Journal of A Voyage to Discover the North East Passage; Under the Command of the Hon. Commodore Phipps, and Capt. Skiffington Lutwych, in His Majesty’s Ships Race Horse and Carcase Bombs

All things being now in readiness, the officers on board, and the men paid their bounty-money of three pounds per man, according to his Majesty’s royal proclamation, for the encouragement of those who should voluntarily enter to undertake the voyage. On the 3d of June 1773, the Commodore made the signal to weigh; but previous to their departure, the Carcase having been judged too deep to navigate those heavy seas through which she was to pass, the Captain obtained leave from the board of Admiralty to re-land ten of her compliment of men, and to put ashore six of the eight six-pounders with which she was equipped, with a quantity of provisions, proportioned to the number of men that it had been thought proper to discharge.

On Friday the 4th being off Sheerness, the wind west by north, and a fresh breeze, they took their departure, and continued their voyage without any material occurrence happening till Tuesday the 15th, when the Commodore made the signal to lie to. They were then off Brassey Island, and many fishing-boats from Shetland being in sight, the men were invited on board, and some fish purchased of them at a cheap rate.

On the 17th they took a new departure from Shetland, but the day following the fog thickened so much, that it almost approached to total darkness. During the continuance of the fog, the Commodore kept firing guns and beating drums, to prevent the Carcase from losing company. As it was impossible that one could see the other at a ship’s length, it was found the more necessary to repeat and return the firing, lest they should run foul of each other before they could be apprized of their danger. About five in the morning the mist cleared up, and about nine the Commodore being in sight, made the signal to the Carcase to steer north-east. They were then in latitude 60 degrees 52 minutes north by observation; the north end of Shetland Island bearing north by west one half west, seven or eight leagues.

On the 17th they observed a sail to the north-east, which the Commodore brought to, and spoke with. The breeze fresh, the weather hazy, and the wind variable, the Carcase carried away her main-top-mast studding sail yard; which, however, was very soon supplied. Latitude this day by observation 62 degrees 53 minutes north.

Friday the 18th, being in the latitude of 65 degrees 9 minutes north, the cloathing allowed by the Government, of which notice has already been taken in the Introduction, was delivered out, and officers as well as men received their full proportion. This day the weather continued as before.

Saturday the 19th the weather varied to every point of the compass, the Commodore brought to, and spoke with the Carcase. Made sail about three in the morning, and at nine a large swell. Tacked and stood to the eastward. Latitude 66 degrees 1 minute north; longitude from London 33 minutes west.

Sunday the 20th they pursued their course to the eastward, with the wind north-west, but variable; high breezes and clear air. They were now within the Polar circle, and at midnight had an observation of the sun, and found their latitude 66 degrees 52 minutes north. Sounded on board the Commodore with a lead of one hundred weight, and a line of seven hundred and eighty fathom, to which was fastened a thermometer of Lord George Cavendish’s construction. They found no bottom, but the water was eleven degrees colder at that depth than on the surface. The Carcase sounded with four hundred and fifty fathoms only.

Monday 21, light breezes and cloudy weather. They observed a whale on the north-east quarter, the first they had yet seen in the north seas. The weather now began to set in severe; the nights cold and the days cloudy. The Commodore observing a whaling snow with Hamborough colours flying, fired a shot, and brought her to. She happened to be homeward bound with seals, and Mr. Wyndham, a gentleman of fortune, who had embarked on board the Commodore, with a view to prosecute the voyage, finding nothing but foul weather and heavy seas, to gratify his curiosity, and being withal unable to endure the sea sickness, took passage on board the Hamburgher, in order to return home; and having taken leave of his friends, by wishing them a happy voyage, the Snow’s boat took him on board, about seven in the morning, and at eight the Commodore and Carcase pursued their voyage.

Tuesday 22, the articles of war were read on board the Carcase. The weather began to be piercing cold; they had reached the 70th degree of north latitude, in a course nearly north, being only 14 minutes to the eastward of London; and from their leaving Shetland to this day, they had seen nothing remarkable; nor had any accident befallen either of the ships worth relating, except that of now and then snapping a rope, or breaking a yard; incidents easily repaired. This day it poured with rain; the air was thick, and the rain froze as it fell. Saw a large ship to the north-west, standing southward, but wanting no information that she could give, they pursued their voyage without speaking to her.

Wednesday 23, the rain continued; the weather hazy; heard three guns fire at a distance, but saw no ship or other object. The whales are here in no great plenty, and few ships appear in the open sea in pursuit of them. They generally at this season frequent the bays and creeks near the shore, and only break away when they are pursued or wounded.

On Thursday the 24th, the Commodore changed his course to east north-east; and on the 25th they were in latitude 74 degrees 7 minutes north, and in 8 degrees 32 minutes east longitude from London. Served out to the ship’s company plenty of mustard, pepper, vinegar, &c. The weather extremely cold and variable. At eight in the evening thick fog; at two in the morning fresh breezes; at eight clear weather; at eleven squally; and at noon calm, with sleet and snow.

On Saturday the 26th, at midnight, they had an observation, and found themselves in latitude 74 degrees 17 minutes north; fresh gales, sometimes rain, sleet, and snow; at seven in the morning clear weather and an open sea.

Sunday 27, light airs from the southward, and cloudy weather; much warmer than the preceding day. It is remarkable, that the vicissitudes of heat and cold are more frequent here than in the more southerly latitudes. It often changes from temperate to extreme cold; and that suddenly.

It should seem likewise, that the ice frequently changes its place in this latitude; or that it is more solid near land than in the open sea; for, on the 23d of June 1676, Capt. Wood, being more to the eastward, fell in with ice right a-head, not more than a league distant. He steered along it, thinking it had openings, but found them to be bays. He sounded, and found ground at one hundred and fifty-eight fathom, soft green oar. In some places he found pieces of ice driving off a mile from the main body in strange shapes, resembling ships, trees, buildings, beasts, fishes, and even men. The main body of ice being low and craggy, he could see hills of a blue colour at a distance, and valleys that were white as snow. In some places he observed drift wood among the ice. Some of the ice he melted, and found it fresh and good. This navigator never could advance farther to the north; but in seeking to penetrate the ice was ship-wrecked, as has been already related in the Introduction. He therefore judged the ice impenetrable, and that land or ice surrounded the pole. Our navigators found also much wood in this latitude floating about the ships, and saw great flocks of birds.

Monday 28, the weather altered; the wind west. Fresh breezes, with rain and sleet. Latter part thick fog.

Tuesday 29, being in latitude 78 degrees north, and in longitude 6 degrees 29 minutes east from London, came in sight of land, when the ships brought to, and the Captains held a consultation concerning their future course. The appearance of the land lay from east south-east to north-east; and this day they spoke with the Marquis of Rockingham, Greenlandman, who, by their reckoning, were then in latitude 79 degrees 40 minutes north, though by that of the Commodore, their latitude was only 78 degrees 3 minutes. This difference, it is probable, arises from not making the proper allowance for refraction in this high latitude. The Greenlandman presented each of the Commanders with a deer and a half, which they found well-flavoured venison, though not over fat. He likewise informed, that he had just come from the ice, and that the day before, three whalers had been crushed to pieces by its closing upon them suddenly.

Wednesday 30, pursued their course. Cloudy weather. Half past four in the morning sounded, one hundred and twelve fathoms soft blue mud. At this time Black Point, so called from its dark appearance, bore north-east by east three quarters east, at the distance of seven or eight leagues. At half past seven, in the morning, saw two sail in the north-west quarter. At half past twelve tacked and stood to the east. Sounded, and found ground at one hundred and fifteen fathom.

Thursday July 1, light breezes and clear weather at midnight: the sun as bright as at noon day. Black Point east one half south, distant seven leagues. At three in the morning made Charles’s Island, and at nine saw a sail to the westward whaleing; they were then in latitude 78 degrees 18 minutes north, by observation. Sounded, and found the same depth as before.

Friday 2, light airs and moderate weather. Lay to and took the altitude of a mountain, which they named Mount Parnassus; found it from the level of the sea to be three thousand nine hundred and sixty feet high, covered with snow, and at a distance resembling an ancient building, with something like a turret a-top. The foot of this mountain, with the hills adjoining, have sometimes a very fiery appearance, and the ice and snow on their sides resembling trees and shrubs, glissen with a brilliancy that exceed the splendor of the brightest gems. When this happens, a violent storm generally succeeds. Here they shot some sea fowl, but of an oily taste.

Saturday 3, proved a perfect calm. They spoke with a Hollander, who foretold, that a degree or two farther north was the utmost extent of their progress this season. Having doubled Cape Cold, they anchored in fifteen fathom water, about three miles from the land, and sent the boats ashore for water, which they found in abundance, pouring down in little streams from the rocks. At five in the afternoon, by the mean of four azimuths, the variation was found to be 18 degrees 36 minutes west. Sounded, and found only sixty-five fathoms, soft brown mud. Mount Parnassus east-north-east three or four leagues.⁠—Among other reasons which Capt. Wood gave for wishing to be employed on the discovery of the north-east passage, one was, that he might have an opportunity of approaching the pole, in order to settle an hypothesis, which he had long framed, whereby the inclination of the magnetical needle under the horizon, in all latitudes and in all longitudes, with the variation of the compass, might be exactly determined. This navigator imagined two magnetical poles to exist; and that, by approaching the one, he should be able to determine the action of the other. It does not appear, that he ever explained his hypothesis; and there never has been but one man, whose name was Williams, since his time, who pretended to know any thing of the matter.

Saturday 4, light breezes and hazey weather. Sounded, and only twenty fathoms deep; rocky ground. Hacluit’s Headland, or the northernmost point of Spitsbergen, bearing north by east seven leagues. Many whalers in sight. Latitude by observation 79 degrees 34 minutes north, longitude from London 8 degrees 10 minutes east. Thermometer forty-seven.

Monday 5, at two in the afternoon sounded, and only fifteen fathom water; rocky ground. Thick fog. The Race Horse fired guns as signals to keep company, which were answered by the Carcase. A dreadful crackling was heard at a distance, which proved the dashing and grinding of the loose pieces of ice against each other, which is heard at many leagues distance. Hacluit’s Headland south-east by south, distance six or seven leagues.

Tuesday 6, proved very foggy, the breezes slight, and islands of ice beginning to appear. At three in the afternoon the Commodore hauled up from a large body of packed ice, and the fog thickening, both ships kept firing volleys of small arms, to prevent their losing company. At half past ten in the evening, the extremes of the ice stretching from north-west to east-north-east, the Commodore bore away; and at half past twelve lost sight of it. At half past one in the morning heard a violent surf to the south-east. At two tacked and stood to the westward. At half past five the fog gathering, they began firing volleys of small arms. At six saw the ice stretching from east by south, to north by east; and at seven was within sight of land. At ten Cloven Cliff stood east-south-east, distant about five or six leagues.

Wednesday the 7th, the weather cloudy. They found themselves beset among the loose ice, which increasing continually, gave them incredible trouble. Observing that it thickened to the eastward, they hauled up, and stood to the westward; but in tacking, they were in danger of running foul. It was with difficulty they could keep any course, for the driffs of ice came so thick, as to whirl the ships about, as if in a whirl-pool.

Thursday 8, the weather still remaining cloudy, and the wind variable, both ships still were entangled in the ice; and the Carcase being driven to leeward, hoisted out her long-boat to tow up with the Commodore. But the ice closing very fast, it was impossible for the boats to live. Orders were then given to tack and stand to the southward; but the ships not being able to make head against the accumulation of ice that continually gathered round them, were under a necessity of applying to their ice-anchors and poles, in order to warp through it. At half past eight in the evening, the ice beginning to open, they again hoisted out their boats, and with difficulty towed the ships round a cape of ice projecting from the main body, and at last got clear. At ten the boats were hoisted on board. In extricating themselves from this dangerous situation, the Race Horse had her best bower-anchor snapt in the shank, close to the stock, and the Carcase lost her starboard bumpkin and head-rails.

It frequently happens, that ships beset among the ice in the manner above related, perish by being dashed to pieces against the solid fields of ice, or crushed by the broken pieces crowding upon one another, and rising so fast about the ship, as to exceed the height of her sides, and then there is no escaping. They were told by some experienced seamen, that the ice rises out of the sea as high sometimes as mountains; and that several of these mountains, by striking together and coalescing, form these islands of ice that are frequently seen in the lower latitudes, driving up and down the sea as the wind and tides direct them.

