Chapter III. Equitation and Driving

25. Standard required of men and horses.

1. The efficiency of horse and field artillery depends so largely on the riding of the men and on the training and condition of the horses that the maintenance of a high standard of equitation must be the aim of the commander of every unit.

2. Horsemanship and horsemastership are as essential to success as good eyesight or a knowledge of gunnery. The development of a horse’s powers by means of a progressive course of physical training and by the adoption of uniform methods of control is as important as the training of a man to ride.

3. Horsemastership is a necessary qualification for all artillery commanders, and horse-training should also be studied to ensure a high standard of equitation in a unit. Every section commander should be capable of instructing his men in horsemastership. In addition to being good military horsemen and instructors in riding, all officers must be able to train and direct the training of remounts.

4. The qualifications of a good horseman from an artilleryman’s point of view, are as follows:—

• i. He should have a strong seat, quite independent of the reins;
• in this way alone can he have good hands.
• ii. He must understand and be able to apply correctly the “aids”
• by which the horse is controlled.
• iii. He must be a good groom, have a practical knowledge of the care
• of horses both in barracks and in the field, and must understand
• how to detect and treat the minor ailments to which horses are
• liable.
• iv. He should be able to cover long distances on horseback
• with the least possible fatigue to his horse.

If a driver, he should be able to drive a pair of horses in any position in a gun team and make them do even work, without distressing them. He should also be able to get a fallen horse out of harness or out of a ditch.

No mounted man who does not attain this standard can be considered a really efficient horseman.

In every unit a limited number of men should be able to train an unbroken horse, and improve a badly-trained one.

5. The requisites of a useful artillery horse are as follows:—

• i. He must be a quiet ride, and capable of conveying a heavy weight
• over long distances, without undue fatigue.
• ii. Handy and quick in obeying the correct “aids.”
• iii. Steady both in and out of the ranks or team and capable of being
• ridden with one hand at any pace either in the company of other horses
• or alone.
• iv. Be a good jumper and ready to face water and swim.

26. Horsemastership.

1. General instructions.—The importance of being a good horsemaster should be impressed upon the mind of every recruit from the moment of his joining. He should understand that the efficiency of any body of mounted troops on service depends first and foremost on the condition of each horse, and that one tired horse in a gun team puts more work on the other five, and may necessitate extra weight being put on some other vehicle.

This important part of the soldier’s education demands individual attention on the part of every battery officer and non-commissioned officer, and it is their duty to see that the principles of horsemastership are so thoroughly explained to each man that the care of his horse becomes a second nature.

The recruit should receive careful instruction in the prevention and cure of the minor ailments of a horse, in his feeding and watering, and in his treatment on the march, in the field and in quarters. (See also Animal Management.)

2. Watering.—Men should be impressed with the importance of watering their horses when opportunity offers, particularly on hot days. Many a horse has died on service through his rider not taking what proved to be the only chance of giving him water during a long day. Horses which are accustomed to be watered in buckets drink slowly at a shallow stream, and consequently they should be given plenty of time. They never suffer ill-effects from being watered when heated, unless they are put to very severe exercise soon after it or are left to stand and get chilled.

All horses will benefit if water is available in their stalls.

3. Feeding.—Every opportunity should be taken when on service, or on a long march or field day to allow the horses to water and feed. Even a few mouthfuls of grass during a five minutes’ halt are worth consideration.

4. Weight off the back.—Even the lightest driver is a heavy burden (generally more than 11 stone including the saddle), and every minute that weight is removed from the horse’s back is a refreshing period of relief.

Instructors should impress this on recruits by frequently making them dismount for a few minutes at a time, so that it may become second nature with them to dismount and walk a good deal, especially down hill, if they should be called upon to work alone at any time. It should hardly ever be necessary for a man to remain on his horse at the halt, except in the case of teams that may come under fire.

5. Off saddling.—The two most frequent causes of sore backs are:—i. continued friction on one spot; ii. the stoppage of the circulation by continued pressure. Either of these is liable to occur if the saddle is left on for hours without being shifted or the girths slackened.

The “off saddle” can be effected very rapidly by all outriders and by horse artillery gunners if it be regularly practised. It is advisable in warm weather to do so once a day on the drill ground, or in the open county, whenever the horses are absent from their stables for any length of time. When the saddles are removed, the backs should be immediately hand-rubbed, slapped, or massaged by means of the flat of the hand for a few minutes, with steady pressure against the direction of the hair, in order to restore circulation. In cold weather, the girths should only be slackened, and the saddle shifted, as its removal may result in a chill.

The horses of gun teams cannot readily be off saddled, but any opportunity for loosening their girths and shifting the saddles should be taken. Such action relieves the horses in the same way that the removal of a tight boot does a man.

6. Shoeing.—From the first men should be taught to pay attention to their horses’ shoes, both in stables and in the field. The least sign of a shoe loose or clinches broken or knocked up should be reported and put right without delay.

A shoe lost in the field is a reflection on the man in charge of the horse as well as on the section commander, No. 1 and farrier.

7. Rolling in the sand.—Nothing rests a horse and freshens him up more than a good roll in the sand, and, when it can be arranged, a sand bath in barracks is most useful for teaching horses to roll in when sweating. The bath should be about 20 feet square, with sand 1 foot deep. A handful of sand poured over the back often induces a horse to lie down and roll. After rolling, any sand remaining on the horse’s back must be removed before he is again saddled.

27. Paces of the horse.

1. The following are the regulation paces for drill and manœuvre:—

• i. Walk 4 miles an hour, at which rate 117 yards are passed
• over in 1 minute, or ¼ mile in 3 minutes 45 seconds.
• ii. Trot 8 miles an hour, at which rate 235 yards are passed
• over in 1 minute, or ¼ mile in 1 minute 52 seconds.
• iii. Gallop is 12 miles an hour, at which rate 352 yards are
• passed over in 1 minute.

2. The canter, about 9 miles an hour, and the jog or slow trot, 6 miles an hour, should be constantly employed, both in teaching recruits to ride and in training young horses. Except in the case of artillery moving with infantry horses should always be made to walk up to the regulation pace of 4 miles per hour.

3. In marching, especially along a road, and when men are riding singly or in small groups not at drill a much slower trot should be used than the regulation drill or manœuvre trot of 8 miles per hour.

28. Terms used in equitation.

1. “Right rein” and “Left rein.”—A horse is said to be on the “right rein” when he is going round the school to the right, or on a circle to the right. The term “left rein” is used when he is proceeding to the left in a similar manner.

To avoid confusing the pupils the instructor as far as possible should use the terms “Right” or “Left” instead of “Outward” or “Inward” when giving explanations.

2. “The true canter” is a pace of three time. The legs of the horse should move in such a manner that whichever fore leg leads, the hind leg on the same side also leads. (See Sec. 43 (8)).

3. “The true gallop” is a pace of four time, in which the feet follow one another in succession, with an interval of suspension between the coming down of the leading fore foot and that of the opposite hind foot. As when cantering whichever fore leg leads, the hind leg on the same side must also lead.

4. “Cantering disunited” or “galloping disunited.”—When a horse is cantering or galloping in such a way that the leading hind leg is on the opposite side to the leading fore leg, e.g., when he leads with the off fore and near hind leg, he is said to be “disunited.” It is a common fault with bad riders in changing the bend of their horses to allow them to change their fore legs but not their hind legs. This results in the horse going “disunited,” a faulty action which should not be allowed.

5. “Cantering false” or “galloping false.”—A horse is said to be cantering false or galloping false, when at either of these paces, he goes on a circle to the left with the off fore and off hind leading, or to the right with the near fore and near hind leading.

6. Balance.—A riding horse on the move is said to be balanced when he carries his head and neck in the right position for balancing his weight and that of his rider.

7. Collected.—A horse is said to be collected when he is made to bring his limbs properly under him so that he has the maximum control over them. The collected paces are the school, or regulation, walk or trot, and the canter. The extended paces are the walk out, the trot out, and the gallop.

Fitting Saddlery.

(See also Animal Management.)

29. How to fit a saddle.

1. There are four axioms in saddle-fitting:—

• i. The withers must not be pinched or pressed upon.
• ii. The spine must have no pressure on it.
• iii. The shoulder-blade bones must have free and
• uncontrolled movement.
• iv. The weight must not be put on the loins, but upon
• the ribs through the medium of the muscles
• covering them.

2. In fitting a saddle the bare tree should first be placed on the back, the front arch resting in the hollow behind the shoulder.

The arch and seat should be clear of the spine. This is not always possible with horses possessing high withers, but it is desirable in order to ascertain the fit of the side bars.

The front arch must be wide enough to admit the hand on either side of the withers, and its points must clear the ribs.

The side bars must not be too long and must bear evenly on the back, or as nearly so as possible. Care must be taken that their edges do not press the withers or ribs.

3. The numnah pannels should then be fitted on and the tree replaced on the back, but without a blanket.

The proper thickness of the blanket having been estimated, it is folded and placed on the horse’s back with the tree on it. The blanket must be pressed up well into the front arch, and before girthing up it should be noticed whether the burrs are off the shoulders and the fans off the loins; if they are not, the thickness of the blanket beneath the side bars must be increased by turning it up on either side.

4. The girths should now be pulled up and a man placed in the saddle. The first thing to ascertain is whether there is freedom from wither pressure. The hand must readily find admission beneath the blanket and over the top and along both sides of the withers. To make the test effective, the man should lean forward, and the examiner must not be satisfied with anything less than the introduction of his entire hand.

The next thing is to ascertain whether there is freedom for shoulder-blade bone pressure. This is done by passing the hand beneath the blanket to the play of the shoulder. It should be possible to advance the horse’s foreleg to its full extent without the examiner’s fingers being pinched between the blade-bone and side-bar, even if the man is leaning forward in the saddle. If the fingers are pinched the blade-bone will also be pinched, and the saddle must be raised by fitting thicker numnah pannels on the side bar or by an extra fold of blanket.

5. To ascertain whether the pressure of the side-bars is evenly distributed, the saddle, having been ridden in for about half an hour, is carefully ungirthed, and the tree lifted from the blanket without disturbing it. The blanket will be found to bear the imprint of the side-bars, and a glance will show whether they are pressing evenly from top to bottom and from front to rear.

The examination must be made without delay, as the elasticity of the blanket soon causes it to lose the impression of the side-bars.

If there is a deeper impression on one part of the blanket than elsewhere, the pressure is not evenly distributed, and a sore back is liable to result.

Irregularity in the fit of the side-bars may be remedied by the introduction of pieces of numnah to fill up the space between the side-bars and the blanket.

In peace these strips of felt can be fixed in position with glue, but in the field they may have to be tied on, or secured with tacks, or best of all, bound in position by means of a piece of leather (basil) which can be tacked to the edge of the side-bar or laced with string across the top.

By means of these strips of felt the most radical alterations in the fit of a side bar can be effected in a few minutes by a man who has no technical skill.

30. Saddling.

1. The saddle should be placed in the middle of the horse’s back; the front of it so much behind the withers as not to interfere with the play of the shoulder.

The fans should clear the back, and the front arch should clear the withers to the breadth of not less than 2 fingers when the rider is in the saddle. The saddle, to afford a suitable seat for the rider, should have a level bearing on the horse’s back.

2. The blanket is not to rest on the horse’s withers, but should be slightly raised by placing the hand under it.

It can be folded in several ways. With a horse of normal shape and condition the following method is recommended:—The blanket is folded lengthways in three equal folds, one end is then turned over 24 inches, and the other turned into the pocket formed by the folds; the blanket thus folded is placed on the horse’s back with the thick part near the withers. Size when folded 2’ O“ × 1’ 8”, when unfolded 5’ 5“ × 4’ 8”. The folding of the blanket may be modified to suit special horses and to meet alterations in shape consequent upon falling way in condition, or from other causes. In the case of a horse which has fallen away in condition, and for certain shapes of back, a useful method is the “channel fold” The blanket is folded lengthways in three equal parts, each end is then turned over and folded towards the centre (two or three folds may be taken as required to suit the horse’s back), leaving a channel in the centre.

3. The girth should be sufficiently tight to keep the saddle in its place and no tighter. In saddling a horse, the girth must be tightened gradually, and not with violence. It is recommended that the girths of all except young and growing horses should be fitted with the buckle in the second or third hole from the free end of the tab.

4. The surcingle should lie flat over the girth, and be no tighter than the latter.

5. Adjustment of the “V” attachment.—The V attachment, fitted to the saddle as issued, admits of limited adjustment to suit the conformation of the horse.

The front straps of the V attachment, Marks II and III, should not be buckled and unbuckled daily when girthing, nor utilised for shortening or lengthening the girth.

The normal position of the attachment is with the buckle in the centre hole of the three—6½ inches from the rivet—this position will suit a very large number of horses; the upper and lower holes are provided for the adjustment; additional holes are not to be punched.

On animals with straight shoulders that carry the saddle too far forward, the strap should be buckled in the lower hole.

On animals that have deep chests and sloping shoulders, and are thick in front of the saddle, the front strap should be worn long.

But in no case is it to be worn as a true V, i.e., the front and rear straps of equal length, which would depress the hinder part of the saddle, and cause other difficulties.

Care should be taken in all cases to buckle the “near” and “off” straps in corresponding holes.

31. Bridling.

1. Care should be taken to fit each horse with a bit of the correct size. A narrow bit pinches the horse’s lips, and a wide bit moves from side to side and bruises them.

The bit should be fitted so that the mouthpiece is 1 inch above the lower tusk of a horse, and 2 inches above the corner tooth of a mare.

This can only be laid down as a general rule, as much depends on the shape and sensitiveness of the horse’s mouth and on his temper.

