Captain COOK’s Voyage Round the World. In 1768, 1769, 1770 and 1771 (part 1)

Mr. Banks, a gentleman of considerable fortune in Lincolnshire, was induced to undertake this voyage from his natural curiosity, and invincible desire of attaining knowledge. He had already visited the banks of Newfoundland and Labradore, and was now happy in having an opportunity of observing the transit of Venus in the southern part of America. He accordingly engaged his friend Dr. Solander to accompany him in this voyage. This gentleman, who was born in Sweden, and educated under the celebrated Linnæus, had, from his extensive learning, been appointed to a place been appointed to a place in the British Museum, and given the greatest satisfaction in that capacity. Mr. Banks also took with him two draftsmen, one to delineate views and figures; the other to paint such subjects of natural history as might present themselves. He had besides a secretary and four servants.

On the 26th of August, 1768, the Endeavour sailed from Plymouth, and on the 2d of September they saw land between Cape Finister and Cape Ortegal, on the coast of Gallicia in Spain. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander had, during this course, an opportunity of viewing many marine animals, hitherto unnoticed; among these was a new species of an angular figure, near three inches in length and one in thickness, having a hollow quite through it, and a brown spot at one end. Four of these animals were joined together; but upon being put into water they separated and swam about. They resembled a gem in brightness, and shone in the water with fine colours. There was another animal of a more beautiful and lively colour, which was not unlike an opal. About ten leagues from Cape Finister, various birds were observed, which had not been described by Linnæus.

The islands of Puerto Santo and Madeira were discovered on the 12th, and the next day they anchored in Fonchial road. In heaving the anchor, Mr. Weir, the Master’s mate, was carried overboard and drowned. Mr. Banks found at Madeira a tree, called by the natives Vigniatico, the Laura indicus mentioned by Linnæus. The wood of this tree can scarce be distinguished from mahogany, which induced this gentleman to believe, that the wood called in England Madeira mahogany, was the Laura indicus; as no mahogany is exported from this island. The only article of trade in Madeira is wine, which is made in the following manner; the grapes are put into a square wooden vessel, the size of which is proportioned to the quantity; then the persons employed take off their cloaths, get into the vessel, and with their elbows and feet press out as much of the juice as they can; in this manner the stalks are then tied together, and pressed under another square piece of wood, by a lever and a stone, to extract the remainder of the juice. A whole vintage is frequently spoiled by the bad grapes being mixed with the others, which the inhabitants obstinately refuse throwing out, as the quantity of wine is increased by them.

There are no wheel-carriages in this island; the only resemblance of them is a hollow board, that may be called a sledge, and which serves to carry their wine vessels. The soil is so rich, and there is such a variety in the climate, between the hills and plains, that there is no object of luxury which grows either in India or Europe, that might not probably be cultivated here. Walnuts, chesnuts and apples, flourish almost without culture upon the hills. The pine-apple, the mango, the guava and the banana, grow almost spontaneously in the town. The corn is large grained and fine, and it might be produced in great abundance; nevertheless, the greatest part of what is consumed is imported. The beef, mutton, and pork, are likewise remarkably good, particularly the first, which induced the Captain to take some on board. Foncho, which is fennel in Portuguese, gave name to the town of Fonchial, that lies in latitude 20 degrees 33 minutes north, and longitude 16 degrees 49 minutes west. It is seated at the bottom of a bay, poorly built, though extensive in proportion to the island; the streets are narrow, and very badly paved. In the churches there are great numbers of ornaments, with pictures and images of saints; the first are, for the most part, done by mere daubers, and the latter are cloathed in laced habits. A better taste prevails in some of the convents, particularly that of the Franciscans; here simplicity and neatness unite, and give us a very favourable idea of these good fathers. The infirmary is also a building that does honour to the architect, and is the most considerable edifice in the whole place. There are many very high hills; Pico Ruivo is near 5100 feet in height, perpendicularly from its base. These hills are covered round with vines to a certain height, above which there are great numbers of chesnut and pine trees, and above them various sorts of timber, so thick as to form forests. The Mirmulano and Paobranco, which are found amongst them, are unknown in Europe. The latter is very beautiful, and would be greatly ornamental in our gardens. The inhabitants are computed to be between 70 and 80,000; and the revenue arising from the customs is supposed to amount to 20 or 30,000 pound sterling per annum. Water, wine, fruit and onions, are here in plenty; sweet-meats are also to be had without any difficulty; but permission must be obtained from the Governor for poultry and fresh meat. The Endeavour sailed from Madeira September 19. On the 22d they saw the Islands of Salvages, northward of the Canaries. The chief of these islands was about 5 leagues to the south one half west. These islands appear to lie in latitude 30 degrees 11 minutes north. On the 23d they saw the Peak of Teneriffe, bearing west by south. This mountain is near 15,400 feet high. On the 29th they saw Bona Vista, one of the Cape de Verd Islands, lying in latitude 16 degrees north, and longitude 21 degrees 48 minutes west. From Teneriffe to Bona Vista they observed flying fish in great numbers, which appeared very beautiful, their sides resembling burnished silver. Mr. Banks went out in a boat on the 7th of October, and caught what is called a Portuguese man of war, together with several marine animals of the Molusca tribe. They had now variable winds, with some showers of rain; and the dampness of the air did great injury to their iron utensils. October 19th Mr. Banks shot the black-toed gull, which has not been described by Linnæus. The dung of this bird is of a lively red.

They crossed the line with the usual ceremonies on the 25th of October.

When the Endeavour was, on the 28th of October, in the latitude of Ferdinand Noronha, and in longitude 32 degrees 5 minutes west, they looked out for the island, and the shoals which, according to the charts, lie between it and the main; but neither the island or the shoals could be discovered. On the 29th, in the evening, they saw the luminous appearance of the sea, mentioned by navigators: it emitted rays of light, resembling those of lightning. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, not being inclined to adopt any of the opinions that had prevailed with regard to the causes of this luminous appearance (such as its being caused by fish darting at its prey, by the putrefaction of fish and other inhabitants of the sea, and even by electricity) threw out a casting net, when they were confirmed in their suggestion, that it was occasioned by some luminous animal. A species of the medusa was caught, which resembled a metallic substance greatly heated, emitting a whitish light. Some crabs were brought up at the same time, which, though exceeding small, gave a very glittering appearance. These animals had hitherto escaped the observation of all naturalists.

Provisions beginning to fall short, it was determined to put into Rio de Janeiro. They saw the coast of Brazil on the 8th of November, and spoke with the people on board a Portuguese fishing-boat, who informed them, that the land which they saw was to the south of Sancto Espirito. Mr. Banks bought some fish of the people in the boat, and was much surprised to find that they refused Spanish silver, and wanted English shillings.

Their interpreters, who were a Venetian and Portuguese, informed them, that the crew of the fishing vessel declared, they had not seen a ship for eight years; this however they supposed to be a mistake, as they spoke such imperfect English, that it was almost impossible to understand them.

On the 13th, in the morning, we made sail for the harbour of Rio de Janeiro. Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant, was sent before in the pinnace to the city, to inform the Governor, we put in there for refreshments and water, and to obtain a pilot. The pinnace returned without the Lieutenant, who was detained by the Viceroy till the Captain came on shore. When the Endeavour came to an anchor, a ten-oared boat filled with soldiers came up, and rowed round the ship, without any conversation taking place. Soon after another boat came up, with several of the Viceroy’s officers; they enquired whence the Endeavour came; what her cargo consisted of; her number of men and guns; and her destination. These and several other questions were justly answered without equivocation; when they apologized for detaining the Lieutenant, and the other steps they had taken, pleading its being customary.

Captain Cook went on shore on the 14th, and obtained leave to purchase provisions, on condition of employing an inhabitant as a factor: to this the Captain objected, but in vain, as well as to the sending a soldier in the boat every time she went from the shore to the ship. Having requested, that the gentlemen on board might remain on shore whilst they sojourned, and that Mr. Banks might go up the country to collect plants; these requests were peremptorily refused. Captain Cook judging the Viceroy imagined they were come to trade, the Captain endeavoured to convince him of his mistake, by acquainting him, that they were bound to the southward, to observe the transit of Venus over the sun; a very interesting object to the advancement of navigation, of which phenomenon he appeared to be totally ignorant. An officer was appointed to attend the Captain; this, which he was told was meant as a compliment, he would have declined; but the Viceroy was too polite to allow his dispensing with the honour.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were greatly disappointed upon the Captain’s return, to find they were not permitted to reside on shore, and go up the country; and their chagrin was still farther increased, to hear they were not allowed even to leave the ship; the Viceroy having ordered, that only the Captain, and such sailors as were necessary to be upon duty, should be suffered to come on shore; probably its being reported, that these gentlemen came upon this voyage to make discoveries and observations, and possessed extraordinary abilities for such business, might occasion these rigid orders. They attempted, nevertheless, to come on shore, but were prevented by the guard-boat; though several of the crew, unknown to the centinel, stole out of the cabin window at midnight, letting themselves down by a rope into the boat, and driving away by the tide till they were out of hearing; they then rowed to some unfrequented part of the shore, where they landed, and made excursions up the country, though not so far as they could have wished. When the Captain went on shore to remonstrate with the Viceroy respecting these restrictions, the only answer that could be obtained was, that he acted in consequence of his Master’s orders. Thus situated, the Captain resolved to go no more on shore, rather than be a prisoner in his own boat, as the officer, who complimented him with his company, waited upon him both from and to the shore. It was now resolved to draw up two memorials to the Viceroy; one was written by the Captain, the other by Mr. Banks: they produced answers no way satisfactory. Captain Cook and Mr. Banks replied, and several written remonstrances and answers passed between them and the Viceroy, but to no purpose. The Captain judging it necessary, in vindication of his compliance, to urge the Viceroy to some act of force in the execution of his orders, he sent Lieutenant Hicks with a packet (on the 20th) ordering him not to allow a guard in his boat. The officer of the guard-boat finding the Lieutenant resolved to obey the Captain’s command, did not oppose him by force, but accompanying the Lieutenant on shore, went to the Viceroy, and acquainted him with what had passed, which induced his Excellency to refuse opening the packet, commanding the Lieutenant to return. He found a guard had been put on board his boat in his absence, and insisted upon the soldiers quitting it. The officer now seized the boat’s crew, and conducted them to prison, under an escorte; and the Lieutenant was sent back to the ship under a guard. When Mr. Hicks had acquainted the Captain with these transactions on shore, the latter wrote to the Viceroy, demanding his boat and men, and inclosed the memorial, which he would not receive from the hands of the Lieutenant. The bearer of this express was a petty officer, in order to avoid continuing the dispute about a guard, which a commissioned officer must have kept up. Having delivered his packet, an answer was promised.

In the interim, in a sudden gust of wind, the long-boat, with four pipes of rum (by the rope breaking that was thrown her from the ship) went a-drift windward of her, with a small skift of Mr. Banks’s that was fastened to her. The misfortune was still greater as the pinnace was on shore. The yawl was manned immediately, but did not return till next morning, when she brought all the people on board. From them Captain Cook learnt, that the long-boat having filled with water, they had brought her to a grappling, and quitted her, and falling in with a reef of rocks on their return, they were compelled to cut a-drift the little boat belonging to Mr. Banks. In this situation the Captain dispatched another letter to the Viceroy, acquainting him with the accident, at the same time desiring he would assist them with a boat to recover their own: this was accompanied with a fresh demand of the pinnace and her crew. His Excellency at length complied with both the request and demand; and the same day they fortunately recovered the long-boat and skift. In the Viceroy’s answer to the Captain’s remonstrance, he expressed some doubts of the Endeavour being a King’s ship, and accused the crew of smuggling. Mr. Banks’s servants had, its true, by stratagem, got on shore (the 22d) early in the morning, and remained till night, but brought on board only plants and insects. In Mr. Cook’s reply, he said he was willing to shew his Excellency his commission again, the Viceroy having already seen it; and that if any attempt to carry on a contraband trade should be repeated, desired his Excellency would take the offender into custody. Thus terminated the dispute.

Mr. Banks (on the 26th in the morning) artfully eluded the vigilance of the guard, and went on shore: he avoided the town, and passed the day in the fields, where the chief objects of his curiosity lay. The people behaved with civility, invited him to their habitations, and he purchased a young pig for eleven shillings, and some other things. But the next day it was reported, that search was making for him and Dr. Solander, which induced them to lay aside all thoughts of going again on shore.

Being prepared for sea, with water and provisions, they took on board a pilot the 1st of December, but the wind being contrary, they were prevented getting out. The next day a Spanish packet arrived from Buenos Ayres, for Spain, when the Captain politely offered to take Mr. Cook’s dispatches to Europe; and he accordingly sent, by that conveyance, all the papers that had passed between him and the Viceroy, leaving duplicates with his Excellency for his court.

The Endeavour did not get under sail till the 7th, when having passed the Fort the pilot was discharged, and the guard-boat quitted them at the same time. During the last three or four days of their remaining at Rio de Janeiro, the air was covered with butterflies, chiefly of one kind.

From the observations of the writer of the first account of this voyage, we have the following description of the town and country. Rio de Janeiro, is supposed to have been thus named on account of its being discovered on the festival of saint Januarius. The town, which is the capital of the dominions of the Portuguese, in America, borrows its name from the river Januarius.

It is situated on the west side of the river, from which it extends itself about three quarters of a mile. The ground on which it stands is a level plain; it is defended on the north side by a hill that extends from the river, leaving a small plain, which contains the suburbs and the King’s dock. On the south side is another hill, running towards the mountains which are behind the town. Some of its streets run parallel from north to south, and are intersected by others at right angles. The principal street is near an hundred feet in width, and extends from St. Benedict to the foot of Castle-hill; the other streets are commonly twenty or thirty feet wide. The houses adjoining to the principal street have three stories, but in other places they are very irregular, though built after the same manner as in Lisbon. In the town are four convents; the first is that of the Benedictines, situated near its northern extremity; this structure affords an agreeable prospect, and contains an elegant chapel, which is ornamented with several valuable paintings. The second is that of the Carmelites, which forms the centre angle of the royal square, and fronts the harbour; its church had fallen some time before, but it is again rebuilding in a very elegant manner, with fine free-stone brought thither from Lisbon. The third is that of St. Anthony, situated on the point of a hill on the south side of the town; before this convent stands a large bason of brown granite, in the form of a parallelogram, which is employed in washing. The fourth is situated at the eastern extremity of the town, and was formerly the Jesuits convent, but is now converted into a military hospital.

The Viceroy’s palace forms the right angle of the royal square: the palace, mint, stables, goal, &c. compose but one large building, which has two stories, and is ninety feet from the water. In passing through the palace, the first entrance is to a large hall or guard-room, to which there is an ascent of three or four steps. In the guard-room are stationed the body guards who attend the Viceroy, and are relieved every morning between eight and nine. Adjoining to the hall are the stables, the prison being in the back part of the building. Within the guard-room is a flight of stairs for ascending to the upper story; this divides at a landing-place about half way, and forms two branches, one leading to the right, and the other to the left. The former enters a saloon, where there are two officers in constant attendance; the Viceroy’s aid-du-camp at the same time waiting in an anti-chamber to receive messages and deliver orders.

The left wing of the royal square is an irregular building, which consists chiefly of shops occupied by trading people. In the center of the square is a fountain supplied with water from a spring at the distance of three miles, from which it is brought by an aqueduct. From this fountain both the shipping and inhabitants are supplied with water, the place being continually crowded with negroes of both sexes waiting to fill their jars. At every corner of the streets is an altar. The market-place extends from the north-east end of the square along the shore; and this situation is very convenient for the fishing-boats, and those who bring vegetables from the other side of the river to market. Negroes are almost the only people employed in selling the different commodities exposed in the market, and they employ their leisure time in spinning of cotton.

Without the Jesuits college on the shore is a village called Neustra Seignora del Gloria, which is joined to the town by a very few intervening houses. Three or four hundred yards within the Jesuits convent stands a very high castle, but it is falling to decay. The bishop’s palace is about three hundred yards behind the Benedictine convent, and contiguous to it is a magazine of arms, surrounded by a rampart.

The gentry here keep their chaises, which are drawn by mules; the ladies however use a sedan chair, boarded before and behind, with curtains on each side, which is carried by two negroes, depending from a pole connected to the top of the chair by two iron rods coming from under its bottom, one on each side, and resting at the top. The inhabitants likewise use hammocks or rajas, supported in the same manner, and surrounded with curtains.

In this town the apothecaries shops commonly serve the purposes of a coffee-house, people meeting in them to drink capillaire, and play at back-gammon. The gentry when seen abroad are well dressed, though at home they are but loosely covered: the shopkeepers have commonly short hair, and wear linen jackets with sleeves. Beggars, who infest the streets of most European cities, are not to be found in this.

With regard to the women, it is on all hands agreed, that the females of the Portuguese and Spanish settlements in South America, are less averse to granting amorous favours, than those of any other civilized part of the globe. According to Dr. Solander’s account, as soon as the evening began, females appeared on all sides in every window, and particularized those of the male sex they liked by giving them nosegays; the Doctor and two other gentlemen received so many of these bouquets, that they threw handfuls away.

The climate of Rio de Janeiro is both agreeable and healthy, being free from many inconveniencies that are incident to other tropical countries. The air is but seldom immoderately hot, as the sea breeze constantly begins to blow about ten o’clock in the morning, and continues until night, when it is generally succeeded by a land wind, though this does not always happen. The seasons are divided into rainy and dry; though their stationary periods have lately become very irregular and uncertain: indeed the rainy seasons had almost entirely failed the four years preceding their arrival, at which time the rains had just begun, and they fell in large quantities during their stay: formerly the streets have been overflowed by the rain, and rendered impassable except with canoes.

The adjacent country is mountainous, and chiefly covered with wood, but a small part of it appearing to be cultivated. The soil near the town is loose and sandy, but farther from the river it is a fine black mould. It produces all the tropical fruits, such as oranges, lemons, limes, melons, mangoes, cocoa-nuts, &c. in great abundance, and without much cultivation; a circumstance which is very agreeable to the inhabitants, who are very indolent.

The mines, which lie far up in the country, are very rich; but their situation is concealed, and nobody can view them, except those who work in them. The experiment is very dangerous, for every one found upon the road which leads to them is hung upon the next tree, unless he can give a satisfactory account of the cause of his being in that situation. About twelve months before their arrival, the government had detected several jewellers in carrying on an illicit trade for diamonds with the slaves in the mines; and immediately after a law passed, making it felony to work at the trade, or have any tools in possession, the civil officers having indiscriminately seized on all that could be found. Near forty thousand negroes are annually imported to dig in the mines; these works are so pernicious to the human frame, and occasion so great a mortality amongst the poor wretches employed in them, that in the year 1766 twenty thousand more were draughted from the town of Rio, to supply the deficiency of the former number.

There are several courts of justice in the town, at all of which the Viceroy presides; in criminal causes the sentence is regulated by a majority of voices in the supreme court. The Viceroy has a Council appointed from Europe by the king, to assist him in his private department, where he has two voices.

The inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro maintain a whale-fishery, which supplies them with lamp-oil. They import their brandy from the Azores, their slaves and East India goods from their settlements in Africa, their wine from Madeira, and their European goods from Lisbon.

The current coin is Portuguese, which is struck here; the silver pieces are called Petacks, of different value; and the copper are five and ten ree pieces.

Rio de Janeiro is very useful for ships that are in want of refreshment; the harbour is safe and commodious, and may be distinguished by a remarkable hill, in the shape of a cone, at the west point of the bay. The entrance is not wide, but it is easy, from the sea breeze, which prevails from noon to sun-set, for any ship to enter before the wind. The entrance of the narrow part is defended by two forts, La Cruz and Lozia; they are about three quarters of a mile from each other. The bottom being rocky, renders it dangerous to anchor here, but this may be avoided by keeping the middle of the channel. The whole coast abounds with a very great variety of fish, among which are dolphins and mackrel.

On the 9th of December they took out of the sea an incredible number of atoms, of a yellowish colour, few of them more than the 50th part of an inch in length; it could not even with a microscope be determined whether they were animal or vegetable substances. These atoms tinged the sea in such a manner, as to cover it with broad streaks of a colour similar to themselves, the greatest part of a mile in length, and several hundred yards in width.

Thursday, December 8, 1768, having procured all necessary supplies, they left Rio de Janeiro; they did not meet with any material occurrence from this time to the 22d, when they discovered numerous birds of the Prosillaria genus, in latitude 39 degrees 37 minutes south, and longitude 49 degrees 16 minutes west; they were also frequently surrounded by great numbers of porpoises, of a singular species, which were about fifteen feet in length, and of an ash-colour. On the 23d they observed an eclipse of the moon; and about seven o’clock in the morning a small white cloud appeared in the west, from which a train of fire issued, extending itself westerly: about two minutes after they heard two distinct loud explosions, immediately succeeding each other like canon, after which the cloud soon disappeared.

On the 24th they caught a large loggerhead tortoise, weighing one hundred and fifty pounds. They likewise shot several birds, among which was an albetross, measuring between the tips of its wings nine feet and an inch; and from its beak to the tail two feet one inch and an half. On the 30th they ran upwards of fifty leagues, through vast numbers of land insects, some in the air, and others upon the water; they appeared to resemble exactly the flies that are seen in England, though they were thirty leagues from land, and some of these insects never quit it beyond a few yards. Captain Cook imagined he was at this time nearly opposite to the bay called Sans fond (without bottom) where it is supposed, by some writers, that the continent of America is divided by a passage; but it was the opinion of the gentlemen on board, that there might be a large river, which probably had occasioned an inundation. The 31st they had much thunder, lightning, and rain: this and the three following days they saw several whales, and likewise several birds, about the size of a pidgeon, with white bellies and grey beaks.

January 4, 1769, they saw an appearance of land, which they mistook for Pepys’ island; but on their standing towards it, it proved, what the sailors call a Fog Bank. The ship’s crew were about this time, on their complaining of cold, furnished with each a pair of trowsers, and a jacket made of the stuff called Fearnought. They saw on the 11th, after passing Falkland’s Island, at about four leagues distance, Terra Del Fuego. Smoke was perceived, which they took for a signal, as it did not continue after they had passed along the shore to the south-east. On the 14th they entered the streight of Le Maire; but the tide being against them, they were driven out with great violence, and the waves ran so high, that the ship’s bowsprit was frequently under water; at length however they got anchorage, at the entrance of a little cove, which Captain Cook called St. Vincent’s Bay.

The weeds, which here grow upon rocky ground, are very remarkable; they appear above the surface in eight and nine fathoms water; the leaves are four feet in length, and many of the stalks, though not more than an inch and a half in circumference, above 100. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander having been on shore some hours, they returned with more than a hundred different plants and flowers, hitherto unnoticed by the European botanists. The country in general near the bay was flat, and the bottom particularly was a plain covered with grass; here was plenty of wood, water and fowl, winter’s bark was found in great abundance. The trees are a species of the birch, but are neither lofty nor large; the wood is white, and they bear a small leaf. Here are also white and red cranberries.

Sunday 15, having anchored in 12 fathoms, upon coral rocks, before a small cove, distant from shore about a mile, two of the natives came down upon the beach, in expectation that they would land; but this situation affording little shelter, the Captain got under sail again, and the natives retired.

About two o’clock they anchored in the bay of Good Success, and the Captain went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to search for a watering-place, and confer with the Indians. These gentlemen proceeded about a hundred yards before the Captain, when two of the Indians having advanced forward and seated themselves, they rose, upon Mr. Banks and the Doctor’s coming up, and each of them threw away a small stick, which they had before in their hands; this they did in such a direction, that the sticks flew both from themselves and the strangers, which they meant as a token of peace, and a testimonial of their renouncing weapons; they then returned briskly towards their companions, who had remained at some distance behind, and made signs to the strangers to advance, which they accordingly complied with. The reception the gentlemen met with was friendly, though the manner was uncouth. The civility was returned, by the distribution of beads and ribbons, with which the Indians were much pleased. After a mutual confidence had been thus established, the rest of the English party joined, and a general conversation, though of a singular kind, ensued. Three of the Indians now returned with the Captain and his friends to the ship, whom they cloathed with jackets, and gave them bread, jerked beef, &c. part of which they eat, and carried the remainder on shore. They refused to drink rum or brandy, after tasting them, intimating by signs that it burnt their throats. This circumstance may perhaps corroborate the opinion of those who think water the natural drink of mankind, as of all other animals. One of these Indians made several long and loud speeches, though no part of either was intelligible to any of us. Another of them stole the covering of a globe, which he concealed under his skin garment. After remaining on board about two hours, they returned on shore, Mr. Banks accompanying them. He conducted them to their companions, who appeared no way curious to know what their friends had seen, and the latter were as little disposed to relate as the others were to enquire. None of these people exceeded five feet ten inches in height, yet their bodies appeared large and robust, though their limbs were small. They had broad flat faces, low foreheads, high cheeks, noses inclining to flatness, wide nostrils, small black eyes, large mouths, small but indifferent teeth, and black strait hair, falling down over their ears and forehead, which was commonly smeared with brown and red paints; and, like all the original natives of America, they were beardless. Their garments were the skins of guanicos and seals, which they wrapped round their shoulders. The men likewise wear on their heads a bunch of yarn, spun from the wool of guanicos, which falls over their foreheads, and ties behind with the sinews or tendons of some animal. Many of both sexes were painted in different parts of their bodies, with red, white, and brown colours; and had also three or four perpendicular lines pricked across their cheeks and noses. The women have a small string tied round each ancle, and wear each a flap of skin tied round the middle. They carry the children on their backs, and are generally employed in domestic labour and drudgery.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, attended by servants, set out from the ship on the 16th, in the morning, with the design of going into the country as far as they could that day, and returning in the evening. Having entered a wood, they ascended the hill through a pathless wilderness till the afternoon. After they had reached what they had taken for a plain, they were greatly disappointed in finding it a swamp, covered with birch, the bushes interwoven, and so inflexible they could not be divided; however, as they were not above three feet high, they stept over them; but they were up to the ancles in the boggy ground. The morning had been very fine, but the weather now became cold and disagreeable; the blasts of wind were very piercing, and a shower of snow fell. They nevertheless pursued their route, in expectation of finding a better road. Before they had got over this swamp, an accident happened that greatly disconcerted them; Mr. Buchan, one of the draughtsmen Mr. Banks had brought out, fell into a fit. It was absolutely necessary to stop and kindle a fire, and such as were most fatigued remained to assist him; but Messrs. Banks, Solander, Green and Monkhouse, proceeded and attained the spot they had in view. Here they found a great variety of plants, that gratified their curiosity, and repaid them for their toil.