The greatest danger to be apprehended, is, however, from the loose ice; for the whalers often moor their ships to the solid fields of ice, that at certain seasons seem to rest upon the earth, and appear fixed to it, and there find the best fishing. In such situations it often happens, that little or no loose ice is to be seen; yet presently upon a change of wind, or the blowing of a storm, it shall pour in upon them so suddenly, that they sometimes perish in it. It is not possible to account for the astonishing quantity that will gather in this manner in less than an hour’s time.

Though it seems to be agreed, that many of the largest fields of ice are frozen to the depth of the sea in which they are found, and that they are bedded on the solid earth, yet it is equally certain, that they are often rent asunder by the raging billows; and that in breaking, they produce the most terrifying noise in nature; nay, it is asserted, that the clashing of the pieces of loose ice against each other, on any extraordinary agitation of the waves, is attended with a roaring so loud, that a man who is near it can hardly hear the sound of his own voice.

Friday the 9th, they hauled up to the westward, and lost sight one of the other; but about nine next morning they came in sight, and joined company. The weather being now piercing cold, the people had an additional quantity of porter and brandy delivered to them; two quarts of porter and a pint of brandy being now every man’s daily allowance.

Saturday July the 10th, the breeze fresh, and the weather cloudy. They sailed between numberless pieces of ice, among which they saw several whales, but none of the whalers in pursuit of them. The ice now becoming solid and compact, they found it impracticable to continue their course. And the discovery of a passage to the pole in that direction (upon holding a consultation) appearing impracticable to every officer on board of both ships, the Commodore, at seven in the evening, hauled close to the wind; and the Carcase, as soon as she could extricate herself, followed his example. The weather continuing foggy, with rain and snow, the sailors were almost worn out with turning and winding; and although they used the utmost precaution in working through the narrows, yet they could not always avoid striking against the mountains that every where surrounded them. During this night’s work, they steered a hundred different courses, to follow the channels.

Sunday 11, having worked out of the ice, they sailed along the main body, which appeared perfectly solid and compact, without any passage or inlet. This immense mass of ice extended north-east, as far as they could see from the mast-head; and, no doubt, might be a continuation of that in which they were engaged a few days before. The sea was now tolerably clear, for they met with no more fields, and only a few detached islands. At half past one in the morning they saw the land from south by west, to south-south-east. At three in the morning they tacked; Cloven Cliff bearing south-south-east six miles. At seven tacked again. At eight the Commodore bore away, and the Carcase stood after him. Cloven Cliff south one half west, two or three leagues, latitude 79 degrees 56 minutes north.

Monday 12, at eight in the evening Cloven Cliff bearing west-south-west four or five miles, they sounded in fifteen fathoms water, and found a rocky bottom. Saw several English and Dutch Greenlanders at anchor in the Norways: That being their rendezvous to the northward, they never chuse to proceed farther. Here they found the current setting so fast to eastward, that they were forced to come to an anchor to keep from drifting on the ice; the swell from westward being so great, that had that happened, it would of consequence have staved the ships. At five in the morning a breeze from north-north-east springing up, they weighed, and made sail. At eight Hacluit’s Headland west-south-west one half west, six or seven leagues, at noon latitude 80 degrees 2 minutes north.

Tuesday 13, the weather being clear and calm, and a strong easterly current setting in, at eight in the evening they came to with their stream anchors and hausers in forty fathoms water but at nine a breeze springing up from the eastward, they weighed, and next day came to an anchor in Smearingburgh Harbour. Cloven Cliff east one half south one mile. West point of Voogle land north-north-west one half west, distant one mile and a half; soundings fifteen fathom sandy bottom.

Here they remained between five and six days to take in fresh water, during which time our journalist was employed in surveying the country, which to a stranger had a very awful and romantic appearance.

The country is stoney, and as far as can be seen full of mountains, precipices and rocks. Between these are hills of ice, generated, as it should seem, by the torrents that flow from the melting of the snow on the sides of those towering elevations, which being once congealed, are continually increased by the snow in winter, and the rain in summer, which often freezes as soon as it falls. By looking on these hills, a stranger may fancy a thousand different shapes of trees, castles, churches, ruins, ships, whales, monsters, and all the various forms that fill the universe. Of the ice-hills there are seven, that more particularly attract the notice of a stranger. These are known by the name of the seven iceburgs, and are thought to be the highest of the kind in that country. When the air is clear, and the sun shines full upon these mountains, the prospect is inconceivably brilliant. They sometimes put on the bright glow of the evening rays of the setting sun, when reflected upon glass, at his going down; sometimes they appear of a bright blue, like sapphire, and sometimes like the variable colours of a prism, exceeding in lustre the richest gems in the world, disposed in shapes wonderful to behold, all glittering with a lustre that dazzles the eye, and fills the air with astonishing brightness.

Smearingburgh harbour, where they landed, was first discovered by the Dutch. Here they erected sheds and conveniences for boiling the oil from the fat of the whales, instead of barrelling it up to be boiled at home. Here also, allured by the hope of gain, they built a village, and endeavoured to fix a colony: but the first settlers all perished in the ensuing winter. The remains of the village may be traced to this day; and their stoves, kettles, kardels, troughs, ovens, and other implements, remained in the shape of solid ice long after the utensils themselves were decayed. Our voyagers were told, that the Russians have lately attempted the same thing, and that ten out of fifteen perished last winter in this second attempt.

Where every object is new, it is not easy for a stranger to fix which first to admire. The rocks are striking objects: before a storm they exhibit a fiery appearance, and the sun looks pale upon them, the snow giving the air a bright reflection. Their summits are almost always involved in clouds, so that it is but just possible to see the tops of them. Some of these rocks are but one stone from bottom to top, appearing like an old decayed ruin. Others consist of huge masses, veined differently, like marble, with red, white, and yellow, and probably, were they to be sawed and polished, would equal, if not excel, the finest Egyptian marble we now so much admire. Perhaps the distance and danger of carrying large blocks of stones, may be the reason that no trials have been made to manufacture them. On the southerly and westerly sides of these rocks grow all the plants, herbs, and mosses peculiar to this country; on the northerly and easterly sides the wind strikes so cold when it blows from these quarters, that it perishes every kind of vegetable. These plants grow to perfection in a very short time. Till the middle of May the whole country is locked up in ice; about the beginning of July the plants are in flower, and about the latter end of the same month, or beginning of August, they have perfected their seed. The earth owes its fertility, in a great measure, to the dung of birds, who build and breed their young here in the summer, and in the winter repair to more favourable climates.

The plants that are most common in Spitsbergen are scurvy-grass and crows-foot; there are besides small house-leak, and a plant with aloe-leaves; an herb like stone-crop; some small snake-weed; mouse-ear; wood-strawbery; periwinkle; and a herb peculiar to the country which they call the rock-plant. The leaves of this plant are in shape like a man’s tongue, above six feet long, of a dull yellow colour. The stalk is round and smooth, and of the same colour with the leaf; it rises tapering, and smells like muscles. It is an aquatic, and rises in height in proportion to the depth of water in which it is found. There are other plants and herbs, but these are the chief. Of flowers, the white poppy seems the principal.

The rocks and precipices are full of fissures and clefts, which afford convenient harbour for birds to lay their eggs, and breed their young in safety. Most of these birds are water-fowl, and seek their food in the sea. Some, indeed, are birds of prey; and pursue and kill others for their own sustenance, but these are rare. The water-fowl eat strong and fishy, and their fat is not to be endured. They are so numerous about the rocks, as sometimes to darken the air when they rise in flocks; and they scream so horribly, that the rocks ring with their noise.

There are a few small birds like our snipes, and a kind of snow-bird, but different from that found about Hudson’s bay. The gentlemen shot some of the water-fowl, but they were strong and ill-tasted.

The ice-bird is a very beautiful little bird, but very rare. He is in size and shape like a turtle-dove, but his plumage, when the sun shines upon him, is of a bright yellow, like the golden ring in the peacock’s tail, and almost dazzles the eye to look upon it.

The other inhabitants of this forlorn country are white bears, deer, and foxes. How these creatures can subsist in the winter, when the whole earth is covered with snow, and the sea locked up in ice, is hardly to be conceived. It has been said, indeed, that when the ocean is all frozen over, and no sustenance to be procured in this country, they travel southerly to the warmer climates, where food proper for them abounds in the immense forests of the northern continent. But whoever considers the vast distance between Spitsbergen and the nearest parts of the northern continent, will be as much at a loss to account for the subsistence of these creatures in their journey, as in the desolate region where they undoubtedly remain. The bear is by far the best accommodated to the climate of which he is an inhabitant. He is equally at home on land and water, and hunts diligently for his prey in both. In summer he finds plenty of food from the refuse of the whales, sea-horses and seals, which is thrown into the sea by the whalers, and cover the shores during the time of whaling; and they have besides a wonderful sagacity in smelling out the carcases of the dead, let them be ever so deeply buried in the earth, or covered with stones. The dead therefore that annually are buried here may contribute, in some degree, to the subsistence of a few of these creatures in winter; but the question will still recur, how the race of them subsisted before the whale-fishery had existence, and before men found the way to this inhospitable shore. Disquisitions of this kind, as they are beyond the reach of human comprehension, serve only to raise our admiration of that omnipotent Being to whom nothing is impossible.

These creatures, as they differ in nothing but their colour and size from those commonly shewn in England, need no description.

The foxes differ little in shape from those we are acquainted with, but in colour there is no similitude. Their heads are black, and their bodies white. As they are beasts of prey, if they do not provide in summer for the long recess of winter, it were, one would think, almost impossible for them to survive; yet they are seen in plenty, though, by their subtlety and swiftness, they are not easy to be catched.

The Dutch seamen report, that when they are hungry they will feign themselves dead, and when the ravenous birds come to feed upon them, they rise and make them their prey.

But the most wonderful thing of all is, how the deer can survive an eight months famine. Like ours they feed upon nothing that can be perceived, but the vegetables which the earth spontaneously produces; and yet for eight months in the year, the earth produces neither plant, herb, shrub, or blade of any kind of grass whatever. They are, besides, but thinly cloathed for so severe a climate, and what seems still worse, there is not a bush to be seen to shelter them, within the distance that any man has yet discovered. The means of their subsistence must therefore remain among the secrets of nature, never to be disclosed, as no human being can ever live here, so as to be able to trace these creatures to their winter’s residence.

Amphibious creatures abound the most about the sounds and bays of Spitsbergen, and they seem best adapted to endure the climate. These are the seals, or sea dogs, and morses, or sea horses; of which the whalers avail themselves, when disappointed in compleating their lading with the fat of whales.

The seal is sufficiently known; but the sea-horse, as it is a creature peculiar to high latitudes, is therefore more rare. It is not easy to say how he came by his name; for there is no more likeness between a sea-horse and a land-horse, than there is between a whale and an elephant. The sea-horse is not unlike the seal in shape. He has a large round head, larger than that of a bull, but shaped more like that of a pug-dog without ears, than any other animal we are acquainted with. He tapers all the way down to the tail, like the fish we call a lump, and his size is equal to that of the largest sized ox. His tusks close over his under jaw, like those of a very old boar, and are in length from one foot to two or more, in proportion to the size and age of the animal that breeds them. His skin is thicker than that of a bull, and covered with short mouse-coloured hair, which is sleeker and thicker, just as he happens to be in or out of season when he is caught. His paws, before and behind, are like those of a mole, and serve him for oars when he swims, and for legs to crawl when he goes upon the ice, or on shore. He is a fierce animal, but being unweildy when on land, or on the ice, is easily overcome.

These animals are always found in herds, sometimes of many hundreds together, and if one is attacked, the rest make a common cause, and stand by one another till the last gasp. If they are attacked in the water, they will fight desperately, and will even attempt the boats of their pursuers, if any of them are wounded, and not mortally. Some of them have been known to make holes in the bottom of the boat with their tusks, in defence of their young. Their eyes are large, and they have two holes in the upper part of the neck, out of which they eject the water, in like manner as it is ejected by whales.

Though the sea about Spitsbergen is full of fish, yet they rather appear to be designed by Providence for the sustenance of one another, than for the food of man. The mackarel, of which there are no great plenty, seem not only to be the most wholesome, and the most palatable, but also the most beautiful. They seem to be a different species to those caught upon our coasts. The upper part of the back is of a vivid blue; the other part as low as the belly of a gem-like green on an azure ground. Underneath the belly the colour is a transparent white, and the fins shine like polished silver. All the colours glow when alive in the sea with such a richness, that fancy can hardly form to itself any thing in nature more beautiful. Almost all the other fish on this coast are of an oily nature, and of a very indifferent flavour.

