluminum and silver form beautiful white alloys which are considerably harder than pure aluminum, and take a very high polish. They have the advantage over copper alloys of being unchanged by exposure to the air, and of retaining their white color.

The properties of aluminum and silver alloys vary considerably according to the percentage of aluminum.

I.—An alloy of 100 parts of aluminum and 5 parts of silver is very similar to pure aluminum, but is harder and takes a finer polish.

II.—One hundred and sixty-nine parts of aluminum and 5 of silver make an elastic alloy, recommended for watch springs and dessert knives.

III.—An alloy of equal parts of silver and aluminum is as hard as bronze.

IV.—Five parts of aluminum and 1 part of silver make an alloy that is easily worked.

V.—Also aluminum, 3 parts, and silver, 1 part.

VI. Tiers-Argent.—This alloy is prepared chiefly in Paris, and used for the manufacture of various utensils. As indicated by its name (one-third silver), it consists of 33.33 parts of silver and 66.66 parts of aluminum. Its advantages over silver consist in its lower price and greater hardness; it can also be stamped and engraved more easily than the alloys of copper and silver.

VII.—This is a hard alloy which has been found very useful for the operating levers of certain machines, such as the spacing lever of a typewriter. The metal now generally used for this purpose by the various typewriter companies is “aluminum silver,” or “silver metal.” The proportions are given as follows:

Copper 57.00

Nickel 20.00

Zinc 20.00

Aluminum 3.00

This alloy when used on typewriting machines is nickel-plated for the sake of the first appearance, but so far as corrosion is concerned, nickeling is unnecessary. The alloy is stiff and strong and cannot be bent to any extent without breaking, especially if the percentage of aluminum is increased to 3.5 per cent; it casts free from pinholes and blowholes; the liquid metal completely fills the mold, giving sharp, clean castings, true to pattern; its cost is not greater than brass; its color is silver white, and its hardness makes it susceptible to a high polish.

Arsenic.

—Alloys which contain small quantities of arsenic are very ductile, have a beautiful white color, and were formerly used in England in the manufacture of tableware. They are not, however, suitable for this purpose, on account of the poisonous character of the arsenic. They are composed usually of 49 parts of silver, 49 of copper, and 2 of arsenic.

China Silver.

—Copper, 65.24 per cent; tin, 19.52 per cent; nickel, 13.00 per cent; silver, 2.05 per cent.

Copper-silver.

—When silver is alloyed with copper only one proportion is known which will give a uniform casting. The proportion is 72 per cent silver to 28 per cent copper. With more silver than 72 per cent the center of a cast bar will be {76} richer than the outside, which chills first; while with a less percentage than 72 per cent the center of the bar will be poorer and the outside richer than the average. This characteristic of silver-copper alloys is known to metallurgists as “segregation.”

When nickel is added to the silver and copper, several good alloys may be formed, as the following French compositions:

I II III

Silver 33 40 20

Copper 37–42 30–40 45–55

Nickel 25–30 20–30 25–35

The whitening of alloys of silver and copper is best accomplished by annealing the alloy until it turns black on the surface. Cool in a mixture of 20 parts, by weight, of concentrated sulphuric acid to 1,000 parts of distilled water and leave therein for some time. In place of the sulphuric acid, 40 parts of potassium bisulphate may be used per 1,000 parts of liquid. Repeat the process if necessary.

Copper, Silver, And Cadmium Alloys.

—Cadmium added to silver alloys gives great flexibility and ductility, without affecting the white color; these properties are valuable in the manufacture of silver-plated ware and wire. The proportions of the metals vary in these alloys. Some of the most important varieties are given below.

Silver Copper Cadmium

I. 980 15 5

II. 950 15 35

III. 900 18 82

IV. 860 20 180

V. 666 25 309

VI. 667 50 284

VII. 500 50 450

In preparing these alloys, the great volatility of cadmium must be taken into account. It is customary to prepare first the alloy of silver and copper, and add the cadmium, which, as in the case of the alloys of silver and zinc, must be wrapped in paper. After putting it in, the mass is quickly stirred, and the alloy poured immediately into the molds. This is the surest way to prevent the volatilization of the cadmium.

Silver, Copper, Nickel, And Zinc Alloys.

—These alloys, from the metals contained in them, may be characterized as argentan or German silver with a certain percentage of silver. They have been used for making small coins, as in the older coins of Switzerland. Being quite hard, they have the advantage of wearing well, but soon lose their beautiful white color and take on a disagreeable shade of yellow, like poor brass. The silver contained in them can be regained only by a laborious process, which is a great drawback to their use in coinage. The composition of the Swiss fractional coins is as follows:

20 centimes 10 centimes 5 centimes

Silver 15 10 5

Copper 50 55 60

Nickel 25 25 25

Zinc 10 10 10

Mousset’s Alloy.

—Copper, 59.06; silver, 27.56; zinc, 9.57; nickel, 3.42. This alloy is yellowish with a reddish tinge, but white on the fractured surface. It ranks next after Argent-Ruolz, which also contains sometimes certain quantities of zinc, and in this case may be classed together with the alloy just described. The following alloys can be rolled into sheet or drawn into wire:

I II III

Silver 33.3 34 40.0

Copper 41.8 42 44.6

Nickel 8.6 8 4.6

Zinc 16.3 16 10.8

Japanese (Gray) Silver.

—An alloy is prepared in Japan which consists of equal parts of copper and silver, and which is given a beautiful gray color by boiling in a solution of alum, to which copper sulphate and verdigris are added. The so-called “mokum,” also a Japanese alloy, is prepared by placing thin plates of gold, silver, copper, and the alloy just described over each other and stretching them under the hammer. The cross sections of the thin plates obtained in this way show the colors of the different metals, which give them a peculiar striped appearance. Mokum is principally used for decorations upon gold and silver articles.

Silver-zinc.

—Silver and zinc have great affinity for each other, and alloys of these two metals are therefore easily made. The required quantity of zinc, wrapped in paper, is thrown into the melted and strongly heated silver, the mass is thoroughly stirred with an iron rod, and at once poured out into molds. Alloys of silver and zinc can be obtained which are both ductile and flexible. An alloy consisting of 2 parts of zinc and 1 of silver closely resembles silver in color, and is quite ductile. With a larger proportion of zinc the alloy becomes brittle. In preparing the alloy, a somewhat larger quantity of zinc must be taken than the {77} finished alloy is intended to contain, as a small amount always volatilizes.

Imitation Silver Alloys.

—There are a number of alloys, composed of different metals, which resemble silver, and may be briefly mentioned here.

I.—Warne’s metal is composed of tin 10 parts, bismuth 7, and cobalt 3. It is white, fine-grained, but quite difficult to fuse.

II.—Tonca’s metal contains copper 5 parts, nickel 4, tin 1, lead 1, iron 1, zinc 1, antimony 1. It is hard, difficult to fuse, not very ductile, and cannot be recommended.

III.—Trabuk metal contains tin 87.5, nickel 5.5, antimony 5, bismuth 5.

IV.—Tourun-Leonard’s metal is composed of 500 parts of tin and 64 of bell metal.

V.—Silveroid is an alloy of copper, nickel, tin, zinc, and lead.

VI.—Minargent. Copper, 100 parts; nickel, 70 parts; tungsten, 5 parts; aluminum, 1 part.

VII.—Nickel, 23 parts; aluminum, 5 parts; copper, 5 parts; iron, 65 parts; tungsten, 4 parts.

VIII.—Argasoid. Tin, 4.035; lead, 3.544; copper, 55.780; nickel, 13.406; zinc, 23.198; iron, trace.

SOLDERS: See Solders.

Steel Alloys: See Also Steel.

For Locomotive Cylinders.

—This mixture consists of 20 per cent steel castings, old steel springs, etc.; 20 per cent No. 2 coke iron, and 60 per cent scrap. From this it is stated a good solid metal can be obtained, the castings being free from honeycombing, and finishing better than the ordinary cast-iron mixture, over which it has the advantage of 24 per cent greater strength. Its constituents are: Silicon, 1.51; manganese, 0.33; phosphorus, 0.65; sulphur, 0.068; combined carbon, 0.62; graphite, 2.45.

Nickel steel is composed of nickel 36 per cent, steel 64 per cent.

Tungsten steel is crucible steel with 5 to 12 per cent tungsten.

Stereotype Metal.

Lead 2 parts

Tin 3 parts

Bismuth 5 parts

The melting point of this alloy is 196° F. The alloy is rather costly because of the amount of bismuth which it contains. The following mixtures are cheaper:

I II III IV

Tin 1 3 1 2

Lead 1 5 1.5 2

Bismuth 2 8 3 5

Antimony — — — 1

Tin Alloys:

Alloys For Dentists’ Molds And Dies.

—I.—Very hard. Tin, 16 parts; antimony, 1 part; zinc, 1 part.

II.—Softer than the former. Tin, 8 parts; zinc, 1 part; antimony, 1 part.

III.—Very hard. Tin, 12 parts; antimony, 2 parts; copper, 1 part.

Cadmium Alloy, About The Hardness Of Zinc.

—Tin, 10 parts; antimony, 1 part; cadmium, 1 part.

Tin-lead.

—Tin is one of those metals which is not at all susceptible to the action of acids, while lead, on the other hand, is very easily attacked by them. In such alloys, consequently, used for cooking utensils, the amount of lead must be limited, and should properly not exceed 10 or 15 per cent; but cases have been known in which the so-called tin contained a third part, by weight, of lead.

Alloys containing from 10 to 15 per cent of lead have a beautiful white color, are considerably harder than pure tin, and much cheaper. Many alloys of tin and lead are very lustrous, and are used for stage jewelry and mirrors for reflecting the light of lamps, etc. An especially brilliant alloy is called “Fahlun brilliants.” It is used for stage jewelry, and consists of 29 parts of tin and 19 of lead. It is poured into molds faceted in the same way as diamonds, and when seen by artificial light, the effect is that of diamonds. Other alloys of tin and lead are employed in the manufacture of toys. These must fill the molds well, and must also be cheap, and therefore as much as 50 per cent of lead is used. Toys can also be made from type metal, which is even cheaper than the alloys of tin and lead, but has the disadvantage of readily breaking if the articles are sharply bent. The alloys of tin and lead give very good castings, if sharp iron or brass molds are used.

Lead 19 parts

Tin 29 parts

This alloy is very bright and possesses a permanent sheen. It is well adapted for the making of artificial gems for stage use. It is customary in carrying out the process to start with two parts of tin and one part of lead. Tin is added until a sample drop which is allowed to fall upon an iron plate forms a mirror. The artificial gems are produced by {78} dipping into the molten alloy pieces of glass cut to the proper shape. The tin coating of metal which adheres to the glass cools rapidly and adheres tenaciously. Outwardly these artificial gems appear rough and gray, but inwardly they are highly reflective and quite deceptive when seen in artificial light.

If the reflective surfaces be coated with red, blue, or green aniline, various colored effects can be obtained. Instead of fragile glass the gems may be produced by means of well-polished pieces of steel or bronze.

Other Tin-lead Alloys.

—Percentage of lead and specific gravity.

P. C. S. G. P. C. S. G.

0 7.290 28 8.105

1 7.316 29 8.137

2 7.342 30 8.169

3 7.369 31 8.202

4 7.396 32 8.235

5 7.423 33 8.268

6 7.450 34 8.302

7 7.477 35 8.336

8 7.505 36 8.379

9 7.533 37 8.405

10 7.562 38 8.440

11 7.590 39 8.476

12 7.619 40 8.512

13 7.648 41 8.548

14 7.677 42 8.584

15 7.706 43 8.621

16 7.735 44 8.658

17 7.764 45 8.695

18 7.794 46 8.732

19 7.824 47 8.770

20 7.854 48 8.808

21 7.885 49 8.846

22 7.916 50 8.884

23 7.947 60 9.299

24 7.978 70 9.736

25 8.009 80 10.225

26 8.041 90 10.767

27 8.073 100 11.370

Tin Statuettes, Buttons, Etc.—

I.— Tin 4 parts

Lead 3 parts

This is a very soft solder which sharply reproduces all details.

Another easily fusible alloy but somewhat harder, is the following:

II.— Tin. 8 parts

Lead 6 parts

Antimony 0.5 part

Miscellaneous Tin Alloys.

—I.—Alger Metal.—Tin, 90 parts; antimony, 10 parts. This alloy is suitable as a protector.

II. Argentine Metal.—Tin, 85.5 per cent; antimony, 14.5 per cent.

III.—Ashberry metal is composed of 78 to 82 parts of tin, 16 to 20 of antimony, 2 to 3 of copper.

IV. Quen’s Metal.—Tin, 9 parts; lead, 1 part; antimony, 1 part; bismuth, 1 part.

Type Metal.

—An alloy which is to serve for type metal must be readily cast, fill out the molds sharply, and be as hard as possible. It is difficult to satisfy all these requirements, but an alloy of antimony and lead answers the purpose best. At the present day there are a great many formulas for type metal in which other metals besides lead and antimony are used, either to make the alloy more readily fusible, as in the case of additions of bismuth, or to give it greater power of resistance, the latter being of especial importance for types that are subjected to constant use. Copper and iron have been recommended for this purpose, but the fusibility of the alloys is greatly impaired by these, and the manufacture of the types is consequently more difficult than with an alloy of lead and antimony alone. In the following table some alloys suitable for casting type are given:

Lead Antimony Copper Bismuth Zinc Tin Nickel

I 3 1 — — — — —

II 5 1 — — — — —

III 10 1 — — — — —

IV 10 2 — 1 — — —

V 70 18 2 — — 10 —

VI 60 20 — — — 20 —

VII 55 25 — — — 20 —

VIII 55 30 — — — 15 —

IX 100 30 8 2 — 20 8

X 6 — 4 — 90 — —

The French and English types contain a certain amount of tin, as shown by the following analyses:

English Types French
Types

I II III

Lead 69.2 61.3 55.0 55

Antimony 19.5 18.8 22.7 30

Tin 9.1 20.2 22.1 15

Copper 1.7 — — —

Ledebur gives the composition of type metal as follows:

I II III IV

Lead 75 60 80 82

Antimony 23 25 20 14.8

Tin 22 15 — 3.2

WATCHMAKERS’ ALLOYS: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

White Metals.

The so-called white metals are employed almost exclusively for bearings. (See Anti-friction Metals under Alloys.) In the technology of mechanics an accurate distinction is made between the different kinds of metals for bearings; and they may be classed in two groups, red brass and white metal. The {79} red-brass bearings are characterized by great hardness and power of resistance, and are principally used for bearings of heavily loaded and rapidly revolving axles. For the axles of large and heavy flywheels, revolving at great speed, bearings of red brass are preferable to white metal, though more expensive.

In recent years many machinists have found it advantageous to substitute for the soft alloys generally in use for bearings a metal almost as hard as the axle itself. Phosphor bronze (q. v.) is frequently employed for this purpose, as it can easily be made as hard as wrought or cast steel. In this case the metal is used in a thin layer, and serves only, as it were, to fill out the small interstices caused by wear on the axle and bearing, the latter being usually made of some rather easily fusible alloy of lead and tin. Such bearings are very durable, but expensive, and can only be used for large machines. For small machines, running gently and uniformly, white-metal bearings are preferred, and do excellent work, if the axle is not too heavily loaded. For axles which have a high rate of revolution, bearings made of quite hard metals are chosen, and with proper care—which, indeed, must be given to bearings of any material—they will last for a long time without needing repair.

WHITE METAL FOR BEARING.

Tin Antimony Zinc Iron Lead Copper

I German, light loads 85.00 10.00 — — — 5.00

II German, light loads 82.00 11.00 — — — 7.00

III German, light loads 80.00 12.00 — — — 8.00

IV German, light loads 76.00 17.00 — — — 7.00

V German, light loads 3.00 1.00 5.00 — 3.00 1.00

VI German, heavy loads 90.00 8.00 — — — 2.00

VII German, heavy loads 86.81 7.62 — — — 5.57

VIII English, heavy loads 17.47 — 76.14 — — 5.62

IX English, medium loads 76.70 15.50 — — — 7.80

X English, medium loads 72.00 26.00 — — — 2.00

XI For mills 15.00 — 40.00 — 42.00 3.00

XII For mills — 1.00 5.00 — 5.00 —

XIII For mills — 1.00 10.00 — 2.00 —

XIV Heavy axles 72.70 18.20 — — — 9.10

XV Heavy axles 38.00 6.00 47.00 — 4.00 1.00

XVI Rapidly revolving axles 17.00 77.00 — — — 6.00

XVII Very hard metal 55.00 — — 70.00 — 2.50

XVIII Very hard metal 12.00 82.00 2.00 — — 4.00

XIX Cheap metal 2.00 2.00 88.00 — — 8.00

XX Cheap metal 1.50 1.50 90.00 — — 7.00

Other white bearing metals are:

XXI.—Tin, 8.5; antimony, 10; copper, 5 parts.

XXII.—Tin, 42; antimony, 16; lead, 42 parts.

XXIII.—Tin, 72; antimony, 26; copper, 2 parts.

XXIV.—Tin, 81; antimony, 12.5; copper, 6.5 parts.

White Metals Based On Copper.—

I.—Copper, 65 parts; arsenic, 55 parts.

II.—Copper, 64 parts; arsenic, 50 parts.

III.—Copper, 10 parts; zinc, 20 parts; nickel, 30 parts.

IV.—Nickel, 70 parts; copper, 30 parts; zinc, 20 parts.

V.—Nickel, 60 parts; copper, 30 parts; zinc, 30 parts.

VI.—Copper, 8 parts; nickel, 4 parts; zinc, 4 parts.

VII.—Copper, 10 parts; nickel, 5 parts; zinc, 5 parts.

VIII.—Copper, 8 parts; nickel, 3 parts; zinc, 4 parts.

IX.—Copper, 50 parts; nickel, 25 parts; zinc, 25 parts.

X.—Copper, 55 parts; nickel, 24 parts; zinc, 21 parts.

XI.—Copper, 55 parts; nickel, 24 parts; zinc, 16 parts; iron, 2 parts; tin, 3 parts.

IX, X, and XI are suitable for tableware.

XII.—Copper, 67 parts, and arsenic, 53 parts.

XIII.—Copper, 63 parts, and arsenic, 57 parts.

XII and XIII are bright gray, unaffected by the temperature of boiling water; they are fusible at red heat.

White Metals Based On Platinum.—

I.—Platinum, 1 part; copper, 4 parts; or platinum, 1 / 2 parts; copper, 3 / 2 parts.

II.—Platinum, 10 parts; tin, 90 parts; or platinum, 8 parts; tin, 92 parts.

III.—Platinum, 7 parts; copper, 13 parts; tin, 80 parts.

IV.—Platinum, 2 parts; steel, 98 parts.

V.—Platinum, 2.5 parts; steel, 97.5 parts.

IV and V are for gun metal.

Miscellaneous White-metal Alloys.—

I.—For lining cross-head slides: Lead, 65 parts; antimony, 25 parts; copper, 10 parts. Some object to white metal containing lead or zinc. It has been found, however, that lead and zinc have properties of great use in these alloys.

II.—Tin, 85 parts; antimony, 7 / 2 parts; copper, 7 / 2 parts.

III.—Tin, 90 parts; copper, 3 parts; antimony, 7 parts. {80}

Zinc Alloys:

Bidery Metal.

—This is sometimes composed of 31 parts of zinc, 2 parts of copper, and 2 parts of lead; the whole is melted on a layer of rosin or wax to avoid oxidation. This metal is very resistive; it does not oxidize in air or moisture. It takes its name from the town of Bider, near Hyderabad (India), where it was prepared for the first time industrially for the manufacture of different utensils.

Other compositions of Indian Bidery metal (frequently imitated in England) are about as follows:

P.C. P.C. P.C.

Copper 3.5 11.4 16

Zinc 93.4 84.3 112

Tin — 1.4 2

Lead 3.1 2.9 4

Erhardt recommends the following as being both ductile and hard:

Zinc 89 to 93

Tin 9 to 6

Lead 2 to 4

Copper 2 to 4

The tin is first melted, and the lead, zinc, and copper added successively.

Zinc-nickel.

—Zinc, 90 parts; nickel, 10 parts. Used in powder form for painting and cloth printing purposes.

Platine For Dress Buttons.

—Copper, 43 parts; zinc, 57 parts.

Unclassified Alloys:

Alloys For Drawing Colors On Steel.

—Alloys of various composition are successfully used for drawing colors on steel. To draw to a straw color use 2 parts of lead and 1 part of tin, and melt in an iron ladle. Hold the steel piece to be drawn in the alloy as it melts and it will turn to straw color. This mixture melts at a temperature of about 437° F. For darker yellow use 9 parts of lead to 4 parts of tin, which melts at 458° F. For purple, use 3 parts of lead to 1 part of tin, the melting temperature being 482° F. For violet, use 9 parts of lead to 2 parts of tin, which melts at 494° F. Lead without any alloy will draw steel to a dark blue. The above apply to steel only since iron requires a somewhat greater heat and is more or less uncertain in handling.

Alloy For Pattern Letters And Figures.

—A good alloy for casting pattern letters and figures and similar small parts of brass, iron, or plaster molds, is made of lead 80 parts, and antimony 20 parts. A better alloy will be lead 70 parts, antimony and bismuth each 15 parts. To insure perfect work the molds should be quite hot by placing them over a Bunsen burner.

Alloy For Caliper And Gage-rod Castings.

—A mixture of 30 parts zinc to 70 parts aluminum gives a light and durable alloy for gage rods and caliper legs; the gage rods must be steel tipped, for the alloy is soft and wears away too rapidly for gage points.

Alloys For Small Casting Molds.

—Tin, 75 parts, and lead, 22 parts; or 75 parts of zinc and 25 parts of tin; or 30 parts of tin and 70 parts of lead; or 60 parts of lead and 40 parts of bismuth.

ALLOYS FOR METAL FOIL: See Metal Foil.

ALMOND COLD CREAM: See Cosmetics.

ALMOND LIQUEURS: See Wines and Liquors.

ALTARS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

Alum:

Burnt Alum.

—I.—Heat the alum in a porcelain dish or other suitable vessel till it liquefies, then raise and continue the heat, not allowing it to exceed 400°, till aqueous vapor ceases to be disengaged, and the salt has lost 47 per cent of its weight. Reduce the residue to powder, and preserve it in a well-stoppered bottle.—Cooley.

II.—Heat ordinary alum (alumina alum) with constant stirring in an iron pan in which it will first melt quietly, and then commence to form blisters. Continue heating until a dry white mass of a loose character remains, which is powdered and kept in well-closed glasses.

ALUM BATH: See Photography.

Aluminum and Its Treatment

How To Color Aluminum:

Blanching Of Aluminum.

—Aluminum is one of the metals most inalterable by air; nevertheless, the objects of aluminum tarnish quickly enough without being {81} altered. They may be restored to their mat whiteness in the following manner: Immerse the aluminum articles in a boiling bath of caustic potash; next plunge them quickly into nitric acid, rinse and let dry. It must be understood that this method is applicable only to pieces entirely of aluminum.

Decolorized Aluminum.

—Gray or unsightly aluminum may be restored to its white color by washing with a mixture of 30 parts of borax dissolved in 1,000 parts of water, with a few drops of ammonia added.

Mat Aluminum.

—In order to impart to aluminum the appearance of mat silver, plunge the article into a hot bath composed of a 10-per-cent solution of caustic soda saturated with kitchen salt. Leave it in the bath for 15 to 20 seconds, then wash and brush; put back into the bath for half a minute, wash anew and dry in sawdust.

To Blacken Aluminum.

—I.—The surface of the sheet to be colored is polished with very fine emery powder or finest emery cloth. After polishing pour a thin layer of olive oil over the surface and heat slowly over an alcohol flame. Large sheets must, of course, be heated in the drying oven. After a short while pour on oil again, in order to obtain absolute uniformity of the coating, and heat the plate once more. Under the action of the heat the plate turns first brown, then black, according to the degrees of heat. When the desired coloration has been attained, the plate is polished over again, after cooling, with a woolen rag or soft leather.

II.— White arsenic 1 ounce

Sulphate of iron 1 ounce

Hydrochloric acid 12 ounces

Water 12 ounces

When the arsenic and iron are dissolved by the acid add the water. The aluminum to be blackened should be well cleaned with fine emery powder and washed before immersing in the blackening solution. When the deposit of black is deep enough dry off with fine sawdust and lacquer.

Decorating Aluminum.

—A process for decorating aluminum, patented in Germany, prescribes that the objects be first corroded, which is usually done with caustic soda lye, or, better still, by a new method which consists in heating 3 parts of sulphuric acid with 1 part of water to 140° to 158° F., in an enameled vessel. Into this liquid dip the aluminum articles, rinsing them off clean and then drying them well. The corroded articles are now placed in a bath consisting of 1,000 parts of alcohol (90 per cent), 1.50 parts of antimony, 250 parts of chemically pure hydrochloric acid, 100 parts of manganous nitrate, and 20 parts of purified and finely elutriated graphite. In this bath, which is heated to 86°–95° F., the objects are left until fumes develop around them, which takes place in a few seconds. Now they are put over a coal fire or similar arrangement until the alcohol is burned up and there is no more smoke. After they are somewhat cooled off, they are laid into cold water and worked with a brush, then rinsed with water and well dried. The pieces are now provided with a gray metallic coating, consisting mainly of antimony, manganese, and graphite. This metallic layer renders them capable of receiving a lacquer which is best prepared from 1,000 parts of alcohol (90 per cent), 50 parts of sandarac, 100 parts of shellac, and 100 parts of nigrosine (black aniline color). Then the articles are quickly but thoroughly rinsed off, dried in warmed air for a few minutes, and baked in ovens or over a moderate coal fire until they do not smoke any more and no more gloss can be seen. Finally they are rubbed with a cotton rag saturated with thin linseed-oil varnish, and the objects thus treated now appear dull black, like velvet. The covering withstands all action of the weather, so that cooking vessels coated with this varnish on the outside can be placed on the fire without injury to the coating. If the articles are engraved, the aluminum appears almost glossy white under the black layer at the engraved places. When the pieces have been provided with the gray metallic coating, colored lacquer may also be applied with the brush. In this manner paintings, etc., may be done on aluminum, while not possible on unprepared aluminum surfaces, which will not retain them.

Making Castings In Aluminum.

—The method adopted in preparing molds and cores for aluminum work is necessarily somewhat the same as for brass, but there are particular points which need attention to insure successful work. Both in the sand and the making of the molds there are some small differences which make considerable variation in the results, and the temperature at which the metal is poured is a consideration of some importance.

In selecting the sand, which should {82} not have been previously used, that of a fine grain should be chosen, but it should not have any excess of aluminous matter, or it will not permit of the free escape of gases and air, this being an important matter. Besides this, the sand must be used as dry as possible consistent with its holding against the flow of the metal, and having only moderate compression in ramming.

In making the molds it is necessary to remember that aluminum has a large contraction in cooling, and also that at certain temperatures it is very weak and tears readily, while all metals shrink away from the mold when this is wholly outside the casting, but they shrink on to cores or portions of the mold partly inclosed by metal. Thus, if casting a plate or bar of metal, it will shrink away from the mold in all directions; but if casting a square frame, it shrinks away from the outside only, while it shrinks on to the central part or core. With brass, or iron, or such metals, this is not of much importance, but with some others, including aluminum, it is of great importance, because if the core or inclosed sand will not give somewhat with the contraction of the metal, torn or fractured castings will be the result. Both for outside and inside molds, and with cores used with aluminum, the sand should be compressed as little as possible, and hard ramming must in every case be avoided, particularly where the metal surrounds the sand. The molds must be very freely vented, and not only at the joint of the mold, but by using the vent wire freely through the body of the mold itself; in fact, for brass the venting would be considered excessive. With aluminum it is, however, necessary to get the air off as rapidly as possible, because the metal soon gets sluggish in the mold, and unless it runs up quickly it runs faint at the edges. The ingates should be wide and of fair area, but need careful making to prevent their drawing where they enter the casting, the method of doing this being known to most molders.

If it is considered desirable to use a specially made-up facing sand for the molds where the metal is of some thickness, the use of a little pea or bean meal will be all that is necessary. To use this, first dry as much sand as may be required and pass through a 20-mesh sieve, and to each bushel of the fine sand rub in about 4 quarts of meal, afterwards again passing through the sieve to insure regular mixing. This sand should then be damped as required, being careful that all parts are equally moist, rubbing on a board being a good way to get it tough, and in good condition, with the minimum of moisture.

The molds should not be sleeked with tools, but they may be dusted over with plumbago or steatite, smoothing with a camel’s-hair brush, in cases in which a very smooth face is required on the castings. Preferably, however, the use of the brush even should be avoided. Patterns for aluminum should be kept smooth and well varnished.

In melting the metal it is necessary to use a plumbago crucible which is clean and which has not been used for other metals. Clay or silica crucibles are not good for this metal, especially silica, on account of the metal absorbing silicon and becoming hard under some conditions of melting. A steady fire is necessary, and the fuel should reach only about halfway up the crucible, as it is not desirable to overheat the crucible or metal. The metal absorbs heat for some time and then fuses with some rapidity, hence the desirability of a steady heat; and as the metal should be poured when of a claret color under the film of oxide which forms on the surface, too rapid a heating is not advisable. The molding should always be well in advance of the pouring, because the metal should be used as soon as it is ready; for not only is waste caused, but the metal loses condition if kept in a molten state for long periods. The metal should be poured rapidly, but steadily, and when cast up there should not be a large head of metal left on top of the runner. In fact, it is rather a disadvantage to leave a large head, as this tends to draw rather than to feed the casting.

With properly prepared molds, and careful melting, fluxes are not required, but ground cryolite—a fluoride of sodium and aluminum—is sometimes used to increase the fluidity of the metal. In using this, a few ounces according to the bulk of metal to be treated is put into the molten metal before it is taken from the furnace, and well stirred in, and as soon as the reaction apparently ceases the pot is lifted and the metal at once skimmed and poured. The use of sodium in any form with aluminum is very undesirable, however, and should be avoided, and the same remark applies to tin, but there is no objection to alloying with zinc, when the metal thus produced is sold as an alloy.

Aluminum also casts very well in molds of plaster of Paris and crushed bath brick when such molds are perfectly dry {83} and well vented, smoothness being secured by brushing over with dry steatite or plumbago. When casting in metal molds, these should be well brushed out with steatite or plumbago, and made fairly hot before pouring, as in cold molds the metal curdles and becomes sluggish, with the result that the castings run up faint.

To Increase The Toughness, Density, And Tenacity Of Aluminum.

—For the purpose of improving aluminum, without increasing its specific gravity, the aluminum is mixed with 4 to 7 per cent of phosphorus, whereby the density, tenacity, and especially the toughness are said to be enhanced.

Working Of Sheet Aluminum:

The great secret, if there is any, in working aluminum, either pure or alloyed, consists in the proper lubricant and the shape of the tool. Another great disadvantage in the proper working of the metal is that, when a manufacturer desires to make up an article, he will procure the pure metal in order to make his samples, which, of course, is harder to work than the alloy. But the different grades of aluminum sheet which are on the market are so numerous for different classes of work that it might be advisable to consider them for a moment before passing to the method of working them.

The pure metal, to begin with, can be purchased of all degrees of hardness, from the annealed, or what is known as the “dead soft” stock, to the pure aluminum hard rolled. Then comes a harder grade of alloys, running from “dead soft” metal, which will draw up hard, to the same metal hard rolled; and, still again, another set of alloys which, perhaps, are a little harder still when hard rolled, and will, when starting with the “dead soft,” spin up into a utensil which, when finished, will probably be as stiff as brass. These latter alloys are finding a large sale for replacing brass used in all classes of manufactured articles.

To start with lathe work on aluminum, probably more difficulty has been found here, especially in working pure metal, and more complaints are heard from this source than from any other. As stated before, however, these difficulties can all be readily overcome, if the proper tools and the proper lubricants are used, as automatic screw machines are now made so that they can be operated when working aluminum just as readily as when they are working brass, and in some cases more readily. To start with the question of the tool, this should be made as what is known as a “shearing tool,” that is, instead of a short, stubby point, such as would be used in turning brass, the point should be lengthened out and a lot of clearance provided on the inside of the tool, so as to give the chips of the metal a good chance to free themselves and not cause a clogging around the point of the tool—a similar tool, for instance, to what would be used for turning wood.

The best lubricant to be used would be coal oil or water, and plenty of it. The latter is almost as good as coal oil if enough of it is used, and with either of these lubricants and a tool properly made, there should be no difficulty whatsoever in the rapid working of aluminum, either on the lathe or on automatic screw machines.