2. Figs. and represent bits, with and without a port, with a section of the horse’s tongue and lower jaw.

The tongue is less sensitive than the bars of the mouth. A straight mouthpiece, Fig. 1, rests on the tongue and bars of the mouth. When the reins are pulled the tongue is able to take the greater part of the pressure. A mouthpiece with a port, Fig. 2, rests chiefly on the bars. When the reins are pulled the tongue slips into the port and is unable to relieve the bars of the greater part of the pressure. A bit with a straight mouthpiece is therefore less severe than one with a port.

Fig. 1.

Fig. 2.

3. The curb should be laid in the chin-groove and be so adjusted that when the bit is pulled back to its greatest extent the angle which the bit forms with the mouth should never exceed 45° even with the lightest-mouthed horse, and should vary between that and 30° according to the degree of hardness of the mouth. The curb should be fixed permanently on to the off curb-hook. The chain should be adjusted by twisting it to the right, putting the last link on to the near curb-hook, and then taking up as many more links as may be necessary. It should admit two fingers easily between it and the jawbone.

4. The headstall should be parallel to and behind the cheek-bone.

5. The noseband should be the breadth of two fingers below the cheek-bone and should admit two fingers between it and the nose.

6. The throat lash should fit loosely, being only sufficiently tight to prevent the headstall slipping over the horse’s ears.

7. The reins should be of such a length that when held by the middle, in the full of the left hand, with a light feeling of the horse’s mouth, they will touch the rider’s waist.

32. Miscellaneous details.

1. The head rope is put on as follows:—The point of the rope is passed through the lower ring of the jowl piece from the near to the off side, and then through its own ring. It is next passed over the horse’s neck from the off to the near side, and fastened off by doubling back the end, and laying the loop so formed on the standing end of the rope 6 inches from the ring. The free end is then wound round the three returns, passed through the loop, and the loop is hauled taut to it. The number of times the free end is wound round the returns will vary according to the length of the horse’s forehand.

Special for mountain artillery ponies.—Buckle the strap at the end of the rope, buckle down, to the rear D of the head collar: pass the free end from off to near side over the animal’s neck, fasten off by doubling a piece of the rope long enough to make five complete turns, and lay this loop on the standing end of the rope 6 inches from the brass ring; the free end is now wound five times completely round the three returns, and passed down through the loop which is hauled taut to it. The bight of the rope is fastened off the front D on the saddle by a leather tie.

2. The wallets (officers only) are to be placed on the pommel of the saddle with the hollowed side of the connecting piece to the front. The wallet strap is to be passed from the rear through the rearmost staple on the saddle, then through the rear keeper of the wallet, next through the front staple of the saddle, and finally through the front keeper of the wallet and buckled, the point of the strap pointing to the rear, the buckles being in line with the front edge of the wallet.

3. The sword frog is attached to the rear arch of the saddle on the near side, the girth being passed through the steadying strap.

4. The breast-piece should hang horizontally from the supporting straps, the bottom of it about 1 inch above the point of the shoulder, and should admit the breadth of the hand between it and the horse’s chest.

5. The breastplate should be so fitted that the upper edge of the rosette or leather is the breadth of three fingers above the sharp breast bone, and it should admit the breadth of the hand between it and the flat of the shoulder.

6. The martingale should be used only for exceptional horses. It may be either running or standing, according to which suits the horse the better.

It should be of such a length that it will not interfere with the horse until he gets his head above the proper position. If it is shorter than this it will tend to make him set his head and neck, and lean against it.

If a running martingale is used on reins other than those sewn to the bit or bridoon they should be fitted with “stops” to prevent the rings of the martingale getting caught by the buckles or studs, which fasten the reins to the bit or bridoon.

Running martingales should, as a rule, be put on the bit reins and sufficiently loose to have no bearing on the reins till the horse attempts to raise his head.

The standing martingale should, as a rule, be fastened to the noseband, but under exceptional circumstances it may be fastened to the bridoon or cheek of the portmouth bit.

Riding.

33. General instructions.

1. The instructions should be divided into three periods, and the pupil should be gradually advanced from one to the other.

The proper sequence of instruction is a matter of extreme importance, in order to obtain early and satisfactory results and to avoid spoiling horses.

2. The first period should be devoted to the attainment of a firm seat independent of the reins, and its natural consequence—suppleness of the body from the hips upwards. Individual instruction should be the rule during this period.

It is important to give the recruit confidence from the first, and to start with he should be given a quiet, well-trained horse. He should be allowed a saddle and stirrups for the first few days, after which some of his work each day should be without stirrups. The greater part of the instruction at this stage should be without reins. To save the horse’s mouth the pupil should only be allowed to hold his reins when he is riding with stirrups.

As soon as the recruit begins to be at home in the saddle and can rise in his stirrups, cantering and jumping should commence.

3. Before he enters the second period the recruit should be able to control his horse in straightforward movements and simple turns in the school or manège and be able to ride over low jumps at all paces without reins. From now onwards a considerable portion of the work should be outside the riding school.

This second period should be devoted to teaching what are commonly called the “aids,” i.e., the use of the hand and lower part of the leg and the distribution of the rider’s weight to indicate the rider’s will to his horse. (See Sec. 43.)

The instructor should aim at cultivating freedom and elasticity in the shoulders, arm, and wrists. Stiff shoulder-action cramps the play of the elbow-joints and wrists and makes good hands impossible.

The recruit should be instructed to keep the knee firm to the saddle when the lower part of the leg is used.

4. In the third period more advanced instruction in horsemanship is given. This should commence when the pupil has attained to suppleness of the body and the limbs, and consists in combining the play of both so that the rider may learn to move in unison with his horse.

Exaggerated movement of any sort must be discouraged, and the necessity of quietness and of sitting still emphasized. The best horsemen attain their ends with the minimum of exertion to themselves and to their horses.

During this period the horse artillery recruit should be taught to use his sword, and mounted men should receive instruction in riding with the rifle.

5. After the first few lessons the recruit’s horse should be constantly changed, and he should not be passed in riding until the average animal goes pleasantly with him at any pace.

Concurrently with his instruction in riding the recruit should be taught the principles of saddling and bitting, also the points of the horse and other elementary but useful knowledge connected with horses and stables.

6. By following out the methods described an average man, with careful individual instruction, should be able to ride at a trot and canter and over small jumps without reins after about 30 continuous lessons. He should be fit for dismissal in about 60 lessons.

34. Hints to instructors.

1. It is necessary that an instructor should himself be a practical horseman.

2. Recruits should be carefully taught from the first how to put on and fit their saddles and bridles. The ill effects resulting from bad fitting saddlery should be explained to them.

Examples of horses badly saddled and bridled should be shown to the men, and they should be made to point out what is wrong, and how the mistake should be put right, e.g., if the front tab of the V-shaped girth attachment is not buckled tightly up, the saddle will slip forward. They should also be taught clearly how the bit acts on the bars of the mouth, and how it should be fitted.

3. An instructor should be mounted, and in addition to a short verbal description, should give a practical illustration of what he requires. A recruit who may have great difficulty in learning his work by mere verbal instruction will quickly do so by copying an expert horseman.

4. A feature of all instructional work should be its quietness; an instructor should never shout and must always keep his temper. He must endeavour from the first to create a spirit of emulation amongst his pupils, and avoid keeping the more forward amongst them back for the sake of the others.

5. An instructor should aim at making his lesson progressive, and as interesting as possible. In order to give recruits confidence, they may be allowed occasionally to amuse themselves in the riding school with their horses, by doing anything they like without interference from the instructor, beyond his taking care that the horses are not ill-treated.

When teaching men in the open they should be encouraged to ride about independently, so as to get into the habit of making their horses go where they like and do what they wish. As the men improve, the instructor should accustom them to riding under as varied conditions as possible.

6. The first portion of the early training can be pushed on much more quickly in a riding school than in the open. The horses are under better control, the nervousness natural to beginners and usually felt by recruits is greatly lessened, for they know that the horse cannot run away, and there is nothing to distract the attention of men or horses. The more advanced training must, however, always be carried out in the open, in order that the pupil may learn real control over his horse and improve his hands.

7. The first object of the instructor is to give his pupils confidence, to teach them balance, the knee and thigh grip, and to sit well down in the saddle. The lungeing whip should not be allowed inside the school, it does more harm than good, frightens the other horses and upsets the men; if necessary, the recruit should be allowed to carry a stick or whip. No riding school lesson should exceed one hour.

8. Falls should be avoided: they tend to spoil the beginner’s nerve and retard his progress. To this end the recruit’s stirrups should be connected in the initial stages by a strap passing under the horse’s belly, of such a length that the man’s knees are not drawn away from the saddle. The strap saves falls, because it prevents the rider’s legs from flying out far in any direction and the confidence it engenders enables him to acquire balance more quickly. It should not be used when jumping obstacles over 2 feet high.

9. More horses are spoilt from being “jobbed” in the mouth than from any other cause; particularly when jumping; hence the immense importance of teaching the men from the first to leave their horses’ heads alone except for the purpose of control and for applying particular aids.

Men may, with advantage, be taught to ride with their reins fully long.

10. An instructor should be careful not to keep horses reining back, passaging, or bending for more than a few minutes at a time. Generally speaking, half the length of the school is sufficient for one of these exercises.

11. In order to teach a man to have a strong seat, with the knee firmly in the saddle, and at the same time to keep his feet pressed down home in the stirrups with the leathers practically taut, he should frequently be practised in standing up in his stirrups. At first this should be done with the horse standing still, the man resting his hand on the horse’s neck, if necessary, to assist his balance. Afterwards at the walk, trot and canter.

35. Preliminary training.

1. Before a recruit is allowed to mount a horse his riding muscles should, if possible, have been strengthened on a wooden horse, either under a riding instructor or under a gymnastic instructor who is a good horseman. At the same time he should be taught the correct seat. (See Sec. 38 and Fig. 4.)

2. The following are good exercises:—

• i. Rising from the knee with stirrups.
• ii. Rising from the knee without stirrups.
• iii. Touching the foot with the hand on each side, with
• and without stirrups.
• iv. Leaning forwards and backwards in the saddle, with
• and without stirrups.
• v. Swinging the lower part of the leg, with a circular
• motion to the rear, and towards the horse’s side.
• vi. Without stirrups and with arms folded, making the
• horse rock by swinging the body backwards and
• forwards, maintaining a firm grip with the thighs.

iii and iv should be practised on the move when riding proper begins. Before commencing, the pupil must be placed well down in the saddle, and he must be taught to keep his knees firm to the flap and not to cling with the lower part of the leg.

3. These exercises on the wooden horse may be usefully employed during subsequent training, but should not immediately precede or follow a riding lesson. Exercising tired muscles is not only useless, but harmful.

36. First lessons to the recruit.

1. Squads should not exceed 8 in number, and should parade in line, leading their horses.

“Stand to your horses.”—The man stands at attention on the near side of the horse, toes in line with the horse’s fore feet; the reins, taken over the horse’s head, are held in the palm of the right hand near the ring of the bit, little finger between the reins, back of the hand up; the right arm bent, the hand as high as the shoulder; the end of the reins in the left hand, which hangs down by his side without constraint. This is the position of attention when the man is leading his horse.

When the horse is about to be ridden, the position of attention will be the same as above, except that the reins will not be taken over the horse’s head and will be held by the right hand only near the bit.

“Stand at ease.”—The right hand slides down the near rein to the full extent of the arm, the end of the reins being retained in the left hand. The position of the man’s legs and feet are the same as at dismounted drill.

Note.—If the reins have not been taken over the horse’s head, they will be held in the right hand only, the left arm hanging by the man’s side without constraint.

“In front of your horses.”—Each man being at attention will take a full pace forward with the right foot, turn to the right-about on the ball of it, and take one rein in each hand near the rings of the bit, still holding the end of them in the left hand if the reins are over the horse’s head; hands and elbows to be as high as the shoulders.

This is the position in which a man should stand when showing a horse at the halt.

“Stand to your horses.”—Each man will take a full step forward to the horse’s near side with the right foot, and turn left-about on the ball of it.

“Quick march.”—Each man will move off holding the reins as above.

“Single files right (or left)” “Quick march.”—Each man will move off in succession, one horse-length from the file in front of him.

2. A man when leading a horse through a narrow gate or doorway should walk slowly backwards, taking care that the horse’s hips clear the uprights. The head collar should be held in both hands, one on either side of the horse’s head, which, however, should be sufficiently free for the horse to see where he is going.

When a soldier, leading a horse, passes an officer he will look towards him.

3. How to pick up a horse’s foot.—The recruit should be taught the right way to pick up a horse’s foot. To do this he should face the rear and run his hand lightly down the leg from the shoulder or quarter along the back of the knee or hock before attempting to lift the foot from the ground.

4. How to run a horse in hand.—The reins should be held as described above in “Stand to your horses” and the horse led off. As soon as he breaks into a steady trot the man should leave go the reins with the hand nearest the horse, and only hold the end of the reins in his outer hand. In turning a horse about when in hand, the man should always move round the horse and not swing the horse round himself. In leading a horse past an officer for inspection, the man should place himself on the side nearest the officer.

37. Mounting and dismounting.

1. Without stirrups.—The reins hanging evenly on his neck, the command will be given:—

“Prepare to mount.”—Turn to the right and close 6 inches to the right. Take the reins in the left hand properly separated as for riding (see Sec. 39), and place the left hand on the front of the saddle. The reins should be of such a length that the horse’s mouth is not interfered with while mounting. The right hand will grip the back of the saddle.

“Mount.”—Spring up, straightening the arms to assist, pass the right leg over the horse and drop gently into the saddle. When mounting without a saddle the left hand will be placed in front of the horse’s withers, and the right arm on his loins, forearm well to the off side, fingers closed.

“Prepare to dismount.”—Place both hands, with a rein or reins in each, on the front of the saddle, and rise from the horse’s back by straightening the arms. Without saddles, both hands will be placed on the horse’s withers.

“Dismount.—Vault lightly to the ground and assume the position of ”Stand to your horses.”

Mounting and dismounting should also be practised on the offside.