The saw, or sword fish, is remarkable not only for the oddity of his shape, but also for his enmity to the whale. This fish takes his name from a broad flat bone, in length from two to four feet, which projects from his nose, and tapers to a point. On each side, it has teeth like a comb, at the distance of a finger’s breadth asunder. He is also furnished with a double row of fins, and is of astonishing strength in the water. His length from ten to twenty feet. He seems to be formed for war, and war is his profession. The conflict betwixt him and the whale is dreadful, yet he never gives over till his sword is broken, or he comes off victorious.

The whale is a harmless fish, and is never known to fight but in his own defence. Yet when he is exasperated, he rages dreadfully. Though from his magnitude, he may be called the sovereign of the seas; yet, like other sovereigns, he is liable to be vexed and hurt by the meanest reptiles. The whale’s louse is a most tormenting little animal. Its scales are as hard as those of our prawns; its head is like the louse’s head, with four horns, two that serve as feelers, the other two are hard, and curved, and serve as clenchers to fix him to the whale. On his chest, underneath, he has two carvers, like scythes, with which he collects his food, and behind these are four feet, that serve him for oars. He has, moreover, six other clenchers behind, with which he can rivet himself so closely to his prey, that he can no otherwise be disengaged, but by cutting out the whole piece to which he is joined. He is jointed on the back like the tail of a lobster, and his tail covers him like a shield when he is feeding. He fixes himself on the tenderest parts of the whale’s body, between his fins, on his sheath, and on his lips, and eats pieces out of his flesh, as if eaten by vultures.

They found no springs of fresh-water in Spitsbergen; but in the valleys, between the mountains, are many little rills caused by the rain and melting of the snow in summer; and from these rills the ships are supplied. Some are of opinion, that this water is unwholesome, but they are more nice than wise. The whaling people have drank of it for ages, and have found no ill effects from the use of it. Ice taken up in the middle of these seas and thawed, yields also good fresh water.

On board the Race Horse, Dr. Irvine, the gentleman who received the premium by a grant of parliament, for his discovery of an easy process for making salt-water fresh at sea, tried many experiments at Spitsbergen, and in the course of the voyage; the result of which will appear at a proper time. That gentleman had formed a project for preserving flesh meat fresh and sweet in long voyages, but it did not answer in this.

In calm weather they remarked, that the sea about the islands appeared uncommonly still and smooth; that it was not suddenly moved at the first approach of blowing weather; but that when the storm continued, the waves swelled gradually, and rose to an incredible height.⁠—These swelling waves successively follow one another, and roll along before the wind, foaming and raging in a frightful manner, yet they are thought less dangerous than those that break short, and are less mountainous.

They observed likewise, that the ice that rested on the ground was not stationary, but that it changed place; and they learnt also, that in some seasons there was no ice, where this season they were in danger of being embayed. There does not, however, from thence appear the least reason to conclude, that any practicable passage to the Indian ocean can ever be found in this direction; for were it certain that the seas were always open under the pole, yet great bulwarks of ice evidently surround it, sometimes at a less, and sometimes at a greater distance. Moreover, were it possible that chance should direct some fortunate adventurer to an opening at one time, it would be more than a million to one, if the same opening were passable to the next who should attempt it.

There are many harbours about Spitsbergen, besides that of Smearingburg, where ships employed in the whale fishery take shelter in stormy weather; and there are some islands, such as Charles’s Island, the Clifted Rock, Red-Hill, Hacluit’s Headland, &c. that serve as landmarks, by which seamen direct their course. These islands are full of the nests of birds; but their eggs are as nauseous as the flesh of the fowls that lay them. The sailors sometimes eat them, but they are filthy food. Even the geese and ducks on the neighbouring islands eat fishy and strong.

The air about Spitsbergen is never free from icicles. If you look through the sun-beams transversely as you sit in the shade, or where you see the rays confined in a body, instead of dark motes, as are seen here, you see myriads of shining particles that sparkle like diamonds; and when the sun shines hot, as it sometimes does, so as to melt the tar in the seams of ships when they lie sheltered from the wind, these shining atoms seem to melt away, and descend like dew.

It is seldom that the air continues clear for many days together in this climate; when that happens, the whalers are generally successful. There is no difference between night and day in the appearance of the atmosphere about Spitsbergen, one being as light as the other, only when the sun is to the northward, you may look at him with the naked eye, as at the moon, without dazzling. The fogs here come on so suddenly, that from bright sun-shine, you are presently involved in such obscurity, that you can hardly see from one end of the ship to the other.

While our journalist was busy in making his observations, all belonging to the ships were differently engaged in one employment or other; some in taking in water, some in fishing, some in hunting, some in handing the sails, and spreading them out to dry, some in scrubbing the ship, and some in viewing the country. The Commanders and officers, with Mr. Lyon, Mr. Robinson, &c. busied themselves in making observations, being furnished with an apparatus, that is said to have cost at least one thousand five hundred pounds. From such a set of instruments, in the hands of the ablest observers, the nation can boast, some very considerable discoveries in the phenomena of the polar regions may be expected. They landed their instruments in a small island, in Vogle Sound, and had several opportunities during their stay of using them to advantage. Having erected two tents, the Captains from the fishery frequently visited the observers, and expressed their admiration not only at the perfection of the instruments, but likewise at the dexterity with which they were accommodated.

The ice began to set in a-pace, yet the weather was hot. The thermometer from fifty-six in the cabin rose to ninety in the open air. It was still ten degrees higher on the top of a mountain to which it was carried. The island on which the experiments were made, they called Marble Island, from the rock by which it is formed. Having watered, and finished their observations, the ships prepared to depart.

Monday July the 19th, the Commodore made the signal to weigh; at two in the afternoon the ships were under sail, and as soon as they had made their offing, stood to the eastward. At three they tacked and steered northward; and before four were again entangled among the loose ice, through which they sailed, directing their course along the main body, which lay from north-west to south-south-east.

Tuesday the 20th, they continued their course along the ice, but could discover no opening, though they searched every creek, and left no bay or turning unexamined. This day they observed what the sailors call a mock-sun, a phænomenon well enough known in this climate. Hacluit’s Headland bore south-west one half south forty-six leagues; the weather cloudy, with rain; excessive cold. Thermometer 37 degrees 46 minutes.

Wednesday the 21st, the severity of the weather increasing, an additional quantity of brandy was served out to the people, and every comfortable refreshment afforded them, that they themselves could wish or require. The course of the ice lay this day north-east.

Thursday 22, nothing remarkable.

Friday the 23d, they saw land from east by south, to south-east by south. At four in the morning, Hacluit’s Headland bore south-east ten leagues; the wind variable, and the weather cold, with sleet and snow. Thermometer 40 degrees.

Sunday 25, they had gentle breezes, with cloudy weather, and were engaged among some pieces of ice, separated from the main body, which kept them continually tacking and luffing. At length they entered among mountains and islands of ice, which came upon them so fast, that it was with the utmost difficulty they could proceed; the Carcase having several times struck against them with such violence, as to raise her head four feet out of the water. They now imagined, from the solidity and extent of these islands, that the late strong gales had caused a separation from the main body, the Commodore therefore changed his course with a strong gale to the eastward; in the morning the weather became moderate.

Monday 26, at seven in the morning, they came in sight of Red-hill, a small mount which commands an open plain, known by the name of Deers-field, by reason of its fertile appearance, it being the only spot on which they saw no drifts of snow. To the eastward lies Muffin’s Island. Here they sounded, and found forty-five fathom water; rocky ground. Capt. Lutwich sent out the long-boat, with orders to sound along the shore, and to examine the soil. This island is about a mile long, very low, and looks at a distance like a black speck. Though the soil is mostly sand and loose stones, and hardly so much as a green weed upon it, yet it is remarkable for the number of birds that resort to it in summer to lay their eggs, and breed their young; and these not of one kind only, but of many different sorts, as geese, ducks, burgomasters, ice-birds, malamucks, kirmews, rotgers, and almost every other species of birds peculiar to the climate; insomuch, that the eggs were so numerous, and lay so thick upon the ground, that the men who landed found it difficult to walk without filling their shoes.

While the crew of the boat, ten in number, with their valiant officer at their head, were examining the island, after having sounded the shores, they observed two white bears making towards them, one upon the ice, the other in the water. Major Buz, for that was their officer’s travelling title, like Falstaff, was always the boldest man in company over a cup of sack, and minded killing a bear no more than killing a gnat; but seeing the bears approach very fast, especially that which came in the water, he ordered his men to fire while yet the enemy was at a distance, as he did not think it prudent to hazard the lives of his little company in close fight. All of them pointed their muskets, and some of the party obeyed orders; but the greater part judging it safer to depend upon a reserved fire, when they had seemingly discharged their pieces, pretended to retreat. The Major, a full fathom in the belly, endeavoured to waddle after his companions; but being soon out of breath, and seeing the bear that came in the water had just reached the shore, thought of nothing now but falling the first sacrifice. His hair already stood an end; and looking behind him, he saw the bear at no great distance, with his nose in the air snuffing the scent. He had all the reason in the world to believe it was him that he scented, and he had scarce breath enough left to call to his men to halt. In this critical situation he unfortunately dropt his gun, and in stooping to recover it stumbled against a goose-nest, fell squash upon his belly into it, and had very nigh smothered the dam upon her eggs. The old saying is, misfortunes seldom come alone. Before he could well rise, the enraged gander came flying to the assistance of his half-smothered consort, and making a dart at the eye of the assailant, very narrowly missed his mark, but discharged his fury plump upon his nose. The danger now being pressing, and the battle serious, the bear near, and the gander ready for a second attack, the men, who had not fled far, thought it high time to return to the relief of their leader. Overjoyed to see them about him, but frighted at the bear just behind him, he had forgot the gander that was over his head, against which one of the men having levelled his piece, fired and he fell dead at the Major’s feet. Animated now by the death of one enemy, he recovered his gun, and faced about to assist in the attack of the second. By this time the bear was scarce ten yards from him, and beginning to growl, the Major just in the instant was seized with a looseness, dropt his accoutrements, and fell back, that he might not be in the way of his party, to impede the engagement. In the hurry he was in, for in a man of such valour we must not say the fright, he entangled his buttons, and not being able to hold any longer, he filled his breeches. The crew in an instant had brought down the bear, and now it was time for their leader to do something great. Having recovered his arms, and seeing the poor beast groveling on the ground, and growling out his last, like a ram in a pinfold, making a short race backwards in order to redouble his force, he came with nine long strides forwards, and with the strength and fierceness of an enraged bull, thrust his lance full four feet deep in the dying bear’s belly. And now, says the Major, cocking his hat, have not I done for the bear bravely! The sailors, who are always in a good humour upon such occasions; but Captain, said they, you have but half done your work, you have another bear to kill yet. The Major, whose situation began to be troublesome, content with the honour he had already acquired, my lads, said he, as I have been the death of one bear, sure six of you may kill the other; so ordering four of them to row him on board, he left the remaining six to kill the other bear.

On this island two bears were killed, and a sea-horse. The sea-horse made a desperate defence, being attacked in the water; and had there been only one boat engaged in the combat, he certainly would have come off victorious; but the crew of the Race-horse having learnt that there were bears and sea-horses on this little spot, were willing to share in the sport of hunting them, as well as in the pleasure of tasting their flesh. They accordingly landed in their boats, and came in good time to assist in pursuing the conquest. It happened, however, that their ammunition, being almost spent, one great bear came up to revenge the death of his fellows, and advanced so furiously, growling and barking, that he put the whole company to flight, and some of them, it is said, had no great reason to laugh at the Major.

On sounding the shores they remarked, that when the north islands bear north forty-five east, seven or eight leagues, and Red-hill east by south five miles, there is generally from twenty-five to thirty fathom hard ground; but that closer on shore, when Red-hill bears east one-fourth south about one mile, it increases to one hundred and fifteen fathom, with soft black mud. The current about one mile an hour to the north-east.

Tuesday 27, the air being perfectly serene, and the weather moderate, the fishes seemed to enjoy the temperature, and to express it by their sporting. The whales were seen spouting their fountains towards the skies, and the fin fish following their example. They likewise this day saw dolphins; the whole prospect in short was more pleasing and picturesque than they had yet beheld in this remote region. The very ice in which they were beset looked beautiful, and put forth a thousand glittering forms, and the tops of the mountains, which they could see like sparkling gems at a vast distance, had the appearance of so many silver stars illuminating a new firmament. But this flattering prospect did not continue long. By an accurate observation, they were now in latitude 80 deg. 47 min. north; and in longitude 21 deg. 10 min. east from London; and in sight of seven islands to the north, to which they directed their course.