Upon returning to the rest of the company, amidst the snow which fell in greater abundance, and being pinched with the cold that was now become more intense, they found Mr. Buchan much recovered. They had previously sent Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Green back to Mr. Buchan, and those who remained with him, in order to bring them to a hill, which was conjectured to lie in a better track for returning to the wood, and was accordingly fixed on as a place of rendezvous. They resolved from this hill to pass through the swamp, which this way did not appear to be more than half a mile in extent, into the covert of the wood, in which they proposed building a hut and kindling a fire, to defend them from the severity of the weather. The whole party accordingly met at the place appointed about eight in the evening, whilst it was still day-light, and proceeded towards the next valley. Dr. Solander having often passed mountains in cold countries, was sensible that extreme cold, when joined with fatigue, occasions a drowsiness, that is not easily resisted; he accordingly intreated his friends to keep in motion, however disagreeable it might be to them; his words were, “Whoever sits down, will sleep; and whoever sleeps, will wake no more.” Every one seemed accordingly armed with resolution; but on a sudden the cold became so very intense, as to threaten the most direful effects. It was very remarkable, that Dr. Solander himself, who had so forcibly admonished and alarmed his party, should be the first who insisted upon being suffered to repose. In spite of the most earned intreaties of his friends, he lay down amidst the snow, and it was with great difficulty they kept the Doctor awake. One of the black servants became also weary and faint, and was upon the point of following the Doctor’s example. Mr. Buchan was therefore detached with a party to make a fire at the first commodious spot they could meet with. Mr. Banks, with four more, remained with the Doctor and Richmond the black, who, with the utmost difficulty, were induced to come on; but when they had traversed the greatest part of the swamp, they expressed their inability of going any farther. When the black was informed, that if he remained there he would soon be frozen to death; he replied, that he was so exhausted with fatigue, that death would be a relief to him. Doctor Solander said he was not unwilling to go, but that he must first take some sleep, notwithstanding what he had before declared to the company. Thus resolved, they both sat down, supported by bushes, and in a short time fell fast asleep. Intelligence now came from the advanced party, that a fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. Banks then waked the Doctor, who had almost lost the use of his limbs already, though it was but a few minutes since he sat down; he nevertheless consented to go on. Every measure taken to relieve the black proved ineffectual, he remained motionless, and they were obliged to leave him to the care of the other black servant and a sailor, who appeared to have been the least hurt by the cold, and they were to be relieved, as soon as two others were sufficiently warmed to supply their places. The Doctor was with much difficulty got to the fire. Those who were sent to relieve the companions of Richmond, returned in about half an hour, without being able to find them. What rendered the mortification still greater was, that a bottle of rum, the whole stock of the party, could not be found, and was judged to have been left to one of the three who were missing. There was a fall of snow, which incessantly continued for near two hours, and there remained no hopes of seeing the three absentees again, at least, alive. About 12 o’clock, however, a great shouting was heard at a distance, which gave inexpressible satisfaction to every one present. Mr. Banks and four others went forth and met the sailor, with just strength enough to walk; he was immediately sent to the fire, and they proceeded to seek for the two others. They found Richmond upon his legs, but incapable of moving them; the other black was lying senseless upon the ground. All endeavours to bring them to the fire were fruitless, nor was it possible to kindle one upon the spot, on account of the snow that had fallen, and was still falling, so that there was no alternative, and they were compelled to leave the two unfortunate negroes to their fate, making them, however, a bed of boughs of trees, and covering them very thick with the same.

As all hands had been employed in endeavouring to move the two blacks to the fire, and had therefore been exposed to the cold for near an hour and a half, some of them began to be afflicted in the same manner as those they went to relieve. Briscoe, another of Mr. Banks’s servants, in particular, began to lose his sensibility. They at length reached the fire, and passed the night in a very disagreeable manner. The party that set out from the ship consisted of twelve, of whom two were already judged to be dead: it was doubtful whether a third would be able to return on board; and Mr. Buchan, a fourth, seemed threatened again with his fits. The ship was at the distance of a long day’s journey, through an unfrequented wood, in which they might probably be bewildered till night; and being equipped only for a journey of a few hours, they had not provisions left sufficient to afford the company a single meal.

On the 17th in the morning, at day-break, nothing presented itself to view all around but snow, the trees being equally covered with it as the ground; and the blasts of wind were so violent and frequent, that their journey was rendered impracticable, and there was much reason to dread perishing with cold and famine. However, about six in the morning they were flattered with a dawn of hope of being delivered, by discovering the sun through the clouds, which gradually diminished. Previous to their setting out, messengers were dispatched to the unhappy negroes, who returned with the melancholy news of their death.

Though the sky had flattered their hopes, the snow still continued falling very fast, which prevented them beginning their journey so soon as was proposed; but a breeze springing up about 8 o’clock, added to the influence of the sun, began to clear the air; and the snow falling in large flakes from the trees, announced a thaw. The force of hunger prevailed over every other consideration, and induced them, after having equally divided the small remains of their provisions, to set forward on their journey about 10 in the morning.

In about three hours, to their great astonishment and satisfaction, they found themselves upon the shore, much nearer to the ship than their most sanguine expectations could have flattered them. When they took a retrospect of their former route from the sea, they found, that instead of ascending the hill in a direct line, they had made a circle almost round the country. The congratulations every one on board expressed at their return, can better be imagined than expressed.

On the 20th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again on shore, and landed in the bottom of the bay, when they collected many shells and plants hitherto unknown. They returned on board to dinner, and afterwards went to visit an Indian town about two miles up the country. The access was difficult on account of the mud. When they approached the town, two of the Indians came out to meet them: they began to shout in the same unmeaning manner as they had before done on board the ship. After this had continued for some time, they conducted Mr. Banks and the Doctor to the town. It was seated on a small hill, over-shaded with wood, and consisted of about a dozen huts; constructed without art or regularity. They were composed of a few poles inclining towards each other, in the shape of a sugar loaf, which were covered on the weather-side with grass and boughs; and on the other side a space was left open, which served at once for a fire-place and a door. The huts that had been seen in St. Vincent’s Bay were of the same kind. A little grass served for beds and chairs, and their utensils consisted of a basket for the hand, a satchel to hang upon the back, and a bladder for water; out of which they drank through a hole near the top. This town was inhabited by a small tribe, consisting of about 50 men, women and children. Their bows and arrows were constructed with neatness and ingenuity: they were made of wood highly polished; and the point, which was either glass or flint, was fitted with much skill. Mr. Banks observed glass and flint amongst them unwrought, with cloth, canvass, rings and buttons, &c. it was therefore judged, that they travelled at times to the north, as no ship had touched at this part of Terra del Fuego for some years.

Neither did they testify any surprise at the sight of fire arms, and appeared to be well acquainted with their use. Probably the spot on which Mr. Banks and the Doctor met them, was not a fixed habitation; their houses not being erected to stand any length of time, and they were destitute of a boat or canoe. They did not seem to have any form of government among them, nor did there appear any kind of subordination. These people appeared upon the whole to be the out-casts of human nature, whose lives were passed in wandering in a forlorn manner over dreary wastes⁠—whose only dwelling was a wretched hovel, such as has been described, and their cloaths scarcely sufficient to prevent their perishing with cold in the summer of this country, much less in the extreme severity of winter; their only food was shell-fish, which must soon be exhausted at any one spot; destitute of every convenience arising from the rudest art, or even an implement to dress their food. Such were these people, who nevertheless appeared content; so little does refinement or luxury promote happiness.

They observed no quadruped animals except seals, sea lions and dogs. Mr. Banks saw, from a hill, the impression of the foot-steps of a large beast on the surface of a bog, but he could not determine of what kind it was. This gentleman observed no land-birds larger than an English black-bird, except hawks and vultures; there were however ducks, and other water fowl in abundance; likewise shell-fish, muscles, clams and limpets in great plenty.

It is remarkable, that in this country, though uncleared, there was no species of hurtful or troublesome animals. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander found a great variety of plants. The beach and the birch may be used for timber. The scurvy-grass and wild celery, it is imagined, contain antiscorbutic qualities; and may therefore be of service to the crews of such ships as hereafter touch at this place. The former is found in abundance near springs and in damp places, particularly at the watering-place in the Bay of Good Success, and resembles the cuckow-flower or lady’s-smock in England. The wild-celery resembles the celery in our gardens, but the leaves are of a deeper green. It grows in great plenty near the beach, and upon the land above the spring-tides; and tastes like parsley mixed with celery. In the morning of Sunday, January 22, Captain Cook having got in his wood and water, sailed out of the bay, and steered his course through the streight.

The generality of writers, who have described the island of Terra del Fuego, have represented it as covered with snow, and destitute of wood. In this however they are evidently mistaken, and their error must have arisen from having visited it in the winter season, when it possibly is covered with snow. The crew of the Endeavour perceived trees when they were at a considerable distance from the island, and on their nearer approach, they found the sea coast and the sides of the hills clothed with an agreeable verdure. The summit of the hills are barren, but the vallies are rich, and a brook is to be found at the foot of almost every hill; the water has a reddish tinge, but is not ill tasted, and was some of the best Captain Cook took in during his whole voyage.

The streight of Le Maire is bounded on the west by Terra del Fuego, and on the east by the west end of Staten Land, and is near five leagues in length, and as many in breadth. The bay of Good Success is seated about the middle of it on the side of Terra del Fuego, which presents itself upon entering the streight from the northward; and the south head of it may be distinguished by a land-mark, resembling a road from the sea to the country. It affords good anchorage, and plenty of wood and water. Staten Land did not appear to Captain Cook in the manner described in Lord Anson’s Voyage; the horror and wildness with which it is there depicted was not discernable to Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen; on the contrary, the land was neither destitute of wood nor verdure, nor covered with snow, and on the north side there appeared bays and harbours. This difference may also probably arise from their not having visited the place in the same season of the year.

Thursday, January 26, Capt. Cook sailed from Cape Horn. The farthest southern latitude he made was 60 degrees 10 minutes, by 74 degrees 30 minutes west. The weather being very calm, Mr. Banks sailed in a small boat to shoot birds, when he killed some sheer-waters and albatrosses; the latter were larger than those caught to the north of the streight; the sheer-waters were less, and their backs darker coloured. The albatrosses proved very good eating.

Notwithstanding the doubling of Cape Horn is represented as a very dangerous course, and that it is generally thought passing through the streight of Magellan is less perilous, the Endeavour doubled it with as little danger as the North Foreland on the Kentish coast; the heavens were fair, the wind temperate, the weather pleasant, and, being near shore, they had a very distinct view of the coast.

Wednesday, March 1, Captain Cook was in latitude 38 degrees 44 minutes south, and longitude 110 degrees 33 minutes west, as well by observation as by the log; which concurrence, after a course of 660 leagues, was judged very singular; from whence it was plain, he had no currents that affected the ship, and most probably had not approached any land of great extent, as there are always currents near lands of considerable compass. Mr. Banks killed more than sixty birds in one day, and he caught two forest flies of the same species, but never yet described: he also found a cuttle fish, which had just been killed by the birds; it was different from the fishes of this name, met with in the European seas, having a double row of sharp talons, resembling those of a cat, which issued or retracted at will. This fish made excellent soup.

Saturday, the 25th, on account of a squabble about a bit of seal-skin, which he had taken in a frolic, but which was represented to his officer as a theft, one of the marines, a young fellow about twenty, threw himself overboard, and was drowned.

About 10 o’clock, Tuesday, April 4, Peter Briscoe, servant to Mr. Banks, discovered land to the south, about three or four leagues distant. The Captain immediately hauled up for it, and found it to be an island of an oval form, with a lake or lagoon in the center, that extended over the greatest part of it; the border of land which surrounded the lake was in many places low and narrow, especially towards the south, where the beach consisted of a reef of rocks; three places on the north side had the same appearance. This dismembrance of the firm land, made the whole resemble several woody islands. To the west was a large clump of trees, and in the center two cocoa-nut trees. Captain Cook came within a mile on the north side, but though he cast a line of 130 fathom, he found no bottom, and could not meet with any anchorage. The island appeared covered with trees of different sorts, but the gentlemen on board could not ascertain any, with glasses, except palm-nuts and cocoa-nuts; there were several natives visible on shore; they seemed tall, with remarkable large heads, which might probably be increased by some bandage; their hair was black, and their complexions copper colour. There appeared along the beach, a-breast of the ship, some of these inhabitants, with pikes or poles in their hands, which seemed twice the height of themselves: they at this time appeared naked; but when they retired, upon the ship’s passing the island, they put on a covering of a light colour. Some clumps of palm-trees served them for habitations, and at a distance resembled hilly ground, and the groves had a very happy effect. This island was in latitude 18 degrees south longitude, 139 28 west, and was named Lagoon Island.

Captain Cook saw land again in the afternoon to the north-west. He reached it by sun-set, when it appeared a low island covered with wood, in form circular, about a mile in circumference. No inhabitants were visible, nor any cocoa-nut trees; though the Endeavour had reached the shore within half a mile, yet the island appeared covered with verdure of various tinges. This island, which is distant from that of Lagoon, about seven leagues north 62 west. The gentlemen on board named Thrumb Cap.

Wednesday the 5th they continued their course with a fine trade wind, and about three o’clock discovered land to the west. This was a low island between 10 and 12 leagues in circumference; it resembled in form a bow, the cord and arch forming the land, and the interstice marking the water; the beach was flat, without any visible herbage upon it, being covered with sea-weeds. Its length was between three and four leagues, and its width about 200 yards; the bow terminated with two large tufts of cocoa-nut trees; the arch was covered with trees of various heights, and of different verdure; some parts of it, however, was low, and resembled the cord. They sailed along the beach, within a league, till sun-set, when they judged they were half-way between the two tufts of trees; here they sounded. This island, from the smoke that was discovered, appeared to be inhabited, and it was named Bow Island. Captain Cook’s second Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, said, after they had sailed by the island, that he had perceived several of the natives under the first clump of trees, that he had discriminated their houses, and observed many canoes hauled up. But he was the only person who made these observations, though there were several upon deck besides himself.

About noon, on Thursday the 6th, they saw land again to the west, and at three o’clock they came up with it. This land seemed divided into two islands, or rather collections of islands, their extent being near nine leagues. The two largest were divided from each other by a streight of near half a mile in breadth.

Some of these islands were ten miles or more in length, but appeared like long narrow strings of land, not above a quarter of a mile broad; they seemed, however, to produce trees of different kinds, among which was the cocoa-nut tree. Several of the inhabitants came out in their canoes, and two of them appeared to have a design of coming on board; but they, with the rest, stopped at the reef. When Captain Cook had got about a league from the shore, he perceived some of the natives following in a canoe, with a sail: he did not think proper to wait for her, and though she had passed the reef, she discontinued her course. These people appeared to be about our size, and well made: their complexion was brown, and they seemed naked; they had, for the most part, two weapons in their hands; one was a thin long pole, with a kind of spear at the end; the other resembled a paddle; some of their canoes were constructed to carry not more than three men; others had on board six or seven; one hoisted a sail, which, upon the falling of a shower of rain, was taken down and converted into an awning. It could not be determined whether the signals made by the people on shore were designed to deter the Endeavour’s company from landing, or as an invitation to come on shore; these waved their hats, the others answered by shouting. The Captain did not judge it prudent or merciful to be convinced in this respect, as the island appeared of no importance, and the crew were not destitute of any thing it could produce; and as it must have proved a bloody contest on the side of the unarmed Indians. This curiosity was therefore laid aside, in expectation of soon discovering the island, where they had been directed to make their astronomical observations, the natives of which, it is reasonable to conjecture, would make no opposition to the landing of the gentlemen on board, having already experienced the danger of resistance.

Captain Cook discovered another island on the seventh, about six in the morning, which was judged to be in compass about five miles. It was very low, with a piece of water in the center, and appeared to abound in wood, and to be covered with verdure, but no inhabitants were visible. It was called Bird Island, from the number of birds that were flying about.

Saturday 8, in the afternoon, they saw land to the north, and in the evening came a-breast of it, at about five miles distance. This land seemed to be a chain of low islands, it was of an oval figure, and consisted of coral and sand, with a few clumps of small trees, and in the middle of it was a lagoon. It was, from its appearance, called Chain Island. They saw smoke, which arose from different parts, by which they were convinced it was inhabited.

On Monday the 10th, after a tempestuous night, Captain Cook saw Osnaburgh Island; it is called by the natives Maite. This island is high and circular, about four miles in circumference; it is partly naked and rocky, and partly covered with trees.

The same day, upon their looking out for the island to which they were destined, they saw land a-head. The next morning it appeared very high and mountainous, and it was known to be King George the IIId’s Island, so named by Captain Wallis, but by the natives called Otaheite. The calms prevented the Endeavour from approaching it till the morning of the 12th, when a breeze springing up, before 11 several canoes were making towards the ship; only a few approached, and the people on board those that came the nearest would not come on board Captain Cook. Each canoe had in it young plantains, and branches of trees. They were brought, as Captain Cook was afterwards informed, as tokens of peace and friendship, and they were handed up the sides of the ship by the people in one of the canoes, who made signals in a very expressive manner, intimating, that they desired these emblems of pacification should be placed in a conspicuous part of the ship; and they were accordingly stuck amongst the rigging, at which they certified their approbation. Their cargoes consisting of cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread fruit, apples and figs, which were very acceptable to the crew, and were then purchased.

In the evening they opened the north-west point, and saw York Island, so named by the crew of the Dolphin. They lay off and on all night, and in the morning of the 13th they entered Port Royal Harbour, in the island of Otaheite, and anchored within half a mile of the shore. A great number of the natives immediately came off in their canoes, bringing with them bananas, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, apples, and some hogs, which they bartered with the snip’s crew for beads and other trinkets.

The tree that bears the bread-fruit is about the size of the horse-chesnut; its leaves are near a foot and a half long, in shape oblong, resembling, in almost every respect, those of the fig-tree; its fruit is not unlike the cantaloupe melon, either in size or shape; it is inclosed in a thin skin, and its core is as large as a person’s thumb; it is somewhat of the consistency of new bread, and as white as the blanched almon: it divides into parts, and they roast it before it is eaten; it has little or no taste. An elderly man, named Owhaw, who was known to Mr. Gore and others, who had visited this island with Captain Wallis, came on board, and as he was considered a useful man, the Captain endeavoured to gratify all his enquiries. Captain Cook now drew up several necessary rules for the regulation of their traffic with the inhabitants, and ordered that they should be punctually observed.

When the ship was properly secured, the Captain went on shore with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, a party under arms, and their friend the old Indian. They were received on shore by some hundreds of the natives, who were struck with such awe, that the first who approached crept almost upon his hands and knees. He also presented to them branches of trees, the usual symbol of peace. This symbol was received, on the part of the English gentlemen, with demonstrations of satisfaction and friendship; and noticing, that while each of the Indians held one of these branches in his hand, they gathered some, and followed the example of the natives.

They were conducted by the old Indian, accompanied by his countrymen, towards the place where the Dolphin had watered; here the ground being cleared, the chiefs of the natives threw down their boughs, and the Captain and his companions followed the example, after having drawn up the marines, who, marching in order, dropped their branches upon those of the Indians. When they came to the watering-place, the Indians intimated, that they had their permission to occupy that ground, but it was not suited to their purpose. In the course of this walk, and a circuit through the woods, the Indians had got rid of their timidity, and became familiarized. On the way they received beads and other small presents, at which they expressed great pleasure.

The whole circuit was near four miles, thro’ groves, consisting of trees of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. Beneath which trees were the habitations of the natives, consisting of only a roof, destitute of walls. In this peregrination the gentlemen were not a little disappointed at finding very few fowls or hogs. Captain Cook was informed by such of the party as had been here with the Dolphin, that none of the people hitherto seen were of the first rank, and they imagined the Queen’s residence was moved, no traces remaining of it. Next morning, before they left the ship, several canoes came about her, filled with people, whose dress denoted them of the superior class: two of these came on board, and each of them fixed upon a friend; one of them chose Mr. Banks, and the other Captain Cook. The ceremony consisted of taking off their cloaths in great part, and putting them upon their adopted friends. This compliment was returned, by presenting them some trinkets. They then made signs for these gentlemen to go with them to the place of their abode; and the Captain being desirous of meeting with a more convenient harbour, and knowing more of the people, readily assented. Accordingly the Captain, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, with the Indians and other friends, got into two boats. About three miles distance they landed, among several hundreds of the natives, who conducted them to a large house. Upon their entrance they saw a middle aged man, named Tootahah, who, as soon as they were seated, ordered a cock and hen to be produced, which he presented to Mr. Banks and the Captain, as well as a piece of perfumed cloth; which compliment was returned by a present from Mr. Banks. They were then conducted with great civility to several large houses, constructed in the same manner as those already described; the ladies, so far from shunning, invited, and even pressed them to be seated. Whilst they were afterwards walking along the shore, they met, accompanied by a great number of natives, another Chief, named Tubora Tumaida, with whom they settled a treaty of peace, in the manner before described. Tubora Tumaida intimated, he had provisions for them if they chose to eat, and they accordingly dined heartily upon bread-fruit, plantains and fish.

In the course of this visit, Tomio, the wife of the Chief, placed herself upon the same matt with Mr. Banks, close by him, but she not being young, nor appearing ever to have possessed many charms; to these causes may be ascribed the little attention this gentleman paid her; and Tomio received the additional mortification of Mr. Banks’s beckoning to a pretty girl, who, with some reluctance, came and seated herself by him. The Princess was somewhat mortified at the preference given to her rival, nevertheless she continued her assiduities to him. This whimsical scene was interrupted by an event of a serious nature. Dr. Solander having discovered that he had lost an opera glass, they complained to the Chief, and interrupted the convivial party. This complaint was enforced, by Mr. Banks’s starting up and striking the butt end of his musket on the ground, which struck the Indians with a panic, and they all precipitately ran out of the house, except the Chief, and a few others of the superior class.

The Chief appeared much concerned at this accident; not, as we had reason afterwards to believe, that he had any aversion to knavish practices, but because he feared that this early instance of dishonesty might give us unfavourable suspicions of his countrymen, and thereby deprive him of those advantages and emoluments which they expected to gain from us, and which by various artifices they afterwards secured, when our connexion with them became more intimate. The chief, therefore, to obviate any disadvantageous impressions, gave us to understand, with an appearance of great probity, that the place which the Doctor had mentioned was not within his district, but that he would send to the Chief of it, and endeavour, if possible to have the glass recovered; but that if this could not be done, he would make the Doctor compensation, by giving him as much new cloth, of which he shewed large quantities, as should be thought equal to its value. The case however was in a little time brought, and the glass itself soon after, which deprived us of the merit we should otherwise have had in refusing the cloth which had been offered us. But it afforded an opportunity of convincing the natives of our generosity, by lavishing rewards on them for an action, to which self-interest had been the motive, rather than any sentiment of probity; to which, from numerous transactions, they appeared to be absolute strangers. After this adventure was amicably terminated, they returned to the ship about six o’clock in the evening.

Saturday the 15th in the morning, several of the Chiefs, one of whom was very corpulent, came on board from the other point, bringing with them hogs, bread-fruit, and other refreshments, in exchange for which they gave them hatchets, linen, beads and other trinkets, but some of them took the liberty of stealing the top of the lightening chain. This day the Captain, attended by Mr. Banks and some of the other gentlemen, went a-shore to fix on a proper spot to erect a small fort for their defence during their stay on the island; and the ground was accordingly marked out for that purpose. A great number of the natives looking on all the while, and behaving in the most peaceable and friendly manner.

Mr. Banks having suspected, from seeing few hogs or poultry in their walks, that they had, upon the ship’s arrival, been driven farther up the country, it was resolved to penetrate into the woods; some marines and a petty officer being appointed to guard the tent in the interim; several of the natives accompanied the gentlemen in this excursion. Upon crossing a little river Mr. Banks perceiving some ducks, fired, and killed three. The Indians were struck with the utmost terror at this event, which occasioned them to fall suddenly to the ground, as if they had been shot at the same time; they recovered, however, presently from their fright, and continued the march. Before this party had gone much farther, they were alarmed by the discharge of two pieces, fired by the tent-guard. Owhaw, after calling together the Captain’s party, dispersed all the Indians except three, who broke branches of trees as pledges of their fidelity. Upon their return to the tent, it appeared, that an Indian had taken an opportunity to snatch away one of the centinels musquets; whereupon a young midshipman, under whose command the party was, very imprudently ordered the marines to fire, which they did immediately amongst the thickest of the fugitive Indians, in number above a hundred, several of whom were wounded, but as the criminal did not fall, they pursued and shot him dead.

When Mr. Banks heard of the affair, he was greatly displeased with the guard, and he used his utmost endeavours to accommodate the difference; going across the river, and through the mediation of an old man, prevailed on many of the natives to come over to them, bringing plantain-trees, their usual signal of peace, and clapping their hands in their breasts, they cried, Tyau, which signifies friendship. In a short time they became social and chearful, and seemed, for the present, to have buried in oblivion the wanton acts of cruelty which had been so lately exercised on their fellow countrymen.

Few of the natives appeared next morning upon the beach, and not one of them came on board. From hence Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen concluded, that their apprehensions were not intirely removed, more especially as even Owhaw had forsaken them. The Captain, in consequence of these disagreeable appearances, brought the ship nearer to shore, and moored her so as to make her broad-side bear on the spot which had been marked for erecting the fort. The Captain went on shore in the evening, with some of the gentlemen, when the Indians assembled round them, and they trafficked together in a friendly manner.

Mr. Banks had the misfortune of losing Mr. Buchan on the 17th.

The same day they received on board a visit from Tubora Tumaida and Tootahah. As tokens of peace, they brought with them some plantain branches, and would not risk themselves on board till these had been received, being probably alarmed at the affair of the tent. They also brought some bread-fruit and a hog ready dressed: in return for which they received some nails.

The fort began to be erected on the 18th. Some of the company were employed in throwing up intrenchments, whilst others were occupied in cutting fascines and pickets, which the Indians of their own accord chearfully assisted in bringing from the woods. Three sides of the fort were fortified with intrenchments and pallisades; and on the other which was flanked by a river, the water-casks being filled, were placed so as to form a breast-work.

This day the natives brought down such quantities of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, that it was necessary to reject them, and to intimate to them, that the company would not want any for two days. Beads were trafficked this day for every thing. Mr. Banks’s tent being got up, he, for the first time, slept on shore. No Indian attempted to approach it the whole night; however, a precaution had been taken to place proper centinels about it.

Wednesday 19, Tubora Tumaida visited Mr. Banks at his tent, and brought with him, besides his wife and family, the materials for erecting a house, in the neighbourhood of the fort, where he designed to reside: some time after he had reached the tent, he requested Mr. Banks to accompany him back to the woods; on their arrival at a place where he occasionally resided, he presented him with two garments, one of which was of red cloth, and the other of very fine matting; in which, having clothed Mr. Banks, he conducted him to the ship, and with his wife and son staid to dinner: they had a dish served up, which was prepared by one of Tubora Tumaida’s attendants, not unlike in taste to what in England is called flummery; of this dish the natives seemed exceedingly fond, but the English could not relish it. Tubora Tumaida had likewise brought with him some food, which appeared like the flower of wheat; this being mixed with cocoa-nut liquor, and some hot stones put into it, was stirred about till it became a thick jelly; on tasting it, they found it of an agreeable flavour, not very inferior to good blanc mange.

Without the lines a sort of market was established, which was tolerably well supplied. Tubora Tumaida became Mr. Banks’s and the other gentlemens frequent guest; he adopted their manners, and was the only one of his countrymen who had attempted to use a knife and fork.

Mr. Monkhouse, the Surgeon, said he had seen, in his evening walk the body of the man who had been shot at the tent. It was deposited in a shed, close to the house where he had resided when alive, and others were within ten yards of it. It was in length about fifteen feet, and eleven in breadth, and the height was proportionable: the two sides and one end were partly enclosed with a sort of wicker-work, the other end was entirely open. The corps was deposited on a bier, the frame of which was wood, with a matted bottom, supported by posts about five feet high. The corps was covered with a matt, and over that a white cloth; by its side lay a wooden mace, and towards the head two cocoa-nut shells: towards the feet was a bunch of green leaves, and small dried boughs, tied together and stuck in the ground, near which was a stone the size of a cocoa-nut: here was also placed a young plantain-tree and a stone axe. A great number of palm-nuts were hung in firings at the open end of the shed; and the stem of a plantain-tree was stuck up without the shed; upon this stem was placed a cocoa-nut shell filled with fresh water. At the side of one of the posts, there hung a little bag with some roasted pieces of bread-fruit. The natives did not seem pleased at his approaching the body, their jealousy and uneasiness being very visibly depicted in their countenances.

The flies on shore were so very tormenting, that they were obliged to destroy them with musqueto nets and fly traps.

They had a specimen of the music of the country on the 22d; some of the natives performing on flutes, which had only two stops; they were blown like the German flute, but the performer blew with his nostril instead of his mouth: several others sung, only one tune, to this instrument.

Some of the Indians brought the English axes to grind and repair, most of which they had received from the Dolphin; but a French one occasioned much speculation, and it at length appeared to have been left here by Mr. de Bougainville.