2. With stirrups.—“Prepare to mount.”—Turn to the right about. Take the reins in the left hand properly separated as for riding (see Sec. 39) and with a light and equal feeling on the horse’s mouth. Place the left hand on the horse’s withers, and grasp his mane, or the front of the saddle if he has no mane; then place the left foot in the stirrup, and the right hand on the back of the saddle.

“Mount.”—Spring quietly into the saddle, place the right foot in the stirrup without looking down and assume the position of attention (see Sec.40).

Mounting on the offside will be taught in the same manner, and recruits should be made to practise it regularly.

“Prepare to dismount.”—Shorten the reins (see Sec. 39) and grasp the mane with the left hand, place the right hand on the front part of the saddle and take the right foot out of the stirrup.

“Dismount.”—Carry the right leg over and lower the body gently to the ground; place the left foot in line with the horse’s fore feet, turn to the left and come to the position of “Stand to your horses.”

3. Whenever the men are dismounted and have been allowed to Stand easy from the position of Stand at ease, they will be recalled to attention by the command “Stand to your horses.”

4. For instructional purposes the order for mounting and dismounting is given by two words of command, e.g.:—

“Prepare to mount.”—“Mount”; “Prepare to dismount.”—“Dismount”; but for trained men there is only one word of command in each case, i.e., “Mount” or “Dismount.”

38. The seat.

1. The recruit must be made to sit evenly on his seat, well down in the saddle, and not on his fork; the flat of the thigh and the inside of the knee pressed against the saddle, but not so tightly that the man rides on his thighs, as the weight of the body should rest principally on the seat. Below the knee the leg should hang free, and in the early stages much attention need not be paid to the position of the body, though from the first the recruit should be taught to get his seat well under him.

2. Great care should be taken to fit the stirrups to the right length to suit the build of the rider. The man should be made to place himself in the saddle with his knees at the height which appears to suit his thigh. The stirrups should then be adjusted so that the bars are in line with the soles of his boots. If a man standing in his stirrups can just clear the pommel with his fork the stirrups are about the right length.

The end of the stirrup leather should be passed under both returns and then under the surcingle. It should not be passed downwards through the buckle.

A man with a short thick leg, however, requires his stirrups shorter in proportion than a man of equal height but with a flat thigh and thin leg. The stirrups are intended to be an aid and convenience to the rider; if they are too long he will lose his seat by leaning forward in his endeavour to retain them; if they are too short, the seat becomes cramped and the rider is prevented from using the lower part of the leg correctly.

In ceremonial work the stirrups should be kept on the ball of the foot, but at other times the feet may be pushed right home.

39. How to hold the reins.

1. The recruit should next be taught how to hold the reins as described below. In the early stages he should only be allowed a snaffle or single rein attached to the cheek of the universal bit, and no curb, and should ride with the reins in both hands. The instructor should impress upon him the importance of not hanging on by the reins and explain that if he does so he will not make progress, but by injuring his horse’s mouth will make him difficult to ride.

2. The hands should be low and close in front of the body, thumbs uppermost, back of the hands to the front. Wrists should be rounded and supple and the movements of the horse should be followed by means of the play of the shoulders, elbows (which should be kept close to the body), and wrists.

3. Reins in left hand. i. Bridoon or check reins only.—Take the two reins in the left hand, the right rein between first and second fingers, the left rein outside the fourth finger, slack passed across the palm and secured between the thumb and first finger.

ii. All four reins.—Place the right bit rein between the second and third fingers, and the left bit rein between the third and fourth fingers. The right bridoon rein between the first and second fingers, and the left bridoon rein outside the fourth finger, the slack of all four reins thrown back over the first finger and secured by the thumb.

At riding drill drivers when holding the reins in the left hand should place the right hand on the thigh, as described in Sec. 55.

4. Reins in both hands.—In the first place, whether using single or double reins, take them in the left hand as described above, then take up the right rein or reins in the right hand by placing it in front of the left, pulling sufficient of the slack forward through the left hand to obtain an even bearing on the mouth with both hands held low, just in front of the body and close to the horse’s withers.

In the case of single reins only, the right rein should be held between the third and fourth fingers; with double reins, the two right reins should be separated by the third finger. In each case the right hand should hold only the right rein or reins, the slack of these being secured between the right thumb and forefinger and passing thence into the left hand which holds both the left and right reins. (See Fig. 3.)

5. To lengthen the reins.—Allow sufficient rein to slip gently through the fingers.

To shorten the reins.—Keep the reins in the left hand but drop the slack from between the thumb and forefinger, and take hold of this in the right hand behind the left, slide the left hand forward until the desired length is obtained. Then as before secure the slack, and if riding with both hands on the reins, take up the right rein or reins again in the right hand.

6. The recruit should be well grounded in the proper manner of holding the reins, and frequently practised in changing them quickly from one hand to both and vice versâ, also in shortening and lengthening them at all paces. The importance of keeping the reins supple and unpolished should be impressed on him.

7. Normally the reins should be held in the left hand only, bit reins inside except in the case of beginners, and when riding young or awkward horses, when both hands should often be used. Occasionally the left hand may be required to be free, as when leading another horse, in which case the reins of the ridden horse can be held in the right hand.

40. Position in the saddle at attention.

1. The correct position of the rider at attention is shown in Fig. 4. The head and body should be erect and square to the front; upper arm hanging perpendicular; forearm nearly horizontal; thighs flat on the saddle; legs from the knee down nearly vertical; knees turned inwards so as to enable the toes to point towards the front; the heels should be sunk lower than the toes and the feet pressed down into the stirrups (see Fig. 4).

2. On the command “Sit at ease” the reins should be relaxed by dropping the left hand on the front of the saddle. The right hand should rest on the left, back up.

41. First movements on horseback.

1. The recruit should now be shown how to start his horse off at a walk from the halt, i.e., he should be made to ease the reins slightly, though still keeping a light feeling on the horse’s mouth, and press him forward with the legs from the knees downwards. He should be prevented from jogging his horse in the ribs with his heels and from advancing his hands to slacken the reins. At the same time he should be taught how to halt without jerking his horse’s mouth.

The trot should be slow and for short periods and there should be no cantering for the first few lessons.

2. How to rise in the stirrups.—The loins must be perfectly lissom, so that the seat may be easy and comfortable; the back should not be hollowed, but the upper part of the body should be inclined a little forward.

The recruit should not try, by rising, to follow or to anticipate the movements of the horse, but should let himself be raised.

His knees (and ankle-joints if riding with the stirrup on the ball of the foot) will sustain his movement and will allow him to descend softly into the saddle. It is advisable to let the recruit commence this at a walk.

3. At the trot without stirrups the recruit should allow his body to be thrown up at each step, and fall on his seat.

In cantering, the knees, the inside of the thighs and the seat itself must remain close to the saddle, the whole body pliant and accompanying the movement of the horse, so that with each stride the rider feels a forward thrust through his seat from the animal’s back.

4. A few turns and circles may now be introduced, and in executing them the recruit should be told how to use the weight of his body. He should be instructed, whilst preserving the grip of his knees and thighs, to incline his weight from the hips slightly backwards and to the side to which he is turning.

5. As soon as he has gained some confidence, the recruit should ride without reins; he should then be taught to jump, at first over small obstacles, such as the bar lying on the ground. (See Sec. 42.)

The recruit should not be allowed to cling with the back of the calf; it should be explained to him that the principal use of the lower part of the leg will be taught to him later.

6. Much of the early training should be without reins, the arms being folded in front of the body, never behind, as the latter tends to throw the upper part of the body forward.

42. Teaching the recruit
how to ride his horse
over a fence.

1. Jumping, when carried out with discretion, is an excellent training for men and horses. Constant practice throughout the recruit’s training will enable the man to acquire, and afterwards to maintain, a firm seat, whilst at the same time the muscles of the horse’s back and thighs are developed and strengthened.

2. Riding over the bar laid on the ground makes a good beginning, the men trotting round the school with suitable distances between horses and jumping it in turn. This has the advantage of leading both men and horses to think that they are doing nothing out of the common, and results in an orderly and quiet procedure.

The recruit should at first be allowed to hold the end of the rein in the flat of the hand to give him confidence, but should be encouraged as soon as possible to drop the reins altogether. The arms should be folded across the chest. Stirrups should be allowed until the instructor considers it advisable for the beginner to jump without them.

In the first jumping lessons the recruits may be allowed to hold the mane, head rope, or front of the saddle in one hand and the reins loosely in the other. With this assistance they will be found to get confidence, attain their proper balance in a short time and be in a position to control their horses without jerking their mouths.

3. As the horse takes off, the pupil should be instructed to lean forward and to tighten his leg-grip; if he is successful in this his body will soon swing in harmony with the horse. The movements of the body from the hips upwards when riding over a jump vary so much with different horses and different fences, that it is impossible to lay down any rule. It is a matter of the rider balancing his body assisted by a leg-grip. The horse should be eased up gently after a jump, on no account should his pace suddenly be checked.

When the initial stage is passed frequent change of horses expedites progress.

4. The pupil should be gradually trained to handle the reins when jumping, and the greatest care must be exercised to avoid ill-treatment of the horse’s mouth during the process. If the shoulder-joints are given free play when the horse requires more rein, all jerky movements of the arms and wrists will be avoided as the hands go forward. Reins must be held long, and the man taught to keep his hands low and allow them to come freely forward as the horse is on the downward plane. When riding with the reins in one hand, the left shoulder can be brought forward as the horse is descending.

5. Jumping low obstacles is very little exertion to the horse, and the more the recruit has of it the sooner he will be ready to enter the third period of instruction. Before he enters this stage he should sit his horse with ease, both with and without reins, and, when jumping, should be able to keep a light feeling on the horse’s mouth without in any way interfering with it.

6. The pupil should then be given horses that require “riding” at their fences, and be taught to handle them with resolution. A combination of the qualities of determination and patience are invaluable in a horseman, and should be developed and encouraged at this stage of the training.

The method of dealing with refusers is given in Sec. 81.

43. The aids.

1. General principles.—The “aids” are the signals used by the rider to assist him in directing his horse. These signals are made by means of the reins, legs, spurs, shifting the weight of the body, whip, and voice. For instance, the reins can be used to bend the neck, to raise, lower, or turn the head to any one side; and to make the horse decrease his speed, halt, or rein back.

The necessity of impressing on all recruits the importance of preserving the sensitiveness of the horse’s mouth cannot be over-rated.

The pressure of both legs is an indication to the horse to go forward, and should normally be applied just behind the girth; the leg should only be drawn back when the horse fails to respond to ordinary pressure. The pressure of the leg drawn back on one side is employed to make the hind quarters turn towards the opposite side, or to prevent them from turning towards the side on which the pressure is applied.

When it is necessary to use the spur it should be applied as described in Sec. 45. If when the horse is on the move the weight of the body is shifted, say to the right, the horse will be inclined to put out a foot on that side, in order to equalize the distribution of weight on its limbs. The hind quarters and forehand are respectively lightened by the rider’s body being brought forward and back, or by lowering or raising the horse’s head. The movement of the body as an “aid” should be slight, except in the case of a man riding a heavy horse, when more movement may often be necessary, but it should not lead to interference with the horse’s mouth.

The indications of the whip are closely akin to those of the leg and spur.

2. To walk or trot.—Without drawing them back, close both legs to the horse according to his temperament, and slightly ease both reins by a slight turn of the wrist or wrists. As soon as the horse advances at the desired pace relax the pressure of the legs and feel the reins again as before.

3. To halt.—Close both legs and feel both reins, at the same time bring the weight of the body slightly back. As soon as the horse halts relax the pressure of the legs.

4. To turn to the right on the haunches.⁠—Close both legs to the horse, using more pressure with the left leg drawn back to prevent his haunches from flying out to the left. At the same time feel the right side of the horse’s mouth, press the left rein against his neck, and lean the body slightly back and to the right.

To turn to the left on the haunche.s—Reverse the above.

5. To turn right about on the haunches.—The same as “right turn,” except that the rider should lean his body slightly back as well as to the right and as required apply more continued pressure on the right rein and firmer pressure with the drawn back left leg to compel the horse to turn on his haunches.

6. To collect the horse.—Make the horse bring his hindquarters well under him by a pressure of both legs, and induce him to flex his jaw and bring his nose slightly in by a light feeling of the bit rein. The pressure of the legs should precede any feeling of the reins. In this way the rider causes the horse to stand, walk, trot or canter, at attention.

7. To rein back.—Collect the horse as described in the previous paragraph, then feel the horse’s mouth as an indication for the horse to step backwards; the rider must never have a dead pull on the horse’s mouth, but when the horse has taken a step back, should ease the reins and then feel them again. The horse should be kept up to his bit by a pressure of both legs.

The trained horse should rein back collectedly, with head carried fairly high, and the body balanced on all four legs. He must move in a straight line, and must not be allowed to run back out of hand, but must make each movement in obedience to the properly applied indication of the rider. He should not be allowed to halt in an uncollected position.

8. To canter off fore and off hind leading.—Collect the horse, and by a strong pressure of the drawn back left leg make him strike off into a canter. Prevent him from turning his quarters to the right by a supporting pressure of the right leg as required. When cantering the horse’s body, head and neck should be kept in the direction in which he is moving. The horse should be collected and slightly bent in the direction of the leading leg. The horse must be made to canter true and united.

To canter near fore and near hind leading.—Reverse the above aids.

Methods of telling if a horse is cantering true:—

i. Look at his shoulders and fore feet: the shoulder and foot of the leading leg should be the most advanced.

ii. Look at his hind legs. The leading one of these should be on the same side as the leading fore leg. The horse’s croup will be slightly turned towards the side of the leading legs.

If “disunited,” the movement felt in the seat will be a jolting and twisting motion.

9. To change from off fore and off hind to near fore and near hind at the canter.—Close both legs to the horse and turn his head slightly to the right; prevent him from turning his body to the right by the pressure of the left leg, put the weight of the body slightly backwards and cause him to change by a stronger pressure of the drawn back right leg.