Wednesday 28, they had fresh easterly breezes, which, from moderate weather the day before, changed to piercing cold. At midnight the west end of Weygate straits bore south by east, so that they were now in the very spot where Barentz had supposed an opening would be found into the polar sea. Yet so far from it, they could discover nothing from the mast-head, but a continued continent of solid ice, except the islands already mentioned. On this ice, however, there were many bears, some of which came so near the ships as to be shot dead with small arms. These bears are very good eating, and where no better is to be purchased, the whalers account them as good as beef. They are many of them larger than the largest oxen, and weigh heavier. In many parts of their body they are musket proof, and unless they are hit on the open chest, or on the flank, a blow with a musket ball will hardly make them turn their backs. Some of the bears killed in these encounters weighed from seven to eight hundred weight; and it was thought, that the bear that routed the sailors on Muffin’s Island, could not weigh less than a thousand weight. He was, indeed, a very monster!

Thursday 29, sailing among innumerable islands of ice, they found the main body too solid for the ships to make the least impression upon it, and finding no opening, the Commodore resolved to send a party under the command of the first Lieutenant to examine the land, which at a distance appeared like a plain, diversified with hills and mountains, and exhibited in their situation a tolerable landskip.

On trying the water, it was less salt than any sea water they had ever tasted and they found likewise, that the ice was no other than a body of congealed fresh water, which they imagined had been frozen in the infancy of the earth.

Tuesday 30, the weather being clear, they ran close to the main body of the ice, and the sun continuing to shine, made them almost forget the climate they were sailing in, but it was not long before they had reason for severe recollection. In coasting along, they observed many openings, and were in hopes, from their distant appearance, that a passage might be made between them; but, upon trial it was found, as the Dutch fishermen had foretold, that these appearances were deceitful. At one in the morning fine clear sun-shine, they sounded in sixteen fathom water, and found small stones at bottom. They were then about four miles from the north-east part of the northernmost land; the easternmost land in sight, distant about five or six leagues.

Saturday 31, at midnight, the easternmost land in sight lay east-north-east one half east, which they could not make out to be an island. They rather judged it to be a continent, but found it impossible to determine with certainty, as it lay beyond their reach. At nine in the morning the Carcase hoisted out her cutter, and filled her empty water-casks with water from the ice. On this ice lie great quantities of snow, and as soon as a pit is dug, it fills with fine soft clear water, not inferior to that of many land springs. At noon they sounded in ninety five fathoms, the ground soft mud. This day a bear came over the ice to visit them, the first they had seen since they left Muffin’s Island. They saluted him with a volley of small arms, and he returned the compliment, by turning his back upon them. Their longitude was this day 21 degrees 26 minutes east, by time-keeper. Thermometer forty-five.

Sunday August 1, proved a day of trial. Lying too among the close ice, with the loose ice driving fast to shore, the Commodore was desirous of surveying the westernmost of the seven islands, which appeared the highest, in order to judge, from the prospect on the hills, of the possibility of proceeding farther on the discovery. With this view they carried out their ice-anchors, and made both ships fast to the main body, a practice very common with the fishing ships that annually frequent those seas. Of the reconnoitring party, were the Captains, the second Lieutenants, one of the mathematicians, the pilots, and some chosen sailors, selected from both ships. They set out about two in the morning, and sometimes sailing, sometimes drawing their boats over the ice, they with difficulty reached the shore, where the first objects they saw were a herd of deer, so very tame, that they seemed as curious to gaze at the strangers, as the strangers were pleased to see them; for they came five or six together so near, that they might have been killed with the thrust of a bayonet; a proof that animals are not naturally afraid of man, till, by the fate of their associates, they are taught the danger of approaching them; a proof too, that animals are not destitute of reflection, otherwise how should they conclude, that what has befallen their fellow animals, will certainly happen to them, if they run the like risque. The gentlemen, however, suffered only one of these fearless innocents to be fired at, and that was done by a sailor when they were absent on observation.

On this island they gathered some scurvy-grass, and in many places they could perceive the sides of the hills covered with the verdure on which these deer undoubtedly fed.

After having ascended the highest hills on the sea-coast, and taken a view of the country and the ocean all round, the gentlemen descended, and about five in the afternoon embarked again on their return to the ships, at which they arrived safe about ten, after an absence of twenty hours. They were greatly disappointed by the haziness of the weather on the tops of the mountains, which confined the prospect, and prevented their taking an observation with the instruments they had carried with them for that purpose.

There is here a small variation in the journals of the two ships; that kept on board the Commodore making the distance between the island and the ships near twenty miles; the other only five leagues, which might easily happen, as the ships shifted their stations with the main body of ice, sometimes driving north-west, sometimes the contrary course, as the wind and tides happened to sit.

Their situation now began to be serious, and it was discovered too late, that by grappling to the ice, as practised by the Greenlandmen, they had endangered the loss of the ships, the loose ice closing so fast about them, that they found it absolutely impossible to get them disengaged; and there was, besides, great reason to fear, that one or both would soon be crushed to pieces. Great minds are ever most distinguished by their expedients on the most alarming occasions. The Commodore set all hands to work to form a dock in the solid ice, large enough to moor both ships; and by the alacrity with which that service was performed, the ships were preserved from the danger of immediate destruction.

The ships being thus far secured, the officers, pilots, and masters, were all summoned on board the Commodore, to consult on what further was to be done in their present unpromising situation; when it was unanimously agreed, that their deliverance was hopeless; and that they must either provide to winter upon the adjacent islands, or attempt to launch their boats into the open sea, which was already at a considerable distance; for the loose ice had poured into the bay in which they were at anchor with so much rapidity, and in such astonishing quantities, that the open sea was already far out of sight. Before any thing farther was undertaken, the men were ordered to their quarters, that they might refresh themselves with sleep.

While their Commanders preserve their fortitude, the sailors never lose their courage. They rose in the morning with as much alacrity and unconcern, as if they had been sailing with a fine breeze in the British Channel.

August 2, it was now thought adviseable to make one desperate attempt to extricate the ships, by cutting a channel to the westward into the open sea. The scooping out the dock with so much expedition, by a party only of one ship, raised high expectations of what might be performed by the united labours of both the crews. No body of men ever undertook a work of such difficulty with so much chearfulness and confidence of success, as the sailors observed on this occasion. Their ice-saws, axes, sledges, poles, and the whole group of sea-tools, were in an instant all employed in facilitating the work; but after cutting through blocks of solid ice from eight to fifteen feet deep, and coming to others of many fathoms, that exceeded the powers of man to separate, that was laid aside as a hopeless project; and another more promising, though not less laborious, adopted in its room.

On the 3d of August, after the men had again refreshed themselves with sleep, it was resolved to fit up the boats belonging to both the ships with such coverings as were most easy to be accommodated, and of lightest conveyance; and by skating them over the ice, endeavour to launch them in the open sea. Could this be effected, they hoped, that by sailing and rowing to the northernmost harbour of Spitsbergen, they might arrive at that island, before the departure of the last ships belonging to the fishery for Europe.

While the boats were getting ready for this expedition, a second party were dispatched to the island, with orders to take the distance as exact as it was possible to the nearest open sea. As all the people belonging to the ships were not to be engaged in these services, those who were unemployed diverted themselves in hunting and killing the bears, that now, attracted perhaps by the savory smell of the provisions dressed on board the ships, came every day over the ice to repeat their visits. Several of these were killed occasionally, and this day they fought a sea-horse, in which engagement the second Lieutenant of the Carcase signalized his courage in a most desperate rencounter, in which, however, he succeeded, though his life was in imminent danger.

On the 4th the carpenters, &c. were still employed in fitting up the boats. The pilots, who the day before had been sent to make observations on the islands already mentioned, made their report, that the nearest water they had seen was about ten leagues to the westward; that in their passage they had met with great numbers of spars or pine trees, floating about the island, some of them of considerable size, with the bark rotted off, and the bodies much worm-eaten; that there was neither tree nor shrub to be seen growing on any of the seven islands, nor upon any land that they had yet discovered in that latitude, nor for ten degrees farther south, and that the trees they had seen must therefore have come from a great distance.

Though there is nothing now in this observation, the like being annually observed by all the navigators who frequent those seas in the summer, and who collect their wood from those drifts, yet the country from whence they proceed has hitherto been thought a mystery. But it being now certain, that many of the great rivers that flow through the northernmost parts of Russia, empty themselves into this sea; and that there is an open communication throughout the different parts of it at different seasons of the year, there seems very little reason to doubt, but that those trees are torn up by land floods, and are precipitated into the sea by the rapidity of the streams.

It has indeed been objected, that all the wood that is found floating in this manner about the islands in high latitudes, is to a piece barked and worm-eaten; and that if these trees were torn up and precipitated into the sea in the manner above supposed, some of it would appear sound and unbarked, as in its first state. To this it may be answered, that were the course of the tides to run as constantly to the northward, as the course of the rivers runs into the sea, this objection would be unanswerable. But the very reverse is known to be the fact; and that neither the winds nor the tides tend to the northwards for any considerable part of the year; so that from the time these trees enter the ocean, it must, in the ordinary course of things, be many ages before they can reach the latitudes in which they are now found. Because, if they are driven northwards by the strength of a storm from the south, they will be driven in another direction by the next storm that happens from another quarter; and all the while the calm continues, they will be driven to and fro by the tides, which, as has been observed, seldom set long to the north, therefore, being in continual motion for ages, or being cast upon the shore by tempests, or high tides, and lying there exposed to the air, till tempests or high tides return them again to the ocean, they will, in a long progression of time, be reduced to the state in which they are constantly found. This solution is, however, offered with diffidence. The fact is certain, of much wood being annually found about the islands in question; and it is now of little importance from whence it proceeds, as a passage by the north east to China will probably never more be sought.

On the 5th they had gentle breezes; but about four in the morning small sleet. The ice still surrounding them, and appearing to grow more and more solid and fixed, those who had till now retained hopes that the south-east wind would again disunite its substance, and open a passage for their deliverance, began to despair, as the wind had blown for twenty-four hours from that quarter, from which alone they could have relief, and not the least alteration to be perceived. The men, however, were as joyous as ever, and shewed not the least concern about the danger of their situation.

Early in the morning, the man at the mast-head of the Carcase gave notice, that three bears were making their way very fast over the ice, and that they were directing their course towards the ship. They had, without question, been invited by the scent of the blubber of the sea-horse killed a few days before, which the men had let on fire, and which was burning on the ice at the time of their approach. They proved to be a she-bear and her two cubbs; but the cubbs were nearly as large as the dam. They ran eagerly to the fire, and drew out from the flames part of the flesh of the sea-horse that remained unconsumed, and eat it voraciously. The crew from the ship, by way of diversion, threw great lumps of the flesh of the sea-horse which they had still left, out upon the ice, which the old bear fetched away singly, laid each lump before her cubbs as she brought it, and dividing it, gave each a share, reserving but a small portion to herself. As she was fetching away the last piece they had to bestow, they levelled their muskets at the cubbs, and shot them both dead; and in her retreat, they also wounded the dam, but not mortally. It would have drawn tears of pity from any but unfeeling minds, to have marked the affectionate concern expressed by this poor beast, in the dying moments of her expiring young. Tho’ she was sorely wounded, and could but just crawl to the place where they lay, she carried the lump of flesh she had fetched away, as she had done the others before, tore it in pieces, and laid it down before them, and when she saw that they refused to eat, she laid her paws first upon one, and then upon the other, and endeavoured to raise them up. All this while it was pitiful to hear her moan. When she found she could not stir them, she went off, and when she had got at some distance, looked back and moaned; and that not availing her to entice them away, she returned, and smelling round them, began to lick their wounds. She went off a second time, as before, and having crawled a few paces, looked again behind her, and for some time stood moaning. But still her cubbs not rising to follow her, she returned to them again, and with signs of inexpressible fondness, went round one and round the other, pawing them, and moaning. Finding at last that they were cold and lifeless, she raised her head towards the ship, and, like Caliban in the tempest, growled a curse upon the murderers, which they returned with a volley of musket-balls. She fell between her cubbs, and died licking their wounds. If what is related by a voyager of credit in the last century be true, the filial fondness of these animals is no less remarkable than the maternal. The young ones, says he, keep constantly close to the old ones. We observed that two young ones and an old one would not leave one another, for if one ran away, it turned back again immediately, as soon as it did hear the others in danger, as if it would come to help them. The old one ran to the young one, and the young one to the old one; and rather than they would leave one another, they would suffer themselves to be all killed.