To go from the lathe to the drawing press, the same tools here would be used in drawing up shapes of aluminum as are used for drawing up brass or other metals; the only precaution necessary in this instance being to use a proper lubricant, which in this case is a cheap grade of vaseline, or in some cases lard oil, but in the majority of instances better results will be secured by the use of vaseline. Aluminum is probably susceptible of deeper drawing with less occasion to anneal than any of the other commercial metals. It requires but one-third or one-fourth of as much annealing as brass or copper. For instance, an article which is now manufactured in brass, requiring, say, three or four operations before the article is finished, would probably have to be annealed after every operation. With aluminum, however, if the proper grade is used, it is generally possible to perform these three operations without annealing the metal at all, and at the same time to produce a finished article which, to all intents and purposes, is as stiff as an article made of sheet brass.

Too much stress cannot be laid on the fact of starting with the proper grade of metal, for either through ignorance or by not observing this point is the foundation of the majority of the complaints that aluminum “has been tried and found wanting.” If, however, it should be found necessary to anneal aluminum, this can be readily accomplished by heating it in an ordinary muffle, being careful that the temperature shall not be too high—about 650° or 700° F. The best test as to when the metal has reached the proper temperature is to take a soft pine stick and draw it across the {84} metal. If it chars the stick and leaves a black mark on the metal, it is sufficiently annealed and is in a proper condition to proceed with further operation.

Next taking up the question of spinning aluminum, success again depends particularly on starting with the proper metal. The most satisfactory speed for articles from 5 to 8 inches in diameter is about 2,600 revolutions a minute, and for larger or smaller diameters the speed should be so regulated as to give the same velocity at the circumference. Aluminum is a very easy metal to spin and no difficulty should be found at all in spinning the proper grades of sheets. Several factories that are using large quantities of aluminum now, both for spinning and stamping, are paying their men by the piece the same amount that they formerly paid on brass and tin work, and it is stated that the men working on this basis make anywhere from 10 to 20 per cent more wages by working aluminum.

After aluminum has been manufactured into the shape of an article, the next process is the finishing of it. The best polish can be obtained by first cutting down the metal with an ordinary rag buff on which use tripoli, and then finish it with a dry red rouge which comes in the lump form, or that which is known as “White Diamond Rouge.” One point, however, that it is necessary to observe carefully is that both the tripoli and the rouge should be procured ground as fine as it is possible to grind them; for, if this is not done, the metal will have little fine scratches all over it, and will not appear as bright and as handsome as it otherwise would.

If it is desired to put on a frosted appearance, this can either be done by scratch brushing or sand blasting. A brass wire scratch brush, made of crimped wire of No. 32 to No. 36 B. & S. gage, with three or four rows of bristles, will probably give the best results. This work of scratch brushing can be somewhat lessened, however, if, before applying the scratch brush to the surface of the aluminum, the article is first cut down by the use of a porpoise-hide wheel and fine Connecticut sand, placing the sand between the surface of the aluminum and the wheel, so that the skin and the irregularities on the surface are removed, and then putting the article on a buffing wheel before attempting to scratch brush it. This method, however, is probably more advantageous in the treating of aluminum castings than for articles manufactured out of the sheet metal, as in the majority of cases it is simply necessary before scratch brushing to cut down the article with tripoli, and then polish it with rouge as already described, before putting on the scratch brush; in this way the brush seems to take hold quicker and better, and to produce a more uniform polish.

An effect similar to the scratch-brush finish can be got by sand blasting, and by first sand blasting and then scratch brushing the sheets, a good finish is obtained with very much less labor than by scratch brushing alone. Another very pretty frosted effect is procured by first sand blasting and then treated as hereinafter described by “dipping” and “frosting,” and many variations in the finish of aluminum can be got by varying the treatment, either by cutting down with tripoli and polishing, scratch brushing, sand blasting, dipping, and frosting, and by combinations of those treatments. A very pretty mottled effect is secured on aluminum by first polishing and then scratch brushing and then holding the aluminum against a soft pine wheel, run at a high rate of speed on a lathe, and by careful manipulation, quite regular forms of a mottled appearance can be obtained.

The dipping and frosting of aluminum sheet is probably the cheapest way of producing a nice finish. First remove all grease and dirt from the article by dipping in benzine, then dip into water in order that the benzine adhering to the article may be removed, so as not to affect the strength of the solution into which it is next dipped. After they have been taken out of the water and well shaken, the articles should be plunged in a strong solution of caustic soda or caustic potash, and left there a sufficient length of time until the aluminum starts to turn black. Then they should be removed, dipped in water again, and then into a solution of concentrated nitric and sulphuric acid, composed of 24 parts of nitric acid to 1 part of sulphuric acid. After being removed, the article should be washed thoroughly in water and dried in hot sawdust in the usual way. This finish can also be varied somewhat by making the solution of caustic soda of varying degrees of strength, or by adding a small amount of common salt to the solution.

In burnishing the metal use a bloodstone or a steel burnisher. In burnishing use a mixture of melted vaseline and coal oil, or a solution composed of 2 ta­ble­spoon­fuls of ground borax dissolved in about a quart of hot water, with a few {85} drops of ammonia added. In engraving, which adds materially to the appearance of finished castings, book covers, picture frames, and similar articles made of sheet, probably the best lubricant to use on an engraver’s tool in order to obtain a clean cut, which is bright, is naphtha or coal oil, or a mixture of coal oil and vaseline. The naphtha, however, is preferred, owing to the fact that it does not destroy the satin finish in the neighborhood of the cut, as the other lubricants are very apt to do. There is, however, as much skill required in using and making a tool in order to give a bright, clean cut as there is in the choice of the lubricant to be used. The tool should be made somewhat on the same plan as the lathe tools already outlined. That is, they should be brought to a sharp point and be “cut back” rather far, so as to give plenty of clearance.

There has been one class of work in aluminum that has been developed lately and only to a certain extent, in which there are great possibilities, and that is in drop forging the metal. Some very superior bicycle parts have been manufactured by drop forging. This can be accomplished probably more readily with aluminum than with other metals, for the reason that it is not necessary with all the alloys to work them hot; consequently, they can be worked and handled more rapidly.

ALUMINUM, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

ALUMINUM ALLOYS: See Alloys.

ALUMINUM BRONZE: See Alloys under Bronzes.

ALUMINUM CASTINGS: See Casting.

ALUMINUM PAPER: See Paper.

ALUMINUM PLATING: See Plating.

ALUMINUM POLISHES: See Polishes.

Amalgams

See also Easily Fusible Alloys under Alloys.

The name amalgam is given to alloys of metals containing mercury. The term comes to us from the alchemists. It signifies softening, because an excess of mercury dissolves a large number of metals.

Preparation Of Amalgams.

—Mercury forms amalgams with most metals. It unites directly and readily, either cold or hot, with potassium, sodium, barium, strontium, calcium, magnesium, zinc, cadmium, tin, antimony, lead, bismuth, silver, and gold; directly, but more difficultly, with aluminum, copper, and palladium. This combination takes place oftenest at the ordinary temperature; certain metals, however, like aluminum and antimony, combine only when heated in presence of quicksilver.

Quicksilver has no direct action on metals of high fusing points: manganese, iron, nickel, cobalt, uranium, platinum, and their congeners. Still, amalgams of these metals can be obtained of butyrous consistency, either by electrolysis of their saline solutions, employing quicksilver as the negative electrode, or by the action of an alkaline amalgam (potassium or sodium), on their concentrated and neutral saline solutions. These same refractory metals are also amalgamated superficially when immersed in the amalgam of sodium or of ammonium in presence of water.

Processes for preparing amalgams by double decomposition between an alkaline amalgam and a metallic salt, or by electrolysis of saline solutions, with employment of mercury as the negative electrode, apply a fortiori to metals capable of combining directly with the quicksilver. The latter of these methods is especially utilized for the preparation of alkaline earthy metals by electrolytic decomposition of the solutions of their salts or hydrated oxides with quicksilver as a cathode.

General Properties Of Amalgams.

—Amalgams are liquid when the quicksilver is in great excess; solid, but readily fusible, when the alloyed metal predominates.

They have a metallic luster, and a metallic structure which renders them brittle. They even form crystallized metallic combinations of constant proportions, dissolved in an excess of quicksilver, when the excess is separated by compression in a chamois skin, or by filtration in a glass funnel of slender stem, terminating with an orifice almost capillary.

According as the fusing heat of a metal is less or greater than its combination heat with quicksilver, the amalgamation of this metal produces an elevation or a lowering of temperature. Thus {86} potassium, sodium, and cadmium, in alloy with quicksilver, disengage heat; while zinc, antimony, tin, bismuth, lead, and silver combine with mercury with absorption of heat. The amalgamation of 162 parts of quicksilver with 21 parts of lead, 12 parts of tin or of antimony, and 28.5 parts of bismuth, lowers the temperature of the mixture 79° F.

Amalgams formed with disengagement of heat are electro-negative with reference to the metals alloyed with the quicksilver. The products with absorption of heat are electro-negative with reference to the metals combined with the quicksilver; consequently, in a battery of elements of pure cadmium and amalgamated cadmium, the cadmium will be the negative pole; in case of zinc and amalgamated zinc, the zinc will be the positive pole.

Heat decomposes all amalgams, vaporizing the mercury and leaving the metal alloys as a residue.

Water is decomposed by the amalgams of potassium and sodium, because the heat of formation of these amalgams, although considerable, is even less than the heat disengaged by potassium and sodium, on decomposing water. The alkaline amalgams may, therefore, serve as a source of nascent hydrogen in presence of water, giving rise to an action less energetic, and often more advantageous, than that of the alkaline metals alone. Thus is caused the frequent employment of sodium amalgam for hydrogenizing a large number of bodies. As a consequence of their action on water, the alkaline amalgams are changed by moist air, with production of free alkali or alkaline carbonate.

Applications Of Potassium Amalgams.

—I.—They furnish a process for preparing potassium by the decomposition of potash by the electric current, by employing quicksilver as the cathode, and vaporizing the quicksilver of the amalgam formed by heating this in a current of dry hydrogen.

II.—They can serve for the preparation of the amalgams of the metals, other than those of the alkaline group, by decomposing the salts of these metals, with formation of a salt of potash and of the amalgam of the metal corresponding to the original salt.

III.—They can be employed as a source of nascent hydrogen in presence of water for hydrogenizing many substances.

Applications Of Sodium Amalgams.

—These are nearly the same as those of the potassium amalgams, but the sodium amalgams are employed almost exclusively, because sodium is easier to handle than potassium, and is cheaper. These employments are the following:

I.—Sodium amalgam furnishes a process for the preparation of sodium when soda is decomposed by means of the electric current, employing quicksilver as the cathode, and afterwards vaporizing the quicksilver of the amalgam formed by heating this in a current of dry hydrogen.

II.—Amalgams of sodium serve for the preparation of amalgams of the other metals, particularly alkaline earthy metals and metals of high fusing points, by decomposing the salts of these metals, with formation of a salt of soda and of the amalgam of the metal corresponding to the original salt.

III.—They serve for amalgamating superficially the metals of high fusing point, called “refractory,” such as iron and platinum, when a well-cleaned plate of these metals is immersed in sodium amalgam in presence of water.

IV.—An amalgam of 2 or 3 per cent of sodium is employed in the processes of extraction of gold by amalgamation. It has the property of rendering quicksilver more brilliant, and consequently more energetic, by acting as a deoxidant on the pellicle of oxide formed on its surface in presence of certain ores, which, by keeping it separated from the particles of gold, destroy its activity. Sodium amalgam of 3 per cent is utilized with success for the amalgamated plates employed in crushers and other apparatus for treating the ores of gold. If a few drops of this amalgam are spread on a plate of copper, of tin, or of zinc, a brilliant coating of an amalgam of tin, copper, or zinc is immediately formed.

V.—Amalgams of from 2 to 8 per cent of sodium serve frequently in laboratories for reducing or hydrogenizing organic combinations, without running the risk of a partial destruction of these compounds by too intense action, as may occur by employing free sodium instead of its amalgam.

Applications Of Barium Amalgams.

—These can, by distillation, furnish barium. It is one of the processes for preparing this metal, which, when thus obtained, almost always retains a little sodium.

Applications Of Strontium Amalgams.

—These amalgams, washed and dried rapidly immediately after their preparation, and then heated to a nascent red {87} in a current of dry hydrogen, yield a fused mass of strontium.

Applications Of Cadmium Amalgams.

—Amalgams of cadmium, formed of equal weights of cadmium and quicksilver, have much power of cohesion and are quite malleable; the case is the same with an amalgam formed of 1 part of cadmium and 2 parts of quicksilver. They are used as dental cements for plugging teeth; for the same purpose an amalgam of 2 parts of quicksilver, 1 part of cadmium, and 2 parts of tin may be used.

Applications Of Zinc Amalgams.

—The principal employment of zinc amalgams is their use as a cathode or negative electrode in the batteries of Munson, Daniels, and Lechanché. This combination is designed to render the zinc non-attackable by the exciting liquid of the battery with open circuit. The action of the mercury is to prevent the zinc from forming a large number of small voltaic elements when foreign bodies are mingled with the metal; in a word, the giving to ordinary zinc the properties of pure zinc, and consequently of causing a great saving in expense.

For amalgamating a zinc plate it is plunged for a few seconds into water in which there is one-sixteenth in volume of sulphuric acid, then rubbing with a copper-wire brush which has been dipped in the quicksilver. The mercury takes more readily on the zinc when, after the zinc has been cleaned with water sharpened with sulphuric acid, it is moistened with a solution of corrosive sublimate, which is reduced and furnishes a first very thin coat of amalgam, on which the quicksilver is immediately fixed by simple immersion without rubbing.

The zinc of a battery may be amalgamated by putting at the bottom of the compartment containing each element, a little quicksilver in such a way that the zinc touches the liquid. The amalgamation is effected under the influence of the current, but this process applies only on condition that the zinc alone touches the bottom of the vessel containing the quicksilver.

Applications Of Manganese Amalgams.

—These may serve for the preparation of manganese. For this purpose it is sufficient to distill in a current of pure hydrogen. The manganese remains in the form of a grayish powder.

Applications Of Tin Amalgams.

—I.—Tinning of glass. This operation is accomplished in the following manner: On a cast-iron table, quite horizontal, a sheet of tin of the dimensions of the glass is spread out and covered with a layer of quicksilver, 5 or 6 millimeters in thickness. The glass is made to slide on the sheet of tin in such a way as to drive off the excess of quicksilver; when the two surfaces are covered without interposition of air, weights are placed on the glass. In a few days, the glass may be removed, having been covered with an adhering pellicle of amalgam of 4 parts of tin and 1 part of quicksilver. (See also Mirrors.)

II.—An amalgam consisting of 2 parts of zinc and 1 part tin may be used for covering the cushions of frictional electric machines. This amalgam is prepared by first melting the zinc and tin in a crucible and adding the quicksilver previously heated.

III.—Mention has been made of the cadmium amalgam employed for plugging teeth, an amalgam of 2 parts of quicksilver, 2 parts of tin, and 1 part of cadmium. For the same purpose an amalgam of tin, silver, and gold is employed. (See also Cements, Dental.)

Applications Of Copper Amalgams.

—I.—An amalgam of 30 per cent of copper has been employed for filling teeth. This use has been abandoned on account of the inconvenience occasioned by the great changeableness of the product.

II.—The amalgam of 30 per cent of copper, designated by the name of “metallic mastic,” is an excellent cement for repairing objects and utensils of porcelain. For this employment, the broken surfaces are heated to 662° F., and a little of the amalgam, previously heated to the consistency of melted wax, is applied.

III.—Copper amalgam, of 30 to 45 per cent of copper, rendered plastic by heating and grinding, may serve for obtaining with slight compression copies of delicate objects, which may, after hardening of the amalgam, be reproduced, either in wax or by galvanic process.

IV.—According to Debray, when a medal, obtained with an amalgam of 45 per cent of copper, by compression in the soft state, in molds of gutta percha, is heated progressively to redness in an atmosphere of hydrogen, the quicksilver is volatilized gradually, and the particles of copper come together without fusion in such a way as to produce a faithful reproduction, formed exclusively of metallic copper, of the original medal.

V.—In the metallurgy of gold, the crushers are furnished with amalgamated plates of copper for retaining the gold. The preparation of these plates, {88} which are at least 0.128 inches in thickness, is delicate, requiring about two weeks. They are freed from greasy matter by rubbing with ashes, or, better, with a little sand and caustic soda, or if more rapid action is desired, with a cloth dipped in dilute nitric acid; they are washed with water, then with a solution of potassium cyanide, and finally brushed with a mixture of sal ammoniac and a little quicksilver, until the surface is completely amalgamated. They are finally made to absorb as much quicksilver as possible. But the plates thus treated are useful for only a few days when they are sufficiently covered with a layer of gold amalgam; in the meantime they occasion loss of time and of gold. So it is preferable to cover them artificially with a little gold amalgam, which is prepared by dissolving gold in quicksilver. Sometimes the amalgam of gold is replaced by an amalgam of silver, which is readily poured and more economical.

Another method giving better results consists in silvering copper slabs by electroplating and covering them with a layer of silver. Then it is only necessary to apply a little quicksilver, which adheres quite rapidly, so that they are ready for use almost immediately, and are quite active at the outset.

These amalgamation slabs ought to be cleaned before each operation. Potassium cyanide removes fatty matter, and sal ammoniac the oxides of the low metals.

Applications Of Lead Amalgams.

—These meet with an interesting employment for the autogenous soldering of lead. After the surfaces to be soldered have been well cleaned, a layer of lead amalgam is applied. It is afterwards sufficient to pass along the line of junction a soldering iron heated to redness, in order that the heat should cause the volatilization of the quicksilver, and that the lead, liberated in a state of fine division, should be melted and cause the adherence of the two surfaces. The only precaution necessary is to avoid breathing the mercurial vapor, which is quite poisonous.

Applications Of Bismuth Amalgams.

—The amalgam formed of 1 per cent of bismuth and 4 parts of quicksilver will cause the strong adherence of glass. It is employed with advantage in the tinning of glass globes. For this operation it is poured into a dry hot receiver, and then passed over the whole surface of the glass; it solidifies on cooling. For the purpose of economizing the bismuth, the price of which is high, the preceding amalgam is replaced by another composed of 2 parts of quicksilver, 1 part of bismuth, 1 part of lead, and 1 part of tin. The bismuth, broken into small fragments, is added to the tin and lead, previously melted in the crucible, and when the mixture of the three metals becomes fluid, the quicksilver is poured in, while stirring with an iron rod. The impurities floating on the surface are removed, and when the temperature is sufficiently lowered this amalgam is slowly poured into the vessels to be tinned, which have been previously well cleaned and slightly heated. M. Ditte recommends for the same employment, as a very strong adherent to the glass, an amalgam obtained by dissolving hot 2 parts of bismuth and 1 part of lead in a solution of 1 part of tin in 10 parts of quicksilver. By causing a quantity of this amalgam to move around the inside of a receiver, clean, dry, and slightly heated, the surface will be covered with a thin, brilliant layer, which hardens quite rapidly.

For the injection of anatomical pieces an amalgam formed of 10 parts of quicksilver, 50 parts of bismuth, 31 parts of lead, and 18 parts of tin, fusible at 77.5° and solidifiable at 60° C., is made use of; or, again, an amalgam composed of 9 parts of Darcet alloy and 1 part of quicksilver fusible at 127 / 2° F., and pasty at a still lower temperature. This last amalgam may also be used for filling carious teeth. The Darcet alloy, as known, contains 2 parts of bismuth, 1 part of lead, and 1 part of tin, and melts at 199 / 2° F. The addition of 1 part of quicksilver lowers the fusing point to 104° F.

Applications Of Silver Amalgams.

—I.—In the silvering of mirrors by the Petitjean method, which has almost universally replaced tinning, the property of silver in readily amalgamating is taken advantage of, by substituting the glass after silvering to the action of a dilute solution of double cyanide of mercury and potassium in such a manner as to form an amalgam of white and brilliant silver adhering strongly to the glass. To facilitate the operation and utilize all the silver, while economizing the double cyanide, M. Lenoir has recommended the following: Sprinkle the glass at the time when it is covered with the mercurial solution with very fine zinc powder, which precipitates the quicksilver and regulates the amalgamation.

II.—The metallurgy of silver also takes advantage of the property of this {89} metal in combining cold with quicksilver; this for the treatment of poor silver ores.

In the Saxon or Freiburg process for treating silver ores, recourse is had to quicksilver in the case of amalgam in amalgamating casks, in which the ore, after grinding, is shaken with disks of iron, and with mercury and water. The amalgam, collected and filtered under strong pressure, contains from 30 to 33 per cent of silver. It is distilled either in cylindrical retorts of cast iron, furnished with an exit tube immersed in the water for condensing the mercurial vapors, or on plates of iron, arranged over each other along a vertical iron stem, supported by a tripod at the bottom of a tank filled with water, and covered with an iron receiver, which is itself surrounded with ignited charcoal. It should be remarked that the last portions of quicksilver in a silver amalgam submitted to distillation are volatilized only under the action of a high and prolonged temperature.

Applications Of Gold Amalgams.

—I.—Gilding with quicksilver. This process of gilding, much employed formerly, is now but little used. It can be applied only to metals slightly fusible and capable of amalgamation, like silver, copper, bronze, and brass. Iron can also be gilded by this method, provided it is previously covered with a coating of copper. To perform this gilding the surface is well cleaned, and the gold amalgam, consisting of 2 parts of gold and 1 part of quicksilver, prepared as mentioned before, is applied. The piece is afterwards heated to about the red, so as to volatilize the mercury. The gold remains, superficially alloyed with the metal, and forms an extremely solid layer of deadened gold, which can be afterwards polished. The volatilization should be effected under a chimney having strong draught, in order to avoid the poisonous action of the mercurial vapors.

II.—The amalgamation of gold finds its principal applications in the treatment of auriferous ores. The extraction of small spangles of gold scattered in gold-bearing sands is based on the ready dissolution of gold in quicksilver, and on the formation of an amalgam of solid gold by compression and filtering through a chamois skin, in a state more or less liquid. The spangles of gold are shaken with about their weight of quicksilver, collected in the cavities of sluices and mixed with a small quantity of sand. The gold is dissolved and the sand remains. The amalgam thus obtained is compressed in a chamois skin, so as to separate the excess of mercury which passes through the pores of the skin; or, yet again, it is filtered through a glass funnel having a very slender stem, with almost capillary termination. In both cases an amalgam of solid gold remains, which is submitted to the action of heat in a crucible or cast-iron retort, communicating with a bent-iron tube, of which the extremity, surrounded with a cloth immersed in water, is arranged above a receiver half full of water. The quicksilver is vaporized and condensed in the water. The gold remains in the retort.

The property of gold of combining readily with quicksilver is also used in many kinds of amalgamating apparatus for extraction and in the metallurgy of gold.

In various operations it is essential to keep the quicksilver active by preserving its limpidity. For this purpose potassium cyanide and ammonium chloride are especially employed; sometimes wood ashes, carbonate of soda, hyposulphite of soda, nitrate of potash, cupric sulphate, sea salt, and lime; the latter for precipitating the soluble sulphates proceeding from the decomposition of pyrites.

The amalgamation of gold is favored by a temperature of 38° to 45° C. (100° to 113° F.), and still more by the employment of quicksilver in the nascent state. This last property is the base of the Designol process, which consists in treating auriferous or auro-argentiferous ores, first ground with sea salt, in revolving cylinders of cast iron, with iron and mercury bichloride, in such a way that the mercury precipitated collects the gold and eventually the silver more efficaciously.

Gold Amalgam.

—Eight parts of gold and 1 of mercury are formed into an amalgam for plating by rendering the gold into thin plates, making it red hot, and then putting it into the mercury while the latter is also heated to ebullition. The gold immediately disappears in combination with the mercury, after which the mixture may be turned into water to cool. It is then ready for use.

Zinc Amalgam For Electric Batteries.

—Dissolve 2 parts of mercury in 1 part of aqua regia. This accomplished, add 5 parts of hydrochloric acid. This solution is made warm. It suffices to dip the zinc to be amalgamated into this liquid only for a few seconds. {90}

Amalgam For Cementing Glass, Porcelain, Etc.

—Take tin 2 parts, and cadmium 1 part. Fuse in an iron spoon or some vessel of the same material. When the two materials are in fusion add a little mercury, previously heated. Place all in an iron crucible and boil, agitating the mass with a pestle. This amalgam is soft and can be kneaded between the fingers. It may be employed for luting glass or porcelain vessels, as well as for filling teeth. It hardens in a short while.

Amalgam For Silvering Glass Balls.

—Lead, 25 parts; tin, 25 parts; bismuth, 25 parts; mercury, 25 parts; or, lead, 20 parts; tin, 20 parts; bismuth, 20 parts; mercury, 40 parts. Melt the lead and the tin, then add the bismuth; skim several times and add the mercury, stirring the composition vigorously.

(See also Mirror-Silvering).

Copper Amalgam.

—Copper amalgam, or so-called Viennese metal cement, crystallizes with the greatest readiness and acquires such hardness on solidifying that it can be polished like gold. The amalgam may also be worked under the hammer or between rollers; it can also be stamped, and retains its metallic luster for a long time in the air. In air containing hydrogen sulphide, however, it quickly tarnishes and turns black. A very special property of copper amalgam consists in that it becomes very soft when laid in water, and attains such pliancy that it can be employed for modeling the most delicate objects. After a few hours the amalgam congeals again into a very fine-grained, rather malleable mass. An important application of copper amalgam is that for cementing metals. All that is necessary for this purpose is to heat the metals, which must be bright, to 80–90° C. (176–194° F.), to apply the amalgam and to press the metal pieces together. They will cohere as firmly as though soldered together.

Copper amalgam may be prepared in the following manner:

Place strips of zinc in a solution of blue vitriol and agitate the solution thoroughly. The copper thus obtained in the form of a very fine powder is washed and, while still moist, treated in a mortar with a solution of mercury nitrate. The copper powder thereby amalgamates more readily with the quicksilver. Next, hot water is poured over the copper, the mortar is kept hot, and the mercury added. Knead with the pestle of the mortar until the copper, pulverulent in the beginning, has united with the mercury into a very plastic mass. The longer the kneading is continued the more uniform will be the mass. As soon as the amalgam has acquired the suitable character—for its production 3 parts of copper and 7 parts of mercury are used—the water is poured off and the amalgam still soft is given the shape in which it is to be kept.

For cementing purposes, the amalgam is rolled out into small cylinders, whose diameter is about 0.16 to 0.2 inches, with a length of a few inches. In order to produce with this amalgam impressions of castings, which are made after woodcuts, the amalgam is rolled out hot into a thin plate and pressed firmly onto the likewise heated plaster cast. After the amalgam has hardened the thin plate of it may be reinforced by pouring on molten type metal.

Silver Amalgam.

—Silver amalgam can easily be made with the help of finely powdered silver. The mercury need only be heated to 250° to 300° C. (482° to 572° F.); silver powder is then sprinkled on it, and mixed with it by stirring. The vessel is heated for several minutes and then allowed to cool, the excess of mercury being removed from the granulated crystalline amalgam by pressing in a leather bag. Silver amalgam can also easily be made by dissolving silver in nitric acid, evaporating the solution till the excess of free acid is eliminated, diluting with distilled water, and adding mercury to the fluid in the proportion of 4 parts, by weight, of mercury to 1 of the silver originally used. The mercury precipitates the silver in a metallic state, and immediately forms an amalgam with it; the fluid standing above after a time contains no more silver, but consists of a solution of mercury nitrate mixed with whatever copper was contained in the dissolved silver in the form of copper nitrate. The absence of a white precipitate, if a few drops of hydrochloric acid are added to a sample of the fluid in a test tube, shows that all the silver has been eliminated from the solution and is present in the form of amalgam.

Amalgam For The Rubber Of Electric Machines.

—Mercury, 100 parts; zinc, 50 parts; tin, 50 parts. This amalgam reduced to powder and incorporated with grease can be applied to the rubber of electric machines.

AMALGAM GOLD PLATING: See Gilding under Plating.

Amber:

Imitation Amber.

—Melt carefully together pine rosin, 1; lacca in tabulis, 2; white colophony, 15 parts. {91}

AMBER CEMENT: See Adhesives under Cements.

AMBER VARNISH: See Varnishes.

AMBROSIA POWDER: See Salts (Effervescent).

AMIDOL DEVELOPER: See Photography.

AMETHYST (IMITATION): See Gems, Artificial.

AMMON-CARBONITE: See Explosives.

Ammonia

Household Ammonia.

—(See also Household Formulas.)—Household ammonia is simply diluted ammonia water to which borax and soap have been added. To make it cloudy add potassium nitrate or methylated spirit. The following are good formulas:

I.— Ammonia water 16 parts

Yellow soap 64 parts

Potassium nitrate 1 part

Soft water, sufficient to make 200 parts

Shave up the soap and dissolve it in the water by heating, add the potassium nitrate and dissolve. Cool, strain, skim off any suds or bubbles, add the ammonia, mix, and bottle at once.

II.— Yellow soap 10 grains

Borax 1 drachm

Lavender water 20 minims

Stronger ammonia water 6 ounces

Water, enough to make 20 ounces

Dissolve the soap and borax in 5 ounces of boiling water; when cold add the lavender water and ammonia, and make up to a pint with water.

III.— Methylated spirit 1 gallon

Soft water 1 gallon

Stronger ammonia water 1 gallon

IV.— Ammonia water 5 pints

Distilled water 5 pints

Soap 100 grains

Olive oil 5 drachms

Cut the soap in shavings, boil with the oil and water, cool, add the ammonia water, and bottle. For use in laundries, baths, and for general household purposes add one ta­ble­spoon­ful to one gallon of water.

V.—The best quality:

Alcohol, 94 per cent 4 ounces

Soft water 4 gallons

Oil of rosemary 4 drachms

Oil of citronella 3 drachms

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol and add to the water. To the mixture add 4 ounces of talc (or fuller’s earth will answer), mix thoroughly, strain through canvas, and to the colate add 1, 2, or 3 gallons of ammonia water, according to the strength desired, in which has been dissolved 1, 2, or 3 ounces of white curd, or soft soap.

Liquor Ammonii Anisatus.—

Oil of anise, by weight 1 part

Alcohol, by weight 24 parts

Water of ammonia, by weight 5 parts

Dissolve the oil in the alcohol and add the water of ammonia.

It should be a clear, yellowish liquid.

Violet Color For Ammonia.

—A purple-blue color may be given to ammonia water by adding an aqueous solution of litmus. The shade, when pale enough, will probably meet all views as to a violet color.

Perfumed Ammonia Water.

—The following are typical formulas:

I.— Stronger water of ammonia 6 ounces

Lavender water 1 ounce

Soft soap 10 grains

Water, enough to make 16 ounces

II.— Soft soap 1 ounce

Borax 2 drachms

Cologne water / 2 ounce

Stronger water of ammonia 5 / 2 ounces

Water, enough to make 12 ounces

Rub up the soap and borax with water until dissolved, strain and add the other ingredients. The perfumes may be varied to suit the price.

AMMONIA FOR FIXING PRINTS: See Photography.

ANGOSTURA BITTERS: See Wines and Liquors.

ANILINE: See Dyes.

ANILINE IN PIGMENTS, TESTS FOR: See Pigments.

ANILINE STAINS, TO REMOVE: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods. {92}

ANISE CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

ANKARA: See Butter.

ANNEALING OF STEEL, TOOLS, WIRE, AND SPRINGS: See Steel.

ANODYNES: See Pain Killers.

ANT DESTROYERS: See Insecticides.

Antidotes for Poisons

Poison, Symptoms And Antidotes.