To change from near fore and near hind to off fore and off hind, at the canter.—Reverse the above aids.

10. To circle right at canter (from the halt, walk, or trot).—Apply the aids described for the “Canter, off fore and off hind leading,” and guide the horse round to the right.

To circle left at the canter.—Apply the aids described for the “Canter, near fore and near hind leading,” and guide the horse round to the left.

44. Bending.

1. Bending affords the advanced recruit a lesson in applying the “aids.” It is tiring exercise for the horse and should be practised with discretion.

In all bending work it is very important to get the horse to yield his jaw slightly as this conduces to lightness of hand.

As a rule, bending should be done on the move.

2. To bend a horse:—

i. On the snaffle.—If to the right, the rider should bend the horse by a gentle pressure on the right rein, at the same time giving to him slightly with the left rein but still retaining a gentle feeling on the left side of his mouth, and using the pressure of the legs as required; as soon as the horse bends to the hands cease bending and make much of him.

ii. On the bit.—The left hand, holding the reins, should have an equal feeling on all four reins. In bending to the right, place the third finger of the right hand between the two right reins and slightly feel the horse’s mouth, using the pressure of the legs as required; when the horse yields to the feeling by relaxing his jaw and bending as required, the hand should immediately yield to him.

The outer rein in bending should always retain a steady feeling to support the inner and to ensure the bend being made at the poll.

3. Bending lesson.—With beginners it is advisable that this should take place in the riding school or closed-in manège, but as the instruction progresses it should be practised outside.

The following movements should be practised (see Fig. 5):—

• Right shoulder in.
• Left shoulder in.
• Right pass }
• } To move across the school or to a flank.
• Left pass }

In all these movements the horse’s neck should be kept straight from the withers onwards to near the poll, his head itself being turned in the direction in which he is moving.

In the “shoulder in” the horse’s body should be inclined at about a half turn to the direction in which he is to move.

In “right” or “left pass” the horse’s body should be kept approximately at right angles to the direction in which he is moving, being inclined only just sufficiently in that direction to enable him to cross his legs.

These movements should all be made in the same way. Thus in “right shoulder in,” the left rein bends and leads the horse assisted by the right rein. The pressure of the rider’s right leg makes the horse cross his legs (except in the case of the half passage) whilst the rider’s left leg keeps him up to the hand and prevents him from swerving.

Horses should not be turned at the corners when in the position of “shoulder in.” On reaching a corner each horse should be walked on and again “shoulder in” after passing it.

To turn to the right when passaging to the right:—Stay the hind quarters with the right leg, lead the forehand round with the right rein, keep the left leg closed to prevent the quarters from flying out.

In working the shoulder in and passages, fore and hind feet should move on four distinct lines parallel to each other.

45. Spurs.

When the recruit has learned to preserve his proper seat and balance, and has a knowledge of the “aids” made with hands and legs, he may ride with spurs. In making use of them he must not open his thighs or move his body forward; the leg from the knee downwards only should move. Spurs with sharp rowels should only be allowed in exceptional circumstances.

The spurs should be used as little as possible, but when they are necessary the horse should be made to feel them; a continual light touch will either make the horse kick or cause him to become insensible to them; a jogging motion of the leg with the heel drawn up should, therefore, never be allowed.

46. Various exercises.

1. General principles.—The recruit’s course should proceed by degrees according to the progress made, and any or all of the following exercises may be found useful.

Others which suggest themselves to the instructor may be added. Each exercise or game, however, should have some definite object, and should be looked on merely as a means to an end.

2. To circle.—The ride being told off by fours, on the command “Nos. 1 Circle right (or left),” each No. 1 will ride his horse in a circle and fall-in the rear of his section of fours, Nos. 2, 3 and 4 doing the same when ordered by the instructor.

“Odd (or even) numbers circle right (or left).”—Each odd (or even) number will ride in a small circle and fall-in behind the even (or odd) number immediately behind him.

“Heads of fours circle right (or left).”—The leading man of each fours will ride in a circle followed by 2, 3, 4, and will continue in the circle until he gets the command “Go Large,” when he will cease circling and resume his original direction; or the rein may be changed by the word of command “ Heads of fours—change.”

3. Figure of 8.—For preliminary training in this movement the horse should be cantered quietly on a large circle or an oblong of about the same length as the school.

i. In the riding school or manège.

The change of rein and leading legs should be made as soon as the new circle is commenced at X. (See Fig. 6.)

ii. Outside.—First start off at a canter on a moderate sized circle on either rein. As soon as the horse is moving correctly and collectedly, turn inwards and describe a small circle still on the same rein, but about half the size of the first, when this is completed change the bend of the horse and the leading legs, and make a similar circle on the other rein, the two circles describing the figure of 8 within the original circle. (See Fig. 7.)

In changing the bend, jerking the horse’s head across from one side to the other should not be allowed; to compel the horse to change legs it is necessary to turn his head slightly outwards, the rider at the same time inclining his weight to the side to which he wishes the horse to change, and pressing with his outer leg; these movements should be made gently, and as soon as the horse has changed the leading legs, both fore and hind, his neck and head should be turned to look the way he is going.

4. The “Ladies Chain” is a useful practice for both man and horse. The leading file turns about, and rides a slightly zig-zag course through the remainder of the ride (who will be at three or four horse-lengths distance from each other), passing on their right and left hands alternately. When each man in succession has done this, the rear file, at increased pace, will zig-zag through the ride from the rear, and the remainder will follow in succession.

5. Practice in crossing a big V-shaped ditch, about 18 feet wide and 10 feet deep, i.e., large enough to compel the horses to go down one side and up the other, is a particularly valuable exercise, as no horse will face the opposite bank unless his head is left absolutely alone.

47. Paying compliments mounted
without arms.

When riding with both hands on the reins a soldier passing an officer turns his head and eyes in the direction of the officer without moving his hands. When holding the reins in one hand only he should drop the right hand to the full extent of the arm behind the right thigh, fingers half closed, back of the hand to the right, and turn his head in the direction of the officer.

48. Leading horses.

1. When riding one horse and leading another, the led horse should be on the near side, so that when meeting or being overtaken by traffic the man, by keeping on the left of the road, will have the ridden horse between the led horse and the traffic. The end of the led horse’s rein should be held in the left hand lying flat against the reins of the ride horse. If the led horse is fresh his rein should be held short, about 1 foot from his head. If he tries to break away, the man should circle the two horses to the left.

2. When leading two horses one should be on each side.

3. When leading three horses one should be on the near side and two on the off side. When leading two horses on the same side the reins of the outer horse should be passed between the jaw and the jowl piece of the head collar of the inner horse before being gathered up.

49. Securing horses.

1. Tying up a horse.—The chief considerations in securing a horse by the reins or head rope are to prevent him injuring himself (wire fences or spiked iron railings should obviously not be used) or breaking his reins by treading on them. The knot used should be capable of being quickly tied and untied and should not be likely to come unfastened through the horse fidgetting about.

Fig. 8 shows how a horse may be secured to a suitable branch by first placing the loop of the reins under and round it, and then doubling back the end of the branch and passing it through the reins. A piece of stick will answer the same purpose. The more the horse pulls the tighter the knot becomes.

2. Single horses can also be kept from straying as follows:—

i. By knee-haltering. One end of a rope is made fast above the knee by a clove hitch, fairly tight, with a keeper knot (half-hitch) round the rope to prevent it from coming loose. The other end is then carried back to the head collar and so secured that the horse cannot tread on it. The rope should be from 1 foot to 1 foot 6 inches from the knee to lower ring of jowl piece of head-collar.

Fig. 8.

Fig. 9.

ii. By securing the bit to the stirrup iron by means of the rein or a strap.

iii. By securing the bridoon rein to the girth on the near side; this is done by taking the bridoon reins over in the usual way and passing them under the girth from front to rear. They should then be drawn sufficiently tight to bend the horse’s head to the left and fastened by a single hitch, but without drawing the slip end through. (See Fig. 9.) When mounting in haste the rider can easily loosen the slip knot after mounting, and then pull the reins clear and pass them over the horse’s head.

3. Coupling horses.—Horses can be securely coupled by turning them head to tail and tying each with the bridoon rein to the off back-strap or arch of the saddle of the other, taking care that the reins, when tied, are not more than 6 to 8 inches long. (See Fig. 10.)

With three horses one can be tied to the head collar of either of the two horses so coupled. Four horses are secured by tying a horse to each of the two originally coupled. No horse should have more than 1 foot length of rein, and the best knot to be used is a slip knot round the rein itself.

4. Linking horses.—The head ropes are brought over the horses’ heads clear of the reins, without unfastening the coil or knot. Each man hands his rope to the man on his right, who passes it through the upper ring of his own horse’s head collar, and ties it with two half-hitches.

50. Riding with the sword.

1. To draw Pass the right hand smartly across the

swords. body, over the bridle arm, draw out the blade

the sword knot on the wrist, give it two turns

Draw— inward to secure it, and then grasp the handle

Swords. with the right arm close to the body, shoulders

One. square to the front.

Two. With an extended arm draw the sword

slowly from the scabbard, in the rear of the

left shoulder, and bring it smartly to the

“Recover,” that is, with the bar of the hilt in

line with the bottom of the chin, blade

perpendicular, edge to the left, elbow close to

the body.

Three. Lower the sword smartly to the “Carry,”

that is, with the top of the guard resting on

the top of the hand, blade perpendicular, edge

to the front, the first and second fingers

gripping the handle under the resistance

piece, the little finger behind the handle to

steady it, the wrist resting on the leg and the

pommel pressed against the side of it, upper

part of the arm close to the body, and the

elbow lightly touching the hip.

2. To slope Bring the lower part of the arm at right

swords. angles to the upper, hand in front of the

elbow, relax the grasp of the second and third

Slope— fingers, and allow the sword to fall lightly on

Swords. the shoulder, midway between the neck and

point of the shoulder, the top of the hilt resting

on the top of the hand, the little finger

still in rear of the hilt.

3. To sit at Keeping the sword at the slope, place the

ease. hands on the front part of the saddle, with the

Sit at Ease. right hand over the left.

4. To come

to position

of attention. Come smartly to the position of “Slope

swords.”

5. To Resume the grasp of the second and third

carry fingers and bring the blade perpendicular,

swords. the hilt resting on the thigh, as in the third

Carry— motion of drawing swords.

Swords.

6. To Carry the hilt smartly to the hollow of the

return left shoulder, blade perpendicular, edge to

swords. the left, elbow level with the shoulder; then

by a quick turn of the wrist drop the point

Return— in rear of the left shoulder slowly into the

Swords. scabbard, and resume the position at the end

of the first motion in “Draw swords,”

One. shoulders being kept square to the front

throughout this motion.

Two. Push the sword lightly into the scabbard,

release the hand from the sword knot by giving

it two turns outwards, the right hand remaining

across the body in line with the elbow,

fingers extended and close together, back of

the hand up.

Three. Drop the right hand smartly to the side.

7. When “Draw swords” is ordered at the walk, the men after drawing will remain at the “Carry” until ordered to “Slope”; but if “Draw swords” is ordered at the trot or gallop, the men will come to the “Slope” after drawing.

8. Proving.—In proving with a drawn sword, the sword is brought to the “Carry,” and again sloped on the command “As you were.”

9. Paying compliments with drawn sword.—An officer or soldier should “Carry” his sword and turn his head and eyes in the direction in which the compliment is to be paid.

10. Officers’ salute.—i. The officers’ salute in marching past commences ten yards from the reviewing officer, the sword being at the “Carry.”

First motion: Carry the sword direct to the right to the full extent of the arm, hand as high as the shoulder, back of the hand to the rear, blade perpendicular.

Second motion: Bring the sword by a circular motion to the “Recover,” keeping the elbow as high as the shoulder.

Third motion: Still keeping the elbow the height of the shoulder, bring the hilt to the right shoulder; during this motion let the finger nails come in line with the edge of the sword.

Fourth motion: Lower the sword to the front to the full extent of the arm, blade 3 inches below the knee, edge to the left, thumb extended in the direction of the point, hand directly under the shoulder. There should be no pause between these motions, but all should be combined in one graceful movement.

The head is slightly turned towards the reviewing officer whilst passing him.

After passing the reviewing officer ten yards, the sword is brought to the “Recover” carrying it well to the front, and to the “Carry” in two deliberate movements.

ii. The officers’ salute at the halt.—The sword being at the “Carry.” First motion: Bring the sword to the “Recover,” but with the thumb pointing upwards.

Second motion: As described in fourth motion of the salute when marching past.

Third motion: Bring the sword to the “Recover.”

Fourth motion: Bring the sword to the “Carry.”

51. Riding with the rifle.

1. To Take hold of the barrel of the rifle with the

mount. left hand, about 3 inches below the muzzle,

butt downwards, and prepare to mount, but

Prepare to with the rifle held in the left hand on the

Mount. off side of the horse.

Mount as usual, raise the rifle with the left

Mount. hand, seize it with the right hand in front of

the magazine, and place it in the bucket.

2. To

dismount.

Prepare to Seize the rifle with the right hand at the

Dismount. small of the butt.

Two. Draw the rifle out of the bucket far enough

to allow the hand to re-grasp it just in front

of the magazine; raise it so as to clear the

front of the saddle.

Three. Lower the butt under the bridle hand, and

hold the barrel with the left hand about

3 inches below the muzzle.

Four. Place the right hand in front of the saddle,

and quit the right stirrup. On the command

“Dismount,” dismount as usual, bringing the

rifle to the position of the “Order” in the left

hand, and hold the bridle with the right hand.

If required for dismounted service, as soon

as the horse is given up, the rifle is passed

from the left hand to the right.

3. The The rifle is held with the right hand in front

advance. of the magazine resting on the upper part of

the right thigh, thumb and fingers round the

rifle, muzzle pointing to the left front and

just clear of the horse’s near ear, trigger guard

to the front.