Friday the 6th, the weather calm, but foggy, and the winds variable; they discovered that the drift of the ship, with the whole body of ice, inclined fast to the eastward; and that they were already embayed in the very middle of the seven islands. They therefore sent off the pilots of both ships, with a party of sailors, to the northernmost island, to see what discoveries could be made from the promontories there. They returned at night, after a fatiguing journey, with a dismal account, that nothing was to be seen from thence but a vast continent of ice, of which there was no end; and that the thought of wintering in such a situation was more dreadful, than that of perishing by instant death.

Saturday 7, the wind set in north-north-east, veered to the north; to the north-east and east, piercing cold. This day the boats were all brought in readiness on the ice, fitted with weather cloaths about thirteen inches above the gunnels, in order to keep off the cold as much as possible, if by good fortune they should be enabled to launch them in an open sea. This day was employed chiefly in boiling provisions to put in the boats for the intended voyage; in delivering out bags to the men to carry their bread, and in packing up such necessaries as every one could take along with him, for now every man was to be his own porter, the necessary provisions and liquors being found load enough for the boats, and twenty-five days bread load enough for each man. This being adjusted, when night approached they were all ordered on board to sleep.

Thursday 8, at six in the morning all hands were ordered to turn out, and a detachment of fifty men from each ship, headed by their respective officers, were appointed to begin the hard task of hawling the launces along the ice. The bravest and gallantest actions performed in war, do not so strikingly mark the true character of a sea Commander, as the readiness and alacrity with which his orders are obeyed in times of imminent danger. Every one now strove who should have the honour to be listed in the band of haulers, of whom the Commodore took the direction, leaving Capt. Lutwych to take care of both the ships, that if any favourable turn should happen in the disposition of the ice, he might make use of the remaining part of both the crews to improve it. Upon a general consultation of officers, previous to this undertaking, it had been agreed, and an order issued accordingly, that no person on board, of whatever rank, should encumber himself with more cloaths than what he wore upon his back. Upon this occasion, therefore, the officers dressed themselves in flannels, and the common men put on the cloaths which the officers had thrown off. It was inconceivably laughable to see these motley bands yoked in their new harness; and, to say the truth, there was not one solemn face among the two companies. That headed by the Commodore drew stoutly for the honour of their leader, and that headed by their Lieutenants had their music to play to them, that they might dance it away, and keep pace with the Commander in chief. Indeed the officers who headed them were deservedly beloved as well as their Commanders, particularly Lieutenant Beard, whose steady and uniform conduct in times of the greatest danger, cannot be sufficiently admired or applauded. Neither swayed by passion, nor disconcerted by the sudden embarrassments that often intervened, his conduct was always calm, and his orders resolute. He never was heard, during the whole voyage on the most pressing emergencies, to enforce his commands with an oath, or to call a sailor by any other than his usual name; and so sensible were they of his manly behaviour, that, when the ship was paid off at Deptford, they were only prevented by his most earnest request from stripping themselves to their shirts, to cover the streets with their cloaths, that he might not tread in the dirt in going to take coach.

In six hours, with the utmost efforts of human labour, they had only proceeded a single mile; and now it was time for them to dine, and recruit their almost exhausted spirits. As the Commodore had laboured with them, it was in character that he should dine with them also; and an accident happened that made it necessary for him so to do. The Cook, with his mates, (who were bringing the Commodore and the officers their dinners under covers) to keep out the cold after coming from a warm fire-side, had made a little too free with the brandy bottle before they set out, and before they had got half way to the lances, the liquor began to operate; the Cooks were sometimes very near boarding each other, sometimes they hauled off, and sometimes steered right a-head. At length coming to a chasm, or parting of the ice, which they were obliged to leap, down came the master Cook, with dish, cover, meat and all; and what was still worse, though it was not then thought of much value, the Commodore’s common service of plate, which the Cook carried for the officers to dine on, fell in the chasm, and instantly sunk to the bottom. This accident brought the Cook a little to himself, and he now stood pausing whether he should jump down the gulph after the plate, or proceed to the Commodore to beg mercy and make his apology. His mates persuaded him to the latter, as the Commodore was a kind-hearted gemman, and would never take a man’s life away for a slip on the ice. Besides, it was a great jump for a fat man, and Commodore, they were sure, had rather lose all the plate in the great cabin, than lose Cookie. Comforted a little by this speech, the Cook proceeded, but let his mates go on first with what remained, to carry the tidings of what befell the rest. When the Commodore had heard the story, he judged how it was with them all. But where is the Cook, said he to the mates? He’s crying behind, an please your Honour. In the mean time the Cook came up. Cook, said the Commodore, bring me your dinner. I will dine to-day with my comrades. My dinner! Ay, a pound of the flesh next my heart, if your Honour likes it. The promptness of the reply shewed the sincerity of the Cook’s good-will, and pleased the Commodore better than a feast upon turtle. He dismissed him with a smile, and partook with the officers in what was left, who made up their dinners with a mess from the common men.

They had just begun to renew their labour, when word was brought, that the whole body of ice had changed its situation, and was moving to the westward; that the ships were both a-float; and that the ice was parting. The joy which this news diffused through the two companies of hawlers is easier to conceive than express. They instantly shook off their harness, ran to assist in working the ships, and once more to resume their proper employments. When they arrived at the ships, Captain Lutwych, who was no less beloved by his men than the Commodore, had by his example and his judicious directions done wonders. Both ships were not only a-float, with their sails set, but actually cut and warped through the ice near half a mile. This ray of hope, however, was soon darkened; the body of ice suddenly assumed its former direction to the eastward, and closed upon them again as fast as ever. While the ships remained in the ice-dock, they were lashed together for their greater security, but now being launched and a-float, the ice pressed upon them with such weight, that it was every moment expected that the hawser would break that held them together; orders were therefore given, that the hawser should be slackened, and the ships released.

For the remainder of the evening, and till two in the morning, the drift continued eastward, and all that while the ships were in danger of being crushed by the closing of the channel in which they rode. They had now drifted two miles to the eastward; the men were worn out with fatigue in defending the ships with their ice-poles from being engulphed; and now nothing but scenes of horror and perdition appeared before their eyes. But the Omnipotent, in the very moment, when every hope of deliverance from their own united endeavours had relinquished them, interposed in their favours, and caused the winds to blow, and the ice to part in an astonishing manner, rending and cracking with a tremendous noise, surpassing that of the loudest thunder. At this very instant the whole continent of ice, which before was extended beyond the reach of sight from the highest mountains, moved together in various directions, splitting and dividing into vast bodies, and forming hills and plains of various figures and dimensions. All hearts were now again revived, and the prospect of being once more released from the frozen chains of the north inspired the men with fresh vigour. Every officer and every idler on board laboured now for life. The sails were all spread, that the ships might have the full advantage of the breeze to force them through the channels that were already opened, and to help them, like wedges, to rend the clefts that were but just cracking.

While the major part of the crews were employed in warping the ships with ice-anchors, axes, saws and poles, a party from both ships were dispatched to launch the boats. This was no easy task to accomplish. The ice, though split in many thousand pieces, was yet frozen like an island round the lances, and though it was of no great extent, yet the boats were of a weight hardly to be moved by the small force that could be spared to launch them. They were besides, by the driving of the ice, at more than five miles distance from the ships; and at this time no channels of communication were yet opened. But Providence was manifest even on this occasion; for the island on which the lances stood, parted while the men were hauling them, and by that lucky circumstance they were launched with great facility, without the loss of a man, though the ice cracked, as it were, under their feet.

The people on board had not been able to force their way with the ships much more than a mile, when the party in the lances joined them. And now, excited by what curiosity or instinct is not easy to determine, several bears came posting over the ice to be spectators of their departure, and advanced so near the ships, that they might have been easily mastered, had not the men been more seriously employed.

This day they altered their soundings from thirty to fifty fathoms, and from fifty to eighty and eighty-five fathoms.

The breeze continuing fresh from east-south-east and east, the ice seemed to open as fast as it had before closed when the wind blew westerly, and from the north; a strong presumptive proof of land to the eastward, which stopping the current of the loose ice in driving from the north and west, closes it in course, and renders it compact. On the contrary, when the wind blows off the land, and the current sets to the sea, the loose ice being no longer opposed, disperses itself again in the ocean, where it again floats, till the same cause produces the same effect. If therefore the land which our voyagers saw on the 30th, and which they could not determine with certainty to be an island, should, upon some future occasion, be discovered to be a continent, then the closing of the loose ice so suddenly about the seven islands, and its crouding one piece upon another to a great height, when violently agitated by tempests from the north or west, will be fully and naturally accounted for.

Tuesday the 10th, about two in the morning, the fog being thick, and the weather calm, and the men very much fatigued, they were ordered to their quarters, to refresh themselves with sleep. It was, besides, very cold, and much rain fell; and as the wind was variable, they could make but little progress. The ice, in the morning early, seemed rather to close upon them, than to divide; and being apprehensive for their boats, they attempted to hoist the lances on board, but that belonging to the Carcase, being either too unweildy, or the men too much fatigued to effect it, they slung her to the ship’s side.

About eight the breeze sprung up fresh from the north-east, exceedingly cold, but opening the ice to the westward. They then made all the sail they could, driving with the loosening ice, and parting it wherever it was moveable with their whole force. Towards noon they lost sight of the Seven Islands. And in a very little while after, to their great joy, Spitsbergen was seen from the mast-head.

Wednesday 11, the men who, with hard labour, cold and watching, were much dispirited, on the prospect of a speedy deliverance, and seeing the ice no longer adhere in immoveable bodies, began, after a little refreshment, to resume their wonted chearfulness. They had not till the second closing of the ice, after the attempt to dig a passage through it had proved ineffectual, and that the hauling the lances had been tried with little better success, discovered the least despondency. But when they had exerted their utmost efforts, and Providence, which at first seemed to second their endeavours, appeared to have forsaken them; when their pilots had filled their minds with the terrors of their situation; and their officers had given the ships and their most valuable effects over for lost, the men then began to reflect on the hardships they were likely to suffer, and to be impressed with the sense of their common danger. Their apprehensions, however, were but temporary, and the moment they were released from their icey prison, and that they were within sight of a clear sea, their sorrow was changed to mirth, and their melancholy to rejoicing. Festivity and jolity took place of abstinence and gloomy apprehensions; and before they arrived at Spitsbergen, there was not a sailor on board with a serious face.

The ice that had parted from the main body, they had now time to admire. As it no longer obstructed their course, the various shapes in which the broken fragments appeared, were indeed very curious and amusing. One remarkable piece described a magnificent arch so large and compleatly formed, that a sloop of considerable burden might have sailed through it without lowering her mast; another represented a church with windows and pillars, and domes; and a third, a table with icicles hanging round it like the fringes of a damask cloth. A fertile imagination might here find entertainment enough for, as has already been observed, the similitude of all that art or nature has ever yet produced, might here be fancied.

They continued working all this day through the loose ice. Hacluit’s Headland bearing south thirty-nine west, and in their course saw a Dutch Greenlandman in the south-west quarter.

Thursday the 12th, they cleared the ice, and bore away with all sails set for the harbour of Smearingburg, in which they had before cast anchor. At two in the afternoon they anchored in North Bay, the north part of Vogle Sound bearing north forty-five east, distance about four miles. At half after four the Commodore made the signal to weigh; and at half past nine, came to an anchor in their former station, where they found four Dutch Greenlandmen lying in readiness to depart. These Dutchmen acquainted the Commodore, that all the English fishing ships set sail on the 10th of July, the day to which they are obliged by contract, to stay to entitle their owners to receive the bounty-money, allowed by Parliament for the encouragement of that fishery.

About the same time the greatest part of the Dutch set sail likewise from Spitsbergen, on their voyage home; but it is a practice with these last, to take it by turns to wait till the severity of the weather obliges them to leave the coast, in order to pick up such men as may by accident have lost their ships in the ice; and who, notwithstanding, may have had the good fortune to save their lives by means of their boats. This is a very humane institution, and does credit to the Dutch Government. Did the British Government bear an equal regard for individuals, so many valuable subjects would never be suffered to migrate, as now annually hire ships to convey themselves to seek their fortunes in new settlements. It is estimated, that twelve thousand at least are yearly shipt off from Ireland, and not many less from England and Scotland, yet no measures are thought necessary to be taken to retain them at home.