On the 24th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made an excursion into the country, which they found to be level and fertile for about two miles along the shore to the eastward, after which the hills reached quite to the water’s edge, and farther on they ran out into the sea. After passing these hills, which continued about three miles, they discovered a large plain, abounding with good houses, inhabited by people who seemed to be in affluence. A very wide river issuing from a valley, added greatly to the beauty of this place: they crossed this river, and perceived the country to be again barren, which determined them to return; but just as they had taken this resolution, they were offered some refreshment by one of the natives, a man, as some authors describe to be, mixed with many nations, but different from them all, his skin being of a dead white, though some parts of his body were not so white as others; his hair, eye-brows, and beard were as white as his skin. The great joy of Tubora Tumaida and his women, who met them as they returned, is not to be expressed.

On the 25th several of their knives were missing; upon which Mr. Banks, who had lost his among the rest, accused Tubora Tumaida with having stolen it, which caused him to be very unhappy, as he happened to be innocent of the fact, Mr. Banks’s servant having mislaid it; and the rest were produced in a rag by a native. The Indian was some time before he would forget this accusation, the tears starting from his eyes, and he made signs with the knife, that if he had ever been guilty of such an action, as was imputed to him, he would suffer his throat to be cut. However, in general, these people, from the highest to the lowest, are the greatest thieves in the world.

On the 26th, six swivel guns were mounted upon the fort, which put the natives into great consternation, and caused several fishermen, who lived upon the point, to remove farther off, imagining they were to be fired at in a few days.

The next day Tubora Tumaida, with a friend, a remarkable glutton, and three of his women, dined at the fort; after which he set out for his house in the wood. In a short time he returned in much agitation, to acquaint Mr. Banks, that the ship’s butcher had threatened to cut his wife’s throat, upon her refusing to sell him a stone hatchet, which he had taken a fancy to, for a nail. It clearly appeared he had been culpable, and he was flogged on board, in sight of several of the Indians. As soon as the first stroke was given they interfered, and earnestly intreated that he might be untied. This being refused, they burst into tears, and shewed great concern.

On Friday 28, one of Tubora Tumaida’s female attendants, came down to the fort in the greatest affliction, the tears gushing from her eyes, and full of lamentation. Mr. Banks seeing her, insisted upon knowing the cause; but instead of answering, she struck herself several times with a shark’s tooth upon the head, till she caused a great effusion of blood; while her distress was unnoticed by several other Indians, who continued laughing and talking with the utmost unconcern. After this, she gathered up some pieces of cloth, which she had thrown down to catch the blood, and threw them into the sea, as if she wished to obliterate her absurd behaviour. She then bathed herself in the river, and with remarkable chearfulness returned to the tent, as if nothing extraordinary had happened.

During the forenoon of this day, canoes were continually coming in, and the tents at the fort were filled with people of both sexes. Mr. Molineux, Master of the Endeavour, went on shore, and seeing a woman, whose name was Oberea, he declared she was the person he judged to be the queen of the island, when he came there on board the Dolphin in the last voyage.

The eyes of every one were now fixed on her, who had made so distinguished a figure, in the accounts that had been given by the first discoverers of this island. The person of the queen Oberea was of a large make, and tall; she was about forty years of age, her skin white; her eyes had great expression and meaning in them; she had been handsome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. She was soon conducted to the ship, and went on board, accompanied with some of her family. Many presents were made her, particularly a child’s doll, which seemed the most to engross her attention. Captain Cook accompanied her on shore; and as soon as they landed, she presented him with a hog, and some plantains, which were carried to the fort in procession, Oberea and the Captain bringing up the rear. They met Tootahah, who, though not King, seemed to be at this time invested with a sovereign authority. He immediately became jealous of the Queen’s having the doll; which made them find it necessary to compliment him with one also. A doll now was preferable to a hatchet, though it was not considered so long, as they soon were looked upon as trifles of little or no value.

The ship’s provisions seemed to be very acceptable to the men, but the women were shy of tasting any of them. They were solicited strongly, this day, to dine with the gentlemen; but they refused, and chose to partake of plantains with the servants; a mystery that could not be explained.

On Saturday 29, in the forenoon, Mr. Banks paid a visit to Oberea, who was still asleep under the awning of her canoe, whither he went with an intention of calling her up. Upon entering her chamber, to his great surprise, he found her in bed with a handsome young fellow, about five and twenty; upon which he immediately retired with some precipitation, not a little disconcerted at this discovery; but he was soon given to understand, that such amours were by no means considered scandalous, and that Obadie, the person found in bed with the queen, was by every one known to have been selected by her as the object of her lascivious hours. The queen soon got up and dressed herself to wait upon Mr. Banks. After dressing him in a suit of fine cloth, they proceeded together to the tents. Mr. Banks paid a visit in the evening to Tubora Tumaida, and was greatly surprized to find him and his family all in tears; he in vain attempted to discover the cause, and soon took leave of them. Upon his return he was told by the officers, that Owhaw had foretold that the guns would be fired in four days, and as this was the eve of the third day, they were alarmed at the situation they judged themselves to be in. In consequence of this intelligence they doubled the centries at the fort, and the gentlemen slept under arms. Mr. Banks, about two in the morning, went round the point, but finding every thing as he could wish, he dropt all suspicions of the Indians having hostile intentions, and dwelt quite secure, as the little fortification was now complete.

The next day, Sunday the 30th, Tomio came running to the tents, and taking Mr. Banks by the arm, to whom they applied in all emergent cases, told him that Tubora Tumaida was dying, owing to something which had been given him to eat by his people, and prayed him to go instantly to him. Accordingly Mr. Banks went, and found the Indian very sick. He was told, that he had been vomiting, and had thrown up a leaf, which they said contained some of the poison which he had taken. Upon examining the leaf, Mr. Banks found it to be nothing more than tobacco, which the Indian had begged of some of their people. He looked up to Mr. Banks, while he was examining the leaf, as if he had not a moment to live. Mr. Banks, now knowing his disorder, ordered him to drink of cocoa-nut milk, which soon restored him to health, and he was as chearful as ever.

On the 1st of May Captain Cook produced an iron adze, made in imitation of one of their stone ones, which had been brought home by Captain Wallis, and shewed it to Tootahah, who took such a fancy to it, that notwithstanding he was offered the choice of any of the things that were in his chests, he snatched it up with the greatest eagerness, and would accept of nothing else. The same day a Chief, who had dined on board a few days before, accompanied by some of his women, who used to feed him, came on board by himself, and when dinner was on table, the Captain helped him to some victuals, thinking upon this occasion he would condescend to feed himself; but he never attempted to eat, and had not one of the servants fed him, he would certainly have gone without his dinner.

In the afternoon they took the astronomical quadrant, with some other instruments, on shore.

On Tuesday the 2d, having occasion to use the quadrant, to their great astonishment and concern it was missing; this was the more extraordinary, as a centinel had been posted the whole night within a few yards of the tent in which it had been deposited; and it had never been taken out of the case in which it was packed. Their own people were at first suspected, imagining they might have mistaken the contents for articles used in traffic. They searched the fort and the adjacent places, and a considerable reward was offered, as the loss of this instrument would have rendered it impossible for them to have made the necessary observations respecting the Transit, one of the principal objects of their voyage. After every fruitless search had been made, Mr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Green, and some other gentlemen, set out for the woods, where he thought he might gain some intelligence of the robbery, if it had been committed by the natives. In the course of their journey they met Tubora Tumaida, with a few of the natives, who was made by signs to understand, that some of his countrymen had stolen the quadrant, and Mr. Banks insisted upon being conducted to the place where it was concealed. Accordingly they proceeded together a few miles, and, after some enquiry, Tubora Tumaida received information of the thief, and that he was to be found at a place about four miles distant; as they had no other arms but a brace of pistols, and the spot for which they were destined was at so considerable a distance from the fort, they were not without some apprehensions of danger. They accordingly dispatched one of their company to Captain Cook, desiring him to forward another party after them; having laid an embargo upon all the canoes in the bay; a party accordingly set out, with the Captain at their head.

Mr. Banks and Mr. Green in the interim pursued their route, and at the very place which had been mentioned were met by one of Tubora Tumaida’s own people, with part of the quadrant; soon afterwards the box in which it had been packed, containing the other parts of it, was recovered; and, upon examination, though it had been taken to pieces, they had the satisfaction to find it had received no material injury.

In the evening, when Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen, with Tubora Tumaida, returned, they were very much surprized to find Tootahah confined in the fort, the gate of which was surrounded by the natives, who expressed the utmost dread and anxiety on the occasion, as they had no other expectation but it was intended to put him to death.

Upon enquiry into this affair, it appeared that the Indians were so much alarmed at Captain Cook’s going up into the country with a party of armed men, that in the evening most of them forsook their habitations near the fort; a canoe likewise attempted to leave the bay, which the Lieutenant, who commanded on board the ship, and had been ordered not to permit any canoe to go out, perceiving, dispatched a boat to detain her, but she no sooner came near them than they jumped into the sea; among this unfortunate number was Tootahah, who, being taken up, was sent by the Lieutenant to the fort; and the commanding officer thought it his duty to detain him.

He could not be persuaded that he was not to be put to death, till Captain Cook gave orders for him to be conducted out of the fort. He was received with great affection by the people, every one pressing forward to embrace him.

On Wednesday the 3d, in the morning, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander attended as usual to purchase provisions, but the Indians brought nothing to market; nor could they procure any from some fishing-boats which came a-breast of the tents, though they were in great want of cocoa-nuts and bread fruit. Mr. Banks walked into the woods, and heard great complaints from the people of the ill treatment of their Chief, who they said had been beaten, and otherwise ill used, of which Mr. Banks declared he was totally ignorant. The hogs which he had left as a present, were sent for back by the Chief, which, probably, he was of opinion they had ill-deserved. However, they would not send them till he came himself, by which means they thought to procure a reconciliation, knowing that absence would promote that coolness between them, to which the first interview might put an end, especially as they were told, the Chief did not intend coming to the fort for near a fortnight.

Their provisions now were extremely scarce, and the markets ill supplied, the people resenting the ill usage their Chief had received. The next day, with some difficulty, Mr. Banks obtained a few baskets of bread-fruit from Tubora Tumaida in the woods, which were a very seasonable relief. An axe and shirt were sent for this day by Tootahah, in return for his two hogs which they promised to bring him the next day. If they had not complied with this request, they could have scarcely procured any provisions.

After his sending again early in the morning, on Friday 5, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with the Captain, set out in the pinnace, taking one of Tootahah’s people with them, they soon reached Eparre, the place where he dwelt, which was but a few miles to the west of the tents.

Upon their arrival, they found great numbers of people upon the shore waiting for them. They were immediately conducted to the Chief, whilst the people shouted round them, Taio Tootahah, “Tootahah is your friend;” they found him sitting under a tree, and some old men standing round him. As soon as he had made signs for them to sit down, he asked for his axe, which Captain Cook presented to him, with a shirt and a broad cloth garment, with which he seemed greatly pleased; and put the garment on. After eating a mouthful together in the boat, they were conducted to a large area, or court-yard, on one side of his house, where an entertainment was provided for them, consisting of wrestling. The Chief sat at the upper end of the area, with several of his principal men on each side of him, by way of judges, from whom the conquerors received applause.

Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many simple ceremonies of challenging each other, they engaged, endeavouring to throw one another by dint of strength; then seizing hold of each other by the thigh, the hand, the hair, or the cloaths, they grappled without the least art, till one was thrown on his back; this conquest was applauded by some words from the old men, and three huzzas. After one engagement succeeded another, but if they could not throw each other during the space of a minute, they parted either by consent, or the intervention of their friends. Several women of rank were present; but it was thought, they would not have attended this amusement, only in compliment to the English gentlemen.

A man with a stick, who made way for them when they landed, officiated here as master of the ceremonies, keeping order among the people.

When this entertainment was at an end, they were informed, that some hogs and a quantity of bread-fruit were preparing for their dinner; which intelligence was the more agreeable, as their appetites were at this time exceedingly keen. But instead of dining either on shore or on board of the boat, they had the mortification of going as far as the ship by the desire of the Chief.

As soon as the Chief was known to be on board the ship, the people brought plenty of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other provisions to the fort.

On Monday 8, early in the morning, Mr. Molineux, the Master, and Mr. Green, set out in the pinnace to the eastward, in order to procure some hogs or poultry; but after proceeding a considerable way, and seeing many hogs and a turtle, they could not purchase either. They belonged to Tootahah, and the people told them, that they could not sell them without his consent; so absolute was the power of this man.

They were now obliged, for the first time, to bring out their nails to purchase provisions; for one of the smallest size, they obtained near twenty cocoa-nuts and some bread-fruit, so that they soon got great plenty.

On Tuesday 9, in the forenoon, Oberea paid them a visit, accompanied by her favourite Obadee; she presented them with a hog and some bread-fruit.

The forge being now set up and frequently at work, became not only a new subject of admiration to the Indians, but afforded the Captain an additional opportunity of conferring obligations on them, by permitting the smith, during his leisure hours, to convert the old iron, which they were supposed to have procured from the Dolphin, into different kinds of tools.

The natives, after repeated attempts, finding themselves incapable of pronouncing the names of the English gentlemen, had recourse to new ones formed from their own language, Mr. Cook was named Toote; Hicks, Hete; Gore, Touara; Solander, Tolano; Banks, Opane; Green, Treene; and so on for the greatest part of the ship’s crew.

As Mr. Banks was sitting in his boat, trading with them as usual, on Friday the 12th, a very extraordinary ceremony was performed by some ladies who were strangers, to whom the rest of the Indians giving way on each side, and forming a passage, they advanced in procession towards Mr. Banks, to whom they presented some parrots feathers, plantains, and other plants. They then brought a large bundle of cloth, consisting of nine pieces, which being divided into three parcels, one of the women, who appeared to be the principal, stepping on one of the parcels, pulled up all her cloaths as high as her waist, and then, with an air of unaffected simplicity, turned round three times. This ceremony she repeated in the same manner on the other two parcels of cloth, and the whole being then presented to Mr. Banks, the ladies went and saluted him; in return for which he made them such presents as he thought would gratify them the most.

The next evening Mr. Banks was under the disagreeable necessity of reprimanding, in very strong terms, Tubora Tumaida, for having the insolence to snatch his gun from him, and firing it in the air; a thing which surprised Mr. Banks greatly, as he imagined him totally ignorant of the use of it. And as their safety in a great measure depended on keeping them in that state, he told him, with threats, that his touching his piece was the greatest of insults. The Indian made no reply, but set off with his family to his house at Eparre. He being an useful man, Mr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Molineux, thought fit to go after him, and they found him among a number of people, greatly dejected. However, as Mr. Banks judiciously caused all animosity to cease, they brought him back to supper; after which the Chief and his wife both slept in Mr. Banks’s tent. One of the natives, not intimidated by their presence, attempted that very evening to scale the walls of the fort, but was prevented by the centinel. These Indians could not resist making attempts to steal the iron and iron tools within the works.

Sunday morning the 14th, divine service was performed at the fort, in hopes that some of the principal Indians might be present, but most of them returned home before the time. However, Tubora Tumaida, and his wife Tomio, were present; they behaved with great decency, but without the least apparent curiosity. They made no enquiries with respect to the ceremonies, and their brethren were as little inquisitive upon their return. This evening several of their people were witnesses to an entertainment of a very extraordinary nature, which consisted of the most indecent acts of lewdness. For example, a young fellow cohabited in public with a girl about eleven or twelve years of age, without the least sense of shame; and what is still more extraordinary, Oberea, with several other females of the first rank, were present during the whole time.

On Monday the 15th, Mr. Banks detected Tubora Tumaida in having stolen some nails. Mr. Banks having a good opinion of this Chief, was willing to put his fidelity to the test, and several temptations were thrown in his way, among the rest a basket of nails, which proved irresistible. He confessed the fact, and upon Mr. Banks’s insisting upon restitution, he declared the nails were at Eparre; this occasioned high words, and at length the Indian produced one of them. He was to have been forgiven upon restoring the rest, but not having resolution to fulfil his engagement, he fled with his furniture and family before night.

On the 17th, one of the natives who came in the morning before day-light to steal some casks, it not being the first offence, the centinel snapped his gun at him, but it missing fire he escaped.

On Wednesday 24, Tootahah having sent many messages to request a visit from the Captain, declaring that he would acknowledge the compliment by a present of some hogs. Mr. Hicks the first Lieutenant was sent, in hopes of getting the hogs without the visit. He was received in a very friendly manner at a place called Tettehah, five miles farther to the westward, where Tootahah had taken up his residence. He brought away one hog only, which had been produced immediately upon his arrival, with a promise of receiving more the next morning; but, when morning came, he was obliged to depart without them. Mr. Banks, on the 25th, seeing Tubora and his wife Tomio at the tent, for the first time after he stole the nails, endeavoured to persuade him to restore them, but in vain. He was treated with great coolness during his short stay, and his departure was very abrupt.

On the 27th of May, Tootahah being removed to a place called Atahourou, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and some others, set out in the pinnace to pay him a visit; after making presents of a few trifling articles, they were invited to stay the night. Mr. Banks having accepted of a place in Oberea’s canoe, left his companions, in order to retire to rest. Notwithstanding the care Oberea took of his cloaths, by having them in her own custody, they were stolen with his pistols, powder-horn, and many other things that were in his waist-coat pockets. The alarm was given to Tootahah, who slept in the next canoe, and who went with Oberea in search of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks with only his breeches on, and his musquet uncharged. They soon returned, but without success; Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with the loss for the present, and a second time endeavour to sleep. But he had scarce composed himself, before he heard some musick, and perceived lights at a small distance from shore; this proved to be a concert, which they call Heiva. Mr. Banks judged it then necessary to get up and try to find his companions. As soon as he approached the lights, he found the hut, where Mr. Cook and three of his associates lay, and began to relate his melancholy tale; but instead of receiving much comfort from them, he was told, that they had shared the same fate, having lost their stockings and jackets. However, this did not prevent their hearing out the concert, which consisted of drums, flutes, and several voices, after which they retired to rest.

The next morning Mr. Banks got his musquet from Tupia, with whom he had intrusted it, and some cloaths from Oberea; in which he made a whimsical appearance. They then got together, and were joined by Dr. Solander, who was the only one among them that had not been robbed, having slept at a house about a mile distant. As to the others they were obliged to put up with their loss; their cloaths, &c. having never been heard of afterwards. They set out for the boat not very well pleased, carrying with them only one hog, which had been intended for their supper the night before.

In their return to the boat, they were greatly amused by seeing some Indians swimming for their diversion, amidst a surf, which no European boat could have lived in, or the best swimmer in Europe have saved himself from drowning, had he by accident been exposed to its fury. This extraordinary surf breaks upon the shore in a few places, where access to the island is not guarded by a reef, and makes it very dreadful and dangerous.

Some Indians from a neighbouring island, to which Captain Wallis gave the name of Duke of York’s Island, informed them of more than twenty islands in the neighbourhood of Otaheite.

They now began to make necessary preparations for observing the Transit of Venus, and, from the hints Mr. Cook had received from the Royal Society, he sent out two parties to make observations from different spots, that in case they failed at Otaheite, they might succeed elsewhere; they employed themselves in preparing their instruments, and instructing such gentlemen with the use of them, as were to go out. And on Thursday the 1st of June, the next Saturday being the day of the Transit, they sent the long boat to Eimayo, having on board Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhouse, and Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks; each furnished with necessary instruments by Mr. Green. Mr. Banks and several of the Indians went out with this party. Others were dispatched to find out a convenient spot, at such a distance from their principal station, as might suit their purpose.

Those who went to Eimayo in the long boat, after rowing the best part of the night, by the help of some Indians aboard a canoe, which they hailed, found a proper situation for their Observatory upon a rock, which rose out of the water about one hundred and forty yards from the shore, where they fixed their tents, and prepared the apparatus for the following day’s observation.

On Saturday the 3d, as soon as it was light, Mr. Banks left them to go to the island for fresh provisions. As he was trading with the natives who belonged to Tarrao, the King of the island, his majesty arrived with his sister, whose name was Nuna, in order to pay him a visit. It being customary among these people to be seated during their conferences, Mr. Banks spread on the ground his Indian cloth turban, that he wore instead of a hat, on which they all sat down. After this the royal present was brought, consisting of a hog and a dog, some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. A messenger was dispatched by Mr. Banks for an adze, a shirt, and some beads, and they were presented to his majesty, who received them with great pleasure. Tubora Tumaida and Tomio, Indians who had gone with Mr. Banks upon the expedition, came from the Observatory: Tomio, said to be related to Tarrao, brought him a long nail, and a shirt for Nuna, by way of presents. Mr. Banks returned to the Observatory with Tarrao, Nuna, and three beautiful young women, their chief attendants. He shewed them the Transit of Venus over the Sun, and informed them, that he and his companions had come from their own country solely to view it in that situation.

The produce of this island, according to the inspection of Mr. Banks, proved to be much the same as that of Otaheite, the people also resembling those of that island, many of them he had seen upon it, who were well acquainted with the value of the trading articles.

Both the parties which were sent out, made their observation with great success. They nevertheless differed in the accounts of the times of the contacts more than might have been imagined.

Mr. Green’s Account was as follows.

Hours Min. Sec.

The first external contact, or first appearance of Venus on the Sun, was 9 25 4 Morning.

The first internal contact or total immersion was 9 44 4 Morning.

The second internal contact, or beginning of the immersion 3 14 8 Afternoon.

The second external contact, or total immersion 3 32 10 Afternoon.

Latitude of the Observatory 17° 29′ 15″.
Longitude 149° 32′ 30″ W. of Greenwich.

While they were viewing the Transit of Venus, some of the ship’s company broke into one of the store-rooms, and stole a quantity of spike-nails. As the circulation of these nails might have been greatly detrimental to them, strict search was made, and one of the thieves was detected. He had only a few in his custody; but was however punished with two dozen lashes.

The death of an old woman of some distinction gave them an opportunity of observing the manner of the Indians disposing of their dead, whom they never bury. The kind of bier, on which the corpse is deposited, has already been described, and the bread-fruit, &c. placed as before, which Tubora Tumaida informed Mr. Banks was deposited as an offering to their Gods. A sort of stile was placed in the front of the square, where the relations of the deceased stood to testify their sorrow; beneath the awning were several pieces of cloth, on which were the tears and blood of the mourners, for upon these occasions they wound themselves with a shark’s tooth. At a small distance two temporary houses were erected, in one of which some of the relations of the deceased constantly remained, and in the other the chief mourner resided, who was dressed in a peculiar manner, to perform a particular ceremony. After the corpse is rotten, the bones are buried near the spot. It was afterwards discovered, that these repositories of the dead were used also for religious worship.

There having been a scarcity of bread-fruit for some days, an enquiry was made of the cause, and the reasons the Indians gave was, that there being a great crop, the fruit had been gathered to make a sort of sour paste, which the natives call Mahie, which, after fermentation, will keep a long time, and supply them in times of dearth.

The funeral ceremony, in honour of the old woman, was performed on the 10th by the chief mourner, and Mr. Banks was so desirous to be a spectator, that he agreed to take a part in the performance of this ceremony, being informed, that he could not be present on any other condition. He accordingly went in the evening to the place where the body was deposited, there he was met by the relations of the deceased, and afterwards joined by several other persons. The chief mourner was Tubora Tumaida; his dress was whimsical, though not altogether ungrateful. Mr. Banks was obliged to quit his European dress, and he had no other covering than a small piece of cloth, which was tied round his middle; his body was then blacked with charcoal and water, as were the bodies of several others, particularly some females, who were as little covered as himself; the procession then began. The chief mourner uttered some words, that were judged to be a prayer, when he approached the body; and he repeated it as he came up to his own house. After this the procession went on, by permission, towards the fort. It is usual for the Indians to shun these processions as much as possible; they accordingly ran into the woods in great haste, as soon at it came in view. From the fort it proceeded along the shore. Having crossed the river, it entered the woods, passing several houses, which became immediately uninhabited; and, during the rest of the procession, which continued above half an hour, not a single Indian was visible, Mr. Banks filled an office they called Nineveh, and there were two others in the same character. When none of the other natives were to be seen, they approached the chief mourner, saying, imatata; then those who had assisted at the ceremony bathed in the river, and resumed their customary dress.

Such was this uncommon ceremony, in which Mr. Banks performed a capital part, and met with the applause of Tubora Tumaida, the chief mourner.

Complaint was made on Monday the 12th to the Captain, that the Indians had lost some bows and arrows, and strings of plaited hair; the affair was enquired into, and the fact being well attested, two dozen lashes were inflicted upon each of the criminals.

The bows and arrows of the Indians have not hitherto been noticed; but this day Tubora Tumaida brought his hither, occasioned by a challenge he had received from Mr. Gore. The Indian Chief imagined it was a trial of skill who could shoot the farthest; but Mr. Gore proposed shooting at a mark. The mistake being soon discovered, the champions declined the trial. The Indian, however, to display his skill, drew his bow, and sent an arrow, unfeathered, as they all were, nearly the sixth part of a mile. They shoot kneeling, and drop the bow the instant the arrow is discharged.

In this morning’s excursion, Mr. Banks met several of the natives, who were itinerant musicians, and the place of the evening’s rendezvous being known, all the English gentlemen went thither to partake of the diversion. Their instruments were flutes and drums, and a great number of the Indians were got together upon the occasion. The drummers sung to the music, and to the astonishment of Mr. Banks and the rest of his companions they found, that they were the chief subject of the minstrels lays. These songs must, therefore, have been extemporaneous, the rewards whereof were such necessaries as they required.

An iron coal rake for the oven being stole in the night of the 14th, and many other things having at different times been taken by the Indians, the Captain judged it of some consequence, if possible, to put an end to these practices, by making it their common interest to prevent it. He had already given strict orders, that the centinels should not fire upon them, even if they were detected in the fact. About twenty-seven of their double canoes with sails were just come in with cargoes of fish, which the Captain seized, and then gave notice, that unless the rake, and all the other things, which had at different times been stolen, were returned, the vessels should be burnt. The Captain had, indeed, no such design, as will appear by the event. The menace produced no other effect than the restitution of the rake, all the other things remaining in their possession; at length the Captain thought proper to give up the cargoes, as the innocent natives were in great distress for want of them; and at last, to prevent confusion, from the difficulty of ascertaining to whom the different lots belonged, he promised also to release the canoes.

About this time another event had nearly involved the English in a quarrel with the Indians. The Captain having sent a boat on shore to get ballast, the officer not meeting immediately with what he wanted, began to pull down one of their sepulchral buildings: this measure was strenuously opposed by the Indians. Mr. Banks, having received intelligence of the affair, repaired to the spot, and the matter was soon amicably terminated, there being stones sufficient found elsewhere. This was the only opposition they had, hitherto, made, and the only personal insult received (besides the affair of the musket at the tent, for which the Indian forfeited his life) was by Mr. Monkhouse, who having pulled a flower within one of their burial inclosures, was struck by an Indian; the gentleman laid hold of him, but he was rescued by two more, who pulling Mr. Monkhouse’s hair forced him to quit his hold, after which they all ran off.

On the 19th in the evening, soon after dark, while the canoes were detained by the Captain, Oberea the Queen, and several of her attendants, paid the gentlemen a visit; she came from Tootahah’s palace, in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread-fruit, and other presents, among which was a dog; but none of the things that had been stolen; those she pleaded had been taken away by her gallant Obadee, for which she had beaten him. She did not, however, seem to think her story deserved credit, but appeared at first much terrified, though she surmounted her fears with great fortitude; and was desirous of sleeping with her attendants in Mr. Bank’s tent; but this being refused, she was obliged to pass the night in her canoe. The Captain declined accepting of her presents, at which she seemed very sorrowful. Mr. Banks and the rest of the gentlemen retired to bed, and a whole tribe of the Indians would have slept in the bell-tent, but were not permitted.

The next morning the Queen returned to the fort, and Captain Cook having altered his mind accepted of her presents. Two of her attendants were very earnest in getting themselves husbands, in which they succeeded, by means of the Surgeon and one of the Lieutenants: they seemed very agreeable till bed-time, and determined to lie in Mr. Banks’s tent, which they accordingly did, till the Surgeon having some words with one of them Mr. Banks thrust her out, and she was followed by the rest, except Otea Tea, who cried for some time, till he turned her out also. This had like to have become a serious affair, a duel being talked of between Mr. Banks and Mr. Monkhouse, but it was happily avoided. Dogs are esteemed here more delicate eating than pork; as those bred to be eaten taste no animal food, but live entirely upon vegetables; and the experiment was tried. Tupia undertook to kill and dress him, which he did, by making a hole in the ground and baking him. It was agreed by every one to be a very good dish.