4. To draw

arms. Grasp the rifle at the small of the butt.

Draw—Arms.

Draw the rifle out of the bucket far enough

Two. to allow the hand to re-grasp it just in front

of the magazine.

Three. Retaining the same grasp, bring the rifle to

the “Advance.”

5. To carry From the “Advance.”—Without moving the

arms. right hand from its grasp of the rifle, place,

the butt on the upper part of the right thigh,

Carry. with the right eye, trigger guard to the left,

—Arms. back of the hand down, arm slightly bent,

elbow close to the side.

6. To return This is done in one motion as follows:—Raise

arms. the butt of the rifle and lower the muzzle

into the mouth of the bucket, pressing the

Return rifle well home with the right hand, trigger

—Arms. guard to the rear, taking care that the bolt lever

does not catch on the edge of the bucket.

52. Revolver shooting.

1. Revolver shooting is to be practised mounted by all ranks armed with that weapon.

2. At least 10 days’ preliminary instruction, including snapping, should be given immediately before firing the first year’s course, while 5 days’ practice will generally be advisable before subsequent courses. This preliminary instruction is important, in order to inculcate correct methods and to train the eye and muscles of the hand, wrist and arm.

3. The allowance of blank ammunition is required to accustom men to the shock of discharge and horses to the noise. Firing should be carried out first at a walk and finally at a canter.

4. When loaded the revolvers should be carried muzzle down and the finger away from the trigger.

5. To take aim the revolver should be raised on to the mark, keeping the wrist stiff with the forearm, wrist and barrel in the same vertical plane, or it may be brought direct into the alignment. The arm may be kept straight or slightly bent.

Mounted men should learn to shoot, without taking aim along the sights, at the centre of the body of the target. With a little practice they should learn to keep their eyes on the object and, as it were, “throw the bullet” at it.

6. Practice with ball ammunition should be divided into two parts, dismounted and mounted. The latter should not be carried out until a man thoroughly understands the handling of the weapon.

Driving.

53. General principles.

1. All officers, non-commissioned officers, and drivers must possess a thorough knowledge of the principles of driving and of fitting harness.

2. Even and steady draught is a matter of paramount importance; the respective weights behind teams are calculated on the assumption that every horse will do his fair share of work; this is impossible unless the driving is of a high order. If the driving is not good, neither quick manœuvre, long marches, nor efficient transport serviceman be assured.

3. When draught is even and steady every trace in the team is taut, and the horses’ heads are facing straight to the front. If, for example, an off horse’s head is pulled inwards, his draught power is reduced and he is liable to become collar galled.

4. The lead driver is responsible for direction, distance, and pace; it is the duty of the centre and wheel drivers to keep the traces taut and cover him.

5. Temperament should be the first consideration in teaming horses. A slug should therefore, if possible, not be included in a team of very willing horses.

6. The position of the horses should frequently be changed; a hand horse, for example, loses his back muscles if he is never ridden, and is also apt to acquire the habit of leaning on the off side of the bit.

54. Fitting harness.

1. The saddle, saddle blanket, girth, surcingle, bit, curb, chain, head rope, nose band, and throat lash will be fitted as for the riding horse. (See Secs. 30-32.)

2. The riding rein⁠ should be fitted of such a length that the driver has complete control over his horse.

In the leading rein the short piece on the near side should be carefully fitted so that the bearing of the bit in the horse’s mouth may be even when the rein is held in the driver’s hand.

The side rein, if required, should be buckled to the cheek of the bit of the horse, the end being buckled to the saddle.

4. The breast collar should hang horizontally from the padded neck straps, the lower edge about one inch above the point of the shoulder. The higher it is in reason the less chance there is of the horse galling.

5. The pole bar supporting straps should be sufficiently short to carry the bar the width of a hand above the sharp breast bone; if lower, the bar will gall the horse’s chest. Care must be taken to have the bar horizontal.

6. The loin straps should be so fitted that the traces shall be in a straight line when the horse is in draught.

7. The length of the traces must depend on the size of the horses. The distance between horses in a team should not be less than one yard from nose to tail, but the traces of each pair of horses must be the same length.

8. The breeching should be fitted about 16 inches below the upper part of the dock; it is kept horizontal by the long loin straps. When put back in the breeching the horse should be at least a foot from the footboard.

9. Pole chains should be so fitted that when wheel horses are standing up to their collars there is no pull on the chains. By the use of a tug neck piece in connection with the pole bar supporting straps, horses with wheel harness can be harnessed to G.S. wagons whether the latter are fitted with pole chains or pole straps.

10. The kicking strap should be so fitted as to give the play of a hand’s breadth between it and the horse’s croup when he is standing in his collar.

55. Position of a driver standing
to his horses and mounted.

1. The driver stands to his horses on the near side of his riding horse in line with the fore feet, holding the reins of both horses (the leading rein passing over the riding horse’s neck) in his right hand, right arm extended and level with his shoulder; left arm hanging down by his side; whip, stock upwards, in his legging.

2. On the command “Prepare to mount,” the driver turns to his right about, places the leading rein over the riding rein in the palm of his left hand, puts his left foot in the stirrup, and takes hold of the front of the saddle with his left hand and the back of the saddle with his right; if he cannot reach the back of the saddle, he must take hold of the flap.

With the universal reins, the riding horse’s rein is held in the full of the hand, the end hanging down between the first finger and thumb, little finger dividing the reins. The leading rein is held in the full of the hand, the end hanging down from the opposite side of the hand to that of the ride horse’s reins.

At “Mount” he raises himself in the stirrup, passes his right leg over the horse and drops quietly into his saddle. He then adjusts his reins so that he has an even feeling on both horses’ mouths, takes the whip out of his legging with his right hand, which he passes through the loop at the end of the stock and places on his right thigh back up, grasping stock and thong close together, with his elbow a few inches from his body.

This is the position of attention, mounted.

3. On the command “Sit at Ease,” both hands are placed on the pommel of the saddle, the right hand holding stock and thong of whip over the left.

4. On the command “Prepare to Dismount” the driver places the whip in his legging.

At “Dismount.”—If the driver cannot reach the ground with his right foot while the left is still in the stirrup, he takes both feet out of the stirrups, and the body, at first supported by both hands, is gently lowered to the ground. He then comes to the position of standing to his horses.

5. On the command “Stand at Ease,” keeping both legs straight, he carries the left foot about one foot-length to the left, and slides the right hand (retaining hold of the leading rein) down the riding rein of the riding horse as far as it will go; his left hand hanging down the thigh.

“Stand Easy.”—He fastens the leading rein to the riding rein by means of a thumb knot.

56. Use of the whip.

1. The whip is chiefly used to control the off horse: i.e., to start him, to keep him in the collar, and to guide him when turning. It should be applied lightly on to the off side of the neck just in front of the withers, fingers closed on stock and thong.

2. The driver also salutes with his whip when at a walk, in the following manner:—He brings it to the recover as with a sword, passes it over the withers of the off horse, right arm extended, but with the elbow raised and slightly bent, hand in a line with the waist, back of the hand up and inclined to the front, fingers firmly closed on the stock and thong. The driver should hold his body erect with the shoulders square to the front, and look the officer full in the face. When the salute is finished, the whip is brought to the recover and then down to the position of attention. The salute commences four paces from the officer, and finishes four paces beyond him. A driver when halted, or at the trot, salutes by coming to attention and looking the officer full in the face.

3. On rare occasions the whip may be used to punish a horse, when the thong should be applied once on the shoulder. This procedure is seldom justified, and is liable to upset the other five horses in the team.

At all other times the thong should be held close against the stock with the end of the lash hanging down.

57. Driving without vehicles.

1. Before recruits are allowed to drive horses in draught they should be practised in manœuvring the team alone. The centre and wheel drivers thus learn in the initial stages to keep the traces taut, and all likelihood of either spoiling or overtiring horses is avoided.

2. The riding school is well suited for this training; three teams can be worked together in an ordinary sized building, and they are more under the instructor’s eye than in the open.

3. The positions of the drivers in the teams should frequently be changed.

58. Hooking in and unhooking.

1. Hooking in and unhooking should be done as in action, that is in complete teams with drivers mounted, and by the same men who perform the duty in action. The supporting bars for the poles are brought up from the footboards of the carriages and attached to the neck pieces of the wheelers. If possible the team should come up on the left of the carriage, as it is easier for the wheel driver to get his horses into position from the near than from the off side.

2. Traces should be fastened and unfastened at the swingle-trees. The two highest available numbers at the gun and wagon respectively hook in and unhook the teams of their own carriage. All numbers work on their own side.

3. The inside traces of the centre horses pass over the supporting bar to prevent the pole tipping up. When hooking in, the outside trace of each horse is attached before the inside one. In unhooking, each man unfastens what he fastened when hooking in, commencing where he left off.

4. In the case of heavy artillery, should additional horses (over the normal team of eight) be required, they should be attached to the outriggers on the limber and not hooked in front of the team, as the traces are not designed to stand the extra strain.

5. Hooking in.—At “Hook in” the higher number holds up the pole near the footboard, and the lower number goes round by the head of the off wheeler, and as the wheel driver backs his horses guides the ring of the supporting bar on to the pole. As soon as the ring is on the pole the two gunners fasten the wheel traces (see paras. and ).

Drivers only.—The centre driver dismounts, and having secured his leading rein to his driving rein, raises the pole at the point and guides it into the ring on the pole bar. He then fastens the wheel traces (see para. 3).

6. Unhooking.—The two gunners unhook the wheel traces (see paras. and ), and as soon as the attachments are released, the wheel driver gives the word “Drive on.” The team drives on, allowing the pole to fall to the ground.

Drivers only.—The centre driver dismounts and unhooks the wheel traces.

7. In exceptional circumstances the team can be unhooked in the following manner. The wheel driver releases the trace attachments of both wheel horses at the breast-collars, and the team drives on, allowing the pole to fall to the ground. The breechings and traces should be replaced on the horses as soon as possible.

59. Traces.

1. When not in draught, the traces of lead and centre horses are crossed in rear of the saddle and the ends passed forward under the neck strap of the breast collar. In the case of spare horses the ends of the traces are brought forward and fastened by the quick release attachment to the rings on the breast collars, the short traces being carried on the footboards of the vehicles.

In the case of wheel horses the traces are passed through the trace bearers, then turned up under the loin straps and fastened back to the bearers by their quick release attachment.

60. Moving off.

1. On the command “March” the drivers ease the reins and close their legs to the riding horse, laying the whip over the neck of the off horse, to ensure both horses starting together. On the command being given every man in a team should start his horses to prevent loss of distance.

2. In all alterations to a quicker pace the drivers use their legs on the riding horse, and the whip on their off horse as described in Sec. 56.

61. Halting.

1. The lead and centre drivers raise the whip hand as high as the head, the whip horizontal across the front, as a signal to the wheel driver.

All three drivers feel their reins and take their horses out of the collar. The wheel driver, with his right hand on the leading rein, puts his horses back in the breeching.

As soon as the carriage stops, every horse is again put into the collar.

2. At any pace but the walk the lead and centre drivers must allow the wheel driver sufficient time to stop the carriage before they come to the halt.

62. Wheeling to the right.

1. The lead driver wheels his riding horse by leaning his body to the right and feeling the right rein; he brings his off horse round at the same time by feeling the leading rein with his right hand.

The centre and wheel drivers follow the track of the lead driver, laying their whips over their hand horses’ necks in front of the withers to keep them from flying out or hanging back.

Note.—On a horse that is not properly trained the lead driver may have to apply his right leg as an additional aid. No application of the left leg is necessary, as the traces prevent the horse’s quarters from flying out. (See Sec. 43.)

63. Wheeling to the left.

1. The lead driver wheels his riding horse by leaning his body to the left and feeling the left rein; he brings his off horse round at the same time by applying the whip over his neck.

The lead driver may have to apply his left leg on an untrained horse (see note above).

The centre and wheel drivers follow the track of the lead driver, applying the same aids at the point of wheel.

Riding horses must not be allowed to hang back.

64. Wheeling about.

1. In this case the drivers lean their bodies slightly back, and to whichever side they are turning. In going to the right about the wheel driver should take the leading rein in his right hand instead of placing his whip over the neck of the off horse. In wheeling to the left about it may be necessary for him to use both hands on the riding horse to keep him from turning too soon. Otherwise the aids are the same as for wheeling to the right or left, but are continued longer.

2. In order to prevent the carriage from locking, the wheel driver must be very careful to keep up his hand, or riding horse, as the case may be, and the lead driver must on no account make the circle too small.

3. Carriages should be advanced one yard before being wheeled about from the halt.

65. Unlimbering.

1. On the command “Action Front” the guns are unlimbered and brought into action as detailed in the respective handbooks. As soon as the limber is free, the order is given “ Limber drive on.” The drivers advance one yard, wheel to the right about at a trot, and proceed direct to the wagon line.

2. On the command “Action Right (or Left)” the guns are unlimbered and the order “Limber drive on” is given.

The drivers advance one yard, wheel to the left (or right) and proceed to the wagon line as directed.

66. Limbering up.

1. On the command “Front limber up” the gun is reversed, the drivers trot up on the right of the gun, keeping one yard clear in passing it.

When clear of the gun wheel they throw their right shoulders forward, until the near wheel of the limber has just passed the trail eye.

They then halt and pass their horses off to the right until square, the lead and centre drivers easing their traces sufficiently to do so.

The wheel driver must be careful not to let the limber run back on the gun.

2. On the command “Rear limber up” the drivers trot up on the right of the trail eye inclining to the right, if necessary, to allow room for wheeling. The lead driver when he is level with the trail eye wheels to his left and again to his left as soon as he has passed it. To enable the wheel driver to wheel short round, the lead and centre drivers must ease their traces as soon as they have passed the trail eye. The wheel driver by holding in his riding, and keeping up his hand horse, squares the limber, at the same time preventing it running back on the gun.