The turn of waiting at Spitsbergen falls annually to the lot of about five Dutch ships, who are obliged to send out their boats daily in search of their unfortunate fellow subjects; some of these boats have themselves suffered severely, and have been detained seven or eight days by severe weather in these excursions, to the great anxiety of their friends.

The day of our voyagers return to Smearingburg Harbour being fine, the Commodore ordered a tent to be raised on the lower point to the south-west, where there was a level plain for the space of two miles, and where all the mathematical apparatus were again taken on shore for a second trial.

They found, on the examination of the vibration of the pendulum, that it differed from that at Greenwich by Harrison’s time-keeper, only two seconds in forty-eight hours; which time-keeper, at their arrival at Greenwich, varied only one second and a half from the time-pieces at the observatory there. Mr. Robinson, who was articled to Commodore Phipps, from Christ’s Hospital, and who does honour to that noble foundation, was particularly careful to note the result of all the observations that were made in this high latitude.

The ovens were also here taken on shore, and a considerable quantity of good soft bread baked for the refreshment of the men.

Hacluit’s Headland, of which mention has been frequently made in the course of this voyage, is an island on the north-west point of Spitsbergen, about fifteen miles in circumference, on which is found plenty of scurvy-grass; and in the valleys, some of which extend from two to three miles, there is store of other grass in summer, on which the deer is supposed to feed.

The people were now fully employed in overhauling the rigging, tarring the ships sides, taking in water, peying and securing the masts, and in preparing the ships for pursuing their voyage upon discovery; or, if that was found impracticable, for returning home.

On the 16th, two of the Dutch ships weighed anchor, and sailed away in company.

On the 17th, vast pieces of broken ice, supposed to have fallen from the Icebergs, came floating into harbour. When these pieces, which are undermined by the continual agitation of the sea in stormy weather, lose their support, they tumble with a crack that surpasses the loudest thunder; but they were told, that no other thunder was ever heard in this latitude.

The activity and enterprizing spirit of the Russians already noticed, begin to manifest itself every where, and it is not improbable, but that the maritime powers may one day or other have cause to repent their emulation in contributing to aggrandize the naval power of that increasing people. The dominions of the Russian empire, are situated to command the trade of the universe; they are now actually erecting a yard for building ships at Kampschatka, to improve their discoveries from that quarter, and to open a trade from thence to China. They have attempted to settle colonies, as our voyagers were told, on the southernmost districts of Spitsbergen, and those of the new settlers, who survived the first winter, were preparing to encounter the rigour of the climate in a second. This can only be done by way of experiment, to try if a settlement is practicable, for those now sent are said to be criminals.

During the six days which the ships anchored here to make observations, take in water, refresh the men, and refit, our journalist made several excursions to the adjoining islands, where the birds appeared in astonishing numbers; it being the season for bringing forth their young, and teaching them to fly, and to dive.

Of all the birds that breed in these islands, the burgermaster is the largest, and the most ravenous; he is so called by the Dutch, from his size and his authority, as he holds all the other birds in subjection. His bill is long and crooked, rather like that of the stork, than that of the hawk, and is of a yellow colour. He has a red ring about his eyes; is web footed, but has but three claws on each foot. His wings are of a beautiful pearl colour, edged with white; his back a silver grey; his body white as snow, and his tail of the same colour, which when he flies he spreads like a fan. He builds his nest very high in the rocks, inaccessible either to bears or foxes. He preys upon all the other birds, and eats the carrion of fish or flesh, or whatever comes in his way. His cry is horrible, and when he screams, the mallemuch, a bird as large as a duck, is so much intimidated, that she will sink down, and suffer him to devour her without opposition.

Our journalist found it very dangerous to pursue his way over the hills and precipices in this rugged country. The clefts on the mountains are like those in the ice frequently impassable; but they are abundantly more hazardous, being sometimes concealed under the snow, so that a traveller is engulphed before he is aware. Many have been entombed in these clefts; and perished in the hearing of their companions, without a possibility of relief. To a contemplative mind, however, even the deformities of nature, are not unpleasing, the wisdom of the Creator being manifest in all his works.

On the 19th of August the ships unmoored, and on the twentieth they cleared the harbour. They found the tide to flow north-east and south-west, and to rise three feet seven inches perpendicular height.

On the 22d they again found themselves beset with loose ice. They were then in latitude 80 degrees 14 minutes north, longitude 5 degrees 44 minutes east.

On the 22d they had a heavy sea from the south-west quarter.

On the 23d the Carcase, being a heavier sailer than the Race Horse, lost sight of the Commodore, and fired a six-pounder, which was answered. In the evening they came in sight, and pursued their course with favourable weather, and without any thing worthy of notice happening till

September 5, when, being clear and calm weather, the Commodore sounded, and found ground with seven hundred fathoms, very soft mud. The people were employed eight hours in heaving up the lead with the capstan. At three in the morning the sun risen, took the amplitude, and found the variation to be 22 degrees 53 minutes west.

September 7, at five in the afternoon, they had heavy squalls, with rain; at seven in the morning moderate weather. This day, in 60 degrees 15 minutes west, they found their longitude, corrected by observation of sun and moon, to be 5 degrees 59 minutes east. Longitude by time-keeper 4 degrees 45 minutes east; a very remarkable difference.

The ships pursued their course home in company together, with high seas and variable weather, till

Sept. 11, when, at half after ten, the night dark, and the weather moderate, the wind all at once veered to the southward, and a strong gale with a great sea came on. The ships parted, and never more came in sight till they met off Harwich, on the English coast.

Our journalist being on board the Carcase, can now only relate what happened to that sloop, till her arrival in the River Thames.

When the gale came on, the Commodore’s lights not appearing, the Carcase fired a six-pounder, but that shot not being returned by the Race Horse, it was concluded, that the Commodore was at too great a distance to hear the signal. At four in the morning the gale increasing, they close reefed the top-sails, and employed all hands in lashing and securing the boats and booms, and preparing to withstand the threatening storm. At this time they were in lat. 57 deg. 44 min. north; the Naze of Norway bearing south eighty-eight east, distant thirty-one leagues.

Sunday, September 12, fresh gales, with frequent showers of rain; handed gib and stay-sail; at two in the afternoon hard squalls and violent showers of rain; handed fore and mizen top-sail; saw a sail to southward standing to eastward; cloudy and obscure sky at ten at night came on suddenly a very heavy squall; handed all the top-sails; strong gale, with severe showers of rain. At midnight blowing a violent storm of wind, reefed and handed the main-sail and fore-sail; lowered down the lower yards, balanced the mizen, and laid the ship too under it, with her head to the westward; the sea making a free passage over the ship. Shipped such heavy seas, washed all the provisions and casks that were lashed on the deck, over board; kept two pumps continually going; obliged to skuttle the boats, to prevent their being washed over-board. At four in the morning shipped such heavy seas, as washed all the booms and spars that had been with all possible care secured on the deck, over-board. The ship mostly under water. No sight of the Commodore; under great apprehensions for his safety, as his vessel laboured much more than ours. At this time one of the mates, the carpenter, and a fore-mast-man, were washed over-board. The carpenter, a very careful sober man, who was in the waste, securing the hatches and stores, was washed in and out at the ports three times, before he could secure himself. At ten in the morning rather moderate. Set the mizen-stay-sail; swayed the lower yards up, and set the courses. At half past eleven, strong squalls and heavy gusts; handed both courses; and settled the lower yards.

September 13, strong gales and squally. Continually shipping heavy seas. At three in the afternoon rather more moderate; set reef courses; swayed up the lower yards, and set the main-top-sail. The ship now making no water; at seven in the evening set fore-top-sail and gib; very heavy sea from south-west quarter. At eight in the evening moderate and cloudy; let the third reef out of the main-top-sail; sounded thirty-five fathoms fine brown sand. At one in the morning light airs, hazey weather, and great sea. Wore ship, and stood to westward. At four fresh breezes, with rain. At half past eight saw a sail to eastward; supposing it the Commodore, made the private signal, and fired a six-pounder. At nine bore down upon her, and brought her to. She proved a Hollander from Archangel, bound to Bremen. Course south forty-two west, latitude fifty-six deg. four min. north.

September 14, strong gales, and cloudy; under reef courses. At two in the afternoon moderate; set main-top-sail. At three set fore-top-sail; a great sea from westward. At seven in the evening moderate and cloudy. Out the third reef of the main-top-sail; uncertain weather; squally, and at times much rain; at three great fog. This day, at noon, Flamborough-head south forty-six west, distance thirty leagues.

September 15, light breezes, and clear weather; out all reefs, and swayed up the lower yards. At four in the afternoon saw a sail to south-east; bore down, and brought her to. She proved to be a Prussian fisherman, had been ten days from Edinburgh; hoisted out the small cutter; the second Lieutenant went on board of her, and bought a fine cargo of fish. At five the boat returned; we hoisted her on board, with plenty of mackarel and herrings. Made sail, and stood to south-west; sounded every half hour; found from thirteen to fifteen, and eighteen fathoms, fine brown sand, mixed with black shells. At seven in the evening took the first reef, and hauled in the top-sails; fresh gales, and cloudy. At two in the morning deepened in water to twenty fathom. Took in second reef of the top-sails; tacked ship, and stood to north-west. At five in the morning got into fifteen fathom; and at seven into ten. At nine in the morning close reefed the top-sails, and at ten handed them; very fresh gale, and violent rain.

September 16, rather more moderate; set the main-top-sail; squally, with rain; a confused sea from west-north-west. At five in the afternoon soundings from five to twelve, from twenty-seven to thirty-two and thirty-four fathoms, fine brown sand, black specks, fresh gales, and cloudy. At eight took in first and second reefs of top-sails; at eleven at night close reefed the main and fore-top-sail, and handed the mizen; fresh gales, and cloudy weather. At four in the morning shoaled water to twenty-two fathoms; brown sand and broken shells. At five saw several sail to north-west; fired, and brought one of them to. At eight shook the first and second reefs out of the top-sail; hove down upon a sloop, which came from Gravesend; took on board the master, as a pilot to carry the ship through Yarmouth Roads; put on board one man in his room, and ordered his vessel to follow us. Stood to the southward.

September 17, fresh breezes, and cloudy weather; kept the lead going every half hour; found our sounding from ten to twelve fathoms, fine brown sand. At six in the afternoon fresh gales; close reefed the main-top-sail; soundings from ten to sixteen fathom; broken shells and large stones. At seven close reefed the main-top-sail; kept a light in the poop-lanthorn for the sloop. At ten strong gales; handed the top-sails; laid her to under the main-sail; handed the fore-sail. At eleven at night got into five fathom; but deepened to eight, nine, and ten fathom, brown sand. Lost sight of the fishing vessel; fired several guns, and made a signal in the mizen-shroud. On setting the fore-top-sail stacil, it blew to pieces; bent a new one. A violent gale of wind; shipped a great quantity of water. At four rather moderate; set the fore-sail. At midnight set close; reefed top-sails. At half past six tacked; at seven saw the fishing vessel; bore down and spoke with her, who had split her main-sail in the night. At ten saw the land bearing south-west by west, and south and by west. At eleven being clear and moderate weather, shook all the reefs out of the top-sails, and set the top-gallant-sail; saw Cromer light-house, bearing south 55 degrees west, distance five leagues.

September 19, fresh breezes and clear weather; bent the sheet-cable, and hauled a range of the best and small bower-cables; bent both buoy ropes and buoys to the anchor. At five light breezes and fair; tacked and stood to the southward. At six tacked and stood to the north-west. Cramer north-west and by north four miles; light breezes, and pleasant weather; handed in top-gallant-sails, and handed the main-sail. At seven in the evening, to our great joy, saw Yarmouth Church, bearing south-west. At ten at night came to anchor with the best bower in twelve fathom, fine sand and clay; veered out to half a cable, and handed all the sails. Winterstone Ness lights bore south and by west four miles. At two in the morning fresh breezes and cloudy. At half past four weighed, and made sail. Employed in working from Winterstone Ness lights, to Yarmouth Roads, making several tacks. At seven in the morning set top-gallant-sails; at nine came to an anchor in Yarmouth Road, with best bower in seven fathoms water; sand and clay. Yarmouth church south fifteen west, distance two miles. Came on board a pilot to carry the ship to the Nore.