When a person has taken poison the first thing to do is to compel the patient to vomit, and for that purpose give any emetic that can be most readily and quickly obtained, and which is prompt and energetic, but safe in its action. For this purpose there is, perhaps, nothing better than a large teaspoonful of ground mustard in a tumblerful of warm water, and it has the advantage of being almost always at hand. If the dry mustard is not to be had use mixed mustard from the mustard pot. Its operation may generally be facilitated by the addition of a like quantity of common table salt. If the mustard is not at hand, give two or three teaspoonfuls of powdered alum in syrup or molasses, and give freely of warm water to drink; or give 10 to 20 grains of sulphate of zinc (white vitriol), or 20 to 30 grains of ipecac, with 1 or 2 grains of tartar emetic, in a large cup of warm water, and repeat every ten minutes until three or four doses are given, unless free vomiting is sooner produced. After vomiting has taken place large draughts of warm water should be given, so that the vomiting will continue until the poisonous substances have been thoroughly evacuated, and then suitable antidotes should be given. If vomiting cannot be produced the stomach pump should be used. When it is known what particular kind of poison has been swallowed, then the proper antidote for that poison should be given; but when this cannot be ascertained, as is often the case, give freely of equal parts of calcined magnesia, pulverized charcoal, and sesquioxide of iron, in a sufficient quantity of water. This is a very harmless mixture and is likely to be of great benefit, as the ingredients, though very simple, are antidotes for the most common and active poisons. In case this mixture cannot be obtained, the stomach should be soothed and protected by the free administration of demulcent, mucilaginous, or oleaginous drinks, such as the whites of eggs, milk, mucilage of gum arabic, or slippery-elm bark, flaxseed tea, starch, wheat flour, or arrowroot mixed in water, linseed or olive oil, or melted butter or lard. Subsequently the bowels should be moved by some gentle laxative, as a ta­ble­spoon­ful or two of castor oil, or a teaspoonful of calcined magnesia; and pain or other evidence of inflammation must be relieved by the administration of a few drops of laudanum, and the repeated application of hot poultices, fomentations, and mustard plasters.

The following are the names of the substances that may give rise to poisoning, most commonly used, and their antidotes:

Mineral Acids—sulphuric Acid (Oil Of Vitriol), Nitric Acid (Aqua Fortis), Muriatic Acid (Spirits Of Salts).

—Symptoms: Acid, burning taste in the mouth, acute pain in the throat, stomach, and bowels; frequent vomiting, generally bloody; mouth and lips excoriated, shriveled, white or yellow; hiccough, copious stools, more or less bloody, with great tenderness in the abdomen; difficult breathing, irregular pulse, excessive thirst, while drink increases the pain and rarely remains in the stomach; frequent but vain efforts to urinate; cold sweats, altered countenance; convulsions, generally preceding death. Nitric acid causes yellow stains; sulphuric acid, black ones. Treatment: Mix calcined magnesia in milk or water to the consistence of cream, and give freely to drink a glassful every couple of minutes, if it can be swallowed. Common soap (hard or soft), chalk, whiting, or even mortar from the wall mixed in water may be given, until magnesia can be obtained. Promote vomiting by tickling the throat, if necessary, and when the poison is got rid of, flaxseed or slippery-elm tea, gruel, or other mild drinks. The inflammation which always follows needs good treatment to save the patient’s life.

Vegetable Acids—acetic, Citric, Oxalic, Tartaric.

—Symptoms: Intense burning pain of mouth, throat, and stomach; vomiting blood which is highly acid, violent purging, collapse, stupor, death.

Oxalic acid is frequently taken in {93} mistake for Epsom salts, to which in shops it often bears a strong resemblance. Treatment: Give chalk or magnesia in a large quantity of water, or large draughts of limewater. If these are not at hand, scrape the wall or ceiling, and give the scrapings mixed with water.

Prussic Or Hydrocyanic Acid—laurel Water, Cyanide Of Potassium, Bitter Almond Oil, Etc.

—Symptoms: In large doses almost invariably instantaneously fatal; when not immediately fatal, sudden loss of sense and control of the voluntary muscles. The odor of the poison generally noticeable on the breath. Treatment: Chlorine, in the form of chlorine water, in doses of from 1 to 4 fluidrachms, diluted. Weak solution of chloride lime of soda; water of ammonia (spirits of hartshorn), largely diluted, may be given, and the vapor of it cautiously inhaled. Cold affusion, and chloroform in half to teaspoonful doses in glycerine or mucilage, repeated every few minutes, until the symptoms are ameliorated. Artificial respiration.

Aconite—monkshood, Wolfsbane.

—Symptoms: Numbness and tingling in the mouth and throat, and afterwards in other portions of the body, with sore throat, pain over the stomach, and vomiting; dimness of vision, dizziness, great prostration, loss of sensibility, and delirium. Treatment: An emetic and then brandy in ta­ble­spoon­ful doses, in ice water, every half hour; spirits of ammonia in half-teaspoonful doses in like manner; the cold douche over the head and chest, warmth to the extremities, etc.

Alkalis And Their Salts—concentrated Lye, Wood-ash Lye, Caustic Potash, Ammonia, Hartshorn.

—Symptoms: Caustic, acrid taste, excessive heat in the throat, stomach, and intestines; vomiting of bloody matter, cold sweats, hiccough, purging of bloody stools. Treatment: The common vegetable acids. Common vinegar, being always at hand, is most frequently used. The fixed oils, as castor, flaxseed, almond, and olive oils form soaps with the alkalis and thus also destroy their caustic effect. They should be given in large quantity.

Antimony And Its Preparations—tartar Emetic, Antimonial Wine, Kerme’s Mineral.

—Symptoms: Faintness and nausea, soon followed by painful and continued vomiting, severe diarrhea, constriction and burning sensation in the throat, cramps, or spasmodic twitchings, with symptoms of nervous derangement, and great prostration of strength, often terminating in death. Treatment: If vomiting has not been produced, it should be effected by tickling the fauces, and administering copious draughts of warm water. Astringent infusions, such as of gall, oak bark, Peruvian bark, act as antidotes, and should be given promptly. Powdered yellow bark may be used until the infusion is prepared, or very strong green tea should be given. To stop the vomiting, should it continue, blister over the stomach by applying a cloth wet with strong spirits of hartshorn, and then sprinkle on one-eighth to one-fourth of a grain of morphia.

Arsenic And Its Preparations—ratsbane, Fowler’s Solution, Etc.

—Symptoms: Generally within an hour pain and heat are felt in the stomach, soon followed by vomiting, with a burning dryness of the throat and great thirst; the matters vomited are generally colored either green yellow, or brown, and are sometimes bloody. Diarrhea or dysentery ensues, while the pulse becomes small and rapid, yet irregular. Breathing much oppressed; difficulty in vomiting may occur, while cramps, convulsions, or even paralysis often precede death, which sometimes takes place within five or six hours after arsenic has been taken. Treatment: Give a prompt emetic, and then hydrate of peroxide of iron (recently prepared) in ta­ble­spoon­ful doses every 10 or 15 minutes until the urgent symptoms are relieved. In the absence of this, or while it is being prepared, give large draughts of new milk and raw eggs, limewater and oil, melted butter, magnesia in a large quantity of water, or even if nothing else is at hand, flour and water, always, however, giving an emetic the first thing, or causing vomiting by tickling the throat with a feather, etc. The inflammation of the stomach which follows must be treated by blisters, hot fomentations, mucilaginous drinks, and the like.

Belladonna, Or Deadly Nightshade.

—Symptoms: Dryness of the mouth and throat, great thirst, difficulty of swallowing, nausea, dimness, confusion or loss of vision, great enlargement of the pupils, dizziness, delirium, and coma. Treatment: There is no known antidote. Give a prompt emetic and then reliance must be placed on continual stimulation with brandy, whisky, etc., and to necessary artificial respiration. Opium and its preparations, as morphia, laudanum, etc., are thought by some to {94} counteract the effect of belladonna, and may be given in small and repeated doses, as also strong black coffee and green tea.

Blue Vitriol, or Blue Stone.—See Copper.

Cantharides (Spanish Or Blistering Fly) And Modern Potato Bug.

—Symptoms: Sickening odor of the breath, sour taste, with burning heat in the throat, stomach, and bowels; frequent vomiting, often bloody; copious bloody stools, great pain in the stomach, with burning sensation in the bladder and difficulty to urinate followed with terrible convulsions, delirium, and death. Treatment: Excite vomiting by drinking plentifully of sweet oil or other wholesome oils, sugar and water, milk, or slippery-elm tea; give injections of castor oil and starch, or warm milk. The inflammatory symptoms which generally follow must be treated by a physician. Camphorated oil or camphorated spirits should be rubbed over the bowels, stomach, and thighs.

Caustic Potash.—See Alkalis under this title.

Cobalt, Or Fly Powder.

—Symptoms: Heat and pain in the throat and stomach, violent retching and vomiting, cold and clammy skin, small and feeble pulse, hurried and difficult breathing, diarrhea, etc. Treatment: An emetic, followed by the free administration of milk, eggs, wheat flour and water, and mucilaginous drinks.

Copper—blue Vitriol, Verdigris Or Pickles Or Food Cooked In Copper Vessels.

—Symptoms: General inflammation of the alimentary canal, suppression of urine; hiccough, a disagreeable metallic taste, vomiting, violent colic, excessive thirst, sense of tightness of the throat, anxiety; faintness, giddiness, and cramps and convulsions generally precede death. Treatment: Large doses of simple syrup as warm as can be swallowed, until the stomach rejects the amount it contains. The whites of eggs and large quantities of milk. Hydrated peroxide of iron.

Creosote—carbolic Acid.

—Symptoms: Burning pain, acrid, pungent taste, thirst, vomiting, purging, etc. Treatment: An emetic and the free administration of albumen, as the whites of eggs, or, in the absence of these, milk, or flour and water.

Corrosive Sublimate.—See Mercury under this title.

Deadly Nightshade.

—See Belladonna under this title.

Foxglove, Or Digitalis.

—Symptoms: Loss of strength, feeble, fluttering pulse, faintness, nausea and vomiting and stupor; cold perspiration, dilated pupils, sighing, irregular breathing, and sometimes convulsions. Treatment: After vomiting, give brandy and ammonia in frequently repeated doses, apply warmth to the extremities, and if necessary resort to artificial respiration.

Gases—carbonic Acid, Chlorine, Cyanogen, Hydrosulphuric Acid, Etc.

—Symptoms: Great drowsiness, difficult respiration, features swollen, face blue as in strangulation. Treatment: Artificial respiration, cold douche, friction with stimulating substances to the surface of the body. Inhalation of steam containing preparations of ammonia. Cupping from nape of neck. Internal use of chloroform.

Hellebore, Or Indian Poke.

—Symptoms: Violent vomiting and purging, bloody stools, great anxiety, tremors, vertigo, fainting, sinking of the pulse, cold sweats, and convulsions. Treatment: Excite speedy vomiting by large draughts of warm water, molasses and water, tickling the throat with the finger or a feather, and emetics; give oily and mucilaginous drinks, oily purgatives, and clysters, acids, strong coffee, camphor, and opium.

Hemlock (Conium).

—Symptoms: Dryness of the throat, tremors, dizziness, difficulty of swallowing, prostration, and faintness, limbs powerless or paralyzed, pupils dilated, pulse rapid and feeble; insensibility and convulsions sometimes precede death. Treatment: Empty the stomach and give brandy in ta­ble­spoon­ful doses, with half teaspoonful of spirits of ammonia, frequently repeated, and if much pain and vomiting, give bromide of ammonium in 5-grain doses every half hour. Artificial respiration may be required.

Henbane, Or Hyoscyamus.

—Symptoms: Muscular twitching, inability to articulate plainly, dimness of vision and stupor; later, vomiting and purging, small intermittent pulse, convulsive movement of the extremities, and coma. Treatment: Similar to opium poisoning, which see.

Iodine.

—Symptoms: Burning pain in throat, lacerating pain in the stomach, fruitless effort to vomit, excessive tenderness of the epigastrium. Treatment: {95} Free emesis, prompt administration of starch, wheat flour, or arrowroot, beaten up in water.

Lead—acetate Of Lead, Sugar Of Lead, Dry White Lead, Red Lead, Litharge, Or Pickles, Wine, Or Vinegar Sweetened By Lead.

—Symptoms: When taken in large doses, a sweet but astringent metallic taste exists, with constriction in the throat, pain in the region of the stomach, painful, obstinate, and frequently bloody vomitings, hiccough, convulsions or spasms, and death. When taken in small but long-continued doses it produces colic, called painters’ colic; great pain, obstinate constipation, and in extreme cases paralytic symptoms, especially wrist-drop, with a blue line along the edge of the gums. Treatment: To counteract the poison give alum in water 1 / 2 ounce to a quart; or, better still, Epsom salts or Glauber’s salts, an ounce of either in a quart of water; or dilute sulphuric acid, a teaspoonful to a quart of water. If a large quantity of sugar of lead has been recently taken, empty the stomach by an emetic of sulphate of zinc (1 drachm in a quart of water), giving one-fourth to commence, and repeating smaller doses until free vomiting is produced; castor oil should be given to clear the bowels and injections of oil and starch freely administered. If the body is cold use the warm bath.

Meadow Saffron.—See Belladonna.

Laudanum.—See Opium.

Lobelia—indian Poke.

—Symptoms: Excessive vomiting and purging, pains in the bowels, contraction of the pupils, delirium, coma, and convulsions. Treatment: Mustard over the stomach, and brandy and ammonia.

Mercury—corrosive Sublimate

(bug poisons frequently contain this poison), Red Precipitate, Chinese or English Vermilion.—Symptoms: Acrid, metallic taste in the mouth, immediate constriction and burning in the throat, with anxiety and tearing pains in both stomach and bowels, sickness, and vomiting of various-colored fluids, and sometimes bloody and profuse diarrhea, with difficulty and pain in urinating; pulse quick, small, and hard; faint sensations, great debility, difficult breathing, cramps, cold sweats, syncope, and convulsions. Treatment: If vomiting does not already exist, emetics must be given immediately—white of eggs in continuous large doses, and infusion of catechu afterwards, sweet milk, mixtures of flour and water in successive cupfuls, and to check excessive salivation put a half ounce of chlorate of potash in a tumbler of water, and use freely as a gargle, and swallow a ta­ble­spoon­ful every hour or two.

Morphine.—See Opium.

Nitrate Of Silver (Lunar Caustic).

—Symptoms: Intense pain and vomiting, and purging of blood, mucus, and shreds of mucous membranes; and if these stand they become dark. Treatment: Give freely of a solution of common salt in water, which decomposes the poison, and afterwards flaxseed or slippery-elm-bark tea, and after a while a dose of castor oil.

Opium And All Its Compounds—morphine, Laudanum, Paregoric, Etc.

—Symptoms: Giddiness, drowsiness, increasing to stupor, and insensibility; pulse usually, at first, quick and irregular, and breathing hurried, and afterwards pulse slow and feeble, and respiration slow and noisy; the pupils are contracted and the eyes and face congested, and later, as death approaches, the extremities become cold, the surface is covered with cold, clammy perspiration, and the sphincters relax. The effects of opium and its preparations, in poisonous doses, appear in from a half to two hours from its administration. Treatment: Empty the stomach immediately with an emetic or with the stomach pump. Then give very strong coffee without milk; put mustard plasters on the wrists and ankles; douche the head and chest with cold water, and if the patient is cold and sinking, give brandy, or whisky and ammonia. Belladonna is thought by many to counteract the poisonous effects of opium, and may be given in doses of half to a teaspoonful of the tincture, or 2 grains of the extract, every 20 minutes, until some effect is observed in causing the pupils to expand. Use warmth and friction, and if possible prevent sleep for some hours, for which purpose the patient should be walked about between two persons. Finally, as a last resort, use artificial respiration, persistence in which will sometimes be rewarded with success in apparently hopeless cases. Electricity should also be tried.

Cooley advises as follows: Vomiting must be induced as soon as possible, by means of a strong emetic and tickling the fauces. If this does not succeed, the stomach pump should be applied. The emetic may consist of a half drachm of sulphate of zinc dissolved in a half pint of warm water, of which one-third should {96} be taken at once, and the remainder at the rate of a wineglassful every 5 or 10 minutes, until vomiting commences. When there is much drowsiness or stupor 1 or 2 fluidrachms of tincture of capsicum will be found a useful addition; or one of the formulas for emetic draughts may be taken instead. Infusion of galls, cinchona, or oak bark should be freely administered before the emetic, and water soured with vinegar and lemon juice, after the stomach has been well cleared out. To rouse the system spirit and water or strong coffee may be given. To keep the sufferer awake, rough friction should be applied to the skin, an upright posture preserved, and walking exercise enforced, if necessary. When this is ineffectual cold water may be dashed over the chest, head, and spine, or mild shocks of electricity may be had recourse to. To allow the sufferer to sleep is to abandon him to destruction. Bleeding may be subsequently necessary in plethoric habits, or in threatened congestion. The costiveness that accompanies convalescence may be best met by aromatic aperients; and the general tone of the habit restored by stimulating tonics and the shower bath. The smallest fatal dose of opium in the case of an adult within our recollection was 4 / 2 grains. Children are much more susceptible to the action of opium than of other medicines, and hence the dose of it for them must be diminished considerably below that indicated by the common method of calculation depending on the age.

Oxalic Acid.—See Acids.

Phosphorus—found In Lucifer Matches And Some Rat Poisons.

—Symptoms: Symptoms of irritant poisoning; pain in the stomach and bowels; vomiting, diarrhea; tenderness and tension of the abdomen. Treatment: An emetic is to be promptly given; copious draughts containing magnesia in suspension; mucilaginous drinks. General treatment for inflammatory symptoms.

Poisonous Mushrooms.

—Symptoms: Nausea, heat and pains in the stomach and bowels; vomiting and purging, thirst, convulsions, and faintings; pulse small and frequent, dilated pupil and stupor, cold sweats and death. Treatment: The stomach and bowels are to be cleared by an emetic of ground mustard or sulphate of zinc, followed by frequent doses of Glauber’s or of Epsom salts, and large stimulating clysters. After the poison is evacuated, either may be given with small quantities of brandy and water. But if inflammatory symptoms manifest themselves such stimuli should be avoided, and these symptoms appropriately treated. A hypodermic injection of / 62 grain of atropine is the latest discovered antidote.

Potash.—See Alkali.

Prussic or Hydrocyanic Acid.—See Acids.

Poison Ivy.

—Symptoms: Contact with, and with many persons the near approach to, the vine gives rise to violent erysipelatous inflammation, especially of the face and hands, attended with itching, redness, burning, and swelling, with watery blisters. Treatment: Give saline laxatives, and apply weak sugar of lead and laudanum, or limewater and sweet oil, or bathe the parts freely with spirits of niter. Anointing with oil will prevent poisoning from it.

Saltpeter (Nitrate Of Potash).

—Symptoms: Only poisonous in large quantities, and then causes nausea, painful vomiting, purging, convulsions, faintness, feeble pulse, cold feet and hands, with tearing pains in stomach and bowels. Treatment: Treat as is directed for arsenic, for there is no antidote known, and emptying the stomach and bowels with mild drinks must be relied on.

Savine.

—Symptoms: Sharp pains in the bowels, hot skin, rapid pulse, violent vomiting and sometimes purging, with great prostration. Treatment: Mustard and hot fomentations over the stomach and bowels and ice allowed in the stomach only until the inflammation ceases. If prostration comes on, food and stimulants must be given by injection.

Stramonium, Thorn Apple, Or Jamestown Weed.

—Symptoms: Vertigo, headache, perversion of vision, slight delirium, sense of suffocation, disposition to sleep, bowels relaxed, and all secretions augmented. Treatment: Same as for belladonna.

Snake Bites, Cure For.

—The Inspector of Police in the Bengal Government reports that of 939 cases in which ammonia was freely administered, 207 victims have recovered, and in the cured instances the remedy was not administered till about 3 / 2 hours after the attack; on the average of the fatal cases the corresponding duration of time was 4 / 2 hours.

Strychnine Or Nux Vomica.

—The characteristic symptom is the special influence exerted upon the nervous system, {97} which is manifested by a general contraction of all the muscles of the body, with rigidity of the spinal column. A profound calm soon succeeds, which is followed by a new tetanic seizure, longer than the first, during which the respiration is suspended. These symptoms then cease, the breathing becomes easy, and there is stupor, followed by another general contraction. In fatal cases these attacks are renewed, at intervals, with increasing violence, until death ensues. One phenomenon which is found only in poisonings by substances containing strychnine is that touching any part of the body, or even threatening to do so, instantly produces the tetanic spasm. Antidote: The stomach should be immediately cleared by means of an emetic, tickling the fauces, etc. To counteract the asphyxia from tetanus, etc., artificial respiration should be practiced with diligence and care. “If the poison has been applied externally, we ought immediately to cauterize the part, and apply a ligature tightly above the wound. If the poison has been swallowed for some time we should give a purgative clyster, and administer draughts containing sulphuric ether or oil of turpentine, which in most cases produce a salutary effect. Lastly, injections of chlorine and decoction of tannin are of value.”

According to Ch. Gunther the greatest reliance may be placed on full doses of opium, assisted by venesection, in cases of poisoning by strychnia or nux vomica. His plan is to administer this drug in the form of solution or mixture, in combination with a saline aperient.

Another treatment is to give, if obtainable, 1 ounce or more of bone charcoal mixed with water, and follow with an active emetic; then to give chloroform in teaspoonful doses, in flour and water or glycerine, every few minutes while the spasms last, and afterwards brandy and stimulants, and warmth of the extremities if necessary. Recoveries have followed the free and prompt administration of oils or melted butter or lard. In all cases empty the stomach if possible.

Sulphate of Zinc—White Vitriol.—See Zinc.

Tin—chloride Of Tin, Solution Of Tin (Used By Dyers), Oxide Of Tin, Or Putty Powder.

—Symptoms: Vomiting, pains in the stomach, anxiety, restlessness, frequent pulse, delirium, etc. Treatment: Empty the stomach, and give whites of eggs in water, milk in large quantities, or flour beaten up in water, with magnesia or chalk.

Tartar Emetic.—See Antimony.

Tobacco.

—Symptoms: Vertigo, stupor, fainting, nausea, vomiting, sudden nervous debility, cold sweat, tremors, and at times fatal prostration. Treatment: After the stomach is empty apply mustard to the abdomen and to the extremities, and give strong coffee, with brandy and other stimulants, with warmth to the extremities.

Zinc—oxide Of Zinc, Sulphate Of Zinc, White Vitriol, Acetate Of Zinc.

—Symptoms: Violent vomiting, astringent taste, burning pain in the stomach, pale countenance, cold extremities, dull eyes, fluttering pulse. Death seldom ensues, in consequence of the emetic effect. Treatment: The vomiting may be relieved by copious draughts of warm water. Carbonate of soda, administered in solution, will decompose the sulphate of zinc. Milk and albumen will also act as antidotes. General principles to be observed in the subsequent treatment.

Woorara.

—Symptoms: When taken into the stomach it is inert; when absorbed through a wound it causes sudden stupor and insensibility, frothing at the mouth, and speedy death. Treatment: Suck the wound immediately, or cut it out and tie a cord around the limb between the wound and the heart. Apply iodine, or iodide of potassium, and give it internally, and try artificial respiration.

Antiferments.

The following are tried and useful formulas:

I.—Sulphite (not sulphate) of lime, in fine powder, 1 part; marble dust, ground oyster shells, or chalk, 7 parts; mix, and pack tight, so as to exclude the air.

II.—Sulphite (not sulphate) of potassa, 1 part; new black-mustard seed (ground in a pepper mill), 7 parts; mix, and pack so as to exclude air and moisture perfectly. Dose (of either), / 2 ounce to 1 / 2 ounces per hogshead.

III.—Mustard seed, 14 pounds; cloves and capsicum, of each, 1 / 4 pounds; mix, and grind them to powder in a pepper mill. Dose, / 4 to / 2 pound per hogshead.

A portion of any one of these compounds added to cider, or the like, soon allays fermentation, when excessive, or when it has been renewed. The first formula is preferred when there is a tendency to acidity. The second and third may be advantageously used for wine and beer, as {98} well as for cider. The third compound greatly improves the flavor and the apparent strength of the liquor, and also improves its keeping qualities.

Anchovy Preparations

Extemporaneous Anchovy Sauce.—

Anchovies, chopped small 3 or 4

Butter 3 ounces

Water 2 ounces

Vinegar 1 ounce

Flour 1 ounce

Mix, place over the fire, and stir until the mixture thickens. Then rub through a coarse sieve.

Essence Of Anchovies.

—Remove the bones from 1 pound of anchovies, reduce the remaining portions of the fish to a pulp in a Wedgewood mortar, and pass through a clean hair or brass sieve. Boil the bones and other portions which will not pass through the sieve in 1 pint of water for 15 minutes, and strain. To the strained liquor add 2 / 2 ounces of salt and 2 / 2 ounces of flour, and the pulped anchovies. Let the whole simmer over the fire for three or four minutes; remove from the fire, and when the mixture has cooled a little add 4 ounces of strong vinegar. The product (nearly 3 pounds) may be then bottled, and the corks tied over with bladder, and either waxed or capsuled.

Anchovy Paste.—

Anchovies 7 pounds

Water 9 pints

Salt 1 pound

Flour 1 pound

Capsicum / 4 ounce

Grated lemon peel 1

Mushroom catsup 4 ounces

Anchovy Butter.—

Anchovies, boned and beaten to a paste 1 part

Butter 2 parts

Spice enough

ANTIFOULING COMPOSITIONS: See Paints.

ANTIFREEZING SOLUTION: See Freezing Preventives.

ANTIFRICTION METAL: See Alloys, under Phosphor Bronze and Antifriction Metals.

Antiques, to Preserve.

The best process for the preservation of antique metallic articles consists in a retransformation of the metallic oxides into metal by the electrolytic method. For this purpose a zinc strip is wound around the article and the latter is laid in a soda-lye solution of 5 per cent, or suspended as the negative pole of a small battery in a potassium cyanide solution of 2 per cent. Where this method does not seem practicable it is advisable to edulcorate the objects in running water, in which operation fragile or easily destroyed articles may be protected by winding with gauze; next, they should be carefully dried, first in the air, then with moderate heat, and finally protected from further destruction by immersion in melted paraffine. A dry place is required for storing the articles, since paraffine is not perfectly impermeable to water in the shape of steam.

ANTIRUST COMPOSITIONS: See Rust Preventives.

Antiseptics

Antiseptic Powders.—

I.— Borax 3 ounces

Dried alum 3 ounces

Thymol 22 grains

Eucalyptol 20 drops

Menthol 1 / 2 grains

Phenol 15 grains

Oil of gaultheria 4 drops

Carmine to give a pink tint.

II.— Alum, powdered 50 parts by weight

Borax, powdered 50 parts by weight

Carbolic acid, crystals 5 parts by weight

Oil of eucalyptus 5 parts by weight

Oil of wintergreen 5 parts by weight

Menthol 5 parts by weight

Thymol 5 parts by weight

III.— Boracic acid 10 ounces

Sodium biborate 4 ounces

Alum 1 ounce

Zinc sulphocarbolate 1 ounce

Thymic acid 1 drachm.

Mix thoroughly. For an antiseptic wash dissolve 1 or 2 drachms in a quart of warm water.

IV.—Ektogan is a new dusting powder which is a mixture of zinc hydroxide and dioxide. It is equivalent to about 8 per cent of active oxygen. It is a yellowish-white odorless and tasteless powder, insoluble in water. It is used externally in wounds and in skin diseases as a moist dressing mixed with citric, tartaric, or {99} tannic acid, which causes the liberation of oxygen. With iodides it liberates iodine. It is stated to be strongly antiseptic; it is used in the form of a powder, a gauze, and a plaster.

Antiseptic Pencils.—

I.— Tannin q. s.

Alcohol, q. s 1 part

Ether, q. s 3 parts

Make into a mass, using as an excipient the alcohol and ether previously mixed. Roll into pencils of the desired length and thickness. Then coat with collodion, roll in pure silver leaf, and finally coat with the following solution of gelatine and set aside to dry:

Gelatine 1 drachm

Water 1 pint

Dissolve by the aid of a gentle heat.

When wanted for use, shave away a portion of the covering, dip the pencil into tepid water and apply.

II.—Pencils for stopping bleeding are prepared by mixing:

Purified alum 480 parts by weight

Borax 24 parts by weight

Oxide zinc 2 / 2 parts by weight

Thymol 8 parts by weight

Formalin 4 parts by weight

Melting carefully in a water bath, adding some perfume, and forming mixture into pencils or cones.

A very convenient way to form into pencils where no mold need be made is to take a small glass tube, roll a piece of oil paper around the tube, remove the glass tube, crimp the paper tube thus formed on one end and stand it on end or in a bottle, and pour the melted solution in it and leave until cool, then remove the paper.

Antiseptic Paste (Poison) for Organic Specimens.—

(a) Wheat flour 16 ounces

Beat to a batter with cold water 16 fluidounces

Then pour into boiling water 32 fluidounces

(b) Pulverized gum arabic 2 ounces

Dissolve in boiling water 4 fluidounces

(c) Pulverized alum 2 ounces

Dissolve in boiling water 4 fluidounces

(d) Acetate of lead 2 ounces

Dissolve in boiling water 4 fluidounces

(e) Corrosive sublimate 10 grains

Mix (a) and (b) while hot and continue to simmer; meanwhile stir in (c) and mix thoroughly; then add (d). Stir briskly, and pour in the dry corrosive sublimate. This paste is very poisonous. It is used for anatomical work and for pasting organic tissue, labels on skeletons, etc.

Mouth Antiseptics.

—I.—Thymic acid, 25 centigrams (3 / 4 grains): benzoic acid, 3 grams (45 grains); essence of peppermint, 75 centigrams (10 minims); tincture of eucalyptus, 15 grams (4 / 2 drachms); alcohol, 100 grams (3 ounces). Put sufficient in a glass of water to render latter milky.

II.—Tannin, 12 grams (3 drachms); menthol, 8 grams (2 drachms); thymol, 1 gram (15 grains); tincture benzoin, 6 grams (90 minims); alcohol, 100 grams (3 ounces). Ten drops in a half-glassful of tepid water.

See also Dentifrices for Mouth Washes.

Antiseptic Paste.

—Difficulty is often experienced in applying an antiseptic dressing to moist surfaces, such as the lips after operation for harelip. A paste for this purpose is described by its originator, Socin. The composition is: Zinc oxide, 50 parts; zinc chloride, 5 parts; distilled water, 50 parts. The paste is applied to the wound, previously dried by means of a brush or spatula, allowed to dry on, and to remain in place five or six days. It may then be removed and a fresh application made.

Potassium bicarbonate 32.0 grams

Sodium benzoate 32.0 grams

Sodium borate 8.0 grams

Thymol 0.2 gram

Eucalyptol 2.0 c. cent.

Oil of peppermint 0.2 c. cent.

Oil of wintergreen 0.4 c. cent.

Tincture of cudbear 15.0 c. cent.

Alcohol. 60.0 c. cent.

Glycerine 250.0 c. cent.

Water, enough to make 1,000.0 c. centimeters

Dissolve the salts in 650 cubic centimeters of water, and the thymol, eucalyptol, and oils in the alcohol. Mix the alcoholic solution with the glycerine and add the aqueous liquid, then the tincture of cudbear, and lastly enough water to make 1,000 cubic centimeters. Allow to stand a few days, then filter, adding a little magnesium carbonate to the filter, if necessary, to get a brilliant filtrate.

This is from the Formulary of the Bournemouth Pharmaceutical Association, as reported in the Canadian Pharmaceutical Association: {100}

Alkaline Glycerine Of Thymol.—

Sodium bicarbonate 100 grains

Sodium biborate 200 grains

Sodium benzoate 80 grains

Sodium salicylate 40 grains

Menthol 2 grains

Pumilio pine oil 4 minims

Wintergreen oil 2 minims

Thymol 4 grains

Eucalyptol 12 minims

Compound Solution Of Thymol.—

A

Benzoic acid 64 grains

Borax 64 grains

Boric acid 128 grains

Distilled water 6 ounces

Dissolve.

B

Thymol 20 grains

Menthol 6 grains

Eucalyptol 4 minims

Oil of wintergreen 4 minims

Oil of peppermint 2 minims

Oil of thyme 1 minim

Alcohol (90 per cent) 3 ounces

Dissolve.

Mix solutions A and B, make up to 20 fluidounces with distilled water, and filter.

Oil Of Cinnamon As An Antiseptic.

—Oil of cinnamon in a 9-per-cent emulsion, when used upon the hands, completely sterilizes them. A 7- to 8-per-cent emulsion is equal to a 1-per-cent solution of corrosive sublimate and is certainly far more agreeable to use. Oil of thyme in an 11-per-cent solution is equal to a 7-per-cent solution of cinnamon oil.

Green Coloring For Antiseptic Solutions.

—The safest coloring substance for use in a preparation intended either for internal administration or for application to the skin is the coloring matter of leaves, chlorophyll. A tincture of spinach or of grass made by macerating 2 ounces of the freshly cut leaves in a pint of alcohol for five days will be found to give good results. If the pure coloring substance is wanted the solvent should be evaporated off.

Antiseptic Bromine Solution.—

Bromine 1 ounce

Sodium chloride 8 ounces

Water 8 pints

Dissolve the sodium chloride in the water and add the bromine. This solution is to be diluted, when applied to broken skin surfaces, 1 part with 15 parts of water.