They were visited on the 21st at the fort by many of the natives, who brought various kinds of presents, and among the rest Oamo, a Chief of several districts on the island, whom they had never before seen, who brought with him a hog. This Chief was treated with great respect by the natives, and was accompanied by a boy, and a young woman. The boy was carried upon a man’s back, though he was very able to walk. Oberea and some other of the Indians went out of the fort to meet them, their heads and bodies being first uncovered as low as the waist. This was considered as a mark of respect, they had not noticed it before, but judged it was usually shewn to persons of distinguished rank among them. Oamo entered the tent, but the young woman, who was about sixteen, could not be prevailed upon to accompany him, tho’ she seemed to combat with her curiosity and inclination. Dr. Solander took the youth by the hand, and conducted him in; but the natives without, who had prevented the girl’s entrance, soon found means to get him out again.

The curiosity of Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen being excited from these circumstances, they made enquiry, who these strangers were, and were informed, that Oamo was Oberea’s husband, but that by mutual consent they had been for a considerable time separated; and that the youth and girl were their offspring. The boy was named Terridiri, and was heir apparent to the sovereignty of the island; and he was to espouse his sister as soon as he had attained the proper age. The present sovereign being a minor, called Outou, and son of Whappai; Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were all brothers; Whappai was the senior, and Oamo the next; wherefore, Whappai having no child but Outou, Terridiri, son of Oamo, was heir to the sovereignty. To us it will appear singular, that a boy should reign during the life of his father; but in the island of Otaheite, a boy succeeds to his father’s authority and title as soon as he is born; when a regent is elected, which office usually falls upon the father, till the boy becomes of age: at this time, however, the election had fallen upon his uncle Tootahah, on account of his warlike exploits. Oamo was very inquisitive with respect to the English, and by his questions he appeared a man of understanding and penetration.

A woman called Teetee, who came from the west of the island, presented to the Captain an elegant garment, of a bright yellow ground, bordered with red, and in the middle of it were several crosses, which they had probably learned from the French.

On the 23d in the morning, one of their hands being missing, they enquired for him among the natives, and were told that he was at Eparre, Tootahah’s residence in the wood; and one of the Indians offered to fetch him back, which he did that evening. On his return he informed them, that he had been taken from the fort, and carried to the top of the bay, by three men, who having stripped him, forced him into a canoe, and conducted him to Eparre, where he received some cloaths from Tootahah, who endeavoured to prevail on him to continue there. They had great reason to suppose this account true, for the natives were no sooner acquainted with his return, than they left the fort with much precipitation.

Monday June 26, early in the morning, the Captain set out in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, to circumnavigate the island. They sailed to the eastward, and in the forenoon they went on shore, in a part of the island under the government of Ahio, a young Chief, who had often visited them at the tents. They also found here some other natives of their acquaintance. They then proceeded together to the harbour, wherein M. Bougainville lay when he visited this island, and were shewn the ground on which he fixed his tent, and the watering-place. They also met with Orette, a Chief, who was their particular friend, whose brother went away with M. Bougainville.

Having taken a survey of this harbour, and a large bay near which it is situated, they proposed going to the opposite side of the bay, but Titubaola, who was their conductor, not only refused to accompany them, but endeavoured to dissuade the Captain and Mr. Banks from going, saying, “That country was inhabited by people who were not subjects to Tootahah, and who would destroy them all.” This information did not, however, prevent the execution of their design; and upon loading their pieces with ball, Titubaola took courage to go with them; they rowed till it was dark, when they reached a narrow neck of land, that divided the island into two peninsulas, which are distinct governments. As they were not yet got into the hostile part of the country, they agreed to spend the night on shore, where they were provided with supper and lodging by Ooratooa, the lady who paid her compliments to Mr. Banks in so remarkable a manner at the fort.

In the morning they pursued their passage for the other government.

They landed in a district, which was governed by a Chief, named Maraitata, the burying place of men, and his father was called Pahairede, the stealer of boats. Notwithstanding their names were so ominous, they gave the Captain and Mr. Banks a very civil reception; furnished them with provisions, and sold them a large hog for a hatchet. The curiosity of the natives was soon excited, and a crowd gathered round the English gentlemen, but they saw only two people whom they knew, neither did they observe any trinkets that had come out of the Endeavour, though they met with several European commodities, particularly two twelve pound shot, one of which had the English broad arrow upon it, though the Indians said they had them from M. Bougainville’s people. They then advanced till they reached the district, which was under the dominion of the principal Chief, or King, named Waheatua, who had a son, but it was not known in whose hands the sovereign power was lodged. Here they found a spacious verdant plain, watered by a river of so great a width, that they were obliged to pass it in a canoe, but their Indian followers swam over it with the greatest facility. There was no house that appeared inhabited; but the ruins of several large ones. Having continued their journey along the shore for a considerable way, they at last saw the Chief, and with him an agreeable young woman about two and twenty, named Toudidde. They were not unacquainted with her name, as they had often heard it mentioned by the natives; and they had great reason to suppose she was the Queen of this peninsula.

In passing through this part of the island, they found it better cultivated, and more improved than any they had hitherto met with; though the houses were but few, and those very small, but there were a great number of canoes which excelled any they had seen, both in size and workmanship. The burial places were likewise numerous, being found not only at every point, but at different places in the interior parts of the island. These buildings nearly resembled, in form, those which they had seen at Opouroenu, but they were neater, and adorned with carvings of various figures; in one there was a cock, which was painted in imitation of the natural colour of the feathers of that bird. Notwithstanding the fertility of the country, and its being well cultivated, scarce any bread-fruit was to be met with, and the inhabitants subsisted chiefly upon a nut, called abee.

Finding themselves fatigued, they now took to their boat, and in the evening landed on an island named Otooareite; being in want of some refreshment, Mr. Banks went into the woods to try what he could obtain, but it being dark, he met with no inhabitants and but one house, in which he found only a bread-fruit, and a few of the nuts before-mentioned; nor were they more successful in procuring provisions the next morning.

Towards the southermost part of the island they found a good harbour, formed by a reef, and the circumjacent country is remarkably fruitful. At about three miles distant they landed, at a place where they found several of the natives, with whom they were intimately acquainted. After having, with a good deal of difficulty, obtained some cocoa-nuts, they again embarked.

They landed again a little further to the east. Mathiabo, the Chief, with whom they had no acquaintance, nor had ever seen before, soon came to them, and supplied them with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. They also purchased a hog of him for a glass bottle, which he took in preference to every other thing that was offered him. They saw here a turkey cock and a goose which the Dolphin left on the island, they were remarkably fat, and seemed to be greatly admired by the Indians.

A very uncommon sight presented itself in a house near this place, several human jaw-bones were fastened to a board of a semicircular form; they seemed fresh, and had not lost any of their teeth; but Mr. Banks could obtain no explanation of this mystery. Upon their quitting the place, the Chief accompanied them, and piloted them over the shoals. They opened the bay in the evening, on the north-west side of the island, which corresponded with that on the south-east, in such a manner, as to intersect the island at the isthmus.

Several canoes came off here with some very beautiful women, who appeared to be desirous of their going on shore, to which they readily assented. They met with a very friendly reception from the Chief, whose name was Wiverou, who gave directions to some of his people to assist them in dressing their provisions, which were now very plentiful, and they supped at Wiverou’s house, in company with Mathiabo. Part of the house was allotted for them to sleep in, and soon after supper they retired to rest. Mathiabo having obtained a cloak from Mr. Banks, under pretence of using it as a cover-let when he lay down, immediately made off with it, unperceived by that gentleman or his companions. News however of the robbery was soon brought them by one of the natives; in consequence of which intelligence they sat out in pursuit of the thief, but had proceeded a very little way before they were met by a person bringing back the cloak, which Mathiabo had given up through fear.

The house, upon their return, was entirely deserted, and about four in the morning the centinel gave the alarm, that the boat was missing. Mr. Banks and the Captain were greatly astonished at this account, and ran to the water-side, but though the morning was clear and star-light, no boat was visible. Their situation was now extremely terrifying: the party consisting of but four, with a single musket and two pocket pistols, without a spare ball or a charge of powder. After remaining in this distressful state of anxiety for a considerable time, dreading the advantage the Indians would take of it, to their great joy, the boat, which had been driven away by the tide, returned; Mr. Banks and his companions no sooner breakfasted than they departed. This place is situated on the north side of Tiarrabou, the south-east peninsula of the island, about five miles east from the isthmus, with a harbour equal to any in the island. It was fertile and populous, and the inhabitants every where behaved with civility. The last district in Tiarrabou, in which they landed, was governed by a Chief, named Omoe. He was building a house, and was very desirous of purchasing a hatchet, but Mr. Banks and the Captain had not one left. He would not trade for nails, and they embarked; the Chief following them in a canoe with his wife, in hopes of obtaining something useful to him. The Chief and his wife were afterwards taken on board, and after having gone about three miles, they desired to be put on shore, and their request was complied with, when the Captain met with some of Omoe’s people, who had brought with them a very large hog. The Chief agreed to exchange the hog for a large axe and a nail, and to bring the beast to the fort in Port Royal Bay. This resolution he came to after consulting with his wife; and Mr. Banks judged the exchange to be very advantageous to the English, as the hog was a remarkable fine one.

At this place they saw one of their Eatuas, or Gods, it was made of wicker-work, and resembled the figure of a man; it was near seven feet in height, and was covered with black and white feathers; on the head were four protuberances, which the natives called Tate ete, or little men.

Having taken their leave of Omoe, they set out on their return; after rowing a few miles, they went on shore again, but saw nothing remarkable except a sepulchral building, which was ornamented in an extraordinary manner. The pavement, on which was built a pyramid, was very neat; at a little distance there was an image of stone, very uncouthly carved, which the natives seemed to hold in a great estimation.

They passed through the harbour, which was the only one fit for shipping, on the south of Opoureonu, situated about five miles to the westward of the isthmus, between two small islands not far from shore, and within a mile of each other. They were now near the district, named Paparra, which was governed by Oamo and Oberea, where they intended to spend the night. Mr. Banks and his company landed about an hour before it was dark, and found that they were both set out to pay them a visit at the fort. They nevertheless slept at the house of Oberea, which, though not large, was very neat; no inhabitant but her father was now in possession of it, who shewed them much civility. They took this opportunity of walking out to a point, upon which they had observed, at a distance, some trees, called Etoa, which usually grow on the burial-places of these people. They call these burying-grounds Morai, which are also places of worship. They here saw an immense edifice, which they found to be the Morai of Oamo and Oberea, which was by far the most considerable piece of architecture to be found in the island.

It consisted of an enormous pile of stone work, raised in the form of a pyramid, with a flight of steps on each side, something after the manner of those little buildings, which are commonly erected in England to place the pillars of sun dials upon; it was near two hundred and seventy feet long, and about one-third as wide, and between forty and fifty feet high.

The foundation consisted of rock-stones, the steps of coral, and the upper part of round pebbles, all of the same shape and size; the rock and coral-stones were squared with the utmost neatness and regularity, and the whole building appeared as compact and firm, as if it had been erected by the best workmen in Europe. As the Indians were totally destitute of iron utensils to shape their stones, as well as mortar to cement them, when they had made them fit for use, a structure of such heighth and magnitude, must have been a work of infinite labour and fatigue.

In the center of the summit was the representation of a bird, carved in wood; close to this was the figure of a fish; which was in stone. This pyramid made part of one side of a wide court or square, the sides of which were nearly equal; the whole was walled in, and paved with flat stones. Within this place grew (notwithstanding it was in this manner paved) several plantains, and trees which the natives call Etoa. At a little distance to the west of this edifice was another paved square, which contained several small stages, called by the natives Ewattas, which appeared to be altars; upon them they place provisions, as sacrifices to their gods: Mr. Banks afterwards observed whole hogs placed upon these ewattas, or altars.

The inhabitants of the island of Otaheite seem in nothing so desirous of excelling each other as in the grandeur and magnificence of their sepulchres; and the rank and authority of Oberea was forcibly evinced upon this occasion. The gentlemen of the Endeavour, it has been observed, did not find Oberea possessed of the same power, as when the Dolphin was at this place, and they were now informed of the cause. The way from her house to the Morai, was by the sea-side, and they observed, in all places as they passed along, a great number of human bones. Inquiry being made into the cause of this extraordinary sight, they were informed, that about four or five months before Captain Cook’s arrival, the inhabitants of Tiarrabou, the peninsula to the south-east, made a descent here, and slew many of the people, whose bones were those that were seen upon the coast: that hereupon Oberea and Oamo, who then held the government for his son, had fled and taken refuge in the mountains; and that the victors destroyed all the houses, and pillaged the country. Mr. Banks was also informed, that the turkey and goose which he had seen in the district of Mathiabo, were among the booty; this afforded a reason for their being found where the Dolphin had little or no correspondence; and the jaw-bones, being mentioned, which had been seen hanging in a house, he was informed, that they had likewise been carried off as trophies. The jaw-bones of their enemies being considered by the natives of this island, as great a mark of triumph, as scalps are by the Indians of North America.

On Friday the 30th they arrived at Otahourou, where their old acquaintance Tootahah resided; he received them with great civility, and provided for them a good supper, and a convenient lodging; and notwithstanding they were so shamefully plundered the last time, they slept with this chief. They spent the night in the utmost security, none of their cloaths, or any other article, being missing in the morning.

On Saturday, July 1, they returned to the fort at Port Royal Harbour; having discovered the island, both peninsulas included, to be about one hundred miles in circumference. They were now very much in want of bread-fruit, owing to the scarcity of the season, and could obtain but a very small quantity upon their whole tour.

Their Indian friends crouded about them upon their return, and none of them came without provisions.

Monday the 3d, Mr. Banks made an excursion, with some Indian guides, to trace the river up the valley to its source, and observe to what extent its banks were inhabited. After meeting with houses for the space of six miles, they came up to one which was said to be the last that could be seen. The master of it presented them with cocoa-nuts and other fruits; and after a short visit, they continued their walk. In this tour they often passed under vaults, formed by rocky fragments, in which, they were informed, that those who were benighted often took refuge. They pursued the course of the river for about five or six miles further, and found it banked on both sides by rocks which were almost perpendicular, and near one hundred feet high, notwithstanding which, a way was to be traced up these dreadful precipices, and their Indian guides offered to conduct them by this path to the summit; but as it could not be effected without the utmost difficulty and danger, and there appeared nothing at the top to recompence them for the fatigue and hazard of the undertaking, they declined attempting it.

Mr. Banks during this tour had a fine opportunity of searching for minerals among the rocks, which were almost, on all sides, naked; he found, however, not the smallest appearance of any kind of mineral. The stones every where resembling those of Madeira, gave manifest signs of having been burnt. Scarce a single stone was found during their whole stay upon the island, which had not unquestionable marks of fire on it, except the hatchet stone, and some of these were not entirely free from it. There are also evident traces of fire in the clay upon the hills, both of this and the neighbouring islands.

Mr. Banks was engaged the 4th in planting on each side of the fort a great quantity of the seeds of water-melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and other plants and trees which he had brought from Rio de Janeiro. He gave of these seeds to the Indians in great plenty, and planted many of them in the woods: some of the melon-seeds, which had been planted soon after his arrival, had already produced plants which appeared to be in a very flourishing state.

They now began to make preparations for their departure; but before they set sail they had another visit from Oamo, Oberea, and their son and daughter. The young woman, whose name they understood to be Toimata, was very curious to see the fort, but Oamo would by no means permit her to come in. The son of Waheatua, sovereign of Tiarrabou, or the south-east peninsula, was also here at this time; and they received intelligence of the arrival of another guest, whose company they neither wished for nor expected; this was the Indian who had stolen the quadrant.

On Friday the 7th, the carpenters were ordered to take down the gates and pallisadoes of the fort, to be converted into firewood on board the Endeavour; and one of the Indians stole the staple and hook belonging to the gate: he was instantly pursued; but could not be found; and soon after this, their old friend Tubora Tumaida brought back the staple.

They continued on the 8th and 9th to pull down the fort, and their friends still visited them.

Captain Cook hoped now to quit the island, without any farther misunderstanding with the natives; but in this he was mistaken. Two foreign sailors having been out, one of them was robbed of his knife, and striving to recover it, the Indians attacked and wounded him in a dangerous manner with a stone; his companion also received a slight wound in the head. As Captain Cook would have been unwilling to have taken farther notice of the transaction, he was not sorry that the offenders had made their escape. Another affair equally disagreeable soon after happened. Between the 8th and 9th in the evening; two young marines retired secretly from the fort, and in the morning were not to be met with. Notice having been given for all the company to go on board the next day, and that the ship would sail that day or the day ensuing, Captain Cook began to fear that the marines intended to remain on shore. He was apprised, that no effectual steps could be taken to recover them, without risking the harmony and good fellowship which at present subsisted between the English and the natives; and therefore resolved to wait a day in hopes of their returning.

The 10th in the morning the marines not being returned, an enquiry was made after them, when the Indians declared they did not propose returning, having taken refuge in the mountains, where it was impossible to discover them, and that each had taken a wife. In consequence of which it was intimated to several of the Chiefs who were in the fort with their women, among whom were Tubora Tumaida, Tomio and Oberea, that they would not be suffered to quit it till the deserters were produced. Captain Cook thought this precaution necessary, as, by concealing them a short time, he might be compelled to go without them; they received the intimation with very little signs either of fear or discontent, assuring the Captain that the marines should be sent back. In the interim he sent Mr. Hicks in the pinnace to bring Tootahah on board the ship, which he executed without giving any alarm. Night coming on, Captain Cook judged it was not prudent to let the people, whom he had detained as hostages, remain at the fort, and he therefore ordered Tubora Tumaida, Oberea, and some others, to be brought on board. This gave an unusual alarm, and several of them, especially the females, testified their apprehensions with great agitation of mind, and floods of tears, when they were coming on board. Captain Cook went on board with them, Mr. Banks remaining on shore with some others, whom he thought it of less importance to detain.

One of the marines was brought back in the evening by some of the Indians, who reported, that the other, and the two people who were sent to fetch them back, would be detained whilst Tootahah was confined. Mr. Hicks was immediately dispatched in the long-boat, with several men, to rescue the English prisoners; at the same time Captain Cook told Tootahah, that it was incumbent on him to assist them with some of his people, and to give orders, in his name, that the men should be set at liberty, for that he should expect him to answer for the event. Tootahah immediately complied, and this party recovered the men without any opposition. About seven in the morning on the 11th they returned, but without the arms which had been taken from them when they were made prisoners: the arms were however brought on board soon after, and the Chiefs were allowed to return on shore.

At the time the Chiefs were set on shore from the ship, those at the fort were also released, and after remaining with Mr. Banks about an hour and a half, they all returned to their respective places of residence. When the deserters were examined, it was discovered, that the account which the Indians had given was no way false: they had become fond of two girls, and it was their design to keep themselves concealed till the ship had let sail, and continue upon the island.

Tupia, whose name has been often mentioned in this voyage, had been prime minister of Oberea, when she was at the pinnacle of her authority: he was also the principal priest of the island, and therefore intimately acquainted with the religion of the country. He was likewise deeply versed in navigation, and was thoroughly acquainted with the number, situation, inhabitants and produce of the adjacent islands. He had often testified a desire to go with them; and on Wednesday the 12th, in the morning, he came on board, with a boy about twelve years of age, his servant, named Taiyota, and requested the gentlemen on board, to let him go with them. As it was thought he would be useful to them in many particulars, they unanimously agreed to comply with his request. Tupia then went ashore for the last time to see his friends, and took with him several baubles to give them as parting tokens of remembrance.

Mr. Banks being willing to obtain a drawing of the Morai, in possession of Tootahah, at Eparre, Captain Cook accompanied him thither in the pinnace, together with Dr. Solander. They immediately, upon landing, repaired to Tootahah’s house, where they were met by Oberea, and several others. A general good understanding prevailed, and they promised to visit the gentlemen early the next day, to take leave of them, as they were told that the ship would then set sail. There also they met Tupia, who came back with them, and slept for the first time on board the ship.

Thursday the 13th of July, the ship was visited by a multitude of the gentlemen’s friends, and surrounded by numberless canoes, which contained the inferior natives. They weighed anchor about twelve, and the Indians took their leaves of the gentlemen on board, weeping in a friendly and affecting manner. Tupia supported himself in this scene with a becoming fortitude, tears flowed from his eyes, its true, but the effort that he made to conceal them did him additional honour. He went with Mr. Banks to the mast-head, where he continued waving his hand to the canoes as long as they remained visible.

The longitude of Port Royal Bay, as settled by Captain Wallis, was found to be within half a degree of its real situation. Point Venus, the northern extremity of the island, and the eastern point of the bay, lies in the longitude 149 degrees 30 minutes. Port Royal Bay, which is equal to any in Otaheite, may easily be discovered by a remarkable high mountain in the center of the island, bearing due south from Point Venus. The shore of the bay is a fine sandy beach, behind which runs a river of fresh water; any number of ships may water here without any inconvenience to each other. The only wood for firing, upon the whole island, is that of fruit-trees, which must be purchased of the natives, or it is impossible to live upon good terms with them.

According to Tupia’s account, the island could furnish above six thousand fighting men, whereby a computation of the number of inhabitants may easily be made.

The produce of Otaheite is bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains; a fruit not unlike an apple, potatoes, yams, cocoas, sugar-cane, and a variety of other fruits and vegetables.

They have no European fruits, garden stuff, or pulse, nor grain of any species. Their tame animals are hogs, dogs, and poultry; there is not a wild animal in the island, except ducks, pigeons, parroquets, and a few other birds; rats being the only quadruped, and there are no serpents. The sea however supplies them with great variety of excellent fish.

With regard to the people, they are in general rather of a larger make than Europeans. The males are tall, robust, and finely shaped. The females of the superior class are likewise generally above our common size; but those of the lower rank are rather below it, and some of them are remarkably little.

Their natural complexion is a fine clear olive, or what we call brunette, their skin is delicately smooth and agreeably soft. The shape of their faces is in general handsome, and their eyes are full of sensibility and expression, their teeth are likewise remarkably white and regular, and their breath intirely free from any disagreeable smell; their hair is for the most part black. The men, unlike the original inhabitants of America, have long beards, which they wear in various forms; and what is very remarkable, circumcision is almost universally practised among them, from a motive of cleanliness; having a peculiar term of reproach, with which they upbraid those who do not adopt this custom. Both sexes always eradicate the hair from their arm-pits, and they often reproached the English gentlemen with a want of cleanliness, for not making use of the same method. Their motions are easy and graceful, but not vigorous; their deportment is generous and open, and their behaviour affable and courteous. They appeared of a brave, noble, and candid disposition; equally strangers to the base and unworthy passions of cruelty, treachery, or revenge, and setting aside their violent prepensity to thieving, it may fairly be said, that their general characters would lose nothing in the comparison with those of the most civilized nation under the globe.

Contrary to the custom of almost all other countries, the women of this island cut their hair quite short, whereas the men wear it long, sometimes hanging loose on their shoulders, and at others tied in a knot on the crown of their heads, in which they stick the feathers of birds of various colours.

Both sexes frequently wear a piece of cloth of the manufacture of the island tied round their heads in the form of a turban; and the women take no little pains in plaiting human hair into long strings, which being folded into branches, are tied on their foreheads by way of ornament.

There is a custom likewise prevalent among them of anointing their heads with an oil extracted from the cocoa-nut. The smell of which is not altogether agreeable, as the climate is hot, and they are not provided with any thing similar to a comb, their heads are not clear from vermin: it evidently appeared, however, to be more the effect of necessity than inclination, as those to whom they gave combs immediately got rid of these disagreeable companions.

They stain their bodies, by indenting or pricking the flesh with a small instrument made of bone, cut into short teeth; which indentures they fill with a dark blue or blackish mixture, prepared from the smoke of an oily nut, burnt by them instead of candles and water; this operation, which is called by the natives Tattaowing, is exceedingly painful, and leaves an indelible mark on the skin. It is usually performed when they are about ten or twelve years of age, and on different parts of the body; but those which suffer most severely are the breech and the loins, which are marked with arches, carried one above another a considerable way up their backs.

At the operation of Tattaowing, performed upon the posteriors of a girl about twelve years of age, Mr. Banks was present, it was executed with an instrument that had twenty teeth, and at each stroke, which was repeated every moment, serum mixed with blood issued. She bore it with great resolution for several minutes; but at length the pain became so violent, that she murmured and complained, and then burst into the most violent lamentations; but her operator was inexorable, whilst some females present chid, and even beat her. Mr. Banks was a spectator for near an hour, during which time it was performed only on one side, the other having undergone the ceremony sometime before; and the arches upon the loins, which are the most painful, but upon which they the most pique themselves, were yet to be made.

They cloath themselves in cloth and matting of various kinds; the first they wear in fair, the latter in wet weather. They are in different forms, no shape being preserved in them, nor are the pieces sewed together. The women of a superior class wear three or four pieces; one, which is of considerable length, they wrap several times round their waists, and it falls down to the middle of the leg. Two or three other short pieces, with a hole cut in the middle of each, are placed on one another, and their heads coming through the holes, the long ends hang before and behind, both sides being open, by which means they have the free use of their arms.

The mens dress is very similar, differing only in one instance, which is that part of the garment instead of falling below the knees, is brought between the legs. This dress is worn by all ranks of people, the only distinction being quantity in the superior class. At noon both sexes appear almost naked, wearing only the piece of cloth that is tied round the waist. Their faces are shaded from the sun with small bonnets, made of cocoa-nut leaves or matting which are constructed in a few minutes. The men sometimes wear a sort of wig, made of human or dogs hair, or of cocoa-nut strings, woven on a single thread, which is fastened under their hair, and hangs down behind. Both men and women wear ear-rings on one side, consisting of shells, stones, berries, or small pearls; but they soon gave the preference to the beads, brought by the Endeavour’s company.

The boys and girls go quite naked; the first till they are seven or eight years old; the latter till they are about five. Their houses, which have been described already, they seldom use but to sleep in, or to avoid the rain, as they eat in the open air, under the shade of a tree. Their clothes serve them at night for covering, and there are no divisions or apartments. The master and his wife repose in the middle, then the married people; next to these the unmarried females, and at a small distance the men who are unmarried; and the servants sleep in the open air in fair weather. The houses of the Chiefs, however, differ in some degree; there are some very small, and so built as to be carried in canoes: all sides of them are inclosed with the leaves of the cocoa-nut; the air, nevertheless, penetrates, in these the Chief and his wife alone sleep. There are also houses which are general receptacles for the inhabitants of a district. These are much larger, many being more than two hundred feet in length, forty in breadth, and seventy or eighty feet high. They are constructed at the common expence, and have an area on one side surrounded with low pallisades; but like the others have no walls.

When a Chief kills a hog, which is but seldom, he divides it equally among his vassals; dogs and fowls are more common.

When the bread-fruit in not in season, they are supplied by cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, &c.

Their cookery consists chiefly of baking, the manner of doing which has been already described. They bake their bread-fruit in the same way, which renders it something like a mealy potatoe; of this fruit three dishes are made, by beating it to a paste, and mixing it with bananas, plantains, or the sour paste, which the natives nominate Mahie.

This paste is made by taking bread-fruit, which is not thoroughly ripe, and laying it in heaps, covered with leaves, by which means it ferments, the core is then taken out, and the fruit put into a hole lined with grass; it is then again covered with leaves, upon which large stones are placed; this produces a second fermentation, after which it grows sour, and undergoes no change for a long time; they take it from this hole as they have occasion for it, and making it into balls, it is rolled up in plantain-leaves and baked; as it will keep for some weeks after it is dressed, they eat it both hot and cold.