September 20, fresh breezes and clear weather; sent down top-gallant-yards, and got every thing clear for striking tokens. At five in the afternoon moored the ship. Yarmouth church west-south-west two miles.

September 21, fresh gales and cloudy, with frequent rain. At four in the afternoon sent down top-gallant-mast. At eight in the morning sent the long-boat on shore for water. We were this day visited by several of the inhabitants of Norwich and Yarmouth, who were genteelly entertained by the officers, but we could get no intelligence of the Commodore.

September 23, dark cloudy weather. At six in the evening swayed up the top-mast, and lower yards; the wind veered to north-west, we prepared to unmoor. Fresh gales, with frequent flashes of lightning. At seven in the morning set on top-gallant-mast, and began to unmoor. At eight veered away upon the best bower, and took up the small bower-anchor. At nine weighed and made sail. At ten got up the top-gallant-yards, in company with several ships.

Saturday 25, at five came to an anchor in eleven fathoms. Orford light-house east by south four miles. This day some religious books were distributed among the sailors, which had been sent on board by some pious person for their particular perusal.

Sunday 26. At six in the evening came to with the best bower in seven fathoms water; Balsey church west by south. At two in the morning weighed, and came to sail; Harwich lights north-west by west. To their great surprise, saw the Race Horse at anchor. Hoisted out the cutter, and Capt. Lutwidge waited on the Commodore, from whom he learnt, that in the storm of the twelfth they had all their boats washed over-board; and, to ease the ship, were obliged to heave all their guns over-board, except two. Came to anchor; Harwich church north-west.

Monday 27, at two in the afternoon weighed, and came to sail in company with the Race Horse. At eight in the evening came to in the Swin. At five in the morning weighed, in company as before. Turning up the Swin at half past nine, came to; Whitaker Beacon north-north-east one mile.

Tuesday 28, fresh breezes and cloudy weather. At half past three weighed, and came to sail. At half past six came to with the best bower in six fathom water; Shoe Beacon north-west. At half past five weighed, and came to sail. Working to windward at eleven in the forenoon, the Commodore’s boat came on board, with orders to proceed to Deptford. At noon came to at the Nore with the best bower.

Wednesday 29, light breezes and fair weather. At half past five weighed, and made sail. Employed in working up the river. At half past ten came to with the best bower in the gallions, in three fathoms water. Woolwich church north by south one half east. At noon a hoy came along-side for the gunner’s stores.

Thursday 30, employed most of the afternoon in getting out the guns, and gunner’s stores. At nine in the evening weighed, and came to sail. At ten run foul of a large transport, and carried away the lar-board mizen-shrouds, and part of the channel. At one in the morning came to anchor at Deptford. Warped along-side the Bedford Hulk, and moored. At six unbent the sails, and began to unrig.

Thus ended a voyage, which seems to have determined the question so much agitated concerning the navigation to the north pole, and proved what Captain Wood had before asserted, that no passage would ever be found practicable in that direction.

From the quantities of ice which that navigator met with in latitude 76 north, longitude [missing number] east, he concluded indeed erroneously, that the 80th degree would bound the passage towards the poles, and that from thence the polar region was either a continued continent of solid ice, or that land filled up the intermediate space.

It has been found, however, that those seas are navigable as far as between the eighty-first and eighty-second degrees of latitude; and it may possibly happen, that in some future years, they may be found navigable a degree or two farther: but it may now with certainty be concluded, that a course under the pole can never be pursued for the purpose of commerce.

We have already shewn incontestibly, that the north sea communicates with the eastern sea, and that the passage to China and Japan may be performed with difficulty by a north-east course, by watching the opportunity, when a few days in the year the north sea is open. But who would think of exposing a ship’s company to the hazard of being frozen to death in a tedious, uncertain, and dangerous passage, when a safe, certain, and, one may say, speedy passage at all times lies open before them.

From Behring’s discoveries to the east of Japan, and from the continent he there met with, there seems reason to believe, that the land seen by Commodore Phipps to the eastward of the Seven Islands, might be a continuation of that continent. In that case it is not improbable, but that either that continent may join to the western part of America, or that it may extend southward, and form a part of that continent so much sought after in the southern hemisphere.

A small premium of two or three thousand pounds secured by Parliament, to be paid to the owner or owners of any Greenland fishing ship, that should be fortunate enough to discover such a continent to the eastward or northward of the Seven Islands, might possibly have a better effect, than many expensive expeditions fitted out solely for the purposes of such discovery. This, by a trading nation, were it only to improve the science of geography, would surely be well bestowed.

It is true, indeed, that the reward secured by parliament for the discovery of a north-west passage, has not yet been attended with that success, with which the promoters of the bill had flattered themselves and the public, from the liberal spirit with which it was granted.

The Hudson’s Bay Company, though bound by their charter to further and promote the discovery, were generally suspected, from interested motives, to oppose and discourage every attempt to accomplish it. And Captain Middleton, who in 1740 was sent in a king’s ship upon that service, returning without success, was publicly charged with having received a bribe of five thousand pounds to defeat the undertaking, and by his report to discourage any farther attempts in pursuit of it. This charge was strongly supported, and generally credited. And Mr. Dobbs, by whose interest Captain Middleton was employed, had the address to prevail with the then ministry, to preclude any future scheme of private corruption, by promoting the public reward already mentioned.

The preamble to the act will state this matter in the true light it lets forth, “That whereas the discovery of a north-west passage through Hudson’s Streight to the western ocean would be of great benefit and advantage to this kingdom, and that it would be of great advantage to the adventurers to attempt the same, if a public reward was given to such persons as should make a perfect discovery of the said passage; it is therefore enacted, that if any ships or vessels belonging to his majesty’s subjects shall find out and sail through any passage by sea between Hudson’s bay and the western ocean of America, the owners of such ships or vessels shall be entitled to receive as a reward for such discovery the sum of Twenty-thousand Pounds.” And as a farther encouragement to prosecute this discovery, and to prevent obstructions from interested persons, it was enacted, “that all persons, subjects of his Majesty, residing in any place where the said adventurers may come in the prosecution of this discovery, shall give the said adventurers all assistance, and shall no way obstruct, molest, or refuse the said adventurers reasonable succour in any distress they may fall into in the prosecution of this discovery.”

Such was the encouragement, and such the liberal reward that was and is secured by parliament to the fortunate discoverers of a north-west passage to the great pacific ocean; a passage which, it is generally believed, would open a trade with nations on the northern continent of America, wholly unknown to the maritime powers of Europe, and supposed, from their situation, to abound in commodities equally rare and precious with those of any other country under the sun.

The fair prospect of acquiring fame by enlarging commerce, the hope of obtaining the parliamentary reward, and the desire of exposing the dis-ingenuity of Captain Middleton, were incitements sufficient to prevail with Mr. Dobbs to sollicit the equipment of two ships for another voyage, which he made not the least doubt would find out the passage so long sought for in vain, and by the advantages attending the discovery, exceed the most sanguine expectations of the adventurers.

The command of this expedition was given to Captain Ellis, who, on the 31st of May, 1746, passed Yarmouth in the Dobb’s Galley, accompanied by the California Sloop, and convoyed to the north sea by the Loo man of war. But in proportion as Mr. Dobbs had flattered the avarice of the adventurers who were to share in the reward, and had elated himself with the thoughts of triumphing over the disgrace of Captain Middleton, so it happened, that when the ships returned without having effected any one thing of consequence, the chagrin of the former for having advanced their money on a visionary project, and the mortification of the latter in not being able to support his charge, were increased by every circumstance that could aggravate the disappointment. Captain Middleton now triumphed in his turn, and no ship from England has since been induced to undertake the voyage, notwithstanding the greatness of the reward.

It is now, however, believed, that Government have in contemplation another voyage to the north, to which that of Captain Phipps was only the prelude; but there is reason to conclude, from what has already been said of these latter attempts, and from the ill success of former undertakings, that the discovery of a north-west passage is not the sole object in view. The figure of the earth, the phenomena of the winds, the variation of the compass, and the attraction of the magnet, are points yet unsettled, of infinite importance to navigation; and it is not impossible, but that a more careful examination of the polar regions may lead to the solution of problems, that have hitherto baffled the enquiries of the ablest navigators.

A very slender acquaintance with the difficulties and hardships attending northern discoveries, will fully account for our knowledge of the countries surrounding the pole being still very imperfect. A brief recapitulation of the sufferings of those to whom we are most indebted for our information, will not, we hope, be thought an improper conclusion to a voyage solely undertaken with a view to enlarge it.

The first who conceived the idea of exploring the northern regions was Sebastian Cabbot. That enterprizing navigator, long before Magellan thought of a passage to the pacific ocean by the south-west, had made two voyages, with a view to direct his course to the same sea by the north-west. In these voyages, he discovered Newfoundland, the coast of the Esquimeaux Indians, and had penetrated as far as the 64th degree of latitude, when a mutiny among his men, or rather an obstinate refusal to proceed any further, obliged him to return; yet he died in the persuasion that a passage in that direction certainly existed, and that he should have found it but for the opposition of his crew.

The next, who, prepossessed with the same notion, undertook a voyage for discoveries towards the north, was Sir Martin Forbisher. He discovered Greenland, and in the latitude of 62 deg. north, passed a streight, which, though it still holds a place in our maps, has never been found navigable since. He made two other voyages, discovered many bays and capes, to which he gave names, but returned without attaining the principal object of his voyage, though, like his predecessor, he asserted the certainty of its existence to his latest hour.

To him succeeded Sir Humphry Gilbert, who in 1583 traversed the coast of Labradore, entered the mouth of the great river St. Laurence, and, surrounding the island of Newfoundland, laid the foundation of the cod fishery, which has been prosecuted with immense advantage to his country ever since.

The rapid progress of discoveries in the southern hemisphere, which about this time were attended with vast profit to the adventurers, re-animated cotemporary navigators to prosecute, with more ardour than ever, their enterprizes towards the north. The more the pacific ocean became known, the firmer the belief prevailed, that a passage into it by way of the north must certainly exist, and that whoever could discover it, would not only immortalize his name, but enrich his country.

The merchants of that time were no less eager to embark their money, than the navigators were to hazard their persons in any new project, where the hope of gain appeared to be well founded. A company therefore of wealthy persons in London agreed to join a company of merchants in the west, and to fit out two ships for the discovery of a passage, which all agreed was practicable, though none could tell readily where to find it. To the command of this expedition Captain John Davis was strongly recommended as an able navigator, and of a bold and enterprising spirit. Accordingly, on the 7th of June, 1585, he set sail from Dartmouth, in the Sunshine of fifty tons, and accompanied by the Moonshine of thirty-five tons, having on board both vessels forty-two hardy seamen. On the 19th of July they were alarmed by a mighty roaring, which was the more terrible, as the fog was so thick, that they could not see each other at a ship’s length. It proved only the crackling of the islands of ice, which was not then very well understood. On the breaking up of the fog they discovered land, which, from its horrid appearance, they named the land of desolation. On the 24th they were in 64 deg. 15 min. north, the sea open and the weather moderate. In this latitude they discovered land, and conversed with the natives, who appeared to be a harmless hospitable people, polite in their manners, neatly habited, and not ill-favoured. These friendly people, observing that the English admired their furs, went up in the country to bring down more, with which they traded with much simplicity. To an adjoining hill Davis gave the name of Mount Raleigh, from which he took his departure on the 8th of August, and on the 11th doubled the southernmost cape in view, to which he gave the name of the Cape of God’s Mercy, and entered a streight, which bears the name of the Discoverer to this day. In this streight he sailed sixty leagues, and on the 14th went on shore, and found evident signs of human inhabitants, being met by a pack of dogs (twenty in number) that expressed their joy, as if their masters had been returned after an interval of absence. One of those had on a leathern collar. The Captain was highly pleased with the promising appearance of the new streights, and consulting with the master, agreed to report, upon their return home, that they had found the wished-for passage to the western sea.

The weather changing from temperate to excessive cold, on the 20th it was resolved to set sail for England. On the 12th of September they fell in with the land of Desolation, and on the 30th of the same month entered the port of Dartmouth, without the loss of a man.

The account Captain Davis gave to his owners was so well received, that other merchants were desirous of joining in a second expedition, and accordingly he was again employed, and furnished with a much greater force.

On the 7th of May he sailed from Dartmouth in the Mermaid, of 120 tons, in company with the Sunshine and Moonshine as before, and an additional pinnace of thirteen tons, called the North Star.