Substitute For Rubber Gloves.

—Murphy has found that a 4-, 6-, or 8-per-cent solution of gutta-percha in benzine, when applied to the hands of the surgeon or the skin of the patient, will seal these surfaces with an insoluble, impervious, and practically imperceptible coating—a coating that will not allow the secretions of the skin to escape, and will not admit secretions, blood, or pus into the crevices of the skin. At the same time it does not impair the sense of touch nor the pliability of the skin. A similar solution in acetone also meets most of the requirements.

Murphy’s routine method of hand preparation is as follows: First, five to seven minutes’ scrubbing with spirits of green soap and running hot water; second, three minutes’ washing with alcohol; third, when the hands are thoroughly dried, the gutta-percha solution is poured over the hands and forearms, care being taken to fill in around and beneath the nails. The hands must be kept exposed to the air with the fingers separated until thoroughly dry. The coating is very thin and can be recognized only by its glazed appearance. It will resist soap and water, but is easily removed by washing in benzine. The hands can be washed in bichloride or any of the antiseptic solutions without interfering with the coating or affecting the skin. If the operations be many, or prolonged, the coating wears away from the tips of the fingers, but is easily renewed. For the remaining portion of the hands one application is sufficient for a whole morning’s work.

The 4-per-cent solution of rubber wears better on the tips of the fingers, in handling instruments, sponges, and tissues than the acetone solution.

For the abdomen the acetone solution has the advantage, and it dries in three to four seconds after its application, while the benzine solution takes from three to four and a half minutes to make a dry, firm coating.

The preparation of the patient’s skin consists in five minutes’ scrubbing with spirits of green soap, washing with ether, followed by alcohol. The surface is then swabbed over thoroughly with the benzine or acetone solution.

The gutta-percha solution is prepared by dissolving the pure gutta-percha chips in sterile benzine or acetone. These solutions do not stand boiling, as this impairs the adhesiveness and elasticity of the coating.

ANTISEPTICS FOR CAGED BIRDS: See Veterinary Formulas. {101}

APOLLINARIS: See Waters.

APPLE SYRUP: See Essences and Extracts.

AQUA FORTIS FOR BRIGHT LUSTER: See Castings.

AQUA FORTIS FOR THE TOUCHSTONE: See Gold.

AQUARIUM CEMENTS: See Adhesives.

AQUARIUM PUTTY: See Putty.

ARGENTAN: See Alloys.

ARMENIAN CEMENT: See Adhesives under Jewelers’ Cements.

ARMS, OIL FOR: See Lubricants.

ARNICA SALVE: See Ointments.

ARSENIC ALLOYS: See Alloys.

ASBESTOS CEMENT: See Adhesives.

ASBESTOS FABRIC: See Fireproofing.

ASPHALT AS AN INGREDIENT OF INDIA RUBBER: See Rubber.

ASPHALT IN PAINTING: See Paint.

ASPHALT VARNISHES: See Varnishes.

ASSAYING: See Gold.

Asthma Cures.

—Asthma Papers.—I.—Impregnate bibulous paper with the following: Extract of stramonium, 10; potassium nitrate, 17; sugar, 20; warm water, 200 parts. Dry.

II.—Blotting or gray filter paper, 120; potassium nitrate, 60; powdered belladonna leaves, 5; powdered stramonium leaves, 5; powdered digitalis leaves, 5; powdered lobelia, 5; myrrh, 10; olibanum, 10; phellandrium fruits, 5 parts.

Stramonium Candle.—Powdered stramonium leaves, 120; potassium nitrate, 72; Peruvian balsam, 3; powdered sugar, 1; powdered tragacanth, 4 parts. (Water, q. s. to mass; roll into suitable shapes and dry.)

Cleary’s Asthma Fumigating Powder.—Powdered stramonium, 15; powdered belladonna leaves, 15; powdered opium, 2; potassium nitrate, 5.

Asthma Fumigating Powders.—I.—Powdered stramonium leaves, 4; powdered aniseed, 2; potassium nitrate, 2 parts.

II.—Powdered stramonium, 30; potassium nitrate, 5; powdered tea, 15; powdered eucalyptus leaves, 15; powdered Indian hemp, 15; powdered lobelia, 15; powdered aniseed, 2; distilled water, 45 parts. (All the herbal ingredients in coarse powder; moisten with the water in which the potassium nitrate has been previously dissolved, and dry.)

Schiffmann’s Asthma Powder.—Potassium nitrate, 25; stramonium, 70; belladonna leaves, 5 parts.

Neumeyer’s Asthma Powder.—Potassium nitrate, 6 parts; sugar, 4; stramonium, 6; powdered lobelia, 1.

Fischer’s Asthma Powder.—Stramonium, 5 parts; potassium nitrate, 1; powdered Achillea millefolium leaves, 1.

Vorlaender’s Asthma Powder.—Stramonium, 150; lobelia, 80; arnica flowers, 80; potassium nitrate, 30; potassium iodide, 3; naphthol, 1,100 parts.

Asthma Cigarettes.

—I.—Belladonna leaves, 5 parts; stramonium leaves, 5 parts; digitalis leaves, 5 parts; sage leaves, 5 parts; potassium nitrate, 75 parts; tincture of benzoin, 40 parts; boiling water, 1,000 parts. Extract the leaves with the boiling water, filter, and in the filtrate dissolve the salts. Immerse in the fluid sheets of bibulous paper (Swedish filter paper will answer) and let remain for 24 hours. At the end of this time remove, dry, cut into pieces about 2 / 4 by 4 inches, and roll into cigarettes.

II.—Sodium arseniate, 3 grains; extract of belladonna, 8 grains; extract of stramonium, 8 grains. Dissolve the arseniate of sodium in a small quantity of water, and rub it with the two extracts. Then soak up the whole mixture with fine blotting paper, which is dried and cut into 24 equal parts. Each part is rolled up in a piece of cigarette paper. Four or five inhalations are generally sufficient as a dose.

ASTHMA IN CANARIES: See Veterinary Formulas.

ASTRINGENT FOR HORSES: See Veterinary Formulas.

ATOMIC WEIGHTS: See Weights and Measures. {102}

Atropine, Antidote to.

The usual physiological antidotes to the mydriatic alkaloids from belladonna, stramonium, and hyoscyamus are morphine or eserine. Strong tea, coffee, or brandy are usually administered as stimulants. Chief reliance has usually been placed upon a stomach siphon and plenty of water to wash out the contents of the stomach. The best antidote ever reported was that of muscarine extracted by alcohol from the mushroom, Amanita muscaria, but the difficulty of securing the same has caused it to be overlooked and almost forgotten. Experiments with this antidote showed it to be an almost perfect opposite of atropine in its effects upon the animal body and that it neutralized poisonous doses.

Aqua Aromatica.—

Cort. cinnam. chinens 3 parts

Flor. lavandulæ 5 parts

Fol. Menth. pip. 5 parts

Fol. rosmarini 5 parts

Fol. salviæ 10 parts

Fruct. fœniculi 3 parts

Spiritus 70 parts

Aqua 300 parts

Macerate the drugs in the mixed alcohol and water for 24 hours and distill 200 parts.

Aqua Regia.

—Aqua regia consists in principle of 2 parts of hydrochloric acid and 1 part of nitric acid. But this quantity varies according to the shop where it is used for gilding or jewelry, and sometimes the proportion is brought to 4 parts of hydrochloric acid to 1 of nitric acid.

AUTOMOBILES, ANTIFREEZING SOLUTION FOR: See Freezing Preventives.

AXLE GREASE: See Lubricants.

BABBITT METAL: See Alloys.

Baking Powders

I.—Tartaric acid, 3 parts; sodium bicarbonate, 1 part; starch, 0.75 part. Of this baking powder the required amount for 500 parts of flour is about 20 parts for rich cake, and 15 parts for lean cake.

The substances employed must be dry, each having been previously sifted by itself, so that no coarse pieces are present; the starch is mixed with the sodium bicarbonate before the acid is added. When large quantities are prepared the mixing is done by machine; smaller quantities are best mixed together in a spacious mortar, and then passed repeatedly through a sieve. Instead of starch, flour may be used, but starch is preferable, because it interferes with the action of the acid on the alkali.

II.—A formula proposed by Crampton, of the United States Department of Agriculture, as the result of an investigation of the leading baking powders of the market, is:

Potassium bitartrate 2 parts

Sodium bicarbonate 1 part

Cornstarch 1 part

The addition of the starch serves the double purpose of a “filler” to increase the weight of the powder and as a preservative. A mixture of the chemicals alone does not keep well.

The stability of the preparation is increased by drying each ingredient separately by exposure to a gentle heat, mixing at once, and immediately placing in bottles or cans and excluding access of air and consequently of moisture.

This is not a cheap powder; but it is the best that can be made, as to healthfulness.

III.— Sodium acid phosphate 20 parts

Calcium acid phosphate 20 parts

Sodium bicarbonate 25 parts

Starch 35 parts

Caution as to drying the ingredients and keeping them dry must be observed. Even the mixing should be done in a room free from excessive humidity.

IV.—Alum Baking Powder.—

Ammonium alum, anhydrous 15 parts

Sodium bicarbonate 18 parts

Cornstarch, q. s. to make 100 parts.

Mix. The available carbon dioxide yielded is 7 / 2 per cent or 8 per cent.

BALANCE SPRING: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

BALDNESS: See Hair Preparations.

BALL BLUE: See Laundry Preparations.

Balsams:

See also Ointments. {103}

Wild-cherry Balsam.—

Wild-cherry bark 1 ounce

Licorice root 1 ounce

Ipecac 1 ounce

Bloodroot 1 drachm

Sassafras 1 drachm

Compound tincture of opium 1 fluidounce

Fluid extract of cubeb 4 fluidrachms

Moisten the ground drugs with the fluid extract and tincture and enough menstruum consisting of 25 per cent alcohol, and after six or eight hours pack in a percolator, and pour on menstruum until percolation begins. Then cork the orifice, cover the percolator, and allow to macerate for 24 hours. Then percolate to 10 fluidounces, pouring back the first portion of percolate until it comes through clear. In the percolate dissolve / 2 ounce of ammonium chloride and / 2 pound of sugar by cold percolation, adding simple syrup to make 16 fluidounces. Finally add 1 fluidrachm of chloroform.

Balsam Spray Solution.—

Oil of Scotch pine 30 minims

Oil of eucalyptus 1 drachm

Oil of cinnamon 30 minims

Menthol crystals q. s.

Fluid extract of balm-of-Gilead buds 1 drachm

Tincture of benzoin, enough to make 4 ounces

This formula can, of course, be modified to suit your requirements. The oils of eucalyptus and cinnamon can be omitted and such quantities of tincture of tolu and tincture of myrrh incorporated as may be desired.

Birch Balsam.—

Parts by
weight

Alcohol 30,000

Birch juice 3,000

Glycerine 1,000

Bergamot oil 90

Vanillin 10

Geranium oil 50

Water 14,000

BALSAM STAINS, TO REMOVE: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

BANANA BRONZING SOLUTION: See Plating.

BANANA SYRUP: See Essences and Extracts.

BANANA TRICK, THE BURNING: See Pyrotechnics.

BANJO SOUR: See Beverages under Lemonade.

BAR POLISHES: See Polishes.

BARBERS’-ITCH CURE: See Ointments.

BARBERS’ POWDER: See Cosmetics.

BAROMETERS (PAPER): See Hygrometers and Hygroscopes.

BATH, AIR: See Air Bath.

BATH METAL: See Alloys.

BATH POWDER: See Cosmetics.

Bath Tablets, Effervescent.

Tartaric acid 10 parts

Sodium bicarbonate 9 parts

Rice flour 6 parts

A few spoonfuls of this, when stirred into a bathtubful of water, causes a copious liberation of carbon dioxide, which is refreshing. This mixture can be made into tablets by compression, moistening, if necessary, with alcohol. Water, of course, cannot be used in making them, as its presence causes the decomposition referred to. Perfume may be added to this powder, essential oils being a good form. Oil of lavender would be a suitable addition, in the proportion of a fluidrachm or more to the pound of powder. A better but more expensive perfume may be obtained by mixing 1 part of oil of rose geranium with 6 parts of oil of lavender. A perfume still more desirable may be had by adding a mixture of the oils from which Cologne water is made. For an ordinary quality the following will suffice:

Oil of lavender 4 fluidrachms

Oil of rosemary 4 fluidrachms

Oil of bergamot 1 fluidounce

Oil of lemon 2 fluidounces

Oil of clove 30 minims

For the first quality the following may be taken:

Oil of neroli 6 fluidrachms

Oil of rosemary 3 fluidrachms

Oil of bergamot 3 fluidrachms

Oil of cedrat 7 fluidrachms

Oil of orange peel 7 fluidrachms

A fluidrachm or more of either of these mixtures may be used to the pound, as in the case of lavender.

These mixtures may also be used in the preparation of a bath powder {104} (non-effervescent) made by mixing equal parts of powdered soap and powdered borax.

BATH-TUB ENAMEL: See Varnishes.

BATH-TUB PAINTS: See Paint.

Battery Fillers and Solutions.

I.—In the so-called dry batteries the exciting substance is a paste instead of a fluid; moisture is necessary to cause the reaction. These pastes are generally secret preparations. One of the earlier “dry” batteries is that of Gassner. The apparatus consists of a containing vessel of zinc, which forms the positive element; the negative one is a cylinder of carbon, and the space between is filled with a paste, the recipe for which is:

Oxide of zinc 1 part

Sal ammoniac 1 part

Plaster 3 parts

Chloride of zinc 1 part

Water 2 parts

The usual form of chloride-of-silver battery consists of a sealed cell containing a zinc electrode, the two being generally separated by some form of porous septum. Around the platinum or silver electrode is cast a quantity of silver chloride. This is melted and generally poured into molds surrounding the metallic electrode. The exciting fluid is either a solution of ammonium chloride, caustic potassa, or soda, or zinc sulphate. As ordinarily constructed, these cells contain a paste of the electrolyte, and are sealed up hermetically in glass or hard-rubber receptacles.

II.—The following formula is said to yield a serviceable filling for dry batteries:

Charcoal 3 ounces

Graphite 1 ounce

Manganese dioxide 3 ounces

Calcium hydrate 1 ounce

Arsenic acid 1 ounce

Glucose mixed with dextrine or starch 1 ounce

Intimately mix, and then work into a paste of proper consistency with a saturated solution of sodium and ammonium chlorides containing one-tenth of its volume of a mercury-bichloride solution and an equal volume of hydrochloric acid. Add the fluid gradually, and well work up the mass.

III.— Calcium chloride, crystallized 30 parts

Calcium chloride, granulated 30 parts

Ammonium sulphate 15 parts

Zinc sulphate 25 parts

Solutions For Batteries.

—The almost exclusively employed solution of sal ammoniac (ammonium chloride) presents the drawback that the zinc rods, glasses, etc., after a short use, become covered with a fine, yellow, very difficultly soluble, basic zinc salt, whereby the generation of the electric current is impaired, and finally arrested altogether. This evil may be remedied by an admixture of cane sugar. For a battery of ordinary size about 20 to 25 grams of sugar, dissolved in warm water, is sufficient per 50 to 60 grams of sal ammoniac. After prolonged use only large crystals (of a zinc saccharate) form, which, however, become attached only to the zinc rod in a few places, having very little disadvantageous effect upon the action of the batteries and being easy to remove, owing to their ready solubility.

BAUDOIN METAL: See Alloys.

Bay Rum.

I.— Oil of bay 1 drachm

Alcohol 18 ounces

Water 18 ounces

Mix and filter through magnesia.

II.— Bay-leaf otto / 2 ounce

Magnesium carbonate / 2 ounce

Jamaica rum 2 pints

Alcohol 3 pints

Water 3 pints

Triturate the otto with the magnesium carbonate, gradually adding the other ingredients, previously mixed, and filter. If the rum employed contains sufficient sugar or mucilaginous matter to cause any stickiness to be felt on the skin, rectification will be necessary.

BEAR FAT: See Fats.

BEARING LUBRICANT: See Lubricants.

BEARING METAL: See Babbitt Metal, Bearing Metal, and Phosphor Bronze, under Alloys.

BEDBUG DESTROYERS: See Insecticides.

Beef, Iron, and Wine.

Extract of beef 512 grains

Detannated sherry wine 26 ounces

Alcohol 4 ounces

Citrate of iron and ammonia 256 grains

Simple sirup 12 ounces

Tincture of orange 2 ounces

Tincture of cardamom co. 1 ounce

Citric acid 10 grains

Water, enough to make 4 pints

Let stand 24 hours, agitate frequently, and filter. See that the orange is fresh.

BEEF PEPTONOIDS: See Peptonoids.

BEEF PRESERVATIVES: See Foods.

BEEF TEA: See Beverages.

BEERS, ALCOHOL IN: See Alcohol.

BEER, GINGER, HOP-BITTER, SCOTCH, AND SPRUCE: See Beverages.

Beer, Restoration of Spoiled.

I.—Powdered chalk is poured into the cask and allowed to remain in the beer until completely precipitated.

II.—The liquor of boiled raisins may be poured into the beer, with the result that the sour taste of the beer is disguised.

III.—A small quantity of a solution of potash will remove the sour taste of beer. Too much potash must not be added; otherwise the stomach will suffer. Beer thus restored will not keep long.

IV.—If the beer is not completely spoiled it may be restored by the addition of coarsely powdered charcoal.

V.—If the addition of any of the above-mentioned substances should affect the taste of the beer, a little powdered zingiber may be used to advantage. Syrup or molasses may also be employed.

Bees, Foul Brood in.

“Foul brood” is a contagious disease to which bees are subject. It is caused by bacteria and its presence may be known by the bees becoming languid. Dark, stringy, and elastic masses are found in the bottom of the cells, while the caps are sunken or irregularly punctured. Frequently the disease is said to be accompanied by a peculiar offensive odor. Prompt removal of diseased colonies, their transfer to clean and thoroughly disinfected hives, and feeding on antiseptically treated honey or syrup are the means taken for the prevention and cure of the disease. The antiseptics used are salicylic acid, carbolic acid, or formic acid. Spraying the brood with any one of these remedies in a solution and feeding with a honey or syrup medicated with them will usually be all that is required by way of treatment. It is also said that access to salt water is important for the health of bees.

BEETLE POWDER: See Insecticides.

BELL METAL: See Alloys.

BELLADONNA, ANTIDOTES TO: See Antidotes and Atropine.

Belt Pastes for Increasing Adhesion.

I.— Tallow 50 parts

Caster oil, crude 20 parts

Fish oil 20 parts

Colophony 10 parts

Melt on a moderate fire and stir until the mass cools.

II.—Melt 250 parts of gum elastic with 250 parts of oil of turpentine in an iron, well-closed crucible at 122° F. (caution!) and mix well with 200 parts of colophony. After further melting add 200 parts of yellow wax and stir carefully. Melt in 750 parts of heated train oil, 250 parts of tallow, and to this add, with constant stirring, the first mixture when the latter is still warm, and let cool slowly with stirring. This grease is intended for cotton belts.

III.— Gutta-percha 40 parts

Rosin 10 parts

Asphalt 15 parts

Petroleum 60 parts

Heat in a glass vessel on the water bath for a few hours, until a uniform solution is obtained. Let cool and add 15 parts of carbon disulphide and allow the mixture to stand, shaking it frequently.

Directions for Use.—The leather belts to be cemented should first be roughened at the joints, and after the cement has been applied they should be subjected to a strong pressure between warm rollers, whereupon they will adhere together with much tenacity.

Preservation Of Belts.

—In a well-covered iron vessel heat at a temperature of 50° C. (152° F.) 1 part by weight of caoutchouc, cut in small pieces, with 1 part by weight of rectified turpentine. When the caoutchouc is dissolved add 0.8 part of colophony, stir until this is dissolved, and add to the mixture 0.1 part of yellow wax. Into another vessel of suitable size pour 3 parts of fish oil, add 1 part of tallow, and heat the mixture until the tallow is melted; then pour on the contents of the first vessel, constantly stirring—an operation to be continued until the matter is cooled and congealed. This grease is to be rubbed {106} on the inside of the belts from time to time, while they are in use. The belts run easily and do not slip. The grease may also serve for improving old belts. For this purpose the grease should be rubbed on both sides in a warm place. A first layer is allowed to soak in, and another applied.

To Make A Belt Pull.

—Hold a piece of tar soap on the inside of the belt while it is running.

BELT CEMENT: See Adhesives.

BELT GLUE: See Adhesives.

BELT LUBRICANT: See Lubricants.

BÉNÉDICTINE: See Wines and Liquors.

Benzine

Benzine, To Color Green.

—Probably the simplest and cheapest as well as the best method of coloring benzine green is to dissolve in it sufficient oil soluble aniline green of the desired tint to give the required shade.

Purification Of Benzine.

—Ill-smelling benzine, mixed with about 1 to 2 per cent of its weight of free fatty acid, will dissolve therein. One-fourth per cent of tannin is added and all is mixed well. Enough potash or soda lye, or even lime milk, is added until the fatty acids are saponified, and the tannic acid is neutralized, shaking repeatedly. After a while the milky liquid separates into two layers, viz., a salty, soapy, mud-sediment and clear, colorless, and almost odorless benzine above. This benzine, filtered, may be employed for many technical purposes, but gives an excellent, pure product upon a second distillation.

Fatty acid from tallow, olive oil, or other fats may be used, but care should be taken that they have as slight an odor of rancid fat as possible. The so-called elaine or olein—more correctly oleic acid—of the candle factories may likewise be employed, but it should first be agitated with a / 10-per-cent soda solution to get rid of the bad-smelling fatty acids, especially the butyric acid.

The Prevention Of The Inflammability Of Benzine.

—A mixture of 9 volumes tetrachloride and 1 volume of benzine is practicably inflammable. The flame is soon extinguished by itself.

Substitute for Benzine as a Cleansing Agent.—

I.— Chloroform 75 parts

Ether 75 parts

Alcohol 600 parts

Decoction of quillaya bark 22,500 parts

Mix.

II.— Acetic ether, technically pure 10 parts

Amyl acetate 10 parts

Ammonia water 10 parts

Alcohol dilute 70 parts

Mix.

III.— Acetone 1 part

Ammonia water 1 part

Alcohol dilute 1 part

Mix.

Deodorizing Benzine.—

I.— Benzine 20 ounces

Oil of lavender 1 fluidrachm

Potassium dichromate 1 ounce

Sulphuric acid 1 fluidounce

Water 20 fluidounces

Dissolve the dichromate in the water, add the acid and, when the solution is cold, the benzine. Shake every hour during the day, allow to stand all night, decant the benzine, wash with a pint of water and again decant, then add the oil of lavender.

II.—First add to the benzine 1 to 2 per cent of oleic acid, which dissolves. Then about a quarter of 1 per cent of tannin is incorporated by shaking. A sufficient quantity of caustic potassa solution, or milk of lime, to combine with the acids is then well shaken into the mixture, and the whole allowed to stand. The benzine rises to the top of the watery fluid, sufficiently deodorized and decolorized for practical purposes.

III.—To 1,750 parts of water add 250 parts of sulphuric acid, and when it has cooled down add 30 parts of potassium permanganate and let dissolve. Add this solution to 4,500 parts of benzine, stir well together, and set aside for 24 hours. Now decant the benzine and to it add a solution of 7 / 2 parts of potassium permanganate and 15 parts of sodium hydrate in 1,000 parts of water, and agitate the substances well together. Let stand until the benzine separates, then draw off.

IV.—Dissolve 3 parts of litharge and 18 parts of sodium hydrate in 40 parts of water. Add this to 200–250 parts of benzine and agitate well together for two minutes, then let settle and draw off the benzine. Rinse the latter by agitating {107} it with plenty of clear water, let settle, draw off the benzine, and, if necessary, repeat the operation.

BENZINE, CLEANING WITH: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods, under Miscellaneous Methods.

BENZOIC ACID IN FOOD: See Food.

BENZOIN SOAP: See Soap.

Benzoparal:

A neutral, bland, oily preparation of benzoin, useful for applying various antiseptics by the aid of an atomizer, nebulizer, or vaporizer. Can be used plain or in combination with other easily dissolved medicinals.

Paraffine, liquid 16 ounces

Gum benzoin 1 ounce

Digest on a sand bath for a half hour and filter.

Beverages

Ginger Ale And Ginger Beer:

Old-fashioned Ginger Beer.—

Lemons, large and sound 6 only

Ginger, bruised 3 ounces

Sugar 6 cups

Yeast, compressed / 4 cake

Boiling water 4 gallons

Water enough

Slice the lemons into a large earthenware vessel, removing the seed. Add the ginger, sugar, and water. When the mixture has cooled to lukewarmness, add the yeast, first diffused in a little water. Cover the vessel with a piece of cheese cloth, and let the beer stand 24 hours. At the end of that time strain and bottle it. Cork securely, but not so tightly that the bottles would break before the corks would fly out, and keep in a cool place.

Ginger Beer.

—Honey gives the beverage a peculiar softness and, from not having fermented with yeast, is the less violent in its action when opened. Ingredients: White sugar, / 4 pound; honey, / 4 pound; bruised ginger, 5 ounces; juice of sufficient lemons to suit the taste; water, 4 / 2 gallons. Boil the ginger in 3 quarts of the water for half an hour, then add the ginger, lemon juice, and honey, with the remainder of the water; then strain through a cloth; when cold, add the quarter of the white of an egg and a teaspoonful of essence of lemon. Let the whole stand for four days before bottling. This quantity will make a hundred bottles.

Ginger Beer Without Yeast.—

Ginger, bruised 1 / 2 pounds

Sugar 20 pounds

Lemons 1 dozen

Honey 1 pound

Water enough

Boil the ginger in 3 gallons of water for half an hour; add the sugar, the lemons (bruised and sliced), the honey, and 17 gallons of water. Strain and, after three or four days, bottle.

Package Pop.—

Cream of tartar 3 ounces

Ginger, bruised 1 ounce

Sugar 24 ounces

Citric acid 2 drachms

Put up in a package, and direct that it be shaken in 1 / 2 gallons of boiling water, strained when cooled, fermented with 1 ounce of yeast, and bottled.

Ginger-ale Extract.—

I.— Jamaica ginger, coarse powder 4 ounces

Mace, powder / 2 ounce

Canada snakeroot, coarse powder 60 grains

Oil of lemon 1 fluidrachm

Alcohol 12 fluidounces

Water 4 fluidounces

Magnesium carbonate or purified talcum 1 av. ounce

Mix the first four ingredients, and make 16 fluidounces of tincture with the alcohol and water, by percolation. Dissolve the oil of lemon in a small quantity of alcohol, rub with magnesia or talcum, add gradually with constant trituration the tincture, and filter. The extract may be fortified by adding 4 avoirdupois ounces of powdered grains of paradise to the ginger, etc., of the above before extraction with alcohol and water.

II.— Capsicum, coarse powder 8 ounces

Water 6 pints

Essence of ginger 8 fluidounces

Diluted alcohol 7 fluidounces

Vanilla extract 2 fluidounces

Oil of lemon 20 drops

Caramel 1 fluidounce

Boil the capsicum with water for three hours, occasionally replacing the water lost by evaporation; filter, concentrate the filtrate on a hot water bath to the consistency of a thin extract, add the remaining ingredients, and filter. {108}

III.— Jamaica ginger, ground 12 ounces

Lemon peel, fresh, cut fine 2 ounces

Capsicum, powder 1 ounce

Calcined magnesia 1 ounce

Alcohol sufficient

Water sufficient

Extract the mixed ginger and capsicum by percolation so as to obtain 16 fluidounces of water, set the mixture aside for 24 hours, shaking vigorously from time to time, then filter, and pass through the filter enough of a mixture of 2 volumes of alcohol and 1 of water to make the filtrate measure 32 fluidounces. In the latter macerate the lemon peel for 7 days, and again filter.

Ginger Beer.—

Brown sugar 2 pounds

Boiling water 2 gallons

Cream of tartar 1 ounce

Bruised ginger root 2 ounces

Infuse the ginger in the boiling water, add the sugar and cream of tartar; when lukewarm strain; then add half pint good yeast. Let it stand all night, then bottle; one lemon and the white of an egg may be added to fine it.

Lemon Beer.—

Boiling water 1 gallon

Lemon, sliced 1

Ginger, bruised 1 ounce

Yeast 1 teacupful

Sugar 1 pound

Let it stand 12 to 20 hours, and it is ready to be bottled.

Hop Beer.—

Water 5 quarts

Hops 6 ounces

Boil 3 hours, strain the liquor, add:

Water 5 quarts

Bruised ginger 4 ounces

and boil a little longer, strain, and add 4 pounds of sugar, and when milk-warm, 1 pint of yeast. Let it ferment; in 24 hours it is ready for bottling.

Œnanthic Ether As A Flavoring For Ginger Ale.

—A fruity, vinous bouquet and delightful flavor are produced by the presence of œnanthic ether or brandy flavor in ginger ale. This ether throws off a rich, pungent, vinous odor, and gives a smoothness very agreeable to any liquor or beverage of which it forms a part. It is a favorite with “brandy sophisticators.” Add a few drops of the ether (previously dissolved in eight times its bulk of Cologne spirit) to the ginger-ale syrup just before bottling.

Soluble Extract Of Ginger Ale.

—Of the following three formulas the first is intended for soda-fountain use, the second is a “cheap” extract for the bottlers who want a one-ounce-to-the-gallon extract, and the third is a bottlers’ extract to be used in the proportion of three ounces to a gallon of syrup. This latter is a most satisfactory extract and has been sold with most creditable results, both as to clearness of the finished ginger ale and delicacy of flavor.

It will be noted that in these formulas oleoresin of ginger is used in addition to the powdered root. Those who do not mind the additional expense might use one-fourth of the same quantity of volatile oil of ginger instead. This should develop an excellent flavor, since the oil is approximately sixteen times as strong as the oleoresin, and has the additional advantage of being free from resinous extractive.

The following are the formulas:

I.—(To be used in the proportion of 4 ounces of extract to 1 gallon of syrup.)

Jamaica ginger, in fine powder 8 pounds

Capsicum, in fine powder 6 ounces

Alcohol, a sufficient quantity.

Mix the powders intimately, moisten them with a sufficient quantity of alcohol, and set aside for 4 hours. Pack in a cylindrical percolator and percolate with alcohol until 10 pints of percolate have resulted. Place the percolate in a bottle of the capacity of 16 pints, and add to it 2 fluidrachms of oleoresin of ginger; shake, add 2 / 2 pounds of finely powdered pumice stone, and agitate thoroughly at intervals of one-half hour for 12 hours. Then add 14 pints of water in quantities of 1 pint at each addition, shaking briskly meanwhile. This part of the operation is most important. Set the mixture aside for 24 hours, agitating it strongly every hour or so during that period. Then take

Oil of lemon 1 / 2 fluidounces

Oil of rose (or geranium) 3 fluidrachms

Oil of bergamot 2 fluidrachms

Oil of cinnamon 3 fluidrachms

Magnesium carbonate 3 fluidounces

Rub the oils with the magnesia in a large mortar and add 9 ounces of the clear portion of the ginger mixture to which have been previously added 2 ounces of alcohol, and continue trituration, rinsing out the mortar with the ginger mixture. Pass the ginger mixture through a double filter and add through the filter the mixture of oils and magnesia; finally pass enough water through the filter to make the resulting product measure 24 pints, or 3 gallons. If the operator should desire an extract of more or less pungency, he may obtain his desired effect by increasing or decreasing the quantity of powdered capsicum in the formula.

II.—(To be used in the proportion of 1 ounce to 1 gallon of syrup.)

Ginger, in moderately fine powder 6 pounds

Capsicum, in fine powder 2 / 2 pounds

Alcohol, a sufficient quantity.

Mix, moisten the powder with 3 pints of alcohol, and set aside in a suitable vessel for 4 hours. Then pack the powder firmly in a cylindrical percolator, and percolate until 6 pints of extract are obtained. Set this mixture aside and label Percolate No. 1, and continue the percolation with 1 / 2 pints of alcohol mixed with 1 / 2 pints of water. Set the resultant tincture aside, and label Percolate No. 2.

Take oleoresin ginger 5 fluid ounces and add to Percolate No. 1. Then take:

Oil of lemon 1 / 2 fluidounces

Oil of cinnamon 1 fluidounce

Oil of geranium / 2 fluidounce

Magnesium carbonate 8 ounces

Triturate the oils with the magnesia, add gradually Percolate No. 2, and set aside. Then place Percolate No. 1 in a large bottle, add 3 / 4 pounds of finely powdered pumice stone, and shake at intervals of half an hour for six hours. This being completed, add the mixture of oils, and later 10 pints of water, in quantities of / 2 a pint at a time, shaking vigorously after each solution. Let the mixture stand for 24 hours, shaking it at intervals, and then pass it through a double filter. Finally add enough water through the filter to make the product measure 24 pints, or 3 gallons.