Such is the food of these people, their sauce to which never consists of any thing but salt water. As to their drink, it is generally confined to water, or the milk of the cocoa nuts, though there were instances in which some of them drank so freely of the English liquors, as to become quite intoxicated; this, however, seemed to proceed more from ignorance than design, as they were never known to repeat a debauch of this kind a second time. They were told indeed that the Chiefs sometimes became inebriated by drinking the juice of a plant called Ava, but of this they saw no instance during the time they remained on the island.

The Chiefs generally eat alone, unless when visited by a stranger, who is sometimes permitted to become a second in their mess; having nothing to supply the want of a table; they sit on the ground in the shade; leaves of trees being spread before them serve as a table-cloth; their attendants, who are numerous, having placed a basket by the Chiefs, containing their provisions, and a cocoa-nut shell of fresh and salt water, seat themselves round them; they then begin by washing their mouth and hands, after which they eat a mouthful of bread-fruit and fish, dipt in salt water alternately, till the whole is consumed, taking a sup of salt water likewise between almost every morsel. The bread-fruit and fish being all eaten, they next have either plantains or apples, which they never eat without being pared. During this time a soft paste is prepared from the bread-fruit, which they sup out of a cocoa-nut shell; this finishes the meal, and the hands and mouth are again washed as at the beginning.

It is astonishing how much food they eat at a meal; Mr. Banks and some other gentlemen were present when one man devoured three fish the size of a middling carp, four bread fruits as large as a common melon, thirteen or fourteen plantains seven or eight inches long, and above half as big round, and about a quart of the paste made of bread-fruit.

It is not a little surprizing, that the inhabitants of this island, who seemed exceedingly sensible of the pleasures of society, should have an universal aversion to the least intercourse with each other at their meals, and so rigid are they in the observance of this unusual custom, that even brothers and sisters have their separate baskets to contain their provisions, and generally sit some yards distance when they eat, with their backs turned towards each other, not exchanging a single word during the whole time of their repast; the middle aged of superior rank usually betake themselves to sleep after dinner, but what is remarkable, the older people are not so lazy; music, dancing, wrestling, and shooting with the bow, or throwing a lance, constitute a chief part of their diversions.

Flutes which have been mentioned before, and drums, are the only musical instruments among them; their drums are formed of a circular piece of wood, hollow at one end only, which is covered with the skin of a shark, and they are beaten with the hand instead of a stick. Their songs are extempore, and frequently in rhime, but consist of only two lines; these couplets are often sung by way of evening amusements, between sun-set and bed-time, during which time they are not destitute of lights, having candles which they make of an oily nut, fixing them one above another, upon a small stick run through the middle; some of these candles burn a long time, and afford a pretty good light.

Among their other amusements, they have a dance named Timorodee, which is performed by ten or a dozen young females, who put themselves into the most wanton attitudes that can possibly be imagined, keeping time during the performance with the greatest nicety and exactness, from these dances the women are immediately excluded on their becoming pregnant.

Many of the principal people of this island, of each sex, have united into an association, in which no woman confines her favours to any particular man; in this manner they obtain a perpetual variety, no one object ever gratifying them but a few days.

These societies are named Arreoy, the members of which have meetings where the men amuse themselves by wrestling; and notwithstanding the frequent intercourse which the women have with a variety of men, they dance the Timorodee in such a manner, as they imagine will most excite the desires of the male sex, and which are often gratified upon the spot. There are yet much worse practices. In case any of the women prove with child, which in this manner of life seldom happens, they destroy the helpless infant as soon as it is brought into the world, that it may not be a burden to the father, nor interrupt the mother in the pursuit of her lascivious amusements. Natural affection, however, for the child sometimes happily produces a reformation in the mother, but when this happens, the child’s life is always forfeited, unless the mother can procure a man to adopt it as his child, in which case this inhuman murder is prevented, but both the man and woman are for ever expelled this society. The woman being particularized by the appellation of Whannownow, “bearer of children”, which among these people, is considered as a term of the greatest reproach.

Their personal cleanliness is an object that merits peculiar attention. Both sexes never omit to wash with water three times a day; when they rise, at noon, and before they go to rest. They also keep their cloaths extremely clean; so that in the largest communities no disagreeable effluvia ever arises, nor is there any other inconvenience than heat.

The chief manufacture of Otaheite is cloth; of this cloth there are three different sorts, which are made of the bark of as many different trees, viz. the mulberry, the bread-fruit, and a tree not very unlike the wild fig-tree, which is found in some parts of the West Indies. The mulberry-tree, which the Indians call Aouta, produces the finest cloth, which is seldom worn but by those of the first rank. The next sort, which is worn by the lower class of people, is made of the bread-fruit tree, and the coarsest of the tree resembling the fig-tree. This last sort, though more useful than the two former on account of its keeping out water, which neither of the others will, is exceedingly scarce, being manufactured but in small quantities.

The same method is used in manufacturing these three cloths, notwithstanding they are all different; a description therefore of their manner of making one, will suffice for the whole.

Having stript off the bark of the trees, it is soaked in water for two or three days, they then take it out and separate the inner bark from the external coat, by scraping it with a shell, after which it is spread out on plantain-leaves, placing two or three layers one over another, and taking care to make it of an equal thickness in every part; it continues in this state till it is nearly dry, when it adheres together so firmly, that it may be taken from the ground without breaking. After this process it is laid on a smooth board, and beaten with an instrument made for that purpose, of a compact heavy wood, called by the natives Etoa. This instrument is about fourteen inches long, and seven in circumference; it is of a quadrangular shape, and each of the four sides is marked with longitudinal grooves or furrows, differing in this instance, that there is a regular gradation in the width and depth of the grooves on each of the sides, the coarser side containing not more than ten of these furrows, and the finest above sixty.

They begin to beat their cloth with that side of the mallet where the grooves are deepest and widest, and proceeding regularly with the others, finish with that which has the greatest number; by this beating it is extended in a manner similar to the gold which is formed into leaves by the hammer, and is marked with an appearance of little channels, not unlike those which are visible on paper, but rather deeper; it is in general beat very thin, and when they want it thicker than common, they take two or three pieces and paste them together with a kind of glue, prepared from a root called Pea.

This cloth becomes exceedingly white by bleaching, and is died of a red, yellow, brown, or black colour: the first of which is exceedingly beautiful, and equal, if not superior, to any in Europe. They make this red colour from a mixture of the juices of two vegetables, neither of which used separately has this effect.

Matting of various kinds is another considerable manufacture, in which they excel, in many respects, the Europeans. They make use of the coarser sort to sleep on, and in wet weather they wear the finer.

They greatly excel in the basket and wicker-work; both men and women employ themselves at it, and can make it of a great number of different patterns.

They make ropes and lines of all sizes of the bark of the poerou, and their nets for fishing are made of these lines: the fibres of the cocoa-nut they make thread of, such as they use to fasten together the several parts of their canoes; the forms of which are various, according to the use to which they are applied.

Their fishing-lines are esteemed the best in the world, made of the bark of the Erowa, a kind of nettle which grows on the mountains; they are strong enough to hold the heaviest and most vigorous fish, such as bonetas and albicores; in short, they are extremely ingenious in every expedient for taking all kinds of fish.

The tools which these people make use of for building houses, constructing canoes, hewing stone, and for felling, cleaving, carving and polishing timber, consist of nothing more than an adze of stone, and a chissel of bone, most commonly that of a man’s arm; and for a file or polisher, they make use of a rasp of coral, and coral sand.

The blades of their adzes are extremely tough, but not very hard; they make them of various sizes, those for felling weigh six or seven pounds; and others which are used for carving, only a few ounces; they are obliged, every minute, to sharpen them on a stone, which is always kept near them for that purpose.

The most difficult task they meet with in the use of these tools, is the felling of a tree, which employs a great number of hands for several days together.

The tree which is in general use is called Avie, the stem of which is strait and tall. Some of their smaller boats are made of the bread-fruit tree, which is wrought without much difficulty, being of a light spongy nature. Instead of planes, they use their adzes with great dexterity. Their canoes are all shaped with the hand, the Indians not being acquainted with the method of warping a plank.

They have two kinds of canoes, one they call Ivahahs, the other Pahies; the former is used for short voyages at sea, and the latter for longer ones. These boats do not differ either in shape or size; but they are in no degree proportionate, being from sixty or seventy feet to ten in length, and not more than the thirtieth part in breadth. Some are employed in going from one island to another, and others used for fishing. There is also the Ivahah, which serves for fighting; these are by far the longest, and the head and stern are considerably raised above the body. These Ivahahs are fastened together, side by side when they go to sea, at the distance of a few feet, by strong wooden poles, which are laid across them and joined to each side. A stage or platform is raised on the fore-part about ten or twelve feet long; upon which stand the fighting men, whose missile weapons are slings and spears. Beneath these stages the rowers sit, who supply the place of those who are wounded.

The fishing Ivahahs are from thirty or forty to ten feet in length; and those for travelling have a small house fixed on board, which is fastened upon the fore-part, for the better accommodation of persons of rank, who occupy them both day and night.

The Pahies differ also in size, being from sixty to seventy feet long, they are likewise very narrow, and are sometimes used for fighting, but chiefly for long voyages. In going from one island to another, they sometimes are out a month, and often at sea a fortnight or twenty days, and if they had convenience to stow more provisions, they could stay out much longer.

These vessels are very useful in landing, and putting off from the shore in a surf; for by their great length and high sterns they landed dry, when the Endeavour’s boats could scarcely land at all.

They are very curious in the construction of these boats, the chief parts or pieces whereof are formed separately without either saw, plane, chissel, or any other iron tool, which renders their fabrication more surprizing and worthy observation.

These parts being prepared, the keel is fixed upon blocks, and the planks are supported with props, till they are sewed or joined together with strong plaited thongs, which are passed several times through holes bored with a chissel of bone, such as they usually make use of; and when finished, they are sufficiently tight without caulking.

They keep these boats with great care in a kind of shed, built on purpose to contain them.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were at a loss to find out their method of dividing time; they always made use of the term Malama, which signifies moon, whenever they spoke of time, either past or to come; they reckon thirteen of these moons, beginning again when they are expired. This proves that they have some idea of the solar year; but these gentlemen could not discover how they computed their months, so as to make thirteen of them equal to the year; for the natives say, that their month consists of twenty-nine days, one day, in which the moon is invisible, being included. They knew the fruits that would be in season, and even the prevailing weather of the months to come.

They divide the day into twelve parts, each consisting of two hours, six belonging to the day, and the other six to the night. They reckon from one to ten when they numerate, making use of their fingers, and changing hands till they come to the number which they intend to express, and in conversation they joined signs to their words, which were remarkably expressive of their meaning.

They are not so expert in measuring distances, as in computing numbers; for when they speak of the distance from one place to another, they are obliged to express it by the time that would be taken to pass it.

Their language is soft and musical, abounds with vowels, and is easy to be pronounced. But whether it is copious, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were not sufficiently acquainted with it to know. As very few either of their nouns or verbs are declinable, it must consequently be very imperfect. They found means, however, to be mutually understood without much difficulty.

The following specimen will possibly enable the reader to form some idea of their language.

Teine, a brother.

Tooaheine, a sister.

Tane, a husband.

Aree, a chief.

Midee, a child.

Aheine, a woman.

Erowroo, the head.

Matau, the eyes.

Eahoo, the nose.

Meyoooo, the nails.

Huaheine, a wife.

Oowhau, the thighs.

Kipoo a meemhee, a chamber-pot.

Oorè dehaiya, a large nail.

Oorè eeteea, a small nail.

Pahiè, a ship.

Aihoo, a garment.

Parawei, a shirt.

Tumatau, a bonnet.

Poe, ear-rings.

Epanoo, a drum.

Toonoah, a mole in the skin.

Hooare, spittle.

Epeènei, an eccho.

Mahana, a day.

Poa, a night.

Otaowa, yesterday.

Aouna, to day.

Oboboa, to-morrow.

Tatta te Hàmannee Màitài, a good-natured person.

Amawhattoo, a shrew.

Epehe, a song.

Teà, white.

Marroowhai, dry.

Myty, good.

Porai, to talk.

Mutee, to kiss.

Eàwow, to scold.

Emòto, to box.

Eei, to eat.

Matte roah, to die.

Mayneenee, to tickle.

Itopa, to fall.

Ainao, take care.

Eeyo, look you.

Neeheeo, good night.

Waow, I.

Tooanahoe, you and I.

Wahaa, fire.

Avy, water.

In respect to diseases, the natives are seldom afflicted with any, except sometimes an accidental fit of the cholic. They are subject to the erisypelas, attended with cutaneous eruptions, not unlike the leprosy; and if they have had it for any time to a certain degree, they are secluded from all society, and live alone in a small house, in some unfrequented part of the island.

Here the management of the sick falls to the lot of the priests, and their method of cure consists chiefly of prayers and ceremonies, which are repeated till the patients recover or die. If they recover, they attribute the cure to these remedies; if they die, like the medical tribe of this and every other country, they say the disease was incurable.

From their connection with the Europeans, they have entailed upon themselves that dreadful curse, the venereal disease; which, upon enquiry, evidently appeared to have been brought among them by the vessels under the command of Mons. Bougainville. It was called by a name somewhat similar, in meaning, to rottenness, but of a much stronger import; and they gave a most shocking account of the sufferings of those who were first infected with it; telling them, that their nails and hair fell off, and the flesh even rotted from their bones: and so greatly were they terrified at the dreadful effects of this alarming disease, that the infected person was forsaken even by his own relations, and left to perish by himself, in such a state of misery and pain as he had never before experienced.

The religion of these people appeared to be exceedingly mysterious; and as the language used on the occasion was different from that spoken in common, they were not able to obtain much information respecting it, but from what little they could learn from their friend Tupia, these Indians seemed to have adopted strange notions of the creation of the world; imagining that every thing was derived from procreation, and the conjunction of two persons. The supreme Deity, one of these two first Beings, they call Taroataihetoomoo; and the other, Tepapa. The year which is called Tettowmatatayo, is supposed to be the daughter of the two first. They also imagine, that there is an inferior race of Deities, whom they call Eatuas. They say, two of these Eatuas formerly inhabited the earth, and that the first man descended from them.

They emphatically stile the supreme Being, the Causer of Earthquakes; but their prayers are more generally addressed to Tane, supposed to be a son of the first progenitors of nature.

They believe in the existence of the soul in a separate state, and that there are two situations, differing in their degrees of happiness, which they consider as receptacles for different ranks, but not as places of reward and punishment; they suppose, that their Chiefs and principal people will have the preference to those of inferior rank, as they imagine their actions no way influence their future state, and that their Deities take no cognizance of them whatsoever.

The office of priest is hereditary; there are several of them, and of all ranks; the Chief is respected next to their Kings, and they are superior to the rest of the natives not only in point of divine knowledge, but also in that of navigation and astronomy.

The priests here are no way concerned with the ceremony of marriage, it being a simple agreement between the man and woman; and when they chuse to separate, it is done with as little ceremony as that of their marriage.

These people do not seem to be any way guilty of idolatry, as they worship no kind of images whatever. They enter their morais with great reverence and humility, and when they bring their offering to the altar, their body is uncovered to the waist.

There is a subordination among them, that much resembles the early state of every nation in Europe under the feudal system, which secured, to a small number, the most unrestrained liberty, while the rest were abject slaves.

Their ranks or orders are, Earee rahie, which signifies King; Earee, Baron; Manahouni, Vassal; and Toutou, Villain. The Earee rahie, of which there are two, one belonging to each of the peninsulas of which this island consists, had great respect shewn them by all ranks. The Earees are Lords of one or more of the districts, into which each of the peninsulas is divided; and they separate their territories into lots, which are given to the Manahounies, who respectively cultivate that share which they hold under the baron. But they are only nominal cultivators, this as well as all other laborious work being done by the Toutous, or lower class of people.

The Sovereign or Earee rahie, and the Baron or Earee, are succeeded in titles and honours by their children as soon as they are born, the fathers being immediately divested of them; but they remain possessors and managers of their estates.

In case of a general attack upon the island, every district, under the command of an Earee, furnishes a proportionate number of fighting men for the defence of the common cause, and they are commanded in chief by the Earee rahie.⁠—According to Tupia’s account, the number furnished by the principal districts amounted to six thousand and upwards.

Slings, with which they are very dextrous, pikes headed with stone, and long clubs made of wood, remarkably hard and heavy, constitute their weapons. With these they fight with great obstinacy and cruelty, giving no quarter to either man, woman or child, if they fall into their hands in time of battle.

During the stay of the Endeavour, there was a perfect good understanding between the Earee rahies of the two peninsulas, though the Earee rahie of Tiarreboo, arrogated to himself the title of King of the whole island; which the other considered, as it really was, a mere nominal claim, and only a feather in his cap. There is nothing among them substituted for money, or a general medium, by which every object may be purchased or procured; neither can any permanent good be unlawfully obtained by force or fraud; and the general commerce with women, sets aside almost every excitement for committing adultery. In a word, in a government so little polished, though distributive justice cannot be regularly administered; as there can at the same time be but few crimes for the exercise of it, the want of this justice is not so severely felt, as it would be in more civilized societies.

Thursday July the 13th, after leaving the island of Otaheite, they sailed with a gentle breeze and clear weather; and were informed by Tupia, that four islands, which he called Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola, were at the distance of about one or two days sail, and that hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, which had lately been scarce, were to be got there in abundance. They accordingly steered their course in search of these islands, and on Saturday the 15th, discovered the island of Huaheine; and on the 16th, in the morning, they sounded near the north-west part of the island, but found no bottom with seventy fathom. Several canoes immediately put off, but they appeared fearful of coming near the ship, till they saw Tupia, which totally removed their apprehensions,and they ventured to come alongside, and upon assurances of friendship, the King of Huaheine and his Queen went on board. Astonishment was testified by their Majesties at every thing that was shewn them; yet they made no researches, and appeared satisfied with what was presented to their observation, making no enquiry after any other objects, though it was reasonable to suppose, that a building of such novelty and extent as the ship must have afforded many curiosities. The King, whose name was Oree, made a proposal to exchange names with Captain Cook, which was readily assented to. The custom of exchanging names is very prevalent in this island, and is considered as a mark of friendship. They found the people here nearly similar to those of Otaheite in almost every circumstance, except, if Tupia might be credited, they were not addicted to thieving. Having come to an anchor in a small but fine harbour, on the west side of the island, Captain Cook went ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and some other gentlemen, with Tupia and the King. The instant they landed, Tupia uncovered himself as low as his waist, and desired Mr. Monkhouse to follow his example. Being seated, he now begun a speech, which lasted about twenty minutes; the King, who stood opposite to him, answering in what seemed to be set replies. During this discourse he delivered, at different times, a handkerchief, a black silk neckcloth, some beads and plantains, as presents to their Eatua, or Deity. He received in return for the Eatua, of the English, a hog, some young plantains, and two bunches of feathers, which were carried on board. These ceremonies were considered as a kind of ratification of a treaty between the English and the King of Huaheine.

On the 17th they went again on shore, and walked up into the country, the productions of which greatly resembled those of Otaheite; the rocks and clay seemed, however, more burnt; the boat-houses were large, and the other houses neat. The level part of the country affords the most beautiful landscapes that the imagination can possibly form an idea of; the soil is exceedingly fertile, and the shores are lined with fruit trees of different kinds, particularly the cocoa-nut, which was seen in great abundance.

They also went on shore on the 18th without Tupia, but his boy, whose name was Tayota, accompanied them, and Mr. Banks proposed taking a more perfect view of a kind of chest, or ark, which he had before observed; the lid of this ark was sewed on in a peculiar manner, and thatched with palm-nut leaves. It was placed upon two poles, and sustained on small carved arches of wood, the poles served to remove it from one place to another, in the manner of a sedan chair; it is very surprising, that this chest was of a form greatly resembling the ark of the Lord among the Jews; but what was still more extraordinary, the boy informed them, that it was called Ewharre no Eatua, the house of the God, but he could give no account of its meaning or utility: with some difficulty they negotiated for eleven pigs, and were not without hopes of obtaining more the next morning.

Wednesday the 19th, they carried some hatchets with them, with which they procured three very large hogs. As they proposed to sail in the afternoon, the King, accompanied by some others of the natives, came on board to take his leave, when his Majesty received from Captain Cook a small pewter plate, with the following inscription. “His Britannic Majesty’s ship Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook Commander, 16 July, 1769.” He also was presented with some medals, or counters, resembling the coin of England, and a few other trifles.

This island is situated in the latitude of 16 degrees 43 minutes south, and longitude 150 degrees 52 minutes west; it is distant from Otaheite about thirty leagues, and is about twenty miles in circumference.

The productions of Huaheine, seem to be a month forwarder than those of Otaheite, as they found by several of the fruits, &c. Mr. Banks met with only a few new plants, but found a species of scorpion which he had not seen before.

The people are of a very lazy disposition, though they are stouter and larger made than those of Otaheite.

The women are much fairer than those of that island, and in general exceedingly handsome: both men and women seemed less susceptible of fear, and not so desirous of information.

From Huaheine they sailed for the island of Ulietea, and in the afternoon came within a league or two of the shore. The next morning, being the 20th, by the direction of Tupia, they anchored in a bay, which is formed by a reef, on the north side of the island; two canoes of natives soon came off from the shore, and brought with them two small hogs, which they exchanged for some nails and beads. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and some other gentlemen, now went on shore, accompanied by Tupia, who introduced them with the same kind of ceremonies that had taken place on their landing at Huaheine; after which, Capt. Cook took possession of this and the adjacent islands in the name of the King of Great Britain.

They then walked to a large Morai, which the natives called Tapodeboatea; they found that it differed considerably from the Morais of Otaheite, being composed of four walls, about eight or nine feet in height, built of very large coral-stones, which surrounded an area about thirty yards square: at a small distance they discovered an Ewhatta, or altar, upon which, as an oblation, was placed a whole hog, about a hundred pounds weight. At the front of this Morai, facing the sea, there was a kind of amphitheatre. There were likewise three or four Ewharee no Eatua, or houses of God, of the same kind as that which they saw at Huaheine.

On Friday the 21st, the Master was sent in the long-boat to inspect the coast on the south part of the island, and a Lieutenant was dispatched in the yawl, to sound the harbour where the Endeavour lay, while the Captain went in the pinnace to take a view of the coast on the north part of the island; in their return they saw a tree, of the same kind as that seen by Mr. Green at Otaheite, the circumference of the trunk, or rather congeries of the roots of which measured about forty yards.

On the 22d and 23d it being hazy weather with brisk gales, Captain Cook judged it rather unsafe to put to sea. On they 24th they got under sail, and steered to the northward within the reef, towards an opening five or six leagues distant; in effecting this, he was in the greatest danger of striking on a rock; the man who sounded, crying out on a sudden, two fathom, at which they were much alarmed, but happily got clear without receiving any damage.

The bay in which the Endeavour lay at anchor is called Oopoa; it is large enough to contain a great number of shipping, and is secured from the sea by a reef of rocks. It lies off the eastermost point of the island, and may be distinguished by a low woody island which lies to the south-east of it.

The provisions of this island consist chiefly of cocoa-nuts, yams, plantains, and a few hogs and fowls: that part of the country where they landed is not so fruitful as either Otaheite or Huaheine.

On the 25th they were within a league or two of the island of Otaha, but the wind continuing contrary, they could not get near enough to land till the 28th in the morning, when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went in the long-boat, with the Master, to sound a harbour on the east side of the island, which they found safe and convenient, with good anchorage. They then went on shore, and purchased some hogs and fowls, and a large quantity of yams and plantains.

This island appeared to be more barren than Ulietea, but the produce was much the same. The natives paid them the compliment they used towards their own Kings, by uncovering their shoulders, and wrapping their cloaths round their bodies; taking care no one should omit doing the same.

On the 29th they made sail to the northward, and at eight o’clock next morning they were close under the high craggy peak of the island of Bolabola. The island was inaccessible in this part, and they found it impossible to weather the south end of it till late at night. The next morning, Sunday the 30th, they discovered an island, which Tupia called Maurua, who said it was small, surrounded by a reef, and without any commodious harbour, but inhabited, and yielded nearly the same produce as the adjacent islands. In the middle is a high round hill, which may be seen at eleven or twelve leagues distance.

In the afternoon, finding themselves to windward of some harbours that lay on the west side of Ulietea, they intended to put into one of them, in order to stop a leak which they had sprung in the powder-room, and to take in some additional ballast. The wind being right against them, they plied on and off till the afternoon, of the 1st of August, when they came to an anchor in the entrance of the channel which led into one of the harbours.

Wednesday 2, in the morning, when the tide turned, they came into a proper place for mooring, in twenty-eight fathom. In the interim many of the natives came off, and brought hogs, fowls, and plantains, which were purchased upon very moderate terms.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on shore, and spent the day very agreeably; the natives shewing them great respect. Being conducted to the houses of the chief people, they were received in an uncommon manner. Upon their entrance into a house, they found those who had ran hastily before them, standing on each side of a long matt, spread upon the ground, and the family sitting at the further end of it. In one house they observed some very young girls, dressed in the neatest manner, who kept their places, waiting for the strangers to accost them: these girls were the most beautiful the gentlemen had ever seen.

One of them, who was about seven or eight years old, was dressed in a red gown, and her head was decorated with a great quantity of plaited hair; this ornament is called Tomou, and is held in great estimation among them. She was sitting at the upper end of one of their long mats, on which none of the people present presumed to set a foot; and her head was reclined on the arm of a decent looking woman, who appeared to be her nurse; when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander approached her, she stretched out her hand to receive some beads, which they presented to her, with an air of such dignity and gracefulness, as would have done honour to the first princess in Europe.

Before their departure they were entertained with a dance, different from any they had seen before. The performer put upon his head a large piece of wicker-work, about four feet long, of a cylindrical form, covered with feathers, and edged round with shark’s teeth. Having this head-dress on, which is called a Whou, he began to dance with a slow motion, frequently moving his head, so as to describe a circle with the top of his wicker cap, and sometimes throwing it so near the faces of the bye-standers, as to make them jump back; this they considered as an excellent piece of humour, and it always produced a hearty laugh, when practiced upon any of the English gentlemen.

On Thursday the 3d, as Mr. Banks and the Doctor were going along the shore to the northward, with a design to purchase stock, they met with a company of dancers, who retarded the progress of their excursion near two hours, and afforded them much diversion. The company was composed of six men and two women dancers, with three drums. They were informed, that these dancers were some of the principal people of the island, and though they were an itinerant troop, they did not, like the strolling parties of Otaheite, receive any gratuity from the by-standers. The women wore a considerable quantity of Tamou, or plaited hair, ornamented with the flowers of the cape jessamine, which were stuck in with taste, and made an elegant head dress. The womens necks, breasts and arms were naked; the other parts of the body were covered with black cloth, which was fastened close round them; and by the side of each breast, next the arms, was a small plume of black feathers, worn like a nosegay.

Thus apparelled they advanced sideways, keeping time with great exactness to the drums, which beat quick and loud; soon after, they began to shake themselves in a very whimsical manner, and put their bodies into a variety of strange postures, sometimes standing in a row one behind another, sometimes sitting down, and at others falling with their faces to the ground, and resting on their knees and elbows, moving their fingers at the same time with a quickness scarcely to be credited. The chief dexterity, however, of the dancers, as well as the amusement of the spectators, consisted in the lasciviousness of their attitudes and gestures, which decency forbids us to describe.

Between the dances of the women, a kind of dramatic interlude was performed by the men, consisting of dialogue as well as dancing; but for want of a sufficient knowledge of their language, they could not learn the subject of this interlude.

Friday the 4th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gentlemen, were present at a more regular dramatic entertainment. The performers, who were all men, were divided into two parties, one dressed in brown, and the other in white, by way of distinction. Tupia being present, informed them, that the party in brown acted the parts of a master and his servants, and the party in white a gang of thieves; the master having produced a basket of meat, which he gave in charge to his servants; the white party exhibited a variety of expedients, in endeavouring to steal this basket, and the brown set as many in preventing the accomplishment of their design. After some time had been spent in this manner, those to whom the basket was entrusted, laying themselves down on the ground round it, pretended to fall asleep; the other party availing themselves of this opportunity, stole gently upon them, and carried off their booty; the servants awaking soon after discovered their loss, but they made no search after the basket, and began to dance with as much alacrity as before.