In the latitude of 60 degrees north Captain Davis divided his force, ordering the Sunshine and North Star to seek a passage between Greenland and Iceland, while the Mermaid and Moonshine continued their course to the streight as before. In the latitude of 64 degrees, and longitude 58 deg. 30 min. north from London, they fell again in with the land, and met the same people with whom they had traded the former year. Overjoyed to meet, they renewed their acquaintance, and while the English was preparing a pinnace to facilitate their discoveries, the natives came in numbers to carry on trade. As soon as the pinnace was fitted for sea, Captain Davis dispatched her to examine the inlets on the coast, and to trace their course up the main land; but that was productive of no essential discovery.

Though the natives attended them with an obsequious diligence, yet on their kindling a fire in their manner, and using some strange ceremonies, Captain Davis supposing them to be using idolatrous sorceries, first thrust the priest into the smoke, and then encouraged his men to tread out the flame, and to spurn the reeking coals into the sea. Unable to bear the insult, the natives for the first time began to shew resentment. They seized the boat from the stern of the Moonshine, cut the cable belonging to the Mermaid, made prize of the implements that lay upon the shore, and, in short, declared open hostilities against the aggressors, who in return discharged their artillery among them, which instantly dispersed them.

No civilities, however, that could be shewn them, after the indignity offered to their priest, could ever after reconcile them, and the year following they found an opportunity to take a severe revenge. In the mean time one of them being made prisoner, was taken on board the Mermaid; who, after recovering his fright, trimmed up his darts, repaired his fishing tackle, picked okam, and set his hand to any thing he was set about; and, after a time, became a very pleasant companion on board.

On the 17th of July, in latitude 63 degrees 8 min. north, they fell in with a continent of ice, very high, like land, with bays and capes, and, till they examined it closely, could not be convinced that it was a mere congelation. They coasted it till the 30th, when the weather became so tempestuous and foggy, and withal so cold, that the shrouds, ropes, and sails were frozen and glazed with ice; and the men, who the year before found the sea open and the weather temperate, became so dispirited, that in an orderly manner they addressed their Commander, and intreated him to consider their present situation, to have regard to his own life, and the preservation of theirs; and not, through boldness and an indiscreet zeal for a hopeless discovery, leave their widows and fatherless children to blacken his memory with bitter curses. Moved with their pitiable representation, he discharged the Mermaid with those who were most desirous of returning home, and proceeded in the Moonshine to prosecute his voyage. Changing his course to recover the opposite shore on the 1st of August, in latitude 66 deg. 33 min. north, and longitude 70 degrees west, he discovered land, without either ice or snow. On the 2d they cast anchor in a fine road, and in a day or two were visited by the natives, who came to traffic. On the 14th they set sail to the westward, and on the 16th changed their course to the southward. On the 18th they discovered a high promontory to the north-west, which having no land to the south, recovered their hopes of a free passage.

On doubling the Cape, they found the land trending away to the south in broken islands, and coasting along till they arrived at a fine opening, in latitude 57 degrees, they sailed ten leagues, with woods and lawns on each side, abounding with deer and game of every kind. Here they staid till the 1st of September, and then set sail, coasting along to the northward, where they were again flattered with the hopes of a passage, by observing a strong current rushing in between two lands to the westward, which they were very desirous of approaching, but the wind blew directly against them.

On the 6th, returning to their former station, five of the crew fell into an ambuscade; for having ventured on shore unarmed in their boat, they were suddenly assaulted from the woods, two of them killed upon the spot, two grievously wounded, and the fifth made his escape by swimming, with an arrow sticking in his arm. The same evening a furious storm arose, which lasted till the 10th, in which time they in a manner unrigged their ship, and were about to cut away her masts by the board, the cable of their sheet anchor parted, and they every moment expected to be dashed upon the rocks, and to be made a prey by the savage cannibals of the country; but the storm abating, and the sea growing calm, they recovered their anchor on the 11th, and made sail for England.

About the beginning of October they arrived at Dartmouth, where they found the Sunshine, but the North Star having parted company in a hard gale on the coast of Greenland, was never more heard of.

This undaunted mariner had yet the courage to undertake a third voyage, and then sailed as far as the 73d degree of north latitude, but being deserted by his companions, was forced to return in great distress to his old port. Upon his return he wrote a letter to his patron, assuring him, that he had found an open sea in latitude 73 degrees north, and a streight forty leagues broad, and concluded from thence that the passage was most certain.

From this period till the year 1610 we find no farther attempts made to revive this discovery; but in that year Mr. Henry Hudson, one of the most celebrated mariners of his time, was prevailed upon to undertake a voyage that was purposely set on foot to make trial of his skill. He sailed April the 7th, 1610, steering directly to Davis’s Streights, he there changed his course to the westward, and struck out a new track that no mariner had ever sailed before, which led him through the streight that still bears his name into the great bay that bounds the American continent on the north-east, and seems to communicate by various openings with the north sea. Here he continued traversing for almost three months in search of a passage to the westward, but finding himself embayed, he stood to the south, intending to winter in the mildest latitude the Bay would admit; accordingly, he is said to have wintered in latitude 52 degrees north, longitude 80 degrees west, where on the 1st of November his ship was frozen in, and being scantily provided with provisions, the crew mutinied, and in the end most barbarously contrived, as the writer expresses it, to turn the Captain, the carpenter, and all the sick men out of the ship, who were never more heard of. After which the leaders of the mutiny determined to make the best of their way for England; but in their passage home not a few perished, and those who survived suffered unspeakable misery.

But notwithstanding this disaster, and that it was certainly known that the Captain and all who were left behind were either drowned, starved, or murdered, the progress he had made in the discovery encouraged others to follow his track.

The next who adventured was Captain Button, a man of great abilities, courage, and experience. Patronized by Henry, Prince of Wales, he sailed in 1611, and having passed Hudson’s Streights, pursued a different track from that of Captain Hudson, leaving his discoveries to the south, and shaping his course to the north-west.

After sailing more then two hundred leagues, he fell in with a large continent, which, from its mountainous appearance, he named New Wales; but finding no passage to the westward, he followed the direction of the land to the southward, till he arrived at Port Nelson, where he wintered in 63 deg. 30 min. north; but, though he kept three fires in his ship constantly burning, and his company killed incredible numbers of white partridges and other wild fowl, yet many of his men perished by the severity of the cold, which in that climate was almost insupportable.

In 1615 Captain William Baffin undertook the examination of the extremity of that sea into which Davis’s Streights opened a passage, and he so far succeeded, as to determine its extent, and to discover an outlet marked in our maps, by the name of Sir Thomas Smith’s Sound, which is probably the only communication between our northern bays and the great pacific ocean, which nature has provided, in order to maintain a general circulation, without which it is hardly possible to conceive, that the equipoise of the globe could for a moment be preserved.

In 1619 Captain John Munk, at the instance of his Danish Majesty, undertook this discovery, and arrived safe at Cape Farewell, where, though the tackle of the ship was so frozen and full of isicles, that the mariners could not handle the ropes, yet next day it was so hot, that they were forced to work in their shirts. He entered Hudson’s Streight in the month of July, and was forced to winter in latitude 63 degrees 20 min. north, on an island that still retains his name; but the hardships he endured almost exceed belief. In May, 1620, he found himself alone in a cave dug in the earth, scarce alive, and almost morally certain, that all his mariners were dead. As soon as the weather would permit he crawled forth, and found, of all his crew, only two left. By removing the snow, they found some fresh herbs underneath, and by eating them, recovered from the scurvy. Unable to navigate their ships, they abandoned her to the savages, and, by a wonderful providence, got safe to Norway in the Pinnace. Being a man of uncommon resolution, he was still sollicitous to perfect a discovery, which had baffled the researches of so many able navigators, and to acquire glory, by accomplishing that which they had failed to attain. He asserted the existence of such a passage so confidently, and laid down the method of finding it so plausibly, that he had persuaded the merchants of Norway to raise a joint stock to defray the expences of a second voyage; but applying to the King for his permission and protection, and relating to him his own sufferings, and those of his companions in his former voyage, his Majesty told him, he had already been the death of too many of his subjects, and wondered at his presumption to seek to murder more. To which Monk gave a quick reply, which provoked the King to strike him over his stomach with his cane. Whether the severity of the blow, or the sense of the indignity was the occasion, is not certain; but he quitted the royal presence with marks of strong resentment, and returning to his chamber, refused assistance, and three days after breathed his last.

Capt. Luke Fox and Capt. James were the next who professedly engaged in this discovery; the first in a King’s frigate, victualled for eighteen months; the other in a small vessel of seventy tons, built at Bristol on purpose; victualled and equipped by private adventurers.

Captain Fox departed in the spring of 1631, traced all the western bays discovered by former navigators, examined the westermost part of Hudson’s Bay, and returned in 1632. He published a pompous account of his discoveries, which, however, was never much regarded.

On the 3d of May, 1631, Captain James set sail from the Severn’s mouth, and on the 29th of June cleared Hudson’s Streights, where he found himself so pestered with broken ice, as to put it out of his power to prosecute his discoveries to the north-westward, as he had intended; he therefore ordered his master to steer west south-west, and on the 27th of July, after sustaining most dreadful shocks, found his ship enclosed so fast among the ice, that notwithstanding it blew a hard gale, and all sails set, she stirred no more than if she had been in a dry dock. It was now that the men first began to murmur, and the Captain himself was not without his fears, lest they should here be frozen up and obliged to winter in the middle of the sea. By an observation which they made upon the ice, they found that they were in latitude 58 deg. 54 min. north.

On the 5th of next month to their great joy the ice opened, and on the 6th they were again in a clear sea. On the 13th, seeing some breakers a-head, and looffing to clear them, the ship suddenly struck upon the rocks, and received three dreadful shocks, but the swell heaved her over, and on pumping she made no water.

They were now encumbered with rocks, as before they had been with ice, and in the most perilous situation that can be conceived, and so continued two nights and two days, every moment expecting to be dashed to pieces. On the fog’s clearing up they saw land from the north-west to the south-east by east, with rocks and breakers. On the 16th they weighed and made sail, when a storm arose and drove them within sight of Port Nelson. On the 17th they stood to the southward. On the 20th they made land, in latitude 57 degrees north, where they cast anchor, call’d it the Principality of South Wales.

Having weighed, on the 27th they set sail, and in the evening came in sight of higher land.

On the 29th they saw a sail, which proved to be Captain Fox, already mentioned. They spoke together, and, after exchanging mutual civilities, parted.

Captain James kept coasting along the shore to make discoveries, and Captain Fox made the best of his way for England.

The Captain now began to think of a convenient place to winter in. In this attempt they met with so many disasters, that at last having no hope left, they began to prepare themselves to make a good end of a miserable life. On the 19th they lost their shallop, tho’ lashed to the ship by two hawsers, and to their inexpressible grief their boat was almost rendered irreparable.

Winter now began to set in a-pace, the nights long, the days close and foggy, the seas rough, and nothing but shoals and broken land to navigate. Added to all these the men began to sicken, an universal dejection to prevail, and in proportion as their distresses increased, their strength to bear up against them grew less every day.

On the 4th of November, being in latitude 52 degrees north, they fell in with an island, from which they found it impossible to depart. The men were quite worn down with fatigue, the sails so frozen as not to be unfurled, the ropes congealed in the blocks, and the deck knee-deep in snow. In this forlorn condition they built a tent on shore for the sick, and in this tent they kept fires continually burning night and day, but the cold increased so fast, that beer, and even spirits, froze by the fire-side.

The sufferings of the Captain and crew from the latter end of October when they landed, till the 2d of July, when they departed, are hardly to be parelleled.

This was the last voyage that was undertaken for the discovery of a north-west passage, till that of Captain Middleton, already related. From all which, and the opinion of Captain James after his return, there is great reason to conclude, that what we have said of a north-east passage is likewise true of a passage by the north-west, that it most certainly exists, but will never be found practicable for mercantile purposes.

FINIS.

Transcriber’s notes

New original cover art included with this ebook is granted to the public domain.

The illustrations have been moved to appropriate paragraph breaks.

The original text used the long s. This has been changed to the regular s.

The page numbers in the original jump from 272 to 281. There is no text missing.

On supplement page 101 the longitude number is missing in the original.

On supplement page 108 the year in which Captain John Davis set sail from Dartmouth has been corrected from 1685 to 1585.

Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.

Archaic and inconsistent spelling and hyphenation have been retained except for:

(Ship named) Moon-shine or Moonshine, regularised to Moonshine.

(Ship named) Sun-shine or Sunshine, regularised to Sunshine.