III.—(To be used in proportion of 3 ounces to 1 gallon of syrup.)

Ginger, in moderately fine powder 8 pounds

Capsicum, in moderately fine powder 2 pounds

Alcohol, q. s.

Mix, moisten with alcohol, and set aside as in the preceding formula; then percolate with alcohol until 10 pints of extract are obtained. To this add oleoresin of ginger 3 drachms, and place in a large bottle. Add 2 / 2 pounds of powdered pumice stone, and shake as directed for formula No. 1. Then add 14 pints of water, in quantities of 1 pint at a time, shaking vigorously after each addition. Set the mixture aside for 24 hours, shaking at intervals. Then take:

Oil of lemon 1 / 2 fluidounces

Oil of geranium / 2 fluidounce

Oil of cinnamon 3 fluidrachms

Magnesia carbonate 3 ounces

Rub these in a mortar with the magnesia, and add 9 ounces of the clear portion of the ginger mixture mixed with 2 ounces of alcohol, rubbing the mixture until it becomes smooth. Prepare a double filter, and filter the ginger mixture, adding through the filter the mixture of oils and magnesia. Finally add enough water through the filter to make the final product measure 24 pints, or 3 gallons.

If these formulas are properly manipulated the extracts should keep for a reasonable length of time without a precipitate. If, however, a precipitate occur after the extract has stood for a week, it should be refiltered.

Lemonades:

Lemonade Preparations For The Sick.

—I.—Strawberry Lemonade: Citric acid, 6 parts; water, 100 parts; sugar, 450 parts; strawberry syrup, 600 parts; cherry syrup, 300 parts; claret, 450 parts; aromatic tincture, ad lib.

II.—Lemonade Powder: Sodium bicarbonate, 65; tartaric acid, 60; sugar, 125; lemon oil, 12 drops.

III.—Lemonade juice: Sugar syrup, 200; tartaric acid, 15; distilled water, 100; lemon oil, 3; tincture of vanilla, 6 drops.

IV.—Lemonade Lozenges: Tartaric acid, 10; sugar, 30; gum arabic, 2; powdered starch, 0.5; lemon oil, 6 drops; tincture of vanilla, 25 drops; and sufficient diluted spirit of wine so that 30 lozenges can be made with it.

Lemonade For Diabetics.

—The following is said to be useful for assuaging the thirst of diabetics: {110}

Citric acid 1 part

Glycerine 50 parts

Cognac 50 parts

Distilled water 500 parts

Hot Lemonade.

—Take 2 large, fresh lemons, and wash them clean with cold water. Roll them until soft; then divide each into halves, and use a lemon-squeezer or reamer to express the juice into a small pitcher. Remove all the seeds from the juice, to which add 4 or more ta­ble­spoon­fuls of white sugar, according to taste. A pint of boiling water is now added, and the mixture stirred until the sugar is dissolved. The beverage is very effective in producing perspiration, and should be drunk while hot. The same formula may be used for making cold lemonade, by substituting ice water for the hot water, and adding a piece of lemon peel. If desired, a weaker lemonade may be made by using more water.

Lemonades, Lemon and Sour Drinks for Soda-Water Fountains.

—Plain Lemonade.—Juice of 1 lemon; pulverized sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls; filtered water, sufficient; shaved ice, sufficient.

Mix and shake well. Garnish with fruit, and serve with both spoon and straws.

Huyler’s Lemonade.—Juice of 1 lemon; simple syrup, 2 ounces; soda water, sufficient. Dress with sliced pineapple, and serve with straws. In mixing, do not shake, but stir with a spoon.

Pineapple Lemonade.—Juice of 1 lemon; pineapple syrup, 2 ounces; soda water, sufficient. Dress with fruit. Serve with straws.

Seltzer Lemonade.—Juice of 1 lemon; pulverized sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls. Fill with seltzer. Dress with sliced lemon.

Apollinaris Lemonade.—The same as seltzer, substituting apollinaris water for seltzer.

Limeade.—Juice of 1 lime; pulverized sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls; water, sufficient. Where fresh limes are not obtainable, use bottled lime juice.

Orangeade.—Juice of 1 orange; pulverized sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls; water, sufficient; shaved ice, sufficient. Dress with sliced orange and cherries. Serve with straws.

Seltzer and Lemon.—Juice of 1 lemon; seltzer, sufficient. Serve in a small glass.

Claret Lemonade.—Juice of 1 lemon; pulverized sugar, 3 teaspoonfuls. Make lemonade, pour into a glass containing shaved ice until the glass lacks about one inch of being full. Pour in sufficient claret to fill the glass. Dress with cherries and sliced pineapple.

Claret Punch.—Juice of 1 lemon; pulverized sugar, 3 teaspoonfuls; claret wine, 2 ounces; shaved ice, sufficient. Serve in small glass. Dress with sliced lemon, and fruit in season. Bright red cherries and plums make attractive garnishings.

Raspberry Lemonade.—I.—Juice of 1 lemon; 3 teaspoonfuls powdered sugar; 1 ta­ble­spoon­ful raspberry juice; shaved ice; plain water; shake.

II.—Juice of 1 lemon; 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sugar; / 2 ounce raspberry syrup; shaved ice; water; shake.

Banjo Sour.—Pare a lemon, cut it in two, add a large ta­ble­spoon­ful of sugar, then thoroughly muddle it; add the white of an egg; an ounce of sloe gin; 3 or 4 dashes of abricotine; shake well; strain into a goblet or fizz glass, and fill balance with soda; decorate with a slice of pineapple and cherry.

Orgeat Punch.—Orgeat syrup, 12 drachms; brandy, 1 ounce; juice of 1 lemon.

Granola.—Orange syrup, 1 ounce; grape syrup, 1 ounce; juice of / 2 lemon; shaved ice, q. s. Serve with straws. Dress with sliced lemon or pineapple.

American Lemonade.—One ounce orange syrup; 1 ounce lemon syrup; 1 teaspoonful powdered sugar; 1 dash acid-phosphate solution; / 3 glass shaved ice. Fill with coarse stream. Add slice of orange, and run two straws through it.

Old-Fashioned Lemonade.—Put in a freezer and freeze almost hard, then add the fruits, and freeze very hard. Serve in a silver sherbet cup.

“Ping Pong” Frappé.—Grape juice, unfermented, 1 quart; port wine (California), / 2 pint; lemon syrup, 12 ounces; pineapple syrup, 2 ounces; orange syrup, 4 ounces; Bénédictine cordial, 4 ounces; sugar, 1 pound.

Dissolve sugar in grape juice and put in wine; add the syrup and cordial; serve from a punch bowl, with ladle, into 12-ounce narrow lemonade glass and fill with solid stream; garnish with slice of orange and pineapple, and serve with straw.

Orange Frappé.—Glass half full of fine ice; ta­ble­spoon­ful powdered sugar; / 2 ounce orange syrup; 2 dashes lemon syrup; dash prepared raspberry; / 4 ounce {111} acid-phosphate solution. Fill with soda and stir well; strain into a mineral glass and serve.

Hot Lemonades.—

I.— Lemon essence 4 fluidrachms

Solution of citric acid 1 fluidounce

Syrup, enough to make 32 fluidounces

In serving, draw 2 / 2 fluidounces of the syrup into an 8-ounce mug, fill with hot water, and serve with a spoon.

II.— Lemon 1

Alcohol 1 fluidounce

Solution of citric acid 2 fluidrachms

Sugar 20 av. ounces

Water 20 fluidounces

White of 1 egg

Grate the peel of the lemon, macerate with the alcohol for a day; express; also express the lemon, mix the two, add the sugar and water, dissolve by agitation, and add the solution of citric acid and the white of egg, the latter first beaten to a froth. Serve like the preceding.

Egg Lemonade.

—I.—Break 1 egg into a soda glass, add 1 / 4 ounces lemon syrup, a drachm of lemon juice, and a little shaved ice; then draw carbonated water to fill the glass, stirring well.

II.— Shaved ice / 2 tumblerful

Powdered sugar 4 ta­ble­spoon­fuls

Juice of 1 lemon

Yolk of 1 egg

Shake well, and add carbonated water to fill the glass.

Hot Soda-water Drinks:

Chocolate.

—I.—This may be prepared in two ways, from the powdered cocoa or from a syrup. To prepare the cocoa for use, dry mix with an equal quantity of pulverized sugar and use a heaping teaspoonful to a mug. To prepare a syrup, take 12 ounces of cocoa, 5 pints of water, and 4 pounds of sugar. Reduce the cocoa to a smooth paste with a little warm water. Put on the fire. When the water becomes hot add the paste, and then allow to boil for 3 or 4 minutes; remove from fire and add the sugar; stir carefully while heating, to prevent scorching; when cold add 3 drachms of vanilla; / 2 to / 4 ounce will suffice for a cup of chocolate; top off with whipped cream.

II.— Baker’s fountain chocolate 1 pound

Syrup 1 gallon

Extract vanilla enough

Shave the chocolate into a gallon porcelained evaporating dish and melt with a gentle heat, stirring with a thin-bladed spatula. When melted remove from the fire and add 1 ounce of cold water, mixing well. Add gradually 1 gallon of hot syrup and strain; flavor to suit. Use 1 ounce to a mug.

III.—Hot Egg Chocolate.—Break a fresh egg into a soda tumbler; add 1 / 2 ounces chocolate syrup and 1 ounce cream; shake thoroughly, add hot soda slowly into the shaker, stirring meanwhile; strain carefully into mug; top off with whipped cream and serve.

IV.—Hot Chocolate and Milk.—

Chocolate syrup 1 ounce

Hot milk 4 ounces

Stir well, fill mug with hot soda and serve.

V.—Hot Egg Chocolate.—One egg, 1 / 4 ounces chocolate syrup, 1 teaspoonful sweet cream; shake, strain, add 1 cup hot soda, and 1 ta­ble­spoon­ful whipped cream.

Coffee.

—I.—Make an extract by macerating 1 pound of the best Mocha and Java with 8 ounces of water for 20 minutes, then add hot water enough to percolate 1 pint. One or 2 drachms of this extract will make a delicious cup of coffee. Serve either with or without cream, and let customer sweeten to taste.

II.—Pack / 2 pound of pulverized coffee in a percolator. Percolate with 2 quarts of boiling water, letting it run through twice. Add to this 2 quarts of milk; keep hot in an urn and draw as a finished drink. Add a lump of sugar and top off with whipped cream.

III.—Coffee syrup may be made by adding boiling water from the apparatus to 1 pound of coffee, placed in a suitable filter or coffeepot, until 2 quarts of the infusion are obtained. Add to this 3 pounds of sugar. In dispensing, first put sufficient cream in the cup, add the coffee, then sweeten, if necessary, and mix with the stream from the draught tube.

IV.— Mocha coffee (ground fine) 4 ounces

Java coffee (ground fine) 4 ounces

Granulated sugar 6 pounds

Hot water q. s.

Percolate the coffee with hot water until the percolate measures 72 ounces. Dissolve the sugar in the percolate by agitation without heat and strain.

Hot Egg Orangeade.

—One egg; juice {112} of / 2 orange; 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sugar. Shake, strain, add 1 cup of hot water. Stir, serve with nutmeg.

Hot Egg Bouillon.

—One-half ounce liquid extract beef; 1 egg; salt and pepper; hot water to fill 8-ounce mug. Stir extract, egg, and seasoning together; add water, still stirring; strain and serve.

Hot Celery Punch.

—One-quarter ounce of clam juice; / 4 ounce beef extract; 1 ounce of cream; 4 dashes of celery essence. Stir while adding hot water, and serve with spices.

Chicken Bouillon.

—Two ounces concentrated chicken; / 2 ounce sweet cream and spice. Stir while adding hot water.

Ginger.—

Fluid extract of ginger 2 / 2 ounces

Sugar 40 ounces

Water, to 2 / 2 pints

Take 10 ounces of the sugar and mix with the fluid extract of ginger; heat on the water bath until the alcohol is evaporated. Then mix with 20 ounces of water and shake till dissolved. Filter and add the balance of the water and the sugar. Dissolve by agitation.

Cocoa Syrup.—

I.— Cocoa, light, soluble 4 ounces

Granulated sugar 2 pounds

Boiling hot water 1 quart

Extract vanilla 1 ounce

Dissolve the cocoa in the hot water, by stirring, then add the sugar and dissolve. Strain, and when cold add the vanilla extract.

II.— Cocoa syrup 2 ounces

Cream 1 ounce

Turn on the hot water stream and stir while filling. Top off with whipped cream.

Hot Soda Toddy.—

Lemon juice 2 fluidrachms

Lemon syrup 1 fluidounce

Aromatic bitters 1 fluidrachm

Hot water, enough to fill an 8-ounce mug.

Sprinkle with nutmeg or cinnamon.

Hot Orange Phosphate.—

Orange syrup 1 fluidounce

Solution of acid phosphate 1 fluidrachm

Hot water, enough to fill an 8-ounce mug.

It is prepared more acceptably by mixing the juice of half an orange with acid phosphate, sugar, and hot water.

Pepsin Phosphate.

—One teaspoonful of liquid pepsin; 2 dashes of acid phosphate; 1 ounce of lemon syrup; 1 cup hot water.

Cream Beef Tea.

—Use 1 teaspoonful of liquid beef extract in a mug of hot water, season with salt and pepper, then stir in a ta­ble­spoon­ful of rich cream. Put a teaspoonful of whipped cream on top and serve with flakes.

Cherry Phosphate.

—Cherry-phosphate syrup, 1 / 2 ounces; hot water to make 8 ounces.

Cherry-phosphate syrup is made as follows: Cherry juice, 3 pints; sugar, 6 pounds; water, 1 pint; acid phosphate, 4 ounces. Bring to a boil, and when cool add the acid phosphate.

Celery Clam Punch.

—Clam juice, 2 drachms; beef extract, 1 drachm; cream, 1 ounce; essence of celery, 5 drops; hot water to make 8 ounces.

Claret Punch.

—Claret wine, 2 ounces; sugar, 3 teaspoonfuls; juice of / 2 lemon; hot water to make 8 ounces.

Ginger.

—Extract of ginger, 2 drachms; sugar, 2 drachms; lemon juice, 2 dashes; hot water to make 8 ounces.

Lemon Juice, Plain.

—Fresh lemon juice, 2 / 2 drachms; lemon syrup, 1 ounce; hot water, q. s. to make 8 ounces.

Lime Juice.

—Lime juice, / 4 drachm; lemon syrup, 1 ounce; hot water to make 8 ounces. Mix. Eberle remarks that lemon juice or lime juice enters into many combinations. In plain soda it may be combined with ginger and other flavors, as, for instance, chocolate and coffee.

Lemonade.

—Juice of 1 lemon; powdered sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls; hot water to make 8 ounces. A small piece of fresh lemon peel twisted over the cup lends an added flavor.

Hot Malt.

—Extract of malt, 1 ounce; cherry syrup, 1 ounce; hot water, sufficient to make 8 ounces. Mix.

Malted Milk.

—Horlick’s malted milk, 2 ta­ble­spoon­fuls; hot water, quantity sufficient to make 8 ounces; flavoring to suit. Mix. Essence of coffee, chocolate, etc., and many of the fruit syrups go well with malted milk.

Hot Malted Milk Coffee (Or Chocolate).

—Malted milk, 2 teaspoonfuls; coffee (or chocolate) syrup, 1 ounce; hot water, quantity sufficient to make 8 ounces.

Hot Beef Tea.

—I.—Best beef extract, 1 ta­ble­spoon­ful; sweet cream, 1 ounce; hot {113} water, 7 ounces; pepper, salt, etc., quantity sufficient. Mix.

II.—Extract beef bouillon, 1 teaspoonful; extract aromatic soup herbs (see Condiments), 10 drops; hot soda, 1 cupful. Mix.

III.— Extract of beef 1 teaspoonful

Hot water q. s.

Pepper, salt, and celery salt.

Mix.

Hot Bouillon.—

Beef extract 1 ounce

Hot water, q. s. to make 8 ounces

Pepper, salt, etc. q. s.

Mix.

Clam Bouillon.—

I.— Clam juice 12 drachms

Cream 2 ounces

Hot water, q. s. to make 8 ounces

Mix.

II.— Extract clam bouillon 2 ounces

Prepared milk 2 drachms

Extract of aromatic soup herbs 5 drops

Extract white pepper 5 drops

Hot soda 1 cupful

Mix.

III.—Clam juice may be served with hot water, salt and pepper added. Adding butter makes this bouillon a broth.

It may also be served with milk or cream, lemon juice, tomato catsup, etc. Hot oyster juice may be served in the same way.

Hot Tea.—

I.— Tea syrup sufficient

Hot water, q. s. to make 1 cupful

II.— Loaf sugar 4 cubes

Extract of Oolong tea, about 1 dessertsp’ful

Prepared milk, about 1 dessertsp’ful

Hot soda 1 cupful

Whipped cream 1 ta­ble­spoon­ful

Mix the tea extract, sugar, and prepared milk, pour on water, and dissolve. Top off with whipped cream.

Hot Egg Drinks.

—I.—One-half to 1 ounce liquid extract of beef, 1 egg, salt and pepper to season, hot water to fill an 8-ounce mug. Stir the extract, egg, and seasoning together with a spoon, to get well mixed, add the water, stirring briskly meanwhile; then strain, and serve. Or shake the egg and extract in a shaker, add the water, and mix by pouring back and forth several times, from shaker to mug.

II.—Hot Egg Chocolate.—One to 1 / 2 ounces chocolate syrup, 1 egg, / 2 ounce cream, hot water sufficient to fill an 8-ounce mug.

Mix the syrup, egg, and cream together in an egg-shaker; shake as in making cold drinks; add the hot water, and mix all by pouring back and forth several times, from shaker to mug. Or, prepare by beating the egg with a spoon, add the syrup and cream, mix all quickly with the spoon, and add hot water, stirring constantly, and strain.

III.—Hot Egg Coffee.—One egg, 1 dessertspoonful extract of coffee, 1 teaspoonful sweet cream, 1 ounce syrup. Shake well, strain, and add 1 cupful hot water and top with whipped cream.

IV.—Hot Egg Lemonade.—One egg, juice of 1 lemon, 3 teaspoonfuls powdered sugar. Beat the egg with lemon juice and sugar thoroughly. Mix while adding the water. Serve grated nutmeg and cinnamon. The amount of lemon juice and sugar may be varied to suit different tastes.

V.—Hot Egg Milk.—Two teaspoonfuls sugar, 1 ounce cream, 1 egg, hot milk to fill an 8-ounce mug. Prepare as in hot egg chocolate, top with whipped cream, and sprinkle with nutmeg. If there are no facilities for keeping hot milk, use about 2 ounces of cream, and fill mug with hot water.

VI.—Hot Egg Nogg.—Plain syrup, / 4 ounce; brandy, / 2 ounce; Angostura bitters, 3 drops; 1 egg. Put in shaker and beat well. Strain in 10-ounce mug, and fill with hot milk; finish with whipped cream and nutmeg.

VII.—Hot Egg Phosphate.—Two ounces lemon syrup, 1 egg, / 2 ounce solution of acid phosphate. Mix in a glass, and shake together thoroughly; pour into another glass, heated previously, and slowly draw full of hot water; season with nutmeg.

VIII.—Hot Egg Phosphate.—Break fresh egg into shaker and add / 2 ounce pineapple syrup, / 2 ounce orange syrup, 1 dash phosphate. Shake, without ice, and pour into bouillon cup. Draw cupful of hot water, sprinkle a touch of cinnamon, and serve with wafers.

Fancy Soda Drinks:

Coffee Cream Soda.

—Serve in a 12-ounce glass. Draw 1 / 2 ounces of syrup and 1 ounce of cream. Into the shaker draw 8 ounces of carbonated water, pour into the glass sufficient to fill it to within {114} 1 inch of the top; pour from glass to shaker and back, once or twice, to mix thoroughly; give the drink a rich, creamy appearance, and make it cream sufficiently to fill the glass.

Iced Coffee.

—Serve in a 10-ounce glass. Draw 1 ounce into glass, fill nearly full with ice-cold milk, and mix by stirring.

Egg Malted Milk Coffee.

—Prepare same as malted milk coffee, with the exception of adding the egg before shaking, and top off with a little nutmeg, if desired. This drink is sometimes called coffee light lunch.

Coffee Frappé.

—Serve in a 12-ounce glass. Coffee syrup, 1 / 2 ounces; white of 1 egg; 1 to 1 / 2 ounces of pure, rich, sweet cream; a small portion of fine shaved ice; shake thoroughly to beat the white of the egg light, and then remove the glass, leaving the contents in the shaker. Now fill the shaker two-thirds full, using the fine stream only. Draw as quickly as possible that the drink may be nice and light. Now pour into glass and back, and then strain into a clean glass. Serve at once, and without straws. This should be drunk at once, else it will settle, and lose its lightness and richness.

Coffee Nogg.—

Coffee syrup 2 ounces

Brandy 4 drachms

Cream 2 ounces

One egg.

Coffee Cocktail.—

Coffee syrup 1 ounce

One egg.

Port wine 1 ounce

Brandy 2 drachms

Shake, strain into a small glass, and add soda. Mace on top.

Chocolate And Milk.—

Chocolate syrup 2 ounces

Sweet milk, sufficient.

Fill a glass half full of shaved ice, put in the syrup, and add milk until the glass is almost full. Shake well, and serve without straining. Put whipped cream on top and serve with straws.

Chocolate Frappé.—

• Frozen whipped cream, sufficient.
• Shaved ice, sufficient.

Fill a glass half full of frozen whipped cream, fill with shaved ice nearly to the top, and pour in chocolate syrup. Other syrups may be used, if desired.

Royal Frappé.

—This drink consists of 3 parts black coffee and 1 part of brandy, frozen in a cooler, and served while in a semifrozen state.

Mint Julep.

—One-half tumbler shaved ice, teaspoonful powdered sugar, dash lemon juice, 2 or 3 sprigs of fresh mint. Crush the mint against side of the glass to get the flavor. Then add claret syrup, / 2 ounce; raspberry syrup, 1 / 2 ounces; and draw carbonated water nearly to fill glass. Insert bunch of mint and fill glass, leaving full of shaved ice. Serve with straws, and decorate with fruits of the season.

Grape Glacé.

—Beat thoroughly the whites of 4 eggs and stir in 1 pound of powdered sugar, then add 1 pint grape juice, 1 pint water, and 1 pound more of powdered sugar. Stir well until sugar is dissolved, and serve from a pitcher or glass dish, with ladle.

“Golf Goblet.”

—Serve in a 12-ounce glass; fill two-thirds full of cracked ice, add / 2 ounce pineapple juice, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice, 1 teaspoonful raspberry vinegar. Put spoon in glass, and fill to within one-half inch of top with carbonated water; add shaved ice, heaping full. Put strawberry or cherry on top, and stick slice of orange down side of glass. Serve with spoon and straws.

Goldenade.

—Shaved ice, / 2 tumblerful; powdered sugar; juice of 1 lemon; yolk of 1 egg. Shake well, add soda water from large stream, turn from tumbler to shaker, and vice versa, several times, and strain through julep strainer into a 12-ounce tumbler.

Lunar Blend.

—Take two mixing glasses, break an egg, putting the yolk in one glass, the white into the other; into the glass with the yolk add 1 ounce cherry syrup and some cracked ice; shake, add small quantity soda, and strain into a 12-ounce glass. Into the other mixing glass add 1 ounce plain sweet cream, and beat with bar spoons until well whipped; add / 2 ounce lemon syrup, then transfer it into the shaker, and add soda from fine stream only, and float on top of the one containing the yolk and sherry. Serve with two straws.

Egg Chocolate.—

Chocolate syrup 2 ounces

Cream 4 ounces

White of one egg.

Egg Crême De Menthe.—

Mint syrup 12 drachms

Cream 3 ounces

White of one egg.

Whisky 4 drachms

Egg Sherbet.—

Sherry syrup 4 drachms

Pineapple syrup 4 drachms

Raspberry syrup 4 drachms

One egg.

Cream.

Egg Claret.—

Claret syrup 2 ounces

Cream 3 ounces

One egg.

Royal Mist.—

Orange syrup 1 ounce

Catawba syrup 1 ounce

Cream 2 ounces

One egg.

Banana Cream.—

Banana syrup 12 drachms

Cream 4 ounces

One egg.

Egg Coffee.—

Coffee syrup 2 ounces

Cream 3 ounces

One egg.

Shaved ice.

Cocoa Mint.—

Chocolate syrup 1 ounce

Peppermint syrup 1 ounce

White of one egg.

Cream 2 ounces

The peppermint syrup is made as follows:

Oil of peppermint 30 minims

Syrup simplex 1 gallon

Soda foam 1 ounce

Egg Lemonade.—

Juice of one lemon.

Pulverized sugar 3 teasp’fuls

One egg.

Water, q. s.

Shake well, using plenty of ice, and serve in a small glass.

Nadjy.—

Raspberry juice 1 ounce

Pineapple syrup 1 ounce

One egg.

Cream 2 ounces

Siberian Flip.—

Orange syrup 1 ounce

Pineapple syrup 1 ounce

One egg.

Cream 2 ounces

Egg Orgeat.—

Orgeat syrup 12 drachms

Cream 3 ounces

One egg.

Normona.—

Peach syrup 1 ounce

Grape syrup 1 ounce

Cream 3 ounces

Brandy 2 drachms

One egg.

Silver Fizz.—

Catawba syrup 2 ounces

Holland gin 2 drachms

Lemon juice 8 dashes

White of one egg.

Golden Fizz.—

Claret syrup 2 ounces

Holland gin / 4 ounce

Lemon juice 8 dashes

Yolk of one egg.

Rose Cream.—

Rose syrup 12 drachms

Cream 4 ounces

White of one egg.

Violet Cream.—

Violet syrup 12 drachms

Cream 4 ounces

White of one egg.

Rose Mint.—

Rose syrup 6 drachms

Mint syrup 6 drachms

Cream 3 ounces

White of one egg.

Currant Cream.—

Red-currant syrup 2 ounces

Cream 3 ounces

One egg.

Quince Flip.—

Quince syrup 2 ounces

Cream 3 ounces

One egg.

Shaved ice.

Coffee Nogg.—

Coffee syrup 2 ounces

Brandy 4 drachms

Cream 2 ounces

One egg.

Egg Sour.—

Juice of one lemon.

Simple syrup 12 drachms

One egg.

Shake, strain, and fill with soda. Mace on top. {116}

Lemon Sour.—

Lemon syrup 12 drachms

Juice of one lemon.

One egg.

Raspberry Sour.—

Raspberry syrup 12 drachms

One egg.

Juice of one lemon.

Yama.—

One egg.

Cream 2 ounces

Sugar 2 teaspoonfuls

Jamaica rum / 2 ounce

Shake well, put into cup, and add hot water. Serve with whipped cream, and sprinkle mace on top.

Prairie Oyster.—

Cider vinegar 2 ounces

One egg.

Put vinegar into glass, and break into it the egg. Season with salt and pepper. Serve without mixing.

Fruit Frappé.—

Granulated gelatin 1 ounce

Juice of six lemons.

Beaten whites of two eggs.

Water 5 quarts

Syrup 1 quart

Maraschino cherries 8 ounces

Sliced peach 4 ounces

Sliced pineapple 4 ounces

Whole strawberries 4 ounces

Sliced orange 4 ounces

Dissolve the gelatin in 1 quart boiling hot water; add the syrup and the balance of the water; add the whites of the eggs and lemon juice.

Koumiss.

The original koumiss is the Russian, made from mare’s milk, while that produced in this country and other parts of Europe is usually, probably always, made from cow’s milk. For this reason there is a difference in the preparation which may or may not be of consequence. It has been asserted that the ferment used in Russia differs from ordinary yeast, but this has not been established.

In an article on this subject, contributed by D. H. Davies to the Pharmaceutical Journal and Transactions, it is pointed out that mare’s milk contains less casein and fatty matter than cow’s milk, and he states that it is “therefore far more easy of digestion.” He thinks that cow’s milk yields a better preparation when diluted with water to reduce the percentage of casein, etc. He proposes the following formula:

Fresh milk 12 ounces

Water 4 ounces

Brown sugar 150 grains

Compressed yeast 24 grains

Milk sugar 3 drachms

Dissolve the milk sugar in the water, add to the milk, rub the yeast and brown sugar down in a mortar with a little of the mixture, then strain into the other portion.

Strong bottles are very essential, champagne bottles being frequently used, and the corks should fit tightly; in fact, it is almost necessary to use a bottling machine for the purpose, and once the cork is properly fixed it should be wired down. Many failures have resulted because the corks did not fit properly, the result being that the carbon dioxide escaped as formed and left a worthless preparation. It is further necessary to keep the preparation at a moderate temperature, and to be sure that the article is properly finished the operator should gently shake the bottles each day for about 10 minutes to prevent the clotting of the casein. It is well to take the precaution of rolling a cloth around the bottle during the shaking process, as the amount of gas generated is great, and should the bottle be weak it might explode.

Kogelman says that if 1 volume of buttermilk be mixed with 1 or 2 volumes of sweet milk, in a short time lively fermentation sets in, and in about 3 days the work is completed. This, according to the author, produces a wine-scented fluid, rich in alcohol, carbon dioxide, lactic acid, and casein, which, according to all investigations yet made, is identical with koumiss. The following practical hints are given for the production of a good article: The sweet milk used should not be entirely freed from cream; the bottles should be of strong glass; the fermenting milk must be industriously shaken by the operator at least 3 times a day, and then the cork put in firmly, so that the fluid will become well charged with carbon-dioxide gas; the bottles must be daily opened and at least twice each day brought nearly to a horizontal position, in order to allow the carbon dioxide to escape and air to enter; otherwise fermentation rapidly ceases. If a drink is desired strong in carbonic acid, the bottles, toward the end of fermentation, should be placed with the necks down. In order to ferment a fresh quantity of milk, simply add / 3 of its volume of either actively fermenting or freshly fermented milk. The temperature should be from 50° to 60° F., about 60° being the most favorable. {117}

Here are some miscellaneous formulas:

I.—Fill a quart champagne bottle up to the neck with pure milk; add 2 ta­ble­spoon­fuls of white sugar, after dissolving the same in a little water over a hot fire; add also a quarter of a 2-cent cake of compressed yeast. Then tie the cork in the bottle securely, and shake the mixture well; place it in a room of the temperature of 50° to 95° F. for 6 hours, and finally in the ice box over night. Handle wrapped in a towel as protection if the bottle should burst. Be sure that the milk is pure, that the bottle is sound, that the yeast is fresh, to open the mixture in the morning with great care, on account of its effervescent properties; and be sure not to drink it at all if there is any curdle or thickening part resembling cheese, as this indicates that the fermentation has been prolonged beyond the proper time.

II.—Dilute the milk with / 6 part of hot water, and while still tepid add / 8 of very sour (but otherwise good) buttermilk. Put it into a wide jug, cover with a clean cloth, and let stand in a warmish place (about 75° F.) for 24 hours; stir up well, and leave for another 24 hours. Then beat thoroughly together, and pour from jug to jug till perfectly smooth and creamy. It is now “still” koumiss, and may be drunk at once. To make it sparkling, which is generally preferred, put it into champagne or soda-water bottles; do not quite fill them, secure the corks well, and lay them in a cool cellar. It will then keep for 6 or 8 weeks, though it becomes increasingly acid. To mature some for drinking quickly, it is as well to keep a bottle or two to start with in some warmer place, and from time to time shake vigorously. With this treatment it should, in about 3 days, become sufficiently effervescent to spurt freely through a champagne tap, which must be used for drawing it off as required. Later on, when very frothy and acid it is more pleasant to drink if a little sweetened water (or milk and water) is first put into the glass. Shake the bottle, and hold it inverted well into the tumbler before turning the tap. Having made one lot of koumiss as above you can use some of that instead of buttermilk as a ferment for a second lot, and so on 5 or 6 times in succession; after which it will be found advisable to begin again as at first. Mare’s milk is the best for koumiss; then ass’s milk. Cow’s milk may be made more like them by adding a little sugar of milk (or even loaf sugar) with the hot water before fermenting. But perhaps the chief drawback to cow’s milk is that the cream separates permanently, whereas that of mare’s milk will remix. Hence use partially skimmed milk; for if there is much cream it only forms little lumps of butter, which are apt to clog the tap, or are left behind in the bottle.