On Saturday the 5th, some hogs and fowls, and several large pieces of cloth, many of them being fifty or sixty yards in length, together with a quantity of plantains and cocoa-nuts, were sent to Captain Cook as a present, from the Earee rahie of the island of Bolabola, accompanied with a message, that he was then on the island, and intended waiting on the Captain the next day.

On Sunday the 6th, the King of Bolabola did not visit them agreeable to his promise, his absence, however, was not in the least regretted, as he sent three very agreeable young women to demand something in return for his present. After dinner, they set out to pay the King a visit on shore, as he did not think proper to come on board. As this man was the Earee rahie of the Bolabola men, who had conquered this, and were the dread of all the neighbouring islands, they were greatly disappointed, instead of finding a vigorous, enterprising young Chief, to see a poor feeble decrepid old dotard, half blind, and sinking under the weight of age and infirmities. He received them without either that state or ceremony which they had hitherto met with among the other Chiefs.

On Wednesday the 9th, having stopped their leak, and taken on board their fresh stock of provisions, they sailed out of the harbour. Tho’ they were several leagues distant from the island of Bolabola, Tupia earnestly entreated Captain Cook, that a shot might be fired towards it; which, to gratify him, the Captain complied with. This was supposed to have been intended by Tupia as a mark of his resentment against the inhabitants of that place, as they had formerly taken from him large possessions which he held in the island of Ulietea, of which island Tupia was a native, and a subordinate Chief, but was driven out by these people.

They had great plenty of provisions, as well of hogs and fowls, as of vegetables, during the time they continued in the neighbourhood of those islands, so that they were not obliged to use any considerable quantity of the ship’s provisions, and they had flattered themselves, that the fowls and hogs would have supplied them with fresh provisions during the course of their voyage to the southward; but in this they were unhappily disappointed, for as the hogs could not be brought to eat any sort of European grain, or any provender whatever that the ship afforded, they were reduced to the disagreeable necessity of killing them immediately on their leaving those islands; and the fowls all died of a disease in their head, with which they were seized soon after they had been carried on board.

As they were detained longer at Ulietea in repairing the ship than they expected, they did not go on shore at Bolabola; but, after giving the general name of the Society Islands to the islands of Huhaheine, Ulietea, Bolabola, Otaha and Maurua, which lie between the latitude of 16 deg. 10 min. and 16 deg. 55 min. south, they pursued their course, standing southwardly for an island, to which they were directed by Tupia, at above an hundred leagues distant, which they discovered on Sunday the 13th, and were informed by him, that it was called Ohiteroa. The next morning they stood in for land, and saw several of the inhabitants along the shore; one of the Lieutenants was now dispatched in the pinnace, to sound for anchorage, and obtain what intelligence he could of the natives, respecting any land that might lay further to the south. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia went also in the boat, with the Lieutenant, when they came near the shore, they could perceive that the inhabitants were armed with lances of a considerable length. The appearance of the boat soon drew together a great number of them upon the beech, two of whom leaped into the water, and endeavoured to gain the boat, but she soon left them behind; several others made the same attempt, but with as little success.

The boat having doubled the point where they intended to land, opened a large bay, and discovered another party of the natives standing at the end of it, armed in the same manner as those they had already seen. The boat’s crew now rowed towards the shore, and began to make preparations for landing, upon which a canoe, with some of the natives on board, came off towards them; they ordered Tupia to acquaint these people, that they did not intend doing them any injury, but wanted to traffick with them with nails, which they shewed them; this information encouraged them to come along-side the boat, and they accepted of some nails, which were given them with much apparent pleasure and satisfaction; it soon appeared, however, to be nothing more than dissimulation; for, in a few minutes, several of them unexpectedly boarded the boat, with an intention of dragging her on shore; some musquets were immediately discharged over their heads, which had the desired effect, all of them leaping directly into the sea; and as soon as they reached the canoe, they put back to the shore as fast as they could paddle, where a vast concourse of their countrymen were assembled to receive them. They were followed to the shore by the people in the boat, who found the surf so violent, that they did not think it safe to attempt landing. They therefore coasted along the shore, in hopes of finding a place where they might land with less danger; presently after the canoe got on shore, a man with a lance in his hand ran along opposite to the boat, flourishing his weapon, and calling out with a shrill voice, which, upon enquiry of Tupia, they were informed was a mark of defiance.

Not being able to find a more convenient landing place, they returned, with a design of attempting it at the place where the canoe went on shore: as they were going back, the same mode of defiance was repeated by another warrior of a more formidable appearance than the first; having a high cap on, made of the tail feathers of a bird, and his body painted with streaks of a variety of colours. When this man retired, another advanced in years, with a grave and sedate countenance, made his appearance upon the beach, and asked them several questions, such as from whence they came, whither they were bound, and who they were. Tupia having answered these questions, and repeated his assurances, that our intentions were amicable, they appeared to be somewhat pacified. The people in the boat now proposed going on shore, to trade with them for such articles as they chose to dispose of, if they would quit their weapons; but they would not agree to this proposal on any other terms, than the English leaving their musquets behind them in the boat; with this, however, prudence would not permit them to comply, especially as they had so lately experienced the dissembling nature of these people. They therefore gave over all hopes of establishing a friendly intercourse with them, and returned to the ship. And as neither the bay which the boat entered, nor any other part of the island afforded either harbour or anchorage, the Captain did not think it worth while to attempt a second landing.

The people of this island are very tall, well proportioned, and have long hair, which, like the inhabitants of the other islands, they tie in a bunch on the top of their head; they are likewise tataowed on different parts of their bodies, but not on their posteriors.

This island does not shoot up into high peaks, like the others which they visited, but is more level and uniform, and divided into small hillocks, some of which are covered with groves of trees; they saw no bread-fruit, and not many cocoa-nut trees, but great numbers of the tree called Etoa, were planted all along the shore.

Their cloth, as well as the manner of wearing it, differed in many respects from any they had met with; all that they saw was died yellow, and painted on the outside with a variety of colours. Their habit consisted only of one piece with a hole made in the middle of it, thro’ which they put their head; it reaches as low as their knees, and is tied close round their bodies with a kind of yellow sash; some of them wear caps of the same kind as that already mentioned, and others bind their heads with a piece of cloth resembling a turban.

On Tuesday, the 15th of August, they sailed from this island to the Southward, with a fine breeze from the north, and clear pleasant weather; and on the 16th it being rather hazy, they were deceived by an appearance like several high peaks of land, for which they bore away, but the weather clearing up, convinced them of their mistake, and they resumed their course to the south.

On Friday the 25th, they celebrated the anniversary of their leaving England, from whence they had now been absent one year: a large Cheshire cheese, which had been carefully preserved for that purpose, was brought out, and a barrel of porter tapped, which proved to be as good as any they had ever drank in England. On the 29th John Raden, the Boatswain’s mate, died; this man’s death was occasioned by drinking too freely of some rum which was given him by the Boatswain. On the 30th, about four o’clock in the morning, they saw a large comet about 60 degrees above the horizon.

On Thursday the 7th of October, they discovered land at west by north, and in the afternoon, of the next day, they came to an anchor opposite the mouth of a little river about a mile and a half from the shore. The Captain, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gentlemen, accompanied by a party of marines, went on shore in the evening, in the pinnace and yawl.

Having left the pinnace at the entrance of the river, Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, &c. proceeded a little farther up, when they landed, and leaving the yawl to the care of some of their boys, went up to a few small houses which they saw at a little distance. Taking the advantage of their absence from the boat, some of the natives, who had concealed themselves behind the bushes, suddenly rushed out, and ran towards it, brandishing the long wooden lances which they had in their hands in a threatening manner. The boys perceiving them, instantly dropt down the stream, but were very closely pursued by the Indians; the Cockswain of the pinnace therefore fired a musquetoon over their heads, which did not seem to intimidate them, as they still continued their pursuit; he then fired a second time over their heads, but with no better effect; alarmed at the situation of the boat, as they were now got near enough to discharge their lances at it, the Cockswain levelled his piece at them, and shot one man dead on the spot. Struck with astonishment at the fall of their companion, the others stood motionless for some time, but as soon as they recovered from their fright, retreated to the woods with the utmost precipitation. The report of the gun soon brought the advanced party back to the boats, and both the pinnace and yawl immediately returned to the ship.

On Monday the 9th in the morning, a great number of the natives were seen near the place where the gentlemen in the yawl had landed the preceding evening, and the greatest part of them appeared to be unarmed. The long-boat, pinnace and yawl, being ordered out, and manned with marines and sailors, Captain Cook, together with Mr. Banks, the rest of the gentlemen and Tupia went on shore, and landed on the opposite side of the river, over against several Indians who were sitting on the ground; as soon as the gentlemen began to land, they immediately started up, each producing either a long pike, or a kind of truncheon made of stone, with a string through the handle of it, which they twisted round their wrist. Tupia was ordered to speak to them in his language; and the gentlemen were agreeably surprized to find that he was well understood, the natives speaking the Otaheitean language, only in a different dialect. Their intentions at first appeared to be very hostile, brandishing their weapons in the usual threatening manner; upon which a musquet was fired at some distance from them, at the effect of which the ball happening to strike the water, they appeared rather terrified, and desisted from their menaces. The marines being drawn up, the Captain, with four or five of the gentlemen and Tupia, advanced nearer to the side of the river; Tupia again spoke to them, and informed them, that they wanted to traffick with them for provisions. They readily consented to trade, and requested the English gentlemen to cross the river and come over to them; which was agreed to, upon condition that the natives would quit their weapons; but this the most solemn assurances of friendship could not prevail on them to comply with. Not thinking it prudent therefore to cross the river, as they would not be persuaded to lay by their arms, the gentlemen in their turn intreated the Indians to come over to them, which after some time they prevailed on one of them to do; he was presently followed by several others, bringing their weapons with them. They did not appear to set any great value on the beads, iron, &c. which was presented to them, nor would they give any thing in return, but proposed to exchange their weapons for those belonging to the English, which being consequently objected to, they endeavoured several times to snatch them out of their hands. But as the gentlemen were on their guard, from the information given them by Tupia that they were still their enemies, their attempts to seize the arms were repeatedly frustrated, and Tupia, by the direction of the gentlemen, gave them notice, that any further offer of violence would be punished with instant death. One of them had, nevertheless, the audacity to snatch Mr. Green’s hanger, and retiring a few paces, flourished it over his head; he, however, paid for this temerity with his life, Mr. Monkhouse firing at him with a musquet loaded with ball; and that gentleman afterwards, with some difficulty, recovered the hanger, one of the Indians endeavouring to seize it.

This behaviour of the natives, added to the want of fresh water, induced Captain Cook to continue his course round the head of the bay. He was still in hopes of getting some of the Indians on board, and by presents, added to civil usage, convey through them a favourable idea of the English to their fellow countrymen; and thereby settle a good correspondence with them. Soon after an event occured, though attended with disagreeable circumstances, that promised to facilitate this design. Two canoes appeared making towards land, and Captain Cook proposed intercepting them with his boats. One of them got clear off, but the Indians in the other finding it impossible to escape the boats, began to attack them with their paddles: this compelled the Endeavour’s people to fire upon them, when four of the Indians were killed, and the other three, who were youths, jumped into the water, and endeavoured to swim to shore: they were however taken up and brought on board. They were at first greatly terrified, thinking they should be killed; but Tupia, by repeated assurances of friendship, removed their fears, and they afterwards eat very heartily of the ship’s provisions. When they retired to rest, in the evening, they appeared perfectly easy in their minds, and slept very quietly for some hours, but in the middle of the night their fears again returned, and they appeared in great agitation, frequently making loud and dismal groans. After some time, however, the friendly promises and kind caresses of Tupia again prevailed over their fears, and they became so calm and resigned as to sing a song, the tune of which was solemn and slow, and, at the dead of night, when an universal silence prevailed throughout the ship, had an awful and pleasing effect. The next morning, after they were dressed and ornamented, according to the mode of their country, with necklaces and bracelets, Captain Cook proposed setting them on shore, that they might give a favourable report to their countrymen of the reception they had met with. They testified much satisfaction when told they were going to be released: but seemed under great apprehensions of danger, at finding the boat approach Captain Cook’s first landing-place, intimating, that the inhabitants here were their foes, and that they always killed and ate their enemies. The Captain, nevertheless, judged it expedient to land near the same spot, which he accordingly did with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander and Tupia, resolving at the same time to protect the youths from any injury that might be offered them. The gentlemen had not been long on shore before the boys left them, but on seeing two large parties of the Indians advancing hastily towards them, they returned, and again put themselves under their protection. As the Indians drew nearer, one of the boys discovered his uncle amongst them, and a conversation took place between them across the river, in which the lad gave a very just account of the hospitality he had met with, and took great pains to display their cloaths and finery. Soon after the uncle swam across the river, bringing with him a green bow, as a token of friendship, which was received as such, and several presents were made him. The body of the Indian, who was shot the day before, lay in the same place where he fell: one of the boys had covered it with part of his cloaths; and after the gentlemen had retired, the Indian performed a kind of ceremony over it, by throwing a green branch towards it, and the body was afterwards carried in a raft across the river. Notwithstanding the presence of the uncle of one of the boys, all three of them, by their own desire, returned to the ship, but as the Captain intended sailing the next morning, he sent them on shore again in the evening, though much against their inclination; the names of these boys were Taahourange, Koikerange and Maragovete. They informed Captain Cook, that there was a particular kind of deer upon the island, likewise taro, eapes, romara, yams, a kind of long pepper, bald coote, and black birds.

On the 11th Captain Cook set sail, in hopes of finding a better anchoring place, after giving this bay (called by the natives Toaneora) the name of Poverty Bay; and the south-west point he called Young Nick’s Head, on account of its being first perceived by a lad on board named Nicholas Young. They were becalmed in the afternoon, and several canoes came off from the shore with Indians, who received many presents, and afterwards bartered even their cloaths, and some of their paddles, so eager were they of being possessed of as many European commodities as possible. A single tree formed the bottom of their canoes, and the upper part consisted of two planks sewed together: they sat on thwarts; their paddles were painted red, representing many uncommon figures, and were curiously wrought.

They were armed with bludgeons made of wood, and of the bone of a large animal; they called them Patoo, Patoo, and they were well contrived for close fighting.

After they had finished their traffic, they set off in such a hurry, that they forgot three of their companions, who remained on board all night.

They testified their fears and apprehensions, notwithstanding Tupia took great pains to convince them they were in no danger; and about seven the next morning a canoe came off, with four Indians on board. It was at first with difficulty the Indians in the ship could prevail on those in the canoe to come near them; and it was not till after the former had assured them that the English did not eat men, that they came along-side the Endeavour. The Chief came on board, whose face was tataowed, with a remarkable patoo patoo in his hand; and in this canoe the three Indians left the ship. Captain Cook gave the name of Cape Table to a point of land about seven leagues to the south of Poverty Bay, its figure greatly resembling a table; and the island, called by the natives Teabowry, he named Portland Island, it being very similar to that of the same name in the British Channel. It is joined to the main by a chain of rocks, near a mile in length, partly above water. There are several shoals, called shambles, about three miles to the north-east of Portland, one of which the Endeavour narrowly escaped; there is, however, a passage between them with 20 fathom water. Some parts of Portland Island, as well as the Main, were cultivated; and pumice-stone in great quantities lying along the shore, within the bay, indicated that there is a volcano in the island. High pailings upon the ridges of hills were also visible in two places, which were judged to be designed for religious purposes.

On the 12th several Indians came off in a canoe; they were disfigured in a strange manner, danced and sung, and appeared at times to be peaceably inclined, and at others to menace hostilities; but, notwithstanding Tupia strongly invited them to come on board, none of them would quit the canoe. Whilst the Endeavour was getting clear of the shambles, five canoes full of Indians came off, and seemed to threaten the people on board, by brandishing their lances, and other hostile gestures; a four pounder, loaded with grape shot, was therefore ordered to be fired, but not pointed at them. This had the desired effect, and made them drop a-stern. Two more canoes came off, whilst the Endeavour lay at anchor; but the Indians on board behaved very peaceably and quiet, and received several presents, but would not come on board.

On Friday the 13th, in the morning, they made for an inlet, but finding it not sheltered they stood out again, and were chaced by a canoe, filled with Indians, but the Endeavour out-sailed them. She pursued her course round the bay, but did not find an opening.

The next morning they had a view of the inland country; it was mountainous, and covered with snow in the interior parts, but the land towards the sea was flat and uncultivated, and in may places there were groves of high trees. Nine canoes full of Indians came from the shore, and five of them, after having consulted together, pursued the Endeavour, apparently with an hostile design. Tupia was desired to acquaint them that immediate destruction would ensue, if they persevered in their attempts; but words had no influence, and a four pounder, with grape shot, was fired, to give them some notion of the arms of their opponents. They were terrified at this kind of reasoning, and paddled away faster than they came. Tupia then hailed the fugitives, and acquainted them, that if they came in a peaceable manner, and left their arms behind, no annoyance would be offered them: one of the canoes submitting to these terms, came along side the ship, and received many presents; but the other canoes returning, and persisting in the same menacing behaviour, interrupted this friendly intercourse.

The following day, Sunday the 15th, they were visited by some fishing boats, the people in which conducted themselves in an amicable manner; though the fish which they had on board had been caught so long that they were not eatable, Captain Cook purchased them, merely for the sake of promoting a traffick with the natives. In the afternoon a large canoe, with a number of armed Indians, came up, and one of them who was remarkably cloathed, with a black skin, found means to defraud the Captain of a piece of red baize, under pretence of bartering the skin he had on for it. As soon as he had got the baize into his possession, instead of giving the skin in return agreeable to his bargain, he rolled them up together, and ordered the canoe to put off from the ship, turning a deaf ear to the repeated remonstrances of the Captain against his unjust behaviour. After a short time this canoe, together with the fishing boats which had put off at the same time, came back to the ship, and trade was again begun. During this second traffick with the Indians, one of them unexpectedly seized Tupia’s little boy Tayota, and pulling him into his canoe instantly put her off, and paddled away with the utmost speed; several musquets were immediately discharged at the people in the canoe, and one of them receiving a wound they all let go the boy, who before was held down in the bottom of the canoe. Tayota taking the advantage of their consternation, immediately jumped into the sea, and swam back towards the Endeavour, he was taken on board, without having received any harm; but his strength was so much exhausted with the weight of his cloaths, that it was with great difficulty he reached the ship. In consequence of this attempt to carry off Tayota, Captain Cook called the Cape off which it happened Cape Kidnappers, lying in latitude 39 deg. 43 min. and longitude 182 deg. 24 min. west, and is very distinguishable by high cliffs and white rocks, that surround it. Its distance from Portland Island is about 13 leagues, forming the south point of a bay, which the Captain named Hawke’s Bay, in honour of Sir Edward, who then presided at the admiralty board.

As every circumstance that tends to elucidate the manners and customs of these people must attract the attention of the curious reader, we cannot omit Tayota’s behaviour upon recovering from his fright, occasioned by his being kidnapped. He produced a fish, and acquainted Tupia, that he designed to make an offering of it to his God, or Eatua, as a testimonial of his gratitude for his deliverance. Tupia approved of his intention, and by his direction the fish was cast into the sea. This is an evident proof, that even these unenlightened savages, by the mere impulse of nature, believe in the existence of a particular providence.

The Endeavour now passed a small island, white and high, supposed to be inhabited only by fishermen, as it appeared quite barren, and was named Bare Island. On the 17th Captain Cook gave the name of Cape Turn Again to a head-land, in latitude 40 deg. 34 min. S. longitude, 182 deg. 55 min. west, because the Endeavour here turned again. Before the Endeavour touched at New Zealand, it was not certainly known whether it was an island, or part of the continent, wherefore the lords of the admiralty had, by their instructions, directed Captain Cook to sail along the coasts as far as 40 degrees south latitude, and from thence, if the land appeared to extend farther, to return again to the northward. Agreeable to these instructions, the Captain being opposite to Cape Turn Again, changed his course from south to north; and the wind having likewise veered to the south, he returned nearly in his former track, sailing along the coast. This Cape is remarkable for a stratum of clay of a bright brown colour; its prominence gradually diminishes towards the north-side, but to the south its descent is not so regular.

The land between this Cape and Kidnapper’s Bay is unequal, and resembles the high downs of England. There appeared numerous inhabitants, and several villages. Wednesday the 18th the Endeavour came a-breast of a peninsula in Portland Island, named Terakako, when a canoe, with five Indians, came up to the ship. Two Chiefs who were in this canoe came on board, where they remained all night, and were treated with great civility. One of the Chiefs was a remarkable comely man, and his countenance was open and prepossessing. Their curiosity was uncommon, and their acknowledgments, for the trifling presents they received, were extremely grateful. The Chiefs would neither eat nor drink, but the servants made up for their masters abstinence, by their voracious appetites. The three boys had given these natives an account of the hospitality and liberality of the English, which had prevailed upon them to pay this visit.

Thursday the 19th the Endeavour passed a remarkable head land, which Captain Cook named Gable End Foreland. It is distinguished by a rock, in the shape of a church spire, which is very near it. Here three canoes came up, and one Indian came on board; he received some small presents, and retired to his companions. He wore a new garment of white silky flax, with a border of black, red and white.

Many of the Indians had pieces of green-stone round their necks, by way of necklaces; they were transparent, like an emerald, and appeared, on examination, to be a species of Nephritic-stone, of which all their ornaments of this kind consisted. Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen obtained several pieces of it.

The dialect of these Indians was not so guttural as that of the others, and they spoke the most like the inhabitants of Otaheite. The physiognomy of some was agreeable, their noses being rather prominent than flat.

On the 20th they anchored in a bay, about two leagues to the north of the Foreland. The natives in canoes invited them hither, and behaved very amicably. There appeared to be two Chiefs, who came on board: they received presents of linen, which gave them much satisfaction; but they did not hold spike-nails in such estimation as the inhabitants of some of the islands. They were dressed in jackets, the one ornamented with tufts of red feathers, the other with dog’s skin. The other Indians in the canoes traded with the Endeavour’s people, without attempting any imposition; and towards the evening the Chiefs returned. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, now went on shore, and were courteously received by the inhabitants, who did not appear in numerous bodies, to avoid giving offence. They received several trifling presents, and the Captain had the pleasure to find fresh water, in the course of a tour round the bay. They remained on shore all night, and next day Mr. Banks and the Doctor discovered several plants, and many beautiful birds, particularly quails and large pigeons. There were some houses with fences, to shelter them from the wind, and many stages for drying fish near the place where the gentlemen landed. Dogs with small pointed ears, and very ugly, were the only tame animals among them. At the watering-place the Captain ordered a line to be drawn, and enjoined the natives not to pass it, which injunction they civilly complied with. Many houses were contiguous, and the lands in the adjacent vallies were regular flats, neatly laid out in small plantations, the ground appearing to be broken, as if designed for gardens. They have sweet potatoes, like those of North America, in great quantities; and the cloth plant grows here spontaneously. There is plenty of fish in the bay, such as crabs, cray-fish, and ship-jacks or horse mackrel, which are larger than those upon our coasts. The number of supple jacks that grow in the adjacent woods, render them almost impassable; but they thereby afford shelter to their feathered inhabitants: the flat land was planted with cocos, and the hollow parts with gourds. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander visited several of the natives houses, and they met with a very civil reception. Fish constituted their principal food at this time, and the root of a sort of fern served them for bread, which when roasted upon a fire, and divested of its bark, was sweet and clammy; in taste not disagreeable, but unpleasant from its number of fibres. Vegetables were, doubtless, at other seasons very plentiful. The women paint their faces red, which so far from increasing, diminishes the very little beauty they have. The mens faces were not in general painted, but some were rubbed over with red ocre from head to foot, their apparel not excepted. Though they could not be compared to the inhabitants of Otaheite for cleanliness in general, they surpassed them in this respect in some particulars. Every dwelling was supplied with a privy, and they had dunghills for depositing dirt and filth. The women wore a girdle made of the blade of grass under a petticoat, and to this girdle was tied in front a bunch of fragrant leaves. They seemed to hold chastity in but little estimation, many of the young females resorting to the watering-place, where they bountifully bestowed every favour that was requested. One of the officers on shore, meeting with an elderly woman, he accompanied her to her house, and having presented her with some cloth and beads, a young girl was singled out, and he was given to understand he might retire with her. Soon after an elderly man, with two women, came in as visitors, and with much formality saluted all the company, according to the custom of the place, which is by gently joining the tips of their noses together. The officer upon his return was furnished with a guide, who led him a much better road than that he had come, and whenever they came to a brook or rivulet, the Indian took him upon his back to preserve him from being wet; several of the inhabitants were curiously tataowed, and one old man, in particular, was marked on the breast with various figures. There was an axe made of the green stone, already mentioned, which could not be purchased, though many things were offered in exchange. At night they danced in a very uncouth manner, making antick gestures, lolling out their tongues, with other strange grimaces; and in these dances old men with grey beards were, as well as the young ones, capital performers. They carried their civility so far, as to assist Mr. Banks and his company with one of their canoes to carry them on board; but the Endeavour’s people being unacquainted with the method of steering such a vessel, she was overset, but no one was drowned; and they reached the ship without any farther accident, some of the Indians having voluntarily engaged to conduct her. During the stay of the gentlemen on shore, many of the natives went off in their canoes, and trafficked with the ship’s company, preferring at first the cloth of Otaheite to that of Europe; but it soon diminished in its value. Several of the Indians went on board, and testified their curiosity and surprise, with regard to the different parts of the ship.

Sunday 22, in the evening, they sailed from this bay, which by the natives is called Tegadoo, and lies in latitude 38 deg. 10 min. south. The wind being contrary, they put into another bay a little to the south, called by the natives Tolaga, in order to complete their wood and water, and extend their correspondence with the natives; in this bay they came to an anchor in about eleven fathom water, with a good sandy bottom. Several canoes appeared, with Indians on board, and they trafficked very fairly for glass bottles and cloth. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and the Doctor, went in the afternoon to examine the water, and found it extremely good; here was also plenty of wood, and the natives behaved with as much civility as those they had just departed from.

On the 24th, Mr. Gore and the marines were sent on shore, to guard the people employed in cutting wood and filling water. Captain Cook, Mr. Banks and the Doctor also went on shore; the two latter employed themselves in collecting plants. In their route they found in the vales many houses uninhabited, the natives residing chiefly in slight sheds, on the ridges of the hills, which are very steep. In a valley between two very high hills they saw a curious rock, that formed a large arch, opposite to the sea; this cavity was in length above seventy feet, in breadth thirty, and near fifty in height; it commanded a view of the hills and the bay, which had a very happy effect. Indeed, the whole country about the bay is agreeable beyond description, and if properly cultivated would be a most fertile spot. The hills are covered with beautiful flowering shrubs, intermixed with a great number of tall and stately palms, which perfume the air, and make it most agreeably odoriferous. Mr. Banks and the Doctor found the tree that produces the cabbage, which, when boiled, was very good; and some other trees that yielded a fine transparent gum. Between the hills were fruitful villages, that might have been successfully cultivated, or turned into pasturage. Various kinds of edible herbage, were met with in great abundance, and there was reason to believe there were many trees that produced fruit fit to eat, some of which the gentlemen examined. The plant, from which the cloth is made, is a kind of Hemerocallis, the leaves of which afford a strong glossy flax, equally adapted to cloathing, as making of ropes. There are sweet potatoes and yam plantations near their houses, which are carefully cultivated. These gentlemen, upon their return, met an old man, who entertained them with the military exercises of the natives, which are performed with the Patoo Patoo, and the lance. The former has already been mentioned, and is used as a battle-axe; the latter is ten or twelve feet in length, made of extreme hard wood, and sharpened at each end. A stake was substituted for their old warriors supposed enemy; he first attacked him with his lance, when, having pierced him, the Patoo Patoo was used to demolish his head, and the force with which he struck would at one blow have split any man’s skull. This mode of fighting induced the gentlemen to believe no quarter was ever given here in war. The natives in this part are not very numerous; they are tolerably well shaped, but lean and tall; their faces resemble those of Europeans; their noses are aqueline; their eyes dark coloured; their hair is black, which is tied up on the top of their heads, and their beards are of a moderate length. Their tataowing is done very curiously in various figures, which makes their skin resemble carving; it is confined to the principal men, the females and servants using only red paint, with which they daub their faces, that otherwise would not be disagreeable. Their cloth is white, glossy and very even; it is worn principally by the men, though it is wrought by the women, who, indeed, are condemned to all the drudgery and labour.

On the 25th an armourer’s forge was set up on shore for necessary uses. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again in search of plants. Tupia, who was with them engaged in a conversation with one of the priests, and they seemed to agree in their opinions upon the subject of religion. Tupia, in the course of this conference, enquired, whether the report of their eating men was founded in truth; to which the priest replied it was, but that they ate none but declared foes, after they were killed in war. This idea is, however, horrid and barbarous, and proves that they carry their resentment even beyond death.

Captain Cook and Dr. Solander went on the 27th to inspect the bay, when the Doctor was not a little surprised to find the natives in the possession of a boy’s top, which they knew how to spin by whipping it, and he purchased it out of curiosity. Mr. Banks was during this time employed in attaining the summit of a steep hill, that had previously engaged their attention; and near it he found many uninhabited houses. Here were two rows of poles about fourteen or fifteen feet high, covered over with sticks, which made an avenue of about five feet in width, extending near a hundred yards down the hill in an irregular line: the intent of this erection was not discovered. When the gentlemen met at the watering-place, the Indians, by desire, sung their war song, which was a strange medley of shouting, sighing and grimace, at which the women assisted. The next day Captain Cook and the other gentlemen went upon an island at the entrance of the bay, and met with a canoe that was sixty seven feet in length, six in breadth, and four in height; her bottom, which was sharp, consisted of three trunks of trees, and the sides and head were curiously carved. There was a large unfinished house upon this island; the posts which supported it were ornamented with carvings, that did not appear to be done upon the spot; and as the inhabitants seem to set a great value upon works of this kind, future navigators might find their advantage in carrying such articles to trade with. Though the posts of this house were judged to be brought here, the people have certainly a taste for carving, as their boats, paddles, and tops of walking-sticks evince. Their favourite figure is a volute or spiral, which is sometimes single, double and triple, and is done with great exactness, though the only instruments the gentlemen saw were an axe made of stone, and a chissel. Their taste, however, must be acknowledged whimsical and extravagant, scarce ever imitating nature.

Their huts are built under trees; their form is an oblong square: the door is low on the side, and the windows are at the ends; reeds, covered with thatch, compose the walls; the beams of the eaves, which come to the ground, are covered with thatch; most of the houses the gentlemen saw had been deserted, through fear of the English upon their landing. There are many beautiful parrots, and great numbers of birds of different kinds, particularly one whose note resembled the European black bird; but here is no ground fowl or poultry; nor were there any quadrupeds, except rats and dogs, and these were not numerous. The dogs are considered as delicate food, and their skins serve for ornaments to their apparel. There is a great variety of fish in the bay: shell and crayfish is very plentiful; some of the latter weigh near a dozen pounds.

Sunday, Oct 29, they set sail from this bay, which is called by the natives Tolaga. It is seated in latitude 38 deg. 22 min. south, four leagues to the north of Gable end Foreland: there are two high rocks at the entrance of the bay, which form a cove very convenient for procuring wood and water. There is a high rocky island off the north point of the bay, which affords good anchorage, having a fine sandy bottom, and from seven to thirteen fathom water, and is likewise sheltered from all but the north-east wind.

Captain Cook obtained nothing here in trade but some sweet potatoes, and a little fish. This is a very hilly country, though it presents the eye with an agreeable verdure, various woods, and many small plantations. Mr. Banks met with a great number of trees in the woods, quite unknown to Europeans; the firewood resembled the maple tree, and produced a gum of whitish colour; other trees yielded a gum of deep yellow green. The only roots they met with were yams and sweet potatoes, though the soil appears very proper for producing every species of vegetables.

Sailing to the northward, they fell in with a small island, about a mile distant from the north-east point of the main; and this being the most eastern part of it, the Captain named it East Cape, and the island East Island: it was but small, and appeared barren. The cape is in latitude 37 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds south. There are many small bays from Tolaga Bay to East Cape. When the Endeavour had doubled the cape, many villages presented themselves to view, and the adjacent land appeared cultivated. In the evening of the 30th, Lieutenant Hicks discovered a bay, to which his name was given. Next morning, about nine, several canoes came off from shore with a number of armed men, who appeared to have hostile intentions. Before these had reached the ship, another canoe, larger than any that had yet been seen, full of armed Indians came off, and made towards the Endeavour with great expedition. The Captain now judging it expedient to prevent, if possible, their attacking him, ordered a gun to be fired over their heads; this not producing the desired effect, another gun was fired with ball, which threw them into such consternation, that they immediately returned much faster than they came. This precipitate retreat, induced the Captain to give the cape, off which it happened, the name of Cape Runaway, which lies in latitude 37 degrees 32 minutes, longitude 181 degrees 48 minutes. Next morning, at day break, they saw between forty and fifty canoes along shore, many of which came off in the manner they had done the day before, shouting, and menacing an attack. One of their Chiefs in the largest of the canoes made several harangues, and by the menacing flourish of his pike, seemed to bid the ship defiance; but the gentlemen continuing to invite them to trade, they at last came close along-side, and the Chief who had been declaiming, after uttering a sentence, took up a stone and threw it against the side of the ship, which appeared to be a declaration of hostilities, as they instantly seized their arms; Tupia told them, that immediate destruction would ensue, if they persevered in their design, and at the same time assured them of the gentlemens pacific intentions, and that they only wanted to traffick with them. Neither his threats nor persuasions would probably have had any effect, had he not at the same time shewn them some pieces of cloth, which attracted their eye, and brought them to reason. The gentlemen now purchased a great quantity of cray-fish, muscles and conger-eels. These Indians did not attempt any fraud in their trading; but some others, who succeeded them, took the goods from the ship without making proper returns: one of them, who had been particularly culpable, and seemed to pride himself upon his cunning, putting off with his canoe, was brought back by a musquet being fired over his head, and this presently produced good order. But when the sailors began to traffick with the Indians, they renewed their former fraudulent practices, with great insolence. One of them seized some linen that was hanging to dry, and made off with it; a musquet was fired over his head to make him return, but this did not prevail, and even after another was fired at him with small shot, which hit him in the back, he still persevered in his design. Upon this the rest of the Indians dropt a-stern at some distance, and set up their song of defiance. They did not, however, make any preparations for attacking the ship; but the Captain judged, that if he suffered them to go off without convincing them of his power of avenging the insult, it might give an unfavourable opinion of the English, to the natives on shore. He accordingly fired a four pounder, which passed over them, and the effect it had in the water terrified them so greatly, that they made to shore with the utmost precipitancy. In the afternoon they descried a high island to the west, and some time after perceived some other islands and rocks in the same quarter; not being able to weather them before night came on, they bore up between them and the main-land. About seven in the evening a double canoe, built like those at Otaheite, but carved after their peculiar manner, came up to the ship, and Tupia entered into a friendly conversation with the Indians on board; when, on a sudden, it being now dark, they pelted the ship with stones, and then retreated. Tupia was told by the Indians in the canoe, that the island close to which the Endeavour lay, was called Mowtohera; it was but a few miles from the main-land, of no great extent, but pretty high. They saw a high round mountain, south-west by west of Mowtohera, which the Captain named Mount Edgecombe.

The next morning, November 2, many canoes made their appearance, and one, which proved to be the same that gave the salute the night before, came up, and Tupia again engaged in conversation with the people in her. After behaving very peaceably about an hour, the fit of pelting again seized them, and they gave the ship another volley of stones; but a musquet being fired, they instantly took to their paddles.

In the forenoon, of the same day, the Endeavour sailed between a low flat island and the main: the villages upon the latter were more extensive than any they had yet seen. They were upon the high land next the sea, and were surrounded by a bank with rails on the top of it, and a ditch. There were some inclosures that resembled forts, and the whole had the appearance of fortified places. The Endeavour passed the night under an island about twenty miles from the main, which they named the Mayor. In the morning of the 3d, they gave the name of the Court of Aldermen to a number of small islands that lay contiguous, about twelve miles from the main, between which there are several other small islands mostly barren, but very high. The aspect of the main-land was now much changed, the soil appearing barren, and the country very thinly inhabited. The Chief, who governed the district from Cape Turnagain to this coast, was named Teratu.

On Friday the 3d, three canoes came a-longside with several Indians. These canoes were built very different from the others, being formed of the trunks of single trees, made hollow by burning: they were not carved, or in any shape ornamented. These Indians were of a darker complexion than the others, but made use of the same modes of defiance, and threw several stones and some of their lances into the ship.

The same afternoon the Endeavour sailed towards an inlet they had discovered, and anchored in seven fathom water. She was soon after surrounded by several canoes, and the Indians at first did not shew any signs that they intended committing hostilities. One of the Endeavour’s people shot a bird, which the Indians conveyed on board, without testifying any surprise at the event. For their civility, the Captain gave them a piece of cloth. But this favour had a very opposite influence to what was expected, for when it grew dark, they sung one of their menacing songs, and attempted to carry off the anchor’s buoy. Some musquets were now fired over them, which seemed rather to irritate than terrify them, and upon their going off, they threatened to return the next morning in greater numbers; they came back however the same night about eleven o’clock, in hopes of surprising the ship’s crew; but finding them on their guard, they again retired.

In the morning of the 4th, a great number of canoes, with near two hundred men, armed with spears, lances and stones, made their appearance, seemingly resolved to attack the ship, and desirous of boarding her, but could not determine at what part, changing their stations, and paddling round her. These motions kept the crew upon the watch, in the rain, whilst Tupia, at the request of the Captain, used every dissuasive argument he could suggest to prevent their carrying their apparent designs into execution; but his expostulations did not pacify them till some musquets were fired; they then laid aside their hostile intentions, and began to trade: they sold two of their weapons without fraud, but a third, for which they had received cloth, they would not deliver up, and instead of paying any attention to the demand that was made of it, they only laughed at them, and turned their expostulations into ridicule. As the Captain proposed to stay some days at this place, that he might observe the Transit of Mercury, he judged it expedient to chastise these people for their insolence and knavery; accordingly some small shot were fired upon the principal offender, and a musquet-ball went through his canoe. His companions left him to his fate, without taking the least notice of him, though he was wounded, and continued to trade without any discomposure. They for some time traded very fairly, but returning to their male practices, another canoe was fired upon, and struck: they soon after paddled away, whilst a round shot was fired over them.

Thus we find, that theft and chicane are as prevalent amongst the inhabitants of New Zealand, as those of Otaheite; from whence we might conclude, that in all uncivilized nations, probity is not considered as a virtue, or theft as a vice. Having no punishment for crimes of this kind, it may be urged, that they are not taught to consider them as such; but if nature has implanted in us just ideas of right and wrong, they must operate as forcibly upon the inhabitants under the line, as on those of other climes; and a native of Otaheite must be equally conscious of a breach of natural justice as the most polished European. However, as this is establishing the doctrine of innate ideas, which would lead us into a large field of controversy, we shall leave the reader to his own opinion upon this subject.

In searching for a convenient anchoring-place, the Captain saw a village upon a high point, near the head of the bay, fortified like those villages already mentioned. Having met with a place to his mind near where the Endeavour lay, he returned to the ship, and sailed to that spot, where he cast anchor.

Several of the Indians came off to the ship on the 5th, but behaved much better than they had done the preceding day. They had with them an old man, who had before testified his probity and discretion; and he appeared to be of superior rank to the rest. He came on board with another Indian, when the Captain presented them with some nails, and two pieces of cloth of English manufacture. Tojava (which was the name of the old man) informed Mr. Banks, that the natives had been in great terror of the English; when he was informed, that the Captain and his people had no ill design against the Indians; but, on the contrary, wanted to establish a friendly intercourse, and to traffick with them. Tojava then acquainted the Captain, that they were often visited by freebooters from the north, who stripped them of all they could lay their hands on, and often made captives of their children and wives; and that being ignorant who the English were upon their first arrival, the natives had taken the alarm upon the ship’s appearing off the coast, but were now satisfied of their good intent. He added, that to secure themselves from these plunderers, their houses were built contiguous near the tops of rocks, where they are more able to defend themselves. Probably their poverty and misery may be ascribed to the ravages of this banditti, who often strip them of every necessary of life. Whilst they were fishing for mullets in the bay, the Indians who were upon the banks testified their friendship by every possible means, and gave them an invitation to come on shore.

The assurances of friendship, which they had received from the gentlemen on board, seemed to have a proper influence upon the natives, who were now very tractable and submissive, and behaved with much civility to the people in the long-boat, which was again dispatched into the bay to fish, but with little success; the Indians however brought great quantities of fish, dressed and dried; and though they were very indifferent, they were purchased, that trade might not be discouraged. In a word, the natives now treated the English with great hospitality; a large supply of wood and good water was obtained, and the ship, being very foul, was heeled, and her bottom scrubbed in the bay.

November the 8th the ship was visited by several canoes, in one of which was Tojava, who perceiving two strange canoes paddling from the opposite shore, suddenly turned about, and acquainted the Captain that he was under apprehensions, the people in them were some of the freebooters, but he soon found his mistake, and returned to the ship. The Indians supplied the ship’s crew with as much excellent fish, resembling mackrel, as was sufficient for all their dinners, for which they gave them some pieces of cloth.

A great variety of plants were this day collected by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; they had never observed any of the kind before. These gentlemen remained on shore till near dark, when they observed the manner of the natives disposing of themselves during the night. They lay under some bushes; the men nearest the sea in a semicircular form, and the women and children the most distant from it; their arms were placed against trees very near them, to defend themselves in case of a surprize from the freebooters. They had no king, whose sovereignty they acknowledged, which was a circumstance unparalleled on any other parts of the coast.

Early in the morning of the 9th, several canoes brought a prodigious quantity of mackrel, one sort of which was no way different from the mackrel caught on our coast. These canoes were succeeded by many others, equally well loaded with the same sort of fish; and the cargoes purchased were so great, that when salted, they might be considered as a month’s provision for the whole ship’s company.

This being a very clear day, the astronomer (Mr. Green) and the other gentlemen landed to observe the Transit of Mercury, and whilst the observation was making, a large canoe, with various commodities on board, came alongside the ship and Mr. Gore, the officer who had then the command, being desirous of encouraging them to traffick, produced a piece of Otaheitean cloth, of more value than any they had yet seen, which was immediately seized by one of the Indians, who obstinately refused either to return it, or give any thing in exchange; he paid dearly however for his temerity, being shot dead on the spot.

The death of this young Indian alarmed all the rest; they fled with great precipitancy, and for the present could not be induced to renew their traffick with the English. But when the Indians on shore had heard the particulars related by Tojava, who greatly condemned the conduct of the deceased, they seemed to think that he merited his fate. His name proved to be Otirreeoonooe.

This transaction happened, as has been mentioned, whilst the observation was making of the Transit of Mercury, when the weather was so favourable, that the whole Transit was viewed without a cloud intervening. Mr. Green made the observation of the ingress, whilst Captain Cook was engaged in ascertaining the time, by taking the sun’s altitude. The Transit commenced at 7 hours, 20 min. 58 sec. by Mr. Green’s observation the internal contact was at 12 hours, 8 min. 57 sec. the external at 12 hours, 9 min. 54 sec. the latitude 30 deg. 48 min. 5 sec. In consequence of this observation having been made here, this bay was called Mercury Bay.

On the 10th Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the Captain went in boats to inspect a large river that runs into the bay. They found it broader some miles within than at the mouth, and intersected into a number of streams, by several small islands, which were covered with trees. On the east side of the river the gentlemen shot some shags, which proved very good eating. The shore abounded with fish of various kinds, such as cockles, clams and oysters; and here were also ducks, shags, seapies and curlieus, with other wild fowl in great plenty. At the mouth of the river there was good anchorage in five fathom water. The gentlemen were received with great hospitality by the inhabitants of a little village, on the east side of the river. There are the remains of a fort called Eppah, in a peninsula that projects into the river, and it was well calculated for defending a small number against a greater force. From the remains, it nevertheless seemed to have been taken and partly destroyed.

The Indians sup before sun-set, when they eat fish and birds baked or roasted; they roast them upon a stick, stuck in the ground near the fire, and bake them in the manner the dog was baked, which the gentlemen ate at King George’s Island.

A female mourner was present at one of their suppers; she was seated upon the ground, and wept incessantly, at the same, time repeating some sentences in a doleful manner, but which Tupia could not explain; at the termination of each period she cut herself with a shell upon her breast, her hands or her face; notwithstanding this shocking, bloody spectacle greatly affected the gentlemen present, yet all the Indians who sat by her, except one, were quite unmoved. The gentlemen saw some, who from the depth of their scars must, upon these occasions, have wounded themselves still more violently.

November 11, great plenty of oysters were procured from a bed which had been discovered, and they proved exceedingly good. Next day the ship was visited by two canoes, with unknown Indians; after some invitation they came on board, and they all trafficked without any fraud.

Two fortified villages being descried, the Captain, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went to examine them: the smallest was romantically situated upon a rock, which was arched; this village did not consist of above five or six houses, fenced round. There was but one path, which was very narrow, that conducted to it. The gentlemen were invited by the inhabitants to pay them a visit, but not having time to spare, they took another route, after making presents to the females. A body of men, women and children now approached the gentlemen, who proved to be the inhabitants of another town, which they proposed visiting. They gave many testimonials of their friendly dispositions, among others they uttered the word Heromai, which, according to Tupia’s interpretation, implied Peace, and appeared much satisfied, when informed the gentlemen intended visiting their habitations. Their town was named Wharretouwa; it is seated on a point of land over the sea, on the north side of the bay; it was paled round, and defended by a double ditch. Within the ditch a stage is erected for defending the place in case of an attack; near this stage, which they call Porava, quantities of darts and stones are deposited to be in readiness to repel the assailants. There is another stage to command the path that leads to the town, and there are also some outworks. Upon the whole, the place seemed calculated to hold out a considerable time against an enemy armed with no other weapons than those of the inhabitants. It appeared however deficient in water for a siege. They eat instead of bread fern root, which was herein great plenty, with dried fish.

Very little land is here cultivated, sweet potatoes and yams being the only vegetables they found. There are two rocks near the foot of this fortification, both separated from the main land; they are very small, nevertheless they are not without dwelling-houses and little fortifications. They throw stones in their engagements with their hands, being destitute of a sling, and those and lances are their only missile weapons; they have, besides the Pattoo Pattoo, already described, a staff about five feet in length, and another shorter.

They sailed from this bay, after taking possession of it in the name of the King of Great Britain, on the 15th of November; Tojava, who visited them in his canoe just before their departure, said he should, as soon as the English were gone, prepare to retire to his fort, as the relations of Otirreeoonooe had menaced to take his life, as a forfeit for that of the deceased, Tojava being judged partial in this affair to the English. A number of islands of different sizes appeared towards the north-west, which were named Mercury Islands. Mercury bay lies in latitude 36 deg. 47 min. south; longitude 184 deg. 4 min. west, and has a small entrance at its mouth. On account of the number of oysters found in the river, the Captain gave it the name of Oyster river. Mangrove river (which the Captain so called from the great number of those trees that grew near it) is the most secure place for shipping, being at the head of the bay. The north-west side of this bay and river is much more fertile than the east side. The inhabitants, though numerous, have no plantations; their canoes are very indifferently constructed, and are no way ornamented; they lie under continual apprehensions of Teratu, being considered by him as rebels.

Upon this shore iron sand is in plenty to be found, which proves that there are mines of that metal up the country, it being brought down by a rivulet from thence.

On the 18th, in the morning, the Endeavour steered between the main, and an island which seemed very fertile, and as extensive as Uli Etea. Many canoes filled with Indians came along-side, and the Indians sung their war song, but the Endeavour’s people paying them no attention, they threw a volley of stones, and then paddled away; but they presently returned and renewed their insults. Tupia spoke to them, making use of his old argument, that inevitable destruction would ensue if they persisted; they answered with brandishing their weapons, intimating, at the same time, that if the English dared to come on shore they would destroy them all. Tupia still persisted in expostulating with them, but to no purpose; and they soon gave another volley of stones; but upon a musket being fired at one of their boats, they made a precipitate retreat.

In the evening they cast anchor in 23 fathom, and early the next morning they sailed up an inlet. Soon after two canoes came off, and some of the Indians came on board; they claimed an acquaintance with Tojava, and knew Tupia’s name; and after they had received some presents they retired peaceably.

The Endeavour was now in the bay, called by the natives Ooahaouragee, and Captain Cook, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, &c. went in the boats to the bottom of the bay to examine it, and they did not return till next morning. They had been up a fresh water river, at the bottom of the bay, in three fathoms water, which would make a good harbour. They met with an Indian town, and a hippah, or place of refuge, the inhabitants of which invited them to land, and gave them a friendly reception. At the entrance of a wood they met with a tree ninety-eight feet high from the ground to the first branch, quite strait, and nineteen feet in circumference and they found still larger trees of the same kind as they advanced into the wood. The Captain called this river Thames, being not unlike our river of that name. They also found several young cabbage trees, and a new species of the palm-nut, or Pardanus.

Captain Cook weighed anchor the same afternoon, sailing down the river with the tide, the wind blowing fresh from north-north-west; the next morning the flood obliged him to cast anchor again; and the Captain, with Dr. Solander, went on shore to the west, but made no observations worth relating. The ship, at their departure from it, was surrounded with canoes, which induced Mr. Banks to remain on board, that he might trade with the Indians. The chief object of these people was paper, for which they exchanged their arms and cloaths, and took no unfair advantages. Though the traders were honest in their dealings, there was one amongst them, who took a fancy to a half-minute glass, but was detected in secreting it, and he was punished with the cato’nine tails. The other Indians endeavoured to save him from this punishment; but being opposed, they got their arms from the canoes, and some of the people in them attempted to get on board. Mr. Banks and Tupia now coming upon deck, the Indians applied to Tupia but he having no influence upon Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer, informed them of the nature of the offender’s intended punishment, which pacified them, as they imagined he was going to be put to death. The criminal not only received twelve lashes, but afterwards a drubbing from an old man, who was thought to be his father. The canoes immediately went off, the Indians saying, they should be afraid to return again on board. Tupia, however, had so much influence over them as to bring them back; but they seemed to have lost that confidence, which they had before reposed in the English.

On the 23d the wind being still against them, they were obliged to tide it down the river, anchoring between tides; they passed a point of land, which the Captain called Point Rodney, and which is the north-west extremity of the river. As they could not approach the land, on account of the wind, they had but a distant view of the main for a course of near thirty miles. Captain Cook comprehended, under the name of the River Thames, the whole bay; and the promontory at the north-east extremity, he called Cape Colville, in honour of the peer of that name. This cape is in latitude 36 deg. 26 min. longitude 194 deg. 27 min. it is distinguishable at a considerable distance by a very high rock. The river runs south by east from the south point of this cape; it is, in the narrowest parts, at least three leagues over for near fourteen leagues, when it becomes narrower. It was thought to contain fish in abundance, as there appeared many implements necessary for fishing; the water was in some places twenty-six fathoms deep, and gradually diminished. There are several small islands within cape Colville, which appear to form tolerable harbours. There are also islands towards the western shore. The anchorage is good in all parts of the bay, which is defended from the sea by a number of small islands, which Captain Cook named Barrier Islands.

The circumjacent country, which is pretty extensive, appeared to be but thinly inhabited; the natives are a stout and active people, and are painted red all over: their canoes were ornamented with carving, and were constructed upon a good model.

On the 24th, they still continued steering along the shore, between the islands and the main, and in the evening anchored in an open bay, in about fourteen fathoms water. Here they caught a large number of fish of the scienne, or bream kind; from which the Captain named this Bream Bay, and the extreme points of it Bream Head. There are numbers of rocks off this bay, which were called the Hen and Chickens; it is situated in latitude 35 deg. 46 min. seventeen leagues north-west of cape Colville. There is an extent of land of about thirty miles between Point Rodney and Bream Head; it is woody and low. No inhabitants were visible, but from the fires perceived at night, the gentlemen concluded it was inhabited.

On the 25th, early in the morning, the Endeavour sailed out of the bay, keeping to the northward near the shore. Some islands were soon after discovered, about ten miles to the north-north-east, which they called the Poor Knights; upon these islands there were some houses, and a few towns that appeared fortified, and the land round them seemed cultivated. Towards night several canoes, with a number of Indians, came up to the ship, and some came on board. Two of the Chiefs received presents, and told the gentlemen, that they had had an account of the arrival of the English in those parts. After their departure other Indians came up to trade, and soon began their usual fraudulent practices; the gentlemen had recourse to the old remedy of firing some small shot, and a round shot, which soon put them to flight.

Sunday the 26th, Captain Cook continued his course slowly along the shore to the north. This day two canoes came up, and some of the Indians came on board, when they trafficked very fairly. Two larger canoes soon after followed them, and coming up to the ship, the people in them hailed the others, when they conferred together, and afterwards came along-side of the ship. The last two canoes were finely ornamented with carving, and the people, who appeared to be of higher rank, were armed with various weapons; they held in high estimation their Patoo Patoos, which were made of stone and whalebone, and they had ribs of whale, with ornaments of dog’s hair, which were very curious. These people were of a darker complexion than those to the southward, and their faces were stained blacker, with what they call Amoco; and their thighs were striped with it, very small interstices of the flesh being left visible. Though they all used the black Amoco, they applied it to different parts, and in various forms. Most of them had the figure of volutes on their lips, and one woman in particular was curiously marked upon various parts of her body. These Indians seemed the superiors of the others, they were nevertheless not free from the vice of pilfering, for one of them having agreed to barter a weapon for a piece of cloth, he was no sooner in possession of the cloth, than he paddled away without paying the price of it; but a musquet being fired, he came back and returned the cloth. All the canoes then returned ashore.

The Endeavour passed a remarkable point of land, which the Captain called Cape Bret, in honour of the baronet of that name: this cape is much higher than any of the adjacent land. Within a mile to the north-east by north is a curious rocky island; it is arched, and has a pleasing effect at a distance. The natives call this Cape Motugogogo: it lies in latitude 35 deg. 10 min. 30 sec. south; and longitude 185 deg. 23 min. west. It forms a bay to the west, which contains many small islands, and Captain Cook named the point at the north-west entrance Point Pococke. There are many villages on the main as well as on the islands, which appeared well inhabited, and several canoes, filled with Indians, made to the ship, and after coming along-side to trade, shewed the same itch for cheating as the others. One of the midshipmen was so nettled at being imposed upon, that he had recourse to a whimsical expedient by way of revenge; taking a fishing line, he threw the lead with so much dexterity, that the hook caught the Indian who had imposed upon him by the buttocks, when the line breaking, the hook remained in his posteriors. These Indians were strong and well proportioned; their hair was black, and tied up in a bunch stuck with feathers: the Chiefs among them had garments made of fine cloth, ornamented with dog’s skin; and they were tataowed like those who had last appeared.

On the 27th the Endeavour was among a number of small islands, from which several canoes came off; but the Indians, from their frantic gestures, seemed disordered in their minds; they threw their fish into the ship by handfuls, without demanding any thing by way of barter. Some other canoes also came up, who saluted the ship with stones. One of the Indians, who was particularly active, threw a stick at one of the Endeavour’s men. It was then judged time to bring them to reason, and a musquet, with small shot was fired at him, when he fell down in the canoe. A general terror was now spread amongst them, and they all made a very precipitate retreat. Among the fish obtained from these canoes, were Cavalles in great plenty, and for this reason the Captain called these islands by the same name.