3. To limber up to the right the drivers trot up; the lead driver passing close to the trail turns to the right when the wheel driver is in line with it; the lead and centre drivers then case their traces and pass their horses off until square. The wheel driver, as soon as he is in line with the trail, turns his horses to the right. In all limbering up the limber is halted by order of the No. 1, but the drivers must look over their shoulders to see that the limber is properly placed.

In limbering up to the left the procedure is similar to the above except that either the wagon or the gun must first be moved clear.

67. Driving up steep hills.

1. To exert his strength to the utmost when pulling up hill, the draught horse must get as much weight as possible forward and into the collar. By assuming a lower and more advanced carriage of the head and neck than he would do if moving balanced and out of draught, he is able to add considerably to his power. He should therefore be allowed full liberty of rein when ascending a steep hill.

2. A draught horse can put more weight into his collar if ridden. Gunners should, therefore, be mounted on the off lead and centre horses when circumstances demand it. All men riding draught horses up hill should lean forward.

3. When manœuvring off the road, steep ascents should be taken in line to avoid checks.

When on a road or track, and if circumstances permit, the battery should be halted at the foot of the hill and sent up either by sections or subsections, with about 10 yards’ distance between carriages.

4. On exceptional occasions, such as when the team is exhausted, an extra pair may be hooked in to each carriage, but it must be remembered that this is of little use unless the ascent is straight, and that in any case it makes steady draught more difficult.

5. Should a check occur when the column is closed up, the lead drivers in rear must be prepared to throw off their horses to the right or left.

6. The pace should be a steady walk during the whole ascent, by which the top will be reached more easily and surely than if an attempt is made to “spring” the hill.

7. The detachments can also assist with drag ropes hooked into the drag washers, or by applying “wheel purchases,” if the carriage actually sticks. To use a drag rope as a “wheel purchase” it is hooked round the felloe near the lowest spoke, and is then laid on the tyre and passed over the wheel to the front. Should the wheel slip round, a drag rope may be wound round the felloe and tyre, with the turns about a foot apart to enable it to get a grip.

8. After going up a steep hill, the horses should be halted, but when this cannot be done, they should be allowed to move slowly to recover their wind.

68. Jibbing.

Horses jib from various causes, such as sore shoulders, a too heavy load, bad driving, sore mouth, lameness, and vice.

The whip only aggravates the evil. A handful of gravel placed in the horse’s mouth often starts a jibber pulling at once especially if the wheels are manned at the same moment. The latter is important in any case.

69. Driving down hill.

1. In driving down hill, the lead and centre drivers hold their horses back to allow the wheel driver the management of the carriage, but the traces must be kept up; the wheel driver with his right hand on the leading rein keeps his horses steadily in the breeching, taking care not to throw them on their haunches, and, in the case of shaft draught harness, not to let too much work fall on the off horse.

2. For moderately steep descents, the brake can be used. Should a descent be so steep that the brake is not sufficient, the detachment must hold on with the drag ropes hooked into the drag washers on the gun carriage or wagon body.

70. Applying the brake.

The brake should be put on sufficiently tight to check but not to skid the wheel. In crossing a valley the man in charge of the brake must begin taking it off soon enough for the wheels to be quite free before the beginning of the rise on the other side is reached, or in fording a river before the carriage gets into the water.

71. Reversing in narrow roads.

Before attempting to reverse, the carriage should be drawn up as close to the side of the road as possible. The carriage is next unlimbered, and the lead and centre horses unhooked and taken out. The gun or wagon body is then reversed, followed by the limber.

72. Driving a pair of horses from the box.

1. When driven from the box, horses will neither work comfortably nor be under perfect control, unless so coupled that when on the move with an even bearing on the reins their heads are straight. The bearing of the bits on their mouths should be light, but constant, and the reins should never be allowed to slip through the driver’s fingers.

A pair of horses, worked as such, should frequently be interchanged. This will prevent the acquirement of bad habits, such as pulling away from the pole, shouldering the pole, &c.

2. To put to.—The horses should be led up alongside the pole by the noseband (not by the bit), the chain should then be passed through the ring of the breast collar or kidney link of the hames. The traces should next be fastened, the outer ones first, and finally the horses should be poled up and coupled together. In unhooking the above procedure is reversed.

The correct adjustment of the coupling reins requires great care. With a view to this, the outer reins have a number of holes punched in them, up and down which the buckles of the coupling reins can be shifted, thus enabling them to be shortened or lengthened to suit each particular horse’s mouth. For instance, if the near horse carries his head to the near side, the coupling rein on the off side should be taken up, when his head will be straightened, and vice versâ.

3. Sitting on the box.—The driver should sit square to his front on the box, which should be low enough to allow of his legs being well bent at the knee. If the box seat is too high he is liable to be pulled off when a horse stumbles.

4. How to hold the reins and whip.—The near rein passes over the forefinger, the off rein between the middle and third fingers of the left hand, both reins fall through the palm of the hand and hang loose on the left side of the driver’s knees. The reins are kept in position in the hand by the pressure of the third and fourth fingers assisted by the second; the thumb and forefinger should not be used for this purpose. The wrist should be rounded.

The whip should be held between the lower part of the thumb and the base of the forefinger of the right hand, thus leaving the fingers free. The point of the whip should be carried up, the stick inclined across the body and to the front. The position of the whip should not be changed when the right hand manipulates the reins. When required, the right hand can be placed on the reins in front of the left, the first and second fingers on top of the near rein, and the other two between the reins. The former grip the near rein and the latter the off rein.

Reins should always be shortened or lengthened from the front; i.e., either pushed back through the left hand or pulled out through the left hand.

5. Use of the whip.—The whip should be employed as sparingly as possible. When used, the thong should be applied on the shoulder and drawn across from right to left, or vice versâ.

6. Turning.—To turn or incline to the right, the right hand grasps the right rein in the full of the hand, knuckles up and inclined to the front. This gives the firmest hold and at the same time allows of the position of the whip being maintained. To turn to the left, the left rein is grasped in the same manner.

7. Driving up hill.—An even and steady walk should be maintained when travelling up a steep hill; if the load is exceptionally heavy and circumstances permit, the horses should be allowed to incline from one side of the road to the other as the wagon ascends.

8. Driving down hill.—The pace cannot be too slow in descending a hill, and the brake should not be applied until the horses take the breeching. When the shoe is used the wheel to which it is applied should be chained to the carriage; this prevents all chance of accident should the shoe become unshipped when travelling over rough ground.

Training the Young Horse.

73. General principles.

1. The training of the horse must be gradual, and accompanied by a steady development of his physical powers.

It is better to give a remount two short lessons a day than one long one, for it must be remembered that the tendons and muscles of a young, immature animal are easily injured by too much continuous work, and they must be gradually strengthened in order to stand the strain to which they will be subjected.

Simplicity and suggestion should be prominent features in the first stage of training; the horse not only has to learn the meaning of the bridle and the leg, but must also adjust his balance to carrying a weight on his back.

2. Free forward movement should, therefore, be the first aim of the trainer, and as the horse learns the meaning of the bridle he should gradually be made to move well up to it and at the same time taught to carry his head for height in as good a position as nature will allow.

This may be called the first stage of the training, and should be carried out on a snaffle, if available. When the horse will go forward quietly he should be worked in the open.

3. The second stage of the training should consist in balancing and collecting the horse, in teaching him to turn on his hocks, to passage, to rein back, and to obey the aids quickly when ridden with one hand; to go quietly by himself or in company and to leave other horses freely; and where necessary to become accustomed to sword and rifle.

A few horses are naturally so well balanced, that if they have good tempers and are properly ridden, this part of their education offers no difficulties, but most artillery remounts will be heavy in front and awkward to turn excepting on the forehand. For handiness and for the safety of the rider they should be taught to carry more weight on their hocks—in fact to move in the most balanced manner that is possible, having regard to their make and to the retention of their liberty of movement.

This portion of the training, or most of it, should be carried out with the universal bridle, and while the pressure of the legs will often have to be strong, the handling of the reins should be of the gentlest, or the trainer will defeat his own ends.

4. The third stage of the training consists in teaching the horse to go quietly in draught in any position in a team.

5. Patience, firmness, and pluck are necessary to all entrusted with the training of young horses. Some horses are very much quicker at learning than others, and no rule can be laid down; on no account should the trainer attempt to hurry matters.

The trainer should communicate to his pupil his appreciation of any progress made by immediately rewarding him with a handful of corn or a carrot. Under no circumstances should he lose his temper with his horse, and punishment should only be resorted to when it is certain that the horse understands what he is required to do, but will not do it.

Instructors must not imagine that the animal can learn a lesson only by constant repetition. A horse is quick to receive new impressions, and remembers them after comparatively few lessons, provided they are given in a proper way.

6. As with recruits, jumping should be constantly practised throughout the training, commencing at an early stage over very low obstacles and always with a due consideration for the horse’s legs.

7. The same system of training is not applicable to every breed and condition of horse. The principles, however, are the same, and must be modified to suit the temperament of the animal, and his condition when he reaches the trainer.

Factors, which greatly influence the duration of the training and its ultimate success, are the capability of the rider and instructor; the temperament, make, and condition of the horse; and the training ground available.

74. First stage.

1. Remounts arrive in all kinds of condition, and the methods adopted with them should be those best suited to their nature, condition and age.

The first day or two will be profitably spent by the trainer in getting thoroughly acquainted with his pupil. A snaffle having been put in the horse’s mouth, the trainer should lead him about, giving him confidence and making him acquainted with his voice. He may then handle him about the head and forehand. To prevent injuries to the mouth, it is a good plan at this early stage to lead the horse by reins attached to the D’s. of the head-collar, the snaffle being left to hang loosely in his mouth. During these lessons the horse should be given a handful of corn or green meat from time to time.

2. Backing a remount.—As soon as the remount has become accustomed to being led from either side and is quiet, he may be saddled, but before he is mounted he should be allowed time to accustom himself to the feel of the saddle.

An assistant should stand in front of the horse, holding a rein of the snaffle in each hand; the man saddling him should hold the saddle by the back arch with the pommel over his right hip (the stirrups and girths having previously been thrown over the seat); he should then place the saddle, quickly and quietly, on the horse’s back, let the girths down, and tighten them gradually.

In backing a horse for the first time the help of two assistants is advisable, one on the off side, who should hold the head collar in his right hand and the off stirrup in his left, the other on the near side holding the snaffle rein in his left hand. The trainer grasping the back arch of the saddle in his right and the front arch in his left hand, should stand close to his horse on the near side, and raise his left foot up behind him by bending his knee; the second assistant will then grasp his leg just above the ankle and raise him quietly into the saddle on his stomach. This should be repeated several times until the horse is accustomed to the weight, when the assistant will place the rider’s left foot in the stirrup, who will then raise himself in the stirrup and throw his right leg clean over the horse’s quarters and drop quietly into the saddle; the remount should then be led a pace or two forward by the assistant in order to accustom him to the weight whilst moving; the rider avoiding too strong a pressure with the legs.

After two or three lessons, if the horse is quiet, the trainer may mount with the stirrup in the usual way, great care being taken not to touch him with the toe.

3. Considerable time and special pains should be taken to teach the young horse to stand absolutely still when being mounted or dismounted.

In dismounting the first few times it is advisable for an assistant to stand in front of the horse, and the rider after throwing his right leg over to the near side should remain lying across the saddle as in mounting, then quit his left stirrup and slide quietly to the ground. This method will prevent any possibility of the rider sticking his toe into the horse’s ribs, which is liable to make him unsteady.

4. During this period the trainer should devote his time to riding the horse about at a free walk, slow trot and canter, and to teaching him to stand still when required, and to lead easily.

To teach the remount to move forward freely at the walk, the rider should hold his reins long and use his legs.

To teach him to stand still, constant practice and the use of an assistant when necessary are required; the trainer should mount and dismount from either side, time after time, not allowing the horse to move forward immediately after mounting.

The horse should also be taught to do large circles to either hand and practised over very small jumps and should be ridden frequently outside barracks.

5. In exceptional cases it may be necessary to devote time to raising or lowering the horse’s head to the right position as far as nature will allow. It should be borne in mind that the same good carriage of head and suppleness of neck cannot be expected of all makes and shapes of horses.

The raising or lowering of the horse’s head must be done gradually, and as much as possible on the move, for if done at the halt he is apt to get behind the bit, and his freedom of action will be endangered. It should be effected by the combined action of the legs and hands. The legs compel the horse to move forward, drive and keep him up to the bit; the hands through the reins and snaffle regulate the position of the horse’s head and neck. The trainer must ride with a sympathetic hand; that is, he must relax the pressure as soon as the horse places his head in the required position, only retaining sufficient feeling on the mouth to maintain the head in position. If the horse’s head requires raising, the rider does so by holding his hands high. If the head requires lowering, the hands are depressed, but without jerking the reins.

6. This stage may seem tedious, but it must not be hurried. It is most important towards moulding the horse’s future disposition, and for building up his physical strength and preparing him for harder work later on.

75. Second stage.

1. Balancing and collecting the young horse.—Hitherto the rider’s only endeavour has been to teach the horse to go freely up to the bridle keeping his head at the proper height. He must now be taught to give to the bridle by bending his neck at the poll and slightly yielding his lower jaw, care being taken that in yielding the head is not lowered.

The trainer must not attempt much at one time. The longer a continuous pressure on the reins is maintained, the less inclined is the horse to yield, for the discomfort becomes less, the mouth losing its sensitiveness. The application of the legs must often be strong to make the horse yield.

A natural law of leverage governs the position of the horse’s head as the head and neck are moved forward and downwards, the centre of gravity of the whole horse is brought forward and he becomes heavier in the forehand and freer or lighter behind. At a trot or canter the horse naturally draws his head up to lighten the weight on his fore legs, and to give them free and equal play with the hind legs.