Kwass.

—Kwass is a popular drink among the Russian population of Kunzews, prepared as follows: In a big kettle put from 13 to 15 quarts of water, and bring to a boil, and when in active ebullition pour in 500 grams of malt. Let boil for 20 minutes, remove from the fire, let cool down, and strain off. The liquid is now put into a clean keg or barrel, 30 grams (about an ounce) of best compressed yeast added along with about 600 grams (20 ounces) of sugar, and the cask is put in a warm place to ferment. As soon as bubbles of carbonic gas are detected on the surface of the liquid, it is a signal that the latter is ready for bottling. In each of the bottles, which should be strong and clean, put one big raisin, fill, cork, and wire down. The bottles should be placed on the side, and in the coolest place available—best, on ice. The liquor is ready for drinking in from 2 to 3 days, and is said to be most palatable.

“Braga.”

—Braga is a liquid of milky turbidity, resembling café au lait in color, and forming a considerable precipitate if left alone. When shaken it sparkles and a little gas escapes. Its taste is more or less acid, possessing a pleasant flavor.

About 35 parts of crushed millet, to which a little wheat flour is added, are placed in a large kettle. On this about 400 parts of water are poured. The mixture is stirred well and boiled for 3 hours. After settling for 1 hour the lost water is renewed and the boiling continued for another 10 hours. A viscous mass remains in the kettle, which substance is spread upon large tables to cool. After it is perfectly cool, it is stirred with water in a wooden trough and left to ferment for 8 hours. This pulp is sifted, mixed with a little water, and after an hour the braga is ready for sale. The taste is a little sweetish at first, but becomes more and more sourish in time. Fermentation begins only in the trough.

Winter Beverages:

Campchello.

—Thoroughly beat the yolks of 12 fresh eggs with 2 / 4 pounds finely powdered, refined sugar, the juice {118} of 3 lemons and 2 oranges, and 3 bottles of Grâves or other white wine, over the fire, until rising. Remove, and slowly beat 1 bottle of Jamaica rum with it.

Egg Wine.

—Vigorously beat 4 whole eggs and the yolks of 4 with / 2 pound of fine sugar; next add 2 quarts of white wine and beat over a moderate fire until rising.

Bavaroise Au Cognac.

—Beat up the yolks of 8 eggs in 1 quart of good milk over the fire, until boiling, then quickly add 5 ounces of sugar and / 8 quart of fine cognac.

Bavaroise Au Café.

—Heat 1 pint of strong coffee and 1 pint of milk, 5 ounces of sugar, and the yolks of 8 eggs, until boiling, then add / 16 quart of Jamaica rum.

Carbonated Pineapple Champagne.—

Plain syrup, 42° 10 gallons

Essence of pineapple 8 drachms

Tincture of lemon 5 ounces

Carbonate of magnesia 1 ounce

Liquid saffron 2 / 2 ounces

Citric-acid solution 30 ounces

Caramel 2 / 2 ounces

Filter before adding the citric-acid solution and limejuice. Use 2 ounces to each bottle.

A German Drink.

—To 100 parts of water add from 10 to 15 parts of sugar, dissolve and add to the syrup thus formed an aqueous extract of 0.8 parts of green or black tea. Add fresh beer or brewers’ yeast, put in a warm place and let ferment. When fermentation has progressed to a certain point the liquid is cleared, and then bottled, corked, and the corks tied down. The drink is said to be very pleasant.

Limejuice Cordial.

—Limejuice cordial that will keep good for any length of time may be made as follows: Sugar, 6 pounds; water, 4 pints; citric acid, 4 ounces; boric acid, / 2 ounce. Dissolve by the aid of a gentle heat, and when cold add refined limejuice, 60 ounces; tincture of lemon peel, 4 ounces; water to make up to 2 gallons, and color with caramel.

Summer Drink.—

Chopped ice 2 ta­ble­spoon­fuls

Chocolate syrup 2 ta­ble­spoon­fuls

Whipped cream 3 ta­ble­spoon­fuls

Milk / 2 cup

Carbonated water / 4 cup

Shake or stir well before drinking. A ta­ble­spoon­ful of vanilla ice cream is a desirable addition. A plainer drink is made by combining the syrup, / 4 cup of milk, and the ice, and shaking well.

American Champagne.

—Good cider (crab-apple cider is the best), 7 gallons; best fourth-proof brandy, 1 quart; genuine champagne wine, 5 pints; milk, 1 gallon; bitartrate of potassa, 2 ounces. Mix, let stand a short time; bottle while fermenting. An excellent imitation.

British Champagne.

—Loaf sugar, 56 pounds; brown sugar (pale), 48 pounds; water (warm), 45 gallons; white tartar, 4 ounces; mix, and at a proper temperature add yeast, 1 quart; and afterwards sweet cider, 5 gallons; bruised wild cherries, 14 or 15 ounces; pale spirits, 1 gallon; orris powder, / 2 ounce. Bottle while fermenting.

Champagne Cider.

—Good pale cider, 1 hogshead; spirits, 3 gallons; sugar, 20 pounds; mix, and let it stand one fortnight; then fine with skimmed milk, / 2 gallon; this will be very pale, and a similar article, when properly bottled and labeled, opens so briskly that even good judges have mistaken it for genuine champagne.

Beer:

Scotch Beer.

—Add 1 peck malt to 4 gallons of boiling water and let it mash for 8 hours, and then strain, and in the strained liquor boil:

Hops 4 ounces

Coriander seeds 1 ounce

Honey 1 pound

Orange peel 2 ounces

Bruised ginger 1 ounce

Boil for half an hour, then strain and ferment in the usual way.

Hop Bitter Beer.—

Coriander seeds 2 ounces

Orange peel 4 ounces

Ginger 1 ounce

Gentian root / 2 ounce

Boil in 5 gallons of water for half an hour, then strain and put into the liquor 4 ounces hops and 3 pounds of sugar, and simmer for 15 minutes, then add sufficient yeast, and bottle when ready.

Sarsaparilla Beer.

—I.—Compound extract of sarsaparilla, 1 / 2 ounces; hot water, 1 pint; dissolve, and when cold, add of good pale or East India ale, 7 pints.

II.—Sarsaparilla (sliced), 1 pound; guaiacum bark (bruised small), / 4 pound; guaiacum wood (rasped) and licorice root (sliced), of each, 2 ounces; aniseed (bruised), 1 / 2 ounces; mezereon {119} root-bark, 1 ounce; cloves (cut small), / 4 ounce; moist sugar, 3 / 2 pounds; hot water (not boiling), 9 quarts; mix in a clean stone jar, and keep it in a moderately warm room (shaking it twice or thrice daily) until active fermentation sets in, then let it repose for about a week, when it will be ready for use. This is said to be superior to the other preparations of sarsaparilla as an alterative or purifier of the blood, particularly in old affections. That usually made has generally only / 2 of the above quantity of sugar, for which molasses is often substituted; but in either case it will not keep well; whereas, with proper caution, the products of the above formulas may be kept for 1 or even 2 years. No yeast must be used. Dose: A small tumblerful 3 or 4 times a day, or oftener.

Spruce Beer.

—I.—Sugar, 1 pound; essence of spruce, / 2 ounce; boiling water, 1 gallon; mix well, and when nearly cold add of yeast / 2 wineglassful; and the next day bottle like ginger beer.

II.—Essence of spruce, / 2 pint; pimento and ginger (bruised), of each, 5 ounces; hops, / 2 pound; water, 3 gallons; boil the whole for 10 minutes, then add of moist sugar, 12 pounds (or good molasses, 14 pounds); warm water, 11 gallons; mix well, and, when only lukewarm, further add of yeast, 1 pint; after the liquid has fermented for about 24 hours, bottle it.

This is diuretic and antiscorbutic. It is regarded as an agreeable summer drink, and often found useful during long sea voyages. When made with lump sugar it is called White Spruce Beer; when with moist sugar or treacle, Brown Spruce Beer. An inferior sort is made by using less sugar or more water.

Treacle Beer.

—I.—From treacle or molasses, / 4 to 2 pounds per gallon (according to the desired strength); hops, / 4 to / 4 ounce; yeast, a ta­ble­spoon­ful; water, q. s.; treated as below.

II.—Hops, 1 / 2 pounds; corianders, 1 ounce; capsicum pods (cut small), / 2 ounce; water, 8 gallons; boil for 10 or 15 minutes, and strain the liquor through a coarse sieve into a barrel containing treacle, 28 pounds; then throw back the hops, etc., into the copper and reboil them, for 10 minutes, with a second 8 gallons of water, which must be strained into the barrel, as before; next “rummage” the whole well with a stout stick, add of cold water 21 gallons (sufficient to make the whole measure 37 gallons), and, again after mixing, stir in / 2 pint of good fresh yeast; lastly, let it remain for 24 hours in a moderately warm place, after which it may be put into the cellar, and in 2 or 3 days bottled or tapped on draught. In a week it will be fit to drink. For a stronger beer, 36 pounds, or even half a hundredweight of molasses may be used. It will then keep good for a twelvemonth. This is a wholesome drink, but apt to prove laxative when taken in large quantities.

Weiss Beer.

—This differs from the ordinary lager beer in that it contains wheat malt. The proportions are / 3 wheat to / 3 barley malt, 1 pound hops being used with a peck of the combined malt to each 20 gallons of water. A good deal depends on the yeast, which must be of a special kind, the best grades being imported from Germany.

Yellow Coloring For Beverages.

—The coloring agents employed are fustic, saffron, turmeric, quercitron, and the various aniline dyes. Here are some formulas:

I.— Saffron 1 ounce

Deodorized alcohol 4 fluidounces

Distilled water 4 fluidounces

Mix alcohol and water, and then add the saffron. Allow the mixture to stand in a warm place for several days, shaking occasionally; then filter. The tincture thus prepared has a deep orange color, and when diluted or used in small quantities gives a beautiful yellow tint to syrups, etc.

II.— Ground fustic wood 1 / 2 ounces

Deodorized alcohol 4 fluidounces

Distilled water 4 fluidounces

This color may be made in the same manner as the liquid saffron, and is a fine coloring for many purposes.

III.— Turmeric powder 2 ounces

Alcohol, dilute 16 ounces

Macerate for several days, agitating frequently, and filter. For some beverages the addition of this tincture is not to be recommended, as it possesses a very spicy taste.

The nonpoisonous aniline dyes recommended for coloring confectionery, beverages, liquors, essences, etc., yellow are those known as acid yellow R and tropæolin 000 (orange I).

BICYCLE-TIRE CEMENT: See Adhesives, under Rubber Cements.

BICYCLE VARNISHES: See Varnishes. {120}

BIDERY METAL: See Alloys.

BILLIARD BALLS: See Ivory and Casein.

BIRCH BALSAM: See Balsam.

BIRCH WATER: See Hair Preparations.

BIRD DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.

Bird Foods:

See also Veterinary Formulas.

Mixed Birdseed.—

Canary seed 6 parts

Rape seed 2 parts

Maw seed 1 part

Millet seed 2 parts

Mocking-bird Food.—

Cayenne pepper 2 ounces

Rape seed 8 ounces

Hemp seed 16 ounces

Corn meal 2 ounces

Rice 2 ounces

Cracker 8 ounces

Lard oil 2 ounces

Mix the solids, grinding to a coarse powder, and incorporate the oil.

Food For Redbirds.—

Sunflower seed 8 ounces

Hemp seed 16 ounces

Canary seed 10 ounces

Wheat 8 ounces

Rice 6 ounces

Mix and grind to coarse powder.

BIRD LIME: See Lime.

BIRD PASTE: See Canary-Bird Paste.

BISCHOFF: See Wines and Liquors.

BISCUIT, DOG: See Dog Biscuit.

BISMUTH ALLOYS: See Alloys.

BISMUTH, PURIFICATION OF: See Gold.

BITTERS: See Wines and Liquors.

BITTER WATER: See Waters.

BLACKING FOR HARNESS: See Leather.

BLACKING FOR SHOES: See Shoedressings.

BLACKING, STOVE: See Stove Blackings and Polishes.

BLACKBERRY CORDIAL AND BLACKBERRY MIXTURE AS A CHOLERA REMEDY: See Cholera Remedy.

BLACKBOARD PAINT AND VARNISH: See Paint and Varnish.

BLACKHEAD REMEDIES: See Cosmetics.

BLANKET WASHING: See Household Formulas.

BLASTING POWDER: See Explosives.

Bleaching

Linen.

—Mix common bleaching powder in the proportion of 1 pound to a gallon of water; stir it occasionally for 3 days, let it settle, and pour it off clear. Then make a lye of 1 pound of soda to 1 gallon of boiling water, in which soak the linen for 12 hours, and boil it half an hour; next soak it in the bleaching liquor, made as above; and lastly, wash it in the usual manner. Discolored linen or muslin may be restored by putting a portion of bleaching liquor into the tub wherein the articles are soaking.

Straw.

—I.—Dip the straw in a solution of oxygenated muriatic acid, saturated with potash. (Oxygenated muriate of lime is much cheaper.) The straw is thus rendered very white, and its flexibility is increased.

II.—Straw is bleached by simply exposing it in a closed chamber to the fumes of burning sulphur. An old flour barrel is the apparatus most used for the purpose by milliners, a flat stone being laid on the ground, the sulphur ignited thereon, and the barrel containing the goods to be bleached turned over it. The goods should be previously washed in pure water.

Wool, Silk, Or Straw.

—Mix together 4 pounds of oxalic acid, 4 pounds of table salt, water 50 gallons. The goods are laid in this mixture for 1 hour; they are then generally well bleached, and only require to be thoroughly rinsed and worked. For bleaching straw it is best to soak the goods in caustic soda, and afterwards to make use of chloride of lime or Javelle water. The excess of {121} chlorine is afterwards removed by hyposulphite of soda.

Feathers.

—Place the feathers from 3 to 4 hours in a tepid dilute solution of bichromate of potassa, to which, cautiously, some nitric acid has been added (a small quantity only). To remove a greenish hue induced by this solution, place them in a dilute solution of sulphuric acid, in water, whereby the feathers become perfectly white and bleached.

Bleaching Solution.

—Aluminum hypochloride, or Wilson’s bleaching liquid, is produced by adding to a clear solution of lime chloride a solution of aluminum sulphate (alumina, alum) as long as a precipitate keeps forming. By mutual decomposition aluminum chloride results, which remains in solution, and lime sulphate (gypsum), which separates out in the form of an insoluble salt.

Blight Remedies.

I.— Soft soap 40 parts

Amyl alcohol 50 parts

Methylated spirit 20 parts

Water 1,000 parts

II.— Soft soap 30 parts

Sulphureted potash 2 parts

Amyl alcohol 32 parts

Water 1,000 parts

III.— Soft soap 15 parts

Sulphureted potash 29 parts

Water 1,000 parts

BLEACHING SOLUTIONS FOR THE LAUNDRY: See Laundry Preparations.

BLEACHING SOLUTION FOR PHOTOGRAPHS: See Photography.

BLEEDING, LOCAL: See Styptics.

BLISTER CURE: See Turpentine.

BLISTERS, FOR HORSES: See Veterinary Formulas.

BLOCK, HOLLOW CONCRETE BUILDING: See Stone, Artificial.

BLOCK FOR SOLDERING: See Soldering.

BLOTTING PAPER: See Paper.

Blue from Green at Night, to Distinguish:

To distinguish blue from green at night, use either the light of a magnesium wire for this purpose or take a number of Swedish (parlor) matches, light them, and as soon as they flash up, observe the 2 colors, when the difference can be easily told.

BLUE (BALL): See Dyes.

BLUING: See Laundry Preparations.

BLUING OF STEEL: See Steel.

Blue Prints, to Make Changes and Corrections on:

Use a solution of sodium carbonate and water, with a little red ink mixed in. This gives a very pleasing pink color to the changes which, at the same time, is very noticeable. The amount of sodium carbonate used depends upon the surface of the blue-print paper, as some coarse-grained papers will look better if less soda is used and vice versa. However, the amount of powdered soda held on a small coin dissolved in a bottle of water gives good results.

BLUE-PRINT PAPER MAKING: See Photography.

BLUE PRINTS, TO TURN BROWN: See Photography, under Toning.

Boil Remedy.

Take a piece of soft linen or borated gauze, rub some vaseline upon one side of it, quickly pour upon it some chloroform, apply it to the unopened boil or carbuncle, and place a bandage over all. It smarts a little at first, but this is soon succeeded by a pleasing, cool sensation. The patient is given a bottle of the remedy, and directed to change the cloth often. In from 2 hours to 1 day the boil (no matter how indurated) softens and opens.

Boiler Compounds

There are three chemicals which are known to attack boiler scale. These are caustic soda, soda ash, and tannic-acid compounds, the last being derived from sumac, catechu, and the exhausted bark liquor from tanneries.

Caustic soda in large excess is injurious to boiler fittings, gaskets, valves, {122} etc. That it is injurious, in reasonable excess, to the boiler tubes themselves is yet to be proved. Foaming and priming may be caused through excess of caustic soda or soda ash, as is well known by every practical engineer. Tannic acid is to be condemned and the use of its salts is not to be recommended. It may unite with the organic matter, present in the form of albuminoids, and with calcium and magnesium carbonates. That it removes scale is an assured fact; that it removes iron with the scale is also assured, as tannic acid corrodes an iron surface rapidly.

Compounds of vegetable origin are widely advertised, but they often contain dextrine and gum, both of which are dangerous, as they coat the tubes with a compact scale, not permitting the water to reach the iron. Molasses is acid and should not be used in the boiler. Starch substances generally should be avoided. Kerosene must be dangerous, as it is very volatile and must soon leave the boiler and pass over and through the engine.

There are two materials the use of which in boilers is not prohibited through action upon the metal itself or on account of price. These are soda ash and caustic soda. Sodium triphosphate and sodium fluoride have both been used with success, but their cost is several hundred per cent greater than soda ash. If prescribed as per analysis, in slight excess, there should be no injurious results through the use of caustic soda and soda ash. It would be practicable to manufacture an intimate mixture of caustic soda and carbonate of soda, containing enough of each to soften the average water of a given district.

There is a great deal of fraud in connection with boiler compounds generally. The better class of venders advertise to prepare a special compound for special water. This is expensive, save on a large scale, in reference to a particular water, for it would mean a score or more of tanks with men to make up the mixtures. The less honest of the boiler-compound guild consign each sample of water to the sewer and send the regular goods. Others have a stock analysis which is sent to customers of a given locality, whether it contains iron, lime, or magnesium sulphates or carbonates.

Any expense for softening water in excess of 3 cents per 1,000 gallons is for the privilege of using a ready-made softener. Every superintendent in charge of a plant should insist that the compound used be pronounced by competent authority free from injurious materials, and that it be adapted to the water in use.

Boiler compounds should contain only such ingredients as will neutralize the scale-forming salts present. They should be used only by prescription, so many gallons per 1,000 gallons of feed water. A properly proportioned mixture of soda ought to answer the demands of all plants depending upon that method of softening water in limestone and shale regions.

The honest boiler compounds are, however, useful for small isolated plants, because of the simplicity of their action. For plants of from 75 to 150 horse power two 24-hour settling tanks will answer the purpose of a softening system. Each of these, capable of holding a day’s supply, provided with a soda tank in common, and with sludge valves, has paddles for stirring the contents. Large plants are operated on this principle, serving boilers of many thousand horse power. Such a system has an advantage over a continuous system, in that the exact amount of chemical solutions required for softening the particular water can be applied. For some variations of such a system, several companies have secured patents. The fundamental principles, however, have been used for many years and are not patentable.

Prevention Of Boiler Scale.

—The lime contained in the feed water, either as bicarbonate or as sulphate, is precipitated in the shape of a light mud, but the walls of the boiler remain perfectly bright without being attacked in any manner. While under ordinary atmospheric pressure calcium chromate in solution is precipitated by soda or Glauber’s salt as calcium carbonate or as calcium sulphate; the latter is separated under higher pressure by chromates as calcium chromate. An excess of chromates or chromic acid does not exercise any deleterious action upon the metal, nor upon the materials used for packing. By the slight admixture of chromates, two pounds are sufficient for a small boiler for weeks; no injurious ingredients are carried in by the wet steam, the injection water, on the contrary, having been found to be chemically pure.

Protecting Boiler Plates From Scale.—

I.—For a 5-horse-power boiler, fed with water which contains calcic sulphate, take catechu, 2 pounds; dextrine, 1 pound; crystallized soda, 2 pounds; potash, / 2 pound; cane sugar, / 2 pound; alum, / 2 pound; gum arabic, / 2 pound. {123}

II.—For a boiler of the same size, fed with water which contains lime: Turmeric, 2 pounds; dextrine, 1 pound; sodium bicarbonate, 2 pounds; potash, / 2 pound; alum, / 2 pound; molasses, / 2 pound.

III.—For a boiler of the same size, fed with water which contains iron: Gamboge, 2 pounds; soda, 2 pounds; dextrine, 1 pound; potash, / 2 pound; sugar, / 2 pound; alum, / 2 pound; gum arabic, / 2 pound.

IV.—For a boiler of the same size, fed with sea water: Catechu, 2 pounds; Glauber’s salt, 2 pounds; dextrine, 2 pounds; alum, / 2 pound; gum arabic, / 2 pound.

When these preparations are used add 1 quart of water, and in ordinary cases charge the boiler every month; but if the incrustation is very bad, charge every two weeks.

V.—Place within the boiler of 100 horse power 1 bucketful of washing soda; put in 2 gallons of kerosene oil (after closing the blow-off cock), and fill the boiler with water. Feed in at least 1 quart of kerosene oil every day through a sight-feed oil cup attached to the feed pipe near the boiler—i. e., between the heater and the boiler—so that the oil is not entrapped within the heater. If it is inconvenient to open the boiler, then dissolve the washing soda in hot water and feed it in with the pump or through a tallow cock (attached between the ejector and the valve in the suction pipe) when the ejector is working.

VI.—A paint for protecting boiler plates from scale, and patented in Germany, is composed of 10 pounds each of train oil, horse fat, paraffine, and of finely ground zinc white. To this mixture is added 40 pounds of graphite and 10 pounds of soot made together into a paste with 1 / 2 gallons of water, and about a pound of carbolic acid. The horse fat and the zinc oxide make a soap difficult to fuse, which adheres strongly to the plates, and binds the graphite and the soot. The paraffine prevents the water from penetrating the coats. The scale which forms on this application can be detached, it is said, with a wooden mallet, without injuring the paint.

VII.—M. E. Asselin, of Paris, recommends the use of glycerine as a preventive. It increases the solubility of combinations of lime, and especially of the sulphate. It forms with these combinations soluble compounds. When the quantity of lime becomes so great that it can no longer be dissolved, nor form soluble combinations, it is deposited in a gelatinous substance, which never adheres to the surface of the iron plates. The gelatinous substances thus formed are not carried with the steam into the cylinder of the engine. M. Asselin advises the employment of 1 pound of glycerine for every 300 pounds or 400 pounds of coal burnt.

Prevention Of Electrolysis.

—In order to prevent the eating away of the sheets and tubes by electrolytic action, it has long been the practice of marine engineers to suspend slabs of zinc in their boilers. The zinc, being more susceptible to the electrolytic action than the iron, is eaten away, while the iron remains unimpaired. The use of zinc in this way has been found also to reduce the trouble from boiler scale. Whether it be due to the formation of hydrogen bubbles between the heating surfaces and incipient scale, to the presence in the water of the zinc salts resulting from the dissolution of the zinc, or to whatever cause, it appears to be a general conclusion among those who have used it that the zinc helps the scale, as well as the corrosion. Nobody has ever claimed for it that it prevented the attachment of scale altogether, but the consensus of opinion is that it “helps some.”

Boiler Pressure.

It hardly pays to reduce pressure on boilers, except in very extreme cases, but if it can be done by throttling before the steam reaches the cylinder of the engine it would be an advantage, because this retains the heat units due to the higher pressure in the steam, and the throttling has a slight superheating effect. As a matter of fact, tests go to show that for light loads and high pressure a throttling engine may do better than an automatic cut-off. The ideal arrangement is to throttle the steam for light loads; for heavier loads, allow the variable cut-off to come into play. This practice has been carried into effect by the design of Mr. E. J. Armstrong, in which he arranges the shaft governor so that there is negative lead up to nearly one-quarter cut-off, after which the lead becomes positive, and this has the effect of throttling the steam for the earlier loads and undoubtedly gives better economy, in addition to making the engine run more quietly.

Bone Black:

Bone Or Ivory Black.

—All bones (and ivory is bone in a sense) consist of a framework of crystallized matter or bone earth, in the interstices of which organic matter is embedded. Hence if {124} bones are heated red-hot in a closed vessel, the organic matter is destroyed, leaving carbon, in a finely divided state, lodged in the bony framework. If the heat is applied gradually the bone retains its shape, but is quite black and of much less weight than at first. This bone black or animal charcoal is a substance which has great power of absorbing coloring matter from liquids, so that it is largely used for bleaching such liquids. For example, in the vast industry of beet-sugar manufacture the solutions first made are very dark in color, but after filtration through animal charcoal will give colorless crystals on evaporation. Chemical trades require such large quantities of bone charcoal that its production is a large industry in itself. As in breaking up the charred bones a considerable amount of waste is produced, in the form of dust and small grains which cannot be used for bleaching purposes, this waste should be worked up into a pigment. This is done by dissolving out the mineral with hydrochloric acid, and then rinsing and drying the carbon.

The mineral basis of bones consists mainly of the phosphates of lime and magnesia, salts soluble in not too dilute hydrochloric acid. A vat is half filled with the above-mentioned waste, which is then just covered with a mixture of equal volumes of commercial hydrochloric acid and water. As the mineral matter also contains carbonates, a lively effervescence at once ensues, and small quantities of hydrofluoric acid are also formed from the decomposition of calcium fluoride in the bones. Now hydrofluoric acid is a very dangerous substance, as air containing even traces of it is very injurious to the lungs. Hence the addition of hydrochloric acid should be done in the open air, and the vat should be left by itself until the evolution of fumes ceases. A plug is then pulled out at the bottom and the carbon is thoroughly drained. It is then stirred up with water and again drained, when it has fully settled to the bottom. This rinsing with clear water is repeated till all the hydrochloric acid is washed away and only pure carbon remains in the vat. As for pigment-making purposes it is essential that the carbon should be as finely divided as possible, it is as well to grind the washed carbon in an ordinary color mill. Very little power is required for this purpose, as when once the bone earth is removed the carbon particles have little cohesion. The properly ground mass forms a deep-black mud, which can be left to dry or be dried by artificial heat. When dry, the purified bone black is of a pure black and makes a most excellent pigment.

Bone black is put upon the market under all sorts of names, such as ivory black, ebur ustum, Frankfort black, neutral black, etc. All these consist of finely ground bone black purified from mineral matter. If leather scraps or dried blood are to be worked up, iron tubes are employed, closed at one end, and with a well-fitting lid with a small hole in it at the other. As these bodies give off large volumes of combustible gas during the charring, it is a good plan to lead the vapors from the hole by a bent tube so that they can be burnt and help to supply the heat required and so save fuel. Leather or blood gives a charcoal which hardly requires treatment with hydrochloric acid, for the amount of mineral salts present is so small that its removal appears superfluous.

Bones, a Test for Broken.

Place a stethoscope on one side of the supposed fracture, and a tuning fork on the other. When the latter is vibrated, and there is no breakage, the sound will be heard distinctly through bone and stethoscope. Should any doubt exist, comparison should be made with the same bone on the other side of the body. This test shows the difference in the power of conducting sound possessed by bone and soft tissue.

BONE BLEACHES: See Ivory.

BONE FAT: See Fats.

BONE FAT, PURIFICATION AND BLEACHING OF: See Soap.

BONE POLISHES: See Polishes.

BONE FERTILIZERS: See Fertilizers.

BONES, TREATMENT OF, IN MANUFACTURING GLUE: See Adhesives.

BONE, UNITING GLASS WITH: See Adhesives.

Books, Their Handling and Preservation:

The Preservation Of Books In Hot Climates.

—Books in hot climates quickly deteriorate unless carefully guarded. There are three destructive agencies: (1) damp, (2) a small black insect, (3) cockroaches. {125}

(1) Books which are kept in a damp atmosphere deteriorate on account of molds and fungi that grow rapidly when the conditions are favorable. Books are best kept on open, airy, well-lighted shelves. When there has been a prolonged spell of moist weather their covers should be wiped, and they should be placed in the sun or before a fire for a few hours. Damp also causes the bindings and leaves of some books to separate.

(2) A small black insect, one-eighth of an inch long and a sixteenth of an inch broad, somewhat resembling a beetle, is very destructive, and books will be found, if left untouched, after a few months to have numerous holes in the covers and leaves. If this insect be allowed plenty of time for its ravages it will make so many holes that bindings originally strong can be easily torn to pieces. All damage may be prevented by coating the covers of books with the varnish described under (3). When books are found to contain the insects they should be well wrapped and placed in the sun before varnishing.

(3) The appearance of a fine binding may be destroyed in a single night by cockroaches. The lettering of the binding may, in two or three days, be completely obliterated.

The following varnishes have been found to prevent effectually the ravages of cockroaches and of all insects that feed upon books:

I.— Dammar resin 2 ounces

Mastic 2 ounces

Canada balsam 1 ounce

Creosote / 2 ounce

Spirit of wine 20 fl. ounces

Macerate with occasional shaking for a few days if wanted at once, but for a longer time when possible, as a better varnish will result after a maceration of several months.

II.—Corrosive sublimate, 1 ounce; carbolic acid, 1 ounce; methylated or rum spirit, 1 quart.

Where it is necessary to keep books or paper of any description in boxes, cupboards, or closed bookcases, some naphthalene balls or camphor should be always present with them. If camphor be used it is best to wrap it in paper, otherwise it volatilizes more quickly than is necessary. In dry weather the doors of closed bookcases should be left open occasionally, as a damp, still atmosphere is most favorable for deterioration.

How To Open A Book.

—Never force the back of the book. Hold the book with its back on a smooth or covered table; let the front board down, then the other, holding the leaves in one hand while you open a few leaves at the back, then a few at the front, and so on, alternately opening back and front, gently pressing open the sections till you reach the center of the volume. Do this two or three times and you will obtain the best results. Open the volume violently or carelessly in any one place and you will probably break the back or cause a start in the leaves.

BOOK DISINFECTANT: See Disinfectants.

BOOKS, TO REMOVE FINGER-MARKS FROM: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

BOOKBINDERS’ VARNISH: See Varnishes.

BOOKWORMS: See Insecticides.

BOOT DRESSINGS: See Shoe Dressings.

BOOT LUBRICANT: See Lubricant.

BOOTS, WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.

Borax for Sprinkling.

I.—Sprinkling borax is not only cheaper, but also dissolves less in soldering than pure borax.

The borax is heated in a metal vessel until it has lost its water of crystallization and mixed with calcined cooking salt and potash—borax, 8 parts; cooking salt, 3 parts; potash, 3 parts. Next it is pounded in a mortar into a fine powder, constituting the sprinkling borax.

II.—Another kind of sprinkling borax is prepared by substituting glass-gall for the potash. Glass-gall is the froth floating on the melted glass, which can be skimmed off.

The borax is either dusted on in powder form from a sprinkling box or stirred with water before use into a thin paste.

BORAX AND BORIC ACID IN FOOD: See Food.

BORDEAUX MIXTURE: See Insecticides.

BOROTONIC: See Dentifrices. {126}

BOTTLE-CAP LACQUER: See Lacquer.

BOTTLE CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods, under Miscellaneous Methods.

BOTTLE STOPPERS: See Stoppers.

BOTTLE VARNISH: See Varnishes.

BOTTLE WAX: See Photography.

BOUILLON: See Beverages.

BOURBON METALS: See Alloys.

BOWLS OF FIRE TRICK: See Pyrotechnics.

BOX GLUE: See Adhesives.

BRAGA: See Beverages.

Bran, Sawdust in.

For the detection of sawdust in bran use a solution of 1 part of phloroglucin in 15 parts of alcohol, 15 parts of water, and 10 parts of syrupy phosphoric acid. Place 2 parts of the solution in a small porcelain dish, add a knifepointful of the bran and heat moderately. Sawdust is dyed red while bran parts only seldom acquire a faint red color. By a microscopic examination of the reddish parts, sawdust will be readily recognized.

Bottles

Magic Bottles.—

The mystery of the “wonderful bottle,” from which can be poured in succession port wine, sherry, claret, water, champagne, or ink, at the will of the operator, is easily explained. The materials consist of an ordinary dark-colored pint wine bottle, seven wine glasses of different patterns, and the chemicals described below:

Solution A: A mixture of tincture of ferric chloride, drachms vi; hydrochloric acid, drachms ii.

Solution B: Saturated solution of ammonium sulphocyanide, drachm i.

Solution C: Strong solution of ferric chloride, drachm i.

Solution D: A weak solution of ammonium sulphocyanide.

Solution E: Concentrated solution of lead acetate.

Solution F: Solution of ammonium sulphide, drachm i; or pyrogallic acid, drachm i.

Package G: Pulverized potassium bicarbonate, drachm iss.

Having poured two teaspoonfuls of solution A into the wine bottle, treat the wine glasses with the different solutions, noting and remembering into which glasses the several solutions are placed. Into No. 1 wine glass pour one or two drops of solution B; into No. 2 glass pour one or two drops of solution C; into No. 3 one or two drops of Solution D; leave No. 4 glass empty; into No. 5 glass pour a few drops of Solution E; into No. 6 glass place a few grains of Package G; into No. 7 glass pour a little of solution F.

Request some one to bring you some cold drinking water, and to guarantee that it is pure show that your wine bottle is (practically) empty. Fill it up from the carafe, and having asked the audience whether you shall produce wine or water, milk or ink, etc., you may obtain any of these by pouring a little of the water from the bottle into the prepared glass. Thus No. 1 glass gives a port-wine color; No. 2 gives a sherry color; No. 3 gives a claret color; No. 4 is left empty to prove that the solution in the bottle is colorless; No. 5 produces milk; No. 6, effervescing champagne; No. 7, ink.

Bottle-capping Mixtures.—

I.—Soak 7 pounds of good gelatin in 10 ounces of glycerine and 60 ounces of water, and heat over a water bath until dissolved, and add any desired color. Pigments may be used, and various tints can be obtained by the use of aniline colors. The resulting compound should be stored in jars. To apply liquefy the mass and dip the cork and portion of the neck of the bottle into the liquid; it sets very quickly.

II.— Gelatin 1 ounce

Gum arabic 1 ounce

Boric acid 20 grains

Starch 1 ounce

Water 16 fluidounces

Mix the gelatin, gum arabic, and boric acid with 14 fluidounces of cold water, stir occasionally until the gum is dissolved, heat the mixture to boiling, remove the scum, and strain. Also mix the starch intimately with the remainder of the water, and stir this mixture into the hot gelatin mixture until a uniform product results. As noted above, the composition may be tinted with any suitable dye. Before using, it must be softened by the application of heat. {127}

III.— Shellac 3 ounces

Venice turpentine 1 / 2 ounces

Boric acid 72 grains

Powdered talcum 3 ounces

Ether 6 fluidrams

Alcohol 12 / 2 fluidounces

Dissolve the shellac, turpentine, and boric acid in the mixed alcohol and ether, color with a spirit-soluble dye, and add the talcum. During use the mixture must be agitated frequently.

Show Bottles.—

I.—Place in a cylindrical bottle the following liquids in the order named:

First, sulphuric acid, tinted blue with indigo; second, chloroform; third, glycerine, slightly tinted with caramel; fourth, castor oil, colored with alkanet root; fifth, 40-per-cent alcohol, slightly tinted with aniline green; sixth, cod-liver oil, containing 1 per cent of oil of turpentine. The liquids are held in place by force of gravity, and alternate with fluids which are not miscible, so that the strata of layers are clearly defined and do not mingle by diffusion.

II.— Chromic acid 1 drachm

Commercial “muriatic” acid 2 ounces

Nitric acid 2 ounces

Water, enough to make 3 gallons

The color is magenta.

The following makes a fine pink for show carboys:

III.— Cobalt oxide 2 parts

Nitric acid, c. p. 1 part

Hydrochloric acid 1 part

Mix and dissolve, and to the solution add:

Strongest water of ammonia 6 parts

Sulphuric acid 1 part

Water, distilled, q. s. to make 400 parts

This should be left standing in a dark, cool place for at least a month before putting in the window.

IV.—Green.—Copper sulphate, 300 parts, by weight; hydrochloric acid, 450 parts, by weight; distilled water, to 4,500 parts, by weight.

V.—Blue.—Copper sulphate, 480 parts, by weight; sulphuric acid, 60 parts, by weight; distilled water, to 450 parts, by weight.

VI.—Yellowish Brown.—Potassium dichromate, 120 parts, by weight; nitric acid, 150 parts, by weight; distilled water, to 4,500 parts, by weight.

VII.—Yellow.—Potassium dichromate, 30 parts, by weight; sodium bicarbonate, 225 parts, by weight; distilled water, to 4,500 parts, by weight.

VIII.—Red.—Liquid ferric chloride, officinal, 60 parts, by weight; concentrated ammonium-acetate solution, 120 parts, by weight; acetic acid, 30 per cent, 30 parts, by weight; distilled water, to 9,000 parts, by weight.

IX.—Crimson.—Potassium iodide, 7.5 parts, by weight; iodine, 7.5 parts, by weight; hydrochloric acid, 60 parts, by weight; distilled water, to 4,500 parts, by weight.

All the solutions IV to IX should be filtered. If distilled water be used these solutions should keep for five to ten years. In order to prevent them from freezing, either add 10 per cent of alcohol, or reduce the quantity of water by 10 per cent.

A Cheap And Excellent Warming Bottle.

—Mix sodium acetate and sodium hyposulphate in the proportion of 1 part of the former to 9 parts of the latter, and with the mixture fill an earthenware bottle about three-quarters full. Close the vessel well with a cork and place it either in hot water or in the oven, and let remain until the salts within melt. For at least a half day the jug will radiate its heat, and need only be well shaken from time to time to renew its heat-giving energy.

Bottle Deodorizer.

—Powdered black mustard seed is successfully employed. Pour a little of it with some lukewarm water into the receptacle, rinsing it afterwards with water. If necessary, repeat the process.

BRANDY AND BRANDY BITTERS See Wines and Liquors.

Brass

Formulas for the making of Brass will be found under Alloys.

Colors For Polished Brass.

—The brass objects are put into boiling solutions composed of different salts, and the intensity of the shade obtained is dependent upon the duration of the immersion. With a solution composed of

Sulphate of copper 120 grains

Hydrochlorate of ammonia 30 grains

Water 1 quart

greenish shades are obtained. With the following solution all the shades of brown from orange brown to cinnamon are obtained: {128}

Chlorate of potash 150 grains

Sulphate of copper 150 grains

Water 1 quart

The following solution gives the brass first a rosy tint and then colors it violet and blue:

Sulphate of copper 435 grains

Hyposulphite of soda 300 grains

Cream of tartar 150 grains

Water 1 pint

Upon adding to the last solution

Ammoniacal sulphate of iron 300 grains

Hyposulphite of soda 300 grains

there are obtained, according to the duration of the immersion, yellowish, orange, rosy, then bluish shades. Upon polarizing the ebullition the blue tint gives way to yellow, and finally to a pretty gray. Silver, under the same circumstances, becomes very beautifully colored. After a long ebullition in the following solution we obtain a yellow-brown shade, and then a remarkable fire red:

Chlorate of potash 75 grains

Carbonate of nickel 30 grains

Salt of nickel 75 grains

Water 16 ounces

The following solution gives a beautiful, dark-brown color:

Chlorate of potash 75 grains

Salt of nickel 150 grains

Water 10 ounces

The following gives, in the first place, a red, which passes to blue, then to pale lilac, and finally to white:

Orpiment 75 grains

Crystallized sal sodæ 150 grains

Water 10 ounces

The following gives a yellow brown:

Salt of nickel 75 grains

Sulphate of copper 75 grains

Chlorate of potash 75 grains

Water 10 ounces

On mixing the following solutions, sulphur separates and the brass becomes covered with iridescent crystallizations:

I.— Cream of tartar 75 grains

Sulphate of copper 75 grains

Water 10 ounces

II.— Hyposulphite of soda 225 grains

Water 5 ounces

Upon leaving the brass objects immersed in the following mixture contained in corked vessels they at length acquire a very beautiful blue color:

Hepar of sulphur 15 grains

Ammonia 75 grains

Water 4 ounces

Miscellaneous Coloring Of Brass.

—Yellow to bright red: Dissolve 2 parts native copper carbonate with 1 part caustic soda in 10 parts water. Dip for a few minutes into the liquor, the various shades desired being obtained according to the length of time of the immersion. Green: Dissolve 1 part copper acetate (verdigris), 1 part blue vitriol, and 1 part alum in 10 parts of water and boil the articles therein. Black: For optical articles, photographic apparatus, plates, rings, screws, etc., dissolve 45 parts of malachite (native copper carbonate) in 1,000 parts of sal ammoniac. For use clean and remove the grease from the article by pickling and dip it into the bath until the coating is strong enough. The bath operates better and quicker if heated. Should the oxidation be a failure it should be removed by dipping into the brass pickle.

A verdigris color on brass is produced by treating the articles with dilute acids, acetic acid, or sulphuric acid, and drying.

Brown in all varieties of shades is obtained by immersing the metal in solutions of nitrates or ferric chloride after it has been corroded with dilute nitric acid, cleaned with sand and water, and dried. The strength of the solutions governs the deepness of the resulting color.

Violet is caused by immersing the thoroughly cleaned objects in a solution of ammonium chloride.

Chocolate color results if red ferric oxide is strewn on and burned off, followed by polishing with a small quantity of galena.

Olive green is produced by blackening the surface with a solution of iron in hydrochloric acid, polishing with galena, and coating hot with a lacquer composed of 1 part varnish, 4 parts cincuma, and 1 part gamboge.

A steel-blue coloring is obtained by means of a dilute boiling solution of chloride of arsenic, and a blue one by a treatment with strong hyposulphite of soda. Another formula for bluing brass is: Dissolve 10 parts of antimony chloride in 200 parts of water, and add 30 parts of pure hydrochloric acid. Dip the article until it is well blued, then wash and dry in sawdust.

Black is much used for optical brass articles and is produced by coating with a solution of platinum or auric chloride mixed with nitrate of tin.

Coloring Unpolished Brass.

—A yellow color of handsome effect is obtained on {129} unpolished brass by means of antimony-chloride solution. This is produced by finely powdering gray antimony and boiling it with hydrochloric acid. With formation of hydrogen sulphide a solution of antimony results, which must not be diluted with water, since a white precipitate of antimony oxychloride is immediately formed upon admixture of water. For dilution, completely saturated cooking-salt solution is employed, using for 1 part of antimony chloride 2 parts of salt solution.

Coloring Fluid For Brass.

—Caustic soda, 33 parts; water, 24 parts; hydrated carbonate of copper, 5.5 parts.

Dissolve the salt in water and dip the metal in the solution obtained. The intensity of the color will be proportional to the time of immersion. After removing the object from the liquid, rinse with water and dry in sawdust.

Black Color On Brass.

—A black or oxidized surface on brass is produced by a solution of carbonate of copper in ammonia. The work is immersed and allowed to remain until the required tint is observed. The carbonate of copper is best used in a plastic condition, as it is then much more easily dissolved. Plastic carbonate of copper may be mixed as follows: Make a solution of blue vitriol (sulphate of copper) in hot water, and add a strong solution of common washing soda to it as long as any precipitate forms. The precipitate is allowed to settle, and the clear liquid is poured off. Hot water is added, and the mass stirred and again allowed to settle. This operation is repeated six or eight times to remove the impurities. After the water has been removed during the last pouring, and nothing is left but an emulsion of the thick plastic carbonate in a small quantity of water, liquid ammonia is added until everything is dissolved and a clear, deep-blue liquid is produced. If too strong, water may be added, but a strong solution is better than a weak one. If it is desired to make the solution from commercial plastic carbonate of copper the following directions may be followed: Dissolve 1 pound of the plastic carbonate of copper in 2 gallons of strong ammonia. This gives the required strength of solution.

The brass which it is desired to blacken is first boiled in a strong potash solution to remove grease and oil, then well rinsed and dipped in the copper solution, which has previously been heated to from 150° to 175° F. This solution, if heated too hot, gives off all the ammonia. The brass is left in the solution until the required tint is produced. The color produced is uniform, black, and tenacious. The brass is rinsed and dried in sawdust. A great variety of effects may be produced by first finishing the brass before blackening, as the oxidizing process does not injure the texture of the metal. A satisfactory finish is produced by first rendering the surface of the brass matt, either by scratch-brush or similar methods, as the black finish thus produced by the copper solution is dead—one of the most pleasing effects of an oxidized surface. Various effects may also be produced by coloring the entire article and then buffing the exposed portions.

The best results in the use of this solution are obtained by the use of the so-called red metals—i. e., those in which the copper predominates. The reason for this is obvious. Ordinary sheet brass consists of about 2 parts of copper and 1 part of zinc, so that the large quantity of the latter somewhat hinders the production of a deep-black surface. Yellow brass is colored black by the solution, but it is well to use some metal having a reddish tint, indicating the presence of a large amount of copper. The varieties of sheet brass known as gilding or bronze work well. Copper also gives excellent results. Where the best results are desired on yellow brass a very light electroplate of copper before the oxidizing works well and gives an excellent black. With the usual articles made of yellow brass this is rarely done, but the oxidation carried out directly.

Black Finish For Brass.

—I.—A handsome black finish may be put on brass by the following process: Dissolve in 1,000 parts of ammonia water 45 parts of natural malachite, and in the solution put the object to be blackened, after first having carefully and thoroughly cleaned the same. After letting it stand a short time gradually warm the mixture, examining the article from time to time to ascertain if the color is deep enough. Rinse and let dry.

II.—The blacking of brass may be accomplished by immersing it in the following solution and then heating over a Bunsen burner or a spirit flame: Add a saturated solution of ammonium carbonate to a saturated copper-sulphate solution, until the precipitate resulting in the beginning has almost entirely dissolved. The immersion and heating are repeated until the brass turns dark; then it is brushed and dipped in negative varnish or dull varnish. {130}

To Give A Brown Color To Brass.

—I.—In 1,000 parts of rain or distilled water dissolve 5 parts each of verdigris (copper acetate) and ammonium chloride. Let the solution stand 4 hours, then add 1,500 parts of water. Remove the brass to be browned from its attachment to the fixtures and make the surface perfectly bright and smooth and free from grease. Place it over a charcoal fire and heat until it “sizzes” when touched with the dampened finger. The solution is then painted over the surface with a brush or swabbed on with a rag. If one swabbing does not produce a sufficient depth of color, repeat the heating and the application of the liquid until a fine durable brown is produced. For door plates, knobs, and ornamental fixtures generally, this is one of the handsomest as well as the most durable surfaces, and is easily applied.

II.—A very handsome brown may be produced on brass castings by immersing the thoroughly cleaned and dried articles in a warm solution of 15 parts of sodium hydrate and 5 parts of cupric carbonate in 100 parts of water. The metal turns dark yellow, light brown, and finally dark brown, with a greenish shimmer, and, when the desired shade is reached, is taken out of the bath, rinsed, and dried.

III.—Paint the cleaned and dried surface uniformly with a dilute solution of ammonium sulphide. When this coating is dry, it is rubbed over, and then painted with a dilute ammoniacal solution of arsenic sulphide, until the required depth of color is attained. If the results are not satisfactory the painting can be repeated after washing over with ammonia. Prolonged immersion in the second solution produces a grayish-green film, which looks well, and acquires luster when polished with a cloth.

Refinishing Gas Fixtures.

—Gas fixtures which have become dirty or tarnished from use may be improved in appearance by painting with bronze paint and then, if a still better finish is required, varnishing after the paint is thoroughly dry with some light-colored varnish that will give a hard and brilliant coating.

If the bronze paint is made up with ordinary varnish it is liable to become discolored from acid which may be present in the varnish. One method proposed for obviating this is to mix the varnish with about five times its volume of spirit of turpentine, add to the mixture dried slaked lime in the proportion of about 40 grains to the pint, agitate well, repeating the agitation several times, and finally allowing the suspended matter to settle and decanting the clear liquid. The object of this is to neutralize any acid which may be present. To determine how effectively this has been done the varnish may be chemically tested.

Steel Blue And Old Silver On Brass.

—For the former dissolve 100 parts of carbonic carbonate in 750 parts of ammonia and dilute this solution with distilled water, whereupon the cleaned articles are dipped into the liquid by means of a brass wire. After two to three minutes take them out, rinse in clean water, and dry in sawdust. Old silver on brass is produced as follows: The articles are first silvered and next painted with a thin paste consisting of graphite, 6 parts; pulverized hematite, 1 part; and turpentine. Use a soft brush and dry well; then brush off the powder. Oxidized silver is obtained by dipping the silvered goods into a heated solution of liver of sulphur, 5 parts; ammonia carbonate, 10 parts; and water, 10,000 parts. Only substantially silvered objects are suited for oxidation, as a weak silvering is taken off by this solution. Unsatisfactory coloring is removed with potassium-cyanide solution. It is advisable to lay the articles in hydrogen sulphide-ammonia solution diluted with water,wherein they acquire a blue to a deep-black shade.

Tombac Color On Brass.

—This is produced by immersion in a mixture of copper carbonate, 10 parts; caustic soda, 30 parts; water, 200 parts. This layer will only endure wiping with a cloth, not vigorous scouring with sand.

Graining Of Brass.

—Brass parts of timepieces are frequently provided with a dead grained surface. For this purpose they are fastened with flat-headed pins on cork disks and brushed with a paste of water and finest powdered pumice stone. Next they are thoroughly washed and placed in a solution of 10 quarts of water, 30 grains of mercuric nitrate, and 60 grains of sulphuric acid. In this amalgamating solution the objects become at once covered with a layer of mercury, which forms an amalgam with the copper, while the zinc passes into solution. After the articles have again been washed they are treated with graining powder, which consists of silver powder, tartar, and cooking salt. These substances must be pure, dry, and very finely pulverized. The mixing is done with moderate heat. According {131} to whether a coarser or finer grain is desired, more cooking salt or more tartar must be contained in the powder. The ordinary proportions are:

Silver powder 28 28 28 parts

Tartar 283 110–140 85 parts

Cooking salt 900 370 900 parts

This powder is moistened with water and applied to the object. Place the article with the cork support in a flat dish and rub on the paste with a stiff brush while turning the dish incessantly. Gradually fresh portions of graining powder are put on until the desired grain is obtained. These turn out the rounder the more the dish and brush are turned. When the right grain is attained, rinse off with water, and treat the object with a scratch brush, with employment of a decoction of saponaria. The brushes must be moved around in a circle in brushing with the pumice stone, as well as in rubbing on the graining powder and in using the scratch brush. The required silver powder is produced by precipitating a diluted solution of silver nitrate with some strips of sheet copper. The precipitated silver powder is washed out on a paper filter and dried at moderate heat.

The Dead, Or Matt, Dip For Brass.

—The dead dip is used to impart a satiny or crystalline finish to the surface. The bright dip gives a smooth, shiny, and perfectly even surface, but the dead dip is the most pleasing of any dip finish, and can be used as a base for many secondary finishes.

The dead dip is a mixture of oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) and aqua fortis (nitric acid) in which there is enough sulphate of zinc (white vitriol) to saturate the solution. It is in the presence of the sulphate of zinc that the essential difference between the bright and the dead dip exists. Without it the dead or matt surface cannot be obtained.

The method generally practiced is to add the sulphate of zinc to the mixed acids (sulphuric and nitric), so that some remains undissolved in the bottom of the vessel. It is found that the sulphate of zinc occurs in small crystals having the appearance of very coarse granulated sugar. These crystals readily settle to the bottom of the vessel and do not do the work of matting properly. If they are finely pulverized the dip is slightly improved, but it is impossible to pulverize such material to a fineness that will do the desired work. The use of sulphate of zinc, then, leaves much to be desired.

The most modern method of making up the dead dip is to produce the sulphate of zinc directly in the solution and in the precipitated form. It is well known that the most finely divided materials are those which are produced by precipitation, and in the dead dip it is very important that the sulphate of zinc shall be finely divided so that it will not immediately settle to the bottom. Therefore it should be precipitated so that when it is mixed with the acids it will not settle immediately. The method of making the sulphate of zinc directly in the solution is as follows:

Take 1 gallon of yellow aqua fortis (38° F.) and place in a stone crock which is surrounded with cold water. The cold water is to keep the heat, formed by the reaction, from evaporating the acid. Add metallic zinc in small pieces until the acid will dissolve no more. The zinc may be in any convenient form—sheet clippings, lumps, granulated, etc., that may be added little by little. If all is added at once it will boil over. When the acid will dissolve no more zinc it will be found that some of the acid has evaporated by the heat, and it will be necessary to add enough fresh acid to make up to the original gallon. When this is done add 1 gallon of strong oil of vitriol. The mixture should be stirred with a wooden paddle while the oil of vitriol is being added.

As the sulphuric acid is being added the solution begins to grow milky, and finally the whole has the consistency of thick cream. This is caused by the sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol) precipitating out the sulphate of zinc. Thus the very finely divided precipitate of sulphate of zinc is formed. If one desires to use known quantities of acid and zinc the following amounts may be taken: Oil of vitriol, 1 gallon; aqua fortis (38° F.), 1 gallon; metallic zinc, 6 ounces.

In dissolving the zinc in the aqua fortis it is necessary to be sure that none remains undissolved in the bottom.

The dead or matt dip is used hot, and, therefore, is kept in a stone crock surrounded with hot water. The articles to be matted are polished and cleaned, and the dip thoroughly stirred with a wooden paddle, so as to bring up the sulphate of zinc which has settled. Dip the work in the solution and allow it to remain until the matt is obtained. This is a point which can be learned only by experience. When the brass article is first introduced there is a rapid action on the surface, but in a few seconds this slows down. Remove the article and rinse and immediately dip into the usual bright dip. This {132} is necessary for the reason that the dead dip produces a dark coating upon the surface, which, were it left on, would not show the real effect or the color of the metal. The bright dip, however, removes this and exposes the true dead surface.

The usual rule for making up the dead dip is to use equal parts of oil of vitriol and aqua fortis; but these may be altered to suit the case. More oil of vitriol gives a finer matt, while a larger quantity of aqua fortis will give a coarser matt. When the dip becomes old it is unnecessary to add more zinc, as a little goes into the solution each time anything is dipped. After a while, however, the solution becomes loaded with copper salts, and should be thrown away.

A new dip does not work well, and will not give good results when used at once. It is usual to allow it to remain over night, when it will be found to be in a better working condition in the morning. A new dip will frequently refuse to work, and the addition of a little water will often start it. The water must be used sparingly, however, and only when necessary. Water, as a usual thing, spoils a dead dip, and must be avoided. After a while it may be necessary to add a little more aqua fortis, and this may be introduced as desired. Much care is needed in working the dead dip, and it requires constant watching and experience. The chief difficulty in working the dead dip is to match a given article. The only way that it can be done is to “cut and try,” and add aqua fortis or oil of vitriol as the case requires.

The dead or matt dip can be obtained only upon brass or German silver; in other words, only on alloys which contain zinc. The best results are obtained upon yellow brass high in zinc.

To Improve Deadened Brass Parts.

—Clock parts matted with oilstone and oil, such as the hour wheels, minute wheels, etc., obtain, by mere grinding, a somewhat dull appearance, with a sensitive surface which readily takes spots. This may be improved by preparing the following powder, rubbing a little of it on a buff stick, and treating the deadened parts, which have been cleansed with benzine, by rubbing with slight pressure on cork. This imparts to the articles a handsome, permanent, metallic matt luster. The smoothing powder consists of 2 parts of jewelers’ red and 8 parts of lime carbonate, levigated in water, and well dried. Jewelers’ red alone may be employed, but this requires some practice and care, especially in the treatment of wheels, because rays are liable to form from the teeth toward the center.

Pickle For Brass.

—Stir 10 parts (by weight) of shining soot or snuff, 10 parts of cooking salt, and 10 parts of red tartar with 250 parts of nitric acid, and afterwards add 250 parts of sulphuric acid; or else mix 7 parts of aqua fortis (nitric acid) with 10 parts of English sulphuric acid. For the mixing ratio of the acid, the kind and alloy of the metal should be the guidance, and it is best found out by practical trials. The better the alloy and the less the percentage of zinc or lead, the handsomer will be the color. Genuine bronze, for instance, acquires a golden shade. In order to give brass the appearance of handsome gilding it is often coated with gold varnish by applying same thinly with a brush or sponge and immediately heating the metal over a coal fire.

Pickling Brass To Look Like Gold.

—To pickle brass so as to make it resemble gold allow a mixture of 6 parts of chemically pure nitric acid and 1 part of English sulphuric acid to act for some hours upon the surface of the brass; then wash with a warm solution, 20 parts of tartar in 50 parts of water, and rub off neatly with dry sawdust. Then coat the article with the proper varnish.

Pickle For Dipping Brass.

—To improve the appearance of brass, tombac, and copper goods, they are usually dipped. For this purpose they are first immersed in diluted oil of vitriol (brown sulphuric acid), proportion, 1 to 10; next in a mixture of 10 parts of red tartar; 10 parts of cooking salt; 250 parts of English sulphuric acid, as well as 250 parts of aqua fortis (only for a moment), rinsing off well in water and drying in sawdust. For obtaining a handsome matt gold color / 20 part of zinc vitriol (zinc sulphate) is still added to the pickle.

Restoration Of Brass Articles.

—The brass articles are first freed from adhering dirt by the use of hot soda lye; if bronzed they are dipped in a highly dilute solution of sulphuric acid and rinsed in clean water. Next they are yellowed in a mixture of nitric acid, 75 parts; sulphuric acid, 100 parts; shining lampblack, 2 parts; cooking salt, 1 part; then rinsed and polished and, to prevent oxidation, coated with a colorless spirit varnish, a celluloid varnish being best for this purpose.

Tempering Brass.

—If hammered too brittle brass can be tempered and made {133} of a more even hardness throughout by warming it, as in tempering steel; but the heat must not be nearly so great. Brass, heated to the blue heat of steel, is almost soft again. To soften brass, heat it nearly to a dull red and allow it to cool, or, if time is an object, it may be cooled by plunging into water.

Drawing Temper From Brass.

—Brass is rendered hard by hammering or rolling, therefore when a brass object requires to be tempered the material must be prepared before the article is shaped. Temper may be drawn from brass by heating it to a cherry red and then simply plunging it into water, the same as though steel were to be tempered.

BRASS, FASTENING PORCELAIN TO: See Adhesives.

BRASS POLISHES: See Polishes.

BRASS SOLDERS: See Solders.

BRASS BRONZING: See Plating.

BRASS CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

BRASS PLATINIZING: See Plating.

BRASS, SAND HOLES IN: See Castings.

BRASSING: See Plating.

BREAD, DOG: See Dog Biscuit.

Breath Perfumes:

See also Dentifrices.

Remedies For Fetid Breath.

—Fetid breath may be due to the expelled air (i. e., to disease of the respirational tract), to gases thrown off from the digestive tract, or to a diseased mouth. In the first two cases medication must be directed to the causative diseases, with the last, antisepsis principally and the neutralization of the saliva, also the removal of all residual food of dental caries.

I.— Potassium permanganate 1 part

Distilled water 10 parts

Mix and dissolve. Add from 5 to 8 drops of this solution to a glass of water and with it gargle the mouth.

II.— Infusion of salvia 250 parts

Glycerine 30 parts

Tincture of myrrh 12 parts

Tincture of lavender 12 parts

Labarraque’s solution 30 parts

Mix. Rinse the mouth frequently with this mixture.

III.— Decoction of chamomile 30 parts

Glycerine 80 parts

Chlorinated water 15 parts

Mix. Use as a gargle and mouth wash.

IV.— Peppermint water 500 parts

Cherry-laurel water 60 parts

Borax 25 parts

Mix and dissolve. Use as gargle and mouth wash.

V.— Thymol 3 parts

Spirit of cochlearia 300 parts

Tincture of rhatany 100 parts

Oil of peppermint 15 parts

Oil of cloves 10 parts

Mix. Gargle and wash mouth well with 10 drops in a glass of water.

VI.— Salol 5 parts

Alcohol 1,000 parts

Tincture of white canella 30 parts

Oil of peppermint 1 part

Mix. Use as a dentifrice.

VII.— Hydrogen peroxide 25 parts

Distilled water 100 parts

Mix. Gargle the mouth twice daily with 2 ta­ble­spoon­fuls of the mixture in a glass of water.

VIII.— Sodium bicarbonate 2 parts

Distilled water 70 parts

Spirit of cochlearia 30 parts

Mix a half-teaspoonful in a wineglassful of water. Wash mouth two or three times daily.

Brick Stain.

To stain brick flat the color of brownstone, add black to Venetian red until the desired shade is obtained. If color ground in oil is used, thin with turpentine, using a little japan as a drier. If necessary to get the desired shade add yellow ocher to the mixture of red and black. If the work is part old and part new, rub the wall down, using a brick {134} for a rubber, until the surface is uniform, and keep it well wet while rubbing with cement water, made by stirring Portland cement into water until the water looks the color of the cement. This operation fills the pores of the brick and makes a smooth, uniform surface to paint on. Tinge the wash with a little dry Venetian red and lampblack. This will help bring the brick to a uniform color, so that an even color can be obtained with one coat of stain.

BRICKS: See Ceramics.

BRICKS OF SAND-LIME: See Stone, Artificial.

BRICK POLISHES: See Polishes.

BRICK WALLS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods and Household Formulas.

BRICK WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.

BRICKMAKERS’ NOTES: See Ceramics.

BRIDGE PAINT: See Paint.

BRILLIANTINE: See Hair Preparations.

BRIMSTONE (BURNING): See Pyrotechnics.

BRIONY ROOTS: THEIR PRESERVATION: See Roots.

BRITANNIA METAL: See Alloys.

BRITANNIA METAL, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

BRITANNIA, SILVERPLATING: See Plating.

BROMINE, ANTISEPTIC: See Antiseptics.

Bromoform.

Bromoform is insoluble in dilute alcohol, but may be dissolved by the aid of glycerine. The following formula has been devised:

Bromoform 1 part

Alcohol 2 parts

Compound tincture of cardamon 2 parts

Glycerine 1 / 2 parts

Some other formulas are:

Syrup Of Bromoform.

—Bromoform, 5 parts; alcohol (95 per cent), 45 parts; glycerine, 150 parts; syrup, 800 parts. Mix in the order given and place the container in warm water until the syrup becomes perfectly clear.

Emulsion Of Bromoform.

—Add 3 parts of bromoform to 20 parts of expressed oil of almond; emulsify this mixture in the usual manner with 2 parts of powdered tragacanth, 4 parts of powdered acacia, and sufficient water, using for the completed emulsion a total of 120 parts of water, and add, finally, 4 parts of cherry-laurel water.

Bromoform Rum.

—Bromoform, 1.2 parts; chloroform, 0.8 parts; rum, sufficient to make 120 parts. Claimed to be an effective remedy in the treatment of whooping cough.

BRONZES: See Alloys.

BRONZE CASTING: See Casting.

BRONZE, IMITATION: See Plaster.

BRONZE POLISHES: See Polishes.

BRONZE, RENOVATION OF: See Cleaning Compounds.

Bronze Powders, Liquid Bronzes, Bronze Substitutes, and Bronzing

Bronze Powders.

Gold bronze is a mixture of equal parts of oxide of tin and sulphur, which are heated for some time in an earthen retort. Silver bronze is a mixture of equal parts of bismuth, tin, and mercury, which are fused in a crucible, adding the mercury only when the tin and the bismuth are in fusion. Next reduce to a very fine powder. To apply these bronzes, white of egg, gum arabic, or varnish is used. It is preferable to apply them dry upon one of the above-named mediums serving as size, than to mix them with the liquids themselves, for in the latter case their luster is impaired.

Simple Coloring Of Bronze Powder.

—In order to impart different colors to {135} bronze powders, such as pale yellow, dark yellow to copper red, the powder is heated with constant stirring in flat iron pans until through the oxidation of the copper—the bronzes consist of the brass powder of an alloy from which the so-called Dutch gold is produced—the desired shade of color is reached. As a rule a very small quantity of fat, wax, or even paraffine is added in this operation. The bronze powders are employed to produce coatings or certain finishes on metals themselves or to give articles of wood, stone, pasteboard, etc., a metallic appearance.

General Directions For Bronzing.

—The choice of bronze powders is determined by the degree of brilliancy to be obtained. The powder is mixed with strong gum water or isinglass, and laid on with a brush or pencil, almost but not absolutely dry. A piece of soft leather, wrapped around the finger, is dipped into the powder and rubbed over the work; when all this has been covered with the bronze it must be left to dry, and the loose powder is then cleared away with a hair pencil.

Liquid Bronzes.

Liquid Bronzes.

—I.—For the production of liquid bronze, acid-free varnish should be used, as bronze ground with ordinary varnish will form verdigris. For the deacidification of dammar rosin pour 1,000 parts of petroleum benzine over 350 parts of finely ground dammar rosin, and dissolve by repeated shaking. Next add to the solution 250 parts of a 10-per-cent aqueous solution of caustic soda and shake up well for 10 minutes. After standing for a short time two strata will have formed, the upper one consisting of benzine-rosin solution and the lower, aqueous one containing the resinic acid dissolved as soda salts. Pour off the benzine layers and agitate again assiduously with 250 parts of the 10-per-cent caustic-soda solution. Now set aside for a complete classification and separation of the two liquids. The dammar solution siphoned off will be perfectly free from acid. To obtain gold-bronze varnish add to the deacidified dammar solution about 250 parts of bronze or brocade per liter.

II.—Or else carefully mix 100 parts of finely ground dammar rosin with 30 parts of calcined soda and heat to fusion, in which state it is maintained 2 or 3 hours with frequent stirring. Let cool, grind the turbid mass obtained, and pour a little coal benzine or petroleum benzine over it in a flask. By repeated shaking of the flask the soluble portion of the molten mass is dissolved; filter after allowing to settle; into the filtrate put 300 to 400 parts of bronze powder of any desired shade, the brocades being especially well adapted for this purpose. If the metallic powder remains distributed over the mass for a long time it is of the right consistency; if it deposits quickly it is too thin and a part of the solvent must be evaporated before stirring in the bronze powder.

III.—A liquid bronze, which, while it contains no metallic constituent, yet possesses a metallic luster and a bronze appearance, and answers excellently for many purposes, is made as follows: Dissolve by the aid of gentle heat 10 parts of aniline red and 5 parts of aniline purple in 100 parts of alcohol. When solution is complete, add 5 parts of benzoic acid, raise the heat, and let boil from 5 to 10 minutes, or until the greenish color of the mixture passes over to a clear bronze brown. For “marbling” or bronzing paper articles, this answers particularly well.

Incombustible Bronze Tincture.

—Finely pulverize 5 parts, by weight, of prime Dammar rosin and 1.5 parts of ammonia soda. Heat gently, and stir frequently, until no more carbonic acid bubbles up. Cool and pulverize again. Put the powder into a glass carboy, and pour over it 50 parts of carbon tetrachloride; let this stand for 2 days, stirring frequently. Then filter. Ten parts of the fluid are mixed with 5 parts of metallic bronze of any desired shade, and put into bottles. Shake well before using.

General Formulas For Bronzing Preparations.

—I.—Take 240 parts subacetate of copper, 120 parts oxide of zinc in powder form, 60 parts borax, 60 parts saltpeter, and 3.5 parts corrosive sublimate. Prepare a paste from it with oil, stir together, and continue working with boiled linseed oil and turpentine.

II.—Dissolve 120 parts sulphate of copper and add 120 parts chipping of tin; stir well and gather the precipitating copper. After complete drying, grind very finely in boiled linseed oil and turpentine.

III.—Melt in a crucible 60 parts sulphur and 60 parts stannic acid; stir with a clay tube until the mixture takes on the appearance of Dutch gold and pour out. When cold mix the color with boiled linseed oil and turpentine, adding a small quantity of drier. These three bronzes must be covered with a pale, resistant {136} lacquer, otherwise they will soon tarnish in rooms where gas is burned.

Florentine Bronzes.

—I.—To produce a Florentine bronzing, apply to the articles, which must have previously been dipped, a varnish composed of cherry gum lac dissolved in alcohol. This varnish is put on with a brush, and after that the bronzed piece is passed through the stove.

II.—If the article is of brass it must be given a coat of copper by means of the battery. Next dip a brush in olive oil and brush the piece uniformly; let dry for 5 or 6 hours and place in sawdust. Then heat the article on a moderate charcoal dust fire.

Preparation Of French Bronze.

—French bronze may be prepared by reducing to a powder hematite, 5 parts, and plumbago, 8 parts, and mixing into a paste with spirit of wine. Apply the composition with a soft brush to the article to be bronzed and set it aside for some hours. By polishing with a tolerably hard brush the article will assume the beautiful appearance of real bronze. The desired tint may be regulated by the proportions of the ingredients.

How To Bronze Metals.

—Prepare a solution of 1 / 2 ounces of sodium hyposulphite in 1 pint of water and add to the same a solution of 1 / 2 ounces of lead acetate dissolved in 1 pint of water.

If, instead of lead acetate, an equal weight of sulphuric acid (1 / 2 ounces) is added to the sodium hyposulphite and the process carried on as before, the brass becomes coated with a very beautiful red, which changes to green, and finally a splendid brown with a green and red iridescence. This last is a very durable coating and may be especially recommended. It is very difficult to obtain exact shades by this process without some experience. The thorough cleansing of all articles from grease by boiling in potash is absolutely necessary to success. By substituting other metal salts for the lead acetate many changes in tints and quality of the coatings can also be effected.

When this mixture is heated to a temperature a little below the boiling point it precipitates sulphide of lead in a state of fine division. If some metal is present some of the lead is precipitated on the surface and, according to the thickness of the layer, different colors are produced. To produce an even color the articles must be evenly heated. By immersion of brass articles for 5 minutes the same may be coated with colors varying from gold to copper red, then to carmine, dark red, and from light blue to blue white, and at last a reddish white, depending on the time the metal remains in the solution and the temperature used. Iron objects treated in this solution take a steel-blue color, zinc a brown color. In the case of copper objects a golden yellow cannot be obtained.

New Bronzing Liquid.

—Dissolve 10 parts of fuchsine and 5 parts of aniline purple in 100 parts of alcohol (95 per cent) and add to the solution 5 parts of benzoic acid. Boil the whole for 10 minutes until the color turns bronze brown. This liquid can be applied to all metals and dries quickly.

A Bronze For Brass.

—Immerse the articles, freed from dirt and grease, in a cold solution of 10 parts of potassium permanganate, 50 parts of iron sulphate, 5 parts of hydrochloric acid in 1,000 parts of water. Let remain 30 seconds, then withdraw, rinse, and let dry in fine, soft sawdust. If the articles have become too dark, or if a reddish-brown color be desired, immerse for about 1 minute in a warm (140° F.) solution of chromic acid, 10 parts; hydrochloric acid, 10 parts; potassium permanganate, 10 parts; iron sulphate, 50 parts; water, 1,000 parts. Treat as before. If the latter solution alone be used the product will be a brighter dark-yellow or reddish-brown color. By heating in a drying oven the tone of the colors is improved.

To Bronze Copper.

—This process is analogous to the one practiced at the Mint of Paris for bronzing medals.

Spread on the copper object a solution composed of:

Acetate or chlorhydrate of ammonia 30 parts

Sea salt 10 parts

Cream of tartar 10 parts

Acetate of copper 10 parts

Diluted acetic acid 100 parts

Let dry for 24 to 48 hours at an ordinary temperature. The surface of the metal will become covered with a series of varying tints. Brush with a waxed brush. The green portions soaked with chlorhydrate of ammonia will assume a blue coloring, and those treated with carbonate will be thick and darkened.

Bronzing And Patinizing Of Small Zinc Articles.

—Coatings of bronze tones and patina shades may be produced on zinc by means of various liquids, but the {137} articles, before being worked upon, should be rubbed down with very fine glass or emery paper, to make them not only perfectly metallic, but also somewhat rough, as a consequence of which the bronze or patina coatings will adhere much better. The best bronze or patina effects on bronze are obtained by electroplating the article with a fairly thick deposit of brass rich in copper and then treating it like genuine bronze. The solutions used, however, must always be highly diluted, otherwise they may eat entirely through the thin metallic coating.

Bronzing Of Zinc.

—Mix thoroughly 30 parts of sal ammoniac, 10 parts of oxalate of potash, and 1,000 parts of vinegar. Apply with a brush or a rag several times, until the desired tint is produced.

Bronze Gilding On Smooth Moldings.

—A perfect substitute for dead gilding cannot be obtained by bronzing, because of the radically different reflection of the light, for the matt gilding presents to the light a perfectly smooth surface, while in bronzing every little scale of bronze reflects the light in a different direction. In consequence of this diffusion of light, all bronzing, even the best executed, is somewhat darker and dimmer than leaf gilding. This dimness, it is true, extends over the whole surface, and therefore is not perceptible to the layman, and cannot be called an evil, as the genuine leaf gold is so spotted that a bronzed surface is cleaner than a gilt one. The following process is the best known at present: Choose only the best bronze, which is first prepared thick with pure spirit. Next add a quantity of water and stir again. After the precipitation, which occurs promptly, the water is poured off and renewed repeatedly by fresh water. When the spirit has been washed out again in this manner, the remaining deposit, i. e., the bronze, is thinned with clean, good gold size. The bronze must be thin enough just to cover. The moldings are coated twice, the second time commencing at the opposite end. Under no circumstances should the dry, dead gilding give off color when grasping it firmly. If it does that, either the size is inferior or the solution too weak or the mixture too thick.

Incombustible Bronze Tincture.

—Five parts of prime dammar rosin and 1.5 parts of ammonia soda, very finely pulverized. Heat gently, with frequent stirring, until the evolution of carbonic acid ceases. Then take from the fire, and when cool pulverize again. Put the powder into a glass carboy, and pour over it 50 parts of carbon tetrachloride; let this stand for 2 days, stirring frequently, then filter. Ten parts of the fluid are to be mixed with each 5 parts of metallic bronze of any desired shade, and put into bottles. Shake the tincture well before using.

Bronzing Engraved Ornaments.

—Take bronze and stir with it pale copal varnish diluted one-half with turpentine. With this paint the ornaments neatly. In / 2 hour the bronze will have dried. The places from which the bronze is to be removed, i. e., where the bronze has overrun the polished surface, are dabbed with a small rag soaked with kerosene, taking care that it is not too wet, so as to prevent the kerosene from running into the ornament. After a short while the bronze will have dissolved and can be wiped off with a soft rag. If this does not remove it entirely, dab and wipe again. Finally finish wiping with an especially soft, clean rag. Kerosene does not attack polish on wood. The bronze must become dull and yet adhere firmly, under which condition it has a hardened color. If it does not become dull the varnish is too strong and should be diluted with turpentine.

Durable Bronze On Banners.

—To render bronzes durable on banners, etc., the ground must be primed with gum arabic and a little glycerine. Then apply the bronze solution, prepared with dammar and one-tenth varnish. Instead of gum arabic with glycerine, gelatine glue may also be employed as an underlay.

Bronze Substitutes.

The following recipe is used in making imitation gold bronzes:

Sandarac 50 parts

Mastic 10 parts

Venice turpentine 5 parts

Alcohol 135 parts

In the above dissolve:

Metanil yellow and gold orange 0.4 parts

and add

Aluminum, finely powdered 20 parts

and shake.

If a deeper shade is desired it is well to use ethyl orange and gold orange in the same proportion, instead of the dyes.

For the production of imitation copper bronze take the above-mentioned rosin mixture and dissolve therein only gold {138} orange 0.8 parts, and add aluminum 20 parts, whereby a handsome copper color is produced. Metanil yellow 0.4 parts without gold orange gives with the same amount of lacquer a greenish tone of bronze. The pigments must not be made use of in larger quantities, because the luster of the bronze is materially affected. Only pigments of certain properties, such as solubility in alcohol, relative constancy to reductive agents, are suitable; unsuitable are, for instance, naphthol yellow, phenylene-diamin, etc. Likewise only a lacquer of certain composition is fit for use, other lacquers of commerce, such as zapon (celluloid) lacquer being unsuitable. The bronzes prepared in this manner excel in luster and color effect; the cost is very low. They are suitable for bronzing low-priced articles, as tinware, toys, etc. Under the action of sun and moisture the articles lose some of their luster, but objects kept indoors such as figures of plaster of Paris, inkstands, wooden boxes, etc., retain their brilliancy for years.

Some use powdered aluminum and yellow organic dyestuffs, such as gold orange. These are employed together with a varnish of certain composition, which imparts the necessary gloss to the mixture.

Bronze Coloring:

To Color Bronze.

—Bronze articles acquire handsome tempering colors by heating. In order to impart an old appearance to new objects of bronze, they may be heated over a flame and rubbed with a woolen rag dipped in finely powdered graphite, until the desired shade is attained. Or else a paste is applied on the article, consisting of graphite 5 parts and bloodstone 15 parts, with a sufficient quantity of alcohol. After 24 hours brush off the dry powder. A hot solution composed of sal ammoniac 4 parts, sorrel salt 1 part, vinegar 200 parts, may also be brushed on. Another way is to dip the pieces into a boiling solution of cupric acetate 20 parts, and sal ammoniac 10 parts, dissolved in 60 to 100 parts of vinegar.

Patent bronzes (products colored by means of aniline dyes) have hitherto been used in the manufacture of toys and de luxe or fancy paper, but makers of wall or stained paper have recently given their attention to these products. Wall—or moiré—paper prepared with these dyes furnishes covers or prints of silken gloss with a peculiar double-color effect in which the metallic brilliancy characteristic of bronze combines with the shades of the tar pigments used. Very beautiful reliefs, giving rise to the most charming play of colors in perpendicular or laterally reflected light, are produced by pressing the paper lengths or web painted with aniline-bronze dyes. The brass brocade and tin bronzes serve as bases for the aniline dyes; of the tar pigments only basic aniline dyes soluble in alcohol are used. In coloring the pulverized bronze care must be taken that the latter is as free as possible from organic fats. Tar dyes should be dissolved in as concentrated a form as possible in alcohol and stirred with the bronze, the pigment being then fixed on the vehicle with an alcoholic solution of tannin. The patent bronze is then dried by allowing the alcohol to evaporate. This method of coloring is purely mechanical, as the tar dyes do not combine with the metallic bronze, as is the case with pigments in which hydrate of alumina is used. A coating of aniline bronze of this kind is therefore very sensitive to moisture, unless spread over the paper surface with a suitable protective binding medium, or protected by a transparent coat of varnish, which of course must not interfere with the special color effect.

Pickle For Bronzes.

—Sulphuric acid, 1,000 parts; nitric acid, 500 parts; soot, 10 parts; sea salt, 5 parts.

Imitation Japanese Bronze.

—When the copper or coppered article is perfectly dry and the copper or copper coating made brilliant, which is produced by rubbing with a soft brush, put graphite over the piece to be bronzed so that the copper is simply dyed. Wipe off the raised portions with a damp cloth, so that the copper makes its appearance. Next put on a thin coat of Japanese varnish; wipe the relief again and let dry. Apply 1 or 2 coats after the first is perfectly dry. Handsome smoked hues may be obtained by holding the bronze either over the dust of lighted peat or powdered rosin thrown on lighted coal, so as to obtain a smoke which will change the color of the varnish employed. The varnish must be liquid enough to be worked easily, for this style of bronzing is only applicable to brass.

Green Bronze On Iron.

—Abietate of silver, 1 part; essence of lavender, 19 parts. Dissolve the abietate of silver in the essence of lavender. After the articles have been well pickled apply the abietate-of-silver solution with a brush; next place the objects in a stove and let the temperature attain about 150° C.

Blue Bronze.

—Blue bronze is {139} produced by the wet process by coloring white bronze (silver composition) with aniline blue. A blue-bronze color can be produced in the ordinary way from white-bronze color, the product of pure English tin, and with an alum solution consisting of 20 parts of alum in 4,500 parts of water boiled for 5 hours and washed clean and dried. The bronze prepared in this manner is placed in a porcelain dish, mixed with a solution of 15 parts of aniline blue in 1,500 parts of alcohol, stirring the bronze powder and liquid until the alcohol has evaporated entirely and the bronze color becomes dry. This manipulation must be repeated 6 or 8 times, until the desired blue shade is reached. When the bronze is dark enough it is washed out in warm water, and before entirely dry 1 ta­ble­spoon­ful of petroleum is poured on 2 pounds of bronze, which is intimately mixed and spread out into a thin layer, exposed to the air, whereby the smell is caused to disappear in a few days.

Bronzing With Soluble Glass.

—To bronze wood, porcelain, glass, and metal by means of a water-glass solution, coat the article with potash water-glass of 30° Bé. and sprinkle on the respective bronze powder.

Brown Oxidation On Bronze.

—Genuine bronze can be beautifully oxidized by painting it with a solution of 4 parts of sal ammoniac and 1 part of oxalium (oxalate of potash) in 200 parts of vinegar, allowing it to dry, and repeating the operation several times. These articles, protected against rain, soon lose the unpleasant glaring metallic luster and assume instead a soft brown tint, which bronze articles otherwise acquire only after several years’ exposure to the atmosphere. A beautiful bronze color which will remain unaffected by heat can be imparted to bronze articles by the following process: The object is first washed in a solution of 1 part of crystallized verdigris and 2 parts of sal ammoniac in 260 parts of water, and then dried before an open fire till the green color begins to disappear. The operation is repeated 10 to 20 times, but with a solution of 1 part of verdigris crystals and 2 parts of sal ammoniac in 600 parts of water. The color of the article, olive green at first, gradually turns to brown, which will remain unaltered even when exposed to strong heat.

Bronze Powders:

See also Plating for general methods of bronzing, and Varnishes.

Gold And Silver Bronze Powders.

—Genuine gold bronze is produced from the waste and parings obtained in gold beating. The parings, etc., are ground with honey or a gum solution, upon a glass plate or under hard granite stones, into a very fine powder, which is repeatedly washed out with water and dried. There are various shades of gold bronze, viz., red, reddish, deep yellow, pale yellow, as well as greenish. These tints are caused by the various percentages of gold or the various mixtures of the gold with silver and copper.

By the use of various salt solutions or acidulated substances other shades can be imparted to bronze. In water containing sulphuric acid, nitric acid, or hydrochloric acid, it turns a bright yellow; by treatment with a solution of crystallized verdigris or blue vitriol in water it assumes more of a reddish hue; other tints are obtained with the aid of cooking salt, tartar, green vitriol, or saltpeter in water.

Gold bronze is also obtained by dissolving gold in aqua regia and mixing with a solution of green vitriol in water, whereupon the gold falls down as a metallic powder which may be treated in different ways. The green vitriol, however, must be dissolved in boiling water and mixed in a glass, drop by drop, with sulphuric acid and stirred until the basic iron sulphate separating in flakes has redissolved. Another way of producing gold bronze is by dissolving gold in aqua regia and evaporating the solution in a porcelain dish. When it is almost dry add a little pure hydrochloric acid and repeat this to drive out all the free chlorine and to produce a pure hydrochlorate of gold. The gold salt is dissolved in distilled water, taking / 2 liter per ducat (3 / 2 grams fine gold); into this solution drop, while stirring by means of a glass rod, an 8° solution (by Beaumé) of antimony chloride, as long as a precipitate forms. This deposit is gold bronze, which, dried after removal of all liquids, is chiefly employed in painting, for bronzing, and for china and glass decoration.

Metallic gold powder is, furthermore, obtained by dissolving pure and alloyed gold in aqua regia and precipitating it again by an electro-positive metal, such as iron or zinc, which is placed in the liquid in the form of rods. The gold is completely separated thereby. The rods must be perfectly clean and polished bright. The color of the gold bronze depends upon the proportions of the gold. In order to further increase the brilliancy the dried substance may still be ground. {140}

Mosaic Gold.

—Mosaic gold, generally a compound of tin, 64.63 parts, and sulphur, 35.37 parts, is odorless and tasteless, and dissolves only in chlorine solution, aqua regia, and boiling potash lye. It is employed principally for bronzing plaster-of-Paris figures, copper, and brass, by mixing it with 6 parts of bone ashes, rubbing it on wet, or applying it with varnish or white of egg in the preparation of gold paper or for gilding cardboard and wood. Mosaic gold of golden-yellow color is produced by heating 6 parts of sulphur and 16 parts of tin amalgam with equal parts of mercury and 4 parts of sulphur; 8 parts of precipitate from stannic muriate (stannic acid) and 4 parts of sulphur also give a handsome mosaic gold.

The handsomest, purest, and most gold-like mosaic gold is obtained by melting 12 parts of pure tin, free from lead, and mixing with 6 parts of mercury to an amalgam. This is mixed with 7 parts of flowers of sulphur and 6 parts of sal ammoniac, whereupon the mass is subjected for several hours to a heat which at first does not attain redness, but eventually when no more fumes are generated is increased to dark-red heat. This operation is conducted either in a glass retort or in an earthenware crucible. The sal ammoniac escapes first on heating, next vermilion sublimates and some stannic chloride, while the mosaic gold remains on the bottom, the upper layer, consisting of lustrous, golden, delicately translucent leaflets, being the handsomest mosaic gold.

Genuine Silver Bronze.

—This is obtained by the finely ground waste from beating leaf silver or by dissolving silver in aqua fortis. This solution is then diluted with water and brightly scoured copper plates are put in, whereby the silver precipitates as a metallic powder.

Imitation Silver Bronze.

—This is obtained through the waste in beating imitation leaf silver, which, finely ground, is then washed and dried. In order to increase the luster it is ground again in a dry condition.

Mosaic Silver.

—Mosaic silver is an amalgam of equal parts of mercury, bismuth, and tin. One may also melt 50 parts of good tin in a crucible, and as soon as it becomes liquid add 50 parts of bismuth, stirring all with an iron wire until the bismuth is fused as well. As soon as this occurs the crucible must be removed from the fire; then stir in, as long as the contents are still liquid, 25 parts of mercury and mix the whole mass evenly until it can be ground on a stone slab.

BRONZE VARNISHES: See Varnishes.

BRONZING SOLUTIONS FOR PAINTS: See Paints.

BRONZING OF WOOD: See Wood.

BROOCHES, PHOTOGRAPHS ON: See Photography.

BROWN OINTMENT: See Ointments.

BROWNING OF STEEL: See Plating.

BROWNSTONE, IMITATION: See Brick Stain.

BRUNETTE POWDER: See Cosmetics.

Brushes

How to Take Care of Paint And Varnish Brushes.

It is a good plan to fill the varnish brush before putting it in the keeper.

Whitewash or kalsomine brushes should not be put into newly slaked lime or hot kalsomine.

Cement-set brushes should never be put in any alcohol mixture, such as shelacs and spirit stains.

Varnish brushes should be selected with a view to their possessing the following qualities: 1st, excellence of material; 2d, excellence of make, which includes fullness of hair or bristles and permanency of binding; 3d, life and spring, or elasticity sufficient to enable the varnisher to spread the varnish without reducing it with turpentine; and 4th, springing, when in use, to a true chisel edge.

Temperature For Brushes.

—The bristles of every brush are held in place by the handle. It passes through the shank of the brush and is kiln-dried to fit perfectly. If it shrinks, however, its outward tension is lost and the bristles loosened. For this reason the first principle in brush care is to keep the tool, when it is new or not soaking, in a cool place, out of hot rooms, and any temperature that would tend to shrink the wood of the handle.

Cleaning Paint Brushes.

—No new brush should be dipped in the paint and put to work without first being {141} cleaned. By working it with a brisk movement back and forth through the hand most of the dust and loose hairs will be taken out. A paint brush, when thus thoroughly dry cleaned, should be placed in water for a few minutes, not long enough to soak or swell it, but only until wet through, and then swung and shaken dry. It is then ready to dip in the paint, and although some of the hairs may still be loose, most of them will come out in the first few minutes’ working and can be easily picked from the surface.

Cleaning Varnish Brushes.

—Varnish brushes, and brushes used in varnish stain, buggy paint, and all color in varnish require different handling than paint brushes. They should be more thoroughly dry cleaned, in order that all loose hairs may be worked out. After working them through the hand it is a good thing to pass the brush back and forth over a sheet of sandpaper. This rough surface will pull out the loose bristles and smooth down the rough ends of the chisel point. The brush should then be washed by working it for a few minutes in clean turpentine and swinging it dry. It should never be put in water. For carriage work and fine varnishing the brush should be broken in on the rubbing coat in order to work out all the dust particles before it is used on the finishing coats.

Setting The Paint-brush Bristles.

—For the first 2 or 3 days new brushes require special care while at rest. They should be dipped in raw oil or the paint itself and smoothed out carefully, then laid on their sides over night. The chisel-pointed brushes should be set at an incline, the handle supported just enough to allow the brush to lie along the point. This is done to prevent twisting of the bristles, and to keep the shape of the brush. It is necessary to do this only 2 or 3 times before the shape becomes set.

Paint Brushes At Rest.

—An important principle in brush care is never to leave the brush on end while at rest. Even for temporary rest during a job the brush should never stand on end. At night it should always be placed in a “brush-keeper”—a water-tight box, or a paint keg, with nails driven through the sides on which the brushes can be suspended in water. Holes are bored in the handles so the brush will hang free of the bottom, but with the bristles entirely under water. Before placing them in water the brushes should be wiped so as not to be too full of paint, but not cleaned.

Varnish Brushes At Rest.

—Varnish brushes should be kept at rest in turpentine and varnish, or better, in some of the varnish that the brush is used for. They should preferably not be kept in turpentine, as that makes the brush “lousy”—roughening the bristles.

Washing Brushes.

—All brushes should be washed in benzine or turpentine and shaken dry—not whipped—when it is desired to change from one color to another, or from one varnish to another.

To Restore Brushes.

—A good remedy to restore lettering brushes which have lost their elasticity and do not keep a point, is as follows:

Put the pencil in oil and brush it several times over a hot iron in such a manner that the hairs touch the iron from each side; then dip the pencil quickly in cold water.

A Removable Binding.

—The bristle bunch of brushes is bound with rope so as to keep them together for use. Instead of the twine, a covering of rubber may be employed, which is easily slipped over the bristles and can be conveniently removed again. The cleaning of the brush is much facilitated thereby, and the breadth of the stripe to be drawn with the brush can be accurately regulated, according to how far the covering is slipped over the brush.

See also Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

BUBBLES IN GELATIN: See Gelatin.

BUBBLE (SOAP) LIQUID: See Soap Bubble Liquid.

Bubbles.

Bubbles of air often adhere to molds immersed in depositing solutions. They may be prevented by previously dipping the object into spirits of wine, or be removed by the aid of a soft brush, or by directing a powerful current of the liquid against them by means of a vulcanized india-rubber bladder, with a long and curved glass tube attached to it; but the liquid should be free from sediment.

BUG KILLERS: See Insecticides.

BUNIONS: See Corn Cures. {142}

Burns:

See also Ointments and Turpentine.

Mixture For Burns.

—I.—A mixture of castor oil with the white of egg is recommended for burns. The eggs are broken into a bowl and the castor oil slowly poured in while the eggs are beaten. Enough oil is added to make a thick, creamy paste, which is applied to the burn. The applications are repeated often enough to prevent their becoming dry or sticky. Leave the surface uncovered.

II.—Put 27 parts, by measure, of menthol into 44 parts, by measure, of witch hazel (distillate) and apply freely. A good plan is to bandage the parts and wet the wrappings with this mixture.

III.—A very efficacious remedy for burns is a solution of cooking salt in water. It is best to immerse fingers, hands, and arms in the solution, which must be tolerably strong. For burns in the face and other parts of the body, salt water poultices are applied.

Butter

(See also Foods.)

Butter Color.

—Orlean, 80 parts, by weight; curcuma root (turmeric), 80 parts, by weight; olive oil, 240 parts, by weight; saffron, 1 part, by weight; alcohol, 5 parts, by weight. The orlean and turmeric are macerated with olive oil and expressed. The weight of the filtered liquid is made up again to 240 parts, by weight, with olive oil, next the filtered saffron-alcohol extract is added, and the alcohol is expelled again by heating the mixture.

Artificial Butter.

—I.—Carefully washed beef suet furnishes a basis for the manufactures of an edible substitute for natural butter. The thoroughly washed and finely chopped suet is rendered in a steam-heated tank; 1,000 parts of fat, 300 parts of water, 1 part of potassium carbonate, and 2 stomachs of pigs or sheep, are taken. The temperature of the mixture is raised to 113° F. After 2 hours, under the influence of the pepsin in the stomachs, the membranes are dissolved and the fat is melted and rises to the top of the mixture. After the addition of a little salt the melted fat is drawn off, stood to cool so as to allow the stearine and palmitin to separate, and then pressed in bags in a hydraulic press. Forty to 50 per cent of solid stearine remains, while 50 to 60 per cent of fluid oleopalmitin (so-called “oleomargarine”) is pressed out. The “oleo oil” is then mixed with 10 per cent of its weight of milk and a little butter color and churned. The product is then worked, salted, and constituted the “oleomargarine,” or butter substitute. Leaf lard can be worked in the same way as beef suet, and will yield an oleopalmitin suitable for churning up into a butter substitute.

II.—Fat from freshly slaughtered cattle after thorough washing is placed in clean water and surrounded with ice, where it is allowed to remain until all animal heat has been removed. It is then cut into small pieces by machinery and cooked at a temperature of about 150° F. (65.6° C.) until the fat in liquid form has separated from the tissue, then settled until it is perfectly clear. Then it is drawn into the graining vats and allowed to stand for a day, when it is ready for the presses. The pressing extracts the stearine, leaving a product commercially known as oleo oil which, when churned with cream or milk, or both, and with usually a proportion of creamery butter, the whole being properly salted, gives the new food product, oleomargarine.

III.—In making butterine use neutral lard, which is made from selected leaf lard in a very similar manner to oleo oil, excepting that no stearine is extracted. This neutral lard is cured in salt brine for from 48 to 70 hours at an ice-water temperature. It is then taken and, with the desired proportion of oleo oil and fine butter, is churned with cream and milk, producing an article which when properly salted and packed is ready for the market. In both cases coloring matter is used, which is the same as that used by dairymen to color their butter. At certain seasons of the year—viz., in cold weather, a small quantity of sesame oil or salad oil made from cottonseed oil is used to soften the texture of the product.

IV.—“Ankara” is a substance which in general appearance resembles a good article of butter, being rather firmer at ordinary temperatures than that substance, approaching the consistency of cocoa butter. It is quite odorless, but in taste it resembles that of a fair article of butter and, what is more, its behavior under heat is very similar to that of butter—it browns and forms a sort of spume like that of fat. Ankara consists of a base of cocoa butter, carrying about 10 per cent of milk, colored with yolk of egg. While not derived from milk, on the one hand, nor does it come from a single vegetable or animal fat on the other, {143} ankara may be considered as belonging to the category of the margarines. Ankara is obtained in the market in the form of cakes or tablets of 2 pounds in weight.

V.—Fresh butter, 150 parts, by weight; animal fat, 80 parts, by weight; sunflower oil, 40 parts, by weight; cocoanut oil, 30 parts, by weight.

VI.—Fresh butter, 100 parts, by weight; animal fat, 100 parts, by weight; sunflower oil, 80 parts, by weight; cocoanut oil, 20 parts, by weight.

VII.—Fresh butter, 50 parts, by weight; animal fat, 150 parts, by weight; sunflower oil, 80 parts, by weight; cocoanut oil, 20 parts, by weight.

It is seen that these three varieties contain respectively 50, 33, and about 16 per cent of cow’s butter. The appearance of the mixture is nearly perfect.

Formulas V to VII are for a Russian artificial butter called “Perepusk.”

To Impart The Aroma And Taste Of Natural Butter To Margarine.

—In order to give margarine the aroma and flavor of cow butter, add to it a fatty acid product, which is obtained by saponification of butter, decomposition of the soap, and distillation in the vacuum at about 140° F. The addition of the product is made upon emulsification of the fats with milk. The margarine will keep for months.

Harmless Butter Color.

—Alum, pulverized finely, 30 parts; extract of turmeric, 1 part. With the extract dampen the powder as evenly as possible, then spread out and dry over some hot surface. When dry, again pulverize thoroughly. Protect the product from the light. As much of the powder as will lie on the point of a penknife is added to a churnful of milk, or cream, before churning, and it gives a beautiful golden color, entirely harmless. To make the extract of turmeric add 1 part of powdered turmeric to 5 parts of alcohol, and let macerate together for fully a week.

To Sweeten Rancid Butter.

—I.—Wash the butter first with fresh milk and afterwards with spring water, carefully working out the residual water.

II.—Add 25 to 30 drops of lime chloride to every 2 pounds of butter, work the mass up thoroughly, then wash in plenty of fresh, cold water, and work out the residual water.

III.—Melt the butter in a water bath, along with some freshly burned animal charcoal, coarsely powdered and carefully sifted to free it from dust. After this has remained in contact for a few minutes, the butter is strained through a clean flannel. If the rancid odor is not completely removed, complete the process.

An English Margarine.