For several days the wind was so very unfavourable, that the vessel rather lost than gained ground; on the 29th, having weathered Cape Bret, they bore away to leeward, and got into a large bay, where they anchored on the south-west side of several islands, and suddenly came into four fathom and a half water. Upon sounding, they found they had got upon a bank, and accordingly weighed and dropped over it, and anchored again in ten fathoms and a half; after which the ship was surrounded by thirty-three large canoes, containing near three hundred Indians all armed. Some of them were admitted on board, and Captain Cook gave a piece of broad cloath to one of the Chiefs, and some small presents to the others. They traded peaceably for some time, being terrified at the fire arms, the effect of which they were not unacquainted with; but whilst the Captain was at dinner, on a signal given by one of their Chiefs, all the Indians quitted the ship, and they attempted to tow away the buoy; a musquet was now fired over them, but it produced no effect; small shot was then fired at them, but it did not reach them. A musquet, loaded with ball, was therefore ordered to be fired, and Otegoowgoow (son of one of the Chiefs) was wounded in the thigh by it, which induced them immediately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete their confusion a round shot was fired, which reached the shore, and as soon as they landed they ran in search of it. If these Indians had been under any kind of military discipline, they might have proved a much more formidable enemy; but acting thus, without any plan or regulation, they only exposed themselves to the annoyance of fire arms, whilst they could not possibly succeed in any of their designs.

The Captain, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander landed upon the island, and the Indians in the canoes soon after came on shore. The gentlemen were now in a small cove, and they were presently surrounded by near four hundred armed Indians; but the Captain not suspecting any hostile design on the part of the natives, remained peaceably disposed. The gentlemen marching towards them, drew a line, intimating that they were not to pass it; they did not infringe upon this boundary for some time, but at length they sung the song of defiance, and began to dance, whilst a party attempted to draw the Endeavour’s boats on shore; these signals for an attack being immediately followed by the Indians breaking in upon the line, the gentlemen judged it time to defend themselves, and accordingly the Captain fired his musquet, loaded with small shot, which was seconded by Mr. Banks discharging his piece, and two of the men followed his example. This threw the Indians into confusion, and they retreated; but were rallied again by one of their Chiefs, who shouted and waved his patoo patoo. The Doctor now pointed his musquet at this hero, and hit him; this stopt his career, and he took to flight with the other Indians. They retired to an eminence in a collective body, and seemed dubious whether they should return to the charge. They were now at too great a distance for ball to reach them; but these operations being observed from the ship, she brought her broad side to bear, and by firing over them soon dispersed them. The Indians had in this skirmish two of their people wounded, but none killed. Peace being thus restored, the gentlemen began to gather celery and other herbs; but suspecting some of the natives were lurking about with evil designs, they repaired to a cave, which was at a small distance; here they found the Chief, who had that day received a present from the Captain; he came forth with his wife and brother, and solicited their clemency. It appeared, that one of the wounded Indians was a brother of this Chief, who was under great anxiety lest the wound should prove mortal; but his grief was in a great degree alleviated, when he was made acquainted with the different effects of small shot and ball; he was at the same time assured, that upon any future hostilities being committed ball would be used. This interview terminated very cordially, after some trifling presents were made to the Chief and his companions.

The prudence of the gentlemen upon this occasion, cannot be much commended. Had these four hundred Indians boldly rushed in upon them at once with their weapons, the musquetry could have done very little execution; but supposing twenty or thirty of the Indians had been wounded, for it does not appear their pieces were loaded with ball, but only small shot, there would have remained a sufficient number to have massacred them, as it appears they do not give any quarter, and none could have been expected upon this occasion. It is true, when the ship brought her broad-side to bear, she might have made great havock amongst the Indians; but this would have been too late to save the party on shore.

Being again in their boats, they rowed to another part of the same island, when landing and gaining an eminence, they had a very agreeable and romantic view of a great number of islands, well inhabited and cultivated. The inhabitants of an adjacent town approached unarmed, and testified great humility and submission. Some of the party on shore, who had been very violent for having the Indians punished for their fraudulent conduct, were now guilty of trespasses equally reprehensible, having forced into some of the plantations, and dug up potatoes. The Captain upon this occasion shewed strict justice in punishing each of the offenders with twelve lashes: one of them being very refractory upon the occasion, and complaining of the hardship, thinking an Englishman had a right to plunder an Indian with impunity, was flogged out of this opinion with six additional lashes. Probably his adding “that in this, he had only followed the example of his superiors,” might have had no little weight in procuring him this last sentence.

It being a dead calm on the 30th, two boats were sent to sound the harbour, and many canoes came up, and traded with great probity: the gentlemen went again on shore, and met with a very civil reception from the natives; and this friendly intercourse continued all the time they remained in the bay, which was several days. Being upon a visit to the old Chief, he shewed them the instruments used in tataowing, which were very like those at Otaheite employed upon the like occasion. They saw the man who had been wounded by the ball, when the attempt was made to carry off the ship’s buoy; and though it had gone through the fleshy part of his arm, it did not seem to give him the least pain or uneasiness.

On Tuesday the 5th, in the morning, they weighed anchor, but were soon becalmed, and a strong current setting towards the shore, they were driven in with such rapidity, that they expected every moment to run upon the breakers, which appeared above water not more than a cable’s length distance; they were so near the land, that Tupia, who was totally ignorant of the danger, held a conversation with the Indians, who were standing on the beach. They were happily relieved, however, from this alarming situation by a fresh breeze, suddenly springing up from the shore.

The bay which they had left was called the Bay of Islands, on account of the numerous islands it contains; they catched but few fish while they lay there, but procured great plenty from the natives, who are extremely expert at fishing, and display great ingenuity in the form of their nets, which are made of a kind of grass; they are two or three hundred fathoms in length, and remarkably strong; and they have them in such plenty, that it is scarce possible to go a hundred yards upon the beach, without meeting with numbers lying in heaps. These people did not appear to be under the government of any particular Chief or Sovereign, and they seemed to live in a perfect state of friendship, notwithstanding their villages were fortified. According to their observations upon the tides, the flood comes from the south, and there is a current from the west.

Dec. 7, several canoes put off and followed the Endeavour, but a breeze arising, Captain Cook did not wait for them: on the 8th they tacked, and stood in for the shore: and on the 9th, they were about seven leagues to the westward of the Cavalles, and soon after came to a deep bay, which the Captain named Doubtless Bay. The wind prevented their putting in here, and being soon after becalmed, they were visited by several canoes from shore, with whom they trafficked. From these Indians they learnt, they were about two days sail from Moore Whennua, where the land changed its shape, and instead of extending to the westward, turned to the south; and that to the north-north-west there was an extensive country, named Ulimaroah, where the inhabitants lived upon hogs, which they called Booah, and was the same name given them by the inhabitants of the islands in the South Seas. They saw upon the coast several plantations, of the Eaowte, or cloth trees, and some of the Koomarra. They beat to windward four days, and made but little way. On the 10th, the land appeared low and barren, but was not destitute of inhabitants; the next morning, they stood in with the land, which forms a peninsula, and which the Captain named Knuckle Point. Another bay, that lies contiguous, Captain Cook called Sandy Bay, in the middle of it is a high mountain, which was named Mount Camel, on account of its resembling that animal. Several canoes put off, but could not reach the ship, which now tacked and stood to the northward, till the afternoon of the 12th, when she stood to the north-east. Towards night it began to rain and blow, and in the morning it was so tempestuous, as to split the main-top-sail, and the fore mizen-top-sails. Early in the morning of the 14th, they saw land to the southward; and on the 15th, they tacked and stood to the westward; next day they discovered land from the mast-head to the south-south-west; and on the 16th came off the northern extremity of New Zealand, which the Captain called North Cape. It lies in latitude 34 deg. 22 min. south, longitude 186 deg. 55 min. west, and forms the north point of Sandy Bay. Their situation varied but little till the 24th, when they discovered land, which they judged to be the islands of the Three Kings, though they did not resemble the description of them in Dalrymple’s account. The chief island is in latitude 34 deg. 12 min. south, longitude 187 deg. 48 min west, between fourteen or fifteen leagues from North Cape. Mr. Banks went out in the small boat, and caught some birds that greatly resembled geese, and they were very good eating. On the 27th, it blew very hard from the east all day, accompanied with heavy showers of rain, and they brought the ship under a reef main-sail. On the 30th they saw land, bearing north-east, which was thought to be Cape Maria Van Diemen, but the sea being very boisterous, they did not venture to approach it, but tacked about and stood to the north-west.

January 1, 1770, they tacked and stood to the eastward; and on the 3d they saw land again; it was high and flat, and tended away to the south-east, beyond the reach of the naked eye. It is remarkable, that the Endeavour was three weeks in making ten leagues to the westward, and that she met with a violent gale of wind in latitude 35 deg. south, at Midsummer. On the morning of the 4th they stood along the shore, the coast appearing sandy and barren, dreary and inhospitable; steering northward on the 6th they saw land again, which they imagined to be Cape Maria: on the 7th, they had light breezes, and were sometimes becalmed, when they saw a sun-fish, short and thick in figure, with two large fins, but scarce any tail, resembling a shark in colour and size. They continued steering east till the 9th, when they perceived land, and were soon after a-breast of a point, which Captain Cook named Woody-head. From the south-west there is a small island, which the Captain called Gannet Island. Another point remarkably high to the east-north-east, the Captain named Albetross Point, on the north side of which a bay is formed that promises good anchorage. At about two leagues distance from Albetross Point to the north-east, they discovered a remarkable high mountain, equal in height to that, of Teneriffe, the summit of which was covered with snow, and it was named Mount Egmont. It is in latitude 39 deg. 16 min. longitude 185 deg. 15 min. west, and the country round it is pleasant, presenting an agreeable verdure, intersected with woods: the coast forms an extensive cape, which the Captain likewise called cape Egmont, in honour of the nobleman of that name. It is about twenty-seven leagues to the south-south-west of Albetross Point, having two small islands to the north, near a very high point of a conic figure. This day some very heavy showers of rain fell, accompanied with thunder and lightening. The Captain proposed careening the ship here, and taking in wood and water; and accordingly, on the 15th, steered for an inlet; when it being almost a calm, the ship was carried by the current very near the shore, but got clear with the assistance of the boats. Whilst this was doing a sea lion made its appearance; it is a very curious creature, and answers the description given of it in Lord Anson’s Voyage. The Captain sent the pinnace to examine a small cove that appeared, but soon after recalled her, on seeing the natives launch and arm their canoes. The Endeavour anchored in a commodious part of the bay, in sailing towards which spot an Indian town was descried, when the inhabitants waved their hands, seemingly to invite the Endeavour’s people to land. In passing the point of the bay, they observed an armed centinel on duty, who was twice relieved. Four canoes came from shore to visit the ship, but none of the Indians would venture on board, except an old man, who seemed of elevated rank: his countrymen took great pains to prevent his coming on board, but they could not divert him from his purpose, and he was received with the utmost civility and hospitality. Tupia and the old man joined noses, according to the custom of the country, and after receiving several presents, he returned to his associates, when they began to dance and laugh, and soon after retired. The Captain and the other gentlemen now went on shore, where they met with plenty of wood and water, and were very successful in fishing, catching some hundred weight in a short time.

On the 16th the Endeavour’s people were engaged in careening her, when three canoes came off with a great number of Indians, and brought several of their women with them. This circumstance was judged a favourable presage of their peaceable disposition, but they soon gave proofs of the contrary, by attempting to stop the long-boat that was sent on shore for water, when Captain Cook had recourse to the old expedient of firing some shot, which intimidated them for the present; but they soon gave fresh proofs of their insidious designs. One of them snatched some paper from the Endeavour’s people who were trading with them, and brandishing his patoo patoo, put himself in a threatening posture; upon which it was judged expedient to fire some small shot at him, which wounded him in the knee; this step put an end to the correspondence with regard to trade; but Tupia still continued conversing with them, and making many inquiries concerning the curiosities of New Zealand; he also asked them, if they had ever before seen a ship of the magnitude of the Endeavour; to which they replied, they had never seen such a vessel, nor ever heard that one had been upon the coast, though Tasman certainly touched here, which was only fifteen miles south of Murderer’s bay. There is great plenty of fish in all the coves of this bay; among others here are cuttle fish, large breams, small grey breams, small and large baracootas, flying gurnards, horse mackrel, dog fish, soles, dabs, mullets, drums, scorpenas, or rock fish, cole fish, shags, chimeras, &c. The inhabitants catch their fish as follows; their net is cylindrical, extended by several hoops at the bottom, and contracted at the top; the fish going in to feed upon what is put in the net, are caught in great abundance; there are also birds of various kinds, and in great numbers, particularly parrots, wood pigeons, water hens, hawks, and many different singing birds. An herb, a species of Philadelphus, was used here instead of tea; and a plant, called Teegoomme, resembling rug cloaks, served the natives for garments. The environs of the cove where the Endeavour lay is covered entirely with wood, and the supple jacks are so numerous, that it is with difficulty passengers can pursue their way; here is a numerous sand-fly that is very disagreeable. The tops of many of the hills are covered with fern. The air of the country is very moist, and has some qualities that promote putrefaction, as birds that had been shot but a few hours were found with maggots in them. The women who accompanied the men in the canoes wore a head-dress, which the gentlemen had no where met with before. It was composed of black feathers, tied in a bunch on the top of the head, which greatly increased its height. The manner of their disposing of their dead is very different to what is practised in the South-sea islands, they tie a large stone to the body, and throw it into the sea: the gentlemen saw the body of a woman which had been disposed of this way, but which by some accident had disengaged itself from the stone, floating upon the water. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and the Doctor visited another cove, about two miles from the ship. There was a family of Indians who were greatly alarmed at the approach of the gentlemen, all running away except one; but upon Tupia’s conversing with him the others returned. They found, by the provisions of this family, that they were cannibals, here being several human bones that had been lately dressed and picked; and it appeared, that a short time before, six of their enemies having fallen into their hands, they had killed four and eaten them, and that the other two were drowned in endeavouring to make their escape. They made no secret of this abominable custom, but answered Tupia, who was desired to ascertain the fact, with great composure, that his conjectures were just, that they were the bones of a man, and testified by signs, that they thought human flesh delicious food. Upon being asked, why they had not eaten the body of the woman that had been seen floating upon the water? They replied, she had died of a disorder, and that moreover she was related to them, and they never ate any but their enemies. Upon Mr. Banks’s still testifying some doubts concerning the fact, one of the Indians drew the bone of a man’s arm through his mouth, and this gentleman had the curiosity to bring it away with him. There was a woman in this family whose arms and legs were cut in a shocking manner, and it appeared she had thus wounded herself, because her husband had lately been killed and eaten by the enemy.

Some of the Indians brought four skulls one day to sell, which they rated at a very high price. The brains had been taken out, and probably eaten, but the scalp and hair remained. They seemed to have been dried by fire, in order to preserve them from putrefaction. The gentlemen likewise saw the bail of a canoe, which was made of a human skull. In a word, their ideas were so horrid and brutal, that they seemed to pride themselves upon their cruelty and barbarity, and took a peculiar pleasure in shewing the manner in which they killed their enemies, it being considered as very meritorious to be expert at this destruction. The method used was to knock them down with their patoo patoos, and then rip up their bellies.

An amazing number of birds usually began their melody about two o’clock in the morning, and serenaded the gentlemen till the time of their rising. This harmony was very agreeable, as the ship lay at a convenient distance from the shore, to hear it. These feathered choiristers, like the English nightingales, never sing in the day time.

On the 17th, the ship was visited by a canoe from the hippah, or village; it contained, among others, the aged Indian, of superior distinction, who had first visited the English upon their arrival. In a conference which Tupia had with him, he testified his apprehensions, that their enemies would very soon visit them, and repay the compliment, for killing and eating the four men.

On the 18th they received no visit from the Indians, but going out in the pinnace to inspect the bay, they saw a single man in a canoe, fishing in the manner already described. It was remarkable, that this man did not pay the least attention to the people in the pinnace, but continued to pursue his employment even when they came along-side of him, without once looking at them. Some of the Endeavour’s people being on shore found three human hip bones, close to an oven: these were brought on board, as well as the hair of a man’s head, which was found in a tree. The next day a forge was set up to repair the iron work, and some Indians visited the ship with plenty of fish, which they bartered very fairly for nails.

On the 20th, Mr. Banks purchased of the old Indian a man’s head, which he seemed very unwilling to part with; the skull had been fractured by a blow, and the brains were extracted, and like the others it was preserved from putrefaction. From the care with which they kept these skulls, and the reluctance with which they bartered any, it was imagined they were considered as trophies of war, and testimonials of their valour. In this day’s excursion they did not meet with a single native; the ground on every side was quite uncultivated; but they discovered a very good harbour. The succeeding day the ship’s company were allowed to go on shore for their amusement, and the gentlemen employed themselves in fishing, in which they were very successful. Some of the company in their excursion met with fortifications that had not the advantage of an elevated situation, but were surrounded by two or three wide ditches, with a draw-bridge, which, tho’ simple in its structure, is capable of answering every purpose against the arms of the natives. Within these ditches is a fence, made with stakes, fixed in the earth. A decisive conquest or victory over the besieged occasions an entire depopulation of that district, as the vanquished, not only those who are killed, but the prisoners likewise are devoured by the victors. From what has been related by such unquestionable authority, there can remain no doubt with the unprejudiced reader, that the inhabitants of this part of the globe are cannibals. There are, indeed, some closet travellers, who treat every thing as visionary, that they have not been eye-witnesses of, and therefore disbelieve all they read, related by real travellers, that does not square with their own notions and ideas; but as it may be impossible to convince these sceptical readers, we shall leave them to amuse themselves with their doubts and objections.

The 22d was employed by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in collecting of plants, whilst Captain Cook made some observations on the main land on the south-east side of the inlet, which consisted of a chain of high hills, and formed part of the south-west side of the streight; the opposite side extended far to the east. He also discovered a village, and many houses that had been deserted, and another village that appeared to be inhabited. There were many small islands round the coast that seemed entirely barren, and what few inhabitants were upon them then lived principally upon fish. On the 24th they visited a hippah, which was situated on a very high rock, hollow underneath, forming a fine natural arch, one side of which joined to the land, and the other rose out of the sea. The inhabitants received the gentlemen with great civility, and very readily shewed them every thing that was curious. This hippah was partly surrounded with a pallisade, and it had a fighting stage like that already described. Here they met with a cross resembling a crucifix, which was ornamented with feathers, and which was erected as a monument for a deceased person; but they could not learn how his body was disposed of. From a conversation that Tupia had with these people, a discovery was made, that an officer being in a boat near this village, and some canoes coming off made him imagine they had hostile designs, and he fired upon them with ball, which made them retire with much precipitation, but they could not effect their retreat before one of them was wounded. What made this rash action the more to be lamented was, that the Indians afterwards gave every possible assurance that their intentions, upon this occasion, were entirely friendly.

On the 25th the Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went on shore to shoot, when they met with a numerous family, who were among the creeks catching fish: they behaved very civilly, and received some trifling presents from the gentlemen. The next day they went to take a view of the streight, that passes between the eastern and western seas: they accordingly attained the summit of a hill, but it being cloudy weather, they could not see at any considerable distance. Here, however, they erected a pile, leaving in it musket balls, small shot, beads, &c. as a testimonial of this place having been visited by Europeans. Upon their return they met with another Indian family, who behaved to them very respectfully, and assisted in procuring them water. They also visited another hippah upon a rock that was almost inaccessible; it consisted of about ninety houses, and had a fighting stage. The gentlemen made the inhabitants some small presents, and they in return furnished them with dried fish.

The ship’s company were, on the 27th and 28th, engaged in making necessary repairs, and getting her ready for sea. The next day they were visited by Topoa, their old friend, and some other Indians. They said, that the man who had received a wound from the officer, near the hippah, was dead; but this assertion proved afterwards groundless. The Doctor and Mr. Banks often went on shore whilst the ship was preparing for sea, and made several observations upon the coast to the north-west: they perceived an island, at about ten leagues distance, between which and the main there were several smaller islands. The Captain also went on shore, and erected another pyramid of stones, in which he put some bullets, beads, &c. as before, with the addition of a piece of silver coin, and placed part of an old pendant on the top, to distinguish it. Some of the people who had been sent out to gather celery, met with several of the natives, among whom were some women, whose husbands had lately fallen into the hands of the enemy, and they were cutting many parts of their body in the most shocking manner with sharp stones, in testimony of their excessive grief. What made this ceremony appear ridiculous as well as shocking, was, that the male Indians, who were with them, paid not the least attention to it, but with the greatest unconcern imaginable, employed themselves in repairing some empty huts upon the spot.

On Tuesday the 30th, two posts were erected, inscribed with the ship’s name, &c. as usual; one was placed at the watering-place, with the Union flag upon it, and the other in the same manner, on the island of Motuara; and the inhabitants being informed, that these posts were meant as memorials of the Endeavour having touched at this place, promised never to destroy them. The Captain then named this inlet Queen Charlotte’s Sound; and took possession of it in the name, and for the use of his Majesty, and a bottle of wine was drank to the Queen’s health.

The Captain made the old man some presents; among others there were a silver three-pence and some spike nails, with the broad arrow upon them. Topoa being questioned concerning a passage into the eastern sea, answered, that there certainly was such a passage; and he also informed the Captain, that the land to the south-west of the streight, where he then was, consisted of two islands, named Tovy Poennammoo, and that it would take about two days to sail round them; he added, that there was a third island to the east, called Eaheinomauwe, which was of considerable extent; and that the land contiguous to this inlet was called Tiera Witte.

Towards night, on the 31st, a brisk gale arose, attended with heavy showers, and the next morning the weather became so very tempestuous, that the Endeavour had her hawser broke, and several casks of water that had been left on shore were washed away with the rain.

The 2d, 3d and 4th of February, were chiefly spent in preparing for their departure, and purchasing fish of the natives, who confirmed the accounts that Topoa had given, respecting an eastern passage and the adjacent islands. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were in the mean while chiefly engaged in collecting seeds and shells of different kinds. They got under sail the 5th, but the wind not continuing, they came again to an anchor. Topoa visited the gentlemen again to bid them farewel; and being questioned, whether he had ever heard that such a vessel as the Endeavour had touched there, he answered in the negative; but added, there was a tradition of a small vessel coming from a place called Ulimaroa (a distant country to the north) that there were only four men in her, and that they were all put to death.

Mr. Banks and the Doctor went again on shore, in search of natural curiosities, when they met with a very amiable Indian family, among whom was a widow, and a pretty youth about ten years of age. She had just lost her husband, and was performing the ceremony of the country upon the occasion. They behaved with the utmost hospitality and courtesy, and endeavoured to prevail with the gentlemen to stay all night, but they expecting the ship to sail, could not accept of the invitation. This family seemed the most enlightened and intelligent set of Indians the gentlemen had as yet met with, which made them regret they had not fallen into their company before, as they would probably have derived much information from them.

On the 6th of February, in the morning, the Endeavour sailed out of the bay, which the ship’s company, from an abhorrence of the brutal custom that prevails here of eating men, called Cannibal Bay. They bent their course to an opening on the east; in the evening, being in the mouth of the streights, they were becalmed in latitude 41 deg. south, longitude 184 deg. 45 min. west. The two points which form this entrance, were named cape Koomaroo, and point Jackson. The natives call the land about it Totarranue; and the harbour, which the Captain named Ship Cove, is very safe and commodious. A ship may enter it either between Motuara and the island of Hamote, or between the western shore and Motuara. Care, however, must be taken to attend to the tides; when there is little wind they flow about nine or ten o’clock at the full and change of the moon, and rise and fall about seven feet and a half, passing through the streight from the south-east.

The natives about this sound are not above four hundred in number; they are scattered along the coast, and live upon fern root and fish; the latter of which was the only commodity they traded in. They were not entirely ignorant of the use of iron, bartering their fish for nails, and often giving them the preference to any other trifles that were offered them; they soon rejected paper when they found it was not water proof; nor was the cloth of Otaheite held in much estimation by them; but the cloths of English manufacture they highly valued. The timber here is very good, and fit for almost all purposes, except masts; besides fish, which is in great plenty, here are shags, and some other kinds of wildfowl, in abundance.

The Endeavour having left the sound, steered eastward, and about six o’clock in the evening they were greatly alarmed at their being carried, by the rapidity of the current, very close to one of the two islands which lie off Cape Koamaroo, at the entrance of the sounds. The ship was in such imminent danger, that they expected every minute she would be dashed to pieces; but letting go an anchor, and veering one hundred and sixty fathoms of cable, she was brought up, when they were not above two cables length from the rocks: in this situation they were obliged to wait for the ebb of the tide, which was not till after midnight; at three o’clock in the morning they weighed anchor, and a fine breeze springing up soon after, they were carried through the streight with great velocity. At the entrance of the streight, on the north-side, there is a small island, which was named Entry Island. The narrowest part of this streight, which was called Cooke’s Streight, is between Cape Tierawitte and Cape Koamaroo; it is about thirteen miles long and fourteen broad; the safest passage is on the north-east shore, the other being rocky and dangerous. The two eastern points of the streight Captain Cook named Cape Palliser and Cape Campbell; the first is in latitude 41 deg. 44 min. south; longitude 183 deg. 45 min. west; and the latter in latitude 41 deg. 34 min. south-east, and longitude 183 deg. 58 min. west. The Endeavour was now about three leagues from land, facing a deep bay, which was called Cloudy Bay. Some of the gentlemen on board expressing a doubt that Eahienomauwe was not an island, the Endeavour steered south-east, in order to ascertain whether it was or not; upon the wind’s shifting, she stood eastward, and steered all night north-east by east. They were off Cape Palliser next morning (the 8th) when they discovered that the land reached away to the north-east towards Cape Turnagain. Three canoes came off in the afternoon, with several people in them; they made a good appearance, and their canoes were ornamented like those of the Indians of the northern coast. They came on board without the least hesitation, and behaved very civilly; a mutual exchange of presents took place, which was the first instance they met with of such courtesy among any of the Indians. By their asking for Whow, which signified nails, it was imagined they had heard of the Endeavour’s people from the inhabitants of some other place where she had touched. They resembled the natives of Tolaga Bay in their dress. One old man was tataowed in a very remarkable manner; he was likewise marked with a streak of red paint across the nose, and over both cheeks; his hair was quite white as well as his beard. His garment was made of flax, with a wrought border, under which was a kind of petticoat, made of a cloth called Aooree Waow; his ears were decorated with teeth and pieces of green stone. His voice was soft and low, and he appeared, upon the whole, to be a person of distinguished rank. These Indians retired greatly satisfied with the presents they had received; and the Endeavour, after parting from them, steered coastwise, till the 9th in the morning, which being a clear day, it was easily determined that Eahienomauwe was certainly an island.

On the 14th of February about sixty Indians, in four double canoes, came within a stone’s cast of the ship, which they beheld with surprise. Tupia endeavoured to persuade them to approach nearer, which they refused, and made towards the shore, but did not reach it till after it was dark. From the behaviour of these people, the place from whence they came was called the Island of Lookers-on. On the 17th of this month they saw an island, five leagues from the coast of Tovy Poenammoo, which was called after the name of Mr. Banks. This island appeared to be inhabited, as they saw a few Indians on it, and in one place beheld the smoke of a fire. As no farther signs of land appeared to the southward, they steered to the west on Sunday the 18th, and made various way till the 23d, when it fell calm. Mr. Banks took this opportunity to go a shooting in his boat; when he shot some Port Egmont hens, like those found on the island of Faro, and were the first they had seen on this coast. On Sunday the 25th they saw a point of land, in 45 deg. 35 min. south latitude, which Captain Cook named Cape Saunders, in honour of the Admiral of that name. They kept at a small distance from the shore, which is interspersed with hills that are green, and abound in trees; but they did not see a single inhabitant. They had various winds and seas till the 4th of March, when they saw several whales and seals.⁠—On the 9th they saw a ledge of rocks, and soon afterwards another ledge, three leagues from the shore, which they passed to the north during the night, and discovered the others under their bow at day-break. Thus they had a narrow escape from destruction; and these ledges of rocks were denominated the Traps, from their being adapted to entrap the unwary. The southermost point of this land they called South Cape, and indeed it proved to be the southern extremity of the whole country.