The young horse should be trained to carry his head fairly high at the trot and canter, and at such angle with the neck as will allow the bit to have the best bearing on the bars of the mouth. As a horse cannot put his fore feet down on the ground beyond his nose, he extends his neck when galloping in order to lengthen his stride. By thus moving his centre of gravity forward he lightens the weight on his quarters and obtains the full propelling power of his hind legs.

A horse when jumping makes use of his neck both as an assistance in taking off and to adjust his balance on landing; his head therefore should remain perfectly free during every phase of the jump.

The bending lesson (see Sec. 44) is useful for balancing and collecting the young horse and for teaching him to obey the rider’s legs. Instruction should commence either on foot or with the horse’s head towards the wall, care being taken to make him bend correctly.

The exercises described in Sec. 46 are useful for teaching the young horse to walk, trot and canter collectedly, but at first plenty of time must be allowed for the horse to settle down quietly at each successive period of cantering, trotting or walking.

2. The rein back is also a useful exercise in the training of a young horse. It collects him and teaches him to get his haunches under him, but it should never be practised for more than a few minutes at a time, nor should it be attempted until the horse will move well up to his bridle.

To teach a horse to rein back, it is best to begin on foot and to continue mounted, assisted by a man on foot.

The man on foot should stand in front of the horse and endeavour to make him go back quietly one or two paces at a time. He should feel the bit gently, but without a dead continuous pressure; if necessary, he may give a light tap to the horse’s leading foreleg, should he decline to move backwards.

When mounted, collect the horse by leg pressure and bring the weight of the body slightly forward; feel one side (say the right) of the horse’s mouth by the least movement of the wrist, at the same time apply the pressure of the left leg to the horse’s side so as to prevent him from moving his hindquarters to the left; lean the body a little to the right, and feel both reins. As soon as the horse draws back the off fore leg, reverse the aids until he draws back the near fore leg and so on. The ultimate object in view is to teach him to go backwards with his head carried as high as when going forward.

3. During this stage the remount should also be taught to change his legs at the canter, for which purpose the figure of eight (see Sec. 46) is a good exercise, provided the horse is first of all made to go kindly and collectedly on the larger circle.

4. In order that the horse may retain his full freedom of movement he should frequently be made to walk out fast and canter with a loose rein. To make a horse walk out, ease the reins and close the legs alternately, not both legs together as in the trot.

76. Teaching a horse to stand
still without being held.

A horse can be trained to stand still without being held in the following way:—

Replace the rein with a strong piece of rope, throw the rope rein thus made over the animal’s head, and fasten a sack to the end of it; the effect of this is that as the horse moves forward he treads on the sack, and gives himself a severe job in the mouth; after a few lessons it will be found that the horse will not move when the reins are thrown over his head, and the sack can be left off.

77. Teaching the young horse to jump.

1. General principles.—The aim of the instructor should be to teach the horse to jump ordinary natural obstacles willingly and safely. To this end outdoor jumping courses will be found very valuable. There should be one with small and another with fair-sized jumps, all as much like natural fences as possible, and laid out on cinder-tracks so as to be available all the year round.

Jumps in the school should not only represent height, but breadth; the horse to be useful must learn to jump out as well as up.

The secret in making a safe fencer is gradual and systematic training; even if a horse shows great promise when first jumped his education should in no way be hurried. He may lose his courage through an early and unnecessary fall.

2. First lessons.—There are many ways of commencing; if the horse is fairly fit and will answer to the hand and leg he may be ridden over low and simple fences at once. To avoid all chance of failure it will, however, generally be found best to begin on foot and either to lead or lunge him over the jump. In a school or confined space the best method is first to lead the horse over a bar laid on the ground, and afterwards to lead him up to it and let him go. The obstacle should be gradually raised, always being put up firmly, and a man should stand at the far end of the school with a basket of corn. In a very short time most horses will jump a fence 3 feet 6 inches high with enjoyment. The class of obstacle should be varied as much as possible as time goes on.

The lungeing whip should never be used, as the horse will watch it instead of measuring his distance and calculating the jump.

If the single lungeing-rein and cavesson are used, the rein may be attached to the front of the cavesson and the animal led over the jump, or it may be fastened to a side D, when he should be made to take the fence on the circle. If done in this way it is a good plan to have a wing made to carry the rein over and prevent it catching in the obstacle and checking the horse suddenly.

3. Further training in jumping.—After a sufficient schooling following any of the above methods, the remount may be sent down a jumping-lane if one is available, an old horse acting as pilot on the first occasion, or if there is no lane he may be ridden over small fences in the open. The first jumping lessons should be given at a trot. At this pace horses learn where to take off and jump from their hocks without chancing a fence.

When a young but not impetuous horse is being ridden at a fence, he should be allowed to go his own pace in reason; in this way he learns to adopt the pace most suited to the obstacle and to get back on his hocks for a high one.

78. Third stage.

1. Before a horse is put into draught he should fulfil the following conditions:—

i. Stand still to be mounted or dismounted.

ii. Be balanced, as well as make and shape will allow.

iii. Be able to do a figure of 8 correctly, passage, rein back, halt collectedly; change his legs when turning, so as to lead with the correct fore and hind leg, and when turned about do so actively on his hocks and not on his fore hand.

iv. Be a good jumper.

v. Be accustomed to gun fire and traffic.

vi. Go alone or in company, at any pace required of him without pulling, and be ready to shorten his stride and pull up when required.

2. All officers should understand how to train horses to draught.

The remount should be harnessed with great care, and led about until the novelty has worn off. He should then be put into the hand centre in the following manner:—

The drivers being mounted, and the remaining five horses in the team standing just out of draught, the remount should be led up to his place by two men, one on each side, the man on the off side holding the horse’s head rope, which should previously have been undone. The man on the near side should then hand the leading rein to the centre driver, and go to the off quarters of the remount, moving round the horse’s head to get there. He should next push the horse’s quarter gently over until the animal stands square to its front in the team, and make much of him. He should then take the traces quietly and hook in as described in Sec. 58. The remaining five horses should now be put into their collars, and at the command “Walk march” the team should move straight to its front. The centre driver’s whip should be in his leg iron, and he should use his right hand to make much of his hand horse. The remount should not be asked to take the collar until he settles down and walks along quietly, When this is the case, the man who has been holding the head rope on the off side may knot it round the animal’s neck. He must, however, keep with the team, and be prepared to hold the rope or head collar again when turning is undertaken. All wheeling should be to the left at first. When turns to the right are attempted the greatest care should be taken to prevent the remount from running back and getting a leg over a trace.

As soon as the animal goes quietly in the off centre, knows his work, and understands the application of the whip as an aid, he should be put into the hand lead and then into the hand wheel. When he goes well in any place in the team his education is complete.

Riding and Retraining Awkward Horses.

79. General remarks.

Remounts joining the Service unbacked or unspoilt, unless exceptionally vicious, ought never to come under this heading. A horse properly trained in the first instance will only develop faults through subsequent bad riding or ill-treatment.

The results of bad handling are shown in defective carriage and paces; in a nervous, sulky, or irritable temperament; or in a combination of the two.

When the animal is put back into the ranks, he should be given to a good horseman, and if possible not be ridden by anyone else. Horses rarely forget bad habits, and quickly relapse into them.

The work of retraining a horse is much more difficult than that of “making” a young and untrained one; riders should therefore be specially selected.

The trainer should first make himself thoroughly acquainted with the animal’s faults, and then set to work to systematically and patiently eradicate them. It will, in some cases, be found best to treat the horse as untrained and begin his education afresh.

As the work will usually be of a corrective character the horse’s corn and exercise should be carefully regulated according to his amenability to discipline: good results cannot be obtained as long as the animal is “above himself.”

80. Pullers.

1. The usual causes of pulling are:—

• i. Excitability.
• ii. Pain.
• iii. Fear.
• iv. Freshness and want of work.
• v. Hard-mouth.
• vi. Bad training.

2. Excitability.—Some horses, which are naturally of a nervous, highly-strung disposition, become upset by unaccustomed sights and sounds, a crowd, or galloping at a fast pace, especially in company with other horses.

No special bit will cure this kind of puller, the only remedy is plenty of work commencing at slow paces. Only the best horsemen in the unit, possessing patience and good hands, should be allowed to ride them.

3. Pain.—Another frequent cause of pulling is pain. A horse’s mouth is most sensitive, and many horses pull through the pain caused by the bit, or because their grinder teeth are long and sharp and thus cut the sides of their cheeks. Horse’s mouths, especially of those who have suddenly taken to pulling, should be constantly examined, particularly the bars, under the tongue and close up against the grinders. A neglected wound in the mouth may make a young horse pull or spoil his mouth by forcing him to hold the bit on one side to protect the injured part. If a horse’s mouth is found to be sore, he should be given a rest, being exercised if necessary on a cavesson, and when the wound is healed ridden for a time in a snaffle. If the grinders are long and sharp it is a simple operation to remove the sharp points and edges with a rasp. The corners of the lips also may become sore owing to the bit being too narrow, or through being rubbed; the curb chain may also injure the chin-groove, in which case the wound should first be healed and then a guard should be used.

4. Fear.—Some horses pull through fear. The only remedy for this is to endeavour to accustom them to the cause of their alarm. They should be treated kindly and only ridden by careful, patient men. If a horse in his early training has been taught to obey the voice, this will often be of great assistance in calming him.

5. Freshness.—The remedy for a horse which pulls from this cause is to give him more slow, steady work, and less food.

6. Hard-mouth and bad training.—The best results are, as a rule, obtained from retraining by a good horseman and plenty of school work, especially cantering in small circles and figures of 8. If he pulls with his mouth open, it should be shut by an adjustable noseband.

7. The great object with a puller is to get him to go collectedly. His head should be kept up, but a dead pull on the reins must be avoided, as this enables him to set his head and neck against the pressure on the bit; instead, give and take to him alternately with the reins.

If a horse throws his head up, and pulls with his head in that position, the standing martingale, properly applied, will stop him.

81. Refusers.

1. Refusals may be due to any of the following reasons, or to a combination of several:—

• i. Insufficient elementary schooling.
• ii. Want of heart or nerve in the rider.
• iii. From the horse having been jobbed in the mouth or
• unintentionally spurred when jumping, thus receiving
• severe punishment for obeying the rider’s wishes.
• iv. Sickened by too much jumping, especially on hard ground.
• v. Seeing other horses refuse.
• vi. Lameness or sore shins.
• vii. Ill-fitting or too severe a bit.
• viii. Sore back or badly fitting saddle.
• ix. Want of heart or nerve in the horse.
• x. Vice.

2. Before attempting to effect a cure every effort should be made to diagnose the cause.

In many cases it is advisable to do a good deal of work on foot, leading and lungeing the horse over low fences. As soon as obedience is assured, the horse should be mounted again.

3. The best way to deal with a horse that has been unintentionally ill-treated in the mouth is to remove the curb chain if he has one, and to jump him over low obstacles without reins, and then gradually to bring him on to jumping with reins.

4. A horse may sometimes refuse because he has lost his nerve temporarily. In such a case, if he is taken three or four times over quite a small fence, and then brought back to the original one, he will probably jump it all right.

5. Sharp rowels may be necessary on a slug or a cur, but the liability of the rider to spur his mount under some conditions without meaning to do so is a disadvantage.

6. The faint-hearted or vicious horse should be treated with resolution, and be made to feel that the rider is determined to jump. This is communicated to the horse by holding the reins in both hands and feeling his mouth with firmness, but not roughly or with undue pressure, and above all by pressing him to the bit by the legs. Care must be taken not to ride the horse slantingways at the jump or at a spot near the outside edge of the fence; the rider should be on the look out for the horse swerving round or running out. The horse should be taken slowly up to within a few lengths of the fence and then put straight at it by the rider increasing his leg pressure and decreasing slightly the feeling on the horse’s mouth.

If he whips round, the horse should be turned back the opposite way to face the fence, then reined back a short distance and when quite square, put at it again. If necessary he should be helped on with the spur without relaxing the leg pressure. Once over the fence the horse should be made much of.

82. Horses that rush at their fences.

1. Horses that persist in rushing at their fences and that get very excited when jumping are best cured by steady, quiet practice. Such a horse should be circled round in front of the fence as though he were not going to jump it, until he settles down, when he may be jumped over the obstacle.

He should be taught to stand quietly in front of a fence.

On no account should he be spurred or have his mouth jerked. After landing over a fence he should be eased up gently to a slow pace and never allowed to get out of hand.

He should not be jumped when very fresh.

83. Horses that decline to
leave the ranks, and
“fretting” horses.

In addition to putting a good man on their backs such horses may be greatly improved by being kept stabled alone and ridden alone for some months. If a horse refuses to leave the ranks, do not slacken the reins by pushing the hands forward, but feel his mouth and press him on with the legs. Jogging the horse in the ribs with the heels or spurs and slackening the reins will make him worse. It he continues to decline to leave the ranks, rein him back two or three feet, then suddenly take him unawares and urge him forward with leg pressure.

84. Horses that decline to stand
still when being mounted.

1. Such horses should be mounted and dismounted on both sides slowly, time after time every day.

2. If the horse refuses to stand still after this treatment the following method may be efficacious.

Put a loop under the horse’s upper lip and over the poll with a slip knot, and when he becomes restive give it a slight jerk and say “Steady.” The horse connects the sound of the voice with the pain caused by the twitch, and he will learn to remain still even without the word being said. The twitch must never be used except in conjunction with the voice.

After doing this a few times, when mounting, the trainer should dispense with the twitch, and with the left hand holding the reins and the cheek piece of the bridle, should say the word “steady,” and swing himself into the saddle, without leaving go of the cheek piece till he is firmly seated; the horse connects the word and the pressure of the hand on the cheek piece with the twitch, and will, as a rule, stand as steadily as he would with the twitch still on him.

3. The best way to mount a horse that will not stand still is as follows: With the left hand gather the reins loosely and seize the cheek piece, hold the stirrup iron in the right hand and allow the horse to walk round. Then place the left foot in the stirrup, and transfer the right hand to the pommel or other part of the saddle. The horse will then revolve in a small circle, of which the right toe of the rider is the centre, and the latter should be able to mount without difficulty.

85. General vice and bad temper.

1. Such horses are most likely to be improved by a careful regulation of work and feeding, by being stabled by themselves, and by gentle treatment both in the stable and outside.

2. Kicking and bucking.—If a horse begins to kick or buck, sit back, and take the reins in both hands—keep the horse’s head up or pulled right round to one side—get him on the move and away from other horses as quickly as possible.

3. Rearing.—If a horse starts to rear, take the reins in both hands, lean forward and leave his mouth alone. If the rider leans his weight on that part of the reins which passes from one hand to the other over the withers (see Sec. 39, 4) it is an assistance. Get the horse on the move at the first opportunity, if necessary hitting him over the quarters, but not between the ears.

86. Refractory draught horses.

1. The vices enumerated in this section should only occur in the case of hired horses or of remounts joining on mobilization.

2. A horse that refuses to be led up to his place in draught.—If all persuasion fails he should be blindfolded with a horse rubber, and then led up; the cloth should not be removed until the team starts.

3. A horse that refuses to stand still when being hooked in.—One fore leg should either be held up or strapped up.

4. A horse that jibs at starting.—Jibbing has already been dealt with in Sec. 68. If there is plenty of time one of the horse’s fore legs should be strapped up until he tires, and then the attempt may be made to start him. Tapping a horse below and behind the knee is sometimes effective.

5. A kicker.—Use either a kicking strap or a tight bearing rein.

6. A puller.—Use a bearing rein and side rein.⁠ Both should be fitted tight when the horse is standing still, or they will be useless when he moves.

7. Leaning on the pole.—A dandy brush strapped to the pole will often cure this.

8. Leaning away from the pole.—Change the horse’s side.

Care and Disposal of Saddlery and Harness.

87. Care of saddlery and harness.

1. Care should be exercised in the handling of all articles of harness and saddlery. Saddles should not be dropped or thrown about as fractured arches or broken side bars may result, and the usefulness of collar pads is liable to be destroyed if subjected to unfair usage.

Minor defects should be attended to at once. Stitching should be tested from time to time, as the life of thread is short compared with that of leather.

Stirrup leathers should be exchanged occasionally or be shortened at the buckle end, so as to bring the wear on fresh holes.

Girth tabs require special attention and must be renewed as the holes wear.

2. The leather work of all saddlery should be kept soft and supple. Seats and flaps of saddles and handled parts of reins should not be polished. It is particularly important to keep leather girths supple with grease.

3. It is rarely necessary to scrub leather work. Parts affected by sweat from the horse, such as inside surfaces of breast collars, girths, &c., should be sponged after use with clean cold water, and then soaped.

4. Leather must not be washed with soda or in very hot water, as its vitality is quickly affected by either; nor must it be subjected to heat from a fire, as this destroys its durability.

5. All saddlery and harness should be taken to pieces periodically and carefully inspected. Once or twice a year certain parts, such as the inside of breechings, should be dubbed, the leather having first been moistened with a sponge, and in cold weather the dubbin should be warmed before use. After two or three days the residue of the dubbin should be removed with a dry brush or rubber.

All leather work should be dubbed before being put away in store, and should be overhauled from time to time, especially in hot or damp climates.

6. Ropes, web girths and whips should be scrubbed with clean cold water when necessary, and pipeclay should not be used on them.

Saddle blankets, panne’s, and numnahs should be placed in the sun or wind to dry, and then beaten and brushed.

7. Steel or iron work such as bits should be wiped over immediately on arriving in billets, stables or camp, and then rubbed with an oil rag. This will save much subsequent trouble if done before rust has time to form.

88. Disposal of saddlery and harness
in harness rooms or stables.

1. Saddlery.—The breastpiece is placed on the saddle peg, the sides hanging straight down.

The traces are folded in three equal lengths, secured by the bearing straps, and are hung by the hooks to the Ds on the breastpiece.

The bridle should be hung up complete, as on the horse’s head, the curb hooked over the front of the bit.

The head rope is hung up as on the horse.

The saddle is placed on the peg cantle outwards, with the surcingle and girth buckled as if on the horse. The stirrups hang at riding length inside the backband of the head collar.

Nose bags if not in use are kept with the other articles of horse kit.

2. Harness.—The saddles are hung from the pegs, the blankets being placed over the pegs and under the breast collars.

The breast collar is hung on the harness peg by the padded neck strap under the blanket. In the case of lead harness the short traces are hooked to the end link of the chains attached to the tugs and hang straight down. The traces are hung by hooking the Ds on to small pegs on each side of the harness peg.

The bridle is hung on the harness peg as if on the horse’s head—the reins should hang down from the bit.

The head rope is hung up as on the horse.

The breeching is hung under the padded neck strap.

The legging is hung on the same peg as the inside trace of the riding set, by the top strap, which is buckled; the other straps are left unbuckled ready to put on.

The whip is hung by the hand loop on the same peg as the inside trace of the hand set of harness.

89. Disposal of saddlery
and harness in bivouac.

1. Saddlery.—The saddle complete is placed on the ground resting on the pommel; the stirrup irons are hooked on the points of the side bars.

The bridle is placed with the head piece of the bit on the side bars.

The whole is wrapped in the harness wrapper.

2. Harness.—Harness and saddlery are to be laid down one yard in rear of the line of heel pegs. The breast collar is placed on its lower edge in a circle. The breeching is coiled round it. The traces are round the breeching. The saddle is placed on top, seat uppermost, the bottom of the flaps being turned up inwards—this keeps the breast collar from being crushed when the harness is tied up.

The whole of the head gear is laid across the top of the seat.

The legging is placed inside the breast collar under the saddle of the riding set. The whip is placed inside the breast collar of the hand set. The whole is wrapped in the harness wrapper.

Care of Wagons.

90. General instructions.

(See also Handbooks of the various guns.)

1. It is only by giving constant attention to the vehicles that transport service can be efficient.

The axles and the pipe-boxes of wheels should be frequently greased, and should be kept free of dust, grit and old grease which contains small particles of metal and sand, that wear down the surrounding parts.

2. To grease the axle, remove the wheel and carefully clean the axle and inside of the pipe-box. Then smear the inside of the pipe-box and the outside of the axle with fresh grease and replace the wheel.

3. Wheels, showing too much play on the axletree arm, should have a leather or steel washer placed on the arm at the outer end of the pipe-box, between it and the linch-pin washer.

In very dry climates it may be necessary at times to keep the wheels constantly wetted to prevent the woodwork warping, cracking and shrinking.

Loading a Wagon or Cart.

91. General instructions.

1. Wagons.—The battery commander should have an inventory of what each wagon is to carry made out the day previous to a march, unless they are G.S. wagons horsed and loaded according to the official tables in the Field Service Manual. Bulk as well as weight must be taken into consideration in assessing the loads, this is necessary to secure good packing and efficient transport service. The weights of the various articles are given in the Field Service Manual.

The load which is to go in each wagon should be placed beside it before the packing begins. An experienced man should then get up into the wagon and name the articles in the order in which he wishes them to be handed up to him. When the packing is complete the tarpaulin should be roped carefully over the wagon to ensure against wet and loss.

2. Loading a two-wheeled cart.—Care should be taken that the cart when loaded is properly balanced. There should be a weight of about 10 lbs. on the tugs. If the load is placed too far forward, the off horse is unnecessarily weighted: if too far back, draught becomes more difficult.

Special Instructions for Mountain Artillery.

92. Position of driver.

1. On parade the driver stands to attention on the near side of his mule, holding the loop of the rein in his left hand, which should hang down by his side; while with the right hand he takes hold of the double rein about 6 inches behind the mule’s jaw, keeping the animal’s head in its natural position.

“Stand at Ease.”—Keeping both legs straight, carry the left foot about one foot-length to the left as at dismounted drill, and slide the right hand down the rein to the full extent of the arm.

“March.”—Every driver will at once step off as at dismounted drill, causing the mule to start off steadily at the same time by a gentle feeling of the leading rein. He will march abreast of his mule, and should rarely pull at the leading rein, as mules move best with a loose rein and require a light hand.

“Halt.”—The driver halts as at dismounted drill, coming to the position of attention and halting the mule at the same time by a gentle pressure on the leading rein. Drivers should be taught to lead their mules from either side.

To salute when passing an officer, a driver should look towards him without moving his hand or altering his position.

93. Fitting saddlery of ordnance mules.

1. The saddle should be placed in the middle of the mule’s back so as to interfere as little as possible with its free action. The two pannels should contain the same quantity of stuffing, should feel elastic, and have an even bearing on the back and sides throughout. It is best to have a distinct channel between the pannels along the top of the mule’s back; the broader the channel the better.

The pannels should be so fitted that the saddle rides level along the mule’s back as low as possible. They must not pinch the withers, nor touch the backbone, and should allow of at least three fingers being inserted in front and rear of the saddle.

2. Girths.—Should be crossed beneath the mule, and should be drawn slightly tighter than with riding saddles, but should be loose enough to allow one finger to be inserted between them and the mule’s body when the load is on.

3. Breast-piece and breeching.—Should hang from their supporting straps as horizontally as possible at such a height as will not impede the free action of the limbs or breathing.

4. Crupper.—Should not be tighter than is necessary to keep the saddle from shifting forward, and should be loose enough to admit the breadth of the hand between it and the mule’s croup. Care must be taken that none of the mule’s hair remains between it and its dock. The dock of the crupper must at all times be kept very soft and pliable.

5. Bits, head collar, and curb chain as for horses.

6. Leading rein.—To be fastened to both rings of bridoon bit. The Ts of the rein passed through from inside to outside, the reins double in the driver’s right hand, loop of rein in left hand.

The following method of attaching the rein to the bridoon bit may be adopted to gain more control over restive mules and to prevent mules stampeding when under fire, etc.:—

i. Pass one of the Ts of the rein through the near ring of the bit from inside to out.

ii. Pass the other T through the off ring of the bit from outside to in and then through the near ring from inside to out.

The rein can now be used in the ordinary way; when, however, it is required to restrain a restive mule, or it is apprehended that mules may be frightened by coming under fire or otherwise, pull the T of the near rein, thus pulling the rein through the near ring of the bit, pass the loop of the rein in round the mule’s nose and haul fairly taut. The rein is now single in the driver’s hand, and when hauled on, compresses the mule’s nose and stops him.

94. Training young mules.

1. Young mules are naturally timid and easily startled, but they are, as a rule, docile and easily broken in, if treated with great kindness and patience. Rough treatment of any kind must be avoided as likely to prove fatal to the successful training of the mule. Men must be carefully selected to break remount mules, and gunners will assist, if the drivers are natives, so as to accustom the mules to be handled by Europeans.

2. Saddling must be done at first with great caution, the saddle only being placed gently on the mule’s back and moved about quietly so as to accustom the animal to the feel of it before putting on the girths. In girthing up care must be taken not to draw the girths so tight as to cause any uneasiness to the mule, which will then be walked about and allowed to get used to the saddle before the other harness is gradually added. With the crupper especially great patience must be exercised, as it is likely at first to upset a timid mule.

3. A mule should be thoroughly accustomed to walking about with the saddle and harness before it is tried under a load. It is as well to start training a mule to carry loads by using two bags of sand or earth, weighing 80 lbs. each, and when it walks about with these quietly the training can be completed by substituting other loads. A young mule should always be allowed to become familiar with the sight of a load before this is tried on the saddle.

4. Young mules should accompany the battery on all hill parades from the first to accustom them to difficult ground and train their head and wind for hill work. They should be barebacked at first and when broken to the saddle should be saddled for parade.

5. They should not be loaded on the hillside till five years old, and at first the load should be a light one and only carried for a short distance; it should be gradually increased up to the full weight which the mule will be required to carry.

6. Finally, young mules must be trained to jump small ditches and similar obstacles without hesitation, and, at the end of the training, this should be done with a load on. In leaping a mule, the rein must always be left loose and a whip should not be used.

95. Leading mules.

1. On good ground pack animals should always move closed up to their proper distance, but in going up or down hill and in crossing difficult ground the drivers will increase their distance and regulate their pace as circumstances may require. Should any mules appear distressed, they should be halted to enable them to recover their breath.

2. The driver should always give the mule a long rein when moving over rough or hilly country; this is quickly effected by the driver letting go the rein with the right hand, seizing the T-piece from the outside of the ring of the bit and pulling the rein through. In difficult ground the gunners will assist by steadying the loads and helping the mules along. It may even be necessary to unload the mules and carry the loads over an obstacle by hand. It is frequently advisable to attach drag ropes to top loads when descending steep places.

For ascents the driver must tighten the breastpiece and loosen the breeching of his mule, and for descents he will tighten the breeching and loosen the breastpiece. This can be quickly done without halting by means of the chain attachments of the breastpiece and breeching.

3. When a halt is ordered, any driver who has lost ground will continue to move with his mule until he has recovered his proper distance. Closing up to recover distance must be done steadily and by a gradual increase of pace, not by rushing. Trotting should not be allowed except by order.

When halting on hill roads, mules should be turned to stand level across the roads with their heads outwards from the hillside. If the width of the road does not admit of this, the drivers must stand to the head of their mules and keep them from turning, so as to avoid accidents.

4. It will happen sometimes on narrow roads that the driver must march in front of his mule. When this is the case, he must resume his position beside the mule and close up again to his proper distance as soon as the road widens sufficiently.

5. If a load becomes disarranged, the driver will fall out to the most convenient flank as soon as he can find room on the road, and when the load has been readjusted, he will, as soon as practicable, regain his place in column.

When a laden mule falls, its head should be held down to prevent it struggling, and the load must be removed before the mule is allowed to get up. In very difficult or dangerous ground the saddle should be removed as well as